good stuff Steven. i have been testing heavier heads on the 28'' ,and been lovin' it , as mainly a wood splitter fella, the extra weight out there is welcomed . yer 'best first axe' suggestion, is bang on brother .
Good to hear from you Buckin'! I'm also interested in heavier heads on short handles, but never seem to get around to making them lol. As a generalist who is always. hiking around the woods on foot, I pretty much always grab the same configuration. If I'm going further, or walking more, I might grab the under 2lb head and for long hikes where I might happen to need something, it's the belt hatchet.
I'm going to build a heavy Jersey head on a straight 28" head ala' "Miner's Axe". For camping, they make sense for a longer stay like during a deer camp.
Steven, as far as your analysis about finding oneself watching a long axe 🪓 video and all of a sudden……ouch! Bitten by the axe 🪓 bug 🐞!!! Spot on and my wife is not happy 😃 😊 😆!!!
Hey Steve, took your advice and looked for an axe head. Found a Council Tool 2.11 lb head with a broken handle in it for $12. Remove the handle and then went to Ace hardware and found a 28" Boys axe handle for $15.99. I'm in GA. It came with a wood wedge and 2 metal wedges made by, or supplied by Ames to Ace hardware. Hung it together last night per some of your videos and others here on youtube. Took some effort shaving the handle eye part to fit it down tight onto the handle. Was able to get the wedge in, some boiled linseed oil and then wedged it with both types after cutting it down from access. I never thought I could do it but studying your videos I took the time and got it done. I'll sharpen the bit more and take it this weekend to do some cutting on some down tree stuff for some splitting and just give it a go to see if it holds up and up my chopping, splitting skills. I was going to spend major $$$ on a Gransfors but per your guidance, kinda built my own and I am proud of that. Thanks again for your guidance and education on this.
I think you'll be happier w/ your tool you made than somebody else's. If there are issues you'll learn from them. I'm in Georgia, 43 miles north of Florida, north of the Okefenokee. There's still some old-timers around, find one. Tell him you want to know how they used to do this or that. If he knows he'll prolly tell you. Have a GRUEAT day, Neighbor!
@@jons2447 Hey fellow Georgian, you are not fibbing I love my axe. And I mean MY axe. I didn't forge the head nor did I make the handle (not yet) but it's a beaut. And I went to a different farmers market a few weekends back not even looking and I stumbled onto a unmarked eye ridged True Temper Connie, Collins Commander and a Plumb boys axe for $25. Connecticut I haven't done anything with and the Commander I let my brother use/have but the Plumb I haft onto a 25" and sharpened it and use it for splitting. It's a 2lb 3oz head so wicked on trees up to like 10" a round. It's splits well too. It's in the truck. But the Council is a workhorse. The TT Connecticut I think I'll find a 30" or 32" for it. It's a 3lb 7oz head so I'm sure I can chop and split with it. Thanks for the guidance and I'm going to try to get up enough to do a Cordwood challenge one day. Gotta love the axes.
Stephen, you are the TH-cam Axe Godfather! Watching your Cordwood video in 2017 made me switch from a full-size splitting axe to a boy’s axe and start chopping. Presently, during the April-May Covid lockdown, I started my own channel. And I can say that so much of what I learned, and am learning, corresponds directly with your experience as well. 2lbs-3lbs on a 24-28” handle is basically all I’m interested in using anymore. And my handles keep getting thinner and my grinds narrower. Most steels seem to hold up at 18degrees without a secondary bevel, something I’d never have believed if I hadn’t tried it myself. Direct experience is really the only exact knowledge we can attain, accounting of course for mis-perception and preconceived biases. Anyway, thanks again for inspiring me to get out there and start chopping. The Cord Wood Challenge is in good hands with Ben.
Cool. I'll have to check out your stuff. I have tried true 20 degrees a couple times and it's been too thin. I'd have to guess that you are either rounding the end, or measuring under the high points of a rounded bevel. I always measure the actual end cutting edge, but I know a lot of people will call convex bevels narrower than I will. If you can do a dead flat 18 degrees to a perfect edge with no rounding or secondary, and chop in almost anything without rolling or chipping, I'll be impressed!
No, I’m talking chisel grinds. I have added a secondary bevel on some. The oxhead and Council rolls, but the vintage stuff and the HB and Gransfors have held up just fine. I wouldn’t have believed it either until i kept pushing it. I have some on the channel.
@@KevinsDisobedience That is impressive. I might have to go back to experimenting. Now if you can come here and chop through old fir knots with that and dead madrone and not loose a piece of bit... I'll try to check out what you're doing. I don't watch a lot of axe content usually. TH-cam is mostly for uploading and deathmetal videos :D
Ben Scott’s done some work in this direction too. He started running into issues right around 18-19 degrees. Same as me. I’m cutting mostly oak and maple and some Cherry, but yeah hard knots can cause problems no matter what the grind. If you get a chance check a video or two out, but no need. Keep watching the death metal. Lol. I enjoy your content a lot.
My first axe was a 4# True Temper which I bought over 50 years ago. It has gone through several handles, primarily due to overstrikes. It now has a 31.5” does leg handle. I ran over it with a tractor and put a crack in the eye. About 25 years ago. I had it MIG welded and it has performed fine for me, since. I have several Boy’s axes- a 40 year old True Temper, a Council Tools boys axe and a GB Scandinavian Forest axe. I use anyone of the later three as wedge bangers for my chainsaws. I use my Stihl chainsaws for most felling and bucking. I may use an axe for limbing on occasion but mostly I use a chainsaw. I gave my youngest daughter a CT Boys axe. She does not cut trees with it, so it gets mainly root work. Cutting tree roots to plant things in her yard/garden.
I've learned so many things from you about axes and axmanship. You've got the most organized content and clear explanations and the way you sharpen, thin the handles and use those axes is just the way I do it, too. Always eager for the next video :D
Only have one axe . it was my grand fathers . He was killed in 1948 . it is a 2 bit and though i never saw him . His axe was made when things were quality . It has cut off 1000s of chicken ,well poultry heads . We butchered them growing up for people .Kindling and brush . He was Amish and growing up we used a cross cut saw , and it was used to notch the tree . Love my old axe !
Cold steel camp axe head on a 28” handle 2.5lbs. Perfect hiking axe that can take down a full sized tree if need be but light and handy for keeping trails cleared
I think that might be the one that is basically like a hudson's bay pattern. I'm not a big fan of those types. I don't see anything they have with 2.5lb head, they are all light heads under 2lb.
I have had the GFB Scandinavian Forrest Axe for several years. I use it mostly when back country camping. It's longer than the small forest axe and great for me at 6'1". If I can't manage to get material up to a decent height for splitting, I will swing while on my knees. If I were to miss, the axe will bury itself in the ground before it buries itself into my shin. That could he fatal when you're days away from the trailhead. If I can get material up where I'm comfortable making a proper standing swing, I will still kind of squat on the downstroke. This is so the axe is coming straight down, it helps me use my weight to complete the chop and were I to miss or come straight through, the axe sticks into the stump. Not my leg.
I'm not a fan of the squat personally, but to each his own. There are other ways to keep that bit away from us, but as you well know, the larger that ratio between your length and the axe length, the more you have to adapt physically to keep the bit away from you. For back country stuff, there is rarely a stump and if I chop and split a lot of wood (unlikely) it will have chisel ends anyway, so laying it up on against a backing log or splitting it with the golf swing style is much more likely. That is very dangerous too, but I'm pretty specific and careful about how I do it, as with all axe work. I find one of the most useful concepts is direction of cut. making sure the bit is not traveling toward us and that it stays that way when encountering all the various physics involved in actual work.
24 inch helko traditional, 2 1/4 lbs head perfectly fits me. Father was a forester and spent most of my youth in the woods. Out side of specialty axes a quality mid sized felling axe is a perfect tool.
I started with forest service boys axe 2.25lb 26in. It was great for the truck, backpack, and forest camping. Use my boys axe mostly for shelter and fire activities. Then, I graduated to an HB Qvarfot 1.9lb 26in forest axe. My first boys axe was $30 and I tuned it. The HB was $200 after shipping and still needs light tuning. I live at 8kft boreal forest.
My current go to axe is a 2.5lb on a 35" straight handle, at 6'4" I like the added length for safety peace of mind. With the armpit straight arm axe length test It seems as-though I could go down to 30-31" I'm not a super avid axe user, as I basically only use them well camping and if i'm going to a families backyard fire then I'll usually bring along a hatchet or axe and a batoning knife... gotta take advantage of splitting wood when ever I get the chance. I only just recently restored the 2.5lb vintage axe head and have only used it a few times so far... definitely prefer the secure/safe feeling the longer handle gives me over a 25-27" axe, but also feel its slightly longer then I really need it to be for a axe thats predominately used for splitting wood and of course any weight one can shave off of there backpack camp load is always great... but even in my brief time using it so far, I've basically came to the conclusion and understanding that with my height, im always gonna prefer a longer handled axe over a lighter shorter one and thats gonna come with a sacrifice in weight savings and packability but its a worthwhile trade off in the end for me personally. Now its a matter of finding that true goldielocks sweet spot for me personally... I feel 35" is slightly to long 27ish to short, so I'll likely spend some more time testing it out with its current 35" handle a few more times give it, its fair shot since a longer handle axe is still relatively new to me so theres for sure a little adapting to the mechanics of carrying and swinging the longer axe but im pretty sure in the end ill eventually chop it down to 30-31ish... The few times ive used it, i have experimented with my hand positioning... as in, choking up on the butt end of the axe handle and it does seems to be right around the 30" mark that feels most natural to hold and swing... which again amazingly does correspond quite accurately with the armpit arm length test. My original thought process of using the 35' handle was that that best matches my leg inseam (34") so with a missed strike Id be most likely to hit ground rather then myself, but it seems the most accurate and ideal axe length test, is infact the armpit test... which makes sense since although you use your entire body in swinging an axe, your arms, hands, and wrists are doing most of the hard labor so it makes sense you'd want the axe generally fine tuned to your bodies arm length/upper body and your personal range of motion.
No doubt longer handles put the head futher away from you when thing go haywire. I definitely prefer a regular long handle for splitting, but with attention and understanding, you use short axes safely enough. At that height, I would guess 30 ish inches would be about right as an equivalent to a 28 inch for most average height guys. Stay safe :)
@@SkillCult Thanks a lot for the response. Yeah, I've got a few hatchets, a standard 25" boys axe and a nice 34" handled double bit, but had nothing in that 28-32" range... so I ended up going for it and I cut it down to 31" almost instantly regretted it because the feel was so drastically different then i had become accustomed to it feeling in hand... but after a few more days of adapting a feel for it, its for sure a vary useful sized axe, that im sure will get many days to shine in the field. I agree that for those above average height, a 30ish inch handle is basically the sweet spot equivalent to 28ish for most others... when doing the armpit length test its perfect for me and when doing the arm hang test (standing the axe on the ground beside your leg and reaching down to the end knob) the handle lands right around my middle fingers, middle joint... so its for sure proportioned well to me. The biggest annoyance about cutting the handle down in length is losing the nice palm swell, luckily there seems to be just enough meat left in the handle that I should be able to shape a small swell, just gotta give myself a day to commit to the task.
@@SkillCult Follow up question... What's your general thoughts on straight handle palm swells, do you consider it a necessity to have palm swells on all axe handles/large swinging tools? do you find theirs any exception to the rule for straight handles? like it seems to not be totally uncommon to see a sledge or maul with no palm swell at all.
Again its only a 2.5# single bit... so far it seems fairly wieldable and controllable especially for standard chopping block wood splitting tasks, where your generally striking downward in parallel with the ground, rather then swinging on a more circular axis like when buckin wood. From my limited research it seems with straight handles many people are content just cutting the end off and leaving the handle with no palm swell... And id assume that back in the day when handles where much thinner, such a thing wouldve been even more common since if you choose to cut down a handle you likely werent left with much wiggle room for reshaping the handle profile... like we have the "luxury" of doing nowadays with our ultra thick handle standards of modern... but with that said, back in the day there was also so much more variety in retail replacement handles that it could be plausible... that if you wanted a shorter handle, youd just get the proper size you want and rehang the axe head on it or just flat out purchase the differing size axes youd like, rather then cut the end off of a overly long handle... and maybe even just like today, back then it went both ways depending on the individual themselves and there motivation/skill level... like I assume theres always been the type of folks that would just cut a handle down in length and call it a day, well on the other hand exists the perfectionist that had to complete the task fully and "properly"
Im gonna take on the task no matter what since the handle is slightly thicker then id prefer, so why not reshape a palm swell and thin it out to perfection. but im still curious to hear your particular thoughts/opinions on straight handles with or without a palm swell... it seems to be one of those grey area's in life, where theres vary mixed opinions on the subject. I dont typically cut down the handle length after hanging an axe so this is actually my first experience using an axe without a palm swell... and my conclusion so far has basically become that for a strictly splitting tasked axe, that a palm swell doesnt make or break it... but for other axe tasks like chopping and buckin a palm swell becomes vary important, since your potentially swinging with a bit more force then you would well just splitting wood and of course swinging in a bunch of varying directions, rather then a much more controlled straight up and down motion... but my knowledge and experience is still vary limited. So curious to see what opinion/conclusion you may have on the subject of straight handle palm swells. Sorry for such a long winded response, it can be hard to condense ones thoughts, opinions, and questions down to a brief statement/response.
What? OK, your first 30 seconds just perfectly described the last couple weeks of my life. I went from ... why would anyone want to do unnecessary work to get firewood past calling the wood guy to... OMG, axes... this is awesome. This is my new calling. What I have been missing all my life. And it's all your fault. Thanks for all that.
ha ha. Sorry and you're welcome :) I learned in youtube video school to anticipate the story of the viewer so they feel like content is made for them. I think I nailed it this time lol. Stay safe.
You nailed that intro and have given me Tom Sawyer Effect since I found your channel last week. Lol. And I just ordered a new axe for camping and hunting in Alberta Canada. The Gransfors Bruk Scandinavian forest axe. Love your channel and every vid I've watched so far. Amazing channel. I've learnt so much already.
You’ll love it. I recently got one after years of reluctance and it’s all I want to use. Just did a video on it, too. She’s a gorgeously made tool. Still needs some work, but not much.
I am fairly new to Ax work and I am hooked brother. I love it, I bought a couple of different axes recently and one of them that I bought and I really really love is a boy's ax. It's a Colin's ax 2 and 1/4 lb I believe. And man, I do a lot of different things with that. As far as chopping down trees, it's really nice. Love the way it feels. This is a great hobby. A great workout it's very therapeutic, I like your videos by the way
That intro has me described backwards...lol. I came for axes and started seeing videos of you eating apples. For a few weeks I thought it was weird...now I myself have Frankentrees and get super giddy when you release apple related videos 😎 But in general if I have a question about something, I usually check your channel first. Thanks for all you've taught me!!
lol steven... thanks for the laughs too along with great info. I'm a gal and swing an ax too!! Well, just to split the wood that's been cut. Guess that'd be a wedge ax?
@@SkillCult lol, I guess I forgot to mention that I'm now 62 yrs old and still swinging!! ;)) I use one of those maul types...works fine and I like the weight, but you got me wondering if I need to start thinking about using a smaller weighted axe? Guess after all these years, I still got whatever muscles it takes - developed to swing it.
Your intro is hilarious! What's even funnier, it's true. I watched you chopping for too long this week waiting for the weekend to get my chop on!! Tom Sawyer effect. Guess you're Huck Finn?
I know right, that intro was forged from a lot of comments ove the years :) Tom Sawyer effect refers to the part where he has to paint a fence and doesn't want to, but the other kids wandering by think it looks fun, so he ends up trading for all kinds of cool stuff to make the other kids do it.
@@SkillCult Ah yes, I remember that part. I read it over 50 years ago, 10 - 12 years old. My best friend Dave became Tom and I was Huck. Mostly just made rafts, play-camped on river bank, burned stuff, and tried smoking all kinds of vegetation in our cob pipes LOL! Anyway, chopping the past couple months has buffed this old geezer up a bit. Thanks for tricking me into doing even more of it, Tom!
really good video for the new woodsman. I totally agree with slimming down the handles and bringing the balance point to the head. Let the axe head do the work not your back.
I don't do many lumber but own only 3 axes.1) GB Scandinavian for deep cuts and overall, good chopper 2) Council Boys axe 2.25 lbs velvicut for a bit more power when splitting. 3) GB Small Forest Axe goes in my truck for 1 hand job here and there, normally I use it as hammer and split on floor mesquite for bbq, nice around the house axe. Not a lumber or woodman by anymeans. South Texas full of desert so no many trees to fight
Really agree with your take on Trekking axes, couldnt agree more, I have no clue how they've generated such an army of fans. I'm currently looking for my first good "all arounder", which oddly enough is the last size of axe that I need. Here in Canada the Hultafors are more economical that the Council tool axes. Thinking the 1.2kilo felling axe would be my best option, though its a tad heavyer than 2.5 lbs.
I might very well be buying hultafors over council if they were cheaper here. I think over 2.5 is fine. closer to three and I would start to notice it I think. I'm not a fan of handles over 30 inches unless needed for some reason. for all arounders, I'll stick to under 30 inches personally, but a lot of guys are used to a certain thing and can't adapt away from it. It's all good, whatever works.
@@SkillCult I think 1.2kg comes out to roughly 2.75 lbs, and that axe has a 28" handle. I agree with you on the long handles, I've just got big vintage axes because they are plentifull and cheap up here. I've got a 2lb German style head on a 26" handle that I use on canoe/ snowshoe trips, but honestly that axe is not optimal for harvesting dead wood.
Lots of good points there. I've found myself using a vintage 2 1/4 lb HB I put on a 27" handle lately. Sometimes pairing it up with a small hatchet. Lots of versatility in that combo.
I got a 2.5lbs wetterlings hudson bay head. Always thought the 23" handle was way too short. This video has inspired me. Gonna whittle down an old 33" handle i got lying around to a 28" fit, should be a good marriage! Thanks for the inspiration. Just gotta run it past the 'ol trouble and strife first. Peace from London
@@pahlavandan3989 Not yet. It's mostly to do with the eye size not being very stable and causing more frequent breaks an loosening. Also, they are just not the most efficient choppers. but you can do fine with one. try it out for a while. if you don't like it, there are lots of people who will buy it from you for enough to buy a pile of good american axe heads lol.
Was using a what, 32, 35, 36 inch felling ax, can't recall the head weight, pretty heavy, head given to me as a gift, was using it to split on a stump. Can't even recall what happened, glancing blow? I cut a 5 inch gouge into the moist clay soil of my back yard, bit stopped an inch before my toes (inside my shoes). That length literally saved my foot. The clay is harder than my flesh and bones. I can't imagine the wound. I do agree with the notion of purpose designed and built axes. If you only have one, buy more. :) Even if you have the same weight and same length, you may want a chopper/cutter, you may want one with thicker cheeks for splittin. It's a thing.
I grew up in the era when children were taught in Boy Scouts to use axes, knives, guns, archery, all the stuff you probably go to jail for these days 😂. Our son was maybe 8 or 9, I get called to school. Very ominous. They tell me the task was to draw a person. So he drew a man in the woods because I’ve always loved backpacking and canoeing. They said draw the man doing something…and they slowly spin this drawing around to me and said “He drew THIS.” The man was holding AN AXE! OMG the horror!!! 😅 I laughed and said he likes chopping wood! We chop wood in the back yard! Some people…. My go-to these days is the Council Tools Camp Carver, 16 inch. I love that thing! I have a Cold Steel Hudson Bay tomahawk and I love it as well, used it until the Camp Carver.
I built a collins axe 2-1/4 axe head and hickory 28 inch handle and that paired with a plastic wedge splits wood like crazy and chops great after I took the angle back
I've been pretty happy with my Hults Bruk 3.5 pound 32 inch. I'm a big guy so it fits well. Also, I have a couple options both up and down in size and weight. My go-to bucking limbing axe though.
The heel-toe is only 4" and the cheeks have a slight hollow. I've used it comfortably to 6" diameter in the wood lot. Any smaller or if in rocky soil, probably drop to the 28" 2.5-ish. Usually I use a backer log for more stability which might have something to do with it.
I do find that the extra couple of inches seems to find an inordinately larger amount of brush. Probably a math equation out there somewhere. Anyway, not great for cleaning clumps of alder out of the douglas fir.
Another Great Skillcult video filled with axe wisdom on the Cutting Edge, of course. Now I'm charged to go outside and swing me blade. But alas, it's getting dark. Are the fires threatening you or the smoke? Hope not! Half my family lives in Portland. Now they have smoke and fire to deal with on top of the cone head virus 1984. Thanks Kindly Steven for another fine video! I'll soon be completing a project made of my homemade Skillcult leather and I'll be in touch. Peace, Good Health, Perfect Apples and Lovely Women! DaveyJO in Pa.
I remember you mentioning a 3lb head as your favorite. Which is damn near impossible to find. Because of you I hunted for one, and found a beautiful vintage German made one. It's now my favorite.
I did everything you said here and I agree with you. It took me about (3) decades to learn what you are saying here and I am still learning something new every time I go out. I hope peeps are listening. P.S. I still love Hudson Bay, but they are NOT for anyone serious. I take my Hudson Bay when I go backyard camping in case my head comes off. Mine has been loosening but hadn't fallen off, yet. Just waiting for that day so I can properly rehang it. P.S.S. It puts a smile on my face every time when I call it a Boy's Axe someone picks it up like, "oh, that's cute" and they cut themselves on the sharp bit or take out their shin. I take immense pleasure in the fact that they just survived the most dangerous encounter in their life. Also, they will never underestimate the power of the unpowered tool, ever again.
For less than a hundred dollars you can get the Hults Bruks Agdor Montreal pattern with 28 inch handle. 2.5 lb. head. One hell of a good axe! Thanks for the video bro!
That is what Mason calls them. the northeastern loggers manual says they came to America with french canadians. I'm guessing it was their go to axe already, but that they worked in the pulpwood industry a lot. Might be an interesting history to look into. If you look on my community page on youtube, there;s a post that I did a couple years ago of an account of a guy working alongside a french canadian worker using pretty much this same type of axe. check it out.
I actually got a council tool boys axe, the newer sport utility, and was pleasantly surprised with the the quality. I bought the file you recommend in preparation for modifying the bit; I am pleased to report my bit only needed light honing with a trashy puck to achieve a paper cutting edge. I haven't measured the angles of the cutting edge but while playing around with a 16in round I easily notched a significant amount in only a few swings. I've trimmed a little fat off the handle near the eye, as you've recommended in other videos, but the rest of the handle is very slim and feels good in my medium sized hand. I really love this axe, it suits all my current needs and like you've said can be used effectively with one hand. I took a butane torch to add quick character to the handle then covered it in "raw pure" linseed oil and wow, I couldn't be happier with this tool.
On the one I got, I'd definitely remove quite a bit behind the edge for chopping efficiency. But at least it comes near useable. Have fun and stay safe :)
looks like a nice dark color on some of those handles. is that blo? or wadca danish oil? thanks. love to hear your take on burning handles and soaking them.
i have a video on the charring axe handles thing I dont' do it. To me charred wood is compromised wood. It's just age, dirt and plain oil. I have vids on oiling handles too, just prefer raw drying oils.
Here in Australia the hardware stores invariably sell 2 kilogram Tasmanian pattern axes. Realistically you'll be buying a chainsaw and a hydraulic splitter. We broke the handles on 2 splitters and 2 axes on a piece of seasoned yellow box.
Interesting, that is quite heavy. I hear a lot of tales of the brutal hardness and toughness of australian woods. I assume you also have some reasonably easy woods.
Im in the camp of for my general purpose axe I prefer a slightly heavier head on a short handle....for some reason for me the 3 to 3 and half lb head on a short 28 to 30 inch handle seams to be the best all around for me a light 2 and quarter to 2 and half lb axe makes me want to bring the head speed up chasing me to lose a little bit of accuracy...... that extra pound or so in a 3 and half lb head seems to help alot...then 4 and half lbs and up starts getting to heavy tiring me out much faster.... fortunately for me I can use a 3 to 3 and half lb axe one handed of I take breaks..... but normaly don't need to because if I'm in the woods chopping I normaly carry an axe and a hatchet and use the hatchet for my one handed uses
Personally quality wise I would recommend the Basque axes made by hachas jauregi for the European market they're not too expensive and are excellent, really nice thin handles although a bit shorter than most for the same weight head.
Great video. A 27 inch handle is the shortest I'd go unless making kindling. I mainly use my axes for splitting purposes with a chop block. My newest splitting ax is the Husqvarna S2800 with 27.5 inch fiberglass handle, 5 lb head which I know you love, haha! I have that and the Fiskars X27 with a 36 inch fiberglass handle 4 1/4 lb head. The rest of my axes have hickory handles. I'm a hybrid guy after having the Fiskars and Husqvarna splitting axes. My general purpose ax is a 3 1/2 lb single bit with a 32 inch hickory handle. I like Link's hickory handles. Just the general purpose green label is fine with me. I like single and double bit heads. I don't really favor one over the other unless I'm pounding plastic wedges. I don't use the poll as a hammer for nails, tent stakes, etc. That's a big no, no! A lot of people abuse axes in that way. They don't realize the poll is too soft a steel for using steel splitting wedges. I'm not a fan of steel wedges or traditional mauls, they should only be used when that's the only option. Do you still have the maul with the white fiberglass handle?
I definitely don't prefer a 27 for splitting, but I'll use it if it's handy, or if I'm working in the woods. I've learned a lot from splitting with light short axes though. I like my mauls for splitting sawn rounds. I'd prefer around 5 lbs over the common 6 to 8 though.
I enjoy your videos. I am clearing about three acres for a mixed orchard. I found that chopping vines, roots and such that I am constantly cutting into the ground and so opted to go cheap. Yep, I bought a twenty buck axe with a handle the size of a two by four(which is now slimmed down alot with the help of my band saw and beast sander). When it hits the ground I just smile knowing it is not my Council or other axe that has meaning to me.
Lmao the intro was so true... because of you ive been out in the woods collecting free firewood with my new council tool boys axe. And my girlfriend is concerned with my new hobby lol thanks bro!🤘
I can't remember what brand, but small 2.5lb doubles are called cruisers The heads are not uncommon. I'd just find one in good shape and put a handle on it. Most heads are decent, if they were made a while ago.
@@SkillCult thanks man I'm just now really getting into axes and actually learning about them I've got a nice collins boys axe and a jersey style single bit head I tried to put a handle on being my first time and I got the head on too tight for a wedge to go in lol God bless
I got a gransfors scandinavian forest axe as a present and I love that thing. It was well set up to chop, handle is a bit thick but I don't mind since I only use it maybe 1 hour at a time. What do you think of Ochsenkopf axes? I want to get a "sacrificial axe" for splitting axe cut wood.
Great information as usual. I've watched a fair amount of axe videos and your presentation is packed with knowledge and experience. I like axes and have a few, Two of which I found with broken handles while cleaning up my property and the other I purchased when I was 15 (I'm 40 now )and beat the hell out of. I restored all of them but my go to is the stihl I found and installed a bit longer handle. When it comes to chopping I reach for my maul, not as glamorous but as far as effort to work output no axe compares and I found that at a garage sale with no handle for $5 bucks.
I like mauls. I use one mostly when splitting chainsawn rounds in the yard. I have a pile of used maul heads. I actually prefer fiberglass on those, just for the almost indesctructible factor.
I have a friend that finds axe heads around our area. Some are found at 16 inches. These are old. These big one are fat and split awesome. I like a shorter handle. I've refurbished around 30 of these. I do have my favorite 3 for sure. I don't have many axe that are modern. Couple high dollar deals for wedges. Love my axes. Oh and good show man. I split half the wood use for the winter with an axe.
You did this to me years ago, but there are no woods where I live and the frustration is real (correction there are woods everywhere but they are all owned by rich ancestral land owners). Just splitting rounds doesn't scratch the itch.
What a Lovely Skillcult Axe Adventure Steven! I never would have thought I’ve been watching your videos since 2010! Wow, time files! Always great advice based on your experiences, which is always the best teacher. I’ve been working on some Susquehannoux artifact reproductions for a local museum along the Susquehanna River, the namesake of this tribe. I’ll send you some pics soon since I’m using the leather I learned to tan from you. These pieces were in a chest in Sweden collected 400 years ago and the only known artifacts that are not pottery or stone. I’ll give you more details in the near future. Thanks Kindly Steven! Many Blessings and take it easy cuz ya know how ya are! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
@@AnarchAngel1 The Susquehanna River and the land it flows through is truly beautiful! And the area you come from is the same. Years back I strongly considered moving up that way but found the ideal place in Lancaster County. A Very Happy New Year! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
I just picked up a country line boys axe or whatever it's called from TSC for $15. Needs allot of work but I got a real axe now to get it done. Sucks I left my better ones when we lost our house.
What's your opinion on the Hultafors felling axe HY 20 as an alternative to the Husqvarna? I'm looking to replace my dad's old Walters boys axe. Hard to find handles like the Walters. Love the palm swell and tiny handle on the Walters.
Thank you for the video. Looking for my first axe and i’ll be following your recomendation on the Boy’s axe.. I’m 6’3” - Should I see if I can find a 30” one?
30 or 29 would probably be better, but you might adapt to a 28. You might look for a 32" handle that you can shorten down, but it will be a job. They are pretty much all made for larger axe eyes, so you have to whittle down the eye portion to fit a boys axe sized head, and then reshape and thin a lot off the handle. But there is probably usually enough meat and extra wood in the eye area to make it into a 30 inch handle. Not sure, I haven't tried it. You might look at prandi and hultafors in case they make something like that. They have more variety than most american companies. But everything is pretty standardized now and there are not a lot of in between choices like there used to be back in the old days when we weren't alive yet. If I ever design an axe in that size, I'll make sure it's offered in 28" and 30" and maybe even 26"
All Hultafors are made at Hults Bruk. It's the same thing. They market Hultafors in Europe and Hults Bruk in North America. It's all the same company and the same mill. Although it appears the Hultafors do get a different edge profile than the HBs which is interesting.
It all makes sense for beginners, but it could've been a useful note that a fundamental bottleneck for axeteering is adapting (like striking off-hand), and that the axe one choose will influence the strategy one implement. Small things like pointing out that if you do use a long handle, you will need to find a way to exploit the range when bushy, would go a long way to help beginners conceptualize what axe would fit their circumstance (which to a varying degree dictates what "all-round" is), and subsequent preference. I gotta inject comments like these since you already explain so well, and quite apt at adding/removing where improvements can be made (and as we both know, "best" is always superceded by "better"), so I tend to expect you make more sense,, of what I say that makes to you (if that makes any sense 😛) BTW, tip when bucking with long handle: drop the conventional approach, and position yourself instead diagonally (as opposed to perpendicular) to the stem (almost as when felling), and have your legs (note, not feet) do much of the motions. When you poise your axe to the start of the strike, shift your center of gravity towards your rear leg. When you strike, you shift it again towards your front leg (you'll quickly find the baseline/range for back&forth) as you swing. Set your cut at the outer side of your front leg (ie: to the right of right front-leg, or left of left front-leg), and you'll pretty much remove the chance of a nasty glance at your leg. For added effect, kick back a bit (shift center backwards) right before you hit your target. Since you weigh significantly more than the axe-head, a small move will add an appreciable amount of sentrifugal force with very little effort. It can be a bit tricky at first (I don't think it's a beginner-friendly technique), demanding more simultaneous coordination of the body, but once one gets the flow, I find this approach to be very powerful, whilst dissipating a lot of fatigue (or rather dispersing it through your body. As a matter of procedure, it's probably better to use this technique on splitting off finished pieces from the ends of the stem, instead of bucking (if firewood was the goal). Saves lots of cuts, but all the problems you mentioned can become tough nuts whenever one has to divide a stem into manageable pieces, especially in rugged terrain. ,,, dammit, I wish I could convey with one-liners, but axing doesn't cooperate much with words
@@SkillCult th-cam.com/video/hpupQUW-bCw/w-d-xo.html My handle isn't so long that it necessitates this adaptation, and my performance is kinda stiff&awkward. Imagine a slightly longer handle, and bend on the legs (so they do more of the motion), to make a bit more sense of this vid to the comment.
I think it might be a non drying oil. Raw linseed/flax is usually pretty cheap. there are cans of walnut oil even cheaper on amazon usually. Mr. Chickadee just uses canola and other cheap semi drying vegetable oils. That is what I'm trying next time. I got a half gallon of canola at the grocery outlet store for less than a dollar.
@@SkillCult the reason I asked because I already had a gallon of it and I tried jojoba it's a slowly drying (2hrs) but looks really nice (82 iodine content vs 200 for flaxseed) Thank You very much for response I enjoyed all the axe and apple vids.in a week I am gonna ask about canola but 94 percent of canola in USA is gmo so maybe as bad as blo
I took a youtube course and they taught us to figure out what the story of viewers is and speak to that. I know that is a common story lol. Watch my channel long enough and you'll own and axe and start breeding apples he he.
The 1844 Helko Werk Germany Black Forest Woodworker Axe, have you ever had the chance to use one? If so, what did you think about it? I haven't bought it yet but I think this may be the one. I'm looking for a camping, bushcraft, yard work, makes coffee in the morning, type of ax. Lol. So 3 out of 4 isn't that bad. Anyway, I hope you & your loved ones are all doing well. Cya in the next vid.
I have not. It looks huge and expensive. It is pretty much an american pattern along the lines of Dayton. I think a similar hultifors might be cheaper in Europe and over here in the states, there are still millions of dayton heads waiting to be put back on handles.
I grabbed a gransfors bruks small forest axe a few years ago; barely used it till this past year and despise it's small sub 20" handle size and light head. I ended up making the jump from that to a gransfors bruks american felling axe in 35" handle and that makes a man out of you for sure; can chop a 4" thick tree over in 1-2 good swings
Without even seeing the video, my answer is a good 3/4 axe (boy's axe, Hudson's Bay axe, etc...). 2.25# head, 28" min handle, Dayton pattern to start out with (to learn honing & sharpening). Ninja Edit: BOOM! 4 minutes in now and I was right. 😎 My custom axe by Liam Hoffman is a 2.39# Camper's Axe with a 28" handle and it's a dream to wield. I wanted it a little heavier than the standard 2.25# boy's axe. I own the Council Tool's Sports Utility Boy's Axe. I also own the basic (red), the FSS (Forest Service Edition) and their Velvicut Boy's Axe. The Sports Ute is going to be my go-to camp axe. I'm pretty sure it's going to replace my Hudson's Bay (own the Velvicut that's been flawless for me and it's a REAL user). It's just so much better than their standard boy's axe and well worth the extra 10 or 20 bucks. I see them go for $40 to $45 regularly. FYI: Husky's are Hults Bruks axes, just WAY cheaper, but the quality is still there. I own their Carpenter's Axe (Husqvarna) and it's a nice heavy head on a 19" handle. Not my style dimensionally, but geez is that thing sweet to swing and it splits wood nice with one or two hands. Somehow, Husky made it work.
@@russelllieser4226 I like 25 to 27, actually inches. It just makes it an actual axe and not in limbo between an axe and a hatchet. even with small head like the gransfors and husqvarna forest axes, you can still do quite a lot of work. If you invest time with a hatchet though, you can also do a lot of work without packing much weight. I like either my 16 inch hatchet or a 25 to 26 inch handle on a light axe if I have to carry something. Depends on where you live, what you are actually going to do etc. If you are just knocking up a small amount of firewood, a hatchet may be plenty and it's better for light tasks like carving.
Well done video, Steven! I've learned a whole lot about axes and how to use them from your videos. I picked up a red Council Tool Boys Axe a few years back, based on your videos and have been very happy with it. I hope that you're able to keep up the great work as you provide a whole lot of forgotten knowledge that, perhaps, folks won't likely to be able to find 20 years from now. I have a random question for you as I happily noticed it appears that you've pine tarred one of your axe handles: Do you make/harvest your own pine tar? If so, could you make a video of that process?
I'm sure this is going to get me flamed, but the 28" Fiskars chopping axe is a great first axe. Yes, they seems to be prone to the blade chipping if you hit a rock. However, a little time with a stone re-profiling it just a bit into a more traditional concave shape will yield a great axe that works well, doesn't break the bank and has a manufacturer behind it that will fix or replace no questions asked. Part of owning an ax is learning how to sharpen it anyway
Just watched your video on sealing an axe handle, after all the steps are done and the handle is sealed, is it okay to burnish the handle. Just for aesthetics.
you got me into axes. heavily. I think the only other metal object that can offer as much thrill and satisfaction as an axe is one of those funny little bicycles. but do you use a scythe? any thoughts on scythes and mowing grass? I find it very interesting and uplifting.
I have used a scythe a lot, but my snath is too short and my scythe has been atrophied for a few years waiting for me to make a new one. Yeah, it's very satisfying and fun. Not always the best tool for the job, but very often has some advantages over a weed whip.
good stuff Steven. i have been testing heavier heads on the 28'' ,and been lovin' it , as mainly a wood splitter fella, the extra weight out there is welcomed . yer 'best first axe' suggestion, is bang on brother .
Good to hear from you Buckin'! I'm also interested in heavier heads on short handles, but never seem to get around to making them lol. As a generalist who is always. hiking around the woods on foot, I pretty much always grab the same configuration. If I'm going further, or walking more, I might grab the under 2lb head and for long hikes where I might happen to need something, it's the belt hatchet.
I'm going to build a heavy Jersey head on a straight 28" head ala' "Miner's Axe". For camping, they make sense for a longer stay like during a deer camp.
Steven, as far as your analysis about finding oneself watching a long axe 🪓 video and all of a sudden……ouch! Bitten by the axe 🪓 bug 🐞!!! Spot on and my wife is not happy 😃 😊 😆!!!
One of my favorite axes is a 2lb head with a 26 in handle I made from a broken 36"handle. It's always in my truck.
Hey Steve, took your advice and looked for an axe head. Found a Council Tool 2.11 lb head with a broken handle in it for $12. Remove the handle and then went to Ace hardware and found a 28" Boys axe handle for $15.99. I'm in GA. It came with a wood wedge and 2 metal wedges made by, or supplied by Ames to Ace hardware. Hung it together last night per some of your videos and others here on youtube. Took some effort shaving the handle eye part to fit it down tight onto the handle. Was able to get the wedge in, some boiled linseed oil and then wedged it with both types after cutting it down from access. I never thought I could do it but studying your videos I took the time and got it done. I'll sharpen the bit more and take it this weekend to do some cutting on some down tree stuff for some splitting and just give it a go to see if it holds up and up my chopping, splitting skills. I was going to spend major $$$ on a Gransfors but per your guidance, kinda built my own and I am proud of that. Thanks again for your guidance and education on this.
I think you'll be happier w/ your tool you made than somebody else's.
If there are issues you'll learn from them.
I'm in Georgia, 43 miles north of Florida, north of the Okefenokee.
There's still some old-timers around, find one.
Tell him you want to know how they used to do this or that.
If he knows he'll prolly tell you.
Have a GRUEAT day, Neighbor!
@@jons2447 Hey fellow Georgian, you are not fibbing I love my axe. And I mean MY axe. I didn't forge the head nor did I make the handle (not yet) but it's a beaut. And I went to a different farmers market a few weekends back not even looking and I stumbled onto a unmarked eye ridged True Temper Connie, Collins Commander and a Plumb boys axe for $25. Connecticut I haven't done anything with and the Commander I let my brother use/have but the Plumb I haft onto a 25" and sharpened it and use it for splitting. It's a 2lb 3oz head so wicked on trees up to like 10" a round. It's splits well too. It's in the truck. But the Council is a workhorse. The TT Connecticut I think I'll find a 30" or 32" for it. It's a 3lb 7oz head so I'm sure I can chop and split with it. Thanks for the guidance and I'm going to try to get up enough to do a Cordwood challenge one day. Gotta love the axes.
Crushed the intro!
Stephen, you are the TH-cam Axe Godfather! Watching your Cordwood video in 2017 made me switch from a full-size splitting axe to a boy’s axe and start chopping. Presently, during the April-May Covid lockdown, I started my own channel. And I can say that so much of what I learned, and am learning, corresponds directly with your experience as well. 2lbs-3lbs on a 24-28” handle is basically all I’m interested in using anymore. And my handles keep getting thinner and my grinds narrower. Most steels seem to hold up at 18degrees without a secondary bevel, something I’d never have believed if I hadn’t tried it myself. Direct experience is really the only exact knowledge we can attain, accounting of course for mis-perception and preconceived biases. Anyway, thanks again for inspiring me to get out there and start chopping. The Cord Wood Challenge is in good hands with Ben.
Cool. I'll have to check out your stuff. I have tried true 20 degrees a couple times and it's been too thin. I'd have to guess that you are either rounding the end, or measuring under the high points of a rounded bevel. I always measure the actual end cutting edge, but I know a lot of people will call convex bevels narrower than I will. If you can do a dead flat 18 degrees to a perfect edge with no rounding or secondary, and chop in almost anything without rolling or chipping, I'll be impressed!
No, I’m talking chisel grinds. I have added a secondary bevel on some. The oxhead and Council rolls, but the vintage stuff and the HB and Gransfors have held up just fine. I wouldn’t have believed it either until i kept pushing it. I have some on the channel.
@@KevinsDisobedience That is impressive. I might have to go back to experimenting. Now if you can come here and chop through old fir knots with that and dead madrone and not loose a piece of bit... I'll try to check out what you're doing. I don't watch a lot of axe content usually. TH-cam is mostly for uploading and deathmetal videos :D
Ben Scott’s done some work in this direction too. He started running into issues right around 18-19 degrees. Same as me. I’m cutting mostly oak and maple and some Cherry, but yeah hard knots can cause problems no matter what the grind. If you get a chance check a video or two out, but no need. Keep watching the death metal. Lol. I enjoy your content a lot.
My first axe was a 4# True Temper which I bought over 50 years ago. It has gone through several handles, primarily due to overstrikes. It now has a 31.5” does leg handle. I ran over it with a tractor and put a crack in the eye. About 25 years ago. I had it MIG welded and it has performed fine for me, since. I have several Boy’s axes- a 40 year old True Temper, a Council Tools boys axe and a GB Scandinavian Forest axe. I use anyone of the later three as wedge bangers for my chainsaws. I use my Stihl chainsaws for most felling and bucking. I may use an axe for limbing on occasion but mostly I use a chainsaw. I gave my youngest daughter a CT Boys axe. She does not cut trees with it, so it gets mainly root work. Cutting tree roots to plant things in her yard/garden.
I've learned so many things from you about axes and axmanship. You've got the most organized content and clear explanations and the way you sharpen, thin the handles and use those axes is just the way I do it, too. Always eager for the next video :D
Thanks Neagoe!
I am a shorter guy and 24" really works well for me. Been loving the Council Tool woodcraft pack axe. All great info
Definitely one of the most commonly axed questions
Only have one axe . it was my grand fathers . He was killed in 1948 . it is a 2 bit and though i never saw him . His axe was made when things were quality . It has cut off 1000s of chicken ,well poultry heads . We butchered them growing up for people .Kindling and brush . He was Amish and growing up we used a cross cut saw , and it was used to notch the tree . Love my old axe !
Your AXE- INTRO- is the best on TH-cam 👍🇺🇸
Cold steel camp axe head on a 28” handle 2.5lbs. Perfect hiking axe that can take down a full sized tree if need be but light and handy for keeping trails cleared
I think that might be the one that is basically like a hudson's bay pattern. I'm not a big fan of those types. I don't see anything they have with 2.5lb head, they are all light heads under 2lb.
i like that you gave option for the people in Europe at the end. Very thoughtful
Accurate and well presented information. Your experience and recommendations are appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
I found a 2.25lb lakeside head in the shop, put a 28" handle on it, it is great!
Velocity!
You are dead on about the Hudson Bay design. Totally agree.
Your intro had me sold. Not sure what I was buying, but I am sold.
lol
I have had the GFB Scandinavian Forrest Axe for several years. I use it mostly when back country camping. It's longer than the small forest axe and great for me at 6'1". If I can't manage to get material up to a decent height for splitting, I will swing while on my knees. If I were to miss, the axe will bury itself in the ground before it buries itself into my shin. That could he fatal when you're days away from the trailhead.
If I can get material up where I'm comfortable making a proper standing swing, I will still kind of squat on the downstroke. This is so the axe is coming straight down, it helps me use my weight to complete the chop and were I to miss or come straight through, the axe sticks into the stump.
Not my leg.
I'm not a fan of the squat personally, but to each his own. There are other ways to keep that bit away from us, but as you well know, the larger that ratio between your length and the axe length, the more you have to adapt physically to keep the bit away from you. For back country stuff, there is rarely a stump and if I chop and split a lot of wood (unlikely) it will have chisel ends anyway, so laying it up on against a backing log or splitting it with the golf swing style is much more likely. That is very dangerous too, but I'm pretty specific and careful about how I do it, as with all axe work. I find one of the most useful concepts is direction of cut. making sure the bit is not traveling toward us and that it stays that way when encountering all the various physics involved in actual work.
24 inch helko traditional, 2 1/4 lbs head perfectly fits me. Father was a forester and spent most of my youth in the woods. Out side of specialty axes a quality mid sized felling axe is a perfect tool.
I started with forest service boys axe 2.25lb 26in. It was great for the truck, backpack, and forest camping. Use my boys axe mostly for shelter and fire activities. Then, I graduated to an HB Qvarfot 1.9lb 26in forest axe. My first boys axe was $30 and I tuned it. The HB was $200 after shipping and still needs light tuning. I live at 8kft boreal forest.
My current go to axe is a 2.5lb on a 35" straight handle, at 6'4" I like the added length for safety peace of mind.
With the armpit straight arm axe length test It seems as-though I could go down to 30-31"
I'm not a super avid axe user, as I basically only use them well camping and if i'm going to a families backyard fire then I'll usually bring along a hatchet or axe and a batoning knife... gotta take advantage of splitting wood when ever I get the chance.
I only just recently restored the 2.5lb vintage axe head and have only used it a few times so far... definitely prefer the secure/safe feeling the longer handle gives me over a 25-27" axe, but also feel its slightly longer then I really need it to be for a axe thats predominately used for splitting wood and of course any weight one can shave off of there backpack camp load is always great... but even in my brief time using it so far, I've basically came to the conclusion and understanding that with my height, im always gonna prefer a longer handled axe over a lighter shorter one and thats gonna come with a sacrifice in weight savings and packability but its a worthwhile trade off in the end for me personally.
Now its a matter of finding that true goldielocks sweet spot for me personally... I feel 35" is slightly to long 27ish to short, so I'll likely spend some more time testing it out with its current 35" handle a few more times give it, its fair shot since a longer handle axe is still relatively new to me so theres for sure a little adapting to the mechanics of carrying and swinging the longer axe but im pretty sure in the end ill eventually chop it down to 30-31ish...
The few times ive used it, i have experimented with my hand positioning... as in, choking up on the butt end of the axe handle and it does seems to be right around the 30" mark that feels most natural to hold and swing... which again amazingly does correspond quite accurately with the armpit arm length test.
My original thought process of using the 35' handle was that that best matches my leg inseam (34") so with a missed strike Id be most likely to hit ground rather then myself, but it seems the most accurate and ideal axe length test, is infact the armpit test... which makes sense since although you use your entire body in swinging an axe, your arms, hands, and wrists are doing most of the hard labor so it makes sense you'd want the axe generally fine tuned to your bodies arm length/upper body and your personal range of motion.
No doubt longer handles put the head futher away from you when thing go haywire. I definitely prefer a regular long handle for splitting, but with attention and understanding, you use short axes safely enough. At that height, I would guess 30 ish inches would be about right as an equivalent to a 28 inch for most average height guys. Stay safe :)
@@SkillCult Thanks a lot for the response. Yeah, I've got a few hatchets, a standard 25" boys axe and a nice 34" handled double bit, but had nothing in that 28-32" range... so I ended up going for it and I cut it down to 31" almost instantly regretted it because the feel was so drastically different then i had become accustomed to it feeling in hand... but after a few more days of adapting a feel for it, its for sure a vary useful sized axe, that im sure will get many days to shine in the field.
I agree that for those above average height, a 30ish inch handle is basically the sweet spot equivalent to 28ish for most others... when doing the armpit length test its perfect for me and when doing the arm hang test (standing the axe on the ground beside your leg and reaching down to the end knob) the handle lands right around my middle fingers, middle joint... so its for sure proportioned well to me.
The biggest annoyance about cutting the handle down in length is losing the nice palm swell, luckily there seems to be just enough meat left in the handle that I should be able to shape a small swell, just gotta give myself a day to commit to the task.
@@SkillCult Follow up question...
What's your general thoughts on straight handle palm swells, do you consider it a necessity to have palm swells on all axe handles/large swinging tools?
do you find theirs any exception to the rule for straight handles?
like it seems to not be totally uncommon to see a sledge or maul with no palm swell at all.
Again its only a 2.5# single bit... so far it seems fairly wieldable and controllable especially for standard chopping block wood splitting tasks, where your generally striking downward in parallel with the ground, rather then swinging on a more circular axis like when buckin wood.
From my limited research it seems with straight handles many people are content just cutting the end off and leaving the handle with no palm swell...
And id assume that back in the day when handles where much thinner, such a thing wouldve been even more common since if you choose to cut down a handle you likely werent left with much wiggle room for reshaping the handle profile... like we have the "luxury" of doing nowadays with our ultra thick handle standards of modern...
but with that said, back in the day there was also so much more variety in retail replacement handles that it could be plausible... that if you wanted a shorter handle, youd just get the proper size you want and rehang the axe head on it or just flat out purchase the differing size axes youd like, rather then cut the end off of a overly long handle... and maybe even just like today, back then it went both ways depending on the individual themselves and there motivation/skill level... like I assume theres always been the type of folks that would just cut a handle down in length and call it a day, well on the other hand exists the perfectionist that had to complete the task fully and "properly"
Im gonna take on the task no matter what since the handle is slightly thicker then id prefer, so why not reshape a palm swell and thin it out to perfection.
but im still curious to hear your particular thoughts/opinions on straight handles with or without a palm swell... it seems to be one of those grey area's in life, where theres vary mixed opinions on the subject.
I dont typically cut down the handle length after hanging an axe so this is actually my first experience using an axe without a palm swell...
and my conclusion so far has basically become that for a strictly splitting tasked axe, that a palm swell doesnt make or break it... but for other axe tasks like chopping and buckin a palm swell becomes vary important, since your potentially swinging with a bit more force then you would well just splitting wood and of course swinging in a bunch of varying directions, rather then a much more controlled straight up and down motion... but my knowledge and experience is still vary limited.
So curious to see what opinion/conclusion you may have on the subject of straight handle palm swells.
Sorry for such a long winded response, it can be hard to condense ones thoughts, opinions, and questions down to a brief statement/response.
What? OK, your first 30 seconds just perfectly described the last couple weeks of my life. I went from ... why would anyone want to do unnecessary work to get firewood past calling the wood guy to... OMG, axes... this is awesome. This is my new calling. What I have been missing all my life.
And it's all your fault. Thanks for all that.
ha ha. Sorry and you're welcome :) I learned in youtube video school to anticipate the story of the viewer so they feel like content is made for them. I think I nailed it this time lol. Stay safe.
Good to see you doing axe/hatchet videos again. Hope all is well on your homestead!
Great video and just ordered up a nice boy's axe from Council.
You nailed that intro and have given me Tom Sawyer Effect since I found your channel last week. Lol. And I just ordered a new axe for camping and hunting in Alberta Canada. The Gransfors Bruk Scandinavian forest axe. Love your channel and every vid I've watched so far. Amazing channel. I've learnt so much already.
You’ll love it. I recently got one after years of reluctance and it’s all I want to use. Just did a video on it, too. She’s a gorgeously made tool. Still needs some work, but not much.
I’ll make sure to will check out your video!
Awesome, welcome to the channel. Stay safe with that thing!
I am fairly new to Ax work and I am hooked brother. I love it, I bought a couple of different axes recently and one of them that I bought and I really really love is a boy's ax. It's a Colin's ax 2 and 1/4 lb I believe. And man, I do a lot of different things with that. As far as chopping down trees, it's really nice. Love the way it feels. This is a great hobby. A great workout it's very therapeutic, I like your videos by the way
My allagash cruiser was a great investment, now I want a counsel tool to be my beater, the new Hudson Bay looks awesome
Your intros are so true and amazing!!!
That intro has me described backwards...lol. I came for axes and started seeing videos of you eating apples. For a few weeks I thought it was weird...now I myself have Frankentrees and get super giddy when you release apple related videos 😎 But in general if I have a question about something, I usually check your channel first. Thanks for all you've taught me!!
ha ha, well that works too. My real evil master plan is that exact scenario, whatever the hook is.
BTW, new apple video tomorrow :)
@@SkillCult freakin' sweet!
lol steven... thanks for the laughs too along with great info. I'm a gal and swing an ax too!! Well, just to split the wood that's been cut. Guess that'd be a wedge ax?
You go girl! My audience is literally 90% male lol. But mad respect to chicks with axes
@@SkillCult lol, I guess I forgot to mention that I'm now 62 yrs old and still swinging!! ;)) I use one of those maul types...works fine and I like the weight, but you got me wondering if I need to start thinking about using a smaller weighted axe? Guess after all these years, I still got whatever muscles it takes - developed to swing it.
Your intro is hilarious! What's even funnier, it's true. I watched you chopping for too long this week waiting for the weekend to get my chop on!! Tom Sawyer effect. Guess you're Huck Finn?
I know right, that intro was forged from a lot of comments ove the years :) Tom Sawyer effect refers to the part where he has to paint a fence and doesn't want to, but the other kids wandering by think it looks fun, so he ends up trading for all kinds of cool stuff to make the other kids do it.
@@SkillCult Ah yes, I remember that part. I read it over 50 years ago, 10 - 12 years old. My best friend Dave became Tom and I was Huck. Mostly just made rafts, play-camped on river bank, burned stuff, and tried smoking all kinds of vegetation in our cob pipes LOL! Anyway, chopping the past couple months has buffed this old geezer up a bit. Thanks for tricking me into doing even more of it, Tom!
Very nice video, I would love to see more of you rehandling axes ect...
"I would love to see more of you rehandling axes ect..." Stranger things have happened!
As far as wooden handle splitting axes which ones would you recommend? Mauls are difficult for me so splitting axe would be preferred
Great opening. I was laughing 30 seconds in ! Really good vid. Thanks.
really good video for the new woodsman. I totally agree with slimming down the handles and bringing the balance point to the head. Let the axe head do the work not your back.
I don't do many lumber but own only 3 axes.1) GB Scandinavian for deep cuts and overall, good chopper 2) Council Boys axe 2.25 lbs velvicut for a bit more power when splitting. 3) GB Small Forest Axe goes in my truck for 1 hand job here and there, normally I use it as hammer and split on floor mesquite for bbq, nice around the house axe.
Not a lumber or woodman by anymeans. South Texas full of desert so no many trees to fight
Really agree with your take on Trekking axes, couldnt agree more, I have no clue how they've generated such an army of fans. I'm currently looking for my first good "all arounder", which oddly enough is the last size of axe that I need. Here in Canada the Hultafors are more economical that the Council tool axes. Thinking the 1.2kilo felling axe would be my best option, though its a tad heavyer than 2.5 lbs.
I might very well be buying hultafors over council if they were cheaper here. I think over 2.5 is fine. closer to three and I would start to notice it I think. I'm not a fan of handles over 30 inches unless needed for some reason. for all arounders, I'll stick to under 30 inches personally, but a lot of guys are used to a certain thing and can't adapt away from it. It's all good, whatever works.
@@SkillCult I think 1.2kg comes out to roughly 2.75 lbs, and that axe has a 28" handle. I agree with you on the long handles, I've just got big vintage axes because they are plentifull and cheap up here. I've got a 2lb German style head on a 26" handle that I use on canoe/ snowshoe trips, but honestly that axe is not optimal for harvesting dead wood.
Best Intro Narration ever !
And yes, now I own 2 axes......
The most truthful and astute intro ever said
Lots of good points there. I've found myself using a vintage 2 1/4 lb HB I put on a 27" handle lately. Sometimes pairing it up with a small hatchet. Lots of versatility in that combo.
Thats what mors kochanski recommended, almost exactly.
@@ruiz1871 The “great one”!
I got a 2.5lbs wetterlings hudson bay head. Always thought the 23" handle was way too short. This video has inspired me. Gonna whittle down an old 33" handle i got lying around to a 28" fit, should be a good marriage! Thanks for the inspiration. Just gotta run it past the 'ol trouble and strife first. Peace from London
I really don't like handles that short. I think you'll be much happier with a 28". Yeah, trouble and strife, those bastards...
@@SkillCult did you make a video 9n why you went off the hudson bay?
@@pahlavandan3989 Not yet. It's mostly to do with the eye size not being very stable and causing more frequent breaks an loosening. Also, they are just not the most efficient choppers. but you can do fine with one. try it out for a while. if you don't like it, there are lots of people who will buy it from you for enough to buy a pile of good american axe heads lol.
@@SkillCult thanks bro, and thanks for all the content, slice of fried gold!
Excellent and flat information
Thank you
I’m 6’4” and the best way for me to buck or split is to squat down with the swing, adding momentum and making it easier to hit my target and not me!
Was using a what, 32, 35, 36 inch felling ax, can't recall the head weight, pretty heavy, head given to me as a gift, was using it to split on a stump. Can't even recall what happened, glancing blow? I cut a 5 inch gouge into the moist clay soil of my back yard, bit stopped an inch before my toes (inside my shoes). That length literally saved my foot. The clay is harder than my flesh and bones. I can't imagine the wound.
I do agree with the notion of purpose designed and built axes. If you only have one, buy more. :) Even if you have the same weight and same length, you may want a chopper/cutter, you may want one with thicker cheeks for splittin. It's a thing.
Yep, short axes can end up in you more easily.
The two axe's that I use the most are, Cold Steel Trail Boss and a Rinaldi Large Cadore.
Haven't used either of those.
I grew up in the era when children were taught in Boy Scouts to use axes, knives, guns, archery, all the stuff you probably go to jail for these days 😂. Our son was maybe 8 or 9, I get called to school. Very ominous. They tell me the task was to draw a person. So he drew a man in the woods because I’ve always loved backpacking and canoeing. They said draw the man doing something…and they slowly spin this drawing around to me and said “He drew THIS.” The man was holding AN AXE! OMG the horror!!! 😅 I laughed and said he likes chopping wood! We chop wood in the back yard! Some people…. My go-to these days is the Council Tools Camp Carver, 16 inch. I love that thing! I have a Cold Steel Hudson Bay tomahawk and I love it as well, used it until the Camp Carver.
That's sad and hilarious lol.
I built a collins axe 2-1/4 axe head and hickory 28 inch handle and that paired with a plastic wedge splits wood like crazy and chops great after I took the angle back
Nice job hay
I've been pretty happy with my Hults Bruk 3.5 pound 32 inch. I'm a big guy so it fits well. Also, I have a couple options both up and down in size and weight. My go-to bucking limbing axe though.
Do you buck vertical notches in wood 10 inches and down with that? I find it doable, but awkward.
The heel-toe is only 4" and the cheeks have a slight hollow. I've used it comfortably to 6" diameter in the wood lot. Any smaller or if in rocky soil, probably drop to the 28" 2.5-ish. Usually I use a backer log for more stability which might have something to do with it.
I do find that the extra couple of inches seems to find an inordinately larger amount of brush. Probably a math equation out there somewhere. Anyway, not great for cleaning clumps of alder out of the douglas fir.
Another Great Skillcult video filled with axe wisdom on the Cutting Edge, of course. Now I'm charged to go outside and swing me blade. But alas, it's getting dark. Are the fires threatening you or the smoke? Hope not! Half my family lives in Portland. Now they have smoke and fire to deal with on top of the cone head virus 1984. Thanks Kindly Steven for another fine video! I'll soon be completing a project made of my homemade Skillcult leather and I'll be in touch. Peace, Good Health, Perfect Apples and Lovely Women! DaveyJO in Pa.
I have a hults bruk agdor 28 montreal axe that has a 2.5 lbs head. It works well for fellinging and splitting. Knots can be a pain with it though.
Heard lots of good things about that axe.
I remember you mentioning a 3lb head as your favorite. Which is damn near impossible to find. Because of you I hunted for one, and found a beautiful vintage German made one. It's now my favorite.
It's an old Helko Werk axe in great shape.
I did everything you said here and I agree with you.
It took me about (3) decades to learn what you are saying here and I am still learning something new every time I go out.
I hope peeps are listening.
P.S. I still love Hudson Bay, but they are NOT for anyone serious. I take my Hudson Bay when I go backyard camping in case my head comes off. Mine has been loosening but hadn't fallen off, yet. Just waiting for that day so I can properly rehang it.
P.S.S. It puts a smile on my face every time when I call it a Boy's Axe someone picks it up like, "oh, that's cute" and they cut themselves on the sharp bit or take out their shin. I take immense pleasure in the fact that they just survived the most dangerous encounter in their life. Also, they will never underestimate the power of the unpowered tool, ever again.
If the heads lose I would rehang it now. Many men have met their demise from heads coming off of tools. Be safe brother.
This is now my favorite TH-cam channel. 👍👍
Groovy, welcome.
Love the axe content! I have been a hobbyist for a few years and have found so much content on this channel invaluable. Keep it up man!
Thanks Andrew!
For less than a hundred dollars you can get the Hults Bruks Agdor Montreal pattern with 28 inch handle. 2.5 lb. head. One hell of a good axe! Thanks for the video bro!
I hear great things about that axe. Tempted to pick one up.
I've also heard the 2.25 pound 28 inch pole axes called pulpwood axes as they are optimal for smaller trees that would go for pulp, not lumber.
That is what Mason calls them. the northeastern loggers manual says they came to America with french canadians. I'm guessing it was their go to axe already, but that they worked in the pulpwood industry a lot. Might be an interesting history to look into. If you look on my community page on youtube, there;s a post that I did a couple years ago of an account of a guy working alongside a french canadian worker using pretty much this same type of axe. check it out.
I did find your original post pretty funny. INFORMATION IS NOT NECESSARILY KNOWLEDGE - how true.
I actually got a council tool boys axe, the newer sport utility, and was pleasantly surprised with the the quality. I bought the file you recommend in preparation for modifying the bit; I am pleased to report my bit only needed light honing with a trashy puck to achieve a paper cutting edge. I haven't measured the angles of the cutting edge but while playing around with a 16in round I easily notched a significant amount in only a few swings. I've trimmed a little fat off the handle near the eye, as you've recommended in other videos, but the rest of the handle is very slim and feels good in my medium sized hand. I really love this axe, it suits all my current needs and like you've said can be used effectively with one hand. I took a butane torch to add quick character to the handle then covered it in "raw pure" linseed oil and wow, I couldn't be happier with this tool.
On the one I got, I'd definitely remove quite a bit behind the edge for chopping efficiency. But at least it comes near useable. Have fun and stay safe :)
looks like a nice dark color on some of those handles. is that blo? or wadca danish oil? thanks. love to hear your take on burning handles and soaking them.
i have a video on the charring axe handles thing I dont' do it. To me charred wood is compromised wood. It's just age, dirt and plain oil. I have vids on oiling handles too, just prefer raw drying oils.
If there’s 3 things dudes like it’s sticks, sharp things, and hitting stuff 😂 subbed
"Some guy in the woods...." LOL
That would be Bigfoot (aka Darryl).
Here in Australia the hardware stores invariably sell 2 kilogram Tasmanian pattern axes. Realistically you'll be buying a chainsaw and a hydraulic splitter. We broke the handles on 2 splitters and 2 axes on a piece of seasoned yellow box.
Interesting, that is quite heavy. I hear a lot of tales of the brutal hardness and toughness of australian woods. I assume you also have some reasonably easy woods.
@@SkillCult there are, most notably the Australian Red Cedar. Which is a mahogany. Unfortunately due to over harvesting there are few mature examples.
Im in the camp of for my general purpose axe I prefer a slightly heavier head on a short handle....for some reason for me the 3 to 3 and half lb head on a short 28 to 30 inch handle seams to be the best all around for me a light 2 and quarter to 2 and half lb axe makes me want to bring the head speed up chasing me to lose a little bit of accuracy...... that extra pound or so in a 3 and half lb head seems to help alot...then 4 and half lbs and up starts getting to heavy tiring me out much faster.... fortunately for me I can use a 3 to 3 and half lb axe one handed of I take breaks..... but normaly don't need to because if I'm in the woods chopping I normaly carry an axe and a hatchet and use the hatchet for my one handed uses
Personally quality wise I would recommend the Basque axes made by hachas jauregi for the European market they're not too expensive and are excellent, really nice thin handles although a bit shorter than most for the same weight head.
Short handles FTW!
I got the little Biscayne pruning axe my favourite for carving.
Great video. A 27 inch handle is the shortest I'd go unless making kindling. I mainly use my axes for splitting purposes with a chop block. My newest splitting ax is the Husqvarna S2800 with 27.5 inch fiberglass handle, 5 lb head which I know you love, haha! I have that and the Fiskars X27 with a 36 inch fiberglass handle 4 1/4 lb head. The rest of my axes have hickory handles. I'm a hybrid guy after having the Fiskars and Husqvarna splitting axes. My general purpose ax is a 3 1/2 lb single bit with a 32 inch hickory handle. I like Link's hickory handles. Just the general purpose green label is fine with me. I like single and double bit heads. I don't really favor one over the other unless I'm pounding plastic wedges. I don't use the poll as a hammer for nails, tent stakes, etc. That's a big no, no! A lot of people abuse axes in that way. They don't realize the poll is too soft a steel for using steel splitting wedges. I'm not a fan of steel wedges or traditional mauls, they should only be used when that's the only option. Do you still have the maul with the white fiberglass handle?
I definitely don't prefer a 27 for splitting, but I'll use it if it's handy, or if I'm working in the woods. I've learned a lot from splitting with light short axes though. I like my mauls for splitting sawn rounds. I'd prefer around 5 lbs over the common 6 to 8 though.
I enjoy your videos. I am clearing about three acres for a mixed orchard. I found that chopping vines, roots and such that I am constantly cutting into the ground and so opted to go cheap. Yep, I bought a twenty buck axe with a handle the size of a two by four(which is now slimmed down alot with the help of my band saw and beast sander). When it hits the ground I just smile knowing it is not my Council or other axe that has meaning to me.
My favorite is a two-bit axe for this task.
Lmao the intro was so true... because of you ive been out in the woods collecting free firewood with my new council tool boys axe. And my girlfriend is concerned with my new hobby lol thanks bro!🤘
Ha ha, yeah I heard that story enough that I knew it would hit home with a few people. stay safe 🤘
Was that double bit a cruiser? What brand was it? Looking for a good double bit axe that isn't a arm and a leg lol. God bless
I can't remember what brand, but small 2.5lb doubles are called cruisers The heads are not uncommon. I'd just find one in good shape and put a handle on it. Most heads are decent, if they were made a while ago.
@@SkillCult thanks man I'm just now really getting into axes and actually learning about them I've got a nice collins boys axe and a jersey style single bit head I tried to put a handle on being my first time and I got the head on too tight for a wedge to go in lol God bless
I got a gransfors scandinavian forest axe as a present and I love that thing. It was well set up to chop, handle is a bit thick but I don't mind since I only use it maybe 1 hour at a time. What do you think of Ochsenkopf axes? I want to get a "sacrificial axe" for splitting axe cut wood.
I think of ochsenkpf as very thin bits, so that's not great for splitting. I would just put a handle on a used 3.5.lb double or single bit.
Great information as usual. I've watched a fair amount of axe videos and your presentation is packed with knowledge and experience. I like axes and have a few, Two of which I found with broken handles while cleaning up my property and the other I purchased when I was 15 (I'm 40 now )and beat the hell out of. I restored all of them but my go to is the stihl I found and installed a bit longer handle. When it comes to chopping I reach for my maul, not as glamorous but as far as effort to work output no axe compares and I found that at a garage sale with no handle for $5 bucks.
I like mauls. I use one mostly when splitting chainsawn rounds in the yard. I have a pile of used maul heads. I actually prefer fiberglass on those, just for the almost indesctructible factor.
HB makes a nice 2.5 lbs Montreal pattern in their Agdor line. Used to only be available in Canada, heard they were going to sell them in USA.
Thanks, that axe looks pretty cool.
@@SkillCult personally think the 2.5lb montreals are some of the best boys axes available
@@elemental4rce Cool. I don't think they are very available or cheap here. Similar to Ben Scott's favorite engilsh axe too it looks like.
Thorough explanation, thanks!
I wish this video would have happened 2 years ago😂
Steven ,, I admire your style and knowledge !!! You are a no bullshit straight to the point guy I enj Your Vedeos very much keep up the good work body
I have a friend that finds axe heads around our area. Some are found at 16 inches. These are old. These big one are fat and split awesome. I like a shorter handle. I've refurbished around 30 of these. I do have my favorite 3 for sure. I don't have many axe that are modern. Couple high dollar deals for wedges. Love my axes.
Oh and good show man.
I split half the wood use for the winter with an axe.
Cool friend to have!
You did this to me years ago, but there are no woods where I live and the frustration is real (correction there are woods everywhere but they are all owned by rich ancestral land owners). Just splitting rounds doesn't scratch the itch.
Well, sorry :/ There are probably woods in your future!
What a Lovely Skillcult Axe Adventure Steven! I never would have thought I’ve been watching your videos since 2010! Wow, time files! Always great advice based on your experiences, which is always the best teacher. I’ve been working on some Susquehannoux artifact reproductions for a local museum along the Susquehanna River, the namesake of this tribe. I’ll send you some pics soon since I’m using the leather I learned to tan from you. These pieces were in a chest in Sweden collected 400 years ago and the only known artifacts that are not pottery or stone. I’ll give you more details in the near future. Thanks Kindly Steven! Many Blessings and take it easy cuz ya know how ya are! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
I come from Bloomsburg right along the Susquehanna 👍
@@AnarchAngel1 The Susquehanna River and the land it flows through is truly beautiful! And the area you come from is the same. Years back I strongly considered moving up that way but found the ideal place in Lancaster County. A Very Happy New Year! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
I just picked up a country line boys axe or whatever it's called from TSC for $15.
Needs allot of work but I got a real axe now to get it done. Sucks I left my better ones when we lost our house.
Great video on axes. What makes a $50 axe or a $150 axe?.
finish, name, I don't know, not enough lol.
What's your opinion on the Hultafors felling axe HY 20 as an alternative to the Husqvarna? I'm looking to replace my dad's old Walters boys axe. Hard to find handles like the Walters. Love the palm swell and tiny handle on the Walters.
Great and informative stuff as always. Stay safe
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't Boy's Axe also called Cruiser or Cruises??? Is that brand specific???
That is usually used for the small, short double bit axes like the one I showed. Used by timber cruisers on surveys.
@@SkillCult Thank you. 😊
Thank you for the video. Looking for my first axe and i’ll be following your recomendation on the Boy’s axe..
I’m 6’3” - Should I see if I can find a 30” one?
30 or 29 would probably be better, but you might adapt to a 28. You might look for a 32" handle that you can shorten down, but it will be a job. They are pretty much all made for larger axe eyes, so you have to whittle down the eye portion to fit a boys axe sized head, and then reshape and thin a lot off the handle. But there is probably usually enough meat and extra wood in the eye area to make it into a 30 inch handle. Not sure, I haven't tried it. You might look at prandi and hultafors in case they make something like that. They have more variety than most american companies. But everything is pretty standardized now and there are not a lot of in between choices like there used to be back in the old days when we weren't alive yet. If I ever design an axe in that size, I'll make sure it's offered in 28" and 30" and maybe even 26"
All Hultafors are made at Hults Bruk. It's the same thing. They market Hultafors in Europe and Hults Bruk in North America. It's all the same company and the same mill. Although it appears the Hultafors do get a different edge profile than the HBs which is interesting.
It all makes sense for beginners, but it could've been a useful note that a fundamental bottleneck for axeteering is adapting (like striking off-hand), and that the axe one choose will influence the strategy one implement.
Small things like pointing out that if you do use a long handle, you will need to find a way to exploit the range when bushy, would go a long way to help beginners conceptualize what axe would fit their circumstance (which to a varying degree dictates what "all-round" is), and subsequent preference.
I gotta inject comments like these since you already explain so well, and quite apt at adding/removing where improvements can be made (and as we both know, "best" is always superceded by "better"), so I tend to expect you make more sense,, of what I say that makes to you (if that makes any sense 😛)
BTW, tip when bucking with long handle: drop the conventional approach, and position yourself instead diagonally (as opposed to perpendicular) to the stem (almost as when felling), and have your legs (note, not feet) do much of the motions.
When you poise your axe to the start of the strike, shift your center of gravity towards your rear leg.
When you strike, you shift it again towards your front leg (you'll quickly find the baseline/range for back&forth) as you swing. Set your cut at the outer side of your front leg (ie: to the right of right front-leg, or left of left front-leg), and you'll pretty much remove the chance of a nasty glance at your leg.
For added effect, kick back a bit (shift center backwards) right before you hit your target. Since you weigh significantly more than the axe-head, a small move will add an appreciable amount of sentrifugal force with very little effort.
It can be a bit tricky at first (I don't think it's a beginner-friendly technique), demanding more simultaneous coordination of the body, but once one gets the flow, I find this approach to be very powerful, whilst dissipating a lot of fatigue (or rather dispersing it through your body.
As a matter of procedure, it's probably better to use this technique on splitting off finished pieces from the ends of the stem, instead of bucking (if firewood was the goal). Saves lots of cuts, but all the problems you mentioned can become tough nuts whenever one has to divide a stem into manageable pieces, especially in rugged terrain.
,,, dammit, I wish I could convey with one-liners, but axing doesn't cooperate much with words
axeteering, I like that. I think I'd have to see what you are trying to describe. a video is worth a million words....
@@SkillCult th-cam.com/video/hpupQUW-bCw/w-d-xo.html My handle isn't so long that it necessitates this adaptation, and my performance is kinda stiff&awkward. Imagine a slightly longer handle, and bend on the legs (so they do more of the motion), to make a bit more sense of this vid to the comment.
Good stuff I enjoyed that
Great vid as always! What do You think about jojoba oil for axe handle?
I think it might be a non drying oil. Raw linseed/flax is usually pretty cheap. there are cans of walnut oil even cheaper on amazon usually. Mr. Chickadee just uses canola and other cheap semi drying vegetable oils. That is what I'm trying next time. I got a half gallon of canola at the grocery outlet store for less than a dollar.
@@SkillCult the reason I asked because I already had a gallon of it and I tried jojoba it's a slowly drying (2hrs) but looks really nice (82 iodine content vs 200 for flaxseed) Thank You very much for response I enjoyed all the axe and apple vids.in a week I am gonna ask about canola but 94 percent of canola in USA is gmo so maybe as bad as blo
This intro is hilarious 🤘😂
I took a youtube course and they taught us to figure out what the story of viewers is and speak to that. I know that is a common story lol. Watch my channel long enough and you'll own and axe and start breeding apples he he.
Hell yeah subbed!!
Great video thanks for the info.
The 1844 Helko Werk Germany Black Forest Woodworker Axe, have you ever had the chance to use one? If so, what did you think about it? I haven't bought it yet but I think this may be the one. I'm looking for a camping, bushcraft, yard work, makes coffee in the morning, type of ax. Lol. So 3 out of 4 isn't that bad. Anyway, I hope you & your loved ones are all doing well. Cya in the next vid.
I have not. It looks huge and expensive. It is pretty much an american pattern along the lines of Dayton. I think a similar hultifors might be cheaper in Europe and over here in the states, there are still millions of dayton heads waiting to be put back on handles.
I grabbed a gransfors bruks small forest axe a few years ago; barely used it till this past year and despise it's small sub 20" handle size and light head. I ended up making the jump from that to a gransfors bruks american felling axe in 35" handle and that makes a man out of you for sure; can chop a 4" thick tree over in 1-2 good swings
Thanks 🙏
Without even seeing the video, my answer is a good 3/4 axe (boy's axe, Hudson's Bay axe, etc...). 2.25# head, 28" min handle, Dayton pattern to start out with (to learn honing & sharpening). Ninja Edit: BOOM! 4 minutes in now and I was right. 😎 My custom axe by Liam Hoffman is a 2.39# Camper's Axe with a 28" handle and it's a dream to wield. I wanted it a little heavier than the standard 2.25# boy's axe.
I own the Council Tool's Sports Utility Boy's Axe. I also own the basic (red), the FSS (Forest Service Edition) and their Velvicut Boy's Axe. The Sports Ute is going to be my go-to camp axe. I'm pretty sure it's going to replace my Hudson's Bay (own the Velvicut that's been flawless for me and it's a REAL user). It's just so much better than their standard boy's axe and well worth the extra 10 or 20 bucks. I see them go for $40 to $45 regularly.
FYI: Husky's are Hults Bruks axes, just WAY cheaper, but the quality is still there. I own their Carpenter's Axe (Husqvarna) and it's a nice heavy head on a 19" handle. Not my style dimensionally, but geez is that thing sweet to swing and it splits wood nice with one or two hands. Somehow, Husky made it work.
I wish husky would pick up the boys axe in their line, then they would be more affordable in the states. 3/4 axes ftw :)
My first axe was an 8lbs splitting maul I used to split firewood when I moved on my own. Still have it
Looking for a 19in long axe. Recommendations?
Im not a fan of that size, so I don't really know what's out there.
I like the pack ability of the size. Would I be better at 24in?
@@russelllieser4226 I like 25 to 27, actually inches. It just makes it an actual axe and not in limbo between an axe and a hatchet. even with small head like the gransfors and husqvarna forest axes, you can still do quite a lot of work. If you invest time with a hatchet though, you can also do a lot of work without packing much weight. I like either my 16 inch hatchet or a 25 to 26 inch handle on a light axe if I have to carry something. Depends on where you live, what you are actually going to do etc. If you are just knocking up a small amount of firewood, a hatchet may be plenty and it's better for light tasks like carving.
Well done video, Steven! I've learned a whole lot about axes and how to use them from your videos. I picked up a red Council Tool Boys Axe a few years back, based on your videos and have been very happy with it. I hope that you're able to keep up the great work as you provide a whole lot of forgotten knowledge that, perhaps, folks won't likely to be able to find 20 years from now. I have a random question for you as I happily noticed it appears that you've pine tarred one of your axe handles: Do you make/harvest your own pine tar? If so, could you make a video of that process?
I didn't. Might be just accumulated tar from fir trees. Our firs are very pitchy here and I don't clean it off. I just like raw linseed/flax oil.
Great vid!
I'm sure this is going to get me flamed, but the 28" Fiskars chopping axe is a great first axe. Yes, they seems to be prone to the blade chipping if you hit a rock. However, a little time with a stone re-profiling it just a bit into a more traditional concave shape will yield a great axe that works well, doesn't break the bank and has a manufacturer behind it that will fix or replace no questions asked.
Part of owning an ax is learning how to sharpen it anyway
U cannot beat fiskars/gerber for bang for the buck. Period.
Just watched your video on sealing an axe handle, after all the steps are done and the handle is sealed, is it okay to burnish the handle. Just for aesthetics.
I don't really see why not. I dont' recall if I've done that or not. Not sure if the oil will help or inhibit burnishing.
Your video on sealing axe handles very much describes the way old Norwegian lumberjacks did it in my area.
Keep up the good work 👍
you got me into axes. heavily. I think the only other metal object that can offer as much thrill and satisfaction as an axe is one of those funny little bicycles. but do you use a scythe? any thoughts on scythes and mowing grass? I find it very interesting and uplifting.
I have used a scythe a lot, but my snath is too short and my scythe has been atrophied for a few years waiting for me to make a new one. Yeah, it's very satisfying and fun. Not always the best tool for the job, but very often has some advantages over a weed whip.