Thanks! Remember NOT to use the 3M fire caulk around the thimble because it’s not waterproof and will dissolve in the rain. Use regular outdoor caulk. Check out my zombie power box performance test for effectiveness of the shed..
Good looking shed! I see you incorporated a few ideas from my own shed videos, like the use of the blast gate to pass cables and propane hoses in/out of the shed, Kilmat on the lid, etc. Love to see everyone sharing their ideas and innovations, and then seeing them incorporated and improved into new builds. That's definitely what this whole TH-cam community is about. Thanks for sharing your design. I see the generator exhaust is located under a window. I'm inferring that the building might be another shed, but just a caution to be careful to close that window when running the generator. If it is a house, you should run the exhaust away from the window for safety reasons.
nice clean build. I'm in Katy with a 17500 Generac in a larger shed build with mineral wool. Dude in Houston it gets 116 in the summer with no generator on. My fans shut off at 130 and I have 3. Just so you know the fireproof 3m foam is not fireproof. I used that and the shit melted like butter when it got hot. I like the thimble and dual furnace pipe and the wrap. I will use the thimble and dual pipe if I switch from Generac to Westinghouse. Get you a micro air soft start so you can run that central air in Tx.
Thanks for the micro air soft start tip! I wanted to use the rockwool board but could not find any in stock in my area so I settled for the foam board. Hopefully, it can survive a extended generator run in 100 degree Texas summer heat. Your generator is definitely beefier than mine.
Fireproof foam, rubber flooring, kill mat, radiant barrier foam insulation, and caulking every little area. Very detailed. That giant 6” un insulated plastic hole for cables though. Hmmm.
Yup, I was not aiming for a watertight soundproof box. Sound reduction and critter blocking are two key goals. Note that the 6" hole is a blast door that slides up and down so it is bug proof when closed which is a key goal of the build. No impact on sound when the generator is not running. Yes, when the shed is running the door will have a slight opening to account for the cable but in most cases, I am running the shed in wintertime when bugs are dormant. Small critters won't enter with the generator running. As for 6" of no foam insulation, it does not have much on the sound. Check out the Shed Performance video for details on sound impact. studio.th-cam.com/users/videoluAWRXmicG4/edit
One of the best generator sheds I've seen on TH-cam and an excellent video. The only thing I would have liked to see is the generator running to hear the sound difference with the lid and doors open and shut
Remember NOT to use the 3m fireproof calk. Is is not water resistant and will dissolve in the rain. Use regular outdoor calk to seal the timbal around the shed wall.
You can quiet it further by directing the sound to the ground. 4 pieces of plywood tee-pee style... leaving a 3 inch gap for exhaust. 1 piece of plywood atop the tee-pee... basically soundwaves travel out, the tee-pee allows sound waves to bounce off the plywood and is absorbed into the ground.
Nice build, I would put some type of protection from the exhaust heat getting to the tank. My tank gets warmer than I like even with the guards in place.
Sure thing, Scott. If you go with the build, remember NOT to use the fireproof caulking. It dissolves in the rain. I ended up using regular house caulking to seal up the exhaust area. (The rebar method still is effective)
Neat looking job. My only comment is on your fan. I did a similar project for a 5kw Honda generator. I started with a 12" fan and migrated to a 16" AC Infinity fan (16S) that pumps 3000 cfm. You want to keep the inside temp to 10-15F above ambient. You want that propane tank outside the compartment. Also consider a bimetallic normally open switch inside the compartment (cheap on Ebay0 In my case I got one for 50C and connected it to the low oil level circuit and it shuts off the generator if the fan fails.
Very good points that were also shared by other folks in the comments. I added a 120° cut off switch to the low oil sensor circuit. I also bought a 40 pound tank and propane line extension. That’ll allow me to run the generator on natural gas with the tank outside the shed and I could run the line through the blast gate so I don’t have to cut additional holes in the shed. As for the fan, I’ll keep that in mind. So far, our power failures have been in the cold of winter and ice storms and not in the hot summer months. Thanks for taking time to comment!
The silverboard is mainly marketed as a thermal radiant barrier, the metal foil working as a moisture barrier for home construction. The metal foil on the insulation tends to reflect the sound waves until until they exit the vent. It would be interesting to see decibel difference of lining the walls with material that better absorbs the sound like rock wool.
Instructions: 1. If building a pad is applicable for you, level the dirt and apply leveling sand. Install the 18” pavers in a 3 blocks wide x 4 blocks long. 2. Assemble the shed 3. Use a jigsaw to cut out the openings for the Vent intake and Vent Exhaust 4. Move your generator into the shed so that you can mock-up the exhaust exit cut out. Make sure the hole is slightly below the exhaust port on your generator so that any water intrusion will always drip out of the exhaust. 5. Separate the thimble and trace the hole and then cut it out 6. Use the fireproof foam to fill the shed wall around the thimble hole. Use the remainder to seal the space around the vent, exhaust vent and blast gate holes. U can use regular sealing foam around the vent, exhaust vent and blast gate if you want. 7. Once dry, use a jigsaw/hobby saw blade to trim the excess foam from the holes. This works better than a razor blade on the foam. 8. Install Silverboard using the fender washers and self-tapping screws in all areas except where the exhaust will exit and the general location of the blast door. 9. Measure the floor with the doors closed to ensure correct measure of floor space 10. Cut the rubber mat to size of choice and place on the floor 11. Mount the thimble and anchor with self-tapping screws about ¾ inch in length 12. Determine the location of the blast door. Trace outer diameter of the circle of the blast door tube. Cut out the hole. 13. Mount the blast door using self-tapping screws 14. Mount the intake vent using self-tapping screws. 15. Finish the Silverboard insulation around the thimble and blast door. Make sure you leave space to allow the blast door to slide up and down. 16. Use the almond caulk to seal the exterior of the intake vent and blast door 17. Use the fireproof caulk to seal the exterior of the thimble 18. Cust the Type B Vent Pipe to about 10” in length using a cutoff wheel 19. Cut a piece of stainless screen about 5 inches wide by 15 inches long using cut off wheel 20. Cut a circle of stainless screen about 3 inches in diameter so it can fit into the finished end of the type B vent pipe 21. Caulk in the circular bug screen using the stainless screen as a base to help support the bug screen and act as rebar for the caulking 22. Insert the stainless screen into the thimble by winding it up into a tight circle and the letting it loos and the tension will cause the screen to expand into thimble. 23. Insert the vent tube into the thimble and the screen will provide support and tight fit. Allow for the screen to stick out on both sides of the thimble. 24. With the vent pipe finished end (with bug screen) on the outside of the shed wall, let it extend out about 3-4 inches. 25. Use the fireproof caulk to caulk the exterior of the vent pipe between the thimble and pipe. 26. Cut the PVC pipe to approximately 2.5 foot length (2) 27. Attach the Kilmat to the lid starting at the back of the lid. Once you get to the front section of the lid, you will need the PVC stays to hold up the lid as the weight increases. Insert into the hole on the lid just before the bracket and the other end of the PVC should go in the notch on the side panel that the lid brace will set in when closed. 28. Use the vent pipe material that was left over after trimming the vent pipe by cutting in a 1 inch by 7 inch strip to strengthen the notch in the silver board where the support bracket o the lid rests in. Bend the strip so that it fills the notch and top of the Siverboard. Reinforce the area with Kilmat. 29. Place the generator into the shed and mock-up the proper length needed for the flex exhaust extension 30. Trim the flex exhaust to length using a cutoff wheel 31. Consider installing the spark arrester and cover from the generator to the tip of the exhaust flex tube 32. Wrap the flex exhaust in titanium heat shield wrap 33. Install the exhaust extension onto the generator and then insert into the vent pipe so that it extends to bug screen on the exterior end of the pipe.
Thank you very much for putting this video together! Your attention to detail and concise but informative instructions make this video so easy to follow. I am going to be building an enclosure for an RV generator and your video gave me a lot of great advice. I hope your TH-cam channel is very successful... if that is what you want ;-)
Great video, this is very helpful with understanding the process to prepare the shed. What type of saw did you use to cut the circle for the blast gate and exhaust/thimble? I've seen other videos where the hole ended up being a bit too big and it required something else around the edges to seal things up from the outside. I'd like to make sure I have the right tool, my plan was to use a jigsaw for all of the cuts, but will invest in a more proper tool if it's needed.
@@karlku5835 thanks for the feedback! To cut the square vent holes, I used to jigsaw but first drilled quarter inch holes in the corners of the traced out square. That allows you to get the jigsaw blade through the plastic and have straight line cuts for nice square corners. For the exhaust pipe flange , I used a hole saw from Amazon kit Luckyway 17-Piece Hole Saw Kit, Hole Saw Set a.co/d/8SYz9er. The black gate requires a 6 inch holesaw which I don’t have as the kit only goes up to 5 inch circles. So I just traced the circle and carefully cut out with a jigsaw.
After some hard November rain, I found out that the 3M fireproof caulking that I used IS NOT WATER PROOF. The area around the thimble and duravent pipe had almost all of the caulking dissolve and disappear. I think this type of caulk is for internal use only. I then used regular outdoor caulking and hope that it can tolerate temperatures of the outer wall of the duravent pipe. (~130 degrees)
While fire rated spray foam may be moisture resistant I would be concerned about it breaking down over time from exposure to UV light. I would apply suitable exterior paint to provide UV protection
Awesome job! Was wondering if you can provide where you purchased the bug screen kit used on the exhaust. Also the thimble that supports the 3” double wall vent pipe
I used a 4ft long aluminum ruler and laid it on the mat and kneeled on it. It made a great guide for the box cutter razor. It took a few passes to cut thru and the cur was clean and straight. I am sure a tablesaw would slice right through it with a fine blade, but it may be a bit messy with the rubber dust.
I just recently added a temperature, cut off switch to the generator to shut down if the temperature in the shed gets above 120°. Check out my comment from a few days ago.
I like your design, very well done! Are you concerned with the proximity of your exhaust to that window? Is that maybe a garage and not the house? Again, nice work!
@@dutchless7794 KEN BROWN 12 Inch Shutter Exhaust Fan Wall Mounted,Aluminum with 1.65 Meters Power Cord Kit,High Speed 1800CFM,Vent fan for Commercial,Greenhouse,Attic,Shed,Shop. See summary notes for amazon link.
Modified the build by adding a 120 degree temp switch into the low oil cutoff circuit. This will provide a safety should the exhaust fan fail, or temperatures rise in the shed for some other unknown reason. This will ensure that the generator won't keep running if temperatures approach risk to the propane tank and/or the generator and engine component failure. How To: I simply cut the low oil sensor wire and added a molex connector to each piece of wire. Then made a harness from the temp switch with one ground wire to the engine block and one wire that is split into two with a molex connector on each end. These plug into the original low oil sensor wire. Part number is: www.amazon.com/dp/B07L95FMMG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I tested the harness first on the bench with voltmeter and then on the generator. I just plugged a heat gun into the generator and started it up. Then I fanned the temp switch a bit and sure enough, the generator shut down. I waited a few minutes and the generator started back up without an issue and I repeated the test. Same result. All Good. Using Molex connectors is optional as it allows for removing the temp switch from the oil cut off circuit very quickly if needing to debug engine that does not run. Also makes swapping out a new temp switch very easy as it can be done from the workbench instead of on your knees in the shed. YT has many videos on how to install molex connectors and the tools you need. Amazon has lots of Molex connector kits. You could just crimp your connections if you don't want to go the Molex route. Also added 40lb propane tank with a 12-foot propane hose extension so that propane tank can be placed outside the shed on very hot days.
Hand held jigsaw. Drill 1/2 inch hole near the corn er of your square mark off and then insert the jigsaw blade and cut on the line. I drilled 4 holds in the corners and then just ran the jigsaw from one corner to the next corner. Very easy to do.
Odd my 50amp plug fit through an RV Hatch, at least the ones I bought! Are there 2 sizes? I also didn't use a exhaust pipe like you did and instead lowered my my fan to the center of the shed and just let it suck out the heat, I've been using it for every little power outage since the Texas freeze and haven't had any problems. I didn't insulate mine either and the inside never has got too hot.
My 50 amp cord is shaped like an "L" with a fist handle so the plugs and elbow and handle are too wide to fit through an RV hatch or at least the 5 inch hatch that I tried. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JW6CBXH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09S8G9CF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@akoporc Hmmmm...........The cord you linked to on Amazon, which is very similar to the one I use, only one side is L-Shaped, the other side ought to fit through the hatch fine, there isn't any need to stick both sides through is it? LOL!
No issues. It would need to be at least 365° to melt the rubber. If it ever got that hot, The shed and many generator plastic components would have already melted.
Wonder if you can cut a notch on the blast cate door the same width of the 50 amp cord girth. So when you have your cord in you can slide the door down and it would have a better closed fit?
Yeah, I thought about that, too. However, if notched for cord clearance, there would be a gap in the notch when the blast door was closed and the cord was not in use. That would allow critters access.
I live in Houston Texas and I built this shed. it is june 10th 2023 the temperature right now is a warm 86° I have tried and tried to get the temperature below 104 and I can't do it when I'm running the generator. How do you have your generator in a shed and control the temperature so that it doesn't ruin your machine? please let me know
104 degrees should be well within the temperature tolerance of your generator's engine and the electrical generator. 120 is the upper limit of heat where you can damage the piston rings and/or the generator bearings/internals. That is why I installed the temp safety switch (see comments below for details) Ensure that you wrapped the exhaust extension with heat wrap tape. In my performance test video, the temperature of the engine exhaust vent with the heat gun measured over 300 degrees with the tape on. Also, make sure that you have the generator power switch on so the exhaust fan is running and cycling air thru the shed box (I know, Captain Obvious stuff but if your just testing shed temp and not actually using any tools, appliances during your test, you may have forgot to activate the power switch. I know, because I did this exact thing!) Another Houstonian commented below that they used a larger exhaust fan, that might help. My shed is in the shade. If yours is in direct sunlight, close the shed and don't run the generator. See how hot your shed gets when sitting in the sun and closed. My guess is that the shed will be hotter than the outside temp. That should be your baseline and then check the temp when the generator is running with the shed closed. Try running the generator in the shed with the lid or the doors partially open and see if you get the 104 temperature reading to drop. I would open the lid and the doors all the way and put using your same temperature measuring tool/method and see what the temp rating is just to get a baseline. Remember, you need to measure the temperature of the air in the shed, not the generator. The generator will be hotter than the outside temperature due to it creating its own heat. If your shed/generator runs at a stable 104 degrees, you should be good to go. If the temperature outside is in the 90s and your shed is in full sun, you may need to run it with the lid or doors ajar.
@@akoporc correct 104 should be okay but it's running in the shed about 118. when your shed is all closed up and you ran it for 5 hours what's the temperature inside your shed?
Use a cut off wheel to trim off about an inch to an inch and a half off each thimble insert so that when they’re slid together, they but up against each other at the 2 inch distance.
@@akoporc What if, you build a vent on top (roof) and leave the fan where it is right now. This way the air outside has a lower temp than the one inside. I’m sure you know that heat rises. Just a suggestion.🤔🤔
@@fabiodarocha2842 The exhaust fan is designed to vent an attic, garage or shop space. The generator is a fraction of that size so the fan moves a lot of air thru the shed via the big vent on the opposite side of the shed. If you put a vent on the lid of the shed (top), it won't be water-proof and the generator will get wet when it rains. Even though heat rises, so much air is moving thru the shed that it does not really get a change to heat up.
@@akoporc I see!! I came up with that idea , because I build electrical panels ( big ones) and customers require that we build it with air being extracted from outside and a vent built on top , on the sides.
Question..I use my Westinghouse same as yours , but for rv-ing, my 50 amp cable is tough to plug in because tire is in the way, I have to force it over the tire to plug it in..what do you use for a 50 amp plug
I have the same issue with my 50amp cord. I have to bend the cable around the wheel. I keep my 50amp cable in my house so if it cold outside when the generator is needed, the cable is pretty flexible. I thought about getting smaller diameter wheels but after running the generator for 6-8 days during power outages, there were no issues with the cable kinking.
I know the interior insulation is popular but doesn’t it trap heat. Here in Florida hurricanes hit in the hot steamy months and extra heat may not be good.
Why use all that Culk to seal small seems? When the box itself isn't a sealed box. The lid, the doors, etc not of that is water sealed and can't be for functional reasons
I agree that the shed is not perfectly “airtight” sealed. The goal was to seal up lower points of entry so that animals, rodents large insects or ants would have a much harder time getting into the shed when snooping around the shed from the ground level. When I test ran the generator in June to charge the battery, and just keep things limber, the only thing in the shed were a few spiders and their victims. Trying to keep out chewing critters or nesting, bees or wasps are the top priority.
Lol...yeah it may look that way. That's not my house, that's my shed in the very back of the yard. It may be confusing since everything is bigger in Texas. Thanks for checking out the video. The follow up shed performance video shows the exhaust exit in detail behind the shed. th-cam.com/video/luAWRXmicG4/w-d-xo.html
Very nice build. But you know the law of averages. After going through all that work, you will never need it. However, had you not did all this, your power would've shut down within a couple days for some reason. Kinda like all the insurance we buy.
Thanks for the kind words. Yep, I approached this project from a risk management (insurance) perspective. Unlike 'soft' insurance where you are out assets (cash) if you never file a claim, in this case, regardless of ever needing to use the shed/generator for an emergency, I still always have 'hard' assets in the form of the generator, cables, shed storage. Basically, there are certain types of insurance where you need to self-insure with food, protection, communication and energy. Especially in more zombie-like scenarios where 'no one is coming' to help. While a low probability event, it's is still good to have an insurance plan in place. No different than having home owners insurance where the probability of fire, flood, tornado is very low. Yet most people still have it. Interesting how most folks have insurance to protect their stuff and estate but don't have a plan to protect their own survival in atypical circumstances. No high school gymnasium cot or FEMA camp for my family.
Well, just two weeks after your kind comment, sure enough, Austin was pounded with 2-day ice storm that included a midnight freezing thunderstorm. We have been without power for 2.5 days and most likely won't have it again until Saturday. (total of 4-5 days) The generator is nice and dry and the shed is working like a charm. I have not ordered a temp cap switch yet as I have to determine if I need a open or close switch depending how my low oil sensor is rigged up. Now, for the massive tree cleanup. Even folks like me that keep our trees well pruned still lost lots of big limbs. The freezing thunderstorm what did the trees in.
@@akoporc Well it turns out you sure did the right thing. And what a sweet setup, nice job. You guys down there have been getting hit with some awful ice the last 2 or 3 years I see. Up here in CO mostly just snow, so we normally don't deal with those ice storms. I just retired and have yet to collect on any insurance, didn't need to. When I was growing up my Dad owned a big lumberyard that covered a large area. His insurance was so high he just got sick of paying all that money out and canceled it. A week later a tornado came through and wiped out half the buildings. But you shouldn't need a temp cap switch now with the colder temps? And I'm sure you can sleep better knowing you have the insurance motor to keep you warm and toasty.
I was trying to be cheap and get a smaller shed, but I have a benchmark 11k / 9k generator, so a larger shed would give me alot more space to work with... no point in spending 250 for a shed that you can't close the doors with the cords on eh
Consider that using the generator in the shed may be a rare occurrence. So extra the room could also be used to store other. (cables, tools, soil, etc)
The only thing that I didn't like was the location, I noticed you really have that exhaust pointed right close to the corner of the house and the fence. The sound must really reverberate in that corner. I noticed you didn't show us how it sounded when you were done.
For performance results, watch this follow up: th-cam.com/video/luAWRXmicG4/w-d-xo.html The location is in the furthest corner for my and my 3 neighbors' yards. The "house" that you are referring to is my shed which acts like a giant muffler by having the sound be absorbed by the fence ally way behind the shed.
@akoporc thank you for the quick response, I didn't realize you had a space behind the shed. It looked from this video that it was a pretty closed corner. Not as bad as I thought.
@akoporc if you have natural gas that's acceptable you might want to consider running a gas line to it. That way you don't have to worry about getting the propane tank filled.
Extending the exhaust pipe, a few feet at the same diameter, should not create back pressure. My understanding is that when you use much longer pipe and route it vertically with 90 degree angle fitting and/or using a muffler at the end of any exhaust extension, that could change the back pressure and engine tuning.
This is the best generator shed build video I've seen, and I have watched hundreds! I really appreciate the detailed material list!
Thanks! Remember NOT to use the 3M fire caulk around the thimble because it’s not waterproof and will dissolve in the rain. Use regular outdoor caulk. Check out my zombie power box performance test for effectiveness of the shed..
Good looking shed! I see you incorporated a few ideas from my own shed videos, like the use of the blast gate to pass cables and propane hoses in/out of the shed, Kilmat on the lid, etc. Love to see everyone sharing their ideas and innovations, and then seeing them incorporated and improved into new builds. That's definitely what this whole TH-cam community is about. Thanks for sharing your design.
I see the generator exhaust is located under a window. I'm inferring that the building might be another shed, but just a caution to be careful to close that window when running the generator. If it is a house, you should run the exhaust away from the window for safety reasons.
nice clean build. I'm in Katy with a 17500 Generac in a larger shed build with mineral wool. Dude in Houston it gets 116 in the summer with no generator on. My fans shut off at 130 and I have 3. Just so you know the fireproof 3m foam is not fireproof. I used that and the shit melted like butter when it got hot. I like the thimble and dual furnace pipe and the wrap. I will use the thimble and dual pipe if I switch from Generac to Westinghouse. Get you a micro air soft start so you can run that central air in Tx.
Thanks for the micro air soft start tip! I wanted to use the rockwool board but could not find any in stock in my area so I settled for the foam board. Hopefully, it can survive a extended generator run in 100 degree Texas summer heat. Your generator is definitely beefier than mine.
Comment #100: well thought generator shed! Thank you for posting links on the products used
Fireproof foam, rubber flooring, kill mat, radiant barrier foam insulation, and caulking every little area. Very detailed. That giant 6” un insulated plastic hole for cables though. Hmmm.
Yup, I was not aiming for a watertight soundproof box. Sound reduction and critter blocking are two key goals. Note that the 6" hole is a blast door that slides up and down so it is bug proof when closed which is a key goal of the build. No impact on sound when the generator is not running. Yes, when the shed is running the door will have a slight opening to account for the cable but in most cases, I am running the shed in wintertime when bugs are dormant. Small critters won't enter with the generator running. As for 6" of no foam insulation, it does not have much on the sound. Check out the Shed Performance video for details on sound impact. studio.th-cam.com/users/videoluAWRXmicG4/edit
One of the best generator sheds I've seen on TH-cam and an excellent video. The only thing I would have liked to see is the generator running to hear the sound difference with the lid and doors open and shut
Check out the Zombie Power Box performance test video. It has lots of sound test data! th-cam.com/video/luAWRXmicG4/w-d-xo.html
Excellent, detailed vid!
I will be building one of these this spring for my Duromax 13000E.
I will definitely be using some of your ideas. Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice job. I am going to incorporate some of your items in my build. Thanks for the inventory list, very helpful.
Remember NOT to use the 3m fireproof calk. Is is not water resistant and will dissolve in the rain. Use regular outdoor calk to seal the timbal around the shed wall.
Excellent video. Well prepared project and great notes for others (me) to follow.
Thanks!
You can quiet it further by directing the sound to the ground. 4 pieces of plywood tee-pee style... leaving a 3 inch gap for exhaust. 1 piece of plywood atop the tee-pee... basically soundwaves travel out, the tee-pee allows sound waves to bounce off the plywood and is absorbed into the ground.
Nice build, I would put some type of protection from the exhaust heat getting to the tank. My tank gets warmer than I like even with the guards in place.
Thank you for this video and detailed list
And hello from Canada !
Sure thing, Scott. If you go with the build, remember NOT to use the fireproof caulking. It dissolves in the rain. I ended up using regular house caulking to seal up the exhaust area. (The rebar method still is effective)
@@akoporc well damn, thank you for the heads up on that !
Neat looking job. My only comment is on your fan. I did a similar project for a 5kw Honda generator. I started with a 12" fan and migrated to a 16" AC Infinity fan (16S) that pumps 3000 cfm. You want to keep the inside temp to 10-15F above ambient. You want that propane tank outside the compartment. Also consider a bimetallic normally open switch inside the compartment (cheap on Ebay0 In my case I got one for 50C and connected it to the low oil level circuit and it shuts off the generator if the fan fails.
Very good points that were also shared by other folks in the comments. I added a 120° cut off switch to the low oil sensor circuit. I also bought a 40 pound tank and propane line extension. That’ll allow me to run the generator on natural gas with the tank outside the shed and I could run the line through the blast gate so I don’t have to cut additional holes in the shed. As for the fan, I’ll keep that in mind. So far, our power failures have been in the cold of winter and ice storms and not in the hot summer months. Thanks for taking time to comment!
What about a temperature sensor for the exhaust fan ?
The silverboard is mainly marketed as a thermal radiant barrier, the metal foil working as a moisture barrier for home construction.
The metal foil on the insulation tends to reflect the sound waves until until they exit the vent.
It would be interesting to see decibel difference of lining the walls with material that better absorbs the sound like rock wool.
Instructions:
1. If building a pad is applicable for you, level the dirt and apply leveling sand. Install the 18” pavers in a 3 blocks wide x 4 blocks long.
2. Assemble the shed
3. Use a jigsaw to cut out the openings for the Vent intake and Vent Exhaust
4. Move your generator into the shed so that you can mock-up the exhaust exit cut out. Make sure the hole is slightly below the exhaust port on your generator so that any water intrusion will always drip out of the exhaust.
5. Separate the thimble and trace the hole and then cut it out
6. Use the fireproof foam to fill the shed wall around the thimble hole. Use the remainder to seal the space around the vent, exhaust vent and blast gate holes. U can use regular sealing foam around the vent, exhaust vent and blast gate if you want.
7. Once dry, use a jigsaw/hobby saw blade to trim the excess foam from the holes. This works better than a razor blade on the foam.
8. Install Silverboard using the fender washers and self-tapping screws in all areas except where the exhaust will exit and the general location of the blast door.
9. Measure the floor with the doors closed to ensure correct measure of floor space
10. Cut the rubber mat to size of choice and place on the floor
11. Mount the thimble and anchor with self-tapping screws about ¾ inch in length
12. Determine the location of the blast door. Trace outer diameter of the circle of the blast door tube. Cut out the hole.
13. Mount the blast door using self-tapping screws
14. Mount the intake vent using self-tapping screws.
15. Finish the Silverboard insulation around the thimble and blast door. Make sure you leave space to allow the blast door to slide up and down.
16. Use the almond caulk to seal the exterior of the intake vent and blast door
17. Use the fireproof caulk to seal the exterior of the thimble
18. Cust the Type B Vent Pipe to about 10” in length using a cutoff wheel
19. Cut a piece of stainless screen about 5 inches wide by 15 inches long using cut off wheel
20. Cut a circle of stainless screen about 3 inches in diameter so it can fit into the finished end of the type B vent pipe
21. Caulk in the circular bug screen using the stainless screen as a base to help support the bug screen and act as rebar for the caulking
22. Insert the stainless screen into the thimble by winding it up into a tight circle and the letting it loos and the tension will cause the screen to expand into thimble.
23. Insert the vent tube into the thimble and the screen will provide support and tight fit. Allow for the screen to stick out on both sides of the thimble.
24. With the vent pipe finished end (with bug screen) on the outside of the shed wall, let it extend out about 3-4 inches.
25. Use the fireproof caulk to caulk the exterior of the vent pipe between the thimble and pipe.
26. Cut the PVC pipe to approximately 2.5 foot length (2)
27. Attach the Kilmat to the lid starting at the back of the lid. Once you get to the front section of the lid, you will need the PVC stays to hold up the lid as the weight increases. Insert into the hole on the lid just before the bracket and the other end of the PVC should go in the notch on the side panel that the lid brace will set in when closed.
28. Use the vent pipe material that was left over after trimming the vent pipe by cutting in a 1 inch by 7 inch strip to strengthen the notch in the silver board where the support bracket o the lid rests in. Bend the strip so that it fills the notch and top of the Siverboard. Reinforce the area with Kilmat.
29. Place the generator into the shed and mock-up the proper length needed for the flex exhaust extension
30. Trim the flex exhaust to length using a cutoff wheel
31. Consider installing the spark arrester and cover from the generator to the tip of the exhaust flex tube
32. Wrap the flex exhaust in titanium heat shield wrap
33. Install the exhaust extension onto the generator and then insert into the vent pipe so that it extends to bug screen on the exterior end of the pipe.
Thank you very much for putting this video together! Your attention to detail and concise but informative instructions make this video so easy to follow. I am going to be building an enclosure for an RV generator and your video gave me a lot of great advice. I hope your TH-cam channel is very successful... if that is what you want ;-)
@@ctkdev Thanks. Just sharing tips and lessons learned to aid others. Thanks for the kind feedback!
What about a thermo sensor for the exhaust on and off function ?@@akoporc
Great video, this is very helpful with understanding the process to prepare the shed. What type of saw did you use to cut the circle for the blast gate and exhaust/thimble? I've seen other videos where the hole ended up being a bit too big and it required something else around the edges to seal things up from the outside. I'd like to make sure I have the right tool, my plan was to use a jigsaw for all of the cuts, but will invest in a more proper tool if it's needed.
@@karlku5835 thanks for the feedback! To cut the square vent holes, I used to jigsaw but first drilled quarter inch holes in the corners of the traced out square. That allows you to get the jigsaw blade through the plastic and have straight line cuts for nice square corners. For the exhaust pipe flange , I used a hole saw from Amazon kit Luckyway 17-Piece Hole Saw Kit, Hole Saw Set a.co/d/8SYz9er. The black gate requires a 6 inch holesaw which I don’t have as the kit only goes up to 5 inch circles. So I just traced the circle and carefully cut out with a jigsaw.
After some hard November rain, I found out that the 3M fireproof caulking that I used IS NOT WATER PROOF. The area around the thimble and duravent pipe had almost all of the caulking dissolve and disappear. I think this type of caulk is for internal use only. I then used regular outdoor caulking and hope that it can tolerate temperatures of the outer wall of the duravent pipe. (~130 degrees)
Use Fire Foam
While fire rated spray foam may be moisture resistant I would be concerned about it breaking down over time from exposure to UV light. I would apply suitable exterior paint to provide UV protection
Nice clean job
Thanks!
I might try to run the exhaust out above the air circulation fan to avoid pulling the hot exhaust back in
Very nice build! It looks very clean
Thanks!
Awesome job! Was wondering if you can provide where you purchased the bug screen kit used on the exhaust. Also the thimble that supports the 3” double wall vent pipe
a.co/d/4ppivAh
a.co/d/3CO8xrV
(Home depot might have the same thimble cheaper price)
Love your build. What tool did you use to cut the rubber mat?
I used a 4ft long aluminum ruler and laid it on the mat and kneeled on it. It made a great guide for the box cutter razor. It took a few passes to cut thru and the cur was clean and straight. I am sure a tablesaw would slice right through it with a fine blade, but it may be a bit messy with the rubber dust.
I just recently added a temperature, cut off switch to the generator to shut down if the temperature in the shed gets above 120°. Check out my comment from a few days ago.
@@akoporc Will you please provide the temperature cut off switch you used? Thanks
@@apb5866 www.amazon.com/dp/B07L95FMMG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I'm looking for the second part where it shows the decibels? Can you please reply with the link
I like your design, very well done! Are you concerned with the proximity of your exhaust to that window? Is that maybe a garage and not the house?
Again, nice work!
Thanks! The window is a shed, not the house. Consider watching the performance test video for details on exhaust path.
How is that silverboard work for sound proofing? Love the build.
For performance results, watch this follow up: th-cam.com/video/luAWRXmicG4/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Since i have the same model generator as you show, how much CFM did you select for your fan to move (exhaust)? That’s all I’m stuck on.
@@dutchless7794 KEN BROWN 12 Inch Shutter Exhaust Fan Wall Mounted,Aluminum with 1.65 Meters Power Cord Kit,High Speed 1800CFM,Vent fan for Commercial,Greenhouse,Attic,Shed,Shop. See summary notes for amazon link.
How many sqft of the sound mat is needed for this project?
Whatever the square footage of your shed footprint. My sheds base is 3 ft. 8 in. x 5 ft. 11 in.
Modified the build by adding a 120 degree temp switch into the low oil cutoff circuit. This will provide a safety should the exhaust fan fail, or temperatures rise in the shed for some other unknown reason. This will ensure that the generator won't keep running if temperatures approach risk to the propane tank and/or the generator and engine component failure.
How To: I simply cut the low oil sensor wire and added a molex connector to each piece of wire. Then made a harness from the temp switch with one ground wire to the engine block and one wire that is split into two with a molex connector on each end. These plug into the original low oil sensor wire. Part number is: www.amazon.com/dp/B07L95FMMG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I tested the harness first on the bench with voltmeter and then on the generator. I just plugged a heat gun into the generator and started it up. Then I fanned the temp switch a bit and sure enough, the generator shut down. I waited a few minutes and the generator started back up without an issue and I repeated the test. Same result. All Good.
Using Molex connectors is optional as it allows for removing the temp switch from the oil cut off circuit very quickly if needing to debug engine that does not run. Also makes swapping out a new temp switch very easy as it can be done from the workbench instead of on your knees in the shed. YT has many videos on how to install molex connectors and the tools you need. Amazon has lots of Molex connector kits. You could just crimp your connections if you don't want to go the Molex route.
Also added 40lb propane tank with a 12-foot propane hose extension so that propane tank can be placed outside the shed on very hot days.
Is the silver board actually fire resistant?
@@KenForbes-de3rf specs for the silver board can be found here www.amvicsystem.com/products/hd-foam/silverboard/#about-silverboard
@@KenForbes-de3rf the main purpose of the silver board is for sound deadening, and heat reflection away from the plastic walls
What tool did you use to cut the square for the fan on the shed?
Hand held jigsaw. Drill 1/2 inch hole near the corn er of your square mark off and then insert the jigsaw blade and cut on the line. I drilled 4 holds in the corners and then just ran the jigsaw from one corner to the next corner. Very easy to do.
Odd my 50amp plug fit through an RV Hatch, at least the ones I bought! Are there 2 sizes? I also didn't use a exhaust pipe like you did and instead lowered my my fan to the center of the shed and just let it suck out the heat, I've been using it for every little power outage since the Texas freeze and haven't had any problems. I didn't insulate mine either and the inside never has got too hot.
My 50 amp cord is shaped like an "L" with a fist handle so the plugs and elbow and handle are too wide to fit through an RV hatch or at least the 5 inch hatch that I tried.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JW6CBXH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09S8G9CF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@akoporc Hmmmm...........The cord you linked to on Amazon, which is very similar to the one I use, only one side is L-Shaped, the other side ought to fit through the hatch fine, there isn't any need to stick both sides through is it? LOL!
have you had any issues on your rubber mat due to extreme heat from the generator, such as melting.
No issues. It would need to be at least 365° to melt the rubber. If it ever got that hot, The shed and many generator plastic components would have already melted.
Wonder if you can cut a notch on the blast cate door the same width of the 50 amp cord girth. So when you have your cord in you can slide the door down and it would have a better closed fit?
Yeah, I thought about that, too. However, if notched for cord clearance, there would be a gap in the notch when the blast door was closed and the cord was not in use. That would allow critters access.
How big is the the shed?
www.homedepot.com/p/Suncast-Stow-Away-3-ft-8-in-x-5-ft-11-in-Resin-Horizontal-Storage-Shed-BMS4700/204508963
I live in Houston Texas and I built this shed. it is june 10th 2023 the temperature right now is a warm 86° I have tried and tried to get the temperature below 104 and I can't do it when I'm running the generator. How do you have your generator in a shed and control the temperature so that it doesn't ruin your machine? please let me know
104 degrees should be well within the temperature tolerance of your generator's engine and the electrical generator. 120 is the upper limit of heat where you can damage the piston rings and/or the generator bearings/internals. That is why I installed the temp safety switch (see comments below for details)
Ensure that you wrapped the exhaust extension with heat wrap tape. In my performance test video, the temperature of the engine exhaust vent with the heat gun measured over 300 degrees with the tape on. Also, make sure that you have the generator power switch on so the exhaust fan is running and cycling air thru the shed box (I know, Captain Obvious stuff but if your just testing shed temp and not actually using any tools, appliances during your test, you may have forgot to activate the power switch. I know, because I did this exact thing!)
Another Houstonian commented below that they used a larger exhaust fan, that might help.
My shed is in the shade. If yours is in direct sunlight, close the shed and don't run the generator. See how hot your shed gets when sitting in the sun and closed. My guess is that the shed will be hotter than the outside temp. That should be your baseline and then check the temp when the generator is running with the shed closed.
Try running the generator in the shed with the lid or the doors partially open and see if you get the 104 temperature reading to drop. I would open the lid and the doors all the way and put using your same temperature measuring tool/method and see what the temp rating is just to get a baseline. Remember, you need to measure the temperature of the air in the shed, not the generator. The generator will be hotter than the outside temperature due to it creating its own heat. If your shed/generator runs at a stable 104 degrees, you should be good to go. If the temperature outside is in the 90s and your shed is in full sun, you may need to run it with the lid or doors ajar.
@@akoporc correct 104 should be okay but it's running in the shed about 118. when your shed is all closed up and you ran it for 5 hours what's the temperature inside your shed?
@@MrJett111 that was back in the ice storm in February, so the temperature outside was below freezing
Seems like it would be easier to just plant follage to hide it
@@amelliamendel2227 check this vid for sound reduction results th-cam.com/video/luAWRXmicG4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qb5UOF9jQ2VjZ7lb
The thimble says fits 4 to 7 inch walls how did it fit on shed walls which are maybe 2 inches thick Thanks.
Use a cut off wheel to trim off about an inch to an inch and a half off each thimble insert so that when they’re slid together, they but up against each other at the 2 inch distance.
@@akoporc Ok thanks.
Is the fan bringing air into it or out ?
The fan is pushing air out of the shed
@@akoporc What if, you build a vent on top (roof) and leave the fan where it is right now. This way the air outside has a lower temp than the one inside. I’m sure you know that heat rises. Just a suggestion.🤔🤔
I meant to say bring the air into the shed.
@@fabiodarocha2842 The exhaust fan is designed to vent an attic, garage or shop space. The generator is a fraction of that size so the fan moves a lot of air thru the shed via the big vent on the opposite side of the shed. If you put a vent on the lid of the shed (top), it won't be water-proof and the generator will get wet when it rains. Even though heat rises, so much air is moving thru the shed that it does not really get a change to heat up.
@@akoporc I see!! I came up with that idea , because I build electrical panels ( big ones) and customers require that we build it with air being extracted from outside and a vent built on top , on the sides.
I couldn’t find your inventory for the shed build please re-posted here in the comments session. Thank you.
Click on the video description “…more” and expand the inventory list there. Thanks!
Question..I use my Westinghouse same as yours , but for rv-ing, my 50 amp cable is tough to plug in because tire is in the way, I have to force it over the tire to plug it in..what do you use for a 50 amp plug
I have the same issue with my 50amp cord. I have to bend the cable around the wheel. I keep my 50amp cable in my house so if it cold outside when the generator is needed, the cable is pretty flexible. I thought about getting smaller diameter wheels but after running the generator for 6-8 days during power outages, there were no issues with the cable kinking.
I know the interior insulation is popular but doesn’t it trap heat. Here in Florida hurricanes hit in the hot steamy months and extra heat may not be good.
Why use all that Culk to seal small seems? When the box itself isn't a sealed box. The lid, the doors, etc not of that is water sealed and can't be for functional reasons
I agree that the shed is not perfectly “airtight” sealed. The goal was to seal up lower points of entry so that animals, rodents large insects or ants would have a much harder time getting into the shed when snooping around the shed from the ground level. When I test ran the generator in June to charge the battery, and just keep things limber, the only thing in the shed were a few spiders and their victims. Trying to keep out chewing critters or nesting, bees or wasps are the top priority.
Yeah, you probably should have flipped your design 180 degrees, so you're not exhausting fumes into your house window! Texas ingenuity!
Lol...yeah it may look that way. That's not my house, that's my shed in the very back of the yard. It may be confusing since everything is bigger in Texas. Thanks for checking out the video.
The follow up shed performance video shows the exhaust exit in detail behind the shed. th-cam.com/video/luAWRXmicG4/w-d-xo.html
Very nice build. But you know the law of averages. After going through all that work, you will never need it. However, had you not did all this, your power would've shut down within a couple days for some reason. Kinda like all the insurance we buy.
Thanks for the kind words. Yep, I approached this project from a risk management (insurance) perspective. Unlike 'soft' insurance where you are out assets (cash) if you never file a claim, in this case, regardless of ever needing to use the shed/generator for an emergency, I still always have 'hard' assets in the form of the generator, cables, shed storage. Basically, there are certain types of insurance where you need to self-insure with food, protection, communication and energy. Especially in more zombie-like scenarios where 'no one is coming' to help. While a low probability event, it's is still good to have an insurance plan in place. No different than having home owners insurance where the probability of fire, flood, tornado is very low. Yet most people still have it. Interesting how most folks have insurance to protect their stuff and estate but don't have a plan to protect their own survival in atypical circumstances. No high school gymnasium cot or FEMA camp for my family.
Well, just two weeks after your kind comment, sure enough, Austin was pounded with 2-day ice storm that included a midnight freezing thunderstorm. We have been without power for 2.5 days and most likely won't have it again until Saturday. (total of 4-5 days)
The generator is nice and dry and the shed is working like a charm. I have not ordered a temp cap switch yet as I have to determine if I need a open or close switch depending how my low oil sensor is rigged up. Now, for the massive tree cleanup. Even folks like me that keep our trees well pruned still lost lots of big limbs. The freezing thunderstorm what did the trees in.
@@akoporc Well it turns out you sure did the right thing. And what a sweet setup, nice job. You guys down there have been getting hit with some awful ice the last 2 or 3 years I see. Up here in CO mostly just snow, so we normally don't deal with those ice storms. I just retired and have yet to collect on any insurance, didn't need to. When I was growing up my Dad owned a big lumberyard that covered a large area. His insurance was so high he just got sick of paying all that money out and canceled it. A week later a tornado came through and wiped out half the buildings. But you shouldn't need a temp cap switch now with the colder temps? And I'm sure you can sleep better knowing you have the insurance motor to keep you warm and toasty.
I was trying to be cheap and get a smaller shed, but I have a benchmark 11k / 9k generator, so a larger shed would give me alot more space to work with... no point in spending 250 for a shed that you can't close the doors with the cords on eh
Consider that using the generator in the shed may be a rare occurrence. So extra the room could also be used to store other. (cables, tools, soil, etc)
The only thing that I didn't like was the location, I noticed you really have that exhaust pointed right close to the corner of the house and the fence. The sound must really reverberate in that corner. I noticed you didn't show us how it sounded when you were done.
For performance results, watch this follow up: th-cam.com/video/luAWRXmicG4/w-d-xo.html
The location is in the furthest corner for my and my 3 neighbors' yards. The "house" that you are referring to is my shed which acts like a giant muffler by having the sound be absorbed by the fence ally way behind the shed.
@akoporc thank you for the quick response, I didn't realize you had a space behind the shed. It looked from this video that it was a pretty closed corner. Not as bad as I thought.
@akoporc if you have natural gas that's acceptable you might want to consider running a gas line to it. That way you don't have to worry about getting the propane tank filled.
What about back pressure on the gen from the exhaust?
Extending the exhaust pipe, a few feet at the same diameter, should not create back pressure. My understanding is that when you use much longer pipe and route it vertically with 90 degree angle fitting and/or using a muffler at the end of any exhaust extension, that could change the back pressure and engine tuning.
For performance results, watch this follow up: th-cam.com/video/luAWRXmicG4/w-d-xo.html
Great shed I would pay you to build me one I don’t have the tools let me know if you interested
I'm sorry shed. It still must be loud.
It's the exhaust that makes the noise, not so much the generator.
Check the performance vid. Only a few decibels louder than an HVAC condenser.