This looks like a 2.4l 2azfe engine thats the same as in a bunch of other 4 banger toyotas. I have one in my 07 camry with a bearing going out and you can only reach 1 connecting rod without removing the crank case. I'm thinking it's almost identical to this video here, so im going to tear into it. I had tons of flakes from bearing material in the oil pan with a nasty knock after I did the head gasket. Too bad its a manual transmission so I wont have any wiggle room for the crank bearings. Thanks for showing this video it's the only one I've found i wasn't sure it could even be done without pulling the engine and trans.
Post job update: the biggest hang up was getting the crankcase (upper oil pan) out. The bolts were easy to reach but I recommend removing a section of exhaust because the crankcase itself is very hard to maneuver into place. Overall, lots of gasket material has to be cleaned off, the engine must be retimed, and since it's a manual transmission, the top bearings had to be spun out with a screw in the crankshaft oil port. If I was a shop I would charge probably 2 grand for it because it's tons of tedious labour. Definitely better than pulling the engine with the manual trans though. If you have any questions respond here I might read it.
@@guygaric940 Check your pcv valve. How many miles are on the car? Mine used to burn that much until the dude at autozone performed surgery on mine. Took the pcv valve and cleaned it out with break cleaner and rust penetrate. Also, check the hose for cracks where it connects to the pcv valve. if it's cracked, the vacuum pressure might be too low from the cracks and may not be opening the valve to let the blowby gases through. If I were you though, I'd replace the pcv hose + valve.
Why tear the bottom end out of the engine in the car if the whole things coming out anyway? The gaping hole in the upper oil pan should have been clue enough the engine was toast.
The oil pump definitely takes near the least amount of damage of critical engine parts when there is a loss of oil pressure. If the engine still runs quiet with oil back in it, you can assume the pump to be fine. Certainly any obvious rhythmic knocking or tapping, or erratic squeaking noises (see my Galant video for example of that) means the engine is damaged. What damages pumps is pumping metal particles being produced by a damaged engine. If it ran without oil enough to get damaged and produce metal debris, putting oil back puts some of that debris through the oil pump and causes abnormal wear that can lead to low oil pressure as it wears out prematurely..
thanks for sharing, is an overhaul (taking to a shop to rebuild), the only way to go, here? or is there a way to change parts like, bearings piston, i have a 32 valve, that suffered a similar situation, i found it new and used, but i want to know other options, or does it have to be machined anyways?? have a great day.
The damage in this case is very severe, and would cost many times more than a used engine to repair the existing engine. This engine would need a new crank, 2 new con rods, rings, bearings, cylinders rebored to larger diameter (due to cylinder wall galling) and a set of OD pistons to fix. I didn't even look at possible damage to the head, but it's very likely there is damage up there too. To summarize, this would only be worth repairing if the engine was some kind of exotic one that could not be obtained used AND was going in a valuable car.
Thanks a lot, for the great info, i will go for a used one, i plan on changing the timing chain guide and tensioner before. Do you have any input on oil pump and screen?.thanks again
If the used engine is ok in general, I'd leave the existing oil pump in it. I've never changed the oil pump as part of a used engine install and never had a problem, but I'm talking about customer cars that will see average use. Something to keep in mind is that a new part has no history of doing it's job properly but a used good part is known to be fine. For instance, I'm aware of problems with a certain application of aftermarket VW oil pump where the pump works fine initially but is guaranteed to quickly fail prematurely. If you have the pan off and can look at the screen, that will give you some idea of what the oil pump has been ingesting. If the screen/pickup tube can be completely cleaned, it's fine to re-use. They can get obstructed/clogged, but don't mechanically wear out.
+Fopeano Was looking for vids to watch and recognized your name. Always searching for channels with good content on Y-Tube. Having hero's who always know more than you is why i'm seldom on ETCG forums anymore. Too many hero's there too. You need to supply some new vids and i'll certainly subscribe.
I broke the upper oil pan when I was prying around on it. Kind of on purpose because it was all going to scrap anyway, and I could play around with it a little. If that was going back together, I wouldn't have broken or abused anything.
Nobody ever told me that. All I really know is that it came in seized with no drain plug installed, and the guy had done his own oil change. I don't even know why it came to our shop in particular.
Found you from chris fix just now... ;-) doing some youtube drive bys and you know how youtube recommends vids.. can you tell me the backstory on this car? did the owner just let the oil run out or did an accident happen they were unaware of that caused this? did insurance cover the cost or the owner directly? and... did the fiance' finally get to drop the kids off at the pool in front of the misses? ;-)
+Marc Abernathy - The Customer had the drain plug fall out and then drove it until it stopped. I Can't remember the specifics of why it ended up in our shop, but it was the customer who did their own oil change and didn't tighten it. As for the Fiance', he knocked her and they shipped off to Florida shortly after this video to get hitched and make babies in the sun.
Yes, it's in a perfect position to do that. If it's automatic, the torque converter will even allow the crankshaft to be tilted down so you don't have to sheak the upper mains around such a tight spot. I will also say that I would have preferred to be able to replace all the bearings in this particular car. It was about 20 hours to replace the engine, excessive for a 4 cylinder economy car. bearings would have been a quicker job.
If you unbolt all the main caps at once, the crank is going to sag down against the front seal unless the timing chain is still holding it up. as far as clearance, I can't remember if the bottom of the timing cover is in the way of the #1 main bearing cap.
hello thanks for showing this video, i have the same problem but that upper oil pan doesnt separate from the crank case,can you please tell me how many bolts did you pull? maybe there is more that i dont see.... thankyou so much
Was a long time ago, but I remember the bitch bolt in there was accessible only after removing the tube that the oil filter threaded onto. Around 1:20 you can see I undo something there with a 17mm or 19mm socket and then take out the bolt with a 14mm.
I have a 2000 expedition xlt. The drain plug came out somehow ans the motor is locked now. Is getting another motor or having the 1 I have rebuilt the only option?
This kind of thing causes widespread severe damage. It may be possible to rebuild, but likely at a astronomical cost. What will happen is you have a junkyard engine put in it. They like to call them "Used Salvage" or "OEM Recycled" parts nowadays, but make no mistake that they are junkyard parts. I'm not saying not to put a used engine in, just that it is a used engine that has been sitting for any amount of time. That just means that there will be parts and labor required to make the used engine suitable to be installed into a roadworthy vehicle. Every junkyard engine and transmission I install always needs at least a hour of work and $100 in gaskets, seals, filters, cooler flush, fluids, etc. Good luck dealing with your Expedition, but it may be time to let it go if it's spent it's life in a winter/salt climate like I work in.
I have an older Camry with a bad engine. Would I be better to buy a low mileage salvage car and pull the engine, a junk yard engine w/100k miles or a Japan Direct Motor (JDM)? Great video!
I was wondering if you could help me my girl friend put bleach in to my gas tank and I drove it for a few blocks until it staled out on me. It is a 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 it only has 56000 miles on it. So I thought it ran out of gas or a fuse went it was cranking hard but wouldn't kick over so I left it their tried it a couple days later and it sounded like the starter was bad actually jammed it was loud like coming noise coming from the starter. So got a new one the she finally told me what she done. I took off the belt took out the plugs filled them with oil trying to turn with a big straight bar from the bottom pully and it won't turn do you got any more suggestions and do you no if bleach would size the engine. I greatly appreciate any advice you may have
You have to unbolt the drive plate from the transmission's torque converter to replace it, and you need to be able to turn the crankshaft in order to do that. 5:40
This looks like a 2.4l 2azfe engine thats the same as in a bunch of other 4 banger toyotas. I have one in my 07 camry with a bearing going out and you can only reach 1 connecting rod without removing the crank case. I'm thinking it's almost identical to this video here, so im going to tear into it. I had tons of flakes from bearing material in the oil pan with a nasty knock after I did the head gasket. Too bad its a manual transmission so I wont have any wiggle room for the crank bearings. Thanks for showing this video it's the only one I've found i wasn't sure it could even be done without pulling the engine and trans.
Post job update: the biggest hang up was getting the crankcase (upper oil pan) out. The bolts were easy to reach but I recommend removing a section of exhaust because the crankcase itself is very hard to maneuver into place. Overall, lots of gasket material has to be cleaned off, the engine must be retimed, and since it's a manual transmission, the top bearings had to be spun out with a screw in the crankshaft oil port. If I was a shop I would charge probably 2 grand for it because it's tons of tedious labour. Definitely better than pulling the engine with the manual trans though. If you have any questions respond here I might read it.
3:34 for the best shop conversation, you're welcome.
It would've lasted forever it's Toyota you just gotta put a quart of oil in it every 100 miles
not a joke my camry literally burns about a quart every 100 miles and that is if im lucky and it's full of fresh oil with stp treatment added
@@guygaric940 Check your pcv valve. How many miles are on the car? Mine used to burn that much until the dude at autozone performed surgery on mine. Took the pcv valve and cleaned it out with break cleaner and rust penetrate. Also, check the hose for cracks where it connects to the pcv valve. if it's cracked, the vacuum pressure might be too low from the cracks and may not be opening the valve to let the blowby gases through. If I were you though, I'd replace the pcv hose + valve.
Great video, seriously wanked engine. Love the bit about the morning shit, what a classic!
Thank you and Happy New Year to you.
75 people have a fiancee they can't take a shit in front of.
I love the convo lmao
Awesomeness
Why tear the bottom end out of the engine in the car if the whole things coming out anyway? The gaping hole in the upper oil pan should have been clue enough the engine was toast.
From the video description: "I had to replace this engine, but first I needed to get it turning again so I could unbolt the torque converter."
It’s in the description, dumbass
telling us that you don't know anything about engine without telling us that you don't know anything about engine.
Left the dealership yesterday, they didn’t tighten the filter or the bolt was lost....drove 10 minutes before it started smoking.
you didn't notice the HUGE GAPING CRACK in the upper part of the oil pan??!!??
TheCoatneyadkins They are trying to get it to spin so they can undo the torque converter bolts otherwise you cant separate the engine and trans.
Love the causal talk why’ll the world being done. lol
That's what just made me subscribe
Toyota Camry 90's model ran out of oil and now it's not known whether oil pump got damage or what?
The oil pump definitely takes near the least amount of damage of critical engine parts when there is a loss of oil pressure. If the engine still runs quiet with oil back in it, you can assume the pump to be fine. Certainly any obvious rhythmic knocking or tapping, or erratic squeaking noises (see my Galant video for example of that) means the engine is damaged. What damages pumps is pumping metal particles being produced by a damaged engine. If it ran without oil enough to get damaged and produce metal debris, putting oil back puts some of that debris through the oil pump and causes abnormal wear that can lead to low oil pressure as it wears out prematurely..
Toyota last for ever but you not wen there is no oil
What kind of engine did you put back in? salvage, rebuilt, factory stock...etc..???
Yea, that marriage won't last..
thanks for sharing, is an overhaul (taking to a shop to rebuild), the only way to go, here? or is there a way to change parts like, bearings piston, i have a 32 valve, that suffered a similar situation, i found it new and used, but i want to know other options, or does it have to be machined anyways??
have a great day.
The damage in this case is very severe, and would cost many times more than a used engine to repair the existing engine. This engine would need a new crank, 2 new con rods, rings, bearings, cylinders rebored to larger diameter (due to cylinder wall galling) and a set of OD pistons to fix. I didn't even look at possible damage to the head, but it's very likely there is damage up there too. To summarize, this would only be worth repairing if the engine was some kind of exotic one that could not be obtained used AND was going in a valuable car.
Thanks a lot, for the great info, i will go for a used one, i plan on changing the timing chain guide and tensioner before. Do you have any input on oil pump and screen?.thanks again
If the used engine is ok in general, I'd leave the existing oil pump in it. I've never changed the oil pump as part of a used engine install and never had a problem, but I'm talking about customer cars that will see average use. Something to keep in mind is that a new part has no history of doing it's job properly but a used good part is known to be fine. For instance, I'm aware of problems with a certain application of aftermarket VW oil pump where the pump works fine initially but is guaranteed to quickly fail prematurely.
If you have the pan off and can look at the screen, that will give you some idea of what the oil pump has been ingesting. If the screen/pickup tube can be completely cleaned, it's fine to re-use. They can get obstructed/clogged, but don't mechanically wear out.
Thanks for responding. I appreciate it.
please watch my car in channel and has run over oil problem and can it be started again without any financial loss..🤔
+Fopeano Was looking for vids to watch and recognized your name. Always searching for channels with good content on Y-Tube. Having hero's who always know more than you is why i'm seldom on ETCG forums anymore. Too many hero's there too.
You need to supply some new vids and i'll certainly subscribe.
most shops anymore,are men crying about women. no more men talk anymore
Did he break a part that did not need to be broken for leverage?
I broke the upper oil pan when I was prying around on it. Kind of on purpose because it was all going to scrap anyway, and I could play around with it a little. If that was going back together, I wouldn't have broken or abused anything.
Fopeano how long did they say it ran without oil. And i realised that after i wrote the comment.
Nobody ever told me that. All I really know is that it came in seized with no drain plug installed, and the guy had done his own oil change. I don't even know why it came to our shop in particular.
Fopeano lol well i guess they forgot you gotta put the oil back in. Just subscribed
I ❤❤ that.
Found you from chris fix just now... ;-)
doing some youtube drive bys and you know how youtube recommends vids..
can you tell me the backstory on this car? did the owner just let the oil run out or did an accident happen they were unaware of that caused this? did insurance cover the cost or the owner directly?
and... did the fiance' finally get to drop the kids off at the pool in front of the misses? ;-)
+Marc Abernathy - The Customer had the drain plug fall out and then drove it until it stopped. I Can't remember the specifics of why it ended up in our shop, but it was the customer who did their own oil change and didn't tighten it. As for the Fiance', he knocked her and they shipped off to Florida shortly after this video to get hitched and make babies in the sun.
hahaha... thanks for the follow up sir!
Fopeano why did the drain plug fall out? It wasn't because it was tight but it magically losened up, right?
I'm not sure, I was told that the customer did their own oil change and then it fell out. It was missing when the car got towed in.
Can we change connecting rod and main bearing like this from down if engine is no ceased and crankshaft is ok ??
Yes, it's in a perfect position to do that. If it's automatic, the torque converter will even allow the crankshaft to be tilted down so you don't have to sheak the upper mains around such a tight spot. I will also say that I would have preferred to be able to replace all the bearings in this particular car. It was about 20 hours to replace the engine, excessive for a 4 cylinder economy car. bearings would have been a quicker job.
Fopeano thank you so much, crankcase will not leak if i use Silicon to seal it ??
Always use grey RTV. Mopar # 82300234AC is the best available if you have a garbaDodge dealer around, can get it on Amazon too.
Fopeano Do i need to remove crankshaft pulley or just have to remove timing cover lower 4 bolts
If you unbolt all the main caps at once, the crank is going to sag down against the front seal unless the timing chain is still holding it up. as far as clearance, I can't remember if the bottom of the timing cover is in the way of the #1 main bearing cap.
hello thanks for showing this video, i have the same problem but that upper oil pan doesnt separate from the crank case,can you please tell me how many bolts did you pull? maybe there is more that i dont see.... thankyou so much
Was a long time ago, but I remember the bitch bolt in there was accessible only after removing the tube that the oil filter threaded onto. Around 1:20 you can see I undo something there with a 17mm or 19mm socket and then take out the bolt with a 14mm.
Haha ! Can't take a shit
3:34 Thank god I've never lived that
i don't want a dog i can't take a shit in front of
I have a 2000 expedition xlt. The drain plug came out somehow ans the motor is locked now. Is getting another motor or having the 1 I have rebuilt the only option?
This kind of thing causes widespread severe damage. It may be possible to rebuild, but likely at a astronomical cost. What will happen is you have a junkyard engine put in it. They like to call them "Used Salvage" or "OEM Recycled" parts nowadays, but make no mistake that they are junkyard parts. I'm not saying not to put a used engine in, just that it is a used engine that has been sitting for any amount of time.
That just means that there will be parts and labor required to make the used engine suitable to be installed into a roadworthy vehicle. Every junkyard engine and transmission I install always needs at least a hour of work and $100 in gaskets, seals, filters, cooler flush, fluids, etc.
Good luck dealing with your Expedition, but it may be time to let it go if it's spent it's life in a winter/salt climate like I work in.
try filling it up with oil and pushing it in gear
see if it fixes it
or push it on a hill
GOOD IDEA MANN
I have an older Camry with a bad engine. Would I be better to buy a low mileage salvage car and pull the engine, a junk yard engine w/100k miles or a Japan Direct Motor (JDM)? Great video!
Change oil to prevent it
nevermind, I'm an idiot it's made that way lol
A fiance you can't take a shit in front of, or a fiance you can't take a shit on top of?
I was wondering if you could help me my girl friend put bleach in to my gas tank and I drove it for a few blocks until it staled out on me. It is a 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 it only has 56000 miles on it. So I thought it ran out of gas or a fuse went it was cranking hard but wouldn't kick over so I left it their tried it a couple days later and it sounded like the starter was bad actually jammed it was loud like coming noise coming from the starter. So got a new one the she finally told me what she done. I took off the belt took out the plugs filled them with oil trying to turn with a big straight bar from the bottom pully and it won't turn do you got any more suggestions and do you no if bleach would size the engine. I greatly appreciate any advice you may have
Isn't she a bitch?
I didn't watch enough before I commented lol sorry
No worries, man
No
Useless.
!
using foul language doesn't make you a Dude it proves that you aint one
and why even bother doing all this. at this point isnt better just get another engine ?
You have to unbolt the drive plate from the transmission's torque converter to replace it, and you need to be able to turn the crankshaft in order to do that. 5:40
@@Fopeano true ..
Thanks for the info !
Horrible mechanic, I'll never let a mechanical guy touch my car.
If I'm the horrible mechanic, what about the guy that grenaded this engine?