Yet another amazing combo of studded and studless Technic with a lot of System pieces! Can't get enough of these! I really wish Lego would do more stuff like this instead of relying entirely on studless beams and panels.
Thank you. And I know exactly what you mean but that's just one of many missteps in the recent history of LEGO Group. Well, let's hope for the better :) .
@@dmaclego Your model proves that the blocks shine most when studded technic, studless technic and system are combined together. Lego have been acting like studded technic is kryptonite to them, which is super weird because they use it more than ever in System-primary models for play functions. But yeah, I think that's what makes MOCers like yourself better and more open-minded than most official Lego designers. Cada is making great use of you guys. Also pretty amazing how so many designers are from Poland :D
A really nice model, with nice features and an interesting build. I finished building my model yesterday. However, there are a number of shortcomings. The grille doesn't hold up very well on my copy. Only thanks to the black actuators he does not fly off. In general, this side construction is very vulnerable. In addition, when it comes to cable management, you can't be 100% sure that no cable will end up near a gear. If you press the record on it you just don't see it anymore. This triple plug is also placed exactly above the differentials. Unfortunately with only 2 knobs with little clamping force. When I pressed the plate over the cable, it always pushed the connector forward and was then loose. I finally pressed it against it with pliers on the other side and luckily it held up afterwards. Still a nice model.
Thank you for your kind opinion. I'm sorry to hear you're experiencing problems with the model. 1) Cables should be perfectly safe if folded in a correct way but I agree that it is not always obvious according to instructions (prepared by CaDA). Hopefully, my video helps with that a little. 2) The triple plug is a tricky part, I admit, and it takes some effort to install it properly. Unfortunately, there was no other place for it. By the way, the clamping force was somewhat better with bricks of the other brand ;) . 3) Sure, the body of the model (unlike the chassis) is rather fragile but that is the price for realistic looks. Correct angles, correct colors, almost no visible Technic holes - all of it takes some tinkering and just isn't possible with super-solid Technic building. But the model is remote controlled, so as long as you don't try to pick it up by the bonnet or driver's cabin, it should hold just fine :). 4) About the grille - have you tried removing the blue plates 1x2? Also, make sure the red brackets 2x2 on the side walls are attached at the correct angle and that the whole side walls are UNDER black round tiles 1x1 attached to liftarms that support black actuators. I promise there are no problems with my copy of the model when these conditions are fulfilled. I hope this helps. Have a good time playing with your model!
@@dmaclego Thanks for the detailed answer. Yes, I tried everything with the radiator grill, but it is probably simply due to the not always optimal clamping force Cada. Generally with the system components. Ultimately, it's less of a problem for me now. It's not like the model is played with a lot. The presentation takes place in the showcase :).
I can already tell from this video that I will want to build this kit. I own it, just have not assembled it yet. Based on my view of the front blade, I will want to add reinforcement yellow plates to it. The tile plates are not even. That's a problem.
Congratulation! This is one of the best technic models I've built over the last years! Everything about it is beautiful and well engineered. However I have a problem with the steering: Regardless of whether "half" or "full" steering I often recognize a strong cracking in the overhead turas and the brickbuild cover takes off :-(. I counted the chain links (correct quantity) and ruled out any construction errors. Can you please help me? Thanks in advance!
Thank you for your kind opinion. About that cracking sound - the only reason I can think of might be the incorrect placement of the driving half-axles. They must meet exactly in the middle of two dark gray Technic bricks. Please, let me know if this helps you.
@@dmaclego Unfortunately that wasn't the problem. Additional to that I pulled one of the axles too far out so that the gear dropped out. Now I can rebuild the whole dozer. Thanks anyway!
Hai I just bought and build thi one.. Its nice and your idea of railing is pretty neat😂😂, btw What bulldozer is this? Cat/liebhrr? Some suggestion and question For side panel (6:43) I remove the last yelow thin x1 brick it will make side panel slide easily For 2x2 black lamp cable, i hang on the black top panel, it make wiring more tidy For rear 6 triangle block (bettwen rear light) to make space for cables i just put 1 stud out to rear (kinda hanging) and reposistion the upper plate so it was stable..😢 Question: If i remake transmision siytem into 1 motor per side will it make enough power? Or if i remove the grey gear (bettwen differential) will it work? Thank you very much
Thank you for your kind opinion. Whichever way you decide to modify your model - it's always welcome! That's what brick building is all about: searching solutions that suit you best. CaDA did not obtain a licence for this model, so it's neither a Cat nor a Liebherr - it's just Goliath :) . But I have a feeling that if you look closely at Cat D8T, you may notice some resemblance. If you remove the whole transmission (subtractor mechanism) and use simply one motor per side (geared down, of course), it should run without problems. I don't think it will run, though, if you jest remove one gear from current configuration. They are all there for a reason, you know ;) . Good luck with your experiments!
Dziękuję. W wielu fabrycznie nowych buldożerach, choćby marki Caterpillar, gąsienice są żółte. Szare/metaliczne/rdzawe stają się dopiero gdy złazi z inch farba. Poza tym, w tym samym roku LEGO wypuściło żółte gąsienice w rozmiarze 7, więc wyprodukowanie przez CaDA żółtych gąsienic w rozmiarze 5 było bardzo dobrym posunięciem.
Co do zgodności z prawdziwymi odpowiednikami CAT to oczywiście że tak ma być :) to tylko moje subiektywne zdanie. Zawsze można na stronie cady zamówić 100 płytek szarych gąsienic po 10 centów sztuka :) pewnie kupię ten zestaw ale zostanę przy oryginalnych gąsienicach
Hi, may I ask you a question: I have a severe problem with the track. If I use 51 idividual pieces, there is not enough tension which means that the track slips above the upper wheel and the bulldozer does not drive. If I remove one track piece it's too short and I cannot close the track. I'm not aware that I did anything wrong in building it. I checked several times. Do you have any idea what could be the problem or how to solve it. Best wishes, Marco
Hi Marco. Unfortunately, I can't really help you without a thorough inspection of your model. However, as you surely know, there are only two possible explanations: either you've made a mistake during assembly (yes, I know you've checked) OR the quality of CaDA bricks is getting worse (which is very unlikely, since CaDA parts are generally very good and get better all the time). On purely theoretical level, there could be one more possibility: CaDA track links are NOT identical to LEGO track links so if - by mistake - you used LEGO track links instead of CaDA, track length might be incorrect.... But LEGO does not produce track links in yellow :) . On the other hand... are you 100% sure that it's the track that is slipping over the top wheel? Maybe it's the wheel that makes kind of jerky motions but not actually turning? It would look quite similar to a track slipping over the wheel but the actual reason for this kind of behavior could lay inside the model (and the reason would almost certainly be a misplaced or faulty gear wheel somewhere inside the transmission). I really can't see any other solution to your problem. I hope this helps! Best regards, Maciej
The Lego bulldozer was an easy pass for me but I fear this one is not so. 😱 I like your building style combining technic bricks for function with system bricks for the look. Also great to see those wedge tiles which were long overdue.
Thank you. Well, my building style has its price - models tend to be fragile and heavy, since achieving non-standard shapes and angles requires quite a lot of extra bricks. And yes, the wedge tiles are my small victory :D . Hopefully, we will them soon in other colors, too. As far as I know, there is chance for dark tan 2x3 in the near future ;) .
Sure, it's a mater of taste :) . But although Goliath is a made-up brand, my design is VERY, VERY much inspired by a real life machines and there was no question for me that I should keep the original color scheme, which I like very much.
Thank you. It is a generic model (or, to be more specific, a model of Goliath bullzoder - a fictional brand I invented)... but some people say it is oddly similar to Cat D8T ;).
This looks better than the cat d11, probably because of using both technic parts and bricks make it look smooth with using technic parts to angle and bricks to cover it up
I'm at the part at @5:30 where rhe 3 joined connections go inside and I've been trying to fit this for two days now and it will not go inside, there's just not enough room no matter how to try to fit it. I tried to copy what you did but it just won't go in. I'm puzzled
Hi. I'm very sorry you've encountered a problem but, as you can imagine, I cannot diagnose it properly without peeking inside. As you can see in my video, there should be just enough space for these connectors - unless something went wrong with previous steps of the assembly process. If everything else fails, you may try this improvised solution: strip the three connectors from other small parts (brackets, plates etc.) and just put them (the three connectors stacked together) inside the model. Make sure they do not block the gears in any way and go the next step of the instructions. It should work but please, do not hold me responsible if the gears grind the electric leads ;) . Good luck!
@@dmaclego Did you notice that Manual 2 - Steps C90, C94 and C95 show the wiring colours in one way and then a few pages later, steps C114, C115 and C116 show the wires in a totally different order! - I'm not sure which to go with, did you notice this?
@@stevesgaming7475 No, nobody noticed this until today :) . By the way, I've just checked and in my original instructions for this model the colors have not been switched between steps; the mistake must have been made by CaDA's specialists preparing the final version of the booklet. The good news is that it doesn't really matter. Both pink and blue motor deliver power to the ripper. Depending on how you connect the wires, you will raise/lower the ripper with your right hand finger and change it's angle with left hand finger - or the other way round.
What is the pushing capacity of the dozer? Just noticed mine is having issues, checked the build and everything is right so wondering if it's normal or if the motor is bunk (steering motor is fine tho)
You mean specific numbers for pushing capacity? Come on, it is just a toy :) . It is not supposed to push serious loads, it will not work in sand or mud. However, it will push a bunch of bricks on your table without much effort and you should be able to stop it - on your table, again - with your hand and watch the treads working in place. That's the intended capacity. If you cannot perform this sort of tasks and the model is assembled correctly, then I'd say something is wrong either with the motor or battery box.
@@dmaclego yeah steering works fine but it's not able to spin it's treads even on smooth hardwood. I tried switching hubs & taking it apart but the problem remains. Must be the motor after all. Thanks for your help!
Well, you know MY answer to this question, right? :) Five L motors Pro. Two micromotors. Two sets of remote control. Lights. Black actuators. Yellow actuators. Yellow tracks. Half price.... But ultimately, the choice is yours, of course :).
Model jest fantastyczny , jednakże ma kilka mankamentów- bardzo brakuje możliwości regulacji napięcia gąsiennicy , jak to jest w d10 Lego. W efekcie koło napędowe ślizga się i wyskakuje . Jedynie na śliskiej nawierzchni model skręca bez problemu. W momencie budowania zastanawiałem się czy nie będzie problemem umiejscowienie koła napędowego na górze i niestety samo jedno nie daje rady przy skręcaniu. Poza tym model wizualnie kosmos.
Dziękuję za opinię. Jeżeli zmontowałeś model bezbłędnie, koło napędowe nie powinno się ślizgać - chyba, że a) przeciążasz model jeżdżąc po trudnym podłożu albo b) producent obniżył jakość elementów. Trudno zgadnąć. Koło napędowe umieszczone u góry to znak firmowy buldożerów firmy Cat i z tego co wiem, nikt się nie skarży na to rozwiązanie, którego największym plusem jest to, że układ napędowy nie jest narażony na kontakt z przeszkodami terenowymi. Niestety nie wiem, dlaczego w Twoim egzemplarzu pojawił się problem. Namawiam do wprowadzania usprawnień; wszystko da się jakoś ulepszyć!
@@dmaclego dzięki za odpowiedź! Już kombinuję co z tym zrobić. Generalnie na podłożu typu parkiet czy jakaś terakota nie ma problemu ale już na dywanie gdzie jest większy opór i tarcie koła zaczynają się ślizgać po gąsienicy. Co do napędu to zwracam honor , faktycznie tak to działa. Myślę nad czymś co zwiekszyłoby napięcie gąsienic ale póki co jeszcze nie wymyśliłem;) Co do jakości Cady to wydaje mi się, że producent nie zaoszczędził na jakości. Wydaje mi się, że po prostu waga tej konstrukcji jest tak duża, że przy oporach na gąsienicy ( typu coś szorstkiego jak dywan) koła napędowe tracą z nią kontakt . Próbowałem zabrać jedno ogniwo ale niestety wtedy napięcia są zbyt duże, żeby wgl je spiąć. Pomijając to model jest fenomenalny i ogromnie gratuluję:)
@@Grecki_Bog_Domestos Dziękuję. Jeżeli chcesz zmienić długość gąsienicy, możesz spróbować użyć oryginalnych ogniw gąsienicy LEGO. Na dłuższych odcinkach jest drobna, lecz zauważalna różnica (ale nie pamiętam już, czy z takiej samej liczby ogniw wychodzi dłuższa gąsienica LEGO, czy CaDA). A jeśli chodzi o masę modelu, to sprawa jest oczywista: albo się buduje model czysto Technicowy i wtedy wygląda on tak, jak D-11 wypuszczony przez LEGO, albo się łączy funkcje Technicowe z realistycznym wyglądem i wtedy model swoje waży :) .
Great Design. Much better than Lego's. Cool new colors for actuators and inovative railing solution. Only negative point is that Cada was not able to send with correct 1x2 tiles. Quality control did fail here.
Thank you. I believe it is not the quality control issue - these are the only 1x2 tiles produced by CaDA. I just did not know that when I designed the model :(.
Very weak design in regards engine cover, front panel (grill) can't be attached due to it touching gears at the top. You can solve it in different way but again it's very poor design and is very flimsy. Also steering mechanism makes loud clunking noises when trying to steer the bulldozer and plow stopped working due to gear slippage. Will be remodelling most of it to make it way less heavy and more sturdy. Can't say I'm pleased with it as most parts are 1x pins, very disappointing.
I just got this set for review from cada and wanted to congratulate you on doing such a fantastic job! I noticed a few errors in the instructions but nothing major. All the functions work amazing (except drive but that's because a piece got stuck so my fault 😅) and I love how unlike in the Lego dozer you manage to hide all the motors and most gears pretty well. Oh and having 2 sets of actuators for the Ripper angle and depth not just fake ones🤌🤌🤌 stellar 10/10. One last thing I was trying to find you on instagram, do you have an account there?
Thank you very much for your kind opinion. LEGO must designers follow strict rules; that's why Technic models will never be what I like the most: a mixture of working mechanisms and System aesthetics. And no, I do not use Instagram (or any other social media for that matter). Flickr is where present my photos and TH-cam is my place for videos.
Yet another amazing combo of studded and studless Technic with a lot of System pieces! Can't get enough of these! I really wish Lego would do more stuff like this instead of relying entirely on studless beams and panels.
Thank you.
And I know exactly what you mean but that's just one of many missteps in the recent history of LEGO Group. Well, let's hope for the better :) .
@@dmaclego Your model proves that the blocks shine most when studded technic, studless technic and system are combined together. Lego have been acting like studded technic is kryptonite to them, which is super weird because they use it more than ever in System-primary models for play functions. But yeah, I think that's what makes MOCers like yourself better and more open-minded than most official Lego designers. Cada is making great use of you guys. Also pretty amazing how so many designers are from Poland :D
A really nice model, with nice features and an interesting build. I finished building my model yesterday. However, there are a number of shortcomings. The grille doesn't hold up very well on my copy. Only thanks to the black actuators he does not fly off. In general, this side construction is very vulnerable.
In addition, when it comes to cable management, you can't be 100% sure that no cable will end up near a gear. If you press the record on it you just don't see it anymore. This triple plug is also placed exactly above the differentials. Unfortunately with only 2 knobs with little clamping force. When I pressed the plate over the cable, it always pushed the connector forward and was then loose. I finally pressed it against it with pliers on the other side and luckily it held up afterwards.
Still a nice model.
Thank you for your kind opinion. I'm sorry to hear you're experiencing problems with the model.
1) Cables should be perfectly safe if folded in a correct way but I agree that it is not always obvious according to instructions (prepared by CaDA). Hopefully, my video helps with that a little.
2) The triple plug is a tricky part, I admit, and it takes some effort to install it properly. Unfortunately, there was no other place for it. By the way, the clamping force was somewhat better with bricks of the other brand ;) .
3) Sure, the body of the model (unlike the chassis) is rather fragile but that is the price for realistic looks. Correct angles, correct colors, almost no visible Technic holes - all of it takes some tinkering and just isn't possible with super-solid Technic building. But the model is remote controlled, so as long as you don't try to pick it up by the bonnet or driver's cabin, it should hold just fine :).
4) About the grille - have you tried removing the blue plates 1x2? Also, make sure the red brackets 2x2 on the side walls are attached at the correct angle and that the whole side walls are UNDER black round tiles 1x1 attached to liftarms that support black actuators. I promise there are no problems with my copy of the model when these conditions are fulfilled.
I hope this helps. Have a good time playing with your model!
@@dmaclego Thanks for the detailed answer.
Yes, I tried everything with the radiator grill, but it is probably simply due to the not always optimal clamping force Cada. Generally with the system components.
Ultimately, it's less of a problem for me now. It's not like the model is played with a lot. The presentation takes place in the showcase :).
@@MrVWFAhrer So there are lot of cosmetic brick parts in this assembly? Looks like it. Do these parts hold well or do they fall apart?
I can already tell from this video that I will want to build this kit. I own it, just have not assembled it yet. Based on my view of the front blade, I will want to add reinforcement yellow plates to it. The tile plates are not even. That's a problem.
Congratulation! This is one of the best technic models I've built over the last years! Everything about it is beautiful and well engineered.
However I have a problem with the steering: Regardless of whether "half" or "full" steering I often recognize a strong cracking in the overhead turas and the brickbuild cover takes off :-(.
I counted the chain links (correct quantity) and ruled out any construction errors.
Can you please help me?
Thanks in advance!
Thank you for your kind opinion.
About that cracking sound - the only reason I can think of might be the incorrect placement of the driving half-axles. They must meet exactly in the middle of two dark gray Technic bricks. Please, let me know if this helps you.
@@dmaclego Unfortunately that wasn't the problem. Additional to that I pulled one of the axles too far out so that the gear dropped out. Now I can rebuild the whole dozer. Thanks anyway!
Hai
I just bought and build thi one..
Its nice and your idea of railing is pretty neat😂😂,
btw
What bulldozer is this? Cat/liebhrr?
Some suggestion and question
For side panel (6:43)
I remove the last yelow thin x1 brick it will make side panel slide easily
For 2x2 black lamp cable, i hang on the black top panel, it make wiring more tidy
For rear 6 triangle block (bettwen rear light) to make space for cables
i just put 1 stud out to rear (kinda hanging) and reposistion the upper plate so it was stable..😢
Question:
If i remake transmision siytem into 1 motor per side will it make enough power?
Or if i remove the grey gear (bettwen differential) will it work?
Thank you very much
Thank you for your kind opinion.
Whichever way you decide to modify your model - it's always welcome! That's what brick building is all about: searching solutions that suit you best.
CaDA did not obtain a licence for this model, so it's neither a Cat nor a Liebherr - it's just Goliath :) . But I have a feeling that if you look closely at Cat D8T, you may notice some resemblance.
If you remove the whole transmission (subtractor mechanism) and use simply one motor per side (geared down, of course), it should run without problems.
I don't think it will run, though, if you jest remove one gear from current configuration. They are all there for a reason, you know ;) .
Good luck with your experiments!
@@dmaclego thank you sir.. i also think this is kinda d8t with some difference...😂😂👍👍🦺
Świetna konkstrukcja. Gratuluje :) Pytanie tylko czemu gąsienice nie są szare :( byłoby chyba lepiej!
Dziękuję. W wielu fabrycznie nowych buldożerach, choćby marki Caterpillar, gąsienice są żółte. Szare/metaliczne/rdzawe stają się dopiero gdy złazi z inch farba. Poza tym, w tym samym roku LEGO wypuściło żółte gąsienice w rozmiarze 7, więc wyprodukowanie przez CaDA żółtych gąsienic w rozmiarze 5 było bardzo dobrym posunięciem.
Co do zgodności z prawdziwymi odpowiednikami CAT to oczywiście że tak ma być :) to tylko moje subiektywne zdanie. Zawsze można na stronie cady zamówić 100 płytek szarych gąsienic po 10 centów sztuka :) pewnie kupię ten zestaw ale zostanę przy oryginalnych gąsienicach
My next Set!
Thank you
You're welcome. Have fun with it!
Hi, may I ask you a question: I have a severe problem with the track. If I use 51 idividual pieces, there is not enough tension which means that the track slips above the upper wheel and the bulldozer does not drive. If I remove one track piece it's too short and I cannot close the track. I'm not aware that I did anything wrong in building it. I checked several times. Do you have any idea what could be the problem or how to solve it.
Best wishes,
Marco
Hi Marco. Unfortunately, I can't really help you without a thorough inspection of your model. However, as you surely know, there are only two possible explanations: either you've made a mistake during assembly (yes, I know you've checked) OR the quality of CaDA bricks is getting worse (which is very unlikely, since CaDA parts are generally very good and get better all the time). On purely theoretical level, there could be one more possibility: CaDA track links are NOT identical to LEGO track links so if - by mistake - you used LEGO track links instead of CaDA, track length might be incorrect.... But LEGO does not produce track links in yellow :) .
On the other hand... are you 100% sure that it's the track that is slipping over the top wheel? Maybe it's the wheel that makes kind of jerky motions but not actually turning? It would look quite similar to a track slipping over the wheel but the actual reason for this kind of behavior could lay inside the model (and the reason would almost certainly be a misplaced or faulty gear wheel somewhere inside the transmission). I really can't see any other solution to your problem. I hope this helps!
Best regards,
Maciej
The Lego bulldozer was an easy pass for me but I fear this one is not so. 😱 I like your building style combining technic bricks for function with system bricks for the look. Also great to see those wedge tiles which were long overdue.
Thank you. Well, my building style has its price - models tend to be fragile and heavy, since achieving non-standard shapes and angles requires quite a lot of extra bricks. And yes, the wedge tiles are my small victory :D . Hopefully, we will them soon in other colors, too. As far as I know, there is chance for dark tan 2x3 in the near future ;) .
@@dmaclego And I have a strong feeling we will see the wedge tiles in black very soon. 😉
@@dmaclego yes those wedge tiles and the adjustable railings are revolutionary!
@@Bric_workshop Thanks. I'm really happy CaDA decided to greenlight the railings.
not gonna lie..i feel like gray or black tracks instead of yellow would've look better personally
Sure, it's a mater of taste :) .
But although Goliath is a made-up brand, my design is VERY, VERY much inspired by a real life machines and there was no question for me that I should keep the original color scheme, which I like very much.
At the CaDa price, compared to Lego, you can easily afford to buy extra grey or black track. Or use it from another set you may already own.
@@whatsups3045 yeah definitely. At the price you can modify designs to your own liking relatively cheaply
You did a fantastic job. I ordered it yesterday. Is this the unlicensed replica of an existing bulldozer or just a generic one?
Thank you. It is a generic model (or, to be more specific, a model of Goliath bullzoder - a fictional brand I invented)... but some people say it is oddly similar to Cat D8T ;).
Isn it cat d6?
This looks better than the cat d11, probably because of using both technic parts and bricks make it look smooth with using technic parts to angle and bricks to cover it up
I'm at the part at @5:30 where rhe 3 joined connections go inside and I've been trying to fit this for two days now and it will not go inside, there's just not enough room no matter how to try to fit it. I tried to copy what you did but it just won't go in. I'm puzzled
Hi. I'm very sorry you've encountered a problem but, as you can imagine, I cannot diagnose it properly without peeking inside.
As you can see in my video, there should be just enough space for these connectors - unless something went wrong with previous steps of the assembly process.
If everything else fails, you may try this improvised solution: strip the three connectors from other small parts (brackets, plates etc.) and just put them (the three connectors stacked together) inside the model. Make sure they do not block the gears in any way and go the next step of the instructions. It should work but please, do not hold me responsible if the gears grind the electric leads ;) . Good luck!
@@dmaclego I appreciate your help, thank you!
@@dmaclego Did you notice that Manual 2 - Steps C90, C94 and C95 show the wiring colours in one way and then a few pages later, steps C114, C115 and C116 show the wires in a totally different order! - I'm not sure which to go with, did you notice this?
@@stevesgaming7475 No, nobody noticed this until today :) . By the way, I've just checked and in my original instructions for this model the colors have not been switched between steps; the mistake must have been made by CaDA's specialists preparing the final version of the booklet.
The good news is that it doesn't really matter. Both pink and blue motor deliver power to the ripper. Depending on how you connect the wires, you will raise/lower the ripper with your right hand finger and change it's angle with left hand finger - or the other way round.
@@dmaclego Thank you very much!
What is the pushing capacity of the dozer? Just noticed mine is having issues, checked the build and everything is right so wondering if it's normal or if the motor is bunk (steering motor is fine tho)
You mean specific numbers for pushing capacity? Come on, it is just a toy :) . It is not supposed to push serious loads, it will not work in sand or mud. However, it will push a bunch of bricks on your table without much effort and you should be able to stop it - on your table, again - with your hand and watch the treads working in place. That's the intended capacity. If you cannot perform this sort of tasks and the model is assembled correctly, then I'd say something is wrong either with the motor or battery box.
@@dmaclego yeah steering works fine but it's not able to spin it's treads even on smooth hardwood. I tried switching hubs & taking it apart but the problem remains. Must be the motor after all.
Thanks for your help!
really cool
Thank you.
Mine will be here Friday 3/11. thanks for put this set together.
Please, comment here on the set once you have it assembled. Whether positive or not so positive, feedback is always welcome.
Thanks for the video , only thing I do not like is the stickers , I think without them it would look much better.
I disagree but hey, they are just stickers - optional by nature :) .
Hmhm... what should I buy? This one or lego 42140? Hmhm... 🤔
Well, you know MY answer to this question, right? :) Five L motors Pro. Two micromotors. Two sets of remote control. Lights. Black actuators. Yellow actuators. Yellow tracks. Half price.... But ultimately, the choice is yours, of course :).
Model jest fantastyczny , jednakże ma kilka mankamentów- bardzo brakuje możliwości regulacji napięcia gąsiennicy , jak to jest w d10 Lego. W efekcie koło napędowe ślizga się i wyskakuje . Jedynie na śliskiej nawierzchni model skręca bez problemu. W momencie budowania zastanawiałem się czy nie będzie problemem umiejscowienie koła napędowego na górze i niestety samo jedno nie daje rady przy skręcaniu. Poza tym model wizualnie kosmos.
Dziękuję za opinię. Jeżeli zmontowałeś model bezbłędnie, koło napędowe nie powinno się ślizgać - chyba, że a) przeciążasz model jeżdżąc po trudnym podłożu albo b) producent obniżył jakość elementów. Trudno zgadnąć. Koło napędowe umieszczone u góry to znak firmowy buldożerów firmy Cat i z tego co wiem, nikt się nie skarży na to rozwiązanie, którego największym plusem jest to, że układ napędowy nie jest narażony na kontakt z przeszkodami terenowymi. Niestety nie wiem, dlaczego w Twoim egzemplarzu pojawił się problem. Namawiam do wprowadzania usprawnień; wszystko da się jakoś ulepszyć!
@@dmaclego dzięki za odpowiedź! Już kombinuję co z tym zrobić. Generalnie na podłożu typu parkiet czy jakaś terakota nie ma problemu ale już na dywanie gdzie jest większy opór i tarcie koła zaczynają się ślizgać po gąsienicy. Co do napędu to zwracam honor , faktycznie tak to działa. Myślę nad czymś co zwiekszyłoby napięcie gąsienic ale póki co jeszcze nie wymyśliłem;) Co do jakości Cady to wydaje mi się, że producent nie zaoszczędził na jakości. Wydaje mi się, że po prostu waga tej konstrukcji jest tak duża, że przy oporach na gąsienicy ( typu coś szorstkiego jak dywan) koła napędowe tracą z nią kontakt . Próbowałem zabrać jedno ogniwo ale niestety wtedy napięcia są zbyt duże, żeby wgl je spiąć. Pomijając to model jest fenomenalny i ogromnie gratuluję:)
@@Grecki_Bog_Domestos Dziękuję. Jeżeli chcesz zmienić długość gąsienicy, możesz spróbować użyć oryginalnych ogniw gąsienicy LEGO. Na dłuższych odcinkach jest drobna, lecz zauważalna różnica (ale nie pamiętam już, czy z takiej samej liczby ogniw wychodzi dłuższa gąsienica LEGO, czy CaDA). A jeśli chodzi o masę modelu, to sprawa jest oczywista: albo się buduje model czysto Technicowy i wtedy wygląda on tak, jak D-11 wypuszczony przez LEGO, albo się łączy funkcje Technicowe z realistycznym wyglądem i wtedy model swoje waży :) .
@@dmaclego dzięki za poradę. Ja zdecydowanie jestem zwolennikiem Twojego podejścia. Jak tylko zobaczyłem ten model w necie to narobiłem w spodnie :D
Great Design.
Much better than Lego's.
Cool new colors for actuators and inovative railing solution.
Only negative point is that Cada was not able to send with correct 1x2 tiles. Quality control did fail here.
Thank you. I believe it is not the quality control issue - these are the only 1x2 tiles produced by CaDA. I just did not know that when I designed the model :(.
Very weak design in regards engine cover, front panel (grill) can't be attached due to it touching gears at the top. You can solve it in different way but again it's very poor design and is very flimsy. Also steering mechanism makes loud clunking noises when trying to steer the bulldozer and plow stopped working due to gear slippage. Will be remodelling most of it to make it way less heavy and more sturdy. Can't say I'm pleased with it as most parts are 1x pins, very disappointing.
Good luck remodelling - that's what bricks are for!
Learn how to build bricks dude :)
I just got this set for review from cada and wanted to congratulate you on doing such a fantastic job! I noticed a few errors in the instructions but nothing major. All the functions work amazing (except drive but that's because a piece got stuck so my fault 😅) and I love how unlike in the Lego dozer you manage to hide all the motors and most gears pretty well. Oh and having 2 sets of actuators for the Ripper angle and depth not just fake ones🤌🤌🤌 stellar 10/10. One last thing I was trying to find you on instagram, do you have an account there?
Thank you very much for your kind opinion. LEGO must designers follow strict rules; that's why Technic models will never be what I like the most: a mixture of working mechanisms and System aesthetics.
And no, I do not use Instagram (or any other social media for that matter). Flickr is where present my photos and TH-cam is my place for videos.