The way you finish is the way I was taught when I was 9 years old. I'm now 46 and some of new people in the industry say it's old school. I'm glad you kept the art and your excellent at it
I watch your videos all the time, I can't think of who you remind me of, you look like Adam Corolla but talk like a nerd I used to know. He got his phd in physics and was a very good teacher.
-6 inch knife -make sure your mud is a bit runny -the crease of the tape (or the "peak"), should go TOWARDS the wall -make sure your tape is centered -make sure your tape is INSIDE the recess, and that there's still room to mud. (Should see daylight)
pro tip if the mud is less dense it’s easier to wipe off underneath the tape less pressure you will be using so you won’t get your hand tired id also recommend using the green lid bucket to tape because it has more glue
Thank you for your useful and clear videos. If you are using a 6 inch knife that more than spans the taper, how do you get the mud out from the middle of the joint? If you press the knife against the tape, the middle of the joint, where the boards are narrowest, will be below the edge of the knife.
I think his knife is either just a little more flexible, or he’s using more mud in the tapered joint. I’ve had this issue as well. If you look later into the video, he spans the joint and it’s recessed as well.
Do you add any credence to passing a thin layer of mud over the bedded in tape as a last pass. I’ve been told it helps to keep the tape saturated and not dry the mud out. Asking because I am an ok taper but not expert and trying to improve.
how do you tape a joint where one side is recessed and the other is not? do you fill the the recessed first to bring it to the same level or you just tape it then fill it after all?
Well, I just tried using a 6” knife and I can’t get the space because the knife is too wide. If I squeeze harder I start pulling the tape. What if I use a 4” knife instead? Seems to work.
Whats the best way to tape seams where theres a gap between the drywall? If its not on option to butt the seams against each other do you just use mesh tape so you dont get the mud bubble in the center of the tape?
Hey Ben I watch the number of your videos they’re all great I had to enclose an exterior door that went out to my lanai so now I have vertical and horizontal seems that I’m trying to tape and I’m wondering if I have to skim coat the whole former door area or can I do the seams. Also it’s a knockdown wall
Best drywall tutorial videos. Keep them coming... Question - why do you always wear gloves? Drywall work is the only work I do that I don’t wear gloves. Is compound bad for the skin?
Some guys lay all tapes/beads to start, I've also seen where guys have taped butt joints covered by flat joints than coat the flat before bead and inside corner. So yes u can coat right away, just don't coat with taping mud. The flats actually dry the quickest of all joints so I am usually quick to coat them. For smaller jobs just use all purpose mud all the way it has the adhesive and the sandability. Most important thing for a diy person is just make sure you start taping your butt joints first into the flat than tape the flat over and proceed
Hello Ben I have been watching your Drywalling, muding and taping videos. I see you have taped joints with the tape wet with mud at the beginning of this playlist and with the tape dry. when should I use either method. I am a novice and will be doing a medium sized bedroom and a stairwell. I would have preferred to hire someone but work is slow due to the Pandemic going around. I work with my hands in a lot of different areas so I am used to doing work. The last time I tried this it did not go well but I did not see your videos first. Thank you for the great videos.
The long side of a sheetrock is finished and tapered out about 1/8 thinner. So it is easy to make it flat after compound is applied. But the short side of a sheetrock is not finished and same thickness as whatever the thickness is. If two short sides are put together side by side, and when compound is applied, how to make it as flat as possible since they are the same height of thickness?
All-purpose joint compound (USG green lid bucket) is the mud you use to tape. Even though you can use any mud you want, USG recommends the green lid bucket for all taping.. ...so in the States, we have "taping mud".. ..just sayin :)
The problem I struggle with is doing really long strips. I don’t like to keep cutting the tape cause it looks better with bigger strips, however, I struggle with keeping the tape flat and neat that way. Are you able to give me any tips for this? Am I not putting enough pressure?
Sorry to bump this 3 years later… but, I’m dying to know… can I use setting type mud (like sheet rock 90) for taping? You mention in another video that general purpose is only good enough for a tailgate warranty.
What I’ve read/seen elsewhere is All purpose for first layer is ok. For top coats use the bagged powder stuff that you mix with water. The reason not to use all purpose for top coats is it’s harder to sand.
@@WW-hr1hd thanks! I ended up using hot mud for taping and first coats, due to less shrinking and for strength, and machine mud for my final 3 coats for easier sanding and smooth finish.
Hi Ben I've been struggling a lot with flat joints. You seem to be able to get the mud out from under the tape easily with a six inch knife. But as the recess is narrower than this I can't seem to get the mud out and this is leaving me with creases in the tape which then blister after first coat any tips for this please
Often when I attempt to embed tape, I get mud out from behind the tape and it looks nice and flat.. I’ll come back 20 minutes later and there will be a bulge along the the crease. Too much mud left behind?
Hey Ben, for doing a ceiling, would the same exact technique apply? I've got 8' seams to fill, and a few are not butted directly against each other (old house)
@BMWMD1 I applied putty into the spaces between the 2 pieces and let it dry. Then hit it again and it that dry, then when it was built up enough for the tape to look good, I applied it. Then when that dried, I tried to build it up to make it as even as possible. For me, it was about taking my time and letting it fully dry before hitting it again. It took a few days
not really. what you can do however is apply another super thin coat of mud on top of the tape to get it wet if you want to minimize the risk of bubbles
If I've learned anything from your videos, going back and watching 2-3 times helps sink it in much better.
Finally someone who teaches how to , straight to the point. 👌🏼🤝🏼
The way you finish is the way I was taught when I was 9 years old. I'm now 46 and some of new people in the industry say it's old school. I'm glad you kept the art and your excellent at it
I do small jobs this way. Big jobs get more productive methods. But I still like the old ways :)
I watch your videos all the time, I can't think of who you remind me of, you look like Adam Corolla but talk like a nerd I used to know. He got his phd in physics and was a very good teacher.
Short and sweet, well presented, and cool t-shirt.
You are a star! Excellent videos that have been invaluable to our DIY home projects. Thank you.
You are a lifesaver, seriously! Thanks for the great videos. So easy to follow
-6 inch knife
-make sure your mud is a bit runny
-the crease of the tape (or the "peak"), should go TOWARDS the wall
-make sure your tape is centered
-make sure your tape is INSIDE the recess, and that there's still room to mud. (Should see daylight)
Hol up!! You mean I have to put the tape on a side?
Man , what a great video series, thank you for making super videos, subbed!
pro tip if the mud is less dense it’s easier to wipe off underneath the tape less pressure you will be using so you won’t get your hand tired id also recommend using the green lid bucket to tape because it has more glue
Very helpful! Thank you from down in the States!
Thank you for your useful and clear videos. If you are using a 6 inch knife that more than spans the taper, how do you get the mud out from the middle of the joint? If you press the knife against the tape, the middle of the joint, where the boards are narrowest, will be below the edge of the knife.
I was looking for this question too. Pity he didn’t answer it. I wonder how it works...
I think his knife is either just a little more flexible, or he’s using more mud in the tapered joint. I’ve had this issue as well. If you look later into the video, he spans the joint and it’s recessed as well.
Do you add any credence to passing a thin layer of mud over the bedded in tape as a last pass. I’ve been told it helps to keep the tape saturated and not dry the mud out. Asking because I am an ok taper but not expert and trying to improve.
You da man Ben
how do you tape a joint where one side is recessed and the other is not? do you fill the the recessed first to bring it to the same level or you just tape it then fill it after all?
Same as a butt joint for me.
So are you going to fill the recess later or is that done?
Use hot mud on flat joints if using fiba fuse, or just regular mud?
Hmm. I tried to get away with 45 minute mud and no tape but that ended up cracking after a year. Thanks a million
Thank you Ben for sharing your wisdom with us! Always thoroughly explained and very informative in your vids. You do great work!
no worries
What kind of gloves do you wear when applying mud?
Well, I just tried using a 6” knife and I can’t get the space because the knife is too wide. If I squeeze harder I start pulling the tape. What if I use a 4” knife instead? Seems to work.
Whats the best way to tape seams where theres a gap between the drywall? If its not on option to butt the seams against each other do you just use mesh tape so you dont get the mud bubble in the center of the tape?
As others have said great video.
I have a 32ft flat joint on my ceiling. Is it ok to paper tape in sections? Can I just overlap the tape in the flat where I start and stop?
thanks for the info!! i have a small job this weekend at a buddies house and i just learn how to apply it !
I hope it goes well!
@@vancouvercarpenter ns
Hey Ben I watch the number of your videos they’re all great I had to enclose an exterior door that went out to my lanai so now I have vertical and horizontal seems that I’m trying to tape and I’m wondering if I have to skim coat the whole former door area or can I do the seams. Also it’s a knockdown wall
Best drywall tutorial videos. Keep them coming...
Question - why do you always wear gloves? Drywall work is the only work I do that I don’t wear gloves. Is compound bad for the skin?
Probably isn't great for it, and it sure dries the hell out of your hands
So do you actually have to let that dry before you put more mud over top of that paper or you can keep going and cover it ?
Dill Wiggle- Ben can you answer the question? Is this a complete first coat or do you now have to cover the paper more?
Leave it to dry then
Apply your 2nd base coat , wait to dry then your top coat. Wait to dry then sand unless your skimming the whole thing
Some guys lay all tapes/beads to start, I've also seen where guys have taped butt joints covered by flat joints than coat the flat before bead and inside corner. So yes u can coat right away, just don't coat with taping mud. The flats actually dry the quickest of all joints so I am usually quick to coat them. For smaller jobs just use all purpose mud all the way it has the adhesive and the sandability. Most important thing for a diy person is just make sure you start taping your butt joints first into the flat than tape the flat over and proceed
Great video mate 😁 not done much taping as a joiner but handy to know for the house much appreciated 👌
Excellent video, easy to follow and understand, thank you.
Thanks Jean!
Hello Ben I have been watching your Drywalling, muding and taping videos. I see you have taped joints with the tape wet with mud at the beginning of this playlist and with the tape dry. when should I use either method. I am a novice and will be doing a medium sized bedroom and a stairwell. I would have preferred to hire someone but work is slow due to the Pandemic going around. I work with my hands in a lot of different areas so I am used to doing work. The last time I tried this it did not go well but I did not see your videos first. Thank you for the great videos.
Great video as always. I am learning so much. Is there a brand of paper tape you recommend over others? Thanks.
What happened to wetting the tape?
thanks for showing. How to handle the joints if they are not butt at the finished ends but a cut ends.
Sorry, I don't quite understand the question.
The long side of a sheetrock is finished and tapered out about 1/8 thinner. So it is easy to make it flat after compound is applied. But the short side of a sheetrock is not finished and same thickness as whatever the thickness is. If two short sides are put together side by side, and when compound is applied, how to make it as flat as possible since they are the same height of thickness?
Thanks. I understand now. Watch this video. It's a bit long but it answers exactly what your asking.
th-cam.com/video/t015fPsTsZw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks
Do joint intersections get overlapped with tape?
how many coats do you do for flat joints, I noticed for butt joints you do at least 2 coats?
How do you do this if you have a knockdown textured wall?
All-purpose joint compound (USG green lid bucket) is the mud you use to tape. Even though you can use any mud you want, USG recommends the green lid bucket for all taping..
...so in the States, we have "taping mud"..
..just sayin :)
The problem I struggle with is doing really long strips. I don’t like to keep cutting the tape cause it looks better with bigger strips, however, I struggle with keeping the tape flat and neat that way. Are you able to give me any tips for this? Am I not putting enough pressure?
Sorry to bump this 3 years later… but, I’m dying to know… can I use setting type mud (like sheet rock 90) for taping? You mention in another video that general purpose is only good enough for a tailgate warranty.
What I’ve read/seen elsewhere is All purpose for first layer is ok. For top coats use the bagged powder stuff that you mix with water.
The reason not to use all purpose for top coats is it’s harder to sand.
I've heard several people say to use general purpose (green lid) mud for taping, because it has more glue in it.
@@WW-hr1hd thanks! I ended up using hot mud for taping and first coats, due to less shrinking and for strength, and machine mud for my final 3 coats for easier sanding and smooth finish.
Hi Ben I've been struggling a lot with flat joints. You seem to be able to get the mud out from under the tape easily with a six inch knife. But as the recess is narrower than this I can't seem to get the mud out and this is leaving me with creases in the tape which then blister after first coat any tips for this please
From what I've seen try and hold the knife slightly harder on one side of the tape as you smooth the tape and then do the other side the same way.
Often when I attempt to embed tape, I get mud out from behind the tape and it looks nice and flat.. I’ll come back 20 minutes later and there will be a bulge along the the crease. Too much mud left behind?
Daniel Larrivee you using setting mud? Or drying mud?
crunch9876 drying “lite taping”
At 45 seconds you said you don’t have to pre fill it, what does that mean?
@John Joe thanks John!
thanks, can I just use credit card instead of putty knife? I only need to repair one spot
we call it bevel edge here in Toronto, at least the drywallers do
Do you use WD 40 to stop your tools from rusting?
6inch knife and pan don’t use wd 40 it isn’t necessary
Thank You
Thanks Ben!
Hey Ben, for doing a ceiling, would the same exact technique apply? I've got 8' seams to fill, and a few are not butted directly against each other (old house)
@BMWMD1 I applied putty into the spaces between the 2 pieces and let it dry. Then hit it again and it that dry, then when it was built up enough for the tape to look good, I applied it. Then when that dried, I tried to build it up to make it as even as possible. For me, it was about taking my time and letting it fully dry before hitting it again. It took a few days
Is there an order that you like to tape your joints? (Flats, Butts, Angles?)
Screws, Flats, Corners, Butts
Don't you have to wet the tape?
not really. what you can do however is apply another super thin coat of mud on top of the tape to get it wet if you want to minimize the risk of bubbles
Thanks man
with a 6 inch knife how is it getting in there, why not a 4 inch knife
Good job
very useful Video.
Carpenter and underwear model lol. You remind me of one of the lead singer in the band dead by April. Lol
You make it look so easy. Like a caveman can do it; nice....
Thanks Mark.
buenísimo
FIBAFUSE ❤❤❤
chip and fill first
Man I thought he said I hope you get some beautiful fat joints.
Are you going to tell us how to finish the joint? Even verbally?
U skate too
With respect...Do you actually do any carpentry ?
As above so below occult t shirt ...
Bro you're fucking handsome, no homo.
Thank again and again
Ben Dover