No ! this person isn't a master loader and has no idea that case annealing must be done by using water in a pan to drop hot casings in water to deprive Oxygen to the brass and done this way hardens the brass the same as heat from the powder burn hardens the cases. You want to talk to a master Reloader the just as me because since 1976 I have been a reloader and for 30 years been building custom rifles in wildcat cartridges that takes using one kind of cartridge converted to a nonstandard wildcat reloading cartridge that does need annealing. Any old machinist knows how to soften metal and it sure isn't what you see in the video. This kind of person reloading is where heard over and over someone fired someone's reloads and blew up a gun !
Wow! That is pretty cool...the right tools and your sweat equity and scrap brass becomes .243 brass....you can't beat that! The annealing tool is cool but when you showed the deburing part...wow! Way cool!!
If you buy a 7mm 08 die and a 260 rem die and use those to step the neck down it works with much better results, no crush necks/shoulders. I think it's best to anneel after you get it down to 243. I have been making 243 out of 308 for the last 40 years. If you have a push down from the top neck sizer it's better just to use that in the last step to size the neck to 260. Full length sizing dies keep any bulging at the shoulder body junction under control from sizing down the neck diameter. A neck sizer will allow some bulging at the bottom of the shoulder
@@arectechafterwork9772 you can adjust a regular resizing die so just the expander ball resizes the inside of the neck without squeezing the neck down in the die. Pulling the expander ball through the neck after the neck has been sized causes a lot of case stretching. Causing you to have to trim brass more often.
Whenever you neck down brass like that it leaves a non perfectly-formed shoulder. But I normally can get sub-moa groups before the brass is even fire formed. So do not burn up good bullets and powder and primers just to fireform brass. In fact I get better groups with non fireform brass than most of these TH-camrs I see shooting $2 a piece brass that is fire formed.
*Dollar General 9x11 cake pan-$2.00...The cheapest plumber's torch I can find-$12...Ice water for bottom of cake pan-Free...The giggle I get from watching these Gadget Fools waste money---PRICELESS*
The pan with water is not even necessary if you just heat the necks up till they start to turn red. Controlling how long you hold the torch and where you hold the torch works fine with no water
This is all wrong way to anneal brass because what is happening is heating and not cooling with in water and no oxygen is causing the brass to harden the same as the heat from powder burn heats the brass hardening the brass. Properly annealing is done when the heated brass is dumped into a water in a pan to be no Oxygen and cool fast. This is a constant ignorance I see in reloading video's this same stupid ignorance being done. It is well known from machinist how to soften metal by heat and depriving the metal of Oxygen and cooling my grandfather a jurymen machinist showed me this when I was in my teens, and I am now 63 yrs old. I now build and sell very specialized AR 10 uppers in wildcat cartridges & WSM cartridges I must make the cartridges from other casings and heat treating is often required.
Correct on all accounts. I’ve got a question; What about necking up..like way up.? I run a 338 RCM and have but 500 pieces of new brass. The 338 RCN differs slightly from the 300 RCM..this is important to note being that it is the parent to the 6.5 PRC. Can I convert the 6.5 PRC to the 338 RCM.?
You are the master reloader. 1st time I see anneal machine with complete debur 😮❤
Thanks! 😊 I don't believe I ever saw one either. Just stumbled on it while browsing.
No ! this person isn't a master loader and has no idea that case annealing must be done by using water in a pan to drop hot casings in water to deprive Oxygen to the brass and done this way hardens the brass the same as heat from the powder burn hardens the cases.
You want to talk to a master Reloader the just as me because since 1976 I have been a reloader and for 30 years been building custom rifles in wildcat cartridges that takes using one kind of cartridge converted to a nonstandard wildcat reloading cartridge that does need annealing.
Any old machinist knows how to soften metal and it sure isn't what you see in the video.
This kind of person reloading is where heard over and over someone fired someone's reloads and blew up a gun !
I did enjoy watching your video and the steps involved. The Burstfire annealing and case prep center is one fancy time saver.
Have a Merry Christmas.
Thanks! I appreciate that! I hope you have a wonderful Christmas and don't forget the reason for the season. 😊
Wow! That is pretty cool...the right tools and your sweat equity and scrap brass becomes .243 brass....you can't beat that! The annealing tool is cool but when you showed the deburing part...wow! Way cool!!
Thanks! I thought it was a fun project and the annealing / case prep machine is very nice. 😊
That was quite the project! Lots of steps (especially to do it properly or to get the best results). 👍
Thanks! Yes, it was a bit involved but sure beats going to the range in this Arctic blast. 😊
Great video, thanks for sharing! Nice to see your project!
Thanks! I appreciate that! 😊
i enjoyed this video thanks for sharing and please have a great day
Thanks! I appreciate that! 😊
If you buy a 7mm 08 die and a 260 rem die and use those to step the neck down it works with much better results, no crush necks/shoulders. I think it's best to anneel after you get it down to 243. I have been making 243 out of 308 for the last 40 years. If you have a push down from the top neck sizer it's better just to use that in the last step to size the neck to 260. Full length sizing dies keep any bulging at the shoulder body junction under control from sizing down the neck diameter. A neck sizer will allow some bulging at the bottom of the shoulder
Thanks for the tips! 😊😊
@@arectechafterwork9772 you can adjust a regular resizing die so just the expander ball resizes the inside of the neck without squeezing the neck down in the die. Pulling the expander ball through the neck after the neck has been sized causes a lot of case stretching. Causing you to have to trim brass more often.
Whenever you neck down brass like that it leaves a non perfectly-formed shoulder. But I normally can get sub-moa groups before the brass is even fire formed. So do not burn up good bullets and powder and primers just to fireform brass. In fact I get better groups with non fireform brass than most of these TH-camrs I see shooting $2 a piece brass that is fire formed.
I love that brass prep station did you make it yourself?
Thanks! I bought it. 😊
*Dollar General 9x11 cake pan-$2.00...The cheapest plumber's torch I can find-$12...Ice water for bottom of cake pan-Free...The giggle I get from watching these Gadget Fools waste money---PRICELESS*
The pan with water is not even necessary if you just heat the necks up till they start to turn red. Controlling how long you hold the torch and where you hold the torch works fine with no water
Makes sure you turn the out side of the necks. The neck thickness will to thick, going from 308 to 243 . I just finish a batch of nearly 100.
Thanks for the tip!
What about reaming the neck?
This is all wrong way to anneal brass because what is happening is heating and not cooling with in water and no oxygen is causing the brass to harden the same as the heat from powder burn heats the brass hardening the brass.
Properly annealing is done when the heated brass is dumped into a water in a pan to be no Oxygen and cool fast.
This is a constant ignorance I see in reloading video's this same stupid ignorance being done.
It is well known from machinist how to soften metal by heat and depriving the metal of Oxygen and cooling my grandfather a jurymen machinist showed me this when I was in my teens, and I am now 63 yrs old.
I now build and sell very specialized AR 10 uppers in wildcat cartridges & WSM cartridges I must make the cartridges from other casings and heat treating is often required.
Correct on all accounts.
I’ve got a question;
What about necking up..like way up.?
I run a 338 RCM and have but 500 pieces of new brass.
The 338 RCN differs slightly from the 300 RCM..this is important to note being that it is the parent to the 6.5 PRC.
Can I convert the 6.5 PRC to the 338 RCM.?