Thanks for this post... I have have been making the antiquity pots that you have posted in the past... and will be adding this to my collection... I really like this shape... you measured the widest width of the vase in relation to the opening... do you mind mentioning that relation is... Thanks Kindly...
The original idea was to have the height greater than the diameter and the opening one-quarter the diameter. I achieved that at one stage, then forgot and reduced the diameter, partly to reduce the weight of the piece. My recollection is that the final dimensions are about 90x130mm with the opening about 30mm
Another very enjoyable video Richard. I am always amazed at the speed you can remove wood. It would take me hours to do what you can in minutes. You have probably considered it already, but would a bicycle tyre pump with a "hose" on make an alternative to a compressor for removing dust?
Thanks , I Always learn something new from watching you. Question, where do you get the square scrapers? I have some wood river brand that seem to get shorter every time I use them. Would like to have a better quality for there replacements. Thanks again
I don't know where you are. I use Henry Taylor, Hamlet, and Sorby scrapers which are available worldwide. In North America you'd also consider Thompson and D-Way.
Whilst hollowing the lathe was probably running about 1100-1200rpm. I see no point in sanding the inside further than a finger can reach. The inside was pretty smooth off the tools.
Richard, you said you will polish this pot regularly for a few days. Would you describe that in more detail please? Do you apply more oil off the lathe? Or do you apply more bees wax off the lathe? Or is it both or something else? Thanks.
Throughout the 1970s and 80s I finished everything with a cooking oil and beeswax mix. To me, the advantage of an oil/beeswax finish is that when utilitarian bowls are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wooden chopping or serving board, wooden plate, wooden salad bowl, or cup. On pieces that won’t get wet, the oil/beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing with wax polish or boiled linseed oil that can build to a glossy patina in a few months. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age, use, and ongoing care.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks for the reply. That might be an interesting video. You could show some of your older pieces and what the patina that develops over time for both utilitarian pieces that get washed and display pieces that have been polished over time. I think I understand you to be saying that you are rubbing in more coats of oil and or wax to the piece at some interval over time. You could show that as well. Thanks for the videos, keep them coming. They are a great resource that complement your books and videos.
I think how shavings are extracted depends on the shavings. Dust and chips are easy to blow out, whereas thick curly shavings are not. Hence the development of my shavings hook.
18:06 Your shaving extraction tool is outstanding! But sometimes, at least in my shop, there's no substitute for air. Mike Peace recently showed, in a short, a little handheld blower that is really handy (th-cam.com/users/shorts66bsDxTj65g?si=hwKhASPHcNszkEA3). The Torque Test Channel did a review of several Amazon offerings, which can give guidance on which brand(s) are best. (th-cam.com/video/4gkmx3GtLcs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zMTFFZzom9y-kyG4). I have a Solareye X13CA which works well, so far.
Thanks for the links. However I do have a blower - a suck and blow shopvac - for the very occasions when I need one. I never found hollow forms commercially viable so have turned very few.
Very instructive seeing how you developed the shape and the hollowing process you use. Love the shape of this piece
Thanks! for all of your teaching and Merry Christmas
Many thanks. Much appreciated.
Your sense of form, curves and balance is astounding.
Very nice, I like the close ups and information on the tools you use.Love your shaving removing tool. Thanks for another great video.
It is quite amazing how the small detail of crisping up the rim at the end of the project improved the look greatly… good eye.
Thank you for what you do Mr. Raffan. I learn something every time I watch you turn.
Turned out real nice.
Thank you for sharing your years of knowledge.You are truly inspirational!
Very nice piece.
Elm, absolutely fantastic wood to turn wet or dry.
You are a true master. Beautiful Elm pot!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I look forward with anticipation to every video.
Very enjoyable. And a lovely form!
Thank you for these videos I am learning a lot from them.
Thanks for this post... I have have been making the antiquity pots that you have posted in the past... and will be adding this to my collection... I really like this shape... you measured the widest width of the vase in relation to the opening... do you mind mentioning that relation is... Thanks Kindly...
The original idea was to have the height greater than the diameter and the opening one-quarter the diameter. I achieved that at one stage, then forgot and reduced the diameter, partly to reduce the weight of the piece. My recollection is that the final dimensions are about 90x130mm with the opening about 30mm
Another very enjoyable video Richard. I am always amazed at the speed you can remove wood. It would take me hours to do what you can in minutes. You have probably considered it already, but would a bicycle tyre pump with a "hose" on make an alternative to a compressor for removing dust?
Stunning.
Thanks , I Always learn something new from watching you. Question, where do you get the square scrapers? I have some wood river brand that seem to get shorter every time I use them. Would like to have a better quality for there replacements. Thanks again
I don't know where you are. I use Henry Taylor, Hamlet, and Sorby scrapers which are available worldwide. In North America you'd also consider Thompson and D-Way.
That's a wonderful piece, thankyou for sharing. What speed was the lathe running at when hollowing out? Also, how did you sand the inside?
Whilst hollowing the lathe was probably running about 1100-1200rpm. I see no point in sanding the inside further than a finger can reach. The inside was pretty smooth off the tools.
I’m jealous, Elm is almost unheard of in the U.S. because of the Dutch Elm disease.
Richard, you said you will polish this pot regularly for a few days. Would you describe that in more detail please? Do you apply more oil off the lathe? Or do you apply more bees wax off the lathe? Or is it both or something else? Thanks.
Throughout the 1970s and 80s I finished everything with a cooking oil and beeswax mix. To me, the advantage of an oil/beeswax finish is that when utilitarian bowls are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wooden chopping or serving board, wooden plate, wooden salad bowl, or cup. On pieces that won’t get wet, the oil/beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing with wax polish or boiled linseed oil that can build to a glossy patina in a few months. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age, use, and ongoing care.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks for the reply. That might be an interesting video. You could show some of your older pieces and what the patina that develops over time for both utilitarian pieces that get washed and display pieces that have been polished over time. I think I understand you to be saying that you are rubbing in more coats of oil and or wax to the piece at some interval over time. You could show that as well. Thanks for the videos, keep them coming. They are a great resource that complement your books and videos.
@@kevinseigworth271 You see some well-used bowls and plates at the beginning of my video on bowl design th-cam.com/video/qAg8-8Z6xw0/w-d-xo.html.
LOL, just barely in the specs for the 4-way. Good job.
I have a similar shavings extractor but I find a vacuum cleaner is better.
I think how shavings are extracted depends on the shavings. Dust and chips are easy to blow out, whereas thick curly shavings are not. Hence the development of my shavings hook.
How many different tools can be made from a bent wire coat hanger?
18:06 Your shaving extraction tool is outstanding! But sometimes, at least in my shop, there's no substitute for air. Mike Peace recently showed, in a short, a little handheld blower that is really handy (th-cam.com/users/shorts66bsDxTj65g?si=hwKhASPHcNszkEA3). The Torque Test Channel did a review of several Amazon offerings, which can give guidance on which brand(s) are best. (th-cam.com/video/4gkmx3GtLcs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zMTFFZzom9y-kyG4). I have a Solareye X13CA which works well, so far.
Thanks for the links. However I do have a blower - a suck and blow shopvac - for the very occasions when I need one. I never found hollow forms commercially viable so have turned very few.
You call that thin-walled? I "completed" a vase today with a wall thickness of zero.
Done that before too😂