Part One Stutz Gas Gauge

First I want to apologize for the poor editing! It took quite a while to figure out how to manage such thin stock (.006") ! You would think something that thin wouldn't be very hard to form! and to use anything much heavier may not want to float. So I may repeat myself and did film several attempts of the same subject! So I may have confused the viewer as well as myself!

[@romjone4801]

Thanks for showing. I enjoy learning about the old technology.

[@Letsmakeitgreatagain.]

Stay tuned, I’m working on making a complete new shock absorber for the Stutz! And thanks for watching! Have a fantastic day!

[@davidcooper4030]

This pretty interesting, Steve.

[@Letsmakeitgreatagain.]

Thanks for watching! Great bird photo by the way!

[@ShainAndrews]

If you want square corners a two die setup is beneficial... probably even three. Your first requires a significant radius at the bottom. This allows the material to be drawn in vs a sheer condition. The walls should have a draft angle to facilitate drawing the material in as well. Then your second set will form the sharp corners and parallel walls.
You know.. the standard three days preparing for a job then the hour or two to complete it.

[@Letsmakeitgreatagain.]

I like your suggestion! I'll give it a try next time! Thanks for your comment! Also like your Rusty Deer Start!

[@ShainAndrews]

@@Letsmakeitgreatagain. Progressive dies are key. People see what we do in production stamping and think it's a one step job. In some instances sure... but when you get into deep draw territory even we use progressive dies. Although I lean towards hydro forming as the material experiences a more uniform yield across the entire surface.
Several of us used to restore a lot of vintage equipment. Usually spend one day a week, and on the weekends. Think we finished 8-9 machines before we all kind of scattered across the US. If we found enough drivers we were half the parade. LOL.