Unfixable videocard from hell ? (part 1)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I'm going to be looking at my Tseng Labs video card from 1983 that was kindly (?) donated to me by a subscriber in a hopeless attempt for me saving it.
In this video(s) I will attempt to fix it, starting by cleaning it, changing caps, checking traces and replace chips where needed. Spoiler alert : it is not fixed by the end of the video but it should make for an interesting repair series .... lets try and learn something together !
I've posted some more detailed pictures here :
drive.google.c...
And also have a vogons / vcfed forum post :
www.vcfed.org/f...
www.vogons.org...
Wish me luck ... cause I'm going to need it.
#VideoCard #Repair #MDA
I have a good story for you. When I was 13 or 14 I got a 286 computer for my birthday, it was a Altos WS100 workstation made in 1987. It was cheap because the FDD controller was bad. I put an IDE/floppy controller in it years ago and disabled the onboard FDC. I decided recently to try and repair it and was determined to put a new 765 chip on the board. I went into my stash and found a chip compatible with the 765 and brought it back to the bench. I was getting ready to desolder the old chip, marking pin 1, and I thought I must have been off by a pin or something, because there was nothing poking through the hole. It turns out that when Future International was stuffing the board in 1987, one of the FDC pins folded under the chip and was never properly soldered. It worked initially due to friction and pressure, but as the machine got older and vibration and oxidation took their toll, the pin no longer made contact. I stuffed a cut-off pin in the hole and soldered it to the leg of the IC, viola it was fixed! That was an astounding find that I had never noticed before.
That's a good kind of memory that I like to read, I saw everything while reading it in my mind. Certainly it brought back to you good memories and nostalgic feelings, didn't it? Honestly, I am glad that you've shared it here. Thanks. ^^
I had a similar problem with a BBC Model B computer once. It had spent its entire life as a networked machine in a school, so it had never had the floppy disc interface upgrade installed, which consists on an Intel 8271 FDC, some logic chips and a ROM. I pulled some chips from a dead machine and installed them, but I couldn't get it to read any discs. I eventually found that the socket for the 8271 had one of its legs bent underneath, making no contact. A small blob of solder fixed it. I loved the way that a manufacturing fault from 1982 was only found in 2007 due to the way the machine was used.
@@Zeem4 I found it fascinating, it is good to know that old machines can have a new life with some repairs
11:53
This PCB flex under the screwdriver is almost scary to watch
PCBs are plastic or fiberglass, they're very flexible and you'd have to bend it a lot further to break it.
@@AiOinc1 i broke too much of pcb sheets to believe the claims of their toughness. Especially if it's old, who knows what damp shed it dwelled in.
When you insert that flat screw driver under the IC, and start turning it, if there under the chip is a track, you will scratch/cut the track with the screw driver, that was a bad approach, also when you (11:30 up to 11:50) used the border of the PCB as a pivoting point for the screw driver you bended the border, stretching the pcb surface, those tracks on the edge gets stretched and prossibly broken. I hope you ends fixing the board, but too many mistakes. First, you set it up in an ultrasonic cleanner as first STEP, then you mount it in an motherboard out of the cpu case, you really needs to do measurements when it is turned on, you not happily unmount ICs until you know which is bad, for knowing that you needs to scope those input pins and output pins., reffer to logic tables documentation and do a PRO investigation, here we are talking about amateur hoby, so time don't matter, labour hours don't matter. Basically, this video ends like "how to solder somehow", not "how to properly repair". Anyway, good chanel you has. Thanks. Just suscribed.
Hah, harsh, but you're not wrong.
Thanks captain happy
You could have put a warning. Seeing you lever those ICs out really made me cringe. ;-)
But it was for science and learning, I guess, and it shows why you shouldn't use screwdrivers on ICs.
Thanks for putting this in context and offering a way better method of desoldering chips!
I learned that adding fresh solder is about 50% of desoldering success. The rest is patience and often a bit of luck.
yeah, i was expecting the pads to get lifted..
@@C32-d5j Me too, but did you notice he cracked that orange component (capacitor?) too?
@@SimonSideburns No, you're talking about the one @8:49 and @10:57 right?
it looks like he replaced them all off camera
also look at that rainbow on the tip @10:24, wew, looks like a 10$ iron
@@C32-d5j Also at 8:25 ish when he levers out that chip
@@SimonSideburns yeah, i noticed that one, all that maters really is to not damage the PCB because it's usually better to replace caps with newer ones as long as the rating matches
Welp, staying home as much as possible to minimize the risk of being infected. Time to binge on retro tech videos.
I got you covered :)
Or you could acquire such an old machine yourself ;)
@@cyberp0et A but too pricey. I'm playing with pentium 1s and Athlons at the moment.
@@kaczan3 It will do just fine. I remember the fun and games involved in installing windows 98 and drivers on a pentium II.
@Zeta0001 UHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
love the videos but u DEFINITELY need a chip puller
retrospectro78 your soldering skills are a pure work of art! I really should look at doing stuff like this. I am toying with the idea of doing synth dismanting and repairing
That's scary to watch. When you use that kind of force you risk pulling out the vias.
I'm now anxious for the second part!
Anxious* (not to offend you, just to correct the word) ^^
@@Narayan_1996 Oh! I appreciate that! I am so "ansious" that I wrote wrong! =D
@@gilbert1975nf Don't worry, take it easy and you will learn it naturally as I did, you can do it! ^^ (BR here huehue)
*Eager is the word you meant.
@@theannoyedmrfloyd3998 Could be, also.
Holy hell, so much effort. This beast gets a lot of treatment. Keep it up, it will live up again. I am pretty sure... 😎
"and make some progress..." (snap) (crackle) (pop) "... or not..."
@8:44 two vias where striped from the pcb.... It can be a trip to hell if one doesn't pay attention, because the pad may seem good but doesn't conduct between sides.
Nothing is too crazy for RetroSpector78.
Very interesting and satisfying to watch.
A.K.A. Delight in the suffering of another
😈
I admire your patience.
Nice work so far. Looking forward to the next part, I hope you get it working again.
I'm sure you've already checked and dumped the card's EPROM.
Not from hell but from me :p
The card has triggered my interest in digital signal processing, TTL programming, boolean algebra, and reverse engineering old video cards..... now it has to work again ! :)
Apt username for this "gift" too :)
XD
@@RetroSpector78 you can fix my 3 EGA cards then :p
RetroSpector78 mind fixing my Mac Pro 2008 motherboard? ;)
Always enjoy your repair videos!
So much dedication!
You might want to keep the tip of the soldering iron on the pins for a little bit longer, so the solder can reach the other side of the board.
Suspect that sensitive logic parts may have been damaged by powering up a corroded card which had shorts between pins that allowed power levels to exceed tolerances. IE full current from chip VCC to an adress line, etc. TTL logic stuff is pretty resilient, but some of this early stuff wasn't particularly robust when made.
Way too much work for an old video card, but it was interesting watching you do it.
two quick tips: when soldering chips or sockets, solder two opposite corner pins first so you can check it’s seated right and adjust before doing all the other pins. Second, inspect the solder resist on those traces that go between the IC legs - sometimes it is worn away and when you solder the IC pin the solder will wick through the plated through hole and bridge to the trace. I had this happen on a C64 PLA and it took me ages to find. You can buy solder resist touch-up pens to repair it, I suspect nail varnish might also work.
Is that a weller spi-27? That's some soldering iron! I use mine for 15 years now
Cool resurrection video, looking forward for Part 2
This is Tseng Labs Utrapak. First Tseng card ever. IBM Monochrome (text only), printer port and realtime clock module. Caution - video output is digital TTL level (5V).
Edit: D-Sub pinout for mono/hercules. 1 - GND, 6 - Intensity (highlight), 7- Video, 8- H-sync, 9 - V-sync.
Probably video module works but monitor expects video on pins 3,4,5 (CGA/EGA) and displays noise.
I find that defective capacitors will often reform during the desolder process, so if you can't test them in-circuit then you just have to replace them. I have the earlier ESR60 model tester to which I have added a footswitch remote control, because it doesn't wait for the capacitor like your ESR70 does: th-cam.com/video/CG6LllxGsC4/w-d-xo.html
Recently I had a remote control which had been attacked by battery acid and I was surprised how well WD40 cleaned it up.
Wow! I'm so glad I stumbled on your TH-cam channel. My interests are not in retro repair but modern board repair. Are these technics and trouble shooting strategies transferable to modern boards? Thanks so much for your videos.
Look at a channel called Louis rossman... he does this sort of repair but on modern devices, mac's mostly. He is currently moving shop so you'll have to scroll a bit for the tech videos.... but yeah, most of these techniques do apply to modern motherboards
i like this type of videos, cause i can learn some more soldering and troubleshooting skills, thumbs up
and here I am feeling like a genius when I fix my pc by doing a small repair to the power supply.
pretty sure this guy could take 5 completely broken pc and use all the working pieces to build a working pc
Are you just fixing this for the sake of fixing it? Or is it an irreplaceable piece of vintage equipment that would be nice to keep running?
Just trying to learn .... the card itself is not worth a lot. it is one of the first Tseng Labs cards and supports a non standard 132 column mode. I’m just trying to learn some more on the internals of such a card.
I doubt this comment will be read but I wanted to say: You need to saturate the vinegar with table salt. I used to do that to restore old coin money and it works 800% but dont leave the liquid for too long it will eat everything.
I really like to see someone putting so much time and effort into fixing old components like this. A lot of people would probably just deem it a "lost cause" and trash it.
I just wish I had the skills and knowledge to do this sort of thing...
My question is what makes this card worth the effort in saving? It looks like any other MDA / Parallel card.
feels like welcoming gift seeing the RAM chips have your country's name on it 😂
Vinegar is an acid, you dont neutralize acid with acid. Use a base, like baking soda.
Or you can just dilute it, with alcohol, vinegar technically just dilutes it as well, but ita just wierd to do it with an acid.
Im just nit picking, dont mind me.
Awesome and very informative video! Thanks! :) All those traces made me think of Tron! Lightcycles! :D
Graphics cards are not my thing but it was thoroughly enjoyable to watch, incidentally though, I have a Tseng Labs graphics card still sitting in my first PC that I have owned. The machine is an AMD based 386DX40 with the math co processor, might have to pull it out one of these days and give it a thorough going over...
The cheap MiniPro TL866/TL866II EPROM programmers have a handy test capability. I've found this to be very helpful in debugging dodgy 74 series logic chips. It can also test static RAM. Sadly not common 4164/41256 DRAM chips though.
man looking at CGA Cards just makes me think how easy it seems to take a modern SRAM Chip, a CPLD, and an old stock Motorola 6845, and just build one of these yourself.
I have an advise for you - buy a desoldering station. I would recommend ZD-985. At a reasonable price your workshop life will become better!
Inconsertável placa de video do inferno
If its battery acid, and if vinegar is acid. How does one acid neutralize another? Does that mean that battery acid is basic? (The opposite of an acid)
I'm surprised you're not testing the logic chips with a usb MiniPro Eeprom Programmer. Maybe in the next video.
You've turned desoldering PCB components and drinking Belgian White Beer into a hobby for me. Thanks!
I use water with laundry detergent to clean water damaged PCBs in ultrasonic cleaner with heating. 1 to 2 min will do. Be cautious that ultrasonic cleaner can peel of soldering mask and damage crystal (crystal oscillator)
The 2nd chip from the lower left is a 74S174, that is probably where the clock divider is that feeds the 6845. The clock on pin 8 of the 7404 should appear on pin 9 of the 75174, then pin 12 should go to the 6845.
The 74S174 is the third chip on the lower left. Pin 9 shows 2.030Mhz ( = derived from the 16.24 crystal / 8), and pin 12 shows 1.015Mhz, and that is the CLK that the 6845 is receiving. (but pin12 is not electrically connected to the CLK pin of the 6845).
When you took out the chip with hot air, you forced it out too fast, before the solder was melted all through the pad, and ripped all the top pads from the PCB. Every ine of those pads on the top you showed was ripped up. You could heat the top side of the pcb (the chip itself) but usually it's best just to use a LOT of flux and desoldering wick than to use the solder sucker. Also put flux on both sides of the PCB including the top, helping to melt the solder and pull it through.
Jernej Jakob checked all the top pads after removing the chip and before / after I inserted the ic socket and could trace them all down. Problem now is that I only get 10khz of hsync so nothing shows up on the monitor and I have no idea where to start looking...
@@RetroSpector78 that green trimmer cap was very likely damaged, although I suspect it's for the RTC as it's close to what looks like a watch crystal. Other than that, It would be hard to trace down without a schematic. Maybe you could look up all the chip datasheets and look at each pin with a scope to see if any signal looks wrong (eg logic gates whose output doesn't correspond to input) but it's more likely a broken trace or bad contact somewhere.The large EEPROM socket could be still bad where you can't see it.
Edit: yep, the MSM5832 is a RTC chip. The rest of the circuitry could still rely on some signal from the RTC to work. I would start at the crystals and trace the clocks through the circuitry to see if they're lost somewhere. You can use photos of the bare board without the chips to reference where the traces should go.
@@brainndamage I think everything is derived from the (external) dot clock (the crystal). This gets divided to 16.257Mhz / 9 = 1.80Mhz (character is 9 pixels in height). That 1.80Mhz goes into the display controller CLK (MC6845). From that you can derive the horizontal sync (80 characters / row + horizontal retrace time = 98, so 1.80Mhz / 98 = 18.432 kHz hsync. With this card however I am only measuring a clock of 1.07Mhz, so the hsync ends up at 10 kHz (1.07 / 98 = 10kHz). I can compare that with a working MDA card so will try to focus now on where that 16.257Mhz / 9 = 1.80Mhz is going on.
@@RetroSpector78 At 12:24 it *definitely* looks as if the traces around the holes are missing, and when you remove the chip, the rings appear to be attached to the legs (although it may just be flattened solder adhering to the pins).
Take a look at the chip you removed to make sure?
Good luck! :)
Marketing claims will never break the laws of physics, accurate in circuit testing is and always will be impossible.
Is there some custom font in that character EEPROM?
What I do when it comes to soldering in ICs or Sockets I'll solder two spots to IE the two corners like if it's a 14pin Dip I'll Solder Pin 1 and Pin 8. That way I know it's flat then continue to Solder the rest of the Pins in.
You might want to invest in a Scope and a IC tester. I think the TL866II Plus can scan/check 74logic.
Please, give us the second part soon! Looking forward to it * - *
Ripping off solder traces for the sake of science? That hurts.
Is it just me, or did you tore out some pads or vias?
I much prefer using a desoldering gun than a hot air rework station.
uhh... vinegar is just more acid and doesn't neutralize, you want baking soda to neutralize the acid. leaving it to soak in a baking soda bath should help immensely instead of using vinegar. then of course wash with soap and water, or alcohol, and let dry.
No, the battery fluids are alkaline, so vinegar works. He just got them mixed up.
I'd have cleaned with water first to remove as much as possible, then used vinegar to neutralise anything remaining.
I thought capacitors were voltage dependent. A 35 V 10 uF capacitor would be 10 uF at rated voltage, but if the 35 V capacitor is operated at half voltage, the capacitance would also be half.
@glyn hodges The formula for capacitance is charge divided by voltage. In other words, if you have two equal capacitors in series, the voltage rating of the pair is double, but the total capacitance of the two capacitors is half of what one of the single capacitors is since the voltage across each is half of what it would be if only one. Capacitance is proportional to voltage.
@glyn hodges Nope. 1/Ct=1/(c1+c2+…) where C is capacitance.
@glyn hodges No, you said I was talking about charge, but I wasn’t I was talking about capacitance (but it doesn’t matter since capacitance and charge are directly proportional). The series example shows that capacitance is proportional to voltage. If you have two 1uf capacitors in series, the total capacitance is not 2uf, it’s 1/2uf and that’s because the voltage across each is 1/2 the total voltage. It doesn’t matter if it’s two capacitors in series on a single capacitor, if you cut the voltage in half, the capacitance is cut in half also.
@glyn hodges If charge is proportional to voltage like you say (and it is), and q=CV (and it does) then how could capacitance not be proportional to voltage also? Why in the world does capacitance go down in series? (hint: it’s because the voltage across the capacitors goes down).
@glyn hodges What I'm talking about is the rating of a capacitor in uF (or whatever units). If a capacitor is 1uf at 600Vdc and you operate it at 300Vdc, it's capacitance is .5uF, that's what I'm talking about.
Is that salt? I had a computer in a room with a salt water aquarium that looked like that.
This reminds me of how I fixed my CRT TV. I traced the problem to the kinescope PCB and then replaced every single component on it with a new one! Didn't have oscilloscope, schematics and any experience with CRTs at the time. And boy - there were quite a few of them components to replace. I hope you didn't have to do the same here :)
Jesus... You should like this video card very much, because in your place, I would just throw it away... I admire your determination. Thank you for providing us this step-by-step diagnostic video.
At 7:16 you can see C23 and C21 both yellow caps cracked, it can gets humidity inside and gets ruined in short time if not already ruined.
Maybe try to read the EPROM contents? If the chip is suffering from bit rot, you may get different checksums each time you read it. Interesting to see that the actual installed chips did not match the silkscreen. For instance an ALS instead of the indicated LS, and an AS instead of an S part. Probably they had timing issues with the slower parts.
It's just a character ROM, so that won't affect the functionality he's trying to test.
10:49 damage of the traces abd solder mask under the chip. Extract chips with proper tools: desoldering station and chip extractor!
Solder iron, solder wick, some flux, a glass table and some common sense will do a person well enough.
@@flaturiah common sense should tell you to get proper tools to do the job.
Can i ask a question that is a bit out of context,?
but is it possible to repair the end of a trace , "the thick end", rather than scraping off plastic to make a bridge, which can make things even more complicated consider how thin traces can be.
I'm asking because it seems you have some done soldering for a while and maybe having some tricks up your sleeves.
and well solder cant just be applyed on plastic if the copper is been ripped of due to stubborn parts that you accidentally ripped off to hard.
Also, way is "solder suckers" have a plastic tip? and not something that is heat resistant and obviously not binding to solder.
its so annoying to try to suck up solder without melting the plastic tip when you have to work within a few millimeters
This video is rather a experiment saga than fixing
could you share a buy link for your heatgun?
I didn't watch the whole video yet, but did you check that the eeprom contents are correct? Maybe someone with a working card can share his eeprom content for reference
"so these capacitors wouldn't blow up in my face..."
I don't know why, but that was just hilarious :)
Why are you using an acid to neutralize an acid? Should have used baking soda. Unless the corrosion was from an alkaline battery, in which case its not battery acid.
8:13 very uncomfortable
good luck @retrospector78
The reason they break so easy because of the plastic shell got brittle over the years
use hot air with the desoldering gun or preheat the board and then use the soldering iron and the sucker when the board is very hot, you can also bend a copper wire so it touches both rows of the pins then you need some more powerful soldering iron like 50w or more and then add solder around the copper wire where it touches the pins and then take out the ic
So anxious for part 2! This is the best channel for quarantined nerds like me :D
I wouldn't mind helping with my ultrasonic cleaner if it would help
Why can't you test and verify traces under ICs from the back of the board? I mean I understand if it can get confusing if schematics aren't available (and maybe even if they were), but still.
In some cases it is really difficult to follow them and you might make certain assumptions. Especially when
You are focussing on issues that are not there ... sometimes you think something is broken so you force yourself to find a solution to a problem that might not be there. In this case also a lot of logic chips turned out faulty so had to remove them anyways.
After replacing multiple chips and it _still_ not working, at this point is it really worth the effort and money to try to repair. Its such an old and basic card - it only has a text mode anyway, no graphics.
Its a Tseng Labs ... from 1983 .... on a retro channel :) I understand what you mean, but for me it’s all about learning new things and figuring out how stuff works. Spent way too much time on it so might as well make some videos on it :)
@Simon....If you think like this, there is no need to get in the retro hobby or start a retro YT channel...
A desoldering gun would make your life a lot easier. They remove solder from top and bottom at the same time and completely clear the hole out.
I have a desoldering station sitting in a box for over a year .... should really open it up and start using it :) perhaps in the next video (or the one after that)
@@RetroSpector78 do it ! you won't regret it ^^
@@RetroSpector78 Makes it so more easy...
You want to see corrosion? My 486 board had bad corrosion on there and the power connector was in worse shape than I thought, caps were toasted, and no damaged traces, which I'm lucky. Going to recap the board and get a replacement AT 12-pin PSU header.
Positively, the board looks a lot better than it did after removing the corrosion and oxidation, but the power is a bit weak (no -12VDC and +5VDC is a bit erratic), so after getting new 2.2nF, 47pF, and 100nF caps and a new AT PSU connector or the 6 pin ones (2 of them needed), it then should work once again and if the integrated I/O doesn't work, I have a new VLB I/O card as an emergency card for IDE, FDD, printer, serial, and game port (will be disabled for the sound card).
my macintosh performa 400's logic board was heavily corroded from the lithium 3.6v battery leaking all over it. it was dead, it couldn't be fixed, I just recycled it, saved the intact parts and case.
Hm... I got a desoldering station. That made IC removal really easy. I usually desolder multiple ICs one pin at a time so that they don't get too hot so in case they aren't broken I can continue using them.
Also this board looks in terms of components and capabilities like the video section of Taito's Qix. I fixed two of these that had similar corrosion. ICs really don't like battery acid, it creeps into them. And then when it finally works, they die within hours or weeks of use.
64k RAM, so this thing could do 320*200@256 colors (at least that's what Qix does, but the game only uses like 12 colors... self test shows 'em all - OK Qix does 256*256*256, not 320*200*256 but maaaan Nerd Alert!)
And since I regularly fix circuit boards like that, I have an IC tester. Don't just blindly yank out ICs if they can still be good. Although the first three rows... even if they work now, they won't in a couple of weeks...
@Mr Guru After many minutes thinking what to answer, I settled on "O Rly?"
@Mr Guru Lol now I read the edited comment. "Maybe" fits exactly, since it isn't a graphics chip, it's a graphics controller chip that provides flexibly programmable timings (and VRAM addresses) for a graphics subsystem. It doesn't care how powerful the subsystem is. Character only, Lo-Res, Hi-Res, 1 bit per pixel, 8 bits per pixel, more, it doesn't care. I wonder if it can be programmed to do HD... guess not.
Nice Project
Nice video!!
Debiste usar una estación de aire caliente para remover esos circuitos y evitar dañar las pistas. Saludos.
I think you're now supposed to remove the body of that first chip that was sacrificed for science. You know like an autopsy. Again for science and not just because vintage chip will always look way cooler inside than modern chips. I will however make exceptions for modern CPUs. Those will never not be awesome.
At least the card hasn't been revealed to be a 'smoke monster'. Slay that dragon!
36 seconds in.... And I am thinking. Good luck, you really need it with that card. Ohhh the damage. 😒
You should have seen the condition of the PC's they were in...I only removed the Varta as a first step.
@@GuybrushThriftweed Always up for a horror story 😁
@@brostenen I'll post the pics on Vogons when the two systems are finished. I am not sure but I think I did a post about them there... Let's say I think they were used to plow fields, work in the garden or as a plant pot. Both IBM 5150/5160 systems/cases.
@@GuybrushThriftweed Cool. I will be looking out for some pic's. Personally I am concentrating on different platforms at the moment. Those Commodore machines are taking way too much time to investigate stuff about. And then again, some are dead simple constructions.
@@brostenen I saw some time ago that you were into your A500. my nick on Vogons is different there :)
Your work is incredible. I would have ragequit after replacing just 1 IC.
A few caps is enough for me!
Love the vids cant wait for part 2!
Second that.. I have three EGA cards that only show a few lines on top of the screen, like seen here in the end. Would like to repair them but I fear it will take too much time and skill
@@GuybrushThriftweed I have been putting off replacing the caps on my Geforce 2 pro because there is... 5 of them. xD
And you think to yourself, is such an old EGA card really worth the time, money and effort to repair.
@@LewisR09 Having the right tools sure help with that.
Now that I have a desoldering iron and a good soldering iron, things are so easy to remove ... It's just super nice !
@@DxDeksor I have the same type of desolder pump that retrospector uses. Love it. much better than braid from my use anyway.
Hey!
WHHHHYYYYY!
Drink a shot when he says PCB :)
looking forward to part 2 :)
Dealing with similiar issues on an Amiga 2000. Got the system booting but I plan to rebuild the front part of the board due to battery corrosion.Fighting the Zorro bus now...hoping its just the logic ICs
Thought these logic ICs were built like tanks, but this one has proven the opposite.
@@RetroSpector78 yep. You'd think but age says otherwise. I wish I had recorded my work on this board :( I have a channel I've been trying to build
Also if the power supply in the machine was a cheap one, it could drive these chips out of spec And make them slowly dir.
What is the ESR value of the new tantalums ?
0.48 ohm ... shown in in the video :)
@@RetroSpector78 Sorry, I missed this part completely. ;)
quality stuff
Good luck!
Could you elaborate on that breadboarding in some later video please?
Just taking out chip(s) and putting them on a solderless breadboard for debugging issues and trying to get a better understanding of how this stuff works. It’s a simple way to isolate issues with single chips.
@@RetroSpector78 a TL866 eprom programmer may come handy as well as this device can also test some IC chips !
I like your vids....
7:53 wow, dollar store soldering iron, literally the worst technique I've ever seen with the desoldering pump - no wonder you're not having a good time and pulled all the vias out of those sockets. And still terrible technique at 9:10 even when you think you're doing it correctly. Problem with youtube is there are too many "experts" that have no idea wtf they're doing in the first place trying to teach other people.
What would you do differently?
@@djdjukic Add fresh solder to the joint, keep the iron on it for at least 10 seconds, then you quickly switch between the iron and the desoldering pump. You stick the entire nozzle of the desoldering pump over the joint tight against the board so it sucks the solder out all the way through. It takes a little practice to get the technique down, but a) you don't melt the tip of the desoldering pump with the iron, and b) you form a seal all around the joint to completely suck the solder out all the way around, not mostly air from around the tip of the nozzle of the pump. Also, don't use the dollar store soldering iron (dead give away, tip is held in with a screw - that's the cheapest soldering iron you can get). Get something that's at least temperature controlled, and on the high wattage side for desoldering. If you're going to desolder a lot of through hole, a vacuum pump based desoldering station is well worth the $150 you'll pay for it. I used the hand desoldering pump for a lot of years, then got a proper desoldering station a year or so ago. I much prefer the vacuum station, unless it's only one component with 2 or 3 legs, then the hand pump is sufficient. Even with the vacuum pump station, the best technique is to hold the tip on for a while to let everything get hot, then turn on the suction while moving the iron in a circle. That way you don't end up with the pin still soldered to the inside of the hole on one side. You can see when he levers out the chip with a screwdriver that a lot of the plated vias that connect the top and bottom traces came with the chip, turning a simple repair into a nightmare. Look for the copper colored rings on the pins of the chip after he pulls it out. If you're going to repair things, and especially teach others how to do it, at least do it right.
Critique is welcome, I’m sure, but does it really need to be delivered with contempt to be effective?
C’mon man. We’re not all trained repair techs here, clearly. But the guy’s sharing the experience he has. There may be room for improvement but we all start somewhere.
@@gorak9000 Thank you very much for the detailed advice. I did figure out that you should try to get the tip of the pump all the way around the pin, but sometimes either the board has too much or the pin too little thermal mass, and the solder freezes the moment you pull the iron off the joint. Desoldering is a real struggle sometimes, especially with modern, thin boards with crappy vias. I've been meaning to get a vacuum desoldering station, and now I will, no more ugly repairs!
As for the criticism, I don't know how the author of this video feels but I often learn a lot from these brutally honest comments, on my own work and that of others.
@@gorak9000 In any case he got the job done, though I would not dare ruin that one IC footprint even "for science"!
11:15 lol started as 666c
If you want to neutralize acid you use soap or lye not another acid like vinegar.