Awesome. I suspected as much but have never seen anyone actually try it before. I am going to use a very think very large mirror for mine providing I can remove the reflective surface from the back. Thank you very much.
Given the number of people using perspex, clearly the whole ultraclear glass thing is a myth. I suspect it arose from conflation of the colour of the glass with the finish of the edges. I've seen a lot of panes of window glass where the edges are rounded off to reduce the chance of damage to the glass or anyone's fingers before being fitted. Not only is it rounded, but it's often not polished, giving it a very matte, diffuse property. Ultraclear tempered glass, on the other hand, has a cut face on the edge, as it's likely to be on display. Clearly if you have a flat cut/polished edge, the edge lighting will penetrate pretty cleanly, and if you have a rounded, diffuse edge, it won't. The window pane you used in this video had a cut edge, so edge-lighting was possible. I guess that's really all it comes down to: cut edge, light gets in. Rough edge, it gets bounced out.
Yes great observations. My first board was with perspex however I abandoned it because it scratched too easily and was frustrating the light. Mind you, I can overcome this with camera settings. Perspex is expensive where I live so glass is cheaper. Glass is heavier though and needs o be shatter proof for use with students. So there is always tradeoffs. The specification that the glass needs to be 10mm thick doesn't appear to be required either. I found 6 mm woks nicely, still has the stiffness, but not the weight or the price. 4mm was too flimsy.
@@SteveGriffithsvideo I'm planning on making mine with perspex, because I'm a bit ham-fisted and wouldn't trust myself building a frame for glass. If my perspex unit falls off the table, it might hurt, but it won't cause permanent damage! I suspect that the origin of the 10mm rule is simply the fact that the backing/circuit strip for LEDs is typically 1cm wide, so it's much simpler to make: make a 10mm slot, stick the strip to it, slot the pane in and you're done. Of course, the actual LEDs only take up part of the strip's width, and they're getting smaller with every generation of the tech... but the backing strip stays the same width to keep the manufacturing process simple. If you align the edge of the strip with one face of the pane, you're going to need at minimum 6 or 7mm to have the edge cover a substantial part of the LEDs and capture most of the usable light. Any less than that and you're going to need some shimming on both sides of the pane to centre it over the LEDs, so you're starting to have to trade off ease of construction vs quality of output. I've also noticed that a lot of the more basic DIY jobs I've seen online have a lot of bleed around the LEDs, and I suspect that's because a significant portion of the LED light isn't coming in on the edge, but through the front and/or back face (or in the case of glass, through a chamfer). This means that it's not at a shallow enough angle to the face to achieve total internal reflection, and partially escapes the glass on each bounce.
Hi Steve, thank you so much for your helpful video, would you be kind enough to tell me which L:ED strips you use, presumably it's the same strip that surrounds all 4 edges of the glass panel? I see the LED strips did not cover all 4 edges completely, but did not see any stop the text glow from suffering at all.
Hi Sam I think in this board I used one strip at the way around. For my big board I needed two strips. But I definitely think it is worth having LEDs all the way around.
@@SteveGriffithsvideo Got it! Thank you so much, Steve! The commercial prices are just crazy in the UK, from £2,200, so really grateful for showing us, it can be done without being ripped off
Hi Mr. Griffiths. Congratulations for your videos and you lightboards, they are amazing. I´ll make one to use on my channel, and I just have a little doubt: I should put this led strips on the 4 edges of the glass? Thanks!
@@SteveGriffithsvideo Thanks! I'm still looking for this low iron glass, perhaps I wont be able to find in my town... And doing mental drawing about structure I will made, size, all this things. I just saw all your videos about building one, I cant wait to began to make mine!
GAZI KAMAL COVERS hi, this video should give you an idea of my settings th-cam.com/video/quCsGJ_s704/w-d-xo.html. I also wrote a blog post that might be helpful flippedlearning.org/how_to/how-to-make-a-lightboard-for-less-than-100/
crgl2009 this video was normal window glass. My real light board uses ultra clear glass. Plexiglass works just as well but I find it scratches easier. It really depends on what you find is cheaper and easier to access where you live. Plexiglass is more expensive than glass for us. Good luck
@@SteveGriffithsvideo oh, ok. I dont know what you refer to as normal window glass because here we use mainly miami blinds. But I have a glass from a big painting.
Hi Tony, good question. I don't use the window glass at ll as I have a low iron glass board. I know of others who used window glass for a few years then upgraded. I know of one colleague who is still using glass pool balustrade with good results. So if you can afford it, the ultra clear glass is better but the window glass will do if you have good quality LED strip lights and set up your camera well.
Hi Rohit, I am not really sure. I have never used PPT at the same time as the lightboard. I have seen some presenters use a greenscreen with the lightboard nd others have used the PPT as a picture in picture. Sometimes I do overlay an image for a period of time and I just make sue it doesnt cover my face. I hope that makes sense to you. Good luck.
Awesome. I suspected as much but have never seen anyone actually try it before. I am going to use a very think very large mirror for mine providing I can remove the reflective surface from the back. Thank you very much.
Of all the light board videos I've watched, you're the first one to be specific with the camera settings. Bravo.
Thanks Michael here is a link to another video where I talk about the camera settings th-cam.com/video/quCsGJ_s704/w-d-xo.html
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@@ashrfattia859 لو في مصر احنا بنصنعها كلمني علي 01101217000
Given the number of people using perspex, clearly the whole ultraclear glass thing is a myth.
I suspect it arose from conflation of the colour of the glass with the finish of the edges.
I've seen a lot of panes of window glass where the edges are rounded off to reduce the chance of damage to the glass or anyone's fingers before being fitted. Not only is it rounded, but it's often not polished, giving it a very matte, diffuse property.
Ultraclear tempered glass, on the other hand, has a cut face on the edge, as it's likely to be on display.
Clearly if you have a flat cut/polished edge, the edge lighting will penetrate pretty cleanly, and if you have a rounded, diffuse edge, it won't. The window pane you used in this video had a cut edge, so edge-lighting was possible. I guess that's really all it comes down to: cut edge, light gets in. Rough edge, it gets bounced out.
Yes great observations. My first board was with perspex however I abandoned it because it scratched too easily and was frustrating the light. Mind you, I can overcome this with camera settings. Perspex is expensive where I live so glass is cheaper. Glass is heavier though and needs o be shatter proof for use with students. So there is always tradeoffs. The specification that the glass needs to be 10mm thick doesn't appear to be required either. I found 6 mm woks nicely, still has the stiffness, but not the weight or the price. 4mm was too flimsy.
@@SteveGriffithsvideo I'm planning on making mine with perspex, because I'm a bit ham-fisted and wouldn't trust myself building a frame for glass. If my perspex unit falls off the table, it might hurt, but it won't cause permanent damage!
I suspect that the origin of the 10mm rule is simply the fact that the backing/circuit strip for LEDs is typically 1cm wide, so it's much simpler to make: make a 10mm slot, stick the strip to it, slot the pane in and you're done.
Of course, the actual LEDs only take up part of the strip's width, and they're getting smaller with every generation of the tech... but the backing strip stays the same width to keep the manufacturing process simple.
If you align the edge of the strip with one face of the pane, you're going to need at minimum 6 or 7mm to have the edge cover a substantial part of the LEDs and capture most of the usable light. Any less than that and you're going to need some shimming on both sides of the pane to centre it over the LEDs, so you're starting to have to trade off ease of construction vs quality of output.
I've also noticed that a lot of the more basic DIY jobs I've seen online have a lot of bleed around the LEDs, and I suspect that's because a significant portion of the LED light isn't coming in on the edge, but through the front and/or back face (or in the case of glass, through a chamfer). This means that it's not at a shallow enough angle to the face to achieve total internal reflection, and partially escapes the glass on each bounce.
Hi Steve, thank you so much for your helpful video, would you be kind enough to tell me which L:ED strips you use, presumably it's the same strip that surrounds all 4 edges of the glass panel? I see the LED strips did not cover all 4 edges completely, but did not see any stop the text glow from suffering at all.
Hi Sam
I think in this board I used one strip at the way around. For my big board I needed two strips. But I definitely think it is worth having LEDs all the way around.
@@SteveGriffithsvideo Got it! Thank you so much, Steve! The commercial prices are just crazy in the UK, from £2,200, so really grateful for showing us, it can be done without being ripped off
Hi Mr. Griffiths. Congratulations for your videos and you lightboards, they are amazing. I´ll make one to use on my channel, and I just have a little doubt: I should put this led strips on the 4 edges of the glass? Thanks!
@@SteveGriffithsvideo Thanks! I'm still looking for this low iron glass, perhaps I wont be able to find in my town... And doing mental drawing about structure I will made, size, all this things. I just saw all your videos about building one, I cant wait to began to make mine!
Can you tell me about the video setting of camera like iso, frame rate, aperture etc.?
Should the room be dark?
GAZI KAMAL COVERS hi, this video should give you an idea of my settings
th-cam.com/video/quCsGJ_s704/w-d-xo.html. I also wrote a blog post that might be helpful flippedlearning.org/how_to/how-to-make-a-lightboard-for-less-than-100/
What is better, glass or acrylic plexiglass ? Does light diffuse better on plexiglass ?
crgl2009 this video was normal window glass. My real light board uses ultra clear glass. Plexiglass works just as well but I find it scratches easier. It really depends on what you find is cheaper and easier to access where you live. Plexiglass is more expensive than glass for us. Good luck
@@SteveGriffithsvideo oh, ok. I dont know what you refer to as normal window glass because here we use mainly miami blinds. But I have a glass from a big painting.
crgl2009 yes glass from a painting is ultra clear. Just be careful it is possibly only 3mm thick so might flex a bit. Also it won’t be safety glass.
@@SteveGriffithsvideo correct. It is thin but more or less rigid since it has a sturdy wood frame. Thanks !
@Steve Griffiths How often do you use this board now? Would you still recommend the possibility of using normal window glass after three years?
Hi Tony, good question. I don't use the window glass at ll as I have a low iron glass board. I know of others who used window glass for a few years then upgraded. I know of one colleague who is still using glass pool balustrade with good results. So if you can afford it, the ultra clear glass is better but the window glass will do if you have good quality LED strip lights and set up your camera well.
Hi sir . I just want to know if i want to show power point presentation in that case where should i set my projector..
Hi Rohit, I am not really sure. I have never used PPT at the same time as the lightboard. I have seen some presenters use a greenscreen with the lightboard nd others have used the PPT as a picture in picture. Sometimes I do overlay an image for a period of time and I just make sue it doesnt cover my face. I hope that makes sense to you. Good luck.
Hi Steve, can you mention glass other than extra clear glass or low iron glass?
thank you :)
Sir, what should be the thickness of this Window glass?????
I think window glass is about 5-6 mm. That will be fine. It doesn’t have to be as thick as 10mm.
@@SteveGriffithsvideo thnx a lot,, luv from India
cool
Hi sir, what thickness of the glass did you use?
Row Catchillar I think this was about 6mm. 6mm is ideal as it isn’t too heavy or expensive but is is also stiff enough that it doesn’t flex
Sir which camera u r using
@@SteveGriffithsvideo sir which glass r u using...