Replacing a 2 stroke outboard head gasket
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- This video shows replacing the head gasket on a small two stroke outboard motor.
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Once again, a brilliant video, you’re so easy to watch, down to earth, and extremely informative
I recently purchased a seized 55hp Sea King/Chrysler outboard for cheap and while I am mechanically inclined, I had never worked on a boat engine before. I started watching your videos last week and while I have done most things right so far, I have also learned a lot that will help me with the rest of the repair process. Hopefully pulling the head won't be necessary but if so, this great information will help!
Hey Matt, glad to hear your restoration is progressing nicely. Good luck with the rest of it!
straight up your comment about rachetting spanners and about oiling the head bolts for proper torque are absolute key! Thanks again!
Thanks James!
Awesome as always. When I couldn't reach the lowest two bolts on the head cover to remove it, (they were really stiff & started to burr over with spanner use) I actually drilled two 22mm holes in the outer casing to provide access to them. It seems a bit radical, but I got 2 grommets to fill the holes for water-tightness, so it should be ok. I then could use a socket to remove them (one broke close to the head, which was a whole other adventure!). However, I now have much more chance of tightening all the bolts accurately with a torque wrench...
I think that is a good way to go, nothing wrong with drilling to give access.
Cheers 🍻 and ThankYou very much for the details that oftentimes these ‘do it yourself’ videos do not include, well done!!!. MoN this Rocks!! My 07’ 25mlh needs that completed soon at 91/90psi
Glad to help!
Great video Stu. I'm always nervous when removing those head bolts and still nervous when torquing them down. I've broken them in both instances. When it's all back together with no broken fasteners I usually celebrate with a much needed beer!
Hey Jack, interesting that one broke putting it in. I wonder if the thread needed cleaning first or whether it was a faulty bolt.
Yeah, always use new head bolts. Once installed (torqued to specs), they should never be used again. (they stretch after a time of running. it's only a few thousands, but that's all it takes)
Everytime I've seen a head bolt snap going in, it was with a used one... I've never seen a new one break on install, but maybe I've just been lucky for 40 years. lol
Worse nightmare is removing head or even exhaust bolts from engines that lives moored in salt water or the ones that's been used in salt water and never flushed with fresh water soon after returning from boating. Salt will seize anything badly. It's a good thing to slight oil cleaned or new bolts, torque them to specs, should come out without any issues if a latter removal is required...
I just found your channel and I love it, I use to work at a Yamaha dealership but I wasn't a mechanic but I wanna be one day I love working on boats
You should go for it Tony, life's too short not to do the things you love. :)
You make it look so easy...Great video. Hope this will be an easy fix. Stay dry. Thanks for posting.
good trick with the hand torque method is to use a scale on the end and read where it clicks, and do the same for the hard to reach one (same length wrench of course). On some outboards dropping the lower cowling gives better access - thanks for the vid!
Thanks Stu! Just started my yamaha 15hp 2 stroke after replacing the head gasket. I'm alone, on anchor in Panama and you were my only friend for the project. Obviously it went well. Living on a sailboat in remote places, I must learn new skills every time something breaks. Thanks to people like you, it's become quite easy. Liked and subscribed!
another great video!! :D i just changed the diaphrame on my 40 autolube from 93
Thanks Kristian, good to hear you got your autolube fixed up. :)
Great video after wire wheel. I use a pice of 1/2 inch glass with a sheet of sand paper to make it strait. Figure 8 motion. Have a good one
Yep, that's a great way to ensure the head is still flat.
Hi Stu, You need to do a video on changing reeds on a 2 stroke. I'm sure there is a bunch of folks who don't know what these are
That will be the next job on this Yamaha that is running lean, video up on the weekend!
Awesome video,Keep it up!
Thanks mate!
Master of masters.. I love being ur student
These are easily the most helpful marine vids on TH-cam. Thanks for making them. :)
You're welcome Conner, glad you like them. :)
@@DangarMarine your thoughts on prudence of gasket sealant?...
I lost it at "couldn't find a longer straight edge, so I guess we'll have to use this one" (holding a yard long ruler) 😂 Gotta love the dry-pan aussie humour! Great videos, keep it up!
Thanks mate. :)
Sanding the block with the pistons in is a bad idea, right? I was thinking about doing it with the block still being on the engine in vertical so if anything falls off does it does not get on top of the pistons or deeper into the cylinder.
Great job. Well done
Thank you! Cheers!
This is a really good video, thx
Nice video man!
Thank you! :)
Wow you make it look easy , i have an 1985 johno 70hp the water jacket was rusted on lol
Yes, sometimes it gets much harder because of bad corrosion.
On the 2 lower head bolts. You can use a torque wrench with a dog bone wrench at a 90 degree angle and get accurate torque.
one way ratchet situation! LOVE IT .
i have been there it is hilarious
It's funnier once you get your spanner back!
Hi. Great video! As far as I know, there are different tork ratings for dry and for oiled assembly. But I could be wrong.
Thanks mate, some manuals do state specific torque specs for lubricated.
Kiwi tip: if you wind your ratchet spanner out too far...push it in and use a regular set spanner to wind the bolt back in! lol
There are many situations this does not work, simply because the bolt has a flange behind the hex. Your only options then are to cut off the bolt to get your wrench back, or cut the wrench apart to free the bolt. Cutting the bolt is usually the cheaper option, but not always!
Thanks Stu for all these videos. Working on an old 2 stroke at the moment and watching your posts is great.
You're welcome John, good luck with your outboard. :)
Great and informative are the old 65hp 3cld Mercurys easier to replace the Cooling Head without taking Cylinder head off and having to reseal and replace the cylinder head Gasket.
I have a 1977 Evinrude 25HP and the compression readings I got were 50PSI on the top cylinder and 70PSI on the bottom cylinder..... do you think a leaking head gasket could cause that much of a compression drop or is my problem likely worn piston rings or something "catestrophic" as you put it in the video. If the piston rings are worn I am wondering how do I really tell or if you have a video to diagnose low compression.
Thank you for the videos. Have been watching a lot of them lately while trying to figure out how to get this outboard running. Thank you.
A quick shot of oil in the plug hole and re-do the compression test. A marked rise in figures usually indicate worn rings.
Not a fail safe method, but a pretty good indicator in general.
Great video, love this channel !!
Thanks Anders! :)
Great video. Very helpful. I learned something today.
Glad it was helpful!
good video!
Thanks you!
Marine engine don't ship to Sweden yet but when they do I'm gonna order!
They don't ship to Canada either! ^$%*@!!
I am certainly not questioning what you do because as I have said before, you are the man, with the best marine repair videos on TH-cam. With that said I was just wondering if you were running that motor without water or am I missing something? Also, I have an 1999 Evinrude 115 hp 2 stroke and I am getting the following compression readings #1- 85lbs, #3-100lbs, #2-15 lbs and #4- 90 lbs. All plugs are showing spark but the #2 plug does not have the black carbon soot around the electrode like the others. Hard starting and running for a very short time and then dies. Would a head gasket problem around #2 cylinder cause this problem? Hope this is a head gasket problem and not rings. Any advice for this DIY'er who is retired and cannot afford to pay someone $100 bucks an hour? As always thanks for what you do.
Hi mate. I may well have forgotten to turn the water on, filming always distracts me from the job. Could be head gasket or could be rings, you won't really know until you get it apart unfortunately.
@@DangarMarine Greetings sir! I checked the compression after putting in 1 tablespoon of 2cycle oil and the compression went up to 55 lbs in the #2 cylinder. I'm starting to think it is the rings (oh boy!). Is there a way to check if it is the head gasket before getting into a ring job? Thanks for responding and for all you do.
Are you supposed to put sealant on the cylinder head gasket and the water jacket ?
Thank you
Interesting video!
Would it be a good idea to pack those cylinders with some shop rags to prevent debris from entering while cleaning block?
It certainly wouldn't hurt. I don't worry so much about this crud as I would about metal filings from grinding for example, but its not a bad idea to stuff some rag in there before you start.
17:15 Nice calendar 😅
Hey buddy I just test drove a motor that I traded for some work. 60 evinrude, It's has compression of 90psi,89psi,29psi on bottom cylinder so I've started taking the head of and unfortunately 5 bolts snapped. I was gently as I could pulling them out. Well just the start of a big project. I hope you don't mind me asking questions In future. Anyway beer getting warm trying to get this head off now
By the way trying to get me a shirt funds are tight save a spot on top right of board for me
Hey Bryan, it's pretty common for bolts to snap on old outboards like that, but as you say, it is a big project and one that you will enjoy with the right approach. I'll save a spot for a photo of you with your outboard. :)
Is that a haines signature 1750R in the background mate
Hi Stu, been reaching these head water passage videos again. I'm diving into this for the first time on a 3hp Evinrude 2 stroke. You mentioned the step on having the carb shutters wide open to preform a compression test. I think the reason for this is to rule out defective reed valves. It may affect the readings. I'm new at this internal stuff but thought I would point out the reeds may affect compression?
Hey Stu,
I am rebuilding an old 15 hp Yamaha, I've replaced cylinder bores, pistons, piston rings and all bearings to the power head.
I can't find information on how to "break in" a "new" outboard (two stroke), maybe you could do a video about that. Or maybe someone who knows will reply to this comment. Thank you.
Cheers
so just for the first 3 gallons use a 25:1 mix (which is simply a pint to 3 gallons). no stabilizer just gas and oil. make sure the throttle is down to a crawl when you first fire it up and just let it idle for the first 10 minutes. don't touch it! let the rings wear in as best they can. then take it out on the water. if you boat is light, smoothly but quickly give it full throttle to plane off, then back off to 1/2 throttle. if the boat is heavy, don't go above 1/2 throttle for the first hour and vary the speed every 5 minutes or so very slightly. if you are out of gas by now, refill with 50:1 for the rest of break in.the second hour you can give it 3/4 throttle every now and again, but continue to vary the speed. from hours 3-10 give it full power every few minutes, but only for 30 seconds or so. BE GENTILE the first 10 hrs. after break in is done, check the plugs and lower unit oil for metal and / or water intrusion. you can now use 100:1 fuel ratio, but be sure to use marine stabilizer each tank for the life of the motor to prevent internal corrosion. its especially important with 100:1 mix as thats not enough oil to protect the crank from corrosion when not in use.
Hey mate love the vids have learnt so much just a question is the 14nm and 27nm good to use for a parsun 15hp?
Sorry first time changing a head gasket never used a torque wrench before 😅
Thanks in advance 🤙
Thanks for the vídeo 👍👌
I'm doing the same with my Mariner 40 6e9, but i need to no, how many torque (nm) is for the head bolts!
Can you help me??
Hug from Portugal
hey I have a Yamaha 2 stroke 9.9 (2002) and have a issue removing the bottom left screw (out of all 11 only this one is seized) any tips to help remove it?
What if you have a spark plug that fires to hot and fouls out with aluminum melted on the plug
Thanks for these fantastic videos. I watch them for hours. Please produce a video or link to how I can reseat the heads on my year 2000 Johnson 115 2-stroke motor. It is leaking slightly at the top inside of the starboard head. It uses sealant rather than a gasket and I need to know the best sealant to use, exactly where and how much to put on. Thanks again.
I don’t own a Johnson 115.
Could these symptoms be caused by bad reed valves?
Tip on removing corroded head bolts: Just after you break them loose - work them back and forth a bit to break up the corrosion. 1/4 turn back and forth 5-6 times will break most of the corrosion on the threads into a fine dust that is much less likely to bind the bolt, and cause it to snap. Penetrating oil after you break up the corrosion helps if the oil will flow into the threads.
good advice but when they wanna go they SNAP
@@jazldazl9193 If it looks extra dicey, then you can always heat the crap out of it before you get started. This also helps to break up any rust or other corrosion, and tends to loosen things up quite a bit especially with dissimilar metals that expand at different rates.
One other thing to be aware of when dealing with aluminum. Check your bolt hole carefully after you remove the bolt... frozen bolts tend to take a good portion of any aluminum threads out with them. Certain Ford engines have this problem with a specific spark plug that no one ever wants to change, and then they start blowing out spark plugs. It's best to find this out and Helicoil it before you are redoing a head gasket job because the bolts keep coming loose.
Thank you, I am taking a 25 hp Nissan apart due to top head gasket failure, leading to top over heating, loss compression, 85 top and 125 bottom. Top cylinder wall scratched lightly. I wish I could bring both to 120 to 125.
You might find that with a light hone and new rings the compression comes back up. I would also get the head machined before re-installing with a new head gasket.
Thank you so much for the great suggest, yes , l ordered new rings, head gasket, mid sect. gasket and new impeller. All the bearings are still tight and no discolor or burn marks.
Cooling water at the exhaust and the telltale but none at the thermostat. Engine is overheating. Could that be caused by a bad head gasket?
Possibly, could be combustion gases displacing the water or a blockage.
Question I have a 2000 8HP Johnson....It only runs now if I take the cowl off...Someone says it needs an exhaust manifold gasket...Do you think it does and where is that gasket at? ThX CHuck
Thanks, I swear Dangar Marine's videos are keeping my 1983 Mariner 25M running!
Changed the thermostat and cleaned out the water pump area. Was overheating constant. Now she runs like a dream. Yamaha 80hp 2 stroke on a Shetland black hawk.
Your channels amazing mate.
Nice work mate, glad to hear you got it running nicely again. :)
Dangar Marine well thanks to your videos we where able to do it in the morning and take her out the rest of the day. (Loch Lomond Scotland) the overheating was caused by muscles growing in the thermostat from previous owner never flushing her out.
Interesting tip about putting oil on the bolts so they don't bind and give a false reading on the torque wrench, I'm still working on the 50HP Mercury but the delay is that I'm also working on the fiberglass repairs to the boat it will be going on, finally got the stingers and transom dry mounted and there a perfect fit and still waiting on the flywheel puller to arrive so I can properly repair the wires coming from the stator, which at that point I will mesure properly before re-installing it
Hey Adrien, sounds like your project is progressing nicely. I'd like to do some more vids on repairing fibreglass hulls.
Thank you vary much you are getting vary popular in the states especially in Florida and the coastal s.
You're welcome Gerald. That sounds like a really good reason to come to the US for a meet up. ;)
Nice vid Stu, just got my head gaskets in the mail from MarineEngine to do my old 100hp Evinrude, It's amazing how often you've upload videos of the exact thing that planned to do my outboard its a big help thanks
I'll make sure I never upload a video on how to deal with a fractured crank case then just to keep you safe. ;)
you lubricated the threads.... was the specified torque in the book dry or lubricated? If you lubricated threads and torqued per a dry specification it is likely overtorqued.
how would that make any difference? the dry bolts if they are new will screw in with your fingers. here he has corrosion. lubricating them brings them back into spec.
Hi, do you have a video of dismantling the full drive Yamaha 9.9? Thank you
Its a crap shoot. The bottom right stripped on my 64 Evinrude 28hp. Couldnt have been one easy to get at. Murphys law
I have a 1996 30hp 2 stroke. I recently replaced coils, starter, solenoid, plugs, rectifier, and impeller. Now I have a green grease leaking from the top of the motor down the shaft on the right side. What could be causing this? I have a picture but cannot upload here.
Dude - I LOVE your video tutorials, and I've learned SO much!
THANK YOU!!!
However - you should NEVER - never EVER, re-use Head Bolts... ALWAYS use NEW ones - the old ones have been stretched and are WEAKENED ... they *WILL* BREAK (guaranteed!) if ever needing removed in the future.
(ask me how MANY times I've learned that particular lesson. lol)
Best wishes from Florida!
Not all head bolts are stretched.
@@00met
As inexpensive as they are - and as expensive as head gaskets are... why risk it?
They DO stretch when reused.
(some more so than others, but again - it's just not worth blowing a head gasket, or even worse, breaking one off later - been there, done that too. NOT fun!)
@@jkg6211 No disrespect, I understand that some bolts are torqued down with the intention of stretching, according to Yamaha, these engines do not fall into that category. I do understand the cost could be minimal, but I am doing two motors which would be in the area of 72 bolts.
Have 2 stroke Force 50hp, but there is no gasket for the cover. Should the Hylomar just be sprayed on the cover?
So dang good. Nicely structured and great clear explanations. Thank you
Hi I am thinking to clean my pistons from carbon on my outboard? My question is do I have to put nex gasket after I done or can I use the same one after clean it? Do you also recommend this I mean should i give a good clean up to pistons or leave it like that? Thanks
Always use a new head gasket after removing the head.
Hey Stu.
Can I use that Hylomar on a Tohatsu powerhead to engine base gasket or should I use something else?
Sure, it would be fine for that.
@5:50 You removed the coils and put back the bolts into their threaded hole. You are a great professional.
Looking for a 60 horse Evinrude how to replace a head gasket
Still think you need a Dangar Marine stubbie holder ;-)
Me too!
me too!
You're not fussy with your alcohol either. Great Northern, coopers and even a Johnny. 😂
Prying usually works, I find tapping around the edges with a brass hammer loosens it up.
Yes, a soft hammer can help... also lossening the hedbolts then cranking the engine... letting the combustion do it for you.
Looks like you need to change the battery in the clock! :D
th-cam.com/video/p9zM4ancTWg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the Video, I'm working on changing the cylinder head and head gasket on my 90hp yamaha 2 stroke and ive been having some trouble removing the old gasket material. Ive been using plastic scrapers and a rubber wheel for removing decals off of vehicles that attaches to my drill. I still have some material left and I saw that you used a brass wire wheel for your process so i purchased one and tested on the old cylinder head but it seems to be sratching the surface so i was hoping you could suggest exactly what you used to accomplish this. Thanks in Advance
Wes
Stu - as always, thanks for keeping these old videos around. Found out this last week my 1973 Johnson 50hp is either dealing with a head gasket problem or a water jacket issue. If it's been sitting for several days, it starts and runs without issue. But if it's been run hard and warmed up, it doesn't want to restart. I took it to the shop and they cleaned and tuned the carbs but still couldn't get it to idle. After it had been running for a while, they pulled the plugs and saw that they had water on them. So there's either a leaky gasket or crack somewhere. As AvE would say, it's already fuckered so I can't make it worse so going to pull the water cover and head and see what I can see. Replace both seals and then reset the timing and see what we get ...
With water on the plugs it definitely sounds like your problem. Good luck with the job!
@@DangarMarine yeah it certainly seems like it. If the head gasket has an issue, could it still compression test ok? The shop said both cylinders tested at 100psi cold. Not great but not terrible.
Your wall clock is still dies! You promised to fix it. ;)
Ah, I kept my promise! This was filmed last week. :)
I've watched this video multiple times and read through all 310 comments before I reassemble my 1991 Yamaha 115 cylinder head that had a thermostat bolt break in it, then the extractor broke despite my best efforts. I have a new cylinder head, cover and gaskets and worked very carefully to clean the block with scraping and then carefully and diligently used a bench stone to clean the remainder. I have checked and rechecked for warpage (over stoning) with an abnormally long straightedge ;-) My SELOC manual states in BOLD text in multiple sections NOT to use sealer. Stating that an even coat is near impossible to obtain and "Never, never use automotive type head gasket sealer. The chemicals in the sealer will cause electrolytic action and eat the aluminum faster than you can get to the bank for money to buy a new cylinder block." All of this conflicting info is causing my over analytical mind to go into convulsions! Since I live in Alaska and can't seem to get Hylomar and Permatex High Tack spray-a-gasket Adhesive Sealant rated to 450 degrees F. (232 C.) is the closest I can find I think I will just opt to go dry. The manual does call for Permatex on both side of the thermostat gasket so I will use the High-Tack there.
The next thing to agonize over will be how to set all the bolts for new cover and top. I did get all new bolts and even replacement washers. I think I will clean the threads into the block and use the blue Loctite method, decreasing the torque value by 25% as stated here on Anti-Seize Technology site under FAQ: www.antiseize.com/Content/Images/uploaded/torque_specifications.pdf
Stuart, thank you so much for all the videos you have created. Your knowledge and humor have been an invaluable asset to me. I gave you a FB recommendation, subscribed, and ordered a bunch of DM swag from your site so that me and the family can stay warm as we drift aimlessly about as I bollock-up my kicker! I lament that my late father never got the chance to watch your videos. He lived in Australia for a year and had a 39' sailboat in Washington state. He would have loved your channel! He would want me to quote Wind in the Willows and what Water Rat said to the Mole: "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Cheers Stuart! ~Ben (ps I just signed up as a Patreon, keep up the good work and have a Coopers on me, Mate!)
I always see people using bench stones, did you use it on the block with the pistons in? I am afraid of getting metal scrapings in the cylinders by doing this.
Great video your description and explaining is so easy to understand - I’m new to boat engines very familiar to 4 stroke car engines . So you are really helping me to get confident to get a boat and engine and keep it running great 👍 can you recommend a good 100hp outboard and/ or bigger to start my boat life?
You're welcome mate, happy to help. The Yamaha 4 stroke 100s are good outboards.
@@DangarMarine sorry mate I was asking about a good 2 stroke of above 100hp size what’s your professional recommendation 👌?
۸۵ راتوضیح
Stu, I have a Johnson 50 hp. I see some white stuff (salt? corrosion?) around the head gasket near the lower cylinder. Is this the sign that something is wrong or normal occurrence in salt water? Motor starts easy and runs fine. Thanks for the great videos!
Hi Brian, you do see that and it isn't necessarily a sign that the head gasket needs replacing. If you still have good compression I wouldn't worry too much.
Hey mate love the videos. Just curious if you can use a home made paper style gasket for a water jacket? (I have an old 9.8 merc that had a blockage in the water channels). Also any chance you could do a video on how to remove broken bolts if you break off a head bolt etc. that would be super interesting and something many people encounter.
help evinrude 90 hp v4
how tightly to tighten the heads
NM -?
Hi Stu I had this on a 1990 Johnson 40 hp 2stroke and I took off the bottom ring to get bottom bolts accessible. Not that I’m saying you’re doing it wrong. After all the end result is what we are after. Thanks for all you do to help other boaters, you’re fan from Missouri. P.S. The motor would run and miss and sneeze after looking at vacuum leaks mixture settings I found the VRO system was one of the problems causing plugs to foul quickly so I bypass it. It was mixing around 20 to 1 and it couldn’t be fixed. I tested it by how much oil used to a gallon of fuel. Also resetting the timing to the factory marks and fine tuning the carburetors Helped as well.
Yes, taking the lower cowling off can really help with access in many jobs. The trouble with these older salt water boats is that they are some of the most corroded bolts so you always take the risk of something snapping. It isn't hard to see how you go the fouling at 20:1, glad you've got it running nicely now. :)
Gday mate good video ,when i did my 50hp triple i changed the sacraficial anodes in the block ,i didnt see any in this 20 do they not put them in smaller engines ? i also cleaned as much of the water jacket on the block as i could with a wire brush on a dremel tool handy piece of kit that anyway 2 strokes as you say are fairly easy to work on
Hi mate. All outboards are a bit different with the location of the internal anodes. Some are under the head, some are accessed from the side of the block. They will all generally have at least one though.
What would cause a cylinder to have no compression on an outboard Evinrude
Hello Mr. Dangar specialist
Thank you for your great show.
As I can see, you sprayed the seal with a Hylomar spray.
The Yamaha dealer told me that the seals should be installed only on a dry surface. The new head gasket is sticky and the upper gasket is not.
I just put together my 2 T Yamaha 60 FETO. I assembled the seals on dry surface according to the service instructions. I only lubricated the screws. With 35 Nm torque, a litlle bit more.
What is recomended. Or I made a mistake ? Or should I sprayed the seals ?
.... the top tube of the autolube was fell down and the cylinder was oil-free ... ?
When I was doing the protocol lubrication test, I obviously forgot to put it back ?? !! Clever of me
Failed holidays !!!
Thank you for yours the detailed service views and maby your answer ...
Best wishes from Slovenia
Borut
These days I would always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for their head gaskets. It is certainly very common for them to come pre-treated.
What did he spray on the gasket ?
what is the effect of wet spark plug air bang engine 9.8
Nice video but you can tell the guy is backyard trained no factory training of any kind. Which is good down to earth personality not stuck up or tryin to talk a big thumbs up bro!
Thanks Costas, glad you liked it.
Does anyone know if it is common to need to adjust the idle after replacing the head gasket? Hoping it's just a sign mine had been failing slowly for a while and not that I messed something up.
Intersting Video.I do wonder about the pistons in my motor.They are not coated black on top.They are a lighter color.I saw this when changing plugs.Could this be a sign of running lean or something else?Leaky head gasket.If a tiny bity of water was getting in the cylinder would it cause this discoloration.?I am currently sorting thru some idle issues and curious about this .Getting some backfires or lean sneezing?
It does sound like it is running lean.
Thanks..After my last message I went and pulled the plugs again rotated each piston TDC and with a better light I could see half was black with carbon and the upper half was almost like a rust color and almost appears like rust for some odd reason?It couldn't be rust could it?I would not think it could be rust and don't think rust could be on there with it combusting in there.Why is only half this way?This is a Johnson motor.
Don't you hurt the water pump impeller running them dry?
If the cylinder head is stuck you can put back the spark plugs and cranck the engine (leave one or two cylinder head bolts in place but loose)
Yep, I was just mentioning that exact technique to someone else this morning. :)
I heard about it long time ago but fortunately i neved had to use it. Thank you for your time and yor videos.
Great video, have you ever done a rebuild on a yamaha 60-70 hp 3 cylinder crankshaft.
Hmm, just trying to think. I think most of the ones we have repaired have been two cylinder. The dead three cylinder we had in we just did a power head swap because we had one good head and one good leg.
Here in my country Puerto Rico we use 40- 60- 75 hp yamaha enduro for commercial fishing and is very difficult to find a machine shop that can rebuild the press crankshaft on 40 hp and 60 hp yamaha ,if you have the opportunity to rebuild one of these please make a video thanks
Ordering a head gasket and t stat gaskets for my 3 cyl 70 johnson 1984. I see you spray Hy lomar on the gaskets, some gaskets you should not use correct?
Some OEM marine gaskets are already coated. You will feel they have a tacky feel to them already. Those I don't coat. Also, I generally don't coat thermostat or water pump gaskets.
I have a 2004 F115, strong knocking with low oil pressure, 36 psi at 3000 rpm, all 4 with 135 psi. During shop run, 2nd rod kicked and the crank is in question. I got a good used full block with all cylinders, crank shaft, and an used oil pump. I ll check the off oil pump to see if it is the cause. Do you have any ideas to text this type of oil pump? thanks. Dale of Vancouver Island.
Oil pumps are generally tested using feeler gauges to measure the rotor clearances to see if they are too worn. The service manual for that motor will show you where to check and what is considered out of range. Be careful though with oil pressure tests as they can give you a low reading even if the pump is fine if the bearings etc are very worn as the pump needs a restriction to convert the volume of oil pumped into pressure.
Is the head gasket spray really necessary?. I just received my new head gasket and it felt pretty sticky right out the box.
No, some come coated.
Is there a follow-up video of this engine to identify the problem? or did he gave up?😂
Good job...I noticed you put something on the cylinder head bolt threads while reinstalling..In the U.S. mechanics often use a non hardening gasket sealer such as permatex..It prevents salt intrusion on the threads more effectively than greese.Also heads that are slightly warped can often be planed down at a machine shop..or even by hand by using fine Emory cloth sheets..with a figure eight motion..On small engines like this one..(old school) .Another old school trick is remove the inards of the thermostat so you have some restricted flow of the water so it picks up the heat..and yet you don't have the worries of a stuck thermostat..The total removal of the thermostat allows too quick a flow..and might explain the top cylinder carbon.. Carburetion adjustments and cleaning should do the trick unless the intake reed valves are worn out..rare but can cause the issue noted..Disclaimer..The correct repair on the cylinder head cooling is replace the thermostat with a new one..especially if it's a fresh water motor or in a cold climate.There are products to flush through the motor and remove...desolve salt..
Hey Stu, any chance of giving a few tips on removing head bolts on an older Yamaha V6? I'm a bit worried about breaking bolts off in the block.
Colin I am in the same boat so to speak..a 1988 175 hp Yamaha..I have a friend with more experience then I ,even with a marine Mechanics degree I don't have 40 yrs experience..He strongly recommended he do the job because being so old and around salt water using heat(torches) is highly effective in preventing bolts breaking.. Aluminum blocks and heads can be permanently damaged
In short frozen bolts can become a nightmare..Wondering how you made out
@@michaeljacobs2570 I bit the bullet and took it to a marine mechanic, and very lucky that I did. It was a nightmare.......
Another very well explained, step by step, well done again !
Thanks mate. :)
Sir Stu.. Is a leakdown test better in these situations? On my 4 Stroke JetSki I do a compression and Leakdown test the beginning of every season, but not sure how it applies to 2 strokes..
I personally find I get better results with a compression test, but of course that requires the motor to at least be turning over. Leakdown tests are good for identifying if the source of compression loss is the valves but you don't have any with a two stroke so it is of more use with a four stroke.