Hi I have a off topic question, I have new Simonis 860 cloth on my table, if I use the round paper reinforcements to mark ball positions and tan packing tape to mark a target for ball position play will that hurt the cloth? thanks
Watching your videos here and there for years now. I just want to appreciate your efforts. I really love the presentation style. No stupid music in the background, no stupid jumpcuts, no influcencer-blabla wrapping around the actual topic, straight to the point with enough detailed/scientific information. And all in all, it radiates a calmness that is also required for billiards and with a gentle touch of old school on top (For instance the jingle sound). Keep everything as it is. I love it!
I switched from a 12.7 to 11.8 carbon fiber and the 11.8 isn't working out for me. At all. Went to a dealer tried a bunch of shafts and I went with a mcdermott defy 12.5. It felt right for me. Selling my 11.8 Jacoby shaft with kanui clear black for 300 👀👀👀. 5/16 x 18
Thanks for another great video, Dr. Dave! When I changed from wood to carbon fiber, my maximum draw took a dramatic hit, which was very frustrating. I assumed it was because of the material, but the change in diameter (from < 12.0 mm to 12.9 mm) may have contributed a lot. As always, very informative. Thank you for your dedication to this beautiful game!
I've always considered tip shape to have lesser impact vs shaft diameter. I do like a more rounded "edge" but not extreme (from Nickel). The smaller in diameter ya go, the more precise ya gotta be, or more like less effort (exaggerated result) = less forgiving. Absolutely enjoyable! Be Safe
Great video Dave! This helps explain a problem I had with randomly switching cues. I shoot what I called tips but I really only have the numbers zero to three. And three is only rarely used on longer low stun shots or close shots that are shot slowly with a lot of spin. 2 is where I live for most draws and force follows. But most of my game is between zero and one. Now I understand why trying cues with different shaft thicknesses was difficult for me. I was always able to do fine as long as I didn't get very far out of center.
Really great video of a topic full of myths (I think) because it’s so subtle and it’s mostly trial and error. Thank you for sharing! I wish I had watched this prior to moving from a 12.9mm shaft with nickel radius to a 12.2mm shaft with a dime radius, one of the things that took me the longest to adjust to was the change in tip offset from center to get the same amount of spin. It would have been good to know this going in, instead of going through all the frustrations of recalibrating without knowing the root cause of the issue! (I actually use a 14mm Mike Gulyassy ‘Frankenstein Shaft’ now with a quarter radius and I love the stiff hit and am still able to spin the cue ball as much as with any other cue I’ve played with and the thicker shaft feels better in my bridge and I much prefer the stiffer hit than the tiny diameter shafts that are gaining popularity. Goes to show the myth of ‘smaller shaft, rounder tip = more spin’ ain’t really true. I heard Earl Strickland was (before signing with JFlowers) using the 15mm version of the ‘Frankenstein Shaft’ and was still playing at a high-level-it’s the shaft he used at his latest Mosconi Cup appearance.)
Dr. Dave, my question that I’ve not seen addressed on your videos is in the difference between a left-handed player and a right handed player or ambidextrous players
Obviously, being ambidextrous is an asset; otherwise, there will be shots you won't be able to reach without an extension or bridge (whether you are right or left handed). Regardless of which hand you play with, the location of your personal vision center (especially if the cue needs to be on the body side of the nose) can make it difficult to find a comfortable stance with no neck tension, but this applies to any player. For more info, see: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/eyes/vision-center/ billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stance/
Thank you for the advice I do think it would make an interesting video for those that might have the same question that I asked simply because of those traits… Just a suggestion. I am a really big fan and I have summer league coming up but prior to that I have watched your videos quite often And they have been very educational to the point that my game has improved immensely in so much that I am virtually 100 Fargo points ahead of other players in my division, whereas most of them are ranked in the division, whereas I am not, other than rank
0:43 There are cue tips and tools available that don't wear down your tip. The caveat is that the longer you use the tip the harder it becomes from impacting the cue ball. I use Kamui Black SS and their Drangons Tongue tool. Edit: Nickle round on a 12.5mm shaft.
I use a Cuetec Cynergy 12.5mm shaft but tapered the ferrel so the tip is actually 12mm. At first it was an unintentional consequence of not chalking properly but then i had it professionally done when i had the tip changed
Awesome video, Dr. Thanks as well to Pat. I used to believe a dime made a huge difference in spin. Now, I know better. I’m interested in your thoughts on TipPik vs scuffing for holding chalk, and other tip maintenance ideas, if you ever get a chance.
I have a question about the diagram shown at 1:15 about the difference in the height at which shafts with different diameters can contact the cueball. I get how this works in theory, but I'm wondering if the fact that in real life the cue can't be that low to the table while still being parallel to the table means that the actual difference in lowest possible contact point, in practice, could be more or less severe than what's pictured. Like, I'd want to know the median bridge height, measuring from the table to the top of the highest point of the bridge hand. And then I'd want to know, assuming the longest possible realistic bridge length in order to have the cue be as parallel to the table as possible, what the median angle between cue and table is. And then I'd like to see what this diagram would look like at with the cues at that angle. The cues might also have to be moved out and up. Maybe this is just basic geometry I'm forgetting but I can't figure out if moving the cues back the same distance, up the same height, and tilting them at the same angle would change the delta between tip contact points. In other words, it'd be interesting to know if, once you account for the average angle the cue is coming down, if tip diameter becomes more or less important for backspin than it appears in the diagram (which is, IMO, already a significant amount).
@@thestever See the info and illustrations here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/elevation/ Cue elevation does not change the points made in the video.
I don't play snooker, so I'm probably not the best person to ask. Although, the general principles here apply to all cue sizes and tip shapes: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/size-and-shape/
3:56 flatter tips impart less unintentional spin. This allows you to send the cueball with more force while sacrificing accuracy as the unintentional spin imparted from the decrease in accuracy will be mitigated by the flatter tip.
There is a a soccer/football boot that has been popular since the late '90's - the Adidas Predator. It utilises rubber ridges along the instep which improves the amount of curve that the footballer gets from a kick. Does a layered tip have a similar effect - increasing spin - in comparison to a standard tip?
I switched to a BK Rush awhile back and immediately was having issues with getting way too much spin on the cue ball if I didn't hit perfectly center vs my old break cue. I'm assuming it's mainly due to the rounder tip and smaller diameter size... is it common for people to purposely shape their break cue tip more flat to help prevent the unintentional spin?
Hello Dave and thanks for the video! Which shape do you recommand for english pool ? Mine is about 8,75mm and i use last 4 ever tool (dime shape) do you think it is ok? or should I make it more round? Have a good day !
Dr.Dave I just got a break cue and it’s hard tip and is it okay for me to use a scuff and ruff it up. It seems chalk doesn’t apply all on the tip and doesn’t stay. I need help Dr.Dave
Hard thread cue tips (especially phenolic) don’t hold chalk as well, especially some of the new “premium” chalks. I use Master chalk on mine and chalk carefully. It works fine. Scuffing really won’t help much.
All that matters is where the tip contacts the CB during the stroke. If you hit the CB farther out, you will get more spin, regardless of the shaft size and how you arrive at your desired line of aim. I use SAWS to get an accurate line of aim for any shot with sidespin, and the shaft diameter does not matter: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/saws/
We have some new house cues with 8mm tips for our work place. (We play English Pool). The tips are have a lot of shoulder and they are really hard as opposed to soft. I tried some deep screw shots but the cue ball jumps up evey time. Does this happen because the tips are new? Luckily I have my own cue in situ that has a larger and softer tip (9mm I think) and I have the tip with a more rounded dome and I get a ton of backspin with it. Your thoughts on the cue ball jumping please?
It could be caused many many things: tip not holding chalk, large CB deflection, cue too heavy, etc. It is probably not cue tip hardness, per the info and videos here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/hardness/
Do you think the amount of tip on the cue makes a difference?? Like let's say we had two of the same exact cue. One has a brand new tip and the other is worn down to almost needing replacement. Would that make any actual difference in playability or in how the cue ball reacts off the tip??
When a tip is used and not as tall, the tip effectively plays a little harder. For more info, see: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/hardness/ That's the only significant effect, but it is still a small effect.
Hello Dr. Dave! I love you're video's and your video's has been helping alot ever since I stumbled upon your channel because of Rollie Williams. And I also have a question about you're old pool table the green one, What happened to the old table and what size is it? Because I have been planning to buy a pool table.
I’m glad you enjoy and benefit from my stuff. The new table is 9’. The old table was 8’. I gave it the old table to the table mover/installer as part of my payment and he later sold it.
@@soriano278 My previous 8’ table was a Connelly. My current 9’ table is an Olhausen. It was previously owned by Robert Byrne: billiards.colostate.edu/dr-dave/interview/#Table
Hey Dr Dave! I recently replaced my cue tip to a kamui clear. I shaped to where I like it, but noticed the tip is significantly taller than anyone I play with. Mine is almost a centimeter tall after shaping. Should tip length/shoulder be cut down? Or is that a natural consequence of maintenance and wearing down?
I am not aware of any such effect. Although, the balls certainly wear and can be different sizes and weights within a set, which can affect performance. For more info, see: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/ball/weight/
So the question I have is I play a 12.25 to a 12.5 what is the most affective tip shape that will give me the best performance, I currently use a dime on my 12.25 but on my bk rush I use nickel
Do you think the day will ever come when all subjects of pool have been completely covered by Dr. Dave videos? I doubt it! Just off the top of my head, we still need to cover how temperature, humidity and solar flares affect pool play. :)
I still have a huge list of future topics I still want to cover, and it is doubtful I could finish them in this lifetime. BTW, temperature and humidity effects are already covered in detail here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/table/humidity-effects/ So there. :)
Coming back around to this topic, I was playing league play and asked one of the higher rated players on the team what type of tip he used. He claimed he has been using the tip that came on the cue and has been using it for many years without changing it. My interest isn't in the shaping but the hardness (no puns intended). When ordering a new cue, or a spare or new shaft for an existing cue, you get a choice of Super Soft, Soft, Medium or Hard. Can you give some guidance (or link to a video) that discusses the pro and cons of each and how they effect play?
Good players can play well with any tip (assuming it holds chalk), but I prefer a harder tip per the info and videos here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/hardness/
Is it fair to say that between two tips (one rounded to nickel and rounded to dime), playing a shot with each where they have the exact same tip position below center, exact same speed of the cue at the moment of contact, and exact same shaft diameter, that the one rounded to a dime would achieve more spin?
First off thanks for this and all your other videos. I have gotten a lot from them. This is slightly off topic, I apologize. I have a question about carbon fiber shafts. In your opinion is it normal and or acceptable to get black residue on your bridge hand at the contact point of the shaft and bridge? I play with an open bridge primarily and recently got a new cue from a reputable U.S. manufacturer. On the first day, after playing a few hours there was residue on my thumb and index finger. It has happened every time I play even after cleaning the shaft. Seems like that shouldn’t happen. Am I wrong?
I always feel like I miscue more on a draw shot with a nickel radius than a dime radius. Not sure if my conclusion is accurate though (coincidence? small sample size?).
Is that true that everytime you change tip, the Diameter of the cue tip will reduce by size? So it will be smaller? I had 12.5mm tip. I changed my tip to the guy i know, and after 2 times changing tip with him, i bought the same shaft with the same diameter, but once i compared them side by side i recognize that the diameter is quite different. Is it the guy, who changes the tip bad, or is that normal?
I think straight out saying that it does not matter in the intro is very misleading. While it is possible to achieve all sorts of spin with varying sizes and shapes (except backspin), using a different cue definitely affects the way you have to play to achieve the same spin. So, I think it would be more accurate to say: it affects the way you have to play but it does not limit what you can do.
For novice and beginners, a flatter tip makes the game and tip maintenance easier. Ever wonder how after a stop shot the cue ball is spinning on the spot for a few seconds? With a flatter tip this unintentionally applied side spin causes less deflection thus increases shot making probability. If it were round, the deflection would make you miss the pocket. A round tip is great if you have Strickland level game.
A flatter tip definitely reduces the chance for unintentional sidespin (as illustrated in the video). It also makes it more difficult to apply spin (side, bottom, or top) when you need it.
So a low deflection cue (9 mm) with a flattish tip would not be low deflection ??? (or low squirt as I now say thanks to you, not that cue makers are going to remarket their fancy cues as "low squirt," lol)
Sure it would. It would have even less CB deflection since it could not apply much sidespin, even with a larger tip offset from center (if the tip is really flat).
It doesn't make sense. He says at the extreme end of makes a difference therefore every little bit makes a difference. I played with house cues after a Philippino shaped them and it was like a different game. I can't get the same shape myself and the different tools don't do any better than an arched piece of sand paper imo. Definitely makes a difference
@@solemjewel A change in shape does make a difference if you don’t changed where you target the CB based on the change in shape (to get the same tip contact point, which does make a difference), especially at the extremes. Also, if you think shape changes make a difference, then they most certainly will.
Heck, cue tips dont matter at all. One of my favorite "that-guy-thinks-he-knows-how-to-play-pool" memories was this: Guy take a Dufferin cue off the rack on the wall. Rolls it along the table. Must be warped, so he puts it back. Does this several times. Finally, he finds one that he thinks is worthy. Then proceeds to play with it. It had no tip on it. Obviously, playing with no tip is better playing with a cue with a small warp.
The tip is the most important part of the cue, even if the exact shape is not very important. My playing cue has a slight warp (due to the "less than perfect" joint extension), but it doesn't bother me one bit. The cue still hits the CB where I am aiming, and the CB still goes where I want.
@@bluedoggum8373 Since you are obviously right all the time, I can't argue with that. BTW, I agree that some of the points I made in the parallax video might have been questionable.
@@DrDaveBilliards you should redo that video and do it correctly. There is a lot of stuff going on in pool strokes. Maybe it’s not necessary to understand it to play well, but it’s there, and it’s interesting. And it’s certainly not parallax
@@bluedoggum8373 FYI, I address Samm’s non-straight stroke issue some at the 7:29 point in this video: th-cam.com/video/JDkmo-OQdEg/w-d-xo.html And I have lots of videos and info dealing with everything that happens (and should happen) with strokes at the links here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/
@@DrDaveBilliards the music will turn off many viewers. the music distracts from the video. i worked for McKinsey and BCG to help companies grow their sales (not cut headcount)
th-cam.com/video/ffHbUmYe_Pw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZQmu0Cl8d4_olsOL As per Dr. Dave rip shape has a very insignificant and almost invisible effect on the game.
Ohhh Dave, games don't matter at all! None of that matters, surely not the tip of a cue. And cloth cleanliness doesn't matter. And chalk doesn't matter. And degrees in computer science don't matter. And rules don't matter. Hmm, wait... 🤔... unless they do...?
P.S. Dave, here's the "B Side": What awesome information contained here, things that, during a game, can distract and cause a lack of focus to make the shot. Here, you spell it out better than any regular pool player ever could. Nice work!!
Please.....Please ...Please stop putting that little drip sound or what ever it is in all your videos.....I'm having trouble watching them because it is so annoying
People get that impression because they get used to their own shaft and don't really make a real effort to test this stuff with anything much different than what they're used to. But think about it this way: if you hit the same spot on the cue ball, how does the cue ball "know" that the rest of the tip is round or fat or skinny or whatever? The rest of the tip isn't touching it. Only the part that touches it has any effect. All the stuff that isn't touching it... doesn't matter what its shape is or how round it is. All the cue ball knows is where it was hit, and how hard.
*Contents:*
0:00 - Intro
0:14 - Shaft/Tip Size
2:04 - Tip Shape
5:56 - Wrap Up
*Supporting Resources:*
- cue tip size and shape effects: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/size-and-shape/
- selecting a cue: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/selecting/
- low CB deflection (LD) shafts: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/low-squirt/
- carbon fiber shafts: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/carbon/
- cue “hit” and “feel:” billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/feel/
- “tips” of spin: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/tips-and-percentage/
*Subscribe to Dr. Dave's TH-cam Channel:*
th-cam.com/users/DrDaveBilliards
Hi I have a off topic question, I have new Simonis 860 cloth on my table, if I use the round paper reinforcements to mark ball positions and tan packing tape to mark a target for ball position play will that hurt the cloth? thanks
@@JohnOlson-mb3ey It won’t hurt the cloth. For more info, see:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/training/teaching/
@@DrDaveBilliards Thanks so much!!
@@DrDaveBilliards THANK YOU
Watching your videos here and there for years now. I just want to appreciate your efforts. I really love the presentation style. No stupid music in the background, no stupid jumpcuts, no influcencer-blabla wrapping around the actual topic, straight to the point with enough detailed/scientific information. And all in all, it radiates a calmness that is also required for billiards and with a gentle touch of old school on top (For instance the jingle sound). Keep everything as it is. I love it!
Thanks. I appreciate the positive feedback.
Thank you for sizing up another great tip. Right on cue as always as I was wondering about shape recently.
Very well punned, indeed!!
I'm glad you got the "tip" you wanted at the time you wanted. :)
They always tell you that size of your shaft and tip doesn't matter, but it's mostly only to boost your self-esteem.
I knew that was "coming."
@@DrDaveBilliardsThat’s what she said
@@thetowndrunk988LOL
Who tells you that....? Never heard that before.... LOL
I switched from a 12.7 to 11.8 carbon fiber and the 11.8 isn't working out for me. At all.
Went to a dealer tried a bunch of shafts and I went with a mcdermott defy 12.5. It felt right for me.
Selling my 11.8 Jacoby shaft with kanui clear black for 300 👀👀👀.
5/16 x 18
Always appreciate your research and effort to inform subscribers. Thanks!
You're welcome. I enjoy making the videos.
Thanks for another great video, Dr. Dave!
When I changed from wood to carbon fiber, my maximum draw took a dramatic hit, which was very frustrating. I assumed it was because of the material, but the change in diameter (from < 12.0 mm to 12.9 mm) may have contributed a lot.
As always, very informative. Thank you for your dedication to this beautiful game!
You’re welcome. I’m glad you liked it.
I've always considered tip shape to have lesser impact vs shaft diameter. I do like a more rounded "edge" but not extreme (from Nickel). The smaller in diameter ya go, the more precise ya gotta be, or more like less effort (exaggerated result) = less forgiving. Absolutely enjoyable! Be Safe
Great video Dave!
This helps explain a problem I had with randomly switching cues.
I shoot what I called tips but I really only have the numbers zero to three. And three is only rarely used on longer low stun shots or close shots that are shot slowly with a lot of spin. 2 is where I live for most draws and force follows. But most of my game is between zero and one.
Now I understand why trying cues with different shaft thicknesses was difficult for me. I was always able to do fine as long as I didn't get very far out of center.
Thanks. I’m glad you found it helpful.
If there’s one thing that begins an amazing day is Dr.Dave talking about tips 🎊
I'm glad you like the tips about tips.
Thank you, this is exactly what I asked for. I will be sure to point people to this video when the matter comes up.
I’m sure it will. Point away.
Really great video of a topic full of myths (I think) because it’s so subtle and it’s mostly trial and error. Thank you for sharing!
I wish I had watched this prior to moving from a 12.9mm shaft with nickel radius to a 12.2mm shaft with a dime radius, one of the things that took me the longest to adjust to was the change in tip offset from center to get the same amount of spin. It would have been good to know this going in, instead of going through all the frustrations of recalibrating without knowing the root cause of the issue!
(I actually use a 14mm Mike Gulyassy ‘Frankenstein Shaft’ now with a quarter radius and I love the stiff hit and am still able to spin the cue ball as much as with any other cue I’ve played with and the thicker shaft feels better in my bridge and I much prefer the stiffer hit than the tiny diameter shafts that are gaining popularity. Goes to show the myth of ‘smaller shaft, rounder tip = more spin’ ain’t really true. I heard Earl Strickland was (before signing with JFlowers) using the 15mm version of the ‘Frankenstein Shaft’ and was still playing at a high-level-it’s the shaft he used at his latest Mosconi Cup appearance.)
Im glad you liked it. Thanks for sharing the stories.
Dr. Dave, my question that I’ve not seen addressed on your videos is in the difference between a left-handed player and a right handed player or ambidextrous players
Obviously, being ambidextrous is an asset; otherwise, there will be shots you won't be able to reach without an extension or bridge (whether you are right or left handed). Regardless of which hand you play with, the location of your personal vision center (especially if the cue needs to be on the body side of the nose) can make it difficult to find a comfortable stance with no neck tension, but this applies to any player. For more info, see:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/eyes/vision-center/
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stance/
Thank you for the advice I do think it would make an interesting video for those that might have the same question that I asked simply because of those traits… Just a suggestion. I am a really big fan and I have summer league coming up but prior to that I have watched your videos quite often And they have been very educational to the point that my game has improved immensely in so much that I am virtually 100 Fargo points ahead of other players in my division, whereas most of them are ranked in the division, whereas I am not, other than rank
@@JamesWII-fu7bt Thanks for the suggestion. I’m glad to hear my stuff has helped your game. I hope your improvement trend continues.
…..thanks once again for your trusted and valued information Dr. 🎱 🙌🏼🍻
You’re welcome. Thank you for the supportive comment.
Personal preference is just that personal liking.🤯
More good info thanks Dave.
0:43 There are cue tips and tools available that don't wear down your tip. The caveat is that the longer you use the tip the harder it becomes from impacting the cue ball. I use Kamui Black SS and their Drangons Tongue tool.
Edit: Nickle round on a 12.5mm shaft.
Tips also wear down with chalk use and play.
I use a Cuetec Cynergy 12.5mm shaft but tapered the ferrel so the tip is actually 12mm. At first it was an unintentional consequence of not chalking properly but then i had it professionally done when i had the tip changed
Awesome video, Dr. Thanks as well to Pat. I used to believe a dime made a huge difference in spin. Now, I know better. I’m interested in your thoughts on TipPik vs scuffing for holding chalk, and other tip maintenance ideas, if you ever get a chance.
I never pick or scuff my tip. For more info, see the video and other info here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/care/
I have a question about the diagram shown at 1:15 about the difference in the height at which shafts with different diameters can contact the cueball.
I get how this works in theory, but I'm wondering if the fact that in real life the cue can't be that low to the table while still being parallel to the table means that the actual difference in lowest possible contact point, in practice, could be more or less severe than what's pictured.
Like, I'd want to know the median bridge height, measuring from the table to the top of the highest point of the bridge hand. And then I'd want to know, assuming the longest possible realistic bridge length in order to have the cue be as parallel to the table as possible, what the median angle between cue and table is. And then I'd like to see what this diagram would look like at with the cues at that angle. The cues might also have to be moved out and up. Maybe this is just basic geometry I'm forgetting but I can't figure out if moving the cues back the same distance, up the same height, and tilting them at the same angle would change the delta between tip contact points.
In other words, it'd be interesting to know if, once you account for the average angle the cue is coming down, if tip diameter becomes more or less important for backspin than it appears in the diagram (which is, IMO, already a significant amount).
@@thestever See the info and illustrations here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/elevation/
Cue elevation does not change the points made in the video.
i wish my brain worked like Dr. Dave and I could eloquently describe topics like he does!
Thank you for the kind words.
Great explanation !! Thanks
Thank you, an you're welcome.
Great vid! Dr. Dave, what is the ideal size for snooker tip ? Thanks.
I don't play snooker, so I'm probably not the best person to ask. Although, the general principles here apply to all cue sizes and tip shapes:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/size-and-shape/
I am interested in whether you have a video that explores the relationship between shaft diameter/stiffness and deflection.
I cover this topic in detail here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/squirt/endmass/
Enjoy!
@@DrDaveBilliards Thanks kindly for the reply.
@@zoltanglass You’re welcome. I literally aim to swerve. :)
Thanks for this. I’ve heard some good players say they prefer a much flatter tip on their break cue. Do you have a view on this?
3:56 flatter tips impart less unintentional spin. This allows you to send the cueball with more force while sacrificing accuracy as the unintentional spin imparted from the decrease in accuracy will be mitigated by the flatter tip.
@@SliceNdicez Well stated. A flatter tip is definitely a good choice for a break cue.
@@DrDaveBilliards do you recommend a quarter radius? Or even flatter?
@@gideonf8696 A quarter radius is common. That's what I recommend (or slightly flatter).
There is a a soccer/football boot that has been popular since the late '90's - the Adidas Predator. It utilises rubber ridges along the instep which improves the amount of curve that the footballer gets from a kick. Does a layered tip have a similar effect - increasing spin - in comparison to a standard tip?
No. All playing tips grab the CB equally well (assuming they hold chalk).
Very insightful! Thanks Dave!
Thank you, and you're welcome.
Excellent explanation as always. Thanks!
Thank you, and you're welcome.
I switched to a BK Rush awhile back and immediately was having issues with getting way too much spin on the cue ball if I didn't hit perfectly center vs my old break cue. I'm assuming it's mainly due to the rounder tip and smaller diameter size... is it common for people to purposely shape their break cue tip more flat to help prevent the unintentional spin?
Yes. Break cue tips are usually shaped flatter.
Hello Dave and thanks for the video!
Which shape do you recommand for english pool ?
Mine is about 8,75mm and i use last 4 ever tool (dime shape) do you think it is ok? or should I make it more round?
Have a good day !
@@JoHan-hx6fg With such a small shaft diameter, you could go rounder, but dime shape is sufficient.
Dr.Dave I just got a break cue and it’s hard tip and is it okay for me to use a scuff and ruff it up. It seems chalk doesn’t apply all on the tip and doesn’t stay. I need help Dr.Dave
Hard thread cue tips (especially phenolic) don’t hold chalk as well, especially some of the new “premium” chalks. I use Master chalk on mine and chalk carefully. It works fine. Scuffing really won’t help much.
What about with shaft aiming edge to edge? When using side spin does a biger shaft gives you less side spin compared to a smaller shaft?
All that matters is where the tip contacts the CB during the stroke. If you hit the CB farther out, you will get more spin, regardless of the shaft size and how you arrive at your desired line of aim. I use SAWS to get an accurate line of aim for any shot with sidespin, and the shaft diameter does not matter:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/saws/
We have some new house cues with 8mm tips for our work place. (We play English Pool).
The tips are have a lot of shoulder and they are really hard as opposed to soft.
I tried some deep screw shots but the cue ball jumps up evey time. Does this happen because the tips are new?
Luckily I have my own cue in situ that has a larger and softer tip (9mm I think) and I have the tip with a more rounded dome and I get a ton of backspin with it. Your thoughts on the cue ball jumping please?
It could be caused many many things: tip not holding chalk, large CB deflection, cue too heavy, etc. It is probably not cue tip hardness, per the info and videos here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/hardness/
Do you think the amount of tip on the cue makes a difference?? Like let's say we had two of the same exact cue. One has a brand new tip and the other is worn down to almost needing replacement. Would that make any actual difference in playability or in how the cue ball reacts off the tip??
When a tip is used and not as tall, the tip effectively plays a little harder. For more info, see:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/hardness/
That's the only significant effect, but it is still a small effect.
I've heard of cues for snooker or English 8-ball with tips as thin as 7mm.
What sort of tips do those use?
Smaller shafts required rounder tips.
Thanks for another great video and helping to clear up misinformation :D
You're welcome. I aim to swerve (with any tip size or shape). :)
Thank you. 😊
You're welcome. I aim to swerve. :)
Hello Dr. Dave! I love you're video's and your video's has been helping alot ever since I stumbled upon your channel because of Rollie Williams. And I also have a question about you're old pool table the green one, What happened to the old table and what size is it? Because I have been planning to buy a pool table.
I’m glad you enjoy and benefit from my stuff. The new table is 9’. The old table was 8’. I gave it the old table to the table mover/installer as part of my payment and he later sold it.
After I did some research my conclusion is both your table 9 and 8 is Connelly right?
@@soriano278 My previous 8’ table was a Connelly. My current 9’ table is an Olhausen. It was previously owned by Robert Byrne:
billiards.colostate.edu/dr-dave/interview/#Table
Hey Dr Dave! I recently replaced my cue tip to a kamui clear. I shaped to where I like it, but noticed the tip is significantly taller than anyone I play with. Mine is almost a centimeter tall after shaping. Should tip length/shoulder be cut down? Or is that a natural consequence of maintenance and wearing down?
I wouldn't trim it down. It will last longer the way it is, as it wears down with chalking and periodic shaping.
@@DrDaveBilliards thank you! Your videos have demystified so much of the game for me
Hi Doc Dave, supplemental article is also available in your website right?
Yep:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/size-and-shape/
@@DrDaveBilliards Thanks again!!
Have you ever made a video on the age of the pool balls and if their elasticity degrades over time with use?
I am not aware of any such effect. Although, the balls certainly wear and can be different sizes and weights within a set, which can affect performance. For more info, see:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/ball/weight/
Could be interesting, especially a comparison when cut in half with a water jet to see the physical effects of water over time
@@waveyjones3347 Agreed. Unfortunately, my “list” of higher priority video ideas is already extremely long.
So the question I have is I play a 12.25 to a 12.5 what is the most affective tip shape that will give me the best performance, I currently use a dime on my 12.25 but on my bk rush I use nickel
As the video points out, it doesn't really matter much. The difference between a nickel and dime is certainly unimportant.
@@DrDaveBilliards thank you good sir
@@Original_BenF You're welcome.
Do you think the day will ever come when all subjects of pool have been completely covered by Dr. Dave videos? I doubt it!
Just off the top of my head, we still need to cover how temperature, humidity and solar flares affect pool play. :)
I still have a huge list of future topics I still want to cover, and it is doubtful I could finish them in this lifetime.
BTW, temperature and humidity effects are already covered in detail here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/table/humidity-effects/
So there. :)
Moon phases, and tidal cycles, too?
Sorry. I only study stuff important in pool. :)
Of course it is! LOL Thanks@@DrDaveBilliards I'll check it out!
@@DrDaveBilliards "I ain't no physcikisk, but I knows what matters." ~Popeye the Sailor
Coming back around to this topic, I was playing league play and asked one of the higher rated players on the team what type of tip he used. He claimed he has been using the tip that came on the cue and has been using it for many years without changing it. My interest isn't in the shaping but the hardness (no puns intended). When ordering a new cue, or a spare or new shaft for an existing cue, you get a choice of Super Soft, Soft, Medium or Hard. Can you give some guidance (or link to a video) that discusses the pro and cons of each and how they effect play?
Good players can play well with any tip (assuming it holds chalk), but I prefer a harder tip per the info and videos here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/hardness/
Is it fair to say that between two tips (one rounded to nickel and rounded to dime), playing a shot with each where they have the exact same tip position below center, exact same speed of the cue at the moment of contact, and exact same shaft diameter, that the one rounded to a dime would achieve more spin?
Yes, but only very slightly more as clearly illustrated in the video.
@@DrDaveBilliards Okay, makes sense. Thank you Dr Dave! I just like to test myself for understanding sometimes, haha. Love the education you provide
First off thanks for this and all your other videos. I have gotten a lot from them. This is slightly off topic, I apologize. I have a question about carbon fiber shafts. In your opinion is it normal and or acceptable to get black residue on your bridge hand at the contact point of the shaft and bridge? I play with an open bridge primarily and recently got a new cue from a reputable U.S. manufacturer. On the first day, after playing a few hours there was residue on my thumb and index finger. It has happened every time I play even after cleaning the shaft. Seems like that shouldn’t happen. Am I wrong?
That is common, but it should happen less are some use and a few cleanings.
@@DrDaveBilliards Ok, Thanks
Thanks
You're welcome. Merry Christmas.
Excellent Video!!!
Thanks!
I always feel like I miscue more on a draw shot with a nickel radius than a dime radius. Not sure if my conclusion is accurate though (coincidence? small sample size?).
The video would agree if the tip size is 10mm
Awesome, right as I'm about to get off work
Then there is not reason to not do your "homework" like a good boy. :)
@@DrDaveBilliards lol I'll be sure to do that
What sizes do you personally shoot with doc?
I use a dime radius on my 12.4 mm Revo (although, nickel would be fine).
Is that true that everytime you change tip, the Diameter of the cue tip will reduce by size? So it will be smaller? I had 12.5mm tip. I changed my tip to the guy i know, and after 2 times changing tip with him, i bought the same shaft with the same diameter, but once i compared them side by side i recognize that the diameter is quite different. Is it the guy, who changes the tip bad, or is that normal?
if 2 tip changes results in a noticeably thinner shaft you have a bad tip guy
Agreed. This is not "normal."
What a different soft tip, medium tip, and hard tip?
See the videos and info here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/hardness/
Thank you, Uncle dave 😊
So tip shape sounds like it matters more on jump cues since you’re usually trying to get precise tip position and such.
… and break cues.
Great video
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
Fantastic insights!
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
I like a 10mm to 12.5 my opinion doesn’t matter how hard or soft the tip is or the weight
For more info on tip hardness effects, see the videos and info here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/hardness/
I think straight out saying that it does not matter in the intro is very misleading. While it is possible to achieve all sorts of spin with varying sizes and shapes (except backspin), using a different cue definitely affects the way you have to play to achieve the same spin. So, I think it would be more accurate to say: it affects the way you have to play but it does not limit what you can do.
Everything “matters,” but I think the video clearly shows that the differences in commonly used tip shapes are mostly unimportant.
Agreed, which is why I think while the video is very informative, the intro is misleading.
Thx 👌👍
Yw
so it really is personal if u use on a 12,4mm a dime or nickel shape
Yep. The choice isn’t important as long as you get used to any change.
For novice and beginners, a flatter tip makes the game and tip maintenance easier. Ever wonder how after a stop shot the cue ball is spinning on the spot for a few seconds? With a flatter tip this unintentionally applied side spin causes less deflection thus increases shot making probability. If it were round, the deflection would make you miss the pocket. A round tip is great if you have Strickland level game.
A flatter tip definitely reduces the chance for unintentional sidespin (as illustrated in the video). It also makes it more difficult to apply spin (side, bottom, or top) when you need it.
Dr Dave answering the question we all want to know: does size matter?
I knew comment like this were "coming."
So a low deflection cue (9 mm) with a flattish tip would not be low deflection ??? (or low squirt as I now say thanks to you, not that cue makers are going to remarket their fancy cues as "low squirt," lol)
Sure it would. It would have even less CB deflection since it could not apply much sidespin, even with a larger tip offset from center (if the tip is really flat).
It doesn't make sense. He says at the extreme end of makes a difference therefore every little bit makes a difference.
I played with house cues after a Philippino shaped them and it was like a different game.
I can't get the same shape myself and the different tools don't do any better than an arched piece of sand paper imo.
Definitely makes a difference
@@solemjewel A change in shape does make a difference if you don’t changed where you target the CB based on the change in shape (to get the same tip contact point, which does make a difference), especially at the extremes. Also, if you think shape changes make a difference, then they most certainly will.
Is the Dr Dave purely a nickname or do have a doctorate degree in something?
I have a PhD in mechanical engineering. For more info, see:
billiards.colostate.edu/dr-dave/
www.engr.colostate.edu/~dga/
Heck, cue tips dont matter at all. One of my favorite "that-guy-thinks-he-knows-how-to-play-pool" memories was this: Guy take a Dufferin cue off the rack on the wall. Rolls it along the table. Must be warped, so he puts it back. Does this several times. Finally, he finds one that he thinks is worthy. Then proceeds to play with it. It had no tip on it. Obviously, playing with no tip is better playing with a cue with a small warp.
The tip is the most important part of the cue, even if the exact shape is not very important. My playing cue has a slight warp (due to the "less than perfect" joint extension), but it doesn't bother me one bit. The cue still hits the CB where I am aiming, and the CB still goes where I want.
@@DrDaveBilliards I think you missed my sarcasm. :P
Y’all heard it here first, guys!
DAM right!
It's funny to see people go on and on about one size being "so much" better than the other....lol
Obviously from the video, I agree.
Smaller and more rounded = more spin.
As the video clearly shows, this is not really the case.
@@DrDaveBilliards you’re wrong all the time so I have no faith in your stuff. You were way wrong on the “parallax” video you made.
@@bluedoggum8373 Since you are obviously right all the time, I can't argue with that. BTW, I agree that some of the points I made in the parallax video might have been questionable.
@@DrDaveBilliards you should redo that video and do it correctly. There is a lot of stuff going on in pool strokes. Maybe it’s not necessary to understand it to play well, but it’s there, and it’s interesting. And it’s certainly not parallax
@@bluedoggum8373 FYI, I address Samm’s non-straight stroke issue some at the 7:29 point in this video:
th-cam.com/video/JDkmo-OQdEg/w-d-xo.html
And I have lots of videos and info dealing with everything that happens (and should happen) with strokes at the links here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/
great advice. but the music is annoying. I'm in my 50s so I know these sounds but this is 2024.
Didn't you hear? Retro is "in." :)
@@DrDaveBilliards but not nerd...and I studied electrical engineering at UIUC and Stanford
@@maxhung69 Nerd alert! 🤓
@@DrDaveBilliards the music will turn off many viewers. the music distracts from the video. i worked for McKinsey and BCG to help companies grow their sales (not cut headcount)
@@maxhung69 Wow. The short audio clips are a big issue for you. I doubt they are for many others, but I could be wrong.
th-cam.com/video/ffHbUmYe_Pw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZQmu0Cl8d4_olsOL
As per Dr. Dave rip shape has a very insignificant and almost invisible effect on the game.
As pointed out in the video, tip shape does have effects, but it doesn't change what can be done with the tip (assuming the tip is very flat).
Ohhh Dave, games don't matter at all! None of that matters, surely not the tip of a cue. And cloth cleanliness doesn't matter. And chalk doesn't matter. And degrees in computer science don't matter. And rules don't matter. Hmm, wait... 🤔... unless they do...?
P.S. Dave, here's the "B Side": What awesome information contained here, things that, during a game, can distract and cause a lack of focus to make the shot. Here, you spell it out better than any regular pool player ever could. Nice work!!
Thanks! I like telling people who go on about equipment: "It is not the cue. It is you."
@@DrDaveBilliards Awesome stuff, Dr. Dave!!
fat shaft and a dime radius,deadly combo
… as long as you don’t mind a shorter tip shoulder and shorter tip life.
Please.....Please ...Please stop putting that little drip sound or what ever it is in all your videos.....I'm having trouble watching them because it is so annoying
I'm not sure what you mean. Are you referring to the sound effect at the beginning of each section?
That's a lie you can believe that if you want
You will need to be specific, maybe with a MM:SS timestamp. Many effects and topics are covered in the video.
There's a big difference between you disagreeing and a lie
People get that impression because they get used to their own shaft and don't really make a real effort to test this stuff with anything much different than what they're used to. But think about it this way: if you hit the same spot on the cue ball, how does the cue ball "know" that the rest of the tip is round or fat or skinny or whatever? The rest of the tip isn't touching it. Only the part that touches it has any effect. All the stuff that isn't touching it... doesn't matter what its shape is or how round it is. All the cue ball knows is where it was hit, and how hard.
ya how dare he use science