Love it. One of the most succinct tip videos on TH-cam! I’m getting ready to pull my turbo and a lot of other stuff on my 7.3 for some maintenance and this info will be invaluable! Thanks in advance!
Well, just got a 99 with a huge boost leak and exhaust leak, had a cut down pipe to the floor board, and new up pipes. Im gonna guess, thats where my problems are, just installed a new 4 inch system from riffraff and still have a huge exhaust leak and boost leak. Soon as i get the chance ill pull it in the shop and see what i can find. Thanks for the tips.
If you are doing this by yourself (like I did) here are a couple tips I learned from others as well as by trial and error. As far as the back up-pipe that connects to back of turbo right behind wastegate, I chose to pass on loosening the up pipe from the manifold or the turbo from it's pedastal, cause with my luck it would have just made things a million times worse once I couldn't get those back into position. Instead I completely loosened the v clamp that connects the two, then using a pry bar I just pried on the back of the up-pipe towards the turbo then as soon as it was lined up put v clamp back on and tightened it. I did this by myself and my truck is lifted, so you can definitely do it! Now, turbo to spider... loosen up the hose brackets on the lower two sections and the bolt boots on the hot and cold air pipes. Do NOT remove all the way, unless absolutely necessary... the bolt boots are ok and if you really have to pull the pipes out of the black and blue sleeves, its kind of a pain to get them back on the sleeve. But for the love of god, do NOT remove the hose brackets completely that connect the lower two sections to the engine... if you do you are going to have a really bad time and most likely end up with hands/arms embedded with fiberglass. If your flathead keeps slipping out of those POS brackets, try using an 8 socket instead. Alright enough about brackets, back to the turbo to spider... same concept as earlier. Loosen v clamp that connects the two and (loosen 4 other pipe connections IF necessary) and use your pry bar to pry spider towards turbo. Once they are lined up nice and tight go ahead and tighten that v clamp back on there while doing your damndest to hold pry bar in place. The prybar i used was a stubby little guy, about a foot long. Once you get your v clamp on tight go ahead and tighten your boots/brackets all up and give her a go! The consistency and volume of the turbo whine is seriously night and day compared to what it was before, not to mention the performance increase. I'm no expert, and maybe I just got lucky, but if you're like me and are scared of unbolting things that you know are going to be a nightmare to put back together, I think giving my way a try is definitely worth a shot!
Handy video. Does loosening the pedestal cause oring pinch? Also, would a ratchet strap around the collector pulling over and under to the front of engine help?
Do you mount to the manifold solid...I'm 9 hours in and cant get them lined up...manifold bolts are loose...cant get collector to align with turbo AND PUT THE CLAMPS ON AT THE SAME TIME
Nice Video Charlie, Very Helpful. Even tho I'm a 6.0 Powerstroke Owner, i Never Miss any of your Videos. I'm Running your Stage 2 and I'm Loving it !!! I know you're looking into a different bearing manufacturer for your Stage 2r any Plans in the Future of doing your Stage 3 in a Ball Bearing Configuration ? I would be definitely interested, and I'm sure I'm Not the Only Person that would Like to See That
Honestly my first time working on a diesel engine and when I put the turbo in I thought I was good to go, started, no boost at all. At least I know my problem now lmao
I've tried 3 times to mate my y-pipe collector to my turbo and I still have a little oil seeping from between them " I just replaced injectors". I can't see how I can get it ant better mated or how it will be leak free
Glad that worked out! often times, the up pipes get attached crooked to the manifold or they just came slightly off from the factory and need a little more encouragement.
What size exactly is the clamp that hooks the up pipe and turbo together? I got mine lined up the way you said and it works great it just still leaks. And my clamp must be too big because it closes till it touches
The clamp is the ford OEM size. It sounds like your clamp is over stretched, just buy a new clamp. We have them available: kcturbos.com/products/motorcraft-f81z-8287-ea-6-0-up-pipe-v-band-clamp?_pos=1&_sid=60906e055&_ss=r
Stock injectors no tuning around 10 at the most, auto trans usually peak around 15 or so, manual average 10 without just laying off into it due to drop off in gear changes.
Bolt and tourque your turbo down, and then adust your sketchy up pipes to fit properly. If you follow this vids method then you are forcing your turbo to fit your down pipes. Think about it 🤔
Kinda bad advice on loosening the turbo, most likely will destroy pedestal o rings. Better to loosen up pipe bolts at manifold and (maybe even getting longer bolts) make the connection at the turbo, then use bolts to suck up pipes down onto manifold
Exactly what I did, disconnected up pipes at manifolds. I also wrapped bungie cords to driver and passenger side up pipes near the y collector and up and over the turbo to pull the y collector to the turbo. Worked great.
Simple tips and tricks advice like this saves hours of messing around. Thankyou KC Turbos
Dude? Why was it until today that I learned this? Thank you.
Better late than never!
Love it. One of the most succinct tip videos on TH-cam! I’m getting ready to pull my turbo and a lot of other stuff on my 7.3 for some maintenance and this info will be invaluable! Thanks in advance!
Very good video. Very informative. Having the engine on a stand sure does help with accessibility. The engine compartment is somewhat "tight".
Great tips, love those spider clamps, better than the hose type clamps.
These tips helped me out so much! Keep up the good work KC's!
Info like this should come with a price tag! Thank you a ton
Best video on the subject.
This is great, everything I am dealing with right now
Very nice video. Thank you for the tip. I was just getting ready to put a turbo onto my 2000 f250.
Well, just got a 99 with a huge boost leak and exhaust leak, had a cut down pipe to the floor board, and new up pipes. Im gonna guess, thats where my problems are, just installed a new 4 inch system from riffraff and still have a huge exhaust leak and boost leak. Soon as i get the chance ill pull it in the shop and see what i can find. Thanks for the tips.
The best video on the subject
If you are doing this by yourself (like I did) here are a couple tips I learned from others as well as by trial and error.
As far as the back up-pipe that connects to back of turbo right behind wastegate, I chose to pass on loosening the up pipe from the manifold or the turbo from it's pedastal, cause with my luck it would have just made things a million times worse once I couldn't get those back into position.
Instead I completely loosened the v clamp that connects the two, then using a pry bar I just pried on the back of the up-pipe towards the turbo then as soon as it was lined up put v clamp back on and tightened it. I did this by myself and my truck is lifted, so you can definitely do it!
Now, turbo to spider... loosen up the hose brackets on the lower two sections and the bolt boots on the hot and cold air pipes. Do NOT remove all the way, unless absolutely necessary... the bolt boots are ok and if you really have to pull the pipes out of the black and blue sleeves, its kind of a pain to get them back on the sleeve. But for the love of god, do NOT remove the hose brackets completely that connect the lower two sections to the engine... if you do you are going to have a really bad time and most likely end up with hands/arms embedded with fiberglass. If your flathead keeps slipping out of those POS brackets, try using an 8 socket instead.
Alright enough about brackets, back to the turbo to spider... same concept as earlier. Loosen v clamp that connects the two and (loosen 4 other pipe connections IF necessary) and use your pry bar to pry spider towards turbo. Once they are lined up nice and tight go ahead and tighten that v clamp back on there while doing your damndest to hold pry bar in place.
The prybar i used was a stubby little guy, about a foot long. Once you get your v clamp on tight go ahead and tighten your boots/brackets all up and give her a go!
The consistency and volume of the turbo whine is seriously night and day compared to what it was before, not to mention the performance increase.
I'm no expert, and maybe I just got lucky, but if you're like me and are scared of unbolting things that you know are going to be a nightmare to put back together, I think giving my way a try is definitely worth a shot!
Thank you! Trying this soon.
So I have done what you said in the video but I still can't get the up pipe to seal all the way
Handy video. Does loosening the pedestal cause oring pinch? Also, would a ratchet strap around the collector pulling over and under to the front of engine help?
Great demo and info! Thank you Sir.
Do you mount to the manifold solid...I'm 9 hours in and cant get them lined up...manifold bolts are loose...cant get collector to align with turbo AND PUT THE CLAMPS ON AT THE SAME TIME
You can give us a call and we can give you some tips and support. 480-688-7160
Also use a mirror and a light you can see if it's flush in the gap.
Nice Video Charlie, Very Helpful. Even tho I'm a 6.0 Powerstroke Owner, i Never Miss any of your Videos. I'm Running your Stage 2 and I'm Loving it !!! I know you're looking into a different bearing manufacturer for your Stage 2r any Plans in the Future of doing your Stage 3 in a Ball Bearing Configuration ? I would be definitely interested, and I'm sure I'm Not the Only Person that would Like to See That
Thank you for the video. Great advice.
Honestly my first time working on a diesel engine and when I put the turbo in I thought I was good to go, started, no boost at all. At least I know my problem now lmao
That happens to even the most experienced diesel techs. Did you get the problem fixed?
Just happened to me, changed the turbo, no boost 🤦♂️
I've tried 3 times to mate my y-pipe collector to my turbo and I still have a little oil seeping from between them " I just replaced injectors". I can't see how I can get it ant better mated or how it will be leak free
Excellent info - thank you!
Can I put all that late model piping and spider and 300x KC on an obs??
Can I utilize the late model 7.3 plenums?
Thank you
Awesome presentation very well explained very good video
I've had problems lining up the up pipe and the loose turbo didn't do it. But once I loosen the up pipe from the manifold it dropped right into place.
Glad that worked out! often times, the up pipes get attached crooked to the manifold or they just came slightly off from the factory and need a little more encouragement.
I’m having this issue with my excursion i can’t get my up pipes and turbo to line up perfectly
You tried loosening the turbo pedestal bolts before you tighten the up-pipes clamp?
Great video man!
I had the problem between the spider and turbo. I found it using a turbo leak test.
What size exactly is the clamp that hooks the up pipe and turbo together? I got mine lined up the way you said and it works great it just still leaks. And my clamp must be too big because it closes till it touches
The clamp is the ford OEM size. It sounds like your clamp is over stretched, just buy a new clamp. We have them available: kcturbos.com/products/motorcraft-f81z-8287-ea-6-0-up-pipe-v-band-clamp?_pos=1&_sid=60906e055&_ss=r
What down pipe is on this?
5" down-pipe
What’s the peak boost on a 95 7.3? When I get on mine my cts reads about 10
Stock injectors no tuning around 10 at the most, auto trans usually peak around 15 or so, manual average 10 without just laying off into it due to drop off in gear changes.
Thank you so much
You're most welcome!
Great tips
loosen your up pipes, keep your o rings sealed, up grade to a two piece intake.
Coincidence that this video is 4:44?
It took me 1.5 hours to get that clamp on and 1 hour to do the rest, really difficult
Thank you
Nice WORK
good job thank you
It's like a damn rubix cube
it can be frustrating, but just like a rubix cube, if you follow the steps, you can solve the problem.
Bolt and tourque your turbo down, and then adust your sketchy up pipes to fit properly. If you follow this vids method then you are forcing your turbo to fit your down pipes. Think about it 🤔
So basically just leave the pedestal loose. Seems simple enough
Correct sir, that gives you enough wiggle room to properly secure the up-pipe clamp. Then you can easily tighten down the pedestal bolts.
Is easy to show n said outside the engine but is true u only have to work whit different tools
Sorry for said it. Ut I no
Kinda bad advice on loosening the turbo, most likely will destroy pedestal o rings. Better to loosen up pipe bolts at manifold and (maybe even getting longer bolts) make the connection at the turbo, then use bolts to suck up pipes down onto manifold
Exactly what I did, disconnected up pipes at manifolds. I also wrapped bungie cords to driver and passenger side up pipes near the y collector and up and over the turbo to pull the y collector to the turbo. Worked great.
Yea a nice fat thumb 👍🏻
*losing out* not loosing out
Fixed! Thank you
If you didn’t know to do these things you shouldn’t be modifying your truck 😂
Great tips