Nice work and creativity... A couple of additions perhaps...use the gel superglue as it will give a much better bond...the regular thin stuff is really made for super tight surface tolerances, a few microns and can and will fail trying to fill larger gaps. also keep in mind that the more extra "glass" you add upfront the more light you will lose and the darker the images will be...you can get around this by uisng a pice of dark cellophane over the electric eye of the camera...this will trick the camera into thinking it needs more light and will adjust the shuuter speed accordingly for you. the extra glass will also add extra weight and additional stress on the plastic parts and gears that extend the lens when powered on/off with the lenses on. To get around this you could install the lenses after power up or face the camera down when turning it on and up to the sky when turing it off to let gravity assist.
Yep good points. I came up with a cover for the light sensor that is a round clear disk with a gradient from transparent to opaque that can be rotated to tune the exposure time a bit better. For full manual control maybe a dimable LED can be place in front of the sensor and adjusting its brightness will be adjusting the exposure and then its cool if it can be pulled out east for auto exposure.
your experiment gave me some inspiration to try something myself that works nicely and doesn't involve any modification to the camera at all as the lense just slips on and off the stock camara's lense tube. first attempt was using a vitamin bottle with a lense mount glued on it's end similar to what you did directly onto your camera lense housing. it worked!!..it was just a bit flimsy as the walls of the plastic bottle are a bit thin. the second more permant attemp was to take old, otherwise unused, 200mm SLR lense from the '70's. I took it appart and kept the end tube with its included lense...the lense has a 52mm thread that can accept more lenses, filters etc...i've tested with wide angle, tele, and macro. it's extremely solid, slips on and off, does not physically alter the camera at all...it also allows me to get macro shots that are 1.5 - 2.5 inches from the subject!!!..magnitudes closer than is possible from any of the stock lens offerings on this camera (instax wide 300). my currents projects with this camera are to use an old polaroid packfilm camera selftimer that pushes the shutter button...i have to make a mount to hold it in place...this shouldn't be hard at the instax 300 has a tripod mount (IMHO the one and only factory improvemnt over the 210) but what i would really like to do is to figure out how to get this camera into "bulb" mode so i can use a piece of ground glass to really frame the image and get it focused..i see some peeps have electronically moded the camerra to do this, ther must be a mechanical way to flip that shuter open though...maybe you can have a go at it ;)
hello, can you please send me some photos and info about your mod (new mount and lenses you were using)? I just want to try it myself too, but don't know which mount and lenses will fit for my wide 300 my email is slvalexalex@gmail.com
Life got crazy so I stopped doing this project for now. The lens fitting I had added was a conversion ring for 37mm thread lenses and filters. I chose that size because I just happened to find lenses that size. I have not worked on this project in a while since I mostly use the Lomo Wide instax film camera but maybe some day I will get back to it. If you would like to see more of my projects you may follow me on instagram at @tboneproductionsvb or on facebook at my page Tyler A. Davis Photography .
I believe these lenses were made to be used on camcorders. The wide angle one works well with this camera but the 2x zoom one leaves too much vignette and needs to be a bigger diameter lens.
I have seen a modification that allows people to do that with this camera but I dont think it is worth the hassle. You are better off getting the Lomo Wide camera for that.
Nice work and creativity...
A couple of additions perhaps...use the gel superglue as it will give a much better bond...the regular thin stuff is really made for super tight surface tolerances, a few microns and can and will fail trying to fill larger gaps.
also keep in mind that the more extra "glass" you add upfront the more light you will lose and the darker the images will be...you can get around this by uisng a pice of dark cellophane over the electric eye of the camera...this will trick the camera into thinking it needs more light and will adjust the shuuter speed accordingly for you.
the extra glass will also add extra weight and additional stress on the plastic parts and gears that extend the lens when powered on/off with the lenses on. To get around this you could install the lenses after power up or face the camera down when turning it on and up to the sky when turing it off to let gravity assist.
Yep good points. I came up with a cover for the light sensor that is a round clear disk with a gradient from transparent to opaque that can be rotated to tune the exposure time a bit better. For full manual control maybe a dimable LED can be place in front of the sensor and adjusting its brightness will be adjusting the exposure and then its cool if it can be pulled out east for auto exposure.
your experiment gave me some inspiration to try something myself that
works nicely and doesn't involve any modification to the camera at all
as the lense just slips on and off the stock camara's lense tube.
first attempt was using a vitamin bottle with a lense mount glued on
it's end similar to what you did directly onto your camera lense
housing. it worked!!..it was just a bit flimsy as the walls of the
plastic bottle are a bit thin.
the second more permant attemp was to take old, otherwise unused, 200mm
SLR lense from the '70's. I took it appart and kept the end tube with
its included lense...the lense has a 52mm thread that can accept more
lenses, filters etc...i've tested with wide angle, tele, and macro.
it's extremely solid, slips on and off, does not physically alter the
camera at all...it also allows me to get macro shots that are 1.5 - 2.5
inches from the subject!!!..magnitudes closer than is possible from any
of the stock lens offerings on this camera (instax wide 300).
my currents projects with this camera are to use an old polaroid
packfilm camera selftimer that pushes the shutter button...i have to
make a mount to hold it in place...this shouldn't be hard at the instax
300 has a tripod mount (IMHO the one and only factory improvemnt over
the 210)
but what i would really like to do is to figure out how to get this
camera into "bulb" mode so i can use a piece of ground glass to really frame the image and get it focused..i see some peeps have
electronically moded the camerra to do this, ther must be a mechanical
way to flip that shuter open though...maybe you can have a go at it ;)
hello, can you please send me some photos and info about your mod (new mount and lenses you were using)?
I just want to try it myself too, but don't know which mount and lenses will fit for my wide 300
my email is slvalexalex@gmail.com
yura did he ever email it? I'm interested as well!
Life got crazy so I stopped doing this project for now. The lens fitting I had added was a conversion ring for 37mm thread lenses and filters. I chose that size because I just happened to find lenses that size. I have not worked on this project in a while since I mostly use the Lomo Wide instax film camera but maybe some day I will get back to it. If you would like to see more of my projects you may follow me on instagram at @tboneproductionsvb or on facebook at my page Tyler A. Davis Photography
.
Which lens did you use to get the selfies? Sorry don't know much about lenses. Could you tell me the specs so I can try to find a similar one? Thanks!
I believe these lenses were made to be used on camcorders. The wide angle one works well with this camera but the 2x zoom one leaves too much vignette and needs to be a bigger diameter lens.
Can this do a double exposure shot?
I have seen a modification that allows people to do that with this camera but I dont think it is worth the hassle. You are better off getting the Lomo Wide camera for that.