I bought a 2005 GMC that had dual batteries. The secondary battery positive cable connected to a lug on the firewall. It had burned out long before I bought it. I couldn't figure how how it have been done or how to fix. Watching your video here has given the the understanding of how to fix it. Thanks for making this.
Man I know this is an old video but yours is one of the cleanest I’ve seen. Real clean looking and much props. Wish you were out my way because I would pay you to do my burb
Awesome video. That is some thick wire! I was thinking about using #4 for my build. Great job getting everything fit snug and neat. thank you for sharing.
Hey bud. Nice install. If I might offer one suggestion. The fuse that's in the box from the alternator line should be moved closer to the alternator. If for any reason that line finds a short it will cook and cook. There is nothing protecting it. The fuse should be located within ten inches of the power source. Great job!!
Good job , well thought out ,fused ,insulated , isolated. That fuse for the inverter should be closer to 50 amps and a 8 gauge wire though IF you ever plan on using it close to its rated capacity.
Great job Pau! I am currently adding a battery to my truck and I want to put some 12V outlets in the bed as well. Could you shed some light on how you installed those? Thank you!!
That's real nice setup and I like that box you fabricated out of that pretty metal when you opened it you nearly dropped it right on top all you hot leads one hell of a Orange ball of fire and Sparks everywhere cheap way to fix that problem cuz it will happen eventually did you place rubber the same size that box and laid in there on top of those connectors you'll thank me later I saw this cuz many years ago I built one like that not near as nice and pretty but I didn't put the rubber in there to cover the hot points and yeah it was ugly free site is better than hindsight
Nice complete & clean . I will probably duplicate your design somewhat . I have looked at several good retro fits but one thing concerns me is removal of that bracket and structure integrity of fender etc . Please post when u come up with design please
Look at my previous comments. I remember someone saying that if I got a different group battery the bracket will fit back in original location. Look into that and let me know how it goes.
Nice work, but you might want to look into SGX rated cable, or at least cable that is rated for 105C. Also, you could have run a switch to the PAC-200 ground terminal instead of running a fused power cable to your cab.
Hey man I was wondering the same thing, will an ammo can work. What are your boxes dimensions for the fuse box. I really like your setup. Im a neat freak and am seriously thinking about this to all three of my silverados. Thanks man. Good work. Keep sharing good stuff like this. Its appreciated.
That is a clean setup, BTW. I basically have the same iso, and I always thought the ground and positive were supposed to be the same gauge wire; guess I was misinformed. In addition, I thought two of the post from the iso go to both positive posts on your main and auxiliary batteries and then remaining two posts: one to ground and the other to ign switch. My Auxiliary battery is an agm, yet not for cranking battery/ main starting battery. So Instead of running the post on the iso to auxiliary positive; I can just run it straight to the alternator, is that the correct way? Because I'm having serious electrical issues in my car. I cant even charge m y phone from the cigarette lighters with inverters, because I keep blowing the fuses to both cig ports. And when I wire an inverter directly to the aux battery; the inverter malfunctions, because the aux battery isn't holding enough charge. Also, where do you place the fuses? Because I have two in lines ran about a foot away from both aux and main battery; will that suffice? I'm only trying to run a 2k amp and sub and an inverter to charge phone (usb) etc off my auxiliary.
Well done. I want to do something very similar with my truck. One other thing I wanted to do, was add a power pole (Anderson or similar), like what they use for connecting the battery on a forklift to its charger. I would want one on the front and rear of the vehicle, and I would use it for charging the battery/batteries, and make custom jumper cables, etc. You could then have high amperage dc voltage available on either side/end of the truck (think hooking up to solar, or using an additional inverter in it's own box, etc). How did you fabricate the isolator enclosure?
+Reagans Ridge thank you. I have a wood box i made with a motorcycle battery and a 400w inverter. its small enough to pack. I fabricated the box out of 18ga aluminum sheet with a bending brake and TIG welded the corners. I made a sheet metal bracket and welded it to the box. I bolted the bracket to existing hardware for battery tray after i riveted all the fuses in the box.
Really regret not buying the little press break that was scrapped out at my work. It was a smaller unit that only took 3 guys to load up for the guy who did buy it. He is making all sorts of cool sheet metal gadgets lately. I am thinking unless I can enlist the help of someone with more hobby tools than myself, I will have to modify already manufactured components.
Great Job...... I'm in the process of mirroring your setup. What gauge wires did you use throughout the project? And also how did you wire up the resistor to control the voltmeter? Thanks. And again GREAT JOB..
M.L. Scott I used 4ga for the mains and I think it was 8ga for everything else. Its been a while. The resistor just went inline on positive terminal before the voltmeter. Make a video of your setup when you're done and send me the link. I'd like to see it.
Hey looks extremely clean my concerns are you gonna lot of extra wire runs almost unnecessary and might have been nice to have put that fuse Box in the cab so you won't have all the extra wire running around shit... great job tho.
What gauge wire did you use? Also what amp output does your alternator put out and what size in-line fuses did you decide to use? Nice clean set up. I have a Ram with a 160 amp alternator and can't quite figure out the in-line fuse size.
Can you provide the source of the 12v ignition for the isolator? From my research, the only 12v ignition-ready source is from the radio (sometimes) pink wire. My issue with that, is when key is turned, radio is on, I dont want the batteries feeding off one another, is this possible?
I used a switching 12v source from the fuse box. I don't remember which one I used. That only powers the solenoid to connect the two batteries together and start the charging of the second battery.
The question: I just added a new 2ndary battery in my 01 Silverado 8100. This is how I connected them, I connected the positive wire from the 2nd battery running through a fuze and a solenoid to the positive end of the primary battery. the negative wire from the 2nd battery into the frame. Is this correct?
What did you ground your inverter to? I just did an install on my Silverado. I ran 4 awg to a 750 watt inverter in the bed. I am wondering where the best place to ground is or if I should run a ground all the way back to the negative terminal.
Keep the ground short. Clean down to bare metal and use dielectric grease. Make sure the positive cable is within amp specs for the length of cable you have. I will do an update video soon, with details of my 1700 watt inverter setup.
paul louscher good advise! I used 4 gauge welding cable. Hopefully that’s heavy enough. I might end up moving the inverter into the cab at some point. What did you ground to on your setup? Any recommendations for ground location near back the back of the bed?
@@ryanm2273 I used 0 AWG cable and only went to the cab. make sure you size the wire right. I ran my ground directly to the frame, cleaned down to bare metal, and smeared grease over the connection. check out my update video.
paul louscher could I install it to my remote wire coming from the back of my after market radio? I’m using the isolator for a second battery to power my subs and amp and just need a switched source for isolator but don’t know what I could tap into
Where did you get that box? What battery did you use. I’m doing the same set up curious where u got it and btw the bracket you had to take off to put the battery there, did u keep it off? Mine won’t go back on because of the battery. Will it affect the trucks stability. Sorry for the questions I’m not an expert on these things.
Did u connect the grounds from battery to battery? Im not a mechanic, just a diy but i did read of a 'hall effect sensor' that is clamped to neg battery wire on factory ground wire. From what i can understand, that sensor tells the computer how charged ur battery is an im assuming how long the alternator needs to charge. Just looking for some ideas an see if im doing it correctly
djrudy1977 they are both body grounded so technically they are connected together. maybe one day I'll install a better solenoid but this one is doing the job.
@@tfergusonjr it depends on where you are. I just whipped it out one day. I didnt take any measurements. Any good Fab shop should be able to make something for you.
Michael R. Head, batteries love to be charged way more then discharged. I've had this system for a couple years now and have not experienced that problem. you can also look into voltage regulating solenoids as well.
Yes. When the ignition is turned on, the solenoid is activated and both batteries are connected. So yes, technically both batteries are being used when starting.
Delightful Douschebaggery no they are not. I never heard they had to be.... would make jump staring other cars a little difficult if that was the case.
2 gauge?? holy **** what are you running a refrigerator, air compressor, and 50 sub woofers in that thing? thats thicker than the wires on my 240V 450A welder lol GOD DAM
good job but you need to upgrade the Alternator wire as well. the small fusible link is only a 10Ga. wire at best. otherwise your entire install is for nothing.
Actually, I don't need to upgrade that, and my install is not "for nothing". My setup has been working problem free for years, so.... thanks for your opinion though.
Hi I think is badass I'll like to install 1 like if you have some time would you send me all the items that you used and a brief explanation I will appreciate any advice thanks
Is there some law that says don't use real battery cable for stereo systems? Everyone uses that shit Chinese jelly wire for some reason. It actually costs less to use real deal battery cable. ???????
jim davidson, I never used the cheap Chinese wire before and I have already replaced it all with real wire. I don't recommend using that stuff. it's junk!
But in your video, that clear red wire. It burns like mad. Try soldering a ring terminal on it. Have a fire extinguisher handy. You can buy real battery cable for less money than that car stereo fire wire. It has a much higher rated melting/burning temp at 105C. And it's REAL copper wire. Clean install brother but the products need help.
A lot cheaper ??? $30 bucks for a flat piece of 16 gauge steel with a few holes drilled into it ? Im so glad I can do these things for myself, I couldn't spend the amount of money some people do on simple things like this.
Steve Lamperta look dude! Do us all a favor and leave the negativity at the door! You have no idea what you're talking about! If you're referring to the "battery" mount, it is a little more complex then a simple piece of 16ga. And if you're so damn good at fabricating, maybe you should get someone to pay you for it. Then maybe you could afford $30.... And yes there is such thing and a deep cycle battery that has the required CCA to start a full size truck.
@steve lamperta you strike me as an older gentleman on disablity and is angry ay the world.. probably has like 3 old rusted out cars in your backyard that you have been "restoring" for like 20 years
I bought a 2005 GMC that had dual batteries. The secondary battery positive cable connected to a lug on the firewall. It had burned out long before I bought it. I couldn't figure how how it have been done or how to fix. Watching your video here has given the the understanding of how to fix it. Thanks for making this.
Man I know this is an old video but yours is one of the cleanest I’ve seen. Real clean looking and much props. Wish you were out my way because I would pay you to do my burb
Very neat and clean work. I’m impressed. Makes me wanna go work on mine now.
Check out my update videos and make sure you subscribe to my channel.
Awesome video. That is some thick wire! I was thinking about using #4 for my build. Great job getting everything fit snug and neat. thank you for sharing.
Hey bud. Nice install. If I might offer one suggestion. The fuse that's in the box from the alternator line should be moved closer to the alternator. If for any reason that line finds a short it will cook and cook. There is nothing protecting it. The fuse should be located within ten inches of the power source. Great job!!
Dave Butch a 200amp shut off relay would be great
See above comment.
I thought the sprinkler in the background was a lifter tapping in the beginning of the video lol
Classic chevy lifter tick! Mine only ticks at start up for about 30 seconds. Hahaha
Why did TH-cam tell me to click your pic to learn more about you? 🤣🤣
Idk
Haha AFM/DOD jk I know these older ones didn't have it.
Same here . Lol
Amazingly good engineering and planning/organization!.. so nice to see a smart home tinkerer... a fan!
Good job , well thought out ,fused ,insulated , isolated.
That fuse for the inverter should be closer to 50 amps and a 8 gauge wire though IF you ever plan on using it close to its rated capacity.
I thought the sprinkler was an exhaust leak at first😂 gotta love those vortecs!
Very clean and well thought out. I like it!
Very nice job! Going to do it to my 2500 just like you did! Great video!
Good idea. I like how the fuses are side by side.
Great job Pau! I am currently adding a battery to my truck and I want to put some 12V outlets in the bed as well. Could you shed some light on how you installed those? Thank you!!
Raul Duke I just used a hole saw and a rivet gun.
That's real nice setup and I like that box you fabricated out of that pretty metal when you opened it you nearly dropped it right on top all you hot leads one hell of a Orange ball of fire and Sparks everywhere cheap way to fix that problem cuz it will happen eventually did you place rubber the same size that box and laid in there on top of those connectors you'll thank me later I saw this cuz many years ago I built one like that not near as nice and pretty but I didn't put the rubber in there to cover the hot points and yeah it was ugly free site is better than hindsight
Clean work. Very good lay out.
I just went from six to midnight!!! Great fucking job bro!
So clean. Damn awesome work.
Nice complete & clean . I will probably duplicate your design somewhat . I have looked at several good retro fits but one thing concerns me is removal of that bracket and structure integrity of fender etc . Please post when u come up with design please
Look at my previous comments. I remember someone saying that if I got a different group battery the bracket will fit back in original location. Look into that and let me know how it goes.
Nice work, but you might want to look into SGX rated cable, or at least cable that is rated for 105C. Also, you could have run a switch to the PAC-200 ground terminal instead of running a fused power cable to your cab.
Christopher Michaelson I didn't want an extra switch, and I've upgraded my cable. Here's my update video th-cam.com/video/dAcMFpoq81Y/w-d-xo.html
Hey man I was wondering the same thing, will an ammo can work. What are your boxes dimensions for the fuse box. I really like your setup. Im a neat freak and am seriously thinking about this to all three of my silverados. Thanks man. Good work. Keep sharing good stuff like this. Its appreciated.
I need to get this done to my 86 Detroit 6.2.
The 2017 has the battery in the back, I did a similar install but grounded to the block.
Nice dope setup. Thank you. You gave me some ideas.
That is a clean setup, BTW. I basically have the same iso, and I always thought the ground and positive were supposed to be the same gauge wire; guess I was misinformed. In addition, I thought two of the post from the iso go to both positive posts on your main and auxiliary batteries and then remaining two posts: one to ground and the other to ign switch.
My Auxiliary battery is an agm, yet not for cranking battery/ main starting battery. So Instead of running the post on the iso to auxiliary positive; I can just run it straight to the alternator, is that the correct way? Because I'm having serious electrical issues in my car. I cant even charge m y phone from the cigarette lighters with inverters, because I keep blowing the fuses to both cig ports. And when I wire an inverter directly to the aux battery; the inverter malfunctions, because the aux battery isn't holding enough charge. Also, where do you place the fuses? Because I have two in lines ran about a foot away from both aux and main battery; will that suffice? I'm only trying to run a 2k amp and sub and an inverter to charge phone (usb) etc off my auxiliary.
Good job, really nice clean install
that is so clean! how much would you charge to do the installation if i get the parts to do it?
An nice job, very clean install. I have a 2009 an not so much room for a "junction box" like u have. Great job tho
I am thinking that an ammo can might work for folks that don't have your ability to fab.
isaachenry01 ammo can would probably work well if you have the room.
Isaac you would have made a damn fine Marine...thanx for the idea...Proverbs 27:17 Iron sharpens Iron homie. SEMPER FI rofl
isaachenry01 I was thinking that too!
i was thinking the same lol
nice build brother am looking for to doing something close to this.
Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge sir
The box holds the flux capacitor dummy heads, coverted to 55mph to time travel
Well done. I want to do something very similar with my truck. One other thing I wanted to do, was add a power pole (Anderson or similar), like what they use for connecting the battery on a forklift to its charger. I would want one on the front and rear of the vehicle, and I would use it for charging the battery/batteries, and make custom jumper cables, etc. You could then have high amperage dc voltage available on either side/end of the truck (think hooking up to solar, or using an additional inverter in it's own box, etc). How did you fabricate the isolator enclosure?
+Reagans Ridge thank you. I have a wood box i made with a motorcycle battery and a 400w inverter. its small enough to pack.
I fabricated the box out of 18ga aluminum sheet with a bending brake and TIG welded the corners. I made a sheet metal bracket and welded it to the box. I bolted the bracket to existing hardware for battery tray after i riveted all the fuses in the box.
Really regret not buying the little press break that was scrapped out at my work. It was a smaller unit that only took 3 guys to load up for the guy who did buy it. He is making all sorts of cool sheet metal gadgets lately.
I am thinking unless I can enlist the help of someone with more hobby tools than myself, I will have to modify already manufactured components.
Great Job...... I'm in the process of mirroring your setup. What gauge wires did you use throughout the project? And also how did you wire up the resistor to control the voltmeter? Thanks. And again GREAT JOB..
M.L. Scott I used 4ga for the mains and I think it was 8ga for everything else. Its been a while. The resistor just went inline on positive terminal before the voltmeter. Make a video of your setup when you're done and send me the link. I'd like to see it.
Thanks.....Will do.
Hey looks extremely clean my concerns are you gonna lot of extra wire runs almost unnecessary and might have been nice to have put that fuse Box in the cab so you won't have all the extra wire running around shit... great job tho.
Paul, I love your setup and if possible I'd love to recreate it. Can you tell me the items you used for me to go and purchase? ash
Sourced everything from ebay.
good video and clean setup
+JK BLUE thanks
Why did you put 2 fuse on the isolator from my knowledge if one blows the line is already dead
nice how about a parts list
While Lotta talking were was the battery install?
can i just run it parallel? connect 2nd battery's cables to the existing batteries + -. its for a small sedan. thanks.
You can but your gonna want a isolator at least to keep your battery from draining down.
This is only good if you want them to be separate. My setup needs to be ran with truck on. And need power from both batteries.
Very tidy. Nice job.
I bought the isolator on ebay for $50 and fabricated the box out of aluminum.
Do you have the dimensions on that box?
paul louscher can you make me one
Yes can make me one
What gauge wire did you use? Also what amp output does your alternator put out and what size in-line fuses did you decide to use? Nice clean set up. I have a Ram with a 160 amp alternator and can't quite figure out the in-line fuse size.
If you use group size H6 battery the bracket will fit like it should
I will have to look into that.... and find where I put that bracket! Haha. Thanks for the comment!
Can you provide the source of the 12v ignition for the isolator? From my research, the only 12v ignition-ready source is from the radio (sometimes) pink wire. My issue with that, is when key is turned, radio is on, I dont want the batteries feeding off one another, is this possible?
God bless you 🙏❤ explain all details like professor
CLEAN SETUP!!
What fuse did u tap in to for power when engine is on only I can’t find anything I’ve tested every single fuse on my 05
I used a switching 12v source from the fuse box. I don't remember which one I used. That only powers the solenoid to connect the two batteries together and start the charging of the second battery.
Nicely done!
So in theory, running a second battery could allow you to wire your own trailer connections
The question: I just added a new 2ndary battery in my 01 Silverado 8100. This is how I connected them, I connected the positive wire from the 2nd battery running through a fuze and a solenoid to the positive end of the primary battery. the negative wire from the 2nd battery into the frame. Is this correct?
It depends on your system requirements. Im no electrician but that sounds like it should work just fine.
What did you ground your inverter to? I just did an install on my Silverado. I ran 4 awg to a 750 watt inverter in the bed. I am wondering where the best place to ground is or if I should run a ground all the way back to the negative terminal.
Keep the ground short. Clean down to bare metal and use dielectric grease. Make sure the positive cable is within amp specs for the length of cable you have. I will do an update video soon, with details of my 1700 watt inverter setup.
paul louscher good advise! I used 4 gauge welding cable. Hopefully that’s heavy enough. I might end up moving the inverter into the cab at some point.
What did you ground to on your setup? Any recommendations for ground location near back the back of the bed?
@@ryanm2273 I used 0 AWG cable and only went to the cab. make sure you size the wire right. I ran my ground directly to the frame, cleaned down to bare metal, and smeared grease over the connection. check out my update video.
that box is fucking COOL
Nice setup
Where did you install the wire coming from the isolator to the ignition? Did you use an ignition fuse or somewhere under the steering wheel?
Dorian Elzy I used a switchable 12v, in an open fuse location underneath the dash. Installed my own 5amp fuse.
paul louscher could I install it to my remote wire coming from the back of my after market radio? I’m using the isolator for a second battery to power my subs and amp and just need a switched source for isolator but don’t know what I could tap into
I'm not an electrician, but that would seem fine to me.
What gauge is your ground that runs off the isolator
Do you have a part name or number for that phone charger / cigarette conection in the rear of the truck by the tailgate?
www.ebay.com/itm/Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Splitter-12V-Dual-USB-Charger-Power-Adapter-Outlet-Car-/121746630793?hash=item1c58aa2889:g:m-wAAOSwT6pV5BXg
What size battery does that side take also? Thanks for your help
daniel houser I bought the tray on eBay and the battery is a stock battery.
Where did you get that box? What battery did you use. I’m doing the same set up curious where u got it and btw the bracket you had to take off to put the battery there, did u keep it off? Mine won’t go back on because of the battery. Will it affect the trucks stability. Sorry for the questions I’m not an expert on these things.
John Waggoner I made the box. I did not put the bracket back. I don't think it affects the stability.
paul louscher thank you
Hi Paul, will this setup also allow you to jump start your truck using the AUX battery?
yes
Did u connect the grounds from battery to battery? Im not a mechanic, just a diy but i did read of a 'hall effect sensor' that is clamped to neg battery wire on factory ground wire. From what i can understand, that sensor tells the computer how charged ur battery is an im assuming how long the alternator needs to charge. Just looking for some ideas an see if im doing it correctly
djrudy1977 they are both body grounded so technically they are connected together. maybe one day I'll install a better solenoid but this one is doing the job.
where did you get the battery tray for the second battery ?
+FromThe3PointLine I got it on ebay for $30. easier then making one.
@@Paul_Built AutoZone can order it too. Dorman Battery Tray. OE-00085
What is the manufacturer of the power source in the bed of the truck.
What power source are you asking about? The 120 outlet is just an extension cord. The 12v source is just a cheap unit from eBay.
Okay. Are you able to fab a box for sale or provide a drawing with the dimensions so I can find a fabricator.
@@tfergusonjr it depends on where you are. I just whipped it out one day. I didnt take any measurements. Any good Fab shop should be able to make something for you.
Very neat
May I suggest labels on the fuses? You obviously already forgot what goes where
say you are going on a long trip and not using any accessories hooked up the the second battery, this may be stupid but will it overcharge?
Michael R. Head, batteries love to be charged way more then discharged. I've had this system for a couple years now and have not experienced that problem. you can also look into voltage regulating solenoids as well.
Think there may be a need for a dual alternater set up?
not for my purpose. the HO alternator i put on it does the trick.
Did you mount the inverter under the back seat?
cavemandancer th-cam.com/video/dAcMFpoq81Y/w-d-xo.html
are both batteries used during starting?
Yes. When the ignition is turned on, the solenoid is activated and both batteries are connected. So yes, technically both batteries are being used when starting.
@@Paul_Built I have factory duls on my silverado...I always was thinking they dont
I don't know about the factory dual system. Mine came with only one battery.
Are the cca's identical? I thought they had to be. .
Delightful Douschebaggery no they are not. I never heard they had to be.... would make jump staring other cars a little difficult if that was the case.
Where can I get that oem second battery tray?
ebay
ebay
I got it on ebay.
I snagged one from the junkyard. Im gonna do something similar. Great ideas from this video.
What group size is the extra battery?
Same group as stock battery. I don't remember. Group 26 maybe?
Is possible you show as the diagram for connection please, thanks
And links for the parts
So it doesn't mess up your alternator?
no
Why would it. He still uses the same power as before he just has more capacity/storage
Nice work.
Where is the positive wire for the invertor you just said you grounded the invertor with the blue wire
Good info, but a schematic wiring diagram would have been much more useful than your finger that blocked the view much of the time. ;-)
Great vid thank you
Nice job.
OW, Impressive!!~
2 gauge?? holy **** what are you running a refrigerator, air compressor, and 50 sub woofers in that thing? thats thicker than the wires on my 240V 450A welder lol GOD DAM
Check out my update videos. I run power tools out of the back of my truck.
good job but you need to upgrade the Alternator wire as well. the small fusible link is only a 10Ga. wire at best. otherwise your entire install is for nothing.
Actually, I don't need to upgrade that, and my install is not "for nothing". My setup has been working problem free for years, so.... thanks for your opinion though.
Nice video man and wicked setup. Don’t listen to this goof, he was commenting crap on my video as well.
Real nice and clean setup
Forget to put 0/1 wire from power plant to ... battery still charging your system with 18 gauge speaker wire
I don't have 18ga speaker wire on any part of my system and there are update videos if you're interested.
Good Job!
Hi I think is badass I'll like to install 1 like if you have some time would you send me all the items that you used and a brief explanation I will appreciate any advice thanks
Why?
clean finish.
looks good ....lot of time
elwood polaris rzr , it wasn't that much time. About a days worth of work.
great job I need to put one in my truck ... I will refer back to this video
elwood polaris rzr check out my update video. th-cam.com/video/dAcMFpoq81Y/w-d-xo.html
YeSir.u.The.Man...
1/12 on the battery sheesh I’m late 🤣
ckean setup
how about taking a bus to the next town!!!
Is there some law that says don't use real battery cable for stereo systems? Everyone uses that shit Chinese jelly wire for some reason. It actually costs less to use real deal battery cable. ???????
jim davidson, I never used the cheap Chinese wire before and I have already replaced it all with real wire. I don't recommend using that stuff. it's junk!
But in your video, that clear red wire. It burns like mad. Try soldering a ring terminal on it. Have a fire extinguisher handy. You can buy real battery cable for less money than that car stereo fire wire. It has a much higher rated melting/burning temp at 105C. And it's REAL copper wire. Clean install brother but the products need help.
jim davidson like I said in previous comment. the wire was temporary and is now replaced with copper battery cables.
A lot cheaper ??? $30 bucks for a flat piece of 16 gauge steel with a few holes drilled into it ? Im so glad I can do these things for myself, I couldn't spend the amount of money some people do on simple things like this.
Steve Lamperta look dude! Do us all a favor and leave the negativity at the door! You have no idea what you're talking about! If you're referring to the "battery" mount, it is a little more complex then a simple piece of 16ga. And if you're so damn good at fabricating, maybe you should get someone to pay you for it. Then maybe you could afford $30.... And yes there is such thing and a deep cycle battery that has the required CCA to start a full size truck.
@steve lamperta you strike me as an older gentleman on disablity and is angry ay the world.. probably has like 3 old rusted out cars in your backyard that you have been "restoring" for like 20 years
and there is no such battory as a deepcycle and starting batt !
What gauge is your ground that runs off the isolator
Bless Baby th-cam.com/video/dAcMFpoq81Y/w-d-xo.html