Tips for anyone watching!!! removing is pretty simple... in short strip everything away as shown in the footage & other videos "that includes the small brackets on-top of the transmission& brackets around the crush structure's "leading edge of the 2 large bars coming off the firewall!" & off the top of the gearbox! you'll also find it best to remove the piping from the clutch slave cylinder & pipe, blocking off the hydraulic line as you go "its easy to pinch the line otherwise" OR it'll also be handy to remove the oil filter housing for more room & you'll probably find the gaskets have passed their sell-by date (I'd replaced them shy of 2yrs ago) also note! the gearbox is heavy to handle, the weight is mostly towards the back of the transmission/gearbox etc using a jack to remove the transmission would be awkward (below the trans) you can manhandle it out but it can be a sod to remove... you'd be best to use a hoist or crane to take the weight. anyway getting it back in nice tips use a small block of wood below the engine & make sure there isn't a edge/ledge protruding from the engine out towards the gearbox as it'll prevent the trans from mating up! also again use a hoist OR crane to hold the trans so you can refit it back to the engine block! also make sure you support the transmission, not just at the lifting eye (located at the top of the transmission) there's also a point just above/to the side of the LSD area of the trans, use that point aswell to keep the transmission level (side to side) Dropping the engine (gearbox side down slightly 1-2inches also helps.... if you do this the trans should easily slip into position (I had a little fight for about 10minutes as it wouldn't line up, I then did the above & within seconds the trans was mounted up & bolt were going in "literally within seconds" don't try to manhandle it into position.. the transmission is heavy & there's NO space for a couple of ppl to work the trans into position
Tips for anyone watching!!!
removing is pretty simple... in short strip everything away as shown in the footage & other videos "that includes the small brackets on-top of the transmission& brackets around the crush structure's "leading edge of the 2 large bars coming off the firewall!" & off the top of the gearbox!
you'll also find it best to remove the piping from the clutch slave cylinder & pipe, blocking off the hydraulic line as you go "its easy to pinch the line otherwise"
OR it'll also be handy to remove the oil filter housing for more room & you'll probably find the gaskets have passed their sell-by date (I'd replaced them shy of 2yrs ago)
also note! the gearbox is heavy to handle, the weight is mostly towards the back of the transmission/gearbox etc using a jack to remove the transmission would be awkward (below the trans) you can manhandle it out but it can be a sod to remove... you'd be best to use a hoist or crane to take the weight.
anyway getting it back in nice tips
use a small block of wood below the engine & make sure there isn't a edge/ledge protruding from the engine out towards the gearbox as it'll prevent the trans from mating up!
also again use a hoist OR crane to hold the trans so you can refit it back to the engine block! also make sure you support the transmission, not just at the lifting eye (located at the top of the transmission) there's also a point just above/to the side of the LSD area of the trans, use that point aswell to keep the transmission level (side to side)
Dropping the engine (gearbox side down slightly 1-2inches also helps.... if you do this the trans should easily slip into position (I had a little fight for about 10minutes as it wouldn't line up, I then did the above & within seconds the trans was mounted up & bolt were going in "literally within seconds"
don't try to manhandle it into position.. the transmission is heavy & there's NO space for a couple of ppl to work the trans into position
Thank you for sharing!