Total Boat is my way to go. I was using epoxy for the first time and their customer service was outstanding. I then followed up with a varnish finish and once again their communication with me was great. So far my outside counter top is holding up nicely in the sun and rain so I highly recommend Total Boat.
Just curious since it's two years after the original upload what the results were of the follow-up testing. Even if you don't end up doing a video, just curious which products ended up doing the best? Thank you!
Great compartment! Last month I finished varnishing the interior inside my boat with Epifanes and it looks ok. The only one think is that is not strong enough it takes scratches very easily.
Only a guess but it probably didn’t get enough cure time before seeing abuse. Unfortunately I have not found a perfect varnish but you picked one that has always held up for me. Given time it’s an excellent finish.
Came here after watching a similar video by Andy of Boatworks Today. He had similar finish results (though he didn't subject his to the "wear & tear" test). Now to see if you did the follow-up video ...
Thank you. Can I ask which varnish has tung Oil in it and would you choose it for a place in Caribbean where it’s hot rainy and a lot of salt in the air. Very close to ocean this would be on a newly 8 month old railings. And a Mahogany Door.
I’m not experienced in that kind of environment so I have no idea what is best. Man o war is my top pick from my test matching your question Le tonkinois is the most original varnish that I can think of. It’s probably your best bet with a “natural” varnish.
thanks for the vids!! In the process of building a McKenzie Double Ender. You know how the rivers are here in Michigan and know how much abuse the bottom of my boat will see. What kind of top coat would you recommend for the bottom of my drifter? the bottom is ply with 2 layers of fiberglass cloth and polyester resin with and oil base primer. leaning towards a thick truck bed liner but worried about heat and possible sun exposure ,cold winter steelhead fishing and ultimately maintenance. Maybe West system epoxy with a 207 hardener and multiple coats? really want a black bottom, to accent the dark red sides and dark stain on my woodwork, about 6" up the sides, thick for a rub rail and carrying up the bow and stern . thanks for any suggestions, keep up the great work!
It sounds like you already glassed the bottom with polyester so now you need to stop the moisture from getting to the wood. Polyester resin is only water resistant not water proof so your ply is at risk. To accomplish that I’d recommend eliminating any existing primer that might be on the bottom then apply 4 or 5 coats of an epoxy primer. You can go over that with a topside paint and it makes for an easier touch up. I’ll be the first to admit it’s not a perfect solution but it’s the best I can think of.
@@oliverwoodcraft9733 I haven't put the secondary layer of glass on yet or primer. That was My thought also was top off with an epoxy. I am a little hesitant to use and epoxy primer and paint, only cause I haven't ever used it, good thing its a bottom
Chris Plashek Epoxy primers are nothing to be afraid of and they do a great job stopping water intrusion. If you lay the secondary glass with epoxy you can more easily fill the weave by hot coating to avoid a ton of sanding. If you went that route I would still recommend epoxy primer. A single part paint is an easy thing to maintain so I would just use that. Another question is did you seal the inside of the boat at all?
@@oliverwoodcraft9733 I haven't done anything with the inside yet as far as finish just one layer of 10oz cloth with a top coat so far. Was thinking just oil base primer and paint for the inside after I run some fairing compound. Most of the boat is going to be paint, the decks, gunwells and seats I would like to leave wood, probably epoxy and polyurethane. Using epoxy to lay the second layer on the bottom is a great idea.
Polyurethane varnishes are tougher and more scratch resistant than all those varnishes. Just one problem- they avoid making marine varnishes from polyurethane for the very reason that they are so hard and thus brittle. Marine varnishes need to be FLEXIBLE and thus softer than indoor varnishes. They need to expand and contract and not let go. The tests you did were not really marine varnish tests. Flexing and gloss retention would be the proper test, plus heat and cold cycle tests on a wood that is known for expanding and contracting.
Hi!! I hope you don't mind for my question.. i have a 1/2 inch plywood 12"x 20" so i painted all black with enamels (oil based) and then i painted some letters with fancy letters on top of it red and yellow on top of the black,so my question Is which varnish or clear coat can be used to protect the sign because i want it for outdoors!! Thanks!!
I have been using Total Boat...Epiphanes and Deep Penentrating Epoxy...The Epoxy was really nice to work with...With Epiphanes there is a real need to create a roughed out base coat of whatever to top with Epiphanes or it will bubble and look terrible with weathering...Oregon Coast
You were speaking of using Smith’s below the Epiphanes? The Epiphanes worked beautifully over some cedar adirondack chairs...but apparently my application lacked the necessary scuffing before applying the Topcoat...per Total Boat folks...
Smith’s is excellent at creating initial bonds just fallow the can. If I understand it correctly it actually makes a chemical bond. Any additional coats are mechanical (unless using something like total boats lust) and definitely require a good amount of tooth for proper adhesion.
I have some red cedar live edge OUTDOOR bartops that I need to seal and protect. After researching and speaking to several people...it seems as if varnish is the way to go. I was thinking about Epifanes. Do you recommend Total Boat instead? It will have all weather exposure from the Kentucky weather. I'm also new to the process. Just built a pool bar and decided to do the live edge bartops. Any helpful information will be appreciated 🙂
Epifanes would be a great option for that but it does take good technique to use. Totalboat is a friendlier varnish if you haven’t done it before. With all weather exposure I would recommend 13-14 coats first year then probably 3 maintenance coats every 2 year’s. If it looks like it needs attention then make sure it happens. Failed varnish is a pain.
Great video. Can you tell me which of those is the least amber in color in the can? Looking to varnish something made of carbon fiber so would like as least amber color as possible
All of these have a bit of amber to them but the Gleam is probably the best option. It’s a very thin varnish so expect to apply multiple coats to fill scratches. You can over coat it without sand if you do it within 48hrs.
@@oliverwoodcraft9733 no, not at all...i am just interested in the outcome is all as im building my own campervan and would like something of a wow factor in the end result =)
I appreciate your testing but have some questions. you mention on the scratch test you had to work harder on some of the products. Shouldn't you have just used a weighted wire brush with the same number of strokes to compare damage? I personally have used the Petitt 1015 with excellent results for a skiff used in saltwater. I just don't like the 1 coat per day waiting. I was looking at total boat lust as an alternative and will give it a try.
Each product was given the same number of stokes on the scratch test. Lust is an awesome product for building coats. If you can manage the flow characteristics even a top coat is attainable with this product. I have been experimenting with the matte lust as a building coat so it’s easier to see when hot coating.
@@foxwood67 Good luck, please let me know how it turns out good or bad. I really appreciate any feed back I can get. This was intended to be a “real world” kind of experiment.
Hey Grant. Nice video. I'm planning on applying Man O War on my new raw door while working in a detached garage. Temps are supposed to dip into the 40s at night but around 60 during the day during the process next week. I don't have any heaters. I'm putting 4 coats on both sides. Planned on 24 hr dry time between coats = 8 days. Any concerns with drying or setup? Also, do you think Man O War darkens African Mahogany more than what I can see by just a rubdown of mineral oil to test what a clear finish may look like?
I actually just tried it again the other day on a project and love it. Your timeline sounds right but I would encourage you to go thicker. Try a minimum of 6 coats per side. It has a little more amber tone on the finish but at that thin of a build up it would hardly be noticeable. I hope that helps. Try it on a sample/scrap first if you are concerned about color change.
Thanks. I’ll use a space heater to help then. Last question. When sealing a storm door with spar varnish, that will have full exposure to the elements, will I need to remove the mortise with the knobs?
Are there non toxic finishes just as durable? NOT what the FDA claims is safe. I do not think any plastic is actually non toxic. What is claimed as food safe is just what the FDA says; they lie, a lot! I use varnish on some things, but I wish for better safer finishes.
Loved how methodical you were on this stage of the testing. Wish the long term testing results were available.
I’m sorry I never finished this as well. Life got in the way and I think I would need to do it all over again to have it be a fair test at this point.
Thank You for your help I'm looking for a good varnish to protect my terrace and your movie helped a lot
It will be interesting to see how they all hold up to UV and weather. Nice job!
Thank you 😁
Total Boat is my way to go. I was using epoxy for the first time and their customer service was outstanding. I then followed up with a varnish finish and once again their communication with me was great. So far my outside counter top is holding up nicely in the sun and rain so I highly recommend Total Boat.
I’m glad to hear that. I have had the same experience.
What products did you use from Total Boat and what was your process?
Great test I’m with you on total boat finished out nice and pretty tough.
Enjoyed video, helped me make my decision for my next project.
Are you going to do the follow-up? Would love to see the results of the weather test.
Yes a fallow up is going to happen it’s just a little slow going on video production right now.
I thank you for your a very good help to decide what varnish to choose
Nicely done research with good recommendations. I have used the Total Boat Lust varnish with the excellent results that Oliver describes. Thanks!
Just curious since it's two years after the original upload what the results were of the follow-up testing. Even if you don't end up doing a video, just curious which products ended up doing the best? Thank you!
Yes id like to know too
Adding my plus one to durability!
Very nice job with the video. Keep em coming!
Truly appreciated to highly practical focus...
Curious if youve got the updated results. Thanks for the test.
Great compartment! Last month I finished varnishing the interior inside my boat with Epifanes and it looks ok. The only one think is that is not strong enough it takes scratches very easily.
Only a guess but it probably didn’t get enough cure time before seeing abuse. Unfortunately I have not found a perfect varnish but you picked one that has always held up for me. Given time it’s an excellent finish.
Thanks! Great test!
Came here after watching a similar video by Andy of Boatworks Today. He had similar finish results (though he didn't subject his to the "wear & tear" test).
Now to see if you did the follow-up video ...
Okay .. no follow-up video found.
I'd really like to see how they all held up, please!
I’m trying to get one done ASAP.
Awesome. Really informative.
Thanks for check it out.
Thank you. Can I ask which varnish has tung Oil in it and would you
choose it for a place in Caribbean where it’s hot rainy and a lot of salt in the air. Very close to ocean this would be on a newly 8 month old railings. And a Mahogany Door.
I’m not experienced in that kind of environment so I have no idea what is best. Man o war is my top pick from my test matching your question Le tonkinois is the most original varnish that I can think of. It’s probably your best bet with a “natural” varnish.
thanks for the vids!!
In the process of building a McKenzie Double Ender. You know how the rivers are here in Michigan and know how much abuse the bottom of my boat will see. What kind of top coat would you recommend for the bottom of my drifter? the bottom is ply with 2 layers of fiberglass cloth and polyester resin with and oil base primer. leaning towards a thick truck bed liner but worried about heat and possible sun exposure ,cold winter steelhead fishing and ultimately maintenance. Maybe West system epoxy with a 207 hardener and multiple coats? really want a black bottom, to accent the dark red sides and dark stain on my woodwork, about 6" up the sides, thick for a rub rail and carrying up the bow and stern . thanks for any suggestions, keep up the great work!
It sounds like you already glassed the bottom with polyester so now you need to stop the moisture from getting to the wood. Polyester resin is only water resistant not water proof so your ply is at risk. To accomplish that I’d recommend eliminating any existing primer that might be on the bottom then apply 4 or 5 coats of an epoxy primer. You can go over that with a topside paint and it makes for an easier touch up. I’ll be the first to admit it’s not a perfect solution but it’s the best I can think of.
@@oliverwoodcraft9733
I haven't put the secondary layer of glass on yet or primer. That was My thought also was top off with an epoxy. I am a little hesitant to use and epoxy primer and paint, only cause I haven't ever used it, good thing its a bottom
Chris Plashek Epoxy primers are nothing to be afraid of and they do a great job stopping water intrusion. If you lay the secondary glass with epoxy you can more easily fill the weave by hot coating to avoid a ton of sanding. If you went that route I would still recommend epoxy primer. A single part paint is an easy thing to maintain so I would just use that. Another question is did you seal the inside of the boat at all?
@@oliverwoodcraft9733
I haven't done anything with the inside yet as far as finish just one layer of 10oz cloth with a top coat so far. Was thinking just oil base primer and paint for the inside after I run some fairing compound. Most of the boat is going to be paint, the decks, gunwells and seats I would like to leave wood, probably epoxy and polyurethane. Using epoxy to lay the second layer on the bottom is a great idea.
awaiting an update on how your river boat is coming
Thanks for the video. I learned alot.
Polyurethane varnishes are tougher and more scratch resistant than all those varnishes. Just one problem- they avoid making marine varnishes from polyurethane for the very reason that they are so hard and thus brittle. Marine varnishes need to be FLEXIBLE and thus softer than indoor varnishes. They need to expand and contract and not let go. The tests you did were not really marine varnish tests. Flexing and gloss retention would be the proper test, plus heat and cold cycle tests on a wood that is known for expanding and contracting.
Thanks for the feedback.
Nice , its a shame here in Mexico cant found it that products. Even Amazon
Thank you for Info 😊
Quick question between epifanes and mano war which is the best speaking about durable?
What ever happened to the followup video to this with the pieces left outside and in buckets of water?
Hi!! I hope you don't mind for my question.. i have a 1/2 inch plywood 12"x 20" so i painted all black with enamels (oil based) and then i painted some letters with fancy letters on top of it red and yellow on top of the black,so my question Is which varnish or clear coat can be used to protect the sign because i want it for outdoors!! Thanks!!
Honestly I have no idea. I have never done anything like that
I have been using Total Boat...Epiphanes and Deep Penentrating Epoxy...The Epoxy was really nice to work with...With Epiphanes there is a real need to create a roughed out base coat of whatever to top with Epiphanes or it will bubble and look terrible with weathering...Oregon Coast
I have used Smiths epoxy for that in the past and managed great results. Thanks for passing on your experience.
You were speaking of using Smith’s below the Epiphanes? The Epiphanes worked beautifully over some cedar adirondack chairs...but apparently my application lacked the necessary scuffing before applying the Topcoat...per Total Boat folks...
Smith’s is excellent at creating initial bonds just fallow the can. If I understand it correctly it actually makes a chemical bond. Any additional coats are mechanical (unless using something like total boats lust) and definitely require a good amount of tooth for proper adhesion.
I'm not sure why we can't see the results of the test since it's been 3 years.
Personal life issues got in the way. I’m sorry for the inconvenience.
@@oliverwoodcraft9733ok, man. Take care of yourself first! Our wood projects aren't that important!
I have some red cedar live edge OUTDOOR bartops that I need to seal and protect. After researching and speaking to several people...it seems as if varnish is the way to go. I was thinking about Epifanes. Do you recommend Total Boat instead? It will have all weather exposure from the Kentucky weather. I'm also new to the process. Just built a pool bar and decided to do the live edge bartops. Any helpful information will be appreciated 🙂
Epifanes would be a great option for that but it does take good technique to use. Totalboat is a friendlier varnish if you haven’t done it before. With all weather exposure I would recommend 13-14 coats first year then probably 3 maintenance coats every 2 year’s. If it looks like it needs attention then make sure it happens. Failed varnish is a pain.
Great video. Can you tell me which of those is the least amber in color in the can? Looking to varnish something made of carbon fiber so would like as least amber color as possible
All of these have a bit of amber to them but the Gleam is probably the best option. It’s a very thin varnish so expect to apply multiple coats to fill scratches. You can over coat it without sand if you do it within 48hrs.
@@oliverwoodcraft9733 thanks for the response. I'll check it out.
Could you do a video of a varnish over walnut stain on pine please
Sorry For the slow response. Iv been wondering where this request comes from? Have you had issues in the past?
@@oliverwoodcraft9733 no, not at all...i am just interested in the outcome is all as im building my own campervan and would like something of a wow factor in the end result =)
No promises but I’ll see what I can come up with for you.
No dramas dude =) its all good...Thankyou for taking the time to reply..
Would you consider Cetol in your testing?
Three options with that orange, orange or orange. Sorry but no.
I appreciate your testing but have some questions. you mention on the scratch test you had to work harder on some of the products. Shouldn't you have just used a weighted wire brush with the same number of strokes to compare damage? I personally have used the Petitt 1015 with excellent results for a skiff used in saltwater. I just don't like the 1 coat per day waiting. I was looking at total boat lust as an alternative and will give it a try.
Each product was given the same number of stokes on the scratch test. Lust is an awesome product for building coats. If you can manage the flow characteristics even a top coat is attainable with this product. I have been experimenting with the matte lust as a building coat so it’s easier to see when hot coating.
@@oliverwoodcraft9733 thanks for the info. Im going to give it a try.
@@foxwood67 Good luck, please let me know how it turns out good or bad. I really appreciate any feed back I can get. This was intended to be a “real world” kind of experiment.
Can you tell me please if i can find tinted varnish brown color???
I have not seen anything like that but then again I haven’t looked for it.
wait a minute...you choose the fast drying one but what if we do have time? and it is in our backyard? couldnt have ranked the others?
Anyone of these would be an excellent option. On a side note thanks for being the 600th sub.
Rustoleum Spar Varnish ?
Iv never tried that.
Hey Grant. Nice video. I'm planning on applying Man O War on my new raw door while working in a detached garage. Temps are supposed to dip into the 40s at night but around 60 during the day during the process next week. I don't have any heaters. I'm putting 4 coats on both sides. Planned on 24 hr dry time between coats = 8 days. Any concerns with drying or setup? Also, do you think Man O War darkens African Mahogany more than what I can see by just a rubdown of mineral oil to test what a clear finish may look like?
I actually just tried it again the other day on a project and love it. Your timeline sounds right but I would encourage you to go thicker. Try a minimum of 6 coats per side. It has a little more amber tone on the finish but at that thin of a build up it would hardly be noticeable. I hope that helps. Try it on a sample/scrap first if you are concerned about color change.
Thanks. Those temps aren't a concern to you?
Steve K I varnish in 50-55 all winter it may not be ideal but it does work.
Thanks. I’ll use a space heater to help then. Last question. When sealing a storm door with spar varnish, that will have full exposure to the elements, will I need to remove the mortise with the knobs?
Steve K If I’m understanding your question I would say yes. You want to be able to seal up every possible entry point for moisture intrusion.
30 years coatings tech. Every product has it's pro's and cons.
Where are the results??? What a lost opportunity.
Are there non toxic finishes just as durable? NOT what the FDA claims is safe. I do not think any plastic is actually non toxic. What is claimed as food safe is just what the FDA says; they lie, a lot!
I use varnish on some things, but I wish for better safer finishes.
Please eliminate the music. It was so annoying I seriously considered not watching it all the way through.
Thanks for the feedback I appreciate you tolerating it. I’m still learning what people want and this really helps. Thank you.