I'm surprised nobody is talking about this, every time i used it the car would drive off to whatever side i turn but stay locked to that side for a delayed amount of time. The fully upgraded tune helped a small bit but it still for some reason has a mind of its own 🤔
Most cars are still quite squirrelly under braking since this update. There isn't much of a way to fix it other than adjusting how you drive. Even my set-up still has issues with braking on big compressions like at the Nordschleife so it may help to raise the front end another 10mm if you still have trouble with it
@@fossilfueled27 switching from hards to softs did for the most part fix it along with switching up how i was driving, might try raising the front end like you said though
Same here, I was wondering what da fuck is going on. I thought my DDR Pro was glitching or that the update caused all this. The M3 was undrivable. Finally, a video to explain what is wrong with the car. Thank you FF.
@@JohnCranberry23 I heard it's a apparently happening with some other cars that existed pre psychics update as well. Hopefully the same settings in the vid fixes those cars too tho
i tried to keep my e36 as stock as possilbe so I bought the body rigidity upgrade and the customizable suspension, raised the ride height to 105mm front and 108mm rear and deleted the toe in the rear, that already helped
I find it at its worst in the dips on the Nordschleife. The only way I’ve been able to rectify it so far is by uninstalling wider offset wheels. Rim size made no difference as the wheel plus tyre diameter always stays the same.
Well done. The C6 Corvette ZR1 has the same issue and it's been around since long before the update. I tried to drive the LS7 swapped upgraded M3 without adjusting the suspension and it was un driveable, raised the ride height a little stiffened the suspension and it became much better.
Lots of 90% (RWD) my cars tuned widebody with wide whells have this problem. 😢. I fixed it set suspension higher and stabilisers set harder (to 8,9,10). I'm shure this is some mistake. They need fix it.
Thanks for the video! Finally sorted my M3. Just to add, the wheels don't get larger with larger rims, the circumference is always the same. Just more or less rubber.
THANK YOU!! I has having so much trouble under braking that I thought the game physics were off. I really appreciate this breakdown and it makes me appreciate the game much more too that they considered this level of dynamics
If it's possible for the wheels or tires to physically contact the car's body, it should be communicated to players if/when it's happening. Sounds, vibrations, and maybe even puffs of smoke whenever a tire clips into the wheelwell would go a LONG way. As it is, the average player doesn't even know it's a possibility. I certainly didn't, and I've played GT since the beginning.
Exactly. They allow you to put a nice wide wheel and tire on the car but it won’t turn unless you have it jacked up like a monster truck. Pathetic issue that shouldn’t exist.
An obvious grinding noise would have helped massively. Previous games didn't model arch rub. Wheels would just clip through arches on slammed cars/ It definitely caught me out early on in GT7.
@@fossilfueled27 there just shouldn’t be a rubbing issue at all. Most bmw’s I’ve seen at nurburgring in real life are lowered with coilovers and they don’t have issues. Maybe they need to make “rolled fenders” for 50k credits lol
@@FalconPunch1978 There are plenty of slammed BMWs that can rub the arches though. My set-up is much lower than stock in GT7, and much like real life, the suspension is stiffened to reduce travel so the wheels don't rub the arches. Fitting a widebody is basically an extreme version of rolling the fenders, but we all cancelled it out in the game by fitting much wider tyres with a wide offset. If you lowered an E36 in real life and shoved some 275-section tyres on it with 30mm spacers to offset them even further outwards (which is pretty much what happens in GT7 with a widebody and a change of wheels), rolled arches wouldn't do much to prevent arch rub. I agree there's some big problems with the physics in the new update, but arch rub isn't one of them, because it's always existed in the game, on plenty of other cars. They just happened to not be as popular as the E36.
I haven’t had the wheel arch problem but wanted to watch the video to learn something/anything. I don’t tune any of my road cars at absolute lowest ride height. They “feel” better when there’s a little room for body lean. I’ve been running higher front aero than rear 🤔. I’m going to try reversing it.
I love it's quirks 😅 it's a fun car to learn to drift the engine swap is the best for drifting. Spring rates are an important measure along with the damper ratings.
@@ralphharrison6622 yeah i know i just put 200 miles on a eg6 civic trying to dial it in to what i think is good the update changed it alot from when it came out
@@robzeerotaryplug906 i went back to some older builds i had, and some def behave differently. my og celica gtfour was not dialed in like it was a year ago.
I was kicked from a server for immediately crashing going out from the pit. Tested out the car a bit and saw how comically the car swayed side to side and bottom-out in a instant. Think they messed up the settings for the custom suspension.
Big wheels make the car susceptible to sliding easier as there is less rubber I run stock or smaller for high HP builds and larger wide wheels for drift builds. You should have multiple choices I'm currently at 6 or 7 E36 M3s 3 E46 and 2 of the newest M3 they have in the game.
Very annoying. Even my totally bone stock M3 is undriveable. I had hoped with the 1.50 patch they’d have addressed this and I hope they still will in the next update. We did have this very issue with the Ford Sierra when it was added and they fixed that. For now my M3 is gathering dust until this is resolved.
GT could have made MORE CLEAR when the wheel hit the arches.... i remember when i first bought the game, tuned a car and suddenly wasn't "responding" to my imputs. it took WEEKS to figure out what the problem was. just a "acustic" feedback, or a vibration on the gamepad would have helped.
Since the 36 is older car that was sold from the factory with 235/40/17 as the wheel package. Could it simply be that GT7s default tire is simply just too large? In the game you can change wheel sizes, but the tire diameter doesn’t change, its aspect ratio just compensates to maintain a specific size. I own the car (328i), and irl 18”s are the largest I can realistically have, and I have to be careful of the tire wall size so I don’t rub. The 328i stock wheel is 17”. Perhaps the core issue is GT7s tire diameter
I'm adamant this car is broken. I've tried so many set ups and have got it to a point where mostly-flat tracks are fine. But a 600pp set up lap on the nurburg without crashing is still impossible unless you slow very down on high compression sections. Where my similar set up E92 M3 is brilliant around the nurburgring.
It's definitely worse than most other cars. I tried my 600pp tune at nurburgring and found that setting ride height to 115, anti roll bars to 8 and natural frequency to 2.20 or higher was enough to stop the weird steering on compressions.
Unrelated to the car’s physics but at 2:05 could you tell me how you painted the car white and kept the exterior trim black still? I’ve been trying to figure it out and messing with the livery editor and auto shop or whatever and can’t figure it out still lol
I don't it's the physics or the car...I think people are just used to ease of everything been done for them. Why do you think master tuners aren't seen complaining
The Gallardo has its own issues that can't be fixed too. Once it's fully upgraded to 1000hp, the acceleration causes some glitchy bouncing when accelerating in a straight line. The only fix that I know of is to run less power. Hopefully they're working on an update to fix it.
The fact this happens on some cars and not others is r3t4rd3d. I have to have the car jacked up like a monster truck to drive it? Lame, fix your game pd.
The only thing I want for the BMW E36 M3 is the engine swap because the LS7 BRZ engine swap is built for drifting but the best engine swap for the E36 M3 at the race track is the S54 engine which comes from the E46 M3 because the engine is more suitable engine swap for the e36 m3 than the LS7 engine.
The LS7 works pretty well on a track, too. There isn't much arguing with 1000hp and a wide spread of torque. The E46 engine only gets another 10hp over the E36 once tuned anyway, so it would be a bit pointless - you may as well keep the standard engine at that point.
this game's tuning is so crappy that it makes you guess about parameters it calculates for but doesnt show you. i wish it had the pause menu tuning you had on forza, this is just annoying, trying to tune, testing and then having to leave the track and go back to the garage to try and fix it blind. disclaimer: hated the game so much i havent played it in about a year, thing might have changed, but i just gave up on this turd
@@fossilfueled27 that hud is super annoying. it's an all or nothing thing, no way to just leave the speedo and lap/pos and take away everything else, or at least take away that opponent list. the tach is just awfull, and if i want a regular tach, i need to go into cockpit view and the hud is still there over it. then there´s the lack of tire preasure or tire temperature, wich is calculated but not shown, which doesnt let you see what part of the tire is getting hot to let you know there´s an alignment problem... this is just stupid. But i could live with it and go by feel, if i could do changes on the fly while pausing during a test run, but noooo, i need to exit the run, go tru a bunch of loading screens, tune it again and go back and hope i still have an accurate notion of how it felt before. the game looks and sounds great, the handling is nice enough, but the "usability" of the mechanics in the game is just god awfull
I was kicked from a server for immediately crashing going out from the pit. Tested out the car a bit and saw how comically the car swayed side to side and bottom-out in a instant. Think they messed up the settings for the custom suspension.
I'm surprised nobody is talking about this, every time i used it the car would drive off to whatever side i turn but stay locked to that side for a delayed amount of time. The fully upgraded tune helped a small bit but it still for some reason has a mind of its own 🤔
Most cars are still quite squirrelly under braking since this update. There isn't much of a way to fix it other than adjusting how you drive. Even my set-up still has issues with braking on big compressions like at the Nordschleife so it may help to raise the front end another 10mm if you still have trouble with it
@@fossilfueled27 switching from hards to softs did for the most part fix it along with switching up how i was driving, might try raising the front end like you said though
Same here, I was wondering what da fuck is going on. I thought my DDR Pro was glitching or that the update caused all this. The M3 was undrivable. Finally, a video to explain what is wrong with the car. Thank you FF.
@@JohnCranberry23 I heard it's a apparently happening with some other cars that existed pre psychics update as well. Hopefully the same settings in the vid fixes those cars too tho
This 97' M3 was driving me crazy. The second the game let me take control it put me into the wall. It was so bad i thought my controller was broken!
I don’t think the car is broken I think the overall physics are just scuffed.
i tried to keep my e36 as stock as possilbe so I bought the body rigidity upgrade and the customizable suspension, raised the ride height to 105mm front and 108mm rear and deleted the toe in the rear, that already helped
I find it at its worst in the dips on the Nordschleife. The only way I’ve been able to rectify it so far is by uninstalling wider offset wheels. Rim size made no difference as the wheel plus tyre diameter always stays the same.
That's good, thank you
Well done. The C6 Corvette ZR1 has the same issue and it's been around since long before the update. I tried to drive the LS7 swapped upgraded M3 without adjusting the suspension and it was un driveable, raised the ride height a little stiffened the suspension and it became much better.
There's quite a few cars that have this issue. The Beetle and Shelby GT350 are some of the worst offenders.
Lots of 90% (RWD) my cars tuned widebody with wide whells have this problem. 😢. I fixed it set suspension higher and stabilisers set harder (to 8,9,10). I'm shure this is some mistake. They need fix it.
Thanks for the video! Finally sorted my M3. Just to add, the wheels don't get larger with larger rims, the circumference is always the same. Just more or less rubber.
THANK YOU!! I has having so much trouble under braking that I thought the game physics were off. I really appreciate this breakdown and it makes me appreciate the game much more too that they considered this level of dynamics
Thank you so much! Finally I can enjoy this car!
Great video, loved the humour!
Physics are so bad people need tutorials. So fun!
If it's possible for the wheels or tires to physically contact the car's body, it should be communicated to players if/when it's happening. Sounds, vibrations, and maybe even puffs of smoke whenever a tire clips into the wheelwell would go a LONG way. As it is, the average player doesn't even know it's a possibility. I certainly didn't, and I've played GT since the beginning.
Exactly. They allow you to put a nice wide wheel and tire on the car but it won’t turn unless you have it jacked up like a monster truck. Pathetic issue that shouldn’t exist.
An obvious grinding noise would have helped massively. Previous games didn't model arch rub. Wheels would just clip through arches on slammed cars/ It definitely caught me out early on in GT7.
@@fossilfueled27 there just shouldn’t be a rubbing issue at all. Most bmw’s I’ve seen at nurburgring in real life are lowered with coilovers and they don’t have issues. Maybe they need to make “rolled fenders” for 50k credits lol
@@FalconPunch1978 There are plenty of slammed BMWs that can rub the arches though. My set-up is much lower than stock in GT7, and much like real life, the suspension is stiffened to reduce travel so the wheels don't rub the arches. Fitting a widebody is basically an extreme version of rolling the fenders, but we all cancelled it out in the game by fitting much wider tyres with a wide offset. If you lowered an E36 in real life and shoved some 275-section tyres on it with 30mm spacers to offset them even further outwards (which is pretty much what happens in GT7 with a widebody and a change of wheels), rolled arches wouldn't do much to prevent arch rub.
I agree there's some big problems with the physics in the new update, but arch rub isn't one of them, because it's always existed in the game, on plenty of other cars. They just happened to not be as popular as the E36.
@@fossilfueled27 making excuses for a glitch that shouldn't exist. I've raced in real life for years and graduated from uti with honors. Thanks.
legend mate. thanks for the video 👍🏻
Great video!! Im curious how many people didnt know about the wheel arch steering lock.
I haven’t had the wheel arch problem but wanted to watch the video to learn something/anything. I don’t tune any of my road cars at absolute lowest ride height. They “feel” better when there’s a little room for body lean. I’ve been running higher front aero than rear 🤔. I’m going to try reversing it.
I love it's quirks 😅 it's a fun car to learn to drift the engine swap is the best for drifting. Spring rates are an important measure along with the damper ratings.
It took me by surprise too. I made a few adjustments similar to what you mentioned and the car seems ok 😂
Thank you, you are a god.
This helped me a lot thank you. Now if only I could apply it to the engine swapped 911 turbo. I’m certain that thing is broken beyond repair.
Is that the old 930? I forgot it had an engine swap. I'll give it a try today and get back to you.
if your cars suffer from wheel arch contact, lift your ride height.
But it looks so good dumped on the lowest setting 😢
@@robzeerotaryplug906 thats fine for car shows, but when your racing, and hit those twisties, being able to steer helps alot!
@@ralphharrison6622 yeah i know i just put 200 miles on a eg6 civic trying to dial it in to what i think is good the update changed it alot from when it came out
@@robzeerotaryplug906 i went back to some older builds i had, and some def behave differently. my og celica gtfour was not dialed in like it was a year ago.
@@ralphharrison6622 gt four was a monster before i wonder how it handles now makes me wonder how drag tunes were effected too
Thank you!
I was kicked from a server for immediately crashing going out from the pit. Tested out the car a bit and saw how comically the car swayed side to side and bottom-out in a instant. Think they messed up the settings for the custom suspension.
Big wheels make the car susceptible to sliding easier as there is less rubber I run stock or smaller for high HP builds and larger wide wheels for drift builds. You should have multiple choices I'm currently at 6 or 7 E36 M3s 3 E46 and 2 of the newest M3 they have in the game.
Pleeeeaaaasssseee do a Tame The Beast video on the 180sx R35 Nismo swap!!! Much needed!!
thank you good settings
Very annoying. Even my totally bone stock M3 is undriveable. I had hoped with the 1.50 patch they’d have addressed this and I hope they still will in the next update. We did have this very issue with the Ford Sierra when it was added and they fixed that. For now my M3 is gathering dust until this is resolved.
GT could have made MORE CLEAR when the wheel hit the arches.... i remember when i first bought the game, tuned a car and suddenly wasn't "responding" to my imputs. it took WEEKS to figure out what the problem was.
just a "acustic" feedback, or a vibration on the gamepad would have helped.
Since the 36 is older car that was sold from the factory with 235/40/17 as the wheel package. Could it simply be that GT7s default tire is simply just too large? In the game you can change wheel sizes, but the tire diameter doesn’t change, its aspect ratio just compensates to maintain a specific size.
I own the car (328i), and irl 18”s are the largest I can realistically have, and I have to be careful of the tire wall size so I don’t rub. The 328i stock wheel is 17”. Perhaps the core issue is GT7s tire diameter
Oops, I meant to say non-m e36 wheels are 16” factory not 17”
I'm adamant this car is broken. I've tried so many set ups and have got it to a point where mostly-flat tracks are fine. But a 600pp set up lap on the nurburg without crashing is still impossible unless you slow very down on high compression sections. Where my similar set up E92 M3 is brilliant around the nurburgring.
It's definitely worse than most other cars. I tried my 600pp tune at nurburgring and found that setting ride height to 115, anti roll bars to 8 and natural frequency to 2.20 or higher was enough to stop the weird steering on compressions.
Unrelated to the car’s physics but at 2:05 could you tell me how you painted the car white and kept the exterior trim black still? I’ve been trying to figure it out and messing with the livery editor and auto shop or whatever and can’t figure it out still lol
Pretty sure you can paint the trim separately in the 'other' section when painting the whole car.
@@fossilfueled27 Ngl I don’t see the “other” option when I paint the whole car
Nvm I found it thanks bro
@@ps4fanboi515After you paint the hole car you got more options to paint seperate stuff.
Anyone had a chance to test it since this mornings fix??
broken in the fact that it’s been in the shop for like a month istg ive seen the 7th gen evo 40 times and the first gen NSX 70 times
Why can’t I find the car now
It's on a cycle, so it's not always available in the used car dealer. It should appear again in the next month, hopefully sooner.
@@fossilfueled27still Not their
I don't it's the physics or the car...I think people are just used to ease of everything been done for them.
Why do you think master tuners aren't seen complaining
Many of them did when the new physics were added because they had to re-tune all the cars they spent the last year or so tweaking.
so that's what was happening with my Gallardo
The Gallardo has its own issues that can't be fixed too. Once it's fully upgraded to 1000hp, the acceleration causes some glitchy bouncing when accelerating in a straight line. The only fix that I know of is to run less power. Hopefully they're working on an update to fix it.
@@fossilfueled27 yeah sometimes when i would try to turn the car would simply not turn and braking caused it to slide around
@@GiantKing20 The braking oversteer is an issue with a lot of 4WD. If you increase braking sensitivity on the customisable LSD settings, it can help
I haven’t had any issues with my Gallardo, in fact it drives great, I’ve been enjoying it 🤔
@@fossilfueled27front or rear?
The m3 steering feels verry light
The fact this happens on some cars and not others is r3t4rd3d. I have to have the car jacked up like a monster truck to drive it? Lame, fix your game pd.
The only thing I want for the BMW E36 M3 is the engine swap because the LS7 BRZ engine swap is built for drifting but the best engine swap for the E36 M3 at the race track is the S54 engine which comes from the E46 M3 because the engine is more suitable engine swap for the e36 m3 than the LS7 engine.
The LS7 works pretty well on a track, too. There isn't much arguing with 1000hp and a wide spread of torque. The E46 engine only gets another 10hp over the E36 once tuned anyway, so it would be a bit pointless - you may as well keep the standard engine at that point.
@@fossilfueled27 Thank you!
Might as well just V8 swap it at that point, the E46 I6 is barely any better than the E36's standard engine.
I’m not a fan of the physics model grand theft auto fell more connected than gran turismo dose now
this game's tuning is so crappy that it makes you guess about parameters it calculates for but doesnt show you. i wish it had the pause menu tuning you had on forza, this is just annoying, trying to tune, testing and then having to leave the track and go back to the garage to try and fix it blind. disclaimer: hated the game so much i havent played it in about a year, thing might have changed, but i just gave up on this turd
If you haven't played in a year and hate the game, I'm curious - why are you watching videos about it?
@@fossilfueled27 one, know if there's a new car i wanna try, two, figure out if it got any better. 3, waiting for them to change that god awfull HUD
@@andrecascais I doubt the tuning system or HUD will ever change, I'm afraid. It's been pretty similar to this since GT5.
@@fossilfueled27 that hud is super annoying. it's an all or nothing thing, no way to just leave the speedo and lap/pos and take away everything else, or at least take away that opponent list. the tach is just awfull, and if i want a regular tach, i need to go into cockpit view and the hud is still there over it. then there´s the lack of tire preasure or tire temperature, wich is calculated but not shown, which doesnt let you see what part of the tire is getting hot to let you know there´s an alignment problem... this is just stupid. But i could live with it and go by feel, if i could do changes on the fly while pausing during a test run, but noooo, i need to exit the run, go tru a bunch of loading screens, tune it again and go back and hope i still have an accurate notion of how it felt before. the game looks and sounds great, the handling is nice enough, but the "usability" of the mechanics in the game is just god awfull
I was kicked from a server for immediately crashing going out from the pit. Tested out the car a bit and saw how comically the car swayed side to side and bottom-out in a instant. Think they messed up the settings for the custom suspension.