Here's my take: I have absolutely nothing against relic'd instruments and think they look amazing when done well, but I myself don't have much interest in it as a player. I'm far more interested in it as an aspiring builder, just for the great techniques it probably fosters when learning how to do it. That said, here's a tale of two basses: One is a Conklin 7-string (licensed, Chinese made) that I bought off of Ebay around 2004 or so. The other is my Ibanez SR506M six-string, purchased new circa 2011 or 2012. Now, I've owned and played these basses for a long time. But guess what: The Ibanez looks a ton more "relic'd" than the Conklin. Why, because the Ibanez is my main bass and I've been playing it pretty much every day for a dozen years!!! There are parts of the neck where the nitro has practically worn off, a spot on the body where my fingernails have worn through the paint from slapping, and an overall dullness and "rubbed" quality to both the wood and the metal and the plastic. The Conklin? Still pretty pristine, few signs of wear, still shiny. So for me, the important part of a relic'd instrument is when it reminds you of how long you've been playing it! Just my two cents; totally cool with and respectful of other takes.
Exactly what you're saying happened to me when aging a bass bridge using the same process you described. Although I thought I had cleaned off the components well, 6 months later when I tried to adjust the bridge saddles the grub screws were frozen solid in the their holes and no matter what I did I could not break them free. Not to mention the Allen key hole was also corroded to the point that the Allen key just spun inside of it. In short....the bridge was ruined and needed to be replaced.
Most people miss that if you scrape off the finish from a guitar it will not handle water from neither rain or sweat. I would be a good idé to put a clear coat on after the aging is done.
I installed a cast bronze mortise lock in a distressed pair of dungeon style entry doors at a site that had an awesome set of distressed stairs which I'm told was processed with chains, and other objects. As I was finishing up the yuppie couple arrived in after being out of town. When they came in to see the new doors the wife was quite upset and said "everything looked beat up and trashed". I'm not sure what she thought of the steps, I thought they were pretty righteous and the guys who had done it were admirably good. Later I was told the door pair was $15,000 but never heard a number amount for the steps. Some people get it and some don't, it was amusing because they were paying for everything... I've not reliced anything but paying attention to where you're existing wear is (even light scratches) can show you where your focus might be. I've contemplated making fingerless abrasive gloves for people to use during practice to speed up the process. Thanks to your channel I see that people should start with my 180 gloves and slowly work up to the 400.
A little off topic for this video. I recently went down a rabbit hole after buying a pack of 3M sand paper marked 800 when the contents were P800. Grading conversion lists vary wildly. Have you seen or made a list of abrasives. same problem with pumice, micro mesh, etc. This may make a helpful video for your viewers.
Originally I was going to do a video on guitar building terms I can't stand and relic'd was one of them. I think artificially aged is more appropriate.
I'm not into relicing, and look after the metal parts of my guitars, oiling them as necessary to prevent corrosion. I have carried out resprays, body contouring etc., and lo and behold, my guitars look fabulous; naturally worn in, and personalised. Much better than a fake relic, which I'd probably do quite badly.
I do like some of the reliced guitars if its on the light-medium aging. I think the fender heavy relic custom shops look like trash. Many dont even look like realistic aging. I think the best is to either complete wear or light relic with some play time so it looks more natural
In my view the best way to age a guitar is.. are you ready? Ok. Play your guitar for at least 6gigs a week for at least 25years and before you can say Abracadabra, you have have yourself a real aged guitar.
@@sgt.gruhnn A guitar is a guitar. It's not about what it or you sound like. It's about what the guitar sounds like. Be it old or new. Looks have nothing to do with a good sounding guitar.
I admit I don't care for the relic trend; nonetheless, I don't begrudge those who like it--we're all musicians so it's all good. But for me, I'm of the opinion that honest player wear on any instrument should be earned not faked, wherein every historic scar/scratch/stain/etc. has an accompanying story to relate. The instrument had a real life to share if one learns to appreciate it.
I completely understand the concept of reliced guitars, but there is a world of difference between someone like Dr. Nitro of 8 Bomb Custom, who makes incredible facsimiles of vintage guitars and others that just end up with a guitar that looks like someone deliberately damaged a guitar, which, in reality, it simply is.
Thanks Chris but if you really want to put the guitar through the ringer and test it's roadworthy Ness you can do what what Eddie van Halen did and plug your guitar into an Amp for a, week let it feedback for a, week stress test the guitar by dragging it through a parking lot put hooks and chains on the guitar instead of normal guitar straps. And if you hate laqusr on the fretboard like Eddie did on his Kramer guitar or polyurathane on the fretboard you can just make sure you sweat profusely while playing it on stage so it cracks and wears off the finish you don't like then chip away at it like Eddie did and you will defenetely get the reliced look and don't forget you can drag the guitar body through a parking lot to wear off the paint too. Okay maybe that's extreme and maybe I am reacting to all the nonsense on you tube and Amazon over a freaking can of watco laquar clear and the word smithing of still calling that laqusr nitrocelulose laquar when it's not. same with minwax clear brushing laquar it's acrylic laqusr if it has Mek in it it's acrylic laquar just like the can of duplicolor perfect match car paint it might have variances in the formulations between manufactures of the different laquars whether minwax or watco or even deft but because it's acrylic laquar and not 1950s or 1960s laquar that's why it does not yellow anymore. Mohawk I am not sure of yet but for me I just want one company make my own grey flat color for recreating a grey or black primer seal coat then tiny my own base coat color using mica powder all from one company then do a gloss watco or deft clear coat even if I need to reduce it first but the nonsense of the internet and Amazon and Google makes it very confusing and the other reason I thinking of this is because the duplicolor perfect match automotive clear in the 8 ounce cans often will not cure right on a guitar body over the bssecoat and scratch filler primer due to the plastisizers in the clear which is meant for metal fenders and plastic bumpers and no way I am doing a 2 k polyurathane clear like spray max because you can't store the can once you push the red button. And 19 dollars for a, small spray can whether duplicolor or spray max seems like a not very cost effective option long term. Anyway thanks as always Chris but maybe it's time to help the rest of us figure out a way around all the nonsense of paint reformulations and compatability problems that are now coming up over painting a, simple guitar body.
I learned recently that Antonio Stradivari would age many of his newly built violins more than 300 years ago. Even 300 years ago, people "knew" that only old instruments sound good! Times change but people stay pretty much the same. Musicians seem particularly susceptible to snake oil for some reason.
Aging things is a trend that’s been around for at least 50 years that I know. It’s done with furniture, clothing; everything. Morality only comes into it because someone doesn’t like it. If you don’t like it don’t do it.
I am strongly against relic something brand new in order to look cool. Certainly you will not wish your 25 years old bride to look like 55, why not let your guitar age naturally and gracefully over time instead.
@@HighlineGuitars Not everyone consider a relic guitar is cool, if someone is 70+ years old, it is unlikely he is a new player, he could have played for 50+ years already.
If you hate buying relics bc you think it’s for posers or pretending to have made that wear yourself. I really hope you’ve never bought a used guitar. Bc that would be pretending to have created that wear yourself.
@@1man1guitarletsgo so intentional marks on a guitar are different from unintentional marks. So relicing is about intent? At the end of the day somebody else made the marks.
@@1man1guitarletsgo that if a new relic guitar makes you a poser then a used guitar with marks on it is the same. So anyone playing a used guitar would be a poser by the same logic that relic haters use.
@@jamesmarkham7489 I disagree. People who choose to buy brand new relics pay extra for someone to damage the guitar in advance. People buying used guitars pay less than list price, with mint condition examples fetching the highest prices, and badly worn ones commanding lower prices. Incidentally, by introducing the concept of the "poser", and then commenting on that concept, you've created a "straw man argument", which we shall ignore.
I actually did skip the video. I cannot stand the idea of relicing. Anyone with a rasp and some polyurethane could scrape up their guitar and then put a coat of finish on it. That and the fact that it is by and large seen as an "extra" is mind-blowing to me. Capitalism never ceases to amaze me when it comes to the depths of stupidity it can spawn. I liked the video anyway. Peace
I appreciate you being cool about this Chris, people get so butthurt over something they don't have to do if they don't want to! Great tips :)
Here's my take: I have absolutely nothing against relic'd instruments and think they look amazing when done well, but I myself don't have much interest in it as a player. I'm far more interested in it as an aspiring builder, just for the great techniques it probably fosters when learning how to do it. That said, here's a tale of two basses: One is a Conklin 7-string (licensed, Chinese made) that I bought off of Ebay around 2004 or so. The other is my Ibanez SR506M six-string, purchased new circa 2011 or 2012. Now, I've owned and played these basses for a long time. But guess what: The Ibanez looks a ton more "relic'd" than the Conklin. Why, because the Ibanez is my main bass and I've been playing it pretty much every day for a dozen years!!! There are parts of the neck where the nitro has practically worn off, a spot on the body where my fingernails have worn through the paint from slapping, and an overall dullness and "rubbed" quality to both the wood and the metal and the plastic. The Conklin? Still pretty pristine, few signs of wear, still shiny. So for me, the important part of a relic'd instrument is when it reminds you of how long you've been playing it! Just my two cents; totally cool with and respectful of other takes.
Exactly what you're saying happened to me when aging a bass bridge using the same process you described. Although I thought I had cleaned off the components well, 6 months later when I tried to adjust the bridge saddles the grub screws were frozen solid in the their holes and no matter what I did I could not break them free. Not to mention the Allen key hole was also corroded to the point that the Allen key just spun inside of it. In short....the bridge was ruined and needed to be replaced.
Reminder is set.
Most people miss that if you scrape off the finish from a guitar it will not handle water from neither rain or sweat.
I would be a good idé to put a clear coat on after the aging is done.
On the few occasions I relic'd a guitar, I sprayed the finish with a protective clear coat. Sort of weird when you think about it ;-)
I installed a cast bronze mortise lock in a distressed pair of dungeon style entry doors at a site that had an awesome set of distressed stairs which I'm told was processed with chains, and other objects. As I was finishing up the yuppie couple arrived in after being out of town. When they came in to see the new doors the wife was quite upset and said "everything looked beat up and trashed". I'm not sure what she thought of the steps, I thought they were pretty righteous and the guys who had done it were admirably good. Later I was told the door pair was $15,000 but never heard a number amount for the steps. Some people get it and some don't, it was amusing because they were paying for everything... I've not reliced anything but paying attention to where you're existing wear is (even light scratches) can show you where your focus might be. I've contemplated making fingerless abrasive gloves for people to use during practice to speed up the process. Thanks to your channel I see that people should start with my 180 gloves and slowly work up to the 400.
I never thought u would be a relic type of guy!! Thanks Chris another great video
I like building them for other people, not myself.
I like mine shiny and new looking
A little off topic for this video. I recently went down a rabbit hole after buying a pack of 3M sand paper marked 800 when the contents were P800. Grading conversion lists vary wildly. Have you seen or made a list of abrasives. same problem with pumice, micro mesh, etc. This may make a helpful video for your viewers.
Never heard "relic" used as a verb. You learn something every day.
Originally I was going to do a video on guitar building terms I can't stand and relic'd was one of them. I think artificially aged is more appropriate.
@@HighlineGuitars Good! So I'm not crazy. Whew!
I am not a relic fan, but it was still informative on what should not be relc'ed
For the most part, I make classical guitars. For reliquing, Willie Nelson is my role model. Carry on!
I'm not into relicing, and look after the metal parts of my guitars, oiling them as necessary to prevent corrosion. I have carried out resprays, body contouring etc., and lo and behold, my guitars look fabulous; naturally worn in, and personalised. Much better than a fake relic, which I'd probably do quite badly.
I do like some of the reliced guitars if its on the light-medium aging. I think the fender heavy relic custom shops look like trash. Many dont even look like realistic aging. I think the best is to either complete wear or light relic with some play time so it looks more natural
In my view the best way to age a guitar is.. are you ready? Ok. Play your guitar for at least 6gigs a week for at least 25years and before you can say Abracadabra, you have have yourself a real aged guitar.
Exactly. Look at Tommy Tedesco's Tele or SRV. BTS guitars as a consequence of being workmen's wrenches.
What if you want a cool relic guitar, but don’t gig and it never leaves the house?
Yes but there are guitars that have been gigged for over 20 years and still look the same. Not all guitar players act like rock stars.
@@ramencurry6672 Not all players are Rock Stars. It's show business mostly.
@@sgt.gruhnn A guitar is a guitar. It's not about what it or you sound like. It's about what the guitar sounds like. Be it old or new. Looks have nothing to do with a good sounding guitar.
You got my sub✌🏽
I admit I don't care for the relic trend; nonetheless, I don't begrudge those who like it--we're all musicians so it's all good.
But for me, I'm of the opinion that honest player wear on any instrument should be earned not faked, wherein every historic scar/scratch/stain/etc. has an accompanying story to relate. The instrument had a real life to share if one learns to appreciate it.
I reliced my guitar, I played it for 45 years.
I completely understand the concept of reliced guitars, but there is a world of difference between someone like Dr. Nitro of 8 Bomb Custom, who makes incredible facsimiles of vintage guitars and others that just end up with a guitar that looks like someone deliberately damaged a guitar, which, in reality, it simply is.
I find it hard to understand people who pay for making them look young and their guitars look old. But if they like it...
Thanks Chris but if you really want to put the guitar through the ringer and test it's roadworthy Ness you can do what what Eddie van Halen did and plug your guitar into an Amp for a, week let it feedback for a, week stress test the guitar by dragging it through a parking lot put hooks and chains on the guitar instead of normal guitar straps. And if you hate laqusr on the fretboard like Eddie did on his Kramer guitar or polyurathane on the fretboard you can just make sure you sweat profusely while playing it on stage so it cracks and wears off the finish you don't like then chip away at it like Eddie did and you will defenetely get the reliced look and don't forget you can drag the guitar body through a parking lot to wear off the paint too.
Okay maybe that's extreme and maybe I am reacting to all the nonsense on you tube and Amazon over a freaking can of watco laquar clear and the word smithing of still calling that laqusr nitrocelulose laquar when it's not.
same with minwax clear brushing laquar it's acrylic laqusr if it has Mek in it it's acrylic laquar just like the can of duplicolor perfect match car paint it might have variances in the formulations between manufactures of the different laquars whether minwax or watco or even deft but because it's acrylic laquar and not 1950s or 1960s laquar that's why it does not yellow anymore. Mohawk I am not sure of yet but for me I just want one company make my own grey flat color for recreating a grey or black primer seal coat then tiny my own base coat color using mica powder all from one company then do a gloss watco or deft clear coat even if I need to reduce it first but the nonsense of the internet and Amazon and Google makes it very confusing and the other reason I thinking of this is because the duplicolor perfect match automotive clear in the 8 ounce cans often will not cure right on a guitar body over the bssecoat and scratch filler primer due to the plastisizers in the clear which is meant for metal fenders and plastic bumpers and no way I am doing a 2 k polyurathane clear like spray max because you can't store the can once you push the red button. And 19 dollars for a, small spray can whether duplicolor or spray max seems like a not very cost effective option long term.
Anyway thanks as always Chris but maybe it's time to help the rest of us figure out a way around all the nonsense of paint reformulations and compatability problems that are now coming up over painting a, simple guitar body.
I learned recently that Antonio Stradivari would age many of his newly built violins more than 300 years ago. Even 300 years ago, people "knew" that only old instruments sound good! Times change but people stay pretty much the same. Musicians seem particularly susceptible to snake oil for some reason.
Aging things is a trend that’s been around for at least 50 years that I know. It’s done with furniture, clothing; everything. Morality only comes into it because someone doesn’t like it. If you don’t like it don’t do it.
I am strongly against relic something brand new in order to look cool. Certainly you will not wish your 25 years old bride to look like 55, why not let your guitar age naturally and gracefully over time instead.
What if you’re 70+ years old and don’t have the time left to naturally age your guitar?
@@HighlineGuitars Not everyone consider a relic guitar is cool, if someone is 70+ years old, it is unlikely he is a new player, he could have played for 50+ years already.
@@stephenleung9189 or he/she may have taken up guitar after retirement. I know many people in that situation. In fact, I made a relic guitar for one.
@@HighlineGuitars my point is why would anyone want to destroy something beautifully done to make it cool for his own ego?
@@stephenleung9189 Because they want to.
Not fan of that "Relic" look.......But if you do then more power to you.
If you hate buying relics bc you think it’s for posers or pretending to have made that wear yourself. I really hope you’ve never bought a used guitar. Bc that would be pretending to have created that wear yourself.
No it wouldn't. It would be buying a used guitar, which may have signs of wear.
@@1man1guitarletsgo so intentional marks on a guitar are different from unintentional marks. So relicing is about intent? At the end of the day somebody else made the marks.
@@jamesmarkham7489 And your point is?
@@1man1guitarletsgo that if a new relic guitar makes you a poser then a used guitar with marks on it is the same. So anyone playing a used guitar would be a poser by the same logic that relic haters use.
@@jamesmarkham7489 I disagree. People who choose to buy brand new relics pay extra for someone to damage the guitar in advance. People buying used guitars pay less than list price, with mint condition examples fetching the highest prices, and badly worn ones commanding lower prices. Incidentally, by introducing the concept of the "poser", and then commenting on that concept, you've created a "straw man argument", which we shall ignore.
I actually did skip the video. I cannot stand the idea of relicing. Anyone with a rasp and some polyurethane could scrape up their guitar and then put a coat of finish on it. That and the fact that it is by and large seen as an "extra" is mind-blowing to me. Capitalism never ceases to amaze me when it comes to the depths of stupidity it can spawn. I liked the video anyway. Peace
It's fun to make a relic guitar, but I doubt I would ever make one for myself except as a piece of wall art.
I would never 'relic' a guitar. they all look so fake.