I got that exact same kit as you off of Amazon 6 months ago or so. I saw that cable and just threw it in the box and forgot about it. Good thing you said something.
Another great tutorial, thank you. FNIRSI seem to be the better choice for the last 12 or so. I've never heard a bad word against them. I have to rebuild and refit my workshop, no thanks to thieves that burned what they couldn't carry. I'll be looking at these guy's prices first. Of course I'll never get back the 50yrs of gear I built/modified myself.
Nothing heard from the Police. Think I will call them today. Unfortunately this is the world we live in now. Breaks my heart. This is small town rural Australia. Might have to go prospecting Opal.
@@snakezdewiggle6084 I hope they get them! I recently experienced a theft too, but all they took were some shovels and rakes. Nothing like your case. I think I'd be devastated.
The thing that gets me, its an invasion of privacy. A person has the right to make a living. They took Your Shovels and Rakes! I'm sorry to hear that. Thats a violation, a trespass, asault even. imo. Rule No.1: You don't touch another person's tools. Anyway, I would be happy to just get the equipment back. Thank you for your interest. I enjoy your videos, they are a great distraction at the moment.☺
I have two (one big tip, and one tiny tip for fast switchover on SMD boards) and love them. I use a dummy USB connector wired with the shield only connected to a heavy wire to ground the tips. That is then plugged into an empty USB jack on the power adaptor. I ground the wire to an adjacent ground pin on the mains outlet using a pin removed from a replacement 3 pin power plug. My antistatic mats are connected to the same power strip. You do need to confirm that your adapter or hub connects all the USB shields together for this to work, but I've not found one PD charger yet that doesn't connect them this way for RFI shielding.
i bought one of these after buying multiple $15 temp control irons only to have them fail in 6 months best purchase i have ever made heats up lightning quick only thing i could see wearing out is the type c port on the iron so i just never unplug the cable from the iron when i put it away.
I was exicited about this until I notice the propritary tips. I instead decided to go with a soldering iron with the t12 tips that are more readily available. The control box is separate, but still small enough to not take up much space.
They are not completely proprietary. The SH72/T85/T65 tips will fit and work. They are a little longer than the FNIRSI ones, so you can't level them in if you put the cap back on. For me that's not an issue as I never put the cap back on. My HS-01 irons are in their stands all the time.
@uni-byte Maybe I'll take another look. I wanted it for installing heat inserts on 3d prints. I have a 40w cheapy soldering iron, but it sits there and cooks the tips if I don't unplug it. My brass adapters don't look very brass anymore, but much darker.
@@Hellhound604 Okay. Support did tell me that ordering directly from China would get me the correct pig-tail. I guess the problem exists only with NA stock. Still a good idea to check before plugging in your iron.
Of course they probably buy that cable from someone else. I have purchased those adapters before and I never thought to check it. I will now. Rather than fixing it you could just buy a new cable from Amazon. They are not expensive. Of course the damage is done now, but depends on what damage was done to the soldering iron. You might be able to repair it. What do you think of the hs-01 vs the hs-02. The tips on the hs-02 seem a bit weak compared to those on the hs-01.
I'm not going to fix the cable as you say. Not worth it. FNIRSI sent me a new one anyway. I did fix the iron. See my video #0230 for that. I have not had a chance to use the HS-02, but you are right, the shaft of teh tips loos a lot more delicate. They do have more metal on teh tip end though, so might have more heat stored there and may respond better for heavier thermal loads. I may get one to find out.
I have a similar iron by Quecoo. It doesn't suffer from the lack of grounding(built in grounding point and included groind lead) and has a built in barrel jack. The element socket is Hakko compatible btw, these units are absolutely worth their weight in gold. I've heard so many people talking negatively of these Chinese brands, but I do have to say that they at least seem to be trying to do good business. As far as "Webstore x is bad and you shouldn't buy from them." goes, I won't even buy anything without scouring every last inch of every last one as they've all done me right so far.
Yeah, people are fond of their China bashing. Back when I was a kid the Chinese were not the manufacturing hub they are now. Then it was Jap-scrap. Now Japanese stuff is pretty much the most revered in the world.
@@uni-byte Japan has a culture of quality, while china very much does not. China is getting better, but it's unlikely they will ever reach quality levels of american, german or japanese production unless there is a radical departure from their current culture around quality.
@@uni-byte Even for chinese companies who are dedicated to quality, it's an uphill climb. The problem is, most chinese companies will lie about specs, even of basic materials, cheat by providing a sample and swapping the material, or general fail qc as much as they can get away with. So any company dedicated to quality there has to import their materials, or face a constant battle for quality materials. Most of them just do the bare minimum to get sales though.
Thank you for the video! But I didn't understand what the problem was - on the other side of the cable, you have the USB-C plug, and it connects to the soldering iron, in any way: you can connect it in any way you choose (around the clock - even at 180 degrees)! So in fact the polarity of the connection on the side of the DC socket is of no importance - isn't it?
Just bought one of these. Luckily, the Blue one. What I'd really like to find is a case for the whole kit. Something to keep all the bits like the power supply, the power cord, the tips and all in one place so they don't get scattered around and lost. So, any ideas about a case for this baby?
u can search "FNIRSI HS-02 Smart Electric Soldering Iron PD 100W Adjustable Constant Temperature Fast Heat Portable Soldering Iron Station Kit" this v2 model have options that include a case, plus V2 uses PD 100W for higher output but it costs $5 dollars at 95cad compare to a V1 full kit at 90USD... but still worth it imo
Maybe one of you can help me with my hs01? today was about to do some work with it and it didnt power up. I¡ve tested some things and found that it connects to the pc pressing the left button when plugging the usb c, it doesnt have anything on display and i am not sure but i think it doesnt heat up when prompted to. But i felt that it was warm the first time i saw there were nothing on display so not sure.... Any help would be apreciated, ty.
Can you do a firmware upload? Also, try just plugging it in to a 65W or better supply, wait a few seconds, then quickly press the button toward the tip. See if it heats up. IF you can do a firmware update and/or get it to heat up, it may just be a bad solder joint on the display. Otherwise I'd say it the processor. Again, it could just be a bad solder joint on the processor and re-flowing the all the pins might fix it (us A LOT of flux doing this - Like Louis Rossman!).
@@uni-byte Yeah, seems to be the display. It updates and it heats up. But i had to press more than once, so maybe it didnt detect the press XD. Is it posible to find replacements for the screen?
@@gamerz181 I can't think of where you would get the display. You might try contacting FNIRSI, but it may just need a solder joint or two touched up where the ribbon cable meets the PCB.
I've been thinking about getting one of these for a while. I have the Pinecil soldering iron which great for the most part and is kinda similar to the FNIRSI but I guess more similar to the TS100. The only thing I don't like about it is it has an annoying issue where the power delivery is extremely fussy so it only works with a few usb c wall chargers and I have quite a few and none work fully even though the specs of the chargers are exactly what the thing calls for. I wonder if the FNIRSI has the same issue?
I love my Pinecil but getting them to Canada SUCKS. It's $30 USD shipping which is absurd. Knowing there is a decent soldering iron out there that doesn't cost too much is nice
Hey Pat, no I haven't had that issue (yet). The PD power bricks they come with seem to do the job quite well. Maybe if you could get you hands on something like a 95+ watt genuine Lenovo laptop USB-C PD power brick. I've used them on cantankerous devices and have had no further trouble
@@FlakAttack0 FNIRSI seem to offer free shipping on everything either through AliExpress or Amazon. Do you have to order the Pinecil directly from the manufacturer?
@@uni-byte Unfortunately we need to order them from the manufacturer. PINE64 says they price the shipping to Canada so high because they have to use Fedex, otherwise the products get lost in customs. Honestly I believe them; shipping to Canada is an absolutely awful experience. That doesn't change that it makes PINE64 products very unattractive for Canadians despite their otherwise low prices and good quality.
@@FlakAttack0 Have to agree with you about Canada Post. Worst postal service in first-world western society. If the service from abroad does not have tracking number that Canada Post have to track, about 30% of shipments are either lost, thrown out or stolen by employees. The exception maybe some European countries and the UK. However most European countries offer tracked shipping at a fraction of the cost of Canada Post. This is one of the reasons I only buy things off AliExpress that are shipped by AliExpress. They send them in bulk to UBI who then pass them on to Canada Post using a tracked service like Expedited Parcel. Can you tell I'm Canadian too?
I'm curious if you know if FINIRSI knows you have a TH-cam channel, and gave you special treatment because of that. That said, this soldering iron looks great! I might pair it with a Hakko style stand. What's your thinking on that?
The retail side (AliExpress store) might remember. I have never mentioned it to the support folks. It's a possibility but I don't think my channel is big enough for their "RADAR" yet. LOL!
@@uni-byte I paid $56 CAD and got no tips with it. Now just looking for a good solder sucker recommendation, I bought a cheap kit with wick but it wasn't even sucking any solder.
@@izhanshafiq324 That's a really good price for that iron. Google "engineer solder sucker". I have one of those and I love it. I also have the AliExpress copy of it and it works just as well. If you go back to my Mailbag #29 video (Uni-Byte 0215) I show it there and there is a link to it.
I would cut the pigtail and re-splice it so the polarity is correct. Of course, you could also try to contact FNIRSI, perhaps they would be willing to help you out.
Super No-Hype, detailed-packed video (a rarity on the Tube). Q. I'm guessing that this wouldn't change anything polarity wise... (he said) but I might have plugged the pigtail's C into the iron and then powered the barrel jack, yes/no? Are the genders right for that? And yes, I'm prepaired to be embarrassed so let me have it straight. Thank you for the video - Mikey Likes! And I'd like to scOOp one up (black please - that's what she said!). Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left.
Thanks! The direction you pass power in a USB-C should not change the gender. Neither will flipping it over. It's designed that way to either supply or use power in either direction. The same goes for other forms of USB, but they are keyed to prevent reversing the power accidently. USB-C is not keyed but the power goes through both top row and bottom row with a - and a + on both rows. Kind of like this: Top row of pins: (-ll+lll+ll-) Bottom row of pins: (-II+III+ll-)
@@uni-byte Thank you (arigatō). I understand more now. BTW - This is all going on my resume The check is in the mail. It's true what people are saying; You do RoCk. But don't let that go to your head Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left.
I got that exact same kit as you off of Amazon 6 months ago or so. I saw that cable and just threw it in the box and forgot about it. Good thing you said something.
It had to be said.
Forty years on the cord and I bought one of those things, I don't know why I didn't buy one sooner
Yeah, they're pretty nice indeed.
Another great tutorial, thank you.
FNIRSI seem to be the better choice for the last 12 or so. I've never heard a bad word against them.
I have to rebuild and refit my workshop, no thanks to thieves that burned what they couldn't carry.
I'll be looking at these guy's prices first.
Of course I'll never get back the 50yrs of gear I built/modified myself.
Wow! That sounds like a terrible experience! Did they catch the people responsible?
Nothing heard from the Police. Think I will call them today.
Unfortunately this is the world we live in now.
Breaks my heart.
This is small town rural Australia. Might have to go prospecting Opal.
@@snakezdewiggle6084 I hope they get them! I recently experienced a theft too, but all they took were some shovels and rakes. Nothing like your case. I think I'd be devastated.
The thing that gets me, its an invasion of privacy. A person has the right to make a living.
They took Your Shovels and Rakes! I'm sorry to hear that. Thats a violation, a trespass, asault even. imo.
Rule No.1: You don't touch another person's tools.
Anyway, I would be happy to just get the equipment back.
Thank you for your interest. I enjoy your videos, they are a great distraction at the moment.☺
I have two (one big tip, and one tiny tip for fast switchover on SMD boards) and love them. I use a dummy USB connector wired with the shield only connected to a heavy wire to ground the tips. That is then plugged into an empty USB jack on the power adaptor.
I ground the wire to an adjacent ground pin on the mains outlet using a pin removed from a replacement 3 pin power plug. My antistatic mats are connected to the same power strip.
You do need to confirm that your adapter or hub connects all the USB shields together for this to work, but I've not found one PD charger yet that doesn't connect them this way for RFI shielding.
Good information, thanks!
i bought one of these after buying multiple $15 temp control irons only to have them fail in 6 months best purchase i have ever made heats up lightning quick only thing i could see wearing out is the type c port on the iron so i just never unplug the cable from the iron when i put it away.
Good idea!
A great public service, thanks ! This is the iron I will by if I mess up changing the dead screen on my TS100.....cheers.
Thanks!
I was exicited about this until I notice the propritary tips. I instead decided to go with a soldering iron with the t12 tips that are more readily available. The control box is separate, but still small enough to not take up much space.
They are not completely proprietary. The SH72/T85/T65 tips will fit and work. They are a little longer than the FNIRSI ones, so you can't level them in if you put the cap back on. For me that's not an issue as I never put the cap back on. My HS-01 irons are in their stands all the time.
@uni-byte Maybe I'll take another look. I wanted it for installing heat inserts on 3d prints. I have a 40w cheapy soldering iron, but it sits there and cooks the tips if I don't unplug it. My brass adapters don't look very brass anymore, but much darker.
Thanka for the tip. I like mine, but I have never used that little pig-tailed thing. Will check mine out.
Please let us know the results.
@@uni-byte i just checked mine, a black one. The center of the DC-barrel jack is + on mine.
@@Hellhound604 interesting, thanks. Did you get your directly from China (AliExpress or the like)?
@@uni-byte got it directly from China in February.
@@Hellhound604 Okay. Support did tell me that ordering directly from China would get me the correct pig-tail. I guess the problem exists only with NA stock. Still a good idea to check before plugging in your iron.
Of course they probably buy that cable from someone else. I have purchased those adapters before and I never thought to check it. I will now. Rather than fixing it you could just buy a new cable from Amazon. They are not expensive. Of course the damage is done now, but depends on what damage was done to the soldering iron. You might be able to repair it.
What do you think of the hs-01 vs the hs-02. The tips on the hs-02 seem a bit weak compared to those on the hs-01.
I'm not going to fix the cable as you say. Not worth it. FNIRSI sent me a new one anyway. I did fix the iron. See my video #0230 for that.
I have not had a chance to use the HS-02, but you are right, the shaft of teh tips loos a lot more delicate. They do have more metal on teh tip end though, so might have more heat stored there and may respond better for heavier thermal loads.
I may get one to find out.
I have a similar iron by Quecoo. It doesn't suffer from the lack of grounding(built in grounding point and included groind lead) and has a built in barrel jack. The element socket is Hakko compatible btw, these units are absolutely worth their weight in gold.
I've heard so many people talking negatively of these Chinese brands, but I do have to say that they at least seem to be trying to do good business.
As far as "Webstore x is bad and you shouldn't buy from them." goes, I won't even buy anything without scouring every last inch of every last one as they've all done me right so far.
Yeah, people are fond of their China bashing. Back when I was a kid the Chinese were not the manufacturing hub they are now. Then it was Jap-scrap. Now Japanese stuff is pretty much the most revered in the world.
@@uni-byte Japan has a culture of quality, while china very much does not. China is getting better, but it's unlikely they will ever reach quality levels of american, german or japanese production unless there is a radical departure from their current culture around quality.
@@PineyJustice Agreed. There are some Chinese companies dedicated to quality, but there are also a great many that bottom feed the market.
@@uni-byte Even for chinese companies who are dedicated to quality, it's an uphill climb. The problem is, most chinese companies will lie about specs, even of basic materials, cheat by providing a sample and swapping the material, or general fail qc as much as they can get away with. So any company dedicated to quality there has to import their materials, or face a constant battle for quality materials. Most of them just do the bare minimum to get sales though.
Thank you for the video! But I didn't understand what the problem was - on the other side of the cable, you have the USB-C plug, and it connects to the soldering iron, in any way: you can connect it in any way you choose (around the clock - even at 180 degrees)! So in fact the polarity of the connection on the side of the DC socket is of no importance - isn't it?
It is when the other socket is a DC power jack. Polarity must be correct as it can only be plugged in in one orientation.
I got this, and for the price...it just cant be beat!
Agreed!
Just bought one of these. Luckily, the Blue one.
What I'd really like to find is a case for the whole kit. Something to keep all the bits like the power supply, the power cord, the tips and all in one place so they don't get scattered around and lost. So, any ideas about a case for this baby?
I've been looking. Let's make a deal. If I find one before you, I'll replay here again, If you find before me, let us know. What say you?
@@uni-byte Your on!
@@evensteve284 👍
u can search "FNIRSI HS-02 Smart Electric Soldering Iron PD 100W Adjustable Constant Temperature Fast Heat Portable Soldering Iron Station Kit"
this v2 model have options that include a case, plus V2 uses PD 100W for higher output
but it costs $5 dollars at 95cad compare to a V1 full kit at 90USD... but still worth it imo
Maybe one of you can help me with my hs01? today was about to do some work with it and it didnt power up. I¡ve tested some things and found that it connects to the pc pressing the left button when plugging the usb c, it doesnt have anything on display and i am not sure but i think it doesnt heat up when prompted to. But i felt that it was warm the first time i saw there were nothing on display so not sure.... Any help would be apreciated, ty.
Can you do a firmware upload?
Also, try just plugging it in to a 65W or better supply, wait a few seconds, then quickly press the button toward the tip. See if it heats up.
IF you can do a firmware update and/or get it to heat up, it may just be a bad solder joint on the display. Otherwise I'd say it the processor. Again, it could just be a bad solder joint on the processor and re-flowing the all the pins might fix it (us A LOT of flux doing this - Like Louis Rossman!).
@@uni-byte Yeah, seems to be the display. It updates and it heats up. But i had to press more than once, so maybe it didnt detect the press XD. Is it posible to find replacements for the screen?
@@gamerz181 I can't think of where you would get the display. You might try contacting FNIRSI, but it may just need a solder joint or two touched up where the ribbon cable meets the PCB.
I've been thinking about getting one of these for a while. I have the Pinecil soldering iron which great for the most part and is kinda similar to the FNIRSI but I guess more similar to the TS100. The only thing I don't like about it is it has an annoying issue where the power delivery is extremely fussy so it only works with a few usb c wall chargers and I have quite a few and none work fully even though the specs of the chargers are exactly what the thing calls for. I wonder if the FNIRSI has the same issue?
I love my Pinecil but getting them to Canada SUCKS. It's $30 USD shipping which is absurd. Knowing there is a decent soldering iron out there that doesn't cost too much is nice
Hey Pat, no I haven't had that issue (yet). The PD power bricks they come with seem to do the job quite well. Maybe if you could get you hands on something like a 95+ watt genuine Lenovo laptop USB-C PD power brick. I've used them on cantankerous devices and have had no further trouble
@@FlakAttack0 FNIRSI seem to offer free shipping on everything either through AliExpress or Amazon. Do you have to order the Pinecil directly from the manufacturer?
@@uni-byte Unfortunately we need to order them from the manufacturer. PINE64 says they price the shipping to Canada so high because they have to use Fedex, otherwise the products get lost in customs. Honestly I believe them; shipping to Canada is an absolutely awful experience. That doesn't change that it makes PINE64 products very unattractive for Canadians despite their otherwise low prices and good quality.
@@FlakAttack0 Have to agree with you about Canada Post. Worst postal service in first-world western society. If the service from abroad does not have tracking number that Canada Post have to track, about 30% of shipments are either lost, thrown out or stolen by employees. The exception maybe some European countries and the UK. However most European countries offer tracked shipping at a fraction of the cost of Canada Post. This is one of the reasons I only buy things off AliExpress that are shipped by AliExpress. They send them in bulk to UBI who then pass them on to Canada Post using a tracked service like Expedited Parcel. Can you tell I'm Canadian too?
I'm curious if you know if FINIRSI knows you have a TH-cam channel, and gave you special treatment because of that.
That said, this soldering iron looks great!
I might pair it with a Hakko style stand. What's your thinking on that?
The retail side (AliExpress store) might remember. I have never mentioned it to the support folks. It's a possibility but I don't think my channel is big enough for their "RADAR" yet. LOL!
@@uni-byte Good to know, thanks!
I should've watched your video before I got the Hakko FX-600
I think that Hakko is bit overpriced for what you get.
@@uni-byte I paid $56 CAD and got no tips with it.
Now just looking for a good solder sucker recommendation, I bought a cheap kit with wick but it wasn't even sucking any solder.
@@izhanshafiq324 That's a really good price for that iron. Google "engineer solder sucker". I have one of those and I love it. I also have the AliExpress copy of it and it works just as well. If you go back to my Mailbag #29 video (Uni-Byte 0215) I show it there and there is a link to it.
nice tutorial 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you! Cheers!
hey i have the same issue how can i fix it because i cant return it back the refund period is over
I would cut the pigtail and re-splice it so the polarity is correct. Of course, you could also try to contact FNIRSI, perhaps they would be willing to help you out.
Thanks for the video....
My pleasure, and thank you for viewing and commenting!
This video could have been 2 mins long instead of 14, all his saying is check polarity of supplied power cable and make sure center pin is positive
Well, no. More information is given than that.
Super No-Hype, detailed-packed video (a rarity on the Tube). Q. I'm guessing that this wouldn't change anything polarity wise... (he said) but I might have plugged the pigtail's C into the iron and then powered the barrel jack, yes/no? Are the genders right for that? And yes, I'm prepaired to be embarrassed so let me have it straight. Thank you for the video - Mikey Likes! And I'd like to scOOp one up (black please - that's what she said!). Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left.
Thanks!
The direction you pass power in a USB-C should not change the gender. Neither will flipping it over. It's designed that way to either supply or use power in either direction. The same goes for other forms of USB, but they are keyed to prevent reversing the power accidently. USB-C is not keyed but the power goes through both top row and bottom row with a - and a + on both rows. Kind of like this:
Top row of pins: (-ll+lll+ll-)
Bottom row of pins: (-II+III+ll-)
@@uni-byte Thank you (arigatō). I understand more now. BTW - This is all going on my resume The check is in the mail. It's true what people are saying; You do RoCk. But don't let that go to your head Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left.
@@ovalwingnut You're welcome.