Making Dowel Rods with a Table Saw
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- In this quick video I will show you the jig I made to create the perfect sizes dowel rods. All it takes is some long square stock, a block of wood, and a table saw.
If you would like to see a longer build version of this please let me know and I will see about doing a step-by-step that shows how to make the jig and dowel blanks. As always, thanks for watching and please subscribe and leave comments below.
Just what I needed. Made mine longer so the blade was contained.
I love it. I will make one, but I will add an extra resting block to prevent any whipping of the dowel.
Excellent idea. Quietest table saw ever.
You need another piecce of wood with a dowel-size hole located about a foot or so from the outfeed of your jig. That would steady the dowel and avoid flopping around and make a smoother dowel coming off the saw blade. Nice idea though. I'll give you a LIKE.
Cool method!
Beautiful
Nice idea. Thanks for sharing.
i'm so impress best idea everr
Make the piece longer cover that blade up. Make front hole bigger and connect to dust collection on top or side. Use socket to turn square stock. Finish dowel by chucking it from back and pull it through.
Pretty sure mine worked just like it was supposed to.
I made a jig that requires no dangerous table saw, and mine comes out just like the store bought dowels, just drill a 3/8" hole into a 1/8 inch steel 1/8 inch from the edge then cut a diagonal slit near the left side of the hole then just a little bend on the right tab of the slit, that will act as a shaving device then put the blanket in the drill slowly spin it applying pressure, you will have what looks like a story bought dowel. Best of luck. B. C.
Really clever!
Never used dowels much but maybe I try some.
scaling this up to walking stick size would be amazing
Excellent idea. Do you think rip cutting the wood gives a cleaner faster and more efficient result than cross cutting? I only wonder because cross cutting with the jig attached to a sled would be safer and one could make a jig with multiple sized feed holes on the same block and simply move the sled forward or back to line up the blade with the bottom of the feed hole. instead of having a long wide block and moving the fence or putting spacers between the fence and jig block. Obviously this idea won't work if cross cutting would result in a less clean or satisfying outcome. Four dime sized round rare earth super magnets slightly counter sunk into the sled bed and four slightly proud magnets on each corner of the bottom of the jig block would make attaching and removing from a cross cut sled super easy. A Clamp on the sled would prevent it from sliding during the whole operation.
Good tip / jig.
Thanks Julia. It certainly gives me something useful to do with all of those long, skinny cutoffs I have been hoarding.
Top of the year!
Must make it making a chair need some oak spindles strange size this jig will do the trick cheers love from England
Did make it works great 👍 chairs look good to
Two safety suggestions. Make your jig a little bit longer to cover up the exposed blade atleast on the operator side. You don’t really want to be pushing your drill towards a spinning blade plus it will get rid of your unfinished part problem. Secondly, I don’t trust quickclaps with that amount of cranked up blade. Throw a sliding locking clamp or a pipe clamp on there.
I have two safety suggestions also:
1) Take this video down
2) Throw the jig in the garbage
That way no one else will try it and you won't do it again.
it is interesting. Good idea.
It should cover following safety concern: If rod is split and broken during operation, it might become an arrow and be launched back to operator.
Rule #1 on the tablesaw, never stand directly behind the blade. That's just good all around advice. I wasn't worried about it kicking back as it was entering the hole that was sized very close to the original stock and the block was clamped to the fence so there shouldn't be a lot of opportunity for it to do anything but perhaps jam the blade and trip the circuit breaker. Safety is always a concern though, as it should be anytime you have spinning blades.
a bit sketchy but it works
very very good of job
Looks great!
I've made a dowel tool using a plane blade, but the results are a bit ragged.
I'll try this method instead, and see if its an improvement.
It's simplicity itself!
My thoughts are, that the saw-blade doesn't need to be so high, as only a tiny part of the blade is needed. [The difference between the side of the square, and the diagonal. (The side x 1.414)] In fact just sufficient to allow the drill to rest on the table surface would be enough,
and yes, make the block longer so the blade is totally covered would be better.
Can we make a 35mm diameter dowel with this technique?
It only does 3/8". Can't imagine how to adapt this for a 35mm.
I find this method a bit dangerous and asking for a super nice kick back to injure yourself. Any time if your clamp came lose, you will have a block coming at you at 250 miles and hour and probably the little dowel like an arrow to go through your body too. I think chisel or router methods are much more safe where they won't throw anything at you like a bullet.
My first thought was that this invites kickback, and even my SawStop wouldn’t prevent severe injury.
"A smaller hole in the back. Turn the wood by hand and push it through" is this you tube?
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