i love repair videos, and yours are top notch. Never give up ! why spend 5 bucks on a new POS when one can easily apply one's brains and fix the POS one already has. You're an inspiration, chief. I think of you every time I "time" a screw into its wooden hole to respect the existing thread, thanks to one of your earlier videos... Keep on trucking (from France)
Great job, Ron. Thanks for sharing. Just got one of these guns from a friend. Its blowing slightly warm air, so may have the main coil burnt out. I like seeing people disassemble these things so I can get a much better idea of how to do it myself while avoiding some mistakes that I probably would make otherwise! Good idea about using the bolt. that nichrome wire gets too hot for solder.. plus, it wouldn't take it anyway! All the best!
My heat gun is a little different. If I'm correct in the term, it has a DPDT switch with off in the middle. I flip the switch down for heat and control the heat by adjusting a damper, like yours, on the intake. When I turn it off, I flip the switch up, going past off and then it just blows air. I do that to cool it down before putting it in the drawer. It has been a nice heat gun for many years and made of some type of light cast metal.
I have my heatgun about 15 years now. I use it from time to time. Not very frequently but it's a very handy little thing. Last time I used it was a few days ago. I had to remodel a plastic box which had been deformed when something heavy slid down on it and stayed there. I finished my work for about 80% (which meant that I turned the HG on for a few (5 or 6) times, between 20 and 60 seconds per time. In between I formed the plastic box to make it have the form it should have. And then just before the finishing touch it didn't work anymore. I switched it on like usual and nothing happened. I could not believe it would be overheated (it was used to be "abused" when removing painted for 5 minutes or more in one "strike". I watched this video and now I'm starting to doubt if the problem is in the heating coil(s) or in the switch itself. The switch has three positions, OFF, ON1 and ON2. The difference between ON1 and ON2 is the temperature. In both cases something like a fan is switched on automatically (at least I think it is a fan because it's making a sound like that, I suppose coils that are getting hot do not produce any sound. Now when I switch it on, "nothing" happens, no heat, no fan, no nothing. Switch failure or.... ?
If you are comfortable working with electric, you can open it up and see if you can find the cause of it quitting suddenly. Low/high temperature is usually obtained by using one or two heat coils and fan/blower speed is determined by how many heating coils are being used. The blower motor is often a simple 12 VDC motor and the heating elements are used to drop the voltage along with some diodes to convert AC current to DC for the motor. The switch can go bad or there could be a broken connection somewhere. Also, some heating appliance have a thermal switch in case things get too hot. Using the gun for a while, then sitting it down hot, can cause the thermal switch to go open circuit and some are failsafe and do not reset. A heat gun gets quite hot, then cold, with many cycles in its life. These hot/cold cycles can lead to a heating element failure especially at a joint or connection. Dropping a heat gun can cause an element to break. Hope that helps.
This type of switch is strongly recommended to connect it to the ground (with 12mm ring terminal) or add insulation on the handle. Typically, This type of switch is mounted to a metal panel which connected to ground. Inside this switch there is an insulator which the switch's operating principle abrading, and at one point the knob will touch the contacts.
My motor speed is suddenly out of control like a jet engine. I shut it off immediately. Your video is making me think the heating element may be the cause - letting the motor run crazy by not getting enough resistance through the element. Thanks for the video.
I'm a piainter with alcohol inks, and i bought a hand heat gut a couple of days ago, Te air is too hot ant wraps my acrilyc. I was wondering if there is a way to stop it from actually heating (just air)? My fear is that without the resistance heating the motor might just overcharge. Thanks in advance!
A heat gun can be pretty extreme. The heating elements in a hot air gun or in a hair dryer are used as the "dropping resistors" for controlling the motor speed. These little motors are probably rated 9-24VDC (volts DC) but I have always found that they work very well on a 12 volt battery. I do not know where you live. A hair dryer here in the USA runs on 120 volts AC. In Europe that would be 240 volts AC. The heating elements are wired in series with the DC motor to drop the voltage from 120VAC to somewhere around 12VAC (in Europe that would be from 240VAC to around 12VAC) and then there are usually four diodes at the motor terminals which form what is called a bridge rectifier. A bridge rectifier converts 12VAC into 12VDC for the motor. There are a few videos on TH-cam which show how a hair dryer works and probably show how to take one apart. If you are mechanically inclined you could carefully take a hair dryer apart being careful with the motor and fan blade. A hair dryer is fairly inexpensive or better still if you still have an old one that quit you could use that. Remove the switches, heating elements, diodes and heat shielding until all you have left is the motor, fan blade (still on the motor) and the hair dryer housing. Solder two wires to the motor terminals. You could install a simple ON/OFF toggle switch. You could experiment with a small variable resistor (pot) to allow you to vary the motor speed. This would give you a controllable unheated fan for drying your paints I usually run such a thing directly from a 12 volt battery but you may be able to run it from a suitable 12V DC wall power supply... probably rated at least 2 amps. If this is not something you feel comfortable doing, perhaps you have a friend who would be able to do it for you. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel going. Ron
Mica - a shiny silicate mineral with a layered structure, found as minute scales in granite and other rocks, or as crystals. It is used as a thermal or electrical insulator. In its natural state it can be separated in layers.
Any idea where I could get a replacement fan for a heat gun. Mine melted and twisted off. The motor works fine but the can't use it with out the plastic fan. I hate that there aren't replacement parts or that they charge more than buying a new heat gun costs. My gun is a Drill Master.
A lot of these motors are just 12VDC and the heating coils are used to drop the voltage. The fans in hair dryers are very similar. Getting a hair dryer blower assembly to fit inside your particular hot air gun will be a trick. Whenever a hair dryer dies it is usually because the heating element has failed. I try to save a few and have made different gadgets out of them and they run perfect off a 12V car battery. If you have a 3D printer (or access to one) you can look around on Thingiverse.com. Getting the new impeller to stay on the motor shaft may be trial and error. www.thingiverse.com/thing:209797 Impellers for hair dryer www.thingiverse.com/thing:3500509 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2486024 Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That's what keeps this channel going! Ron
Mine has a push button switch. On/cool/off. Not any better then the slider switch. As far as why they broke..... They are disposable. It's great if you get a long use life but that's down to luck. They are not built to last.
Good repair. I loaned out my HF plastic welder to a friend in need. No longer worked after that. I took it apart... Where can I buy the coiled nichrome wire to replace the element ? ...It fell out in pieces. lol Tnx rc
..Aha ! Thanks, Glychee S, I had not considered that option... 4 coils in a consecutive series will be difficult to handle, but I should be able to do it, if I give it some thought in advance..Thanks again ! rc
I've purchased my nichrome wire off ebay for a foam cutter, it's not very stiff at small gauges so i'd check the original gauge of your wire, knotting the wire together should be a sufficient connection I would think.(will increase resistance slightly?) I want to build my own mini-heat gun some day, but i have no idea what (cheap) material to use for the core to hold the windings.
..You may discover, as I have, certain things such as heat guns are frequently cheaper to buy than the sum of their components. The little plastic welder created more heat, yet required constant air flow from a source, which my friend neglected. All I got was cinders and pieces inside the casing. Nothing left to tie ! Best rc
My heat gun is spitting out thousands on little shiny bits. Any ideas what the problem could be? I looked it up but I couldn't find anything. My heat gun is the Black & Decker Model 9751.
Small flat shiny pieces... look somewhat like glitter? I would guess it is the mica board that holds the heat element is deteriorating. Do you handle it roughly, throw it in a drawer, bump it into things? That may be a contributing factor.
+Ronald Walters Yeah. It's like glitter. I don't handle it roughly. Actually, I barely use it at all. It just started doing that one day when I was using it.
Mica is a natural mineral which can be split into thin layers. It is used to support the heating element because it is light and a good insulator. Sounds like yours is flaking off small bits from an outer layer. Hopefully after it has discharged those few pieces it will stabilize. You could complain to B&D but it probably wouldn't do an good.
+Ronald Walters I opened it up and it turns out that was the problem. It completely deteriorated! There's nothing left of it except a few specks. It's very strange. Luckily, I have a second heat gun.
Nope, still going strong. Used it for 15 minutes today. That's why I did not let it run too long without the ducted air blowing across the elements. Thanks for watching.
A new one may smell hot... but there really shouldn't be any visible smoke. It is very hot when you turn it off. You need to be careful of what you lay it on before it cools.
No fuse. The fuse in your electrical panel protects against a direct short or better still if you are plugged into a GFI protection outlet... which protects you.
Slight water damage to a heat gun... sounds like a failed attempt at electrocution. :-) Never tried to fix any. It gets way too hot in there for any glue I know about. I recently took apart a hair dryer and they used what appeared to be a type of heat resistant fiberglass instead of mica. A section of something like that could be used with tiny bolts to support what is broken. Now all you need is a broken hair dryer and the patience to experiment... with no guarantee of success.
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i love repair videos, and yours are top notch. Never give up ! why spend 5 bucks on a new POS when one can easily apply one's brains and fix the POS one already has. You're an inspiration, chief. I think of you every time I "time" a screw into its wooden hole to respect the existing thread, thanks to one of your earlier videos...
Keep on trucking (from France)
Nice fix. Did that on a dryer heating element a few years ago and it still works. Wish you and your family all the best in 2016.
No fear to make any repair. Love the video Ron, great job.
Great job, Ron. Thanks for sharing. Just got one of these guns from a friend. Its blowing slightly warm air, so may have the main coil burnt out. I like seeing people disassemble these things so I can get a much better idea of how to do it myself while avoiding some mistakes that I probably would make otherwise! Good idea about using the bolt. that nichrome wire gets too hot for solder.. plus, it wouldn't take it anyway! All the best!
Nice vid, Ron! Happy New Year to you and your family.
My heat gun is a little different. If I'm correct in the term, it has a DPDT switch with off in the middle. I flip the switch down for heat and control the heat by adjusting a damper, like yours, on the intake. When I turn it off, I flip the switch up, going past off and then it just blows air. I do that to cool it down before putting it in the drawer. It has been a nice heat gun for many years and made of some type of light cast metal.
Great fix man , Thumbs up !!
I have my heatgun about 15 years now. I use it from time to time. Not very frequently but it's a very handy little thing. Last time I used it was a few days ago.
I had to remodel a plastic box which had been deformed when something heavy slid down on it and stayed there.
I finished my work for about 80% (which meant that I turned the HG on for a few (5 or 6) times, between 20 and 60 seconds per time. In between I formed the plastic box
to make it have the form it should have. And then just before the finishing touch it didn't work anymore. I switched it on like usual and nothing happened.
I could not believe it would be overheated (it was used to be "abused" when removing painted for 5 minutes or more in one "strike".
I watched this video and now I'm starting to doubt if the problem is in the heating coil(s) or in the switch itself.
The switch has three positions, OFF, ON1 and ON2. The difference between ON1 and ON2 is the temperature. In both cases something like a fan
is switched on automatically (at least I think it is a fan because it's making a sound like that, I suppose coils that are getting hot do not produce any sound.
Now when I switch it on, "nothing" happens, no heat, no fan, no nothing.
Switch failure or.... ?
If you are comfortable working with electric, you can open it up and see if you can find the cause of it quitting suddenly. Low/high temperature is usually obtained by using one or two heat coils and fan/blower speed is determined by how many heating coils are being used. The blower motor is often a simple 12 VDC motor and the heating elements are used to drop the voltage along with some diodes to convert AC current to DC for the motor. The switch can go bad or there could be a broken connection somewhere. Also, some heating appliance have a thermal switch in case things get too hot. Using the gun for a while, then sitting it down hot, can cause the thermal switch to go open circuit and some are failsafe and do not reset. A heat gun gets quite hot, then cold, with many cycles in its life. These hot/cold cycles can lead to a heating element failure especially at a joint or connection. Dropping a heat gun can cause an element to break. Hope that helps.
Ron… your a bad ass. That’s all I know
This type of switch is strongly recommended to connect it to the ground (with 12mm ring terminal) or add insulation on the handle.
Typically, This type of switch is mounted to a metal panel which connected to ground.
Inside this switch there is an insulator which the switch's operating principle abrading, and at one point the knob will touch the contacts.
that's a nice green tarp there.
My motor speed is suddenly out of control like a jet engine. I shut it off immediately.
Your video is making me think the heating element may be the cause - letting the motor run crazy by not getting enough resistance through the element. Thanks for the video.
I'm a piainter with alcohol inks, and i bought a hand heat gut a couple of days ago, Te air is too hot ant wraps my acrilyc.
I was wondering if there is a way to stop it from actually heating (just air)?
My fear is that without the resistance heating the motor might just overcharge.
Thanks in advance!
A heat gun can be pretty extreme.
The heating elements in a hot air gun or in a hair dryer are used as the "dropping resistors" for controlling the motor speed. These little motors are probably rated 9-24VDC (volts DC) but I have always found that they work very well on a 12 volt battery.
I do not know where you live. A hair dryer here in the USA runs on 120 volts AC. In Europe that would be 240 volts AC. The heating elements are wired in series with the DC motor to drop the voltage from 120VAC to somewhere around 12VAC (in Europe that would be from 240VAC to around 12VAC) and then there are usually four diodes at the motor terminals which form what is called a bridge rectifier. A bridge rectifier converts 12VAC into 12VDC for the motor.
There are a few videos on TH-cam which show how a hair dryer works and probably show how to take one apart.
If you are mechanically inclined you could carefully take a hair dryer apart being careful with the motor and fan blade.
A hair dryer is fairly inexpensive or better still if you still have an old one that quit you could use that.
Remove the switches, heating elements, diodes and heat shielding until all you have left is the motor, fan blade (still on the motor) and the hair dryer housing. Solder two wires to the motor terminals. You could install a simple ON/OFF toggle switch. You could experiment with a small variable resistor (pot) to allow you to vary the motor speed.
This would give you a controllable unheated fan for drying your paints
I usually run such a thing directly from a 12 volt battery but you may be able to run it from a suitable 12V DC wall power supply... probably rated at least 2 amps.
If this is not something you feel comfortable doing, perhaps you have a friend who would be able to do it for you.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
Wt's the material that the heating element is wrapped around?
Mica - a shiny silicate mineral with a layered structure, found as minute scales in granite and other rocks, or as crystals. It is used as a thermal or electrical insulator. In its natural state it can be separated in layers.
Any idea where I could get a replacement fan for a heat gun. Mine melted and twisted off. The motor works fine but the can't use it with out the plastic fan. I hate that there aren't replacement parts or that they charge more than buying a new heat gun costs. My gun is a Drill Master.
A lot of these motors are just 12VDC and the heating coils are used to drop the voltage. The fans in hair dryers are very similar. Getting a hair dryer blower assembly to fit inside your particular hot air gun will be a trick. Whenever a hair dryer dies it is usually because the heating element has failed. I try to save a few and have made different gadgets out of them and they run perfect off a 12V car battery.
If you have a 3D printer (or access to one) you can look around on Thingiverse.com. Getting the new impeller to stay on the motor shaft may be trial and error.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:209797
Impellers for hair dryer
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3500509
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2486024
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe.
That's what keeps this channel going!
Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 Thanks, unfortunately I don't have access to a 3D printer but I'll keep looking into it.
Mine has a push button switch. On/cool/off. Not any better then the slider switch.
As far as why they broke..... They are disposable. It's great if you get a long use life but that's down to luck. They are not built to last.
Good repair. I loaned out my HF plastic welder to a friend in need.
No longer worked after that. I took it apart...
Where can I buy the coiled nichrome wire to replace the element ?
...It fell out in pieces. lol
Tnx rc
+Rusty Case you can buy nichrome wire and then coil it yourself using a hand drill and a long thin steel rod, watch out for your fingers.
..Aha ! Thanks, Glychee S, I had not considered that option... 4 coils in a consecutive series will be difficult to handle, but I should be able to do it, if I give it some thought in advance..Thanks again ! rc
I've purchased my nichrome wire off ebay for a foam cutter, it's not very stiff at small gauges so i'd check the original gauge of your wire, knotting the wire together should be a sufficient connection I would think.(will increase resistance slightly?) I want to build my own mini-heat gun some day, but i have no idea what (cheap) material to use for the core to hold the windings.
..You may discover, as I have, certain things such as heat guns are frequently cheaper to buy than the sum of their components. The little plastic welder created more heat, yet required constant air flow from a source, which my friend neglected. All I got was cinders and pieces inside the casing. Nothing left to tie !
Best rc
My heat gun is spitting out thousands on little shiny bits. Any ideas what the problem could be? I looked it up but I couldn't find anything. My heat gun is the Black & Decker Model 9751.
Small flat shiny pieces... look somewhat like glitter? I would guess it is the mica board that holds the heat element is deteriorating. Do you handle it roughly, throw it in a drawer, bump it into things? That may be a contributing factor.
+Ronald Walters Yeah. It's like glitter. I don't handle it roughly. Actually, I barely use it at all. It just started doing that one day when I was using it.
Mica is a natural mineral which can be split into thin layers. It is used to support the heating element because it is light and a good insulator. Sounds like yours is flaking off small bits from an outer layer. Hopefully after it has discharged those few pieces it will stabilize. You could complain to B&D but it probably wouldn't do an good.
+Ronald Walters I opened it up and it turns out that was the problem. It completely deteriorated! There's nothing left of it except a few specks. It's very strange. Luckily, I have a second heat gun.
i think the heating coil burned, melted, by now - the imbalanced heating is obvious. almost white hot
Nope, still going strong. Used it for 15 minutes today. That's why I did not let it run too long without the ducted air blowing across the elements. Thanks for watching.
is hot air gun a weapon?
If an air gun get smoke after using. Is that air gun broken or is it normal?
Should not smoke. It may smell for a while if it is brand new or if some hair gets sucked into the air intake.
Ronald Walters oh i see. Its brand new so its have smoke. Maybe overtime it will vanish. Oke thank you so much for the reply.
A new one may smell hot... but there really shouldn't be any visible smoke. It is very hot when you turn it off. You need to be careful of what you lay it on before it cools.
Ronald Walters so its smoke, does it means its not safe to use. Will it blow up? Because i consider to return the stuff.
If you think it is smoke every time, return it. Possibly try a different brand.
No need to put a fuse in it?
No fuse. The fuse in your electrical panel protects against a direct short or better still if you are plugged into a GFI protection outlet... which protects you.
part of the Mica board on my heat gun is broken due to slight water damage at the tip. Any solutions for fixing it?
Slight water damage to a heat gun... sounds like a failed attempt at electrocution. :-) Never tried to fix any. It gets way too hot in there for any glue I know about. I recently took apart a hair dryer and they used what appeared to be a type of heat resistant fiberglass instead of mica. A section of something like that could be used with tiny bolts to support what is broken. Now all you need is a broken hair dryer and the patience to experiment... with no guarantee of success.
Might as well buy a new heat gun
Ok
Its look like my hair dryer.
Difference is, this thing's a hair fryer.
These things fail because nobody lets them cool properly
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