The Furphy guy could tell a tail,these barrels were dragged all over the gold fields LOVE the cracked barrel end ,most have been removed and hang on a wall some were,I had one gave it to a old prospector down southern NSW Great photo ,thank you
Yes i appreciate the repetitive nature of your videos, layers in editing was a mystery to me, moving from top to bottom and adjusting the photo., I am learning ...slowly. Thanks Richard!
Another Masterpiece and a really educational video - like all the other ones - ...need no more words , but let me wish you all the best for 2020 full of health to see you again under the stars..you are the man..many thanks
I really appreciate the detailed repetition of the steps in each video. After watching many of your videos I am starting to understand the process. The best thing is you talk us through each menu step, which helps immensely. Thanks for being a GREAT inspiration.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Lots of us are not only new to nightscapes, but new to Photoshop and other tools. A simple process can turn frustrating when we miss a single menu step - "Where the heck was that control?" - and you do a great job, taking the time to show us the details rather than gloss over them. Thanks again.
Another fantastic Video Richard Love em all.... on a side note have you considered uploading a few raw images from one of your shoots so we can follow on with your great tutorials - us poor photographers here in the UK very rarely see milky way in it's full glory in dark skies you have... would love to have a go with a proper milky way image - I feel sure lots of your other supporters would also like to have a go at editing such dark skies please keep up the good work best place to visit on you tube
Thanks a lot for watching Chris. It is something I've been asked a few times but at this stage I'm not sure about doing that .. I'll give it some more thought.
The good thing of most of your tutorials is you always repeats the setting and the basic things. The repetitive things are for learning IMO. please add more and more post process in 2020. Cheers
I really enjoying these videos you are doing , it's really helping me understand PS alot better, when i normally I'm walking away and not returning for many months
Great video Richard Loved watching the whole process you used. I agree the final image looked fantastic! An old tank never looked so good 🙌 thanks for sharing the video and look forward to your next one 👍🙏
Thanks again Richard for giving an easy to follow set of instructions so that we can easily apply these techniques to our own images. Your generosity is inspiring. I’m looking forward to your next video.
Thanks heaps Brad, it's one of the things I'm continually challenging myself with .. finding great compositions from very simple and everyday subjects. Appreciate you watching.
Hurray, that a nice image you make! Thank you. The south mikyway in Norway is por, and the North part in more spred out, so i can learn to edit from you. Thanks, it not soooo easy, but i tro to fint alt thet funskjons you show. Thanks again!!
Love how simply you explained everything in this video, I used this process to finally do my first stacked Milky Way image in Sequator unfortunately I didn’t light up the Lighthouse I shot as a foreground, that will be my next project. Practicing light painting and capture the MW as well. I will always come back to this video now I know how easy it was. Thanks again Richard
Love your videos Richard. Everything from setup, light painting, equipment and editing work flow. The repetition is much appreciated, helps in understanding the process and the software. Your final images are so beautiful and truly something to emulate.
Thank you very much for the wonderful and encouraging comments Donald. It's so good to hear this feedback and largely why I'm doing what I do. Really appreciated.
hands down, this is one of the best channels on TH-cam for photography! I really like your work. I just upgraded to D750 and I am looking for a nice lens to take my first Milky Way shots. I am looking for second-hand Nikkor 20mm f1.8 (D or G) but as always this gear can be expensive for a hobby. Cheers from Lebanon!
I really liked the composition of this image, with the overall simplicity being masked by the writing and split on the tank dominating the foreground. Another educational video professionally produced. Many thanks.
The text on the end of the tank responds beautifully to your light painting technique Richard, with the resulting shadows throwing the letters into sharp relief. This makes the image for me, along with that beautiful MW backdrop! If only the core stretched out across the sky like that here in the UK... Looking forward to the last couple of videos in this excellent series :]
Thanks a lot Nick. Yes it will be a few months before we see the core again .. but the techniques will still work for any nightscape. Really appreciate your comments.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Here in the USA, in central Illinois we expecting clear skies Tuesday and Wednesday next week, although it will be about 28F / -2C I might give it a try. I know where some old grain silos and another site with an old barn that I've shot the Milky Way this past summer.
Fantastic tutorial again Richard. Just one small point I have noticed with this and other tutorials - in sequator when you are selecting COMPUTING options, you choose select best pixels and move the slider right over to the right - then you choose FREEZE GROUND - I notice the radio button goes away from select best pixels and onto freeze ground - which I think ignores select best pixels - since we have chosen freeze ground ? So selecting best pixels is not necessary. I could be wrong but I would like your advice on the matter. Many thanks and keep the amazing enthusiasm and brilliant inspiring videos coming.
Thanks so much for watching Paul, really appreciate it. I'm not 100% certain myself on this but you will notice that when you Select Best Pixels and slide to the right and then select Freeze Ground .. the Select Best Pixels although greyed out remains all the way to the right. My assumption is that perhaps it is still doing something but of course only the developer of the software would really know. To be honest I've tried it both ways and don't really notice any difference so in the end it probably isn't necessary.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Hi Richard - thank you for replying. My thoughts on the developer are that he is absolutely brilliant producing such a clever application like Sequator. With such a talent and obvious programming skill, I would thing he knows the difference between a CHECK BOX and a RADIAL BUTTON. He would have given us a check boxes, to select one or more items in a panel, and used a radial button to select one out of a bunch of other options. I'm sure you know, but others reading these comments may not, that a radio button works like the old Radios, and nearing 60 yrs I remember owning one. Press a button in for say RADIO 1 and if RADIO 3 was tuned in, out popped its button as RADIO 1 went in. That's a radio button. Press a button and the previously selected button pops out. With a Radio button its only 1 selection from a bunch of possible options. As you quite correctly point out with the settings in Sequator, the best pixels selection is not doing anything when we select Freeze ground. Thanks for clearing this up for me. I've been all over youtube like a rash !! learning from many people but none are so easy to follow as you. I have followed many methods from others on Astro Photography but I always end up coming back to you as your explanations and techniques are so quick, simple and are easily implemented. Keep up the good work. Maybe one day you may advise on blending my Tracker night skies with a fixed light painted foreground. I've managed to do it but my head is melting with such complicated Photoshop techniques.
Really good info there Paul. I know that head melting feeling regarding blending tracked sky with foreground. It's an absolute nightmare when trees are involved. That's why I stack my images as it sits well with my workflow. Thanks so much for your kind words, I really do appreciate it.
I really like how you worked out the composition to give the illusion of a larger tank with equal emphasis on both the tank and sky, a great perspective! I'd like to try the 35mm 1.8 Nikon lens in the future it would be interesting to see how it performs?
Thanks heaps Leigh. Yes I always like to give equal emphasis on the foreground and milky way … the lower the tripod is to the ground the more the foreground element will become prominent. Do you have the full frame Nikon 35mm f1.8 …??
@@nightscapeimages.richard It worked beautifully, looks awesome as always! Yes, both the 35 & 50 so l will give the 35mm a try down the track as l can definitely see how useful it could have been in some of my previous images, plus mixing it up to bring home something abit different is always good 😁
Another superb video and tutorial. This is just what I needed. I'm a Mac user and now have SLS installed. One question: when the images are being stacked in software, how does it deal with the fact that the sky has "moved" during the sequence? I know how it aligns, but what about the stars that creep into the scene during the exposure sequence.....how are they stacked? Does it just crop these edges out? Fantastic video, brilliantly presented and enthusiastically delivered. The best tutorials on TH-cam. Thanks again.
Thanks as always Simon. Yes I believe it will stack what it sees .. .even if they are not in all of the images. It would take a far higher intellect than mine to explain the complications of software that's for sure ...!!!
Thank you for your videos. I really enjoy them. I have started taking Milky Way photos this year. Some are looking pretty good. But most have too much noise. I am using a Canon 70D with a crop sensor. Would a full frame DSLR be better for night photography? Thanks.
I'm so pleased you enjoy the videos and thanks for watching. As a general rule a full frame camera with a good lens will have less noise than your crop camera. You can get less noise if you stack your images as per the workflow here in this video. If you get a chance to try it I'll be keen to see how you go.
Hello again Richard. One other question I had here. At 3:34 of the video you said that you're using a lower shutter speed because of the longer focal length. Why is that? I've always thought that the relationship between the two pertained to avoiding camera shake. If you're on a tripod then I am missing why you're doing that. Thanks!
Thanks so much for watching Tom. When shooting nightscapes the stars are moving due to the rotation of the earth, therefore if your shutter speed is too long you'll notice the stars are not dots but rather small streaks. This is exaggerated when shooting at longer focal lengths because of the greater magnification so I have to keep the shutter speed shorter. Hope that makes sense.
Hi Richard, beautiful work as always! When you have your sky images in Lightroom and you tell us that you normally apply a few corrections like exposure etc to your image, do you apply this same adjustment to all the sky images (10-12) or just to the first one? And if so, is there a quick way in Lightroom to copy the adjustments of one image to multiple? Thanks!
Thanks a lot Nick. Yes I apply the same adjustments to all the layers. All you do is highlight the first one .. then hold down shift and click on the last one. This will select all the layers you want to adjust. Then over on the bottom right of the screen you press Sync .. It will ask you to check all .. do that and then all the image settings are copied to all the other layers.
Nightscape Images thanks very much Richard! Loving the videos, you’re really reigniting my love of photography, and I can’t wait to get out and shoot my first starry sky! Any plans to come to the UK and do workshops?
I love your videos. They are one of the reasons I have bought a Canon M50 so I can learn photography. Can you tell me if with the 15-45 kit lens this camera comes, I can do the same? What could be the best settings? Thanks from Portugal
Thanks so much. I'd suggest putting the lens at 15mm as it's f3.5 at that spot. Then set your shutter speed to about 20 seconds. Put your iso at 1600-3200. Manually focus on a bright star. And see what you get. You can check out my other videos as I go through lots of different techniques and scenarios for shooting.
Hi Richard..another great video. Wish you showed how you lit the tank. Was it one continuous light for each side or partial light in 10 sec.? One more question..how long did you pause between 12 star shots? Thanks for all..cheers.
Thanks very much Mehmet. I used a short amount of light from each side. Probably about 5 seconds from the right side, then on the next exposure about 5 seconds from the left. I have 1 second between all my 12 star shots. In other words they are continually shooting.
Thanks Richard, another great tutorial. Snatched some shots in mid November, will process these with your settings and see how we go. Had 30mins of night sky to get the Milky Way. BTW I was going to try getting the Milky Way directly over Spencer's Gulf looking south west. low in the sky. Is that possible or is there too much light pollution over the ocean?? Thanks
Thanks heaps Greg. I'm not really familiar with the Spencers Gulf area. Is there much population over to the west of there ..?? Anyway, you'll not see the milky way core these days as it's too close to the sun at sunset. The ocean is usually a good setting for the core though.
I always . it could well be the anti virus. Keep trying .. I have downloaded it recently to a windows 10 machine and I'm running Trend Micro anti virus.
Hello Richard, I am spending my lockdown time watching and studying your videos. Time well-spent in my estimation. A couple of quick questions...Does Sequator allow you to use a Wacom tablet for more precise masking of the stars? Also, at 3:36 you mention that you're using a higher shutter speed because of the longer focal length. Why is that? I may have asked this same question before, but I must embarrass myself and ask again. Thanks!
Thanks so much for watching Tom. No problem asking questions. Due to the rotation of the earth the stars appear to move through the sky. This is why our shutter speeds are limited when shooting the milky way. As you increase the focal length you will notice the apparent movement increases so therefore that shutter speed must be less. This is why you can shoot longer shutter speeds with a 14mm lens than a 35mm lens for example. As far as I know you can use a wacom with Sequator.
@@nightscapeimages.richard More watching and studying today of many of your videos. Hoping to get through many of them during our time stuck in the house. How are you arriving at your various ISO settings?
Thanks for the tutorial, that image is fantastic. One question though, I've been using Cyberlink Photodirector for my photo editing as I got it in a package deal a few years ago. I want to upgrade to a more popular, better software that's cheaper then Lightroom and Photoshop, as i don't have the money for those at the moment and I'm looking at getting Darktable or Afinity. Do you think either of them would do as great a job of blending and editing as the Adobe products do.
Hi MrBooojangles. I haven't used either of those programs so I have no first hand knowledge. This article might be helpful to you. Thanks so much for watching.
@Nightscape Images Question regarding focusing on your tank. After shooting stars do you refocus on your tank or leave focus alone throughout all photos? Thanks so much, very helpful clip. Will be using your knowledge while out in the field tomorrow night
Thanks for watching Jonathan. If the subject is very close then I do re-focus on it to make sure it's sharp. In this case I certainly did. Especially as I was using a 35mm focal length lens. If using a very wide angle lens and if the foreground is a fair way away from the camera, then I'll often not need to re-focus. By stopping the aperture of the lens down to shoot the foreground you are actually increasing the depth of field and therefore the in focus" areas of the shot.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thank you for the reply. I'll def. keep that in mind tonight when I go out. Hope to pull it off half as good you did with your work
Surprise to see another fantastic video on the subject, in the month of December! Just wondering do you provide lower res sample images for us to follow and practise the steps that you have shown us? I know it is a big ask....
Thanks as always for your support Raymond. Unfortunately I don't provide copies of my files .. it can be a good thing but there will always be someone who does the wrong thing. If I had a payed course then it would be different but I don't at this point in time.
Hi Richard another great image! A couple of questions. I’m over in the UK and we seem to have very few occasions when the Galactic centre is above the horizon and even when it is only reaches about 10 degrees maximum above horizon. Do you have the same problems there? Watching your videos it doesn’t seem as if you do. Do you take images when the core isn’t visible? Secondly I seem to remember you mentioning star trackers in the past but never seem to use one. I’ve tried tracking and successfully tracked 3 minute exposures but the Milky Way moves so much when doing multiple 3 minute exposures it plays havoc with the foreground and found it hard to blend in a separate foreground image. Would love it if you could give some advice or perhaps able to cover this in one of your videos. As a footnote I was using an Olympus OMD EM5 to capture images and was aiming to take multiple long exposures to help get around noise caused by smaller sensor. keep up the good work would love to come over one day and attend one of your workshops
Hi Donald, thank you so much for watching. You have raised some very good and relevant questions. Firstly, because I live in the southern part of Australia I'm seeing the milky way a lot higher overhead than you will in the UK. That's why it looks vastly different in my images at different times of the year. In the middle of July the core of the milky way is directly overhead here. Secondly I do take images when the core is not around. See this video: th-cam.com/video/yaJG1Ar-BbE/w-d-xo.html I do have a star tracker but I rarely use it for the very reasons you have articulated .. it's a nightmare to blend foregrounds .. especially trees. That's the main reason I prefer the stacking approach using Sequator. There is no doubt that the tracker will give wonderful results for the stars but for widefield nightscapes that's only half the image. Most people who you will see using them a lot are generally shooting in landscape that have flat or well defined horizons .. .we don't have much of that over here in Australia. There are forests and trees everywhere, even on the mountains. You can use the methods outlined in this video with your EM5 to capture the stars .. no worries at all. I hope that helps a bit but unfortunately I can't do anything about the UK weather or lack of milky way .. .sorry.
Hi Richard. Thank you for replying, especially so promptly. I’ll add a visit down under to see you on my bucket list :-) one last question. Other than picking random locations on photopills to see where optimum locations are do you know how I might be able to find locations that closer to home? Thanks again
@@donaldhart730 Well to be honest Donald I find the old fashioned method of getting in the car and driving around the countryside to be the most valuable. It has the added benefit of getting me out of the house ...!!! I only really use photopills when I'm on location already. I don't tend to use it as a planning tool from home.
Richard, I am so happy you are doing this series and I am delighted you demonstrated Sequator. However, I am confused a bit. In your settings for Sequator, you clicked on the "Select Best Pixels" button and then moved the slider to its most strict point. You then went to the next level down and selected "Freeze Ground." It appears these two settings cannot be done simultaneously. When you selected Freeze Ground the Select Best Pixels setting is greyed out. Obviously, you are getting good results with the Freeze Ground setting. I need to experiment with which setting works best for me. You may recall I wrote you earlier reporting my foreground edges are blurry, which makes blending difficult. Any insights you have will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot Bruce. It does appear that in simplifying the user interface of the Sequator software it removes some of the variations that other software provides. You will notice however that after you have moved the "Select Best Pixels" slider to the right it stays there .. albeit greyed out after applying the "Freeze Ground" button. Having said that the Freeze Ground button is the most important setting for these nightscapes. I think it is just a matter of getting the mask as close as possible to the foreground .. as I have said myself, it takes practice and I almost gave Sequator away after using it for the first time .. it was only after I'd tried it a few more times that I realised how good it can be. I have found that sometimes I have to do the mask again if it isn't right the first time. Hope that helps.
Thanks, Richard. My problems with Sequator began this year after several successful years of use. Maybe I need to do a deep dive into my settings and make sure they agree with what you have taught me. Really, appreciate your videos and your help...
Awesome video! Going to rewatch this when I go out and take my own images. I did have a question though: what light torch do you have or would recommend for light painting?
Yes you certainly can do that, but I never would as it's a bad habit to get into. White balance needs to be consistent between shots especially when stacking and blending.
Hi Richard I'm olive green with envy over your foreground subject matter, fantastic ! And the results are amazing. I have a question though, in your light painting videos I see you rendering star images in sequator for the sky which is fine but then I also see you take for example 8 exposures of the foreground but don't see how you stack them in sequator for noise reduction. I looked in sequator but couldn't see how to render foreground images.
Thanks so much. When you mask the sky and freeze the foreground in Sequator you are effectively reducing noise in both areas. On many occasions I don't use the foreground but if I want to it has the same properties applied as the sky. Hope that helps.
I struggle understanding where the Milky Way is at different times of the year. I do have Photo Pills but that seems to just confuse me more. Do you have a video or would you consider doing a video explaining the cycle of the Milky Way in the sky during the different seasons. I an in the US if that makes a difference.
Thanks for watching John. It's a common problem. I would suggest downloading Stellarium (the free desktop version). It's a really good tool for working out the sky. All you need do is set your location and it shows you exactly where all the stars are for any day of the year for that location. I will do something in a video about it sometime.
Thanks a lot for watching Tom. It's impossible to convey that exact detail but I can say that I usually use my torch at it's lower setting. If I look at the rear screen of the camera and it is too dull, I'll often do it again and simply light it for a bot longer. It's certainly more about art than science to be honest.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks! BTW, your videos are terrific! I have most of the camera concepts and LR figured out. PS is what I am concentrating on now. Your PS instruction is very thorough and easy to follow and comprehend. Keep up the good work.
Yes I do get lots of noise and that's why I'm stacking the milky way images for noise reduction using the Sequator program. It works very well. Thanks for watching.
@@zefrem1 I use a wireless shutter release so I don't have to keep going back to the camera. I have sometimes used focus peaking on the stars with my Z6. It works well but I also find with my fast aperture lenses that normal live view focusing is pretty accurate also.
@@zefrem1 The most basic is this one. www.ebay.com.au/itm/Remote-Shutter-Release-Cable-for-Nikon-D750-D610-D7200-D5500-D3300-D90-MC-DC2/122825078994?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1c98f1f8d2:g:4PkAAOSwkgZdEMFz&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qU2rpANYDCujwxln0OrngKhzx21ahWhJZX0VNfKNL0czGfR6ZSEiwW3cUcdD0FYjuQIK9gGxLIXxLBSMeTukaWbv3Pq1DhYMr6h00D%2BmeWxJEMvnSzC2o3v%2BhYsD5bktN5kAqzSW1Mb7%2B1aMfeBTMvT3tNVH8Uk8GVvQ3zKAXWeHGQiEr9v4itqpN5t9Z%2BN3FAsK%2BAaeB3CY9Nq4BFfkz4dENbRP%2FKpnwHnZUZFg0DuBtEH7g9VpXMeKi0IZ6PURGnscsch7%2F%2FU%2F6qKpz2azyFxKaDIsLPcImRbXI5Io4egiENhZawYaMDwydmphEZF9jLmgRaNISMlRAnZhT4iY0cnG0Pv0gmLANVEfgnShHaKfT%2FicXLknWawkSs00V3yzIaoW8zhb7o8wsLvEAoUBNK%2F5fY69H7u1RXOTbx5CNbjn3zr7HjhTDlUKGxdXyN8sC1LOrq%2B0WJyX5VL0TsSi0lD6e9fQct%2BpDWDzyLjYbSjz%2Fdx1BeXOqtZBsGm%2BNY0MpJ03skuUGlIwZjix9yXWgNHFc%2BeLdbMlRNIvJergFAw%2Bk3cyc5ct71NNajri0YLiyHREjsm3E8DtXVgCB5JE9TH3uEBUMqf6JNFL6yYwMsqTZEL6qF%2Bw%2B9HqlScp0wQvJYBUXwYoRDohzj5SV32221FuFbNSQXo65NqXssCO2vtAODx9FG273xczaWOyfLF4qVOKKZayUVVcyVL1tmIeOc77ydlc1rtreO%2FDuC6q5uOWJK4F6WM%2F7nhnSvwEFQrQpo%3D&checksum=1228250789945bbe4a514c4b42218d8c3c8e158491a1&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qU2rpANYDCujwxln0OrngKhzx21ahWhJZX0VNfKNL0czGfR6ZSEiwW3cUcdD0FYjuQIK9gGxLIXxLBSMeTukaWbv3Pq1DhYMr6h00D%2BmeWxJEMvnSzC2o3v%2BhYsD5bktN5kAqzSW1Mb7%2B1aMfeBTMvT3tNVH8Uk8GVvQ3zKAXWeHGQiEr9v4itqpN5t9Z%2BN3FAsK%2BAaeB3CY9Nq4BFfkz4dENbRP%2FKpnwHnZUZFg0DuBtEH7g9VpXMeKi0IZ6PURGnscsch7%2F%2FU%2F6qKpz2azyFxKaDIsLPcImRbXI5Io4egiENhZawYaMDwydmphEZF9jLmgRaNISMlRAnZhT4iY0cnG0Pv0gmLANVEfgnShHaKfT%2FicXLknWawkSs00V3yzIaoW8zhb7o8wsLvEAoUBNK%2F5fY69H7u1RXOTbx5CNbjn3zr7HjhTDlUKGxdXyN8sC1LOrq%2B0WJyX5VL0TsSi0lD6e9fQct%2BpDWDzyLjYbSjz%2Fdx1BeXOqtZBsGm%2BNY0MpJ03skuUGlIwZjix9yXWgNHFc%2BeLdbMlRNIvJergFAw%2Bk3cyc5ct71NNajri0YLiyHREjsm3E8DtXVgCB5JE9TH3uEBUMqf6JNFL6yYwMsqTZEL6qF%2Bw%2B9HqlScp0wQvJYBUXwYoRDohzj5SV32221FuFbNSQXo65NqXssCO2vtAODx9FG273xczaWOyfLF4qVOKKZayUVVcyVL1tmIeOc77ydlc1rtreO%2FDuC6q5uOWJK4F6WM%2F7nhnSvwEFQrQpo%3D&checksum=1228250789945bbe4a514c4b42218d8c3c8e158491a1&frcectupt=true
Hi Richard, sequator recommends to use the raw files.And does not recommend pre processing except vignetting. sites.google.com/site/sequatorglobal/manual Do you have better experiences with your workflow? Do you think the select best pixel option will acually work? Because as soon as you press freeze ground it is unchecked and greyed out. Could not figure out if it has an effect when you use freeze ground. Again what are your experiences? And one last question I experience that my generated stacked tiff files are bigger pixelwise. so the image has roughly 30 pixel or so more than the base images. And that extra strip got a lot hot pixel. Did you have trouble with that? I cant imagine that it is camera specific. This circumstances makes the aligning of the layers always a bit tricky. enough of those stupid questions ;-) this object is one of my favs in the new calendar btw Greetings and good night Steffen
That is all very interesting Steffen. I've never used raw files in sequator .. I like to do a little editing on mine first. I've never had the issue of larger pixel dimensions either. I think the freeze ground option renders the best pixel option unusable.
Great video Richard. I enjoy all of your videos. Keep up the great work.
Thanks so much Mike, really do appreciate you watching.
The Furphy guy could tell a tail,these barrels were dragged all over the gold fields
LOVE the cracked barrel end ,most have been removed and hang on a wall some were,I had one gave it to a old prospector down southern NSW
Great photo ,thank you
Yes they are amazing old tanks that's for sure. Really appreciate you watching Phillip.
Yes i appreciate the repetitive nature of your videos, layers in editing was a mystery to me, moving from top to bottom and adjusting the photo., I am learning ...slowly. Thanks Richard!
You're very welcome Colin, I appreciate you watching.
Another Masterpiece and a really educational video - like all the other ones - ...need no more words , but let me wish you all the best for 2020 full of health to see you again under the stars..you are the man..many thanks
Really appreciate your very kind words Zarcos, and all the very best to you also for 2020.
Another great video and final image.
Thanks so much Bob, your comments are very much appreciated.
I really appreciate the detailed repetition of the steps in each video. After watching many of your videos I am starting to understand the process. The best thing is you talk us through each menu step, which helps immensely. Thanks for being a GREAT inspiration.
It's really good to hear that Wildman Zen. I know I've been repeating myself endlessly but having comments like yours is great for me. Thanks so much.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Lots of us are not only new to nightscapes, but new to Photoshop and other tools. A simple process can turn frustrating when we miss a single menu step - "Where the heck was that control?" - and you do a great job, taking the time to show us the details rather than gloss over them. Thanks again.
@@erikhy Thanks again, yes that's really good feedback and one reason why I avoid keyboard shortcuts.
Another fantastic Video Richard Love em all.... on a side note have you considered uploading a few raw images from one of your shoots so we can follow on with your great tutorials - us poor photographers here in the UK very rarely see milky way in it's full glory in dark skies you have... would love to have a go with a proper milky way image - I feel sure lots of your other supporters would also like to have a go at editing such dark skies please keep up the good work best place to visit on you tube
Thanks a lot for watching Chris. It is something I've been asked a few times but at this stage I'm not sure about doing that .. I'll give it some more thought.
Absolutely brilliant. Thanks very much for these tutorials. The details in that image is just incredible. 👏👏👏👏
Really appreciate you watching Gavin, means a lot ..!!!
@@nightscapeimages.richard your most welcome Richard 🙏
Very enlightening, a great shot, thanks for the journey.
All the best............Peter.
Thanks a lot Peter, really appreciate your comments.
The good thing of most of your tutorials is you always repeats the setting and the basic things. The repetitive things are for learning IMO. please add more and more post process in 2020. Cheers
Thanks so much for watching my friend. I'll certainly do that.
Awesome, Richard! Thank you for once again explaining your workflow!
You're welcome Jorn, really appreciate you watching.
I really enjoying these videos you are doing ,
it's really helping me understand PS alot better,
when i normally I'm walking away and not returning for many months
I'm really pleased to hear that Malcolm. Thanks so much for watching.
Love this video! Have learned a few things, great final photo..thanks so much
Really appreciate you watching and thanks so much for commenting.
Thank you for sharing! I have learn a lot from your videos.I have a long list of shots for next year based on what you have shared. Thanks!
Really appreciate you watching Glidden, thanks so much.
Really! You’re the BEST ! 😍😍😍
You are really too kind Carole ...!!!
Out of the park! But, since that might not translate; Goooooaaaaaaalllllll!!!!!!!!! ;)
Many thanks indeed Steve, really appreciate you watching.
Simple subject with an amazing result. Hope to see more comming! Thanks for another great lesson!
Many thanks indeed Milorad, really appreciated as always.
Just fantastic. I love the simple way you explain how the editing is done. And by the way, its a great image. Thanks again.
Many thanks indeed for watching Ivo
Great video Richard Loved watching the whole process you used. I agree the final image looked fantastic! An old tank never looked so good 🙌 thanks for sharing the video and look forward to your next one 👍🙏
Really appreciate you watching Adrian, thanks so much for the comments.
Thanks again Richard for giving an easy to follow set of instructions so that we can easily apply these techniques to our own images. Your generosity is inspiring. I’m looking forward to your next video.
You are very welcome Dave. It's a pleasure to hear that people are a little inspired by my videos. Thanks for watching.
I’m loving the post processing videos. Thank you. 🙏
I'm really pleased to hear that Adrian, thanks so much for watching.
How cool something so simple made to look absolutely amazing, fantastic work mate really enjoying your videos.
Thanks heaps Brad, it's one of the things I'm continually challenging myself with .. finding great compositions from very simple and everyday subjects. Appreciate you watching.
Hurray, that a nice image you make! Thank you. The south mikyway in Norway is por, and the North part in more spred out, so i can learn to edit from you. Thanks, it not soooo easy, but i tro to fint alt thet funskjons you show. Thanks again!!
Thanks so much Tom, really appreciate you watching and commenting.
Love how simply you explained everything in this video, I used this process to finally do my first stacked Milky Way image in Sequator unfortunately I didn’t light up the Lighthouse I shot as a foreground, that will be my next project. Practicing light painting and capture the MW as well. I will always come back to this video now I know how easy it was. Thanks again Richard
Thanks so much for watching Mat, I'm pleased it was helpful.
Love your videos Richard. Everything from setup, light painting, equipment and editing work flow. The repetition is much appreciated, helps in understanding the process and the software. Your final images are so beautiful and truly something to emulate.
Thank you very much for the wonderful and encouraging comments Donald. It's so good to hear this feedback and largely why I'm doing what I do. Really appreciated.
hands down, this is one of the best channels on TH-cam for photography! I really like your work. I just upgraded to D750 and I am looking for a nice lens to take my first Milky Way shots. I am looking for second-hand Nikkor 20mm f1.8 (D or G) but as always this gear can be expensive for a hobby. Cheers from Lebanon!
Thanks so much Ali for your kind words. I'll be very keen to see how you go with the D750.
Like always amazing work!!!
Thanks very much for watching.
I really liked the composition of this image, with the overall simplicity being masked by the writing and split on the tank dominating the foreground. Another educational video professionally produced. Many thanks.
Always really appreciate your insights Three-phase, thanks heaps for watching.
Beautiful Image and very impressive to to see your fast and straight forward editing.
Thanks so much my friend, really appreciate you watching my videos.
fantastic ! 1000 thANKS for your work !
I'm so pleased you like it, thanks again for watching.
Brilliant as usual. Thanks for posting.
Glad you like it Tony, thanks for watching.
The text on the end of the tank responds beautifully to your light painting technique Richard, with the resulting shadows throwing the letters into sharp relief. This makes the image for me, along with that beautiful MW backdrop! If only the core stretched out across the sky like that here in the UK...
Looking forward to the last couple of videos in this excellent series :]
Many thanks indeed Paul. Yes the milky way is amazing when stretched out like that later in the year.
Hi Richard, beauty from simplicity. Stunning!
I'm so pleased you like it Ivan, thanks a lot for watching and leaving a comment.
Just want to compliment you on the educational quality of your channel. Very well done.
Really kind of you to comment Joe, thanks so much for watching.
Great video once again Richard content pitched at a level that’s easy to follow, cheers Carl
Really appreciate your very encouraging comments Carl, thanks again.
Fantastic! Do you ever add noise, dark,flat or vignetting images to sequator?
Thanks for watching Mike. I have added dark frames in the past but to be honest I wasn't able to see any difference so I don't bother now.
Thank you for such detailed discussions, I look forward to your new content.
Really appreciate you watching, thanks so much.
Fantastic video, as always.
Thanks so much for watching again Jose
@@nightscapeimages.richard Gracias a tí por tus magníficas clases.
Son clases magistrales de fotografía nocturna. 😉
Great video, thanks for sharing!!
I really appreciate you watching Marco, thanks so much.
Very helpful and inspiring.
As always I appreciate you watching.
Thanks, you did a great job explaining your process. I wish the Milky Way was visible because I want to go out and practice what I learned.
Thanks a lot Nick. Yes it will be a few months before we see the core again .. but the techniques will still work for any nightscape. Really appreciate your comments.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Here in the USA, in central Illinois we expecting clear skies Tuesday and Wednesday next week, although it will be about 28F / -2C I might give it a try. I know where some old grain silos and another site with an old barn that I've shot the Milky Way this past summer.
@@nicknichols4249 That sounds like a fantastic spot Nick .. all the best with it.
You make it look so easy.
Thanks for watching Spence, as you know .. it all comes down to lots of practice.
Richard, great video. Learn, learn, learn a lot from you
Really appreciate your comments Andre. Thanks for watching.
Another masterpiece. Thank you for sharing. I enjoyed every second of the video. 👍
I'm really pleased to hear that, thanks so much for watching.
In your preview shot the other day I thought the water tank was big
Fantastic Richard 👍👍👍
Thanks Brian, yes it's all due to the composition. When you lower the camera the foreground takes more prominence in the photo.
Fantastic tutorial again Richard. Just one small point I have noticed with this and other tutorials - in sequator when you are selecting COMPUTING options, you choose select best pixels and move the slider right over to the right - then you choose FREEZE GROUND - I notice the radio button goes away from select best pixels and onto freeze ground - which I think ignores select best pixels - since we have chosen freeze ground ? So selecting best pixels is not necessary. I could be wrong but I would like your advice on the matter. Many thanks and keep the amazing enthusiasm and brilliant inspiring videos coming.
Thanks so much for watching Paul, really appreciate it. I'm not 100% certain myself on this but you will notice that when you Select Best Pixels and slide to the right and then select Freeze Ground .. the Select Best Pixels although greyed out remains all the way to the right. My assumption is that perhaps it is still doing something but of course only the developer of the software would really know. To be honest I've tried it both ways and don't really notice any difference so in the end it probably isn't necessary.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Hi Richard - thank you for replying. My thoughts on the developer are that he is absolutely brilliant producing such a clever application like Sequator. With such a talent and obvious programming skill, I would thing he knows the difference between a CHECK BOX and a RADIAL BUTTON. He would have given us a check boxes, to select one or more items in a panel, and used a radial button to select one out of a bunch of other options.
I'm sure you know, but others reading these comments may not, that a radio button works like the old Radios, and nearing 60 yrs I remember owning one. Press a button in for say RADIO 1 and if RADIO 3 was tuned in, out popped its button as RADIO 1 went in. That's a radio button. Press a button and the previously selected button pops out. With a Radio button its only 1 selection from a bunch of possible options. As you quite correctly point out with the settings in Sequator, the best pixels selection is not doing anything when we select Freeze ground. Thanks for clearing this up for me.
I've been all over youtube like a rash !! learning from many people but none are so easy to follow as you. I have followed many methods from others on Astro Photography but I always end up coming back to you as your explanations and techniques are so quick, simple and are easily implemented.
Keep up the good work.
Maybe one day you may advise on blending my Tracker night skies with a fixed light painted foreground. I've managed to do it but my head is melting with such complicated Photoshop techniques.
Really good info there Paul. I know that head melting feeling regarding blending tracked sky with foreground. It's an absolute nightmare when trees are involved. That's why I stack my images as it sits well with my workflow. Thanks so much for your kind words, I really do appreciate it.
I really like how you worked out the composition to give the illusion of a larger tank with equal emphasis on both the tank and sky, a great perspective! I'd like to try the 35mm 1.8 Nikon lens in the future it would be interesting to see how it performs?
Thanks heaps Leigh. Yes I always like to give equal emphasis on the foreground and milky way … the lower the tripod is to the ground the more the foreground element will become prominent. Do you have the full frame Nikon 35mm f1.8 …??
@@nightscapeimages.richard It worked beautifully, looks awesome as always! Yes, both the 35 & 50 so l will give the 35mm a try down the track as l can definitely see how useful it could have been in some of my previous images, plus mixing it up to bring home something abit different is always good 😁
@@Madieisacutie. Awesome Leigh. I really like using the longer focal length lenses.
another beauty! The text on that barrel really makes the image special.
Thanks so much for watching mitymous1, it's really appreciated.
@@nightscapeimages.richard You're in my top tier of always-watch channels, Richard.
@@mitymous1 Thanks so much for your support.
Great work Richard! Greetings from Uruguay
Thanks so much for watching Flavio, really appreciated.
I loved this. Thank You!
Really appreciate you tuning in Roger, thank you.
Another superb video and tutorial. This is just what I needed. I'm a Mac user and now have SLS installed. One question: when the images are being stacked in software, how does it deal with the fact that the sky has "moved" during the sequence? I know how it aligns, but what about the stars that creep into the scene during the exposure sequence.....how are they stacked? Does it just crop these edges out?
Fantastic video, brilliantly presented and enthusiastically delivered. The best tutorials on TH-cam. Thanks again.
Thanks as always Simon. Yes I believe it will stack what it sees .. .even if they are not in all of the images. It would take a far higher intellect than mine to explain the complications of software that's for sure ...!!!
I'll second Wildman Zen's comments - thanks!
Thanks so much Theresa, I'm so glad you find these videos helpful.
good photo
Thanks so much for watching my friend.
Thank you for your videos. I really enjoy them. I have started taking Milky Way photos this year. Some are looking pretty good. But most have too much noise. I am using a Canon 70D with a crop sensor. Would a full frame DSLR be better for night photography? Thanks.
I'm so pleased you enjoy the videos and thanks for watching. As a general rule a full frame camera with a good lens will have less noise than your crop camera. You can get less noise if you stack your images as per the workflow here in this video. If you get a chance to try it I'll be keen to see how you go.
Hello again Richard. One other question I had here. At 3:34 of the video you said that you're using a lower shutter speed because of the longer focal length. Why is that? I've always thought that the relationship between the two pertained to avoiding camera shake. If you're on a tripod then I am missing why you're doing that. Thanks!
Thanks so much for watching Tom. When shooting nightscapes the stars are moving due to the rotation of the earth, therefore if your shutter speed is too long you'll notice the stars are not dots but rather small streaks. This is exaggerated when shooting at longer focal lengths because of the greater magnification so I have to keep the shutter speed shorter. Hope that makes sense.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Perfect sense! Thanks again.
Hi Richard, beautiful work as always! When you have your sky images in Lightroom and you tell us that you normally apply a few corrections like exposure etc to your image, do you apply this same adjustment to all the sky images (10-12) or just to the first one? And if so, is there a quick way in Lightroom to copy the adjustments of one image to multiple? Thanks!
Thanks a lot Nick. Yes I apply the same adjustments to all the layers. All you do is highlight the first one .. then hold down shift and click on the last one. This will select all the layers you want to adjust. Then over on the bottom right of the screen you press Sync .. It will ask you to check all .. do that and then all the image settings are copied to all the other layers.
Nightscape Images thanks very much Richard! Loving the videos, you’re really reigniting my love of photography, and I can’t wait to get out and shoot my first starry sky! Any plans to come to the UK and do workshops?
@@nbotham Thanks again Nick. I don't have any plans for a trip to the UK at this stage. Maybe some day.
I love your videos. They are one of the reasons I have bought a Canon M50 so I can learn photography. Can you tell me if with the 15-45 kit lens this camera comes, I can do the same? What could be the best settings? Thanks from Portugal
Thanks so much. I'd suggest putting the lens at 15mm as it's f3.5 at that spot. Then set your shutter speed to about 20 seconds. Put your iso at 1600-3200. Manually focus on a bright star. And see what you get. You can check out my other videos as I go through lots of different techniques and scenarios for shooting.
Hi Richard..another great video. Wish you showed how you lit the tank. Was it one continuous light for each side or partial light in 10 sec.?
One more question..how long did you pause between 12 star shots?
Thanks for all..cheers.
Thanks very much Mehmet. I used a short amount of light from each side. Probably about 5 seconds from the right side, then on the next exposure about 5 seconds from the left. I have 1 second between all my 12 star shots. In other words they are continually shooting.
Thanks Richard, another great tutorial. Snatched some shots in mid November, will process these with your settings and see how we go. Had 30mins of night sky to get the Milky Way.
BTW I was going to try getting the Milky Way directly over Spencer's Gulf looking south west. low in the sky. Is that possible or is there too much light pollution over the ocean?? Thanks
Thanks heaps Greg. I'm not really familiar with the Spencers Gulf area. Is there much population over to the west of there ..?? Anyway, you'll not see the milky way core these days as it's too close to the sun at sunset. The ocean is usually a good setting for the core though.
Thanks. I'll try that next winter
Thanks Richard, I'm having difficulty in saving Sequator to my windows 10. Not sure if I have to disable antivirus first.
I always . it could well be the anti virus. Keep trying .. I have downloaded it recently to a windows 10 machine and I'm running Trend Micro anti virus.
Hello Richard, I am spending my lockdown time watching and studying your videos. Time well-spent in my estimation. A couple of quick questions...Does Sequator allow you to use a Wacom tablet for more precise masking of the stars? Also, at 3:36 you mention that you're using a higher shutter speed because of the longer focal length. Why is that? I may have asked this same question before, but I must embarrass myself and ask again. Thanks!
Thanks so much for watching Tom. No problem asking questions. Due to the rotation of the earth the stars appear to move through the sky. This is why our shutter speeds are limited when shooting the milky way. As you increase the focal length you will notice the apparent movement increases so therefore that shutter speed must be less. This is why you can shoot longer shutter speeds with a 14mm lens than a 35mm lens for example. As far as I know you can use a wacom with Sequator.
@@nightscapeimages.richard More watching and studying today of many of your videos. Hoping to get through many of them during our time stuck in the house. How are you arriving at your various ISO settings?
Thanks for the tutorial, that image is fantastic. One question though, I've been using Cyberlink Photodirector for my photo editing as I got it in a package deal a few years ago. I want to upgrade to a more popular, better software that's cheaper then Lightroom and Photoshop, as i don't have the money for those at the moment and I'm looking at getting Darktable or Afinity. Do you think either of them would do as great a job of blending and editing as the Adobe products do.
Hi MrBooojangles. I haven't used either of those programs so I have no first hand knowledge. This article might be helpful to you. Thanks so much for watching.
I've used Affinity and can confirm it's fabulous for editing milky way photos. However, it's nowhere near as good as Lightroom/Photoshop 👍👍👍
@Nightscape Images Question regarding focusing on your tank. After shooting stars do you refocus on your tank or leave focus alone throughout all photos? Thanks so much, very helpful clip. Will be using your knowledge while out in the field tomorrow night
Thanks for watching Jonathan. If the subject is very close then I do re-focus on it to make sure it's sharp. In this case I certainly did. Especially as I was using a 35mm focal length lens. If using a very wide angle lens and if the foreground is a fair way away from the camera, then I'll often not need to re-focus. By stopping the aperture of the lens down to shoot the foreground you are actually increasing the depth of field and therefore the in focus" areas of the shot.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thank you for the reply. I'll def. keep that in mind tonight when I go out. Hope to pull it off half as good you did with your work
Surprise to see another fantastic video on the subject, in the month of December! Just wondering do you provide lower res sample images for us to follow and practise the steps that you have shown us? I know it is a big ask....
Thanks as always for your support Raymond. Unfortunately I don't provide copies of my files .. it can be a good thing but there will always be someone who does the wrong thing. If I had a payed course then it would be different but I don't at this point in time.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I understand where you are coming from. Thanks all the same.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Well done !
@@hanswi336 Thank you Hans
Hi Richard another great image! A couple of questions. I’m over in the UK and we seem to have very few occasions when the Galactic centre is above the horizon and even when it is only reaches about 10 degrees maximum above horizon. Do you have the same problems there? Watching your videos it doesn’t seem as if you do. Do you take images when the core isn’t visible? Secondly I seem to remember you mentioning star trackers in the past but never seem to use one. I’ve tried tracking and successfully tracked 3 minute exposures but the Milky Way moves so much when doing multiple 3 minute exposures it plays havoc with the foreground and found it hard to blend in a separate foreground image. Would love it if you could give some advice or perhaps able to cover this in one of your videos. As a footnote I was using an Olympus OMD EM5 to capture images and was aiming to take multiple long exposures to help get around noise caused by smaller sensor. keep up the good work would love to come over one day and attend one of your workshops
Hi Donald, thank you so much for watching. You have raised some very good and relevant questions. Firstly, because I live in the southern part of Australia I'm seeing the milky way a lot higher overhead than you will in the UK. That's why it looks vastly different in my images at different times of the year. In the middle of July the core of the milky way is directly overhead here. Secondly I do take images when the core is not around. See this video: th-cam.com/video/yaJG1Ar-BbE/w-d-xo.html
I do have a star tracker but I rarely use it for the very reasons you have articulated .. it's a nightmare to blend foregrounds .. especially trees. That's the main reason I prefer the stacking approach using Sequator. There is no doubt that the tracker will give wonderful results for the stars but for widefield nightscapes that's only half the image. Most people who you will see using them a lot are generally shooting in landscape that have flat or well defined horizons .. .we don't have much of that over here in Australia. There are forests and trees everywhere, even on the mountains.
You can use the methods outlined in this video with your EM5 to capture the stars .. no worries at all. I hope that helps a bit but unfortunately I can't do anything about the UK weather or lack of milky way .. .sorry.
Hi Richard. Thank you for replying, especially so promptly. I’ll add a visit down under to see you on my bucket list :-) one last question. Other than picking random locations on photopills to see where optimum locations are do you know how I might be able to find locations that closer to home? Thanks again
@@donaldhart730 Well to be honest Donald I find the old fashioned method of getting in the car and driving around the countryside to be the most valuable. It has the added benefit of getting me out of the house ...!!! I only really use photopills when I'm on location already. I don't tend to use it as a planning tool from home.
Richard, I am so happy you are doing this series and I am delighted you demonstrated Sequator. However, I am confused a bit. In your settings for Sequator, you clicked on the "Select Best Pixels" button and then moved the slider to its most strict point. You then went to the next level down and selected "Freeze Ground." It appears these two settings cannot be done simultaneously. When you selected Freeze Ground the Select Best Pixels setting is greyed out. Obviously, you are getting good results with the Freeze Ground setting. I need to experiment with which setting works best for me. You may recall I wrote you earlier reporting my foreground edges are blurry, which makes blending difficult. Any insights you have will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot Bruce. It does appear that in simplifying the user interface of the Sequator software it removes some of the variations that other software provides. You will notice however that after you have moved the "Select Best Pixels" slider to the right it stays there .. albeit greyed out after applying the "Freeze Ground" button. Having said that the Freeze Ground button is the most important setting for these nightscapes. I think it is just a matter of getting the mask as close as possible to the foreground .. as I have said myself, it takes practice and I almost gave Sequator away after using it for the first time .. it was only after I'd tried it a few more times that I realised how good it can be. I have found that sometimes I have to do the mask again if it isn't right the first time. Hope that helps.
Thanks, Richard. My problems with Sequator began this year after several successful years of use. Maybe I need to do a deep dive into my settings and make sure they agree with what you have taught me. Really, appreciate your videos and your help...
Maybe you could download the latest version Bruce. I did that recently and they have changed a few things.
Awesome video! Going to rewatch this when I go out and take my own images. I did have a question though: what light torch do you have or would recommend for light painting?
Thanks heaps for watching Nic. I use the LED Lenser P7.2 for light painting.
Could I use Auto white balance while shooting this light painting milky way ? and do the white balance adjustment in the post process.
Yes you certainly can do that, but I never would as it's a bad habit to get into. White balance needs to be consistent between shots especially when stacking and blending.
Nightscape Images thanks I will do what you suggest
Hi Richard I'm olive green with envy over your foreground subject matter, fantastic ! And the results are amazing. I have a question though, in your light painting videos I see you rendering star images in sequator for the sky which is fine but then I also see you take for example 8 exposures of the foreground but don't see how you stack them in sequator for noise reduction. I looked in sequator but couldn't see how to render foreground images.
Thanks so much. When you mask the sky and freeze the foreground in Sequator you are effectively reducing noise in both areas. On many occasions I don't use the foreground but if I want to it has the same properties applied as the sky. Hope that helps.
I struggle understanding where the Milky Way is at different times of the year. I do have Photo Pills but that seems to just confuse me more. Do you have a video or would you consider doing a video explaining the cycle of the Milky Way in the sky during the different seasons. I an in the US if that makes a difference.
Thanks for watching John. It's a common problem. I would suggest downloading Stellarium (the free desktop version). It's a really good tool for working out the sky. All you need do is set your location and it shows you exactly where all the stars are for any day of the year for that location. I will do something in a video about it sometime.
One detail I may have missed, but how important is the strength of the light you paint with? Do you have an adjustable torch?
Thanks a lot for watching Tom. It's impossible to convey that exact detail but I can say that I usually use my torch at it's lower setting. If I look at the rear screen of the camera and it is too dull, I'll often do it again and simply light it for a bot longer. It's certainly more about art than science to be honest.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks! BTW, your videos are terrific! I have most of the camera concepts and LR figured out. PS is what I am concentrating on now. Your PS instruction is very thorough and easy to follow and comprehend. Keep up the good work.
@@tomthunem3444 Many thanks indeed Tom
When you set the camera at a high ISO (anything over 3200), wouldn't you get a picture with very high noise? How do you compensate for this?
Yes I do get lots of noise and that's why I'm stacking the milky way images for noise reduction using the Sequator program. It works very well. Thanks for watching.
Wow, that is what this video is all about.
Does that 35mm sigma lens fit with the adaptor on the z6, because I've got the same camera
Yes it sure does zefram. Everything works well including auto focus.
@@nightscapeimages.richard the 10 seconds shutter, do you use a timer or an automatic remote control, also do you use focus peaking on the stars
@@zefrem1 I use a wireless shutter release so I don't have to keep going back to the camera. I have sometimes used focus peaking on the stars with my Z6. It works well but I also find with my fast aperture lenses that normal live view focusing is pretty accurate also.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks fella I'm looking for a remote shutter on a cable can you recommend one
@@zefrem1 The most basic is this one. www.ebay.com.au/itm/Remote-Shutter-Release-Cable-for-Nikon-D750-D610-D7200-D5500-D3300-D90-MC-DC2/122825078994?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1c98f1f8d2:g:4PkAAOSwkgZdEMFz&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qU2rpANYDCujwxln0OrngKhzx21ahWhJZX0VNfKNL0czGfR6ZSEiwW3cUcdD0FYjuQIK9gGxLIXxLBSMeTukaWbv3Pq1DhYMr6h00D%2BmeWxJEMvnSzC2o3v%2BhYsD5bktN5kAqzSW1Mb7%2B1aMfeBTMvT3tNVH8Uk8GVvQ3zKAXWeHGQiEr9v4itqpN5t9Z%2BN3FAsK%2BAaeB3CY9Nq4BFfkz4dENbRP%2FKpnwHnZUZFg0DuBtEH7g9VpXMeKi0IZ6PURGnscsch7%2F%2FU%2F6qKpz2azyFxKaDIsLPcImRbXI5Io4egiENhZawYaMDwydmphEZF9jLmgRaNISMlRAnZhT4iY0cnG0Pv0gmLANVEfgnShHaKfT%2FicXLknWawkSs00V3yzIaoW8zhb7o8wsLvEAoUBNK%2F5fY69H7u1RXOTbx5CNbjn3zr7HjhTDlUKGxdXyN8sC1LOrq%2B0WJyX5VL0TsSi0lD6e9fQct%2BpDWDzyLjYbSjz%2Fdx1BeXOqtZBsGm%2BNY0MpJ03skuUGlIwZjix9yXWgNHFc%2BeLdbMlRNIvJergFAw%2Bk3cyc5ct71NNajri0YLiyHREjsm3E8DtXVgCB5JE9TH3uEBUMqf6JNFL6yYwMsqTZEL6qF%2Bw%2B9HqlScp0wQvJYBUXwYoRDohzj5SV32221FuFbNSQXo65NqXssCO2vtAODx9FG273xczaWOyfLF4qVOKKZayUVVcyVL1tmIeOc77ydlc1rtreO%2FDuC6q5uOWJK4F6WM%2F7nhnSvwEFQrQpo%3D&checksum=1228250789945bbe4a514c4b42218d8c3c8e158491a1&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qU2rpANYDCujwxln0OrngKhzx21ahWhJZX0VNfKNL0czGfR6ZSEiwW3cUcdD0FYjuQIK9gGxLIXxLBSMeTukaWbv3Pq1DhYMr6h00D%2BmeWxJEMvnSzC2o3v%2BhYsD5bktN5kAqzSW1Mb7%2B1aMfeBTMvT3tNVH8Uk8GVvQ3zKAXWeHGQiEr9v4itqpN5t9Z%2BN3FAsK%2BAaeB3CY9Nq4BFfkz4dENbRP%2FKpnwHnZUZFg0DuBtEH7g9VpXMeKi0IZ6PURGnscsch7%2F%2FU%2F6qKpz2azyFxKaDIsLPcImRbXI5Io4egiENhZawYaMDwydmphEZF9jLmgRaNISMlRAnZhT4iY0cnG0Pv0gmLANVEfgnShHaKfT%2FicXLknWawkSs00V3yzIaoW8zhb7o8wsLvEAoUBNK%2F5fY69H7u1RXOTbx5CNbjn3zr7HjhTDlUKGxdXyN8sC1LOrq%2B0WJyX5VL0TsSi0lD6e9fQct%2BpDWDzyLjYbSjz%2Fdx1BeXOqtZBsGm%2BNY0MpJ03skuUGlIwZjix9yXWgNHFc%2BeLdbMlRNIvJergFAw%2Bk3cyc5ct71NNajri0YLiyHREjsm3E8DtXVgCB5JE9TH3uEBUMqf6JNFL6yYwMsqTZEL6qF%2Bw%2B9HqlScp0wQvJYBUXwYoRDohzj5SV32221FuFbNSQXo65NqXssCO2vtAODx9FG273xczaWOyfLF4qVOKKZayUVVcyVL1tmIeOc77ydlc1rtreO%2FDuC6q5uOWJK4F6WM%2F7nhnSvwEFQrQpo%3D&checksum=1228250789945bbe4a514c4b42218d8c3c8e158491a1&frcectupt=true
Whats the softweres name, that you used? Cant fins it.
Thanks for watching Andreas. I think you mean Sequator. It's for windows only.
Nightscape Images thanks 👍
Do you have any of your images shared for desktop backgrounds?
Not at this stage. Appreciate you watching.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I would recommend selling a few digital prints for desktop backgrounds.
Hi Richard,
sequator recommends to use the raw files.And does not recommend pre processing except vignetting.
sites.google.com/site/sequatorglobal/manual
Do you have better experiences with your workflow?
Do you think the select best pixel option will acually work? Because as soon as you press freeze ground it is unchecked and greyed out.
Could not figure out if it has an effect when you use freeze ground.
Again what are your experiences?
And one last question
I experience that my generated stacked tiff files are bigger pixelwise.
so the image has roughly 30 pixel or so more than the base images. And that extra strip got a lot hot pixel. Did you have trouble with that? I cant imagine that it is camera specific.
This circumstances makes the aligning of the layers always a bit tricky.
enough of those stupid questions ;-)
this object is one of my favs in the new calendar btw
Greetings and good night Steffen
That is all very interesting Steffen. I've never used raw files in sequator .. I like to do a little editing on mine first. I've never had the issue of larger pixel dimensions either. I think the freeze ground option renders the best pixel option unusable.