Bow Torque: Tuning NIGHTMARE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2024
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You’re a fantastic teacher, man...clear, concise, and passionate...keep it up!
Thank you for another great video. I've been an archer for over 30 years and I check out your instructional videos to keep me sharp. Over time it's possible to get too lax and pick up bad habits. Your videos are great reminders of fundamentals that I may have developed slight issues with over time.
I was bare shaft tuning new arrows. Trying the ranch fairy method for building arrows etc. I thought I was wayyyy over spined. I had huge nock right flight. I was surprised the arrows actually stuck in the target they were flying so far nock right.
Thought I messed up and got the wrong arrows etc.
I was shooting 250 spine arrows with 300 grains at the point. 65lbs draw weight.
I got out my old 340 spine FMJ arrows with 150 gains at the point.... stripped the fletching off an arrow. Still nock right.
Got out the first arrows I bought. 400 spine. 100 grains at the point. Bare shaft. Still nock right.
I thought this is impossible. It’s got to be the bow.
One time while I was drawn back I looked down the arrow and could clearly see how off center it was. That was the big “ah hah” moment.
I “torqued” the bow back until the arrow was going straight down the rest and shot. Perfect flight. Couldn’t believe it was me the whole time. Lol. Embarrassing.
But THAT'S the reason I made the video! Simple little fix and you're shooting perfect. Sometimes it's not the bow and arrow that need the tuning!!!
Wow. Never would have guessed it would be that significant
I’m so happy I found this video. I HAD thought my grip was good, but I am getting consistently right nock tears. But, I’m realizing that just releasing the bottom three fingers on my grip hand doesn’t remove the torque. I’ll be working on this for a while to before I starting moving everything on my bow!
Thank you for the video, AJA.
Another Awesome direct to the point video! Keep them coming!
I no kinda off topic but I just got the ezv in today, took me ten minutes to replace my black gold single pin and 15 minutes to site in. Never going back to pins, and so far have not missed left or right of bulls eye. Will never go back to pins!
Thanks for the quick tip, I can definitely see how that can be issue for many of us. I try to focus on my grip, bubble level, anchor point then the target. I still end up having issues with point of impact no matter how many times I move my sight housing or pins.
This is a winner..! Iv been struggling with a right nock bear shaft and I have my sight and rest WAY left and it’s consistent and bear shafting good now but it’s just not right as Center shot is so far off to the left.. I will definitely be working on my grip now and thanks to this vid it’s confirmed my suspicions..!
Great video! I just got my Ranch Fairy test kit as well! 👍🏼
Subscribed! Love this tuning stuff!
You kinda remind me of demolition ranch , with your teaching skills. Bravo
Wow I just spent the whole day doing all those little towels to my rest and sight and the whole time it was my grip 😅 thanks for all the great videos man!!!
You're so welcome!
Another great video! Thanks
i never had an issue with this until i shot my new V3 31 for the first time. ive been shooting my elite hunter for 2 years
What I noticed is that some bows are more grip sensitive that others, particularly Elite bows I had (Terrain, Enkore) were super sensitive, but my Hoyt VTM does even care how I grip it, provided my fingers are relaxed and not actually twisting the riser.
Thx for reminding 👌
Fought with tuning for 4 months, thought my bow was a loss, turns out it was grip. Thank you, finally getting tuned
Fantastic!!!
I had a shoulder injury 2 yrs ago and didn't shoot a bow until Jan this yr. And to top it off I sold my hoyt faktor and bought a axius ultra with a new sight, rest and im also using a thumb release. So it's basically like starting all over. I had to start at 60 lbs and now my limbs are maxed and I'm shooting 73 lbs. But like you I thought my bow was fucked up. But it was grip torque and inconsistent anchor point. Elk season is In a few weeks and I'm just now starting to group 3 inches at 30 yrds. I was pretty frustrated because I build and tune my own bows. I have a press and vice here and do everything myself. Which made it even more frustrating because I couldn't blame it on anyone hahA
That is really helpful. Great video.
This will be brilliant for my Daughter (12 y/o) First yr bow hunting. Grip Torque explained in 7 minutes
I’m thinking the heavier arrows take a little longer to leave the bow therefore exacerbate technique flaws...probably in the same vein as lower brace heights.
Great video
No, they're heavier so when you send them on a course the inertia is more likely to keep them going in that direction, especially if you have alot of foc and no vanes to correct it
Hi Jack,
You just solved one of my problems. I was torquing my bow and had a problem with nock right that was not tunable. Until you tuned my brain... and left wrist.
Big Thanks!
BTW, I added a long stabilizer I had laying about to help me be aware of where the riser was pointing. No weight... just a long carbon pointer. LOL
Glad it helped!!!
Great vid ! 👊
To add to my comment from earlier..
Redid my Center shot and reset my rest back to middle and wow.. a tiny bit of pressure left or right of the grip and drastic changes.. one snapped my bear shaft as it came in with such bad angle.. definitely need to work on my grip to get a new muscle memory embedded..!
Too short or Too long a draw length can induce torque since it can effect elbow and wrist angle causing ring finger or thumb pressure torque
I am taking the hoyt grip off and going full Tom Hanks Cast away with Wilson tape. I shoot a lot more consistent without the grip on
Good stuff
very good video
Thanks
As a noob I'm learning a lot from your vids thanks
I imagine you went through torque tuning, since you seem to have hit roughly the same vertical line with your torqued arrows?
So I got my new bow and the bow tech shoot through paper and had a bullet hole. I shot it through paper and had a slight right tear. Showed me how each person is different. Guess I have some work to do.
your good thanks very much
Glad it helped!
U do a good job with ur channel
Thank you!
There are so many variables affecting good arrow flight... its a wonder they ever fly straight! I am having constant right tears with 200 to 300 grain points. I had the bow tuned. I can fix it a bit with moving my rest but then I have to move the sights so far to correct it, I just do not think it is normal. The rest is pretty far out of centre to reduce the tear. Since torque is so easy to induce do you have any suggestions on how to overcome it in order to get a good "hand load" ?? Thanks, you videos are very helpful.
Check out my video on how I tune every arrow and then play around with your grip on your bow as well as with your release and you'll be amazed at what you can do!
This is why new shooters should not be asked to paper tune their own bows. Nice video!
Beer nice if most did would actually take the time when a customer drops the cash on a new bow/accessories if they took the time to set them up properly. Rarely do shops spend more then 30 mins setting up as bow. I've had to redo all of mine to get them shooting properly. Also love your channel!!.
Loved Part 1 of the 5 bow shootout! The tags on the screen for each category had me laughing hysterically. "Cams: the spinny bits". Just awesome.
Better yet have a new shooter shoot bare shafts through paper once their bow is properly tuned. Great way for them to see the effect of their grip.
Thanks for watching it. I've been watching your stuff for a while.
@@brandonmcdonald6121 I don't miss any Brandon McDonald videos myself!
I was constantly getting a left nock until I realized I was torquing. Now the arrows look like they are hitting the target square but still have 2-3" tear in paper at 10 yards. Not sure what I am doing wrong at this point
Unfortunately I don't know what to tell you other than what you've already realized! A TON of factors go into bare shaft tuning and it's a very fickle beast.
Been tune chasing recently because of grip torque. Besides the IQ models, is there another sight that helps you confirm good alignment? Amazing what just a slight unperceived pressure can do to you accuracy! Thank
To my knowledge, no. Although having a sight that has 3rd Axis adjustment will let you set your housing perfectly. So if you see more of the inside of your housing and it's move oval than circular, then you know you're torquing! That's how I do it at least.
@@averagejackarchery - Practice, practice, practice. Well, perfect as you can do practice. Thanks!
Could you get the same nock left or right indication if your cams leaned too much? 🤔
Yup! Cam lean and the tuning involved is another bow tuning step. I always liked to keep mine level and then play with the rest. But some like to add left twists for left tears and right twists for right tears. To each his own.
Average Jack Archery
Thanks, l’ll try that ☺️
moving my rest does zilch 😒
I havnt shot in a few months and before I stopped I had the poundage crancked up, I'm thinking I lost some stretch and now its maybe to heavy and I'm torquing my shots now. Not by much but still it's annoying. Am I crazy to think I should proably drop my draw weight and work my way up again.
Definitely sounds like the logical thing to do based on what you're describing.
@@averagejackarchery I'm very new to all this so it was my asumption. Thanks for the confirmation!
Im finding the heavier arrows with similar inserts and points are less forgiving. Same exact thing you're talking about. Victory rip with those 100 inserts, and I'm experimenting with ethics ranch fairy test kit points also.. the lighter, stock aluminum arrows are fast and fly better consistently and are more forgiving. I'm Disappointed with that right now, bit not ready to give up.
Bell curve arrows are the way to go! :)
@@averagejackarchery bell curve is a brand?? Or something about tuning?
@@aaronmartins4077 Tuning! Building an arrow that makes sense. Fits "in a bell curve" that statistically makes sense.
I suffer with hand torch bad and drive me nuts to correct it and tune🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️😡🤮🤷♂️🤦♂️
I keep seeing videos where people are moving the rest and or the sights, to help adjust in torque issues? Moving your rest straight back a little helps I guess?
That's only good once you've established a consistent, torque less style grip. Those measures are for when you have a good grip but could mess it up say In a hunting situation or in a tough tournament.
@@averagejackarchery ok.. I got ya. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I've never tried to torque tune my bow. You should make a video on that. If you already don't
Do you ever torque tune?
Nope.
Oh you shoot an EZ V? Subbed.
Lol! Yeah it's been pretty slick for me the last few months.
@@averagejackarchery are you shooting pro or tick side? I haven't made the leap to the pro side yet. I like having the ticks as a confirmation of framing.
Still haven't gone full pro. Still working with the tick side.
If you understand target panic will this really work to help it?
You seem to be releasing videos that address issues I'm having as a new archer. I'm starting to think you're hiding in the bushes and watching me for video ideas. Stop that. (Come on out and introduce yourself.)
😂
Did he say I have to twerk it?
I recently bought a new bow, after using an old Browning Rage bow that I inherited from a friend. My new bow (Bear Salute) seems to cause significantly more arm slap, the string hitting my left arm (with the bruises to show for it). To avoid this, I have to hold the bow awkwardly. No straight in line, but with my arm away from the string, and my wrist bent slightly to the right, to give my arm clearance. I think this is causing my significant left/right variance. Can the *bow* design itself actually be the problem? The Browning bow seems to have a riser that is more to the left, the Bear seems to be more of a straight line (top to bottom).
Maybe shorten your draw length slightly so you not as “locked out” with your elbow keeping your forearm slightly away from the string.
My guess it's a draw length issue. Sounds like you might be too long now. Try shortening it up and see if it helps!
Didn’t bowmar show this and said you can move your rest forward or back to drastically “reduce” the amount of kick of an arrow for the times of “just in case” you happen to torque the bow in a high pressure hunting situation. Was hoping you were going to confirm this.
In order to do this, the rest contact point must be as close to the point as possible to limit the fulcrum angle of the rest contact on the shaft. This isn't usually feasible with a hunting arrow where many archer prefer the arrow to be well in front of the shelf for broadhead clearance.
What an odd looking sight
EZV! Definitely an oddball. But it actually works!
If you set up your bow correctly out of the box. Walk back tune and dial in your sight. Shooting decent groups. You now shoot through paper and are not getting bullet holes. There is a little funny arrow flight early but rights it’s self ten or fifteen yards down range. Why would paper tuning matter? I really can’t understand all the effort devoted to this process…
WAY toooooo much talking and not very good camera shots... sorry thumbs down pal