This is what I used on my 12,000 watt generator, was worth every penny I paid, and it cut noise output by better than 50%. It sits on a concrete pad I poured specifically for the generator, with a piece of rubber on top of the slab (made from an old pickup truck bed liner. I built a roof over the generator out of corrugated fiberglass roofing material that is attached to two pieces of 2 X 2 tap coned to the building with a angle cut 2 X 2 attached to the free side of the roof back on a 45 degree angle to the building attached again using tap con’s. I also bolted the generator frame to the slab with 2 - 1” EMT conduit securing brackets, w lead shields into the concrete using security bolts. (Making it harder for someone to steal.) To further lesson noise emitted I attached 1” rigid foam board to a couple pieces of exterior grade plywood and made a free standing “L” Shaped wall 4’ high for both sides of the generator open to the yard, which I can place about 3’ away from the generator as a noise shield. The generator is placed in a corner of the house, so two sides are facing towards the block wall. Located about 75’ from the road. When running at full load the generator cannot be heard from the road. In a SHTF situation you need to make your generator as inconspicuous as possible as you do not want to attract thieves. It’s also a good idea to place a person as a sentinel who is armed standing guard in the event someone comes skulking around. I’ve made it almost impossible to steal it having bolted it to the slab, the generator also weighs in at 217 pounds so it would take two guys to lift it into the back of a pickup, after somehow removing the bolts securing it to the concrete slab. I’m contemplating adding a box fan as supplemental cooling. gensilencer.com/
You did a great job on this video. All these arm chair quarter backs with their comments only have the ability to make the comments because you took the initiative to do the project. Nice job. Thank you
Agreed, great idea and very thorough video. I'm looking to make an exhaust extender for my home generator, but I'm thinking I need to redesign after this video (I suspect I need a bigger bore for my pipes)
Hi Adam, thanks for taking the time to make and share the video. I have also made portable generator extensions and wanted to pass on my experiences. Connecting a solid pipe directly to the generator muffler has always failed for me due to vibration and metal fatigue. The pipe connecting to the muffler must be a flexible type and as light as possible. When the engine is running, there is considerable movement of the engine due to it being a large single cylinder. The flexible pipes I have found the best are the types used in front wheel drive cars, that goes between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. That silicone gasket maker has a maximum temperature rating of 600 degrees Fahrenheit but, with the engine running under load, I have seen the muffler reach 1,000 (glowing red) degrees with the engine under heavy load. I would instead, file the floor flange and muffler connection flat so they don't leak or, purchase some automotive exhaust gasket material and make my own. I would also recommend leaving the spark arrestor out of a modified exhaust system since the added pipe can easily add back pressure, reducing engine power.
i was just out the door to HD .. i was thinking about these possible vibration issues. my gene will be living her life inside my mobile detail trailer, im going with the lightest possible extended pipe to run out the side wall. thanks for this post. it certified my thoughts exactly . cheers
Another thing you might not know about. I do fire suppression in commercial buildings and they make a caulk that is called fire stop or some say fire caulk and it has a very high temperature rating and it would actually be a good sealant for joints like your exhaust flexible pipe. It has to get up to close to a thousand degrees before it degrades and even still we'll seal I used it personally on a joint on my wood stove flu pipe and it's awesome 😎
Great job. However, I would caution users to make the rigid pipe portion as short as humanly possible. If you extend the slender exhaust from the muffler any appreciable distance, it will create non-trivial back pressure if the diameter of the pipe is not vastly increased. I do not have the software necessary to simulate it, so I arbitrarily used a 2 in flexible exhaust repair section, then transition to a 4-in semi rigid aluminum dryer duct. You may wish to use an insulated furnace pipe thimble, when your pipe passes through your structure. Keep up the great work!
Real nice job on the shed build. I just came across your channel, so that’s the reason for the late response. Quite a few of the questions asked we’re about adding a muffler to the exhaust pipe that you fabricated. Mufflers are available made specifically for generators, as opposed to using a auto muffler. While a muffler will help with reducing the sound, a significant amount of the sound actually emanates from the vibration when the generator is placed on a hard surface. A rubber mat of some type would help significantly in that respect. Hopefully with these two additions it might just keep the grumpy neighbors happy.
I like the way you made that part to attach to the exhaust flange. But you may want to keep in mind that your generator will be vibrating, and that long piece of pipe will also be vibrating. The flexible pipe will be a better option for you, because the long pipe will put stress on the connection that you just made, and break something on the generator, because the pipe is not the weakest link in that chain. That is why there are rubber motor mounts on this generator, and on most vehicles, there are flexible couplings on the exhaust that allow the engine to flex/vibrate and the exhaust to flex on its own. So only have a 2-3 inch piece of hard pipe, then use your flexible hose/pipe. Also, don't forget to use a piece of metal or some other piece of fire proof material where the exhaust exits the dog house wall.
Great tip. When you’re finished with the gasket maker, remove a quarter inch or so out of the nipple and fill the void with Vaseline then put the top on. That’ll keep it fresh for a long time.
I used the same flange for a Predator generator. To avoid cracking the flange from the vibration, I had to use pipe hangers to hold an support the pipe an extra muffler to quiet unit. An wrapped entire pipe an muffler in header wrapping.
Great video! Only comment I'd suggest drilling you holes prior to cutting the floor flange so you have more material for clamping force so it doesn't move around as much while drilling.
Hello my friend, I read that one of the viewers before me said this was a brilliant video. I agree you did a great job of bringing this to the public. Stay thirsty my friend
Thank you for this video lesson Adam. I purchased an exhaust extension for my Firman tri fuel generator, but it was not sturdy or long enough for my purpose. I made use of the fitting (purchased on Amazon) that fit perfectly on the exhaust outlet by threading it and using an adapter to go from 3/4 inch to 1 inch black pipe. The rest is still a work in progress but i have a plan :-)
The flex isn't optional. You MUST use the flex on the exhaust. All of the vibration from the engine running, will eventually crack and damage your muffler/flange.
Inspiring idea to more safely store a generator in my garage, and use from inside location. Will purchase 240 vac Champion Inverter Generator with CO protection, for being good miles for my dollars. Thanks
Why do you need an exhaust extension? Won't the exhaust go out of the box with the fan? The CO will just go out the vent wouldn't it? Am I missing something?
The pipe has a significant weight and a long lever, the engine oscillates during operation, and as a result the weld on the exhaust pipe is subjected to extreme loads. In practice: How long can the weld seam withstand this load without tearing? I believe a flexible connection at the exhaust reduces the stress considerably.
It is possible yes. Now, if you use just a solid piece of galvanized steel like I am, it is going to get very heavy the longer it is and can cause stress to where it is connected to the muffler and potentially to the muffler itself. If that is the way you want to go then you will need to figure out some way to support the weight of that pipe that is not flammable. If you want to put a long galvanized flex tube on it like I discuss at the end of the video, they do sell much longer ones on amazon (Walker (40002) 1-1/2" Diameter - 25' Long Galvanized Flex Tube). This would be much lighter. So really just depends on what you are envisioning. Hope this helps!
Stress on the welds on the muffler, and the cylinder head itself. Weight is bad. Don't use more than a 4 or so inches of iron pipe, best to go with a flex pipe that slides over 2 inches of iron pipe for longer runs.
Hey Chris, yes I agree, at the end of the video I show a shorter version of that exact flex pipe that you linked and how to connect it due to the weight of the steel pipe being too much if it can't be supported. As you said, it can get VERY heavy. Thanks for watching!
Did you know galvanized metal gives off cyanide gas when heated? A good plan would to only cut/grind/drill/weld it in a very well ventilated space (say outside) or wear a breathing aparatus, or use gasline "black iron" pipe/fittings instead. Also, have you ever noticed exhaust components are light weight thin wall metal? Light weight metal components heat up and cool down quicker than their thick cousins (who else has a thick cousin?) with less tendancy for deformation, that "quickness" would be the reason for the "ping ping ping" one hears upon shutting down an engine. Tech tip for drilling metal, run the drill as slow as possible, high speed is your enemy when drilling metal. Great video, thanks for sharing.
First, galvanized does not give off 'cyanide fumes'. It DOES give off zinc oxide fumes, which can cause metal fume fever. Metal fume fever is an immune-response condition that goes away in a day or two as your body absorbs the zinc.
Excellent video. Thanks. A question: would it be ok to put another gasket between the spark arrestor plate and the muffler plate? It seems to me that that would be a leak danger with the bare metals facing.
It not being permanent was an important factor to me as well when coming up with what I was going to do. I am glad you liked it. Thank you for the feedback!
The generator vibration is hard on the connections much better to use a 4 inch nipple and the flex tubing you're support at the wall only makes it worse as any up vibration is stopping at the wall also at the wall you should have a fire stop a piece of galvanized steel with a hole for the pipe and 1 inch of clearance all around the pipe and any combustible material
Hi, your advice on connecting wire to T1 for charging battery works great, thanks. Now Two wire setup. I do have one wire in J1 #10 and in J 2 # 18, in dealer menu program YES to two wire program. When l take those two wire together generator will no start, not working. I am so frustrated with this and l hope you can give me some advice to get this working. Again, many thanks George
5:00 time. Right. Glasses (i use wrap around ones, sealing all) and gloves, AND a toque, over the ears, as well. shop jacket with good collar, too. GOOD FOR YOU, SIR......nice touch, that floor flange, good creative analyzing !!
I did as you explained and exit my exhaust out of the shed. MY CO2 SENSOR KEEPS TRIPING AND SHUT DOWN UNIT. HAVE TWO BOX FANS ACCROSS UNIT. ANY SUGGESTIONS.
Nice Job. BUT you should have used a larger diameter pipe, bc exhaust temp & pressure will need more room/time to flow out & expand, then to cool down (reducing back pressure)
Would I need to put Teflon tape or some other thread sealant on the pipe threads were it threads into the adapter? Would there be any advantage to use a thread increaser to make the pipe larger? Would that reduce the back pressure from the pipe/tubing? What sort of muffler would I use to achieve the best, in your opinion, performance and quieting of the exhaust system? Would it do me any good to mount the muffler inside the enclosure, with it's exhaust port extended to outside the shed, to reduce the sounds coming from the muffler shell? What would you think is the best way to protect the generator from theft?
So this is the correct way to do it 🤙, I ripped exhaust pipe and muffler off a old Toyota I had sitting in my yard worked good nuff lol, this is much better
What about air intake when you have the generator in a shed? A typical wood shed will have small vents in the roof gables, is this sufficient to allow enough air flow for the generator to run properly?
If the exhaust is routed outside, there should be enough suction to bring in fresh air for the engine to run, but it might not be enough to keep it cool.
Very good video. Beats spending hours to maybe find someone who made an adapter on Ebay costing s small fortune. One comment about your sealant. The Permatex Max Temperature Gasket Maker is only good up to 750°F. The Permatex Muffler & Tailpipe Sealer is good up to 2000°F
Why not put an elbow on the exterior of the pipe to point downwards preventing rain from entering? Cap it to prevent bugs from nesting inside with a screen on the attachment side of the elbow opening or the elbow opening itself facing downward. A screen around the wall exit point would help too. Create a flange on the wall interior for the pipe to exit through. We have a lot of wasps in my area and that open pipe without a screen would be an invitation for them to nest in.
How long this pipe could be without damaging the generator or compromising the generator performance? Thinking of installing the exhaust on the roof shed...
Hey Dave, thank you very much for your kind words! I am really glad that you enjoyed it and hope it was able to help you. I definitely enjoyed this project. Thank you for watching!
Not that I am aware of. Not that something doesn't exist. I used the floor flange just because it made installing the pipe so easy. You could go without grinding it down though. I did it to give it a more finished look but it should work the same without cutting it down. Thank you for the feedback!
Great video👍. Two questions. 1- aside from esthetics , was there any reason to trim the excess from the outside of the flange ? 2- Could this new exhaust port be a location for an external muffler ??
Hey Paul, no I just trimmed it to make have a more finished look to it. It doesn't affect the performance at all. I have seen people add a muffler to their generators, I would definitely make sure it was fully supported by the frame though if that was to be added. Thank you very much for the feedback and I hope I answered your questions!
what if the generator does not have a floor flange on it? the generator I have is a hyundai6250 and it just has an exhaust pipe sticking out with no flange. There is a screw that goes in through the bottom of this 1" pipe that is sticking out for the exhaust and that attaches the spark arrester inside. The only thing I can think of is directly clamping a flex hose to it...thoughts?
It’s the same size as the exhaust outlet and a straight fairly short pipe, with a good connection there should be little back pressure if any added to really affect performance. There would be an issue if you went smaller than the existing exhaust. But if you want to increase it then by all means. Thanks for the feedback.
Have you had any communications with FIRMAN about this product. I recently was advised by FIRMAN that extending the exhaust pipe or installing the Generator in an enclosure would VOID my warranty. Any advise on this?
Adding a muffler is about the only way I know of that I have seen people do to quiet it other than putting it in a shed or enclosure. From what I have seen the mufflers do quiet them down but not to the level I expected. But any bit helps I suppose! Thank you for the feedback!
Running your home backup portable Gen inside a properly vented Wooden Yard Shed of around 8x10' is ideal. The wood is better at dampening sound vs metal shed. Mine is barely heard from porch 10' away & cannot be heard inside my home or barely by neighbors. Sounds like a lawnmower 10 houses away. Only trick is to vent out exhaust & intake fresh cool air low & thermostat controlled attic exhaust fan removes engine heat higher up towards Gable. Shed is only 30% occupied by Gen - remainder of space for garden supplies yard tools etc.
@@psalm2forliberty577 good. I am planning/thinking about the shed 'trick'. Maybe i'll just saw vent holes, under the side gables, (where soffit would go) and let nature clear the inside air. Vent xhaust out pipe through roof.
@@petersack5074 The gable vent I use is sold at Lowe's / HD and has an optional 'blow open' hinged auto louver grate that air pushes open. Has inline thermostat I leave at 80 degrees. Just plug into Gens 120v outlet. On exhaust its simpler / more direct to just shunt Exhaust stream out thru wall. I built a small passageway box of 2x8 that Gen Exhaust muffler sits hard against. Foamrubber weatherstrip cushions where they meet. On shed wall I mounted a Lowes dryer vent its aluminum duct is about 6" long & sits within 1/2" of muffler edge, close enough that 95%+ of exhaust goes straight out. This dryer vent flips open too. It all works well & has for 300 hours + / 12 years. If we have a summertime August 100 degree outage I can optionally prop door open - at the cost of more noise. Door shut its as quiet as any of my neighbors "fancy $10,000 enclosure whole house Gens" Plus mine consumes 1/3 to 1/2 their propane. Hope that helps out a bit.
My Firman exhaust has two bolts and 3/4" floor flange as too large to drill the holes in. I was wondering if using a 2"ID sch. 40 pipe to butt up against the exhaust might work? The opening in the grill work outside the spark arrester is 2 3/8 ". Any ideas?
Not sure if that high temp gasket seal is meant for exhaust manifolds. It may burn away eventually. I think its meant for intake manifolds and valve heads. I would use header gasket seal. You will have better luck. Permatex 81878 ultra copper max header sealer on Amazon.
Hey, it’s Permatex 81878. That’s what I have linked in the description as it is a much better sealer than originally used. It has held up really well. Thanks for highlighting this!
Amazing idea, I am looking for a generator to run in the suburbs. What make and model is yours? Do you think it’s possible to run this in a 3 car garage with this exhaust system through an exterior wall?
I modified my exhaust with a removable stack. Nothing fancy, a stub and five foot thin wall fence pipe held together with two tap screws. The bottom of the tall piece just touches the ground and is not capped. Makes big difference in noise level.
Wow that’s a expensive piece of equipment to walk off! Sorry to hear that! I will say that I personally would not count on this to fully get all of the exhaust out. I still wouldn’t want to run the generator in an area that people are or close to any doors. I made this to be able to exhaust my generator out of a generator shed.
sir did you find no issue with burning valves by adding this extention I have a diesel 5kw generator and I'm need to allow the exhaust to exit through a hole in wall. so if I could have feedback on your prolonged use with this extention I would appreciate it
Maybe I missed you speaking about it but that looks like galvanized pipe. If that pipe gets hot enough you can burn off the galvanization and release poisonous fumes.
If I was going to make a genshed I would run the exhaust out a 10' high stack with a rain cap. Probably want a low point in the pipe with a drain hole in case some rain gets in. Rain caps can be a little aggravating going tinktinktink but if it's a small diameter pipe and the generator is running wide open it shouldn't rattle. I'm thinking if the exhaust is exiting straight up it will be quieter
Geo: take apart an old microwave oven, and salvage 2, 2 inch round magnets. Got several laying around, some behind grinder and shop chop saw.......fatal metal 'attraction' ha ha
Pretty cool ideas. Can you show us this generator shed that your making? Looks like I might be able to add a muffler / silencer to quiet the beast generator from your contraption. Thanks.
If you are not planning on removing the pipe from the flange very often and want to be sure that absolutely zero exhaust can get through the threads then yes you would want to seal the threads.
I would not just trust this to get everything out. This is not a way to allow someone to run a generator in a garage for example. Generators should never be running in a place that people are. I made mine to get the majority of the exhaust and therefore heat out of the generator shed that my generator sits in. Hope this answered your question.
Is it actually necessary to grind the flange down to shape of the spark arrestor? Or could one simply trace as you did, make the bolt holes, bit skip the grinding. I don't have a grinder
@@sylviaisgod6947 That is so unethical. I cannot believe you would suggest purchasing a tool knowing you are going to return it after using it and lying about it. Shame on you dude.
because of vibration galvanized pipe is too heavy. i found a scooter exaust pipe that works bolt on. Have to research for your application. use flex tubing to complete.
Looks like you did a great job and I love it. But I would have made a gasket that was made from high temperature. Fiber material I don't know what it's called, not asbestos but something like that other than the silicone sealants. Because the silicone sealant will not take the heat in the long run, it will get hard and brittle and powdery and leak and also unrelated RTV sealant that turns into rubber isn't even good for water applications like thermostat, housings and such. I like the brown or the black permatex seems to be good stuff
This is what I used on my 12,000 watt generator, was worth every penny I paid, and it cut noise output by better than 50%. It sits on a concrete pad I poured specifically for the generator, with a piece of rubber on top of the slab (made from an old pickup truck bed liner. I built a roof over the generator out of corrugated fiberglass roofing material that is attached to two pieces of 2 X 2 tap coned to the building with a angle cut 2 X 2 attached to the free side of the roof back on a 45 degree angle to the building attached again using tap con’s. I also bolted the generator frame to the slab with 2 - 1” EMT conduit securing brackets, w lead shields into the concrete using security bolts. (Making it harder for someone to steal.)
To further lesson noise emitted I attached 1” rigid foam board to a couple pieces of exterior grade plywood and made a free standing “L” Shaped wall 4’ high for both sides of the generator open to the yard, which I can place about 3’ away from the generator as a noise shield. The generator is placed in a corner of the house, so two sides are facing towards the block wall. Located about 75’ from the road. When running at full load the generator cannot be heard from the road. In a SHTF situation you need to make your generator as inconspicuous as possible as you do not want to attract thieves. It’s also a good idea to place a person as a sentinel who is armed standing guard in the event someone comes skulking around.
I’ve made it almost impossible to steal it having bolted it to the slab, the generator also weighs in at 217 pounds so it would take two guys to lift it into the back of a pickup, after somehow removing the bolts securing it to the concrete slab.
I’m contemplating adding a box fan as supplemental cooling.
gensilencer.com/
You did a great job on this video. All these arm chair quarter backs with their comments only have the ability to make the comments because you took the initiative to do the project. Nice job. Thank you
Agreed, great idea and very thorough video. I'm looking to make an exhaust extender for my home generator, but I'm thinking I need to redesign after this video (I suspect I need a bigger bore for my pipes)
Great job and here's a tip, drill your flange holes first so there is plenty to clamp on to, then cut it. It will be a lot easier.
That’s a good tip! Thanks for that and the feedback.
That was my first thought too 🤣. But still worked in the end. 🤷🏼♂️
And if you screw up the holes, you didn’t waste all that time grinding.
Hi Adam, thanks for taking the time to make and share the video. I have also made portable generator extensions and wanted to pass on my experiences. Connecting a solid pipe directly to the generator muffler has always failed for me due to vibration and metal fatigue. The pipe connecting to the muffler must be a flexible type and as light as possible. When the engine is running, there is considerable movement of the engine due to it being a large single cylinder. The flexible pipes I have found the best are the types used in front wheel drive cars, that goes between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe.
That silicone gasket maker has a maximum temperature rating of 600 degrees Fahrenheit but, with the engine running under load, I have seen the muffler reach 1,000 (glowing red) degrees with the engine under heavy load. I would instead, file the floor flange and muffler connection flat so they don't leak or, purchase some automotive exhaust gasket material and make my own.
I would also recommend leaving the spark arrestor out of a modified exhaust system since the added pipe can easily add back pressure, reducing engine power.
i was just out the door to HD .. i was thinking about these possible vibration issues. my gene will be living her life inside my mobile detail trailer, im going with the lightest possible extended pipe to run out the side wall. thanks for this post. it certified my thoughts exactly . cheers
Too much info, this works perfectly.
@@urindnil The solid pipe idea will work for a while so, if you don't run your generator that often, you can get by with it.
The extension should be a larger diameter than the original exhaust. Why does everyone miss that important point?
@@JetFire9 I absolutely agree!
Another thing you might not know about. I do fire suppression in commercial buildings and they make a caulk that is called fire stop or some say fire caulk and it has a very high temperature rating and it would actually be a good sealant for joints like your exhaust flexible pipe. It has to get up to close to a thousand degrees before it degrades and even still we'll seal I used it personally on a joint on my wood stove flu pipe and it's awesome 😎
good to know
Great job. However, I would caution users to make the rigid pipe portion as short as humanly possible. If you extend the slender exhaust from the muffler any appreciable distance, it will create non-trivial back pressure if the diameter of the pipe is not vastly increased. I do not have the software necessary to simulate it, so I arbitrarily used a 2 in flexible exhaust repair section, then transition to a 4-in semi rigid aluminum dryer duct. You may wish to use an insulated furnace pipe thimble, when your pipe passes through your structure. Keep up the great work!
this is what I was worried about!
You are exactly correct. The same holds true for drag pipes on a motorcycle.
Real nice job on the shed build. I just came across your channel, so that’s the reason for the late response. Quite a few of the questions asked we’re about adding a muffler to the exhaust pipe that you fabricated. Mufflers are available made specifically for generators, as opposed to using a auto muffler. While a muffler will help with reducing the sound, a significant amount of the sound actually emanates from the vibration when the generator is placed on a hard surface. A rubber mat of some type would help significantly in that respect. Hopefully with these two additions it might just keep the grumpy neighbors happy.
Thanks for the tips! Appreciate the feedback!
I like the way you made that part to attach to the exhaust flange. But you may want to keep in mind that your generator will be vibrating, and that long piece of pipe will also be vibrating. The flexible pipe will be a better option for you, because the long pipe will put stress on the connection that you just made, and break something on the generator, because the pipe is not the weakest link in that chain. That is why there are rubber motor mounts on this generator, and on most vehicles, there are flexible couplings on the exhaust that allow the engine to flex/vibrate and the exhaust to flex on its own. So only have a 2-3 inch piece of hard pipe, then use your flexible hose/pipe. Also, don't forget to use a piece of metal or some other piece of fire proof material where the exhaust exits the dog house wall.
Great tip. When you’re finished with the gasket maker, remove a quarter inch or so out of the nipple and fill the void with Vaseline then put the top on. That’ll keep it fresh for a long time.
Great solution , I am building a generator shed now and I will use your exhaust system idea .
Awesome! It has worked well for me thus far. Good luck and thanks for the feedback!
I used the same flange for a Predator generator. To avoid cracking the flange from the vibration, I had to use pipe hangers to hold an support the pipe an extra muffler to quiet unit. An wrapped entire pipe an muffler in header wrapping.
Great video! Only comment I'd suggest drilling you holes prior to cutting the floor flange so you have more material for clamping force so it doesn't move around as much while drilling.
Good tip! Thanks for the feedback!
Hello my friend, I read that one of the viewers before me said this was a brilliant video. I agree you did a great job of bringing this to the public. Stay thirsty my friend
Thank you sir! I really appreciate the feedback. Take care!
Is it possible to feed the exhaust pipe into a large container of water to make it quieter? Would there be back pressure issues?
Good job, I like that you can easily unscrew the pipe.
It was a must for me. Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you for this video lesson Adam. I purchased an exhaust extension for my Firman tri fuel generator, but it was not sturdy or long enough for my purpose. I made use of the fitting (purchased on Amazon) that fit perfectly on the exhaust outlet by threading it and using an adapter to go from 3/4 inch to 1 inch black pipe. The rest is still a work in progress but i have a plan :-)
The flex isn't optional. You MUST use the flex on the exhaust. All of the vibration from the engine running, will eventually crack and damage your muffler/flange.
Specially with all the vibration, the flex would definitely be the ticket.
Inspiring idea to more safely store a generator in my garage, and use from inside location. Will purchase 240 vac Champion Inverter Generator with CO protection, for being good miles for my dollars. Thanks
Support the end with grappling iron.
Why do you need an exhaust extension? Won't the exhaust go out of the box with the fan? The CO will just go out the vent wouldn't it? Am I missing something?
I do what I want
The pipe has a significant weight and a long lever, the engine oscillates during operation,
and as a result the weld on the exhaust pipe is subjected to extreme loads.
In practice: How long can the weld seam withstand this load without tearing?
I believe a flexible connection at the exhaust reduces the stress considerably.
Thumbs up 👍 as others have said Generators vibrates and short is way better for longevity.
This is the easiest one I have seen. Thank you. Is it possible to attach a longer pipe without any issues?
It is possible yes. Now, if you use just a solid piece of galvanized steel like I am, it is going to get very heavy the longer it is and can cause stress to where it is connected to the muffler and potentially to the muffler itself. If that is the way you want to go then you will need to figure out some way to support the weight of that pipe that is not flammable. If you want to put a long galvanized flex tube on it like I discuss at the end of the video, they do sell much longer ones on amazon (Walker (40002) 1-1/2" Diameter - 25' Long Galvanized Flex Tube). This would be much lighter. So really just depends on what you are envisioning. Hope this helps!
Stress on the welds on the muffler, and the cylinder head itself. Weight is bad. Don't use more than a 4 or so inches of iron pipe, best to go with a flex pipe that slides over 2 inches of iron pipe for longer runs.
my generator takes a 1" flex pipe, so I use this : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027IU9UY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1
Hey Chris, yes I agree, at the end of the video I show a shorter version of that exact flex pipe that you linked and how to connect it due to the weight of the steel pipe being too much if it can't be supported. As you said, it can get VERY heavy. Thanks for watching!
Did you know galvanized metal gives off cyanide gas when heated? A good plan would to only cut/grind/drill/weld it in a very well ventilated space (say outside) or wear a breathing aparatus, or use gasline "black iron" pipe/fittings instead. Also, have you ever noticed exhaust components are light weight thin wall metal? Light weight metal components heat up and cool down quicker than their thick cousins (who else has a thick cousin?) with less tendancy for deformation, that "quickness" would be the reason for the "ping ping ping" one hears upon shutting down an engine. Tech tip for drilling metal, run the drill as slow as possible, high speed is your enemy when drilling metal. Great video, thanks for sharing.
First, galvanized does not give off 'cyanide fumes'. It DOES give off zinc oxide fumes, which can cause metal fume fever. Metal fume fever is an immune-response condition that goes away in a day or two as your body absorbs the zinc.
I am now a subscriber. I enjoy your videos and have learned and been inspired by them. Thank you.
Excellent idea. I'm b
Putting my champion 4550-3450 gas generator in my van while powering up my travel trailer
Excellent video. Thanks. A question: would it be ok to put another gasket between the spark arrestor plate and the muffler plate? It seems to me that that would be a leak danger with the bare metals facing.
very nice job on the adapter. Pro tip, it would help if you drilled the holes first it would be a little safer due to more meat to hold on to.
Hi, could you have just drilled new holes in the floor flange and not bothered to cut out the shape?
Thanks a lot. Great video and well explained 👏👍
Great idea. I like how it’s not permanent. Thank you
It not being permanent was an important factor to me as well when coming up with what I was going to do. I am glad you liked it. Thank you for the feedback!
The generator vibration is hard on the connections much better to use a 4 inch nipple and the flex tubing you're support at the wall only makes it worse as any up vibration is stopping at the wall also at the wall you should have a fire stop a piece of galvanized steel with a hole for the pipe and 1 inch of clearance all around the pipe and any combustible material
I have used it a good bit with no issues and nothing has set on fire or blown up. Weird.
Hi, your advice on connecting wire to T1 for charging battery works great, thanks.
Now Two wire setup. I do have one wire in J1 #10 and in J 2 # 18, in dealer menu program YES to two wire program. When l take those two wire together generator will no start, not working.
I am so frustrated with this and l hope you can give me some advice to get this working.
Again, many thanks George
Hello and thanks for the video.. I only have one question: what size is the flex tube that goes over the galvanized one inch pipe?
Thank you.... Simple, well done, effective and informative. Great video
Nice work 👍
By the looks of it you don’t even have to cut and trim that flange, there seems to be enough room around the exhaust outlet ?
Thanks for the video. What type of blade did you use in your cut-off saw/grinder?
5:00 time. Right. Glasses (i use wrap around ones, sealing all) and gloves, AND a toque, over the ears, as well. shop jacket with good collar, too. GOOD FOR YOU, SIR......nice touch, that floor flange, good creative analyzing !!
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Will the exhaust leak around those threads where the pipe enters the floor flange?
Should be air tight, better than most clamp slip fits.
A small leak shouldn't matter unless you are using the generator inside.
Nice job. Are you making a video on how you are putting together your shed as well?
I did as you explained and exit my exhaust out of the shed. MY CO2 SENSOR KEEPS TRIPING AND SHUT DOWN UNIT. HAVE TWO BOX FANS ACCROSS UNIT. ANY SUGGESTIONS.
Great, simple (and brilliant) solution!
Thank you for sharing and caring! Much more affordable than the kits!
Nice Job. BUT you should have used a larger diameter pipe, bc exhaust temp & pressure will need more room/time to flow out & expand, then to cool down (reducing back pressure)
Would I need to put Teflon tape or some other thread sealant on the pipe threads were it threads into the adapter?
Would there be any advantage to use a thread increaser to make the pipe larger? Would that reduce the back pressure from the pipe/tubing?
What sort of muffler would I use to achieve the best, in your opinion, performance and quieting of the exhaust system?
Would it do me any good to mount the muffler inside the enclosure, with it's exhaust port extended to outside the shed, to reduce the sounds coming from the muffler shell?
What would you think is the best way to protect the generator from theft?
Nicely done. Simple and fairly cheap. Thanks for sharing. 👍 😊
So this is the correct way to do it 🤙, I ripped exhaust pipe and muffler off a old Toyota I had sitting in my yard worked good nuff lol, this is much better
What about air intake when you have the generator in a shed? A typical wood shed will have small vents in the roof gables, is this sufficient to allow enough air flow for the generator to run properly?
If the exhaust is routed outside, there should be enough suction to bring in fresh air for the engine to run, but it might not be enough to keep it cool.
Very good video. Beats spending hours to maybe find someone who made an adapter on Ebay costing s small fortune. One comment about your sealant. The Permatex Max Temperature Gasket Maker is only good up to 750°F. The Permatex Muffler & Tailpipe Sealer is good up to 2000°F
Why not put an elbow on the exterior of the pipe to point downwards preventing rain from entering? Cap it to prevent bugs from nesting inside with a screen on the attachment side of the elbow opening or the elbow opening itself facing downward.
A screen around the wall exit point would help too. Create a flange on the wall interior for the pipe to exit through. We have a lot of wasps in my area and that open pipe without a screen would be an invitation for them to nest in.
Thanks for the vid. Nice to know it’s possible and can be done safely.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback!
How long this pipe could be without damaging the generator or compromising the generator performance? Thinking of installing the exhaust on the roof shed...
well done. Any idea how far you can throw the exhaust? This generator was put near the house and the exhaust points towards the house. Thanks much
Thank you for making this video. Your solutions were brilliant...yet straightforward and simple. Well done! Cheers!
Hey Dave, thank you very much for your kind words! I am really glad that you enjoyed it and hope it was able to help you. I definitely enjoyed this project. Thank you for watching!
Great video. Not having a grinder or any other metal cutting tool, is there any other kind of flange (thinner) I could use for the template?
Not that I am aware of. Not that something doesn't exist. I used the floor flange just because it made installing the pipe so easy. You could go without grinding it down though. I did it to give it a more finished look but it should work the same without cutting it down. Thank you for the feedback!
What did you finally do to keep the muffler intact after hanging the piece of pipe on it, and how long did it take to break?
It hasn’t broken.
Great video👍. Two questions.
1- aside from esthetics , was there any reason to trim the excess from the outside of the flange ?
2- Could this new exhaust port be a location for an external muffler ??
Hey Paul, no I just trimmed it to make have a more finished look to it. It doesn't affect the performance at all. I have seen people add a muffler to their generators, I would definitely make sure it was fully supported by the frame though if that was to be added. Thank you very much for the feedback and I hope I answered your questions!
@@HowToHomeDIY Yes you did answer my questions, thanks for the reply, best regards👍.
SWEET. Thanks for making this video!
You’re welcome! Glad you liked it!
what if the generator does not have a floor flange on it? the generator I have is a hyundai6250 and it just has an exhaust pipe sticking out with no flange. There is a screw that goes in through the bottom of this 1" pipe that is sticking out for the exhaust and that attaches the spark arrester inside. The only thing I can think of is directly clamping a flex hose to it...thoughts?
This video was exactly what I needed! Thank you for posting this.
After installing the exhaust extension, is it possible to connect a muffler or sound reducing attachment?
Thanks for this. Shouldn't the pipe size be increased to 2 1/2 or 3 inches to reduce back pressure?
It’s the same size as the exhaust outlet and a straight fairly short pipe, with a good connection there should be little back pressure if any added to really affect performance. There would be an issue if you went smaller than the existing exhaust. But if you want to increase it then by all means. Thanks for the feedback.
Have you had any communications with FIRMAN about this product. I recently was advised by FIRMAN that extending the exhaust pipe or installing the Generator in an enclosure would VOID my warranty. Any advise on this?
Thank a lot for this video, you help me out. This is the idea that I was looking for. Thanks again. GBY
Excellent how to video!
Is there a problem with back pressure caused by the added length of the exhaust pipe?
Looks good. If using the flex tubing, rather than cutting the pipe, I'd just buy a shorter pipe to begin with. LOL
Certainly a good option! Thanks for the feedback!
3.4.21 Thanks for the video. Question How could one, by adding some kind of muffler make the generator more quieter.
Adding a muffler is about the only way I know of that I have seen people do to quiet it other than putting it in a shed or enclosure. From what I have seen the mufflers do quiet them down but not to the level I expected. But any bit helps I suppose! Thank you for the feedback!
Running your home backup portable Gen inside a properly vented Wooden Yard Shed of around 8x10' is ideal.
The wood is better at dampening sound vs metal shed.
Mine is barely heard from porch 10' away & cannot be heard inside my home or barely by neighbors.
Sounds like a lawnmower 10 houses away.
Only trick is to vent out exhaust & intake fresh cool air low & thermostat controlled attic exhaust fan removes engine heat higher up towards Gable.
Shed is only 30% occupied by Gen - remainder of space for garden supplies yard tools etc.
@@psalm2forliberty577 good. I am planning/thinking about the shed 'trick'. Maybe i'll just saw vent holes, under the side gables, (where soffit would go) and let nature clear the inside air. Vent xhaust out pipe through roof.
@@petersack5074
The gable vent I use is sold at Lowe's / HD and has an optional 'blow open' hinged auto louver grate that air pushes open. Has inline thermostat I leave at 80 degrees. Just plug into Gens 120v outlet.
On exhaust its simpler / more direct to just shunt Exhaust stream out thru wall. I built a small passageway box of 2x8 that Gen Exhaust muffler sits hard against. Foamrubber weatherstrip cushions where they meet.
On shed wall I mounted a Lowes dryer vent its aluminum duct is about 6" long & sits within 1/2" of muffler edge, close enough that 95%+ of exhaust goes straight out.
This dryer vent flips open too.
It all works well & has for 300 hours + / 12 years.
If we have a summertime August 100 degree outage I can optionally prop door open - at the cost of more noise.
Door shut its as quiet as any of my neighbors "fancy $10,000 enclosure whole house Gens"
Plus mine consumes 1/3 to 1/2 their propane.
Hope that helps out a bit.
@@psalm2forliberty577 sure does.... tanks for the ideas'
My Firman exhaust has two bolts and 3/4" floor flange as too large to drill the holes in. I was wondering if using a 2"ID sch. 40 pipe to butt up against the exhaust might work? The opening in the grill work outside the spark arrester is 2 3/8 ". Any ideas?
i would not reduce the 2 3/8" too 2" ID. Always increase exhaust flow not reduce
Not sure if that high temp gasket seal is meant for exhaust manifolds. It may burn away eventually. I think its meant for intake manifolds and valve heads. I would use header gasket seal. You will have better luck. Permatex 81878 ultra copper max header sealer on Amazon.
Hey, it’s Permatex 81878. That’s what I have linked in the description as it is a much better sealer than originally used. It has held up really well. Thanks for highlighting this!
@@HowToHomeDIY oops on the typo. Thanks for the correction!
I figured it’s what you meant. Thank you again!
Amazing idea, I am looking for a generator to run in the suburbs. What make and model is yours?
Do you think it’s possible to run this in a 3 car garage with this exhaust system through an exterior wall?
Don't forget to provide airflow for the heat given off by the engine. These are air cooled engines.
I modified my exhaust with a removable stack. Nothing fancy, a stub and five foot thin wall fence pipe held together with two tap screws. The bottom of the tall piece just touches the ground and is not capped. Makes big difference in noise level.
I love the exhaust idea. Have you ever used exhaust tape to wrap the piping?
Hey Jeff, I have not tried that.
Thank you for the video, now I can keep my generator inside the garage while running, last storm I left my previous gen it was stolen. A $3k winco!
Wow that’s a expensive piece of equipment to walk off! Sorry to hear that! I will say that I personally would not count on this to fully get all of the exhaust out. I still wouldn’t want to run the generator in an area that people are or close to any doors. I made this to be able to exhaust my generator out of a generator shed.
Excellent how to video! Well done!
Thank you buddy, excellent idea
You are welcome. Glad you liked it!
Nice job !Im going todo this on generator
sir did you find no issue with burning valves by adding this extention
I have a diesel 5kw generator and I'm need to allow the exhaust to exit through a hole in wall.
so if I could have feedback on your prolonged use with this extention I would appreciate it
Thus far no. But every generator and circumstance is different so of course I can’t guarantee anything.
It would be nice to hear the generator running with the pipe attached, just to see if it lowers the sound at all or gets red hot.
Does your muffler/tailpipe get red hot?
Will doing this affect your warranty?
Making any adaptation will void a warranty if it's detected
Great video! Thank You So Very Much for making and posting this Awesome video! it Realy helped me exhaust my genny. :)
Maybe I missed you speaking about it but that looks like galvanized pipe. If that pipe gets hot enough you can burn off the galvanization and release poisonous fumes.
Maybe you shouldn't breathe the exhaust fumes.
Great video, thank you for doing it.
Solid engineering, Great plan
Thanks for the feedback!
If I was going to make a genshed I would run the exhaust out a 10' high stack with a rain cap. Probably want a low point in the pipe with a drain hole in case some rain gets in. Rain caps can be a little aggravating going tinktinktink but if it's a small diameter pipe and the generator is running wide open it shouldn't rattle. I'm thinking if the exhaust is exiting straight up it will be quieter
Do you have a how-to Video for that cabinet behind you?
I always have an old harddrive magnet nearby just in case I get something in my eye. It has saved me a trip to the Dr. on more than one occasion.
Nice job too, btw!
I bet, I have heard others that have had good success with that as well. Eyes seem to be a magnet themselves for objects haha.
Thank you!
Geo: take apart an old microwave oven, and salvage 2, 2 inch round magnets. Got several laying around, some behind grinder and shop chop saw.......fatal metal 'attraction' ha ha
um,,, or just wear goggles
Brilliant idea man. Thanks for sharing!!!🔥
Absolutely! Thank you for the feedback! Glad you liked it.
Pretty cool ideas. Can you show us this generator shed that your making? Looks like I might be able to add a muffler / silencer to quiet the beast generator from your contraption. Thanks.
Hey, I have video of my shed on my channel if you want to go check it out.
Great video! I can stop pulling my hair out now, my exhaust issue is fixed!
Excellent and instructional video. Keep it up
Glad you liked it! Will do and thank you for the feedback!
Do you think this procedure could affect the warranty on a new generator? I just purchased a WGEN 12000/15000. Great job on this and the shed ideas!
It would depend on the conditions of the warranty to know more call the companies customer support to get more details about the warranty👍
@@bruhmoment798 Thanks Ill contact westing house.
Do you seal the pipe threads?
If you are not planning on removing the pipe from the flange very often and want to be sure that absolutely zero exhaust can get through the threads then yes you would want to seal the threads.
Could toxic fumes leak thru pipe joints or thru the continuous crack the length of the flex tube?
I would not just trust this to get everything out. This is not a way to allow someone to run a generator in a garage for example. Generators should never be running in a place that people are. I made mine to get the majority of the exhaust and therefore heat out of the generator shed that my generator sits in. Hope this answered your question.
Just wondering if it's absolutely necessary to cut down the floor flange?
No not absolutely necessary. I just wanted a cleaner look.
well thought out and a nice solution. Thanks for sharing!
Is it actually necessary to grind the flange down to shape of the spark arrestor? Or could one simply trace as you did, make the bolt holes, bit skip the grinding. I don't have a grinder
Hey Josh, yes, you could do that. It would still function.
You can buy a grinder at Harbor Freight for $12 with coupon, then return it when you're done, just say it broke. (It probably will anyway)
@@sylviaisgod6947 That is so unethical. I cannot believe you would suggest purchasing a tool knowing you are going to return it after using it and lying about it. Shame on you dude.
@@larrysmith7175 Well, you probably wouldn't want to hear about the parts I buy (such as PVC pipe) that I cut pieces off then return what's left.
because of vibration galvanized pipe is too heavy. i found a scooter exaust pipe that works bolt on. Have to research for your application. use flex tubing to complete.
How will you keep the mice and bugs out of you shed. I think the pupil will Vibrate and break your muffler.
Bugs I have screen over all of the openings and I spray it with insecticide. No mice issues. And so far nothing has broken.
Thanks for the video and nice job.
Nicely done!! I was thinking about doing this myself.
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
Good idea! Thanks.
Looks like you did a great job and I love it. But I would have made a gasket that was made from high temperature. Fiber material I don't know what it's called, not asbestos but something like that other than the silicone sealants. Because the silicone sealant will not take the heat in the long run, it will get hard and brittle and powdery and leak and also unrelated RTV sealant that turns into rubber isn't even good for water applications like thermostat, housings and such. I like the brown or the black permatex seems to be good stuff
Wow very good knowledge
I am glad you liked it! Thank you for your kind words!