I’ve been in the drywall business for over 35years,I was taught using a mud pan and 6 8 10 12” taping blades.watching this guys use a hawk and trowel is extremely awesome.I wish I had that kind of skills.great job gentlemen.
This brings me back! Used to do drywall finishing in my 20's. Good times. Eventually moved up to interior carpentry finishing (doors/trim), and now I build custom cabinets. Keep up the hustle! 🤜 🤛
These guys have some really nice, clean and uniform work. I did sheetrock work for 25 years and rarely have seen this clean of a look. I would sand behind these guys ANY DAY! NICE JOB FELLAS!
These guys are amazing. That being said you can’t teach how to do this in a video. It’s a true art that is completely learned by feel and not by watching and learning. You can definitely pick up a few tips but if you don’t have the feel it can’t be done like these professionals do it. As a general contractor/ carpenter (I remodel mainly kitchens and bathrooms) I’ve been doing my own for about 20 years and while I’ve gotten better I’ll never have the feel to do it like these guys can.
Hey guys great seeing this! I'm an old drywall taper guy from years ago. We did things a little differently here in California. I used a mud pan and flat handle knives, a 6-inch for taping covering nails/screws and angles then a 10-inch then a 12-inch for finishing buts and joints. I only used a hawk and trowels while doing interior and exterior plastering. Great video!!
thank you. you dont know how helpful it is and how much i just learned from watching guys that actually know what they are doing and finish drywall for a living.
Pure machines. Tho the one thing u cant learn from this video and from any craftsman is the hand/wrist movement and feel for pressure. It May take a couple of minutes to learn that. Just kiddin. Love your work guys. It makes you feel Like you can do it yourself. Keep up the good work.
Nice to see the proper way to the job. Trained on hand tools using the 10 3/4" loading trowel then 103/4 " finish trowel as apposed to the knife. I find its abit more personal using hand tools. You pay more attention to the finish . Machines have there place but traditionally the tradesman takes more pride and TLC and can show off the skills hes learned. The quality work shines and so do the faces of the clients. Hats off to u guys. keep up the great work
you guys do nice work.I like to see other younger men who have beared the grooling process of learning how to finish on that level one thing i know its not as easy as we make it look keep it up I just hope i will be able to pass the buck eventually.
Thank's for the tip's. I never thought of putting the mud on with an 8" knife then finishing with a 12" knife seem's easy'er on the wrist then on/off with a 12". I'm going to try it!!!
We split the butts out on fill coat wit 10" box (if that is needed. Down center if hollow joint) . On second coat we triple them with a 12" box, chase with a blade. And when they are dry, we 12" box the bands straight through the butts.
Being a drywaller in the US for almost 20 yrs i can say that for hand finishing these guys are legit and clean. Only thing i don't like or know is why there are no screws in the field of the wall sheets ? Hmm puzzling.
Glue on stud is not as effective as screws. Also I don’t understand why they started hanging the drywall from floor? We always do the ceilings first then the walls and jack the drywall nice and tight . They may put a crown molding to hide the huge gaps but the next owner may not like crown moldings so this is a huge deal. Their work is clean and they tape nice and widen the joints so that they are not visible. I would give a 5* but lack of screws and not hanging the ceilings first is a huge deal. Also the glue only holds the paper of back of drywall if the house settle or move a lot am not sure it’s a great way to hang. I only used glue when requested by owner but always min 2 screws 16 and 32 inches. So a solid 4* for them. Not sure where they are but in 20 years I’ve never seen this. Only on commercial work we hang from floors as the drop ceilings will be below drywall. For. Corner bead I always cut a 4 inch peace and trim the edges and have both corners perfectly flush. We never overlaps corner beads, on windows we cut a 45 degree angle and put a small piece of bead under so it’s all tight. Next we always nail or screw then corners on top of the clincher because eventually it will get hit and crack if not nailed or screwed on, last we put a flat tape along the beads to reenforce the corners, this is by far the best way to ensure quality and durability. But you guys do clean work. I would love to know why the points I stated. Thank you for showing what clean finished coat is for all those who do shitty jobs. Lol.
It's probably a dabbed wall, think these guys are eastern Oz, where I was in WA they sand&cement and plaster skim the walls but some places dabbed plasterboard straight to the brick in this instance there wouldn't be any fixing for screws (Perth WA nearly all internal walls were brick)
@@frenchronin @Frenchronin they don't start on walls in Oz, not unless there is a reason to. As for the gap at the top they do po put a cornice up which covers it but it's not the same with all builders out there, just before I left Perth we were having to square set all ceiling internals before cornice because of a change in regulations on commercial builds. (Mainly for fire/smoke regs I believe) Also they don't overlap beads either, it's cut back at a angle forming a point and they can have a mechanical fixing as well as a mud fix. The walls be void of screws is most like because it's brick walls where the boards have been dabbed on using a plasterboard adhesive (powdered not acrylic adhesive) so no studs for a screw fixing. Also they use things called back blocks on the ceilings which are small cuts of board layered with adhesive which stick down to the back side of the plasterboard joints. I flushed out there for 7 years and each team I worked with did things slightly different. I even did a job where the ceilings were put up before the roof had gone on 😁😆 very trusting on the weather. Anything else I can answer feel free to ask. 😊
@@jamessullivan3829 It looks like stud frames to me. I haven't been able to find anything on why those gaps behind the cornice though, like are they doing ceilings that are just over 2.4 or 2.7?
On price work we don’t have time looking close up for pop holes , do you’s have coving on every residential home wish we did in uk, it’s classed as a bit old fashioned over here
Thanks for watching Paul, yeah the boys did a great job of these butt joints, i did one the other day after filming this and wasn't obviously as good but getting better using these techniques the gangsters taught me.
I'm a fulltime taper. One difference between this team and others? Some think of it as a repetitive job, these guys work it like it's an art piece. They work together so fluently as a team. Some of the best tapers in the game right here.
Thanks for sharing. Its pretty cool watching y'all use a trial and a hawk That hawk has been used a good bit. you can tell by the curvatures of the edges. I grew up finishing sheetrock with a knife and pan in the late 80s and early 90s. I have leaned so much about the new skim blades and various other techniques from all the cool channels. My dad was a drywall contractor so I subbed from him and a couple of other contractors. I also remember when the only place you could get machines like the boxes and bazooka was renting through Ames taping tools. it really went crazy when the patent ran out. You could buy them then. Again thanks for the great video. I Oh yeah what is the cream colored mud? I've never seen it that color.
It's a liquid coloring that you add to the mud . It let's you know the stages of the taping . They're doing the 2nd coat with the additive . The next coat is a skim , probably without color . Also the color is used to make touch-ups more noticeable on a primed surface .
It's a liquid coloring that you add to the mud . It let's you know the stages of the taping . They're doing the 2nd coat with the additive . The next coat is a skim , probably without color . Also the color is used to make touch-ups more noticeable on a white primed surface , so you can identify what needs to be re-primed before finish painting. You can get it everywhere here in Toronto .
Really clean work perfect for me I use apla tech 14inch coat to put mud on then I follow up with 14inch wipe down knife from tape tech that what seems to work for me speeds me up and is easy on my body ... maybe I should make a video and you guys can post it on your channel that would be cool
That is usually the job of an electrician in Australia, unlike many other countries. During rough-in (cable run) stage an electrician will have stud brackets (these are metal) nailed to timber studs where the locations of the switches, powerpoints, tv, data etc points are. Then after plaster is sanded, before cabinets are in and before paint and electrician will do the 'cut outs'. Because the stud brackets are metal you can easily find the brackets with a magnet and cut out with a plaster saw. It is also common practice to have the ground sprayed as well and also good to have a plan marked showing locations. A video also ensures nothing has been forgotten to cut out. As for the lights some sparkies use their spray marks on the ground and shoot a laser up to the ceiling. As for me I always use the sprays as I guide during rough-in even though they are spaced out accurately. Come cut out time, I will have my measurements on the plan which shows distance from wall to the first light, distance from first light to second light and etc. It is ALWAYS more accurate to measure off the ceiling by tape measure instead of shooting a laser up going off the ground. As for those sparkies who use the laser method they need to have floors cleaned spotless, make sure no materials are on the ground and make sure they actually go to the cut out before the floorboards are on or else they really are screwed. Anyhow, sure that answers your question...
Just curious why none of the rock is nailed in the field? Also I’m assuming they are doing crown moulding or something? Never seen drywall hung like that?! Fire inspectors wouldn’t let that fly here. But I’m guessing you guys are the tapers and not the rockers... you do beautiful mud work!
It's a liquid coloring that you add to the mud . It let's you know the stages of the taping . They're doing the 2nd coat with the additive . The next coat is a skim , probably without color . Also the color is used to make touch-ups more noticeable on a primed surface .
Hello, i work very much the same as you but i have never seen yellow drywall mud. What is that? Is this something you mixed? Did you add colour to premixed? If so why?
I think that's topping mud for the final coat. I know here in the states you can buy topping and it's a yellowish color instead of the tan or off white color. It's also a smoother creamier mud.
I’m sure they glue. We don’t hear, but we’d have four screws in the field on the ceiling and three on the walls-that’s not counting the one at the top or bottom of the sheet.
Depends on the walls, if it is timber/metal stud it's screwed as you would expect it to be but they use a acrylic glue as well as screws so it would be one screw at the joint two dabs of glue two screws either side of the center line then two glue dabs then a screw to the other side of the board. If they are brick interior walls then it is dabbed with a plasterboard adhesive (mud adhesive) straight to brick work which has a either rough or patterned surface to provide a key, if this is the case then there aren't any areas to get a screw fixing. There are alot of different methods out there. 😁
It seems like Americans prefer pans and knives and British and there colonials prefer hawk and trowel, but then again what did crocodile Dundee say about knives( obviously not a hawk and trowel man)
@@jimginter6802 i can use both, i prefer flat troweling final coat as it has the same finish as that large knife and doesn't leave lines like the guy in the video explained with his curved trowel and it's faster than a knife and don't have to switch between the 2 tools. I don't think region should play a role on how work is completed.
You guys are so lucky you don't have to tape the top angle i wish we didn't have too lol things would go so much quicker if we didn't have too tape the top angle and make the corners all nice
@@MV-wb2cz apparently they don’t. They instead install a crown moulding. I think the crown and caulk have an appropriate fire rating to complete the system. I’m not sure if that’s what they are using, but I’ve looked it up since I saw this and it appears to be a thing.
@@robertaylor9218 I saw some videos of them using bazooka for their inside corners which is why I assumed as such in this case. Makes sense though if they use a fire rated crown or cornice.
Dont laugh too much, but overnight the temperature here stayed around -34C. Yes, that is minus 34C and not a typo. What are you using for a mic on these videos as you record? Your voice comes through fairly well. But when one of the Drywall Gangsters is speaking, their voice sounds muffled or muted. Just a thought ... -Bob...
Didn’t understand what he was saying about putting it on taking it off. I saw him doing it he put it on removed it and put it back on was he talking about doing that for bubbles?
I can say that your work is 20 times cleaner and more professional than Mexicans and Central Americans who boast a lot about what they do. and i'm latino
I used to see finishers move like these guys but most of them got deported from the U.S . Now all you get are a couple of guys that sit on buckets talking about how they do it best and the others do it wrong.
@@dismaldog It never happens to me when i'm finishing new drywall but only seems to happen on painted surfaces that are satin/semi-gloss, sometimes on flat paint finish too but rarely.
skim blades didn't exist until recently as well, lots of current drywall finishers learned their way and are quicker. Skim blades maybe faster but are very expensive that it's not even worth buying them unless you level 5 finish massive rooms or ceilings all the time.
I've been wanting to try stitching battens or making something like buttboard. The last place we did the plasterers joined all their butts on a scrap 90x45....there was a 20 meter hallway and you could see every single joint
I’ve been in the drywall business for over 35years,I was taught using a mud pan and 6 8 10 12” taping blades.watching this guys use a hawk and trowel is extremely awesome.I wish I had that kind of skills.great job gentlemen.
This brings me back! Used to do drywall finishing in my 20's. Good times. Eventually moved up to interior carpentry finishing (doors/trim), and now I build custom cabinets. Keep up the hustle! 🤜 🤛
These guys have some really nice, clean and uniform work. I did sheetrock work for 25 years and rarely have seen this clean of a look. I would sand behind these guys ANY DAY! NICE JOB FELLAS!
These guys are amazing. That being said you can’t teach how to do this in a video. It’s a true art that is completely learned by feel and not by watching and learning. You can definitely pick up a few tips but if you don’t have the feel it can’t be done like these professionals do it. As a general contractor/ carpenter (I remodel mainly kitchens and bathrooms) I’ve been doing my own for about 20 years and while I’ve gotten better I’ll never have the feel to do it like these guys can.
Hey guys great seeing this! I'm an old drywall taper guy from years ago. We did things a little differently here in California. I used a mud pan and flat handle knives, a 6-inch for taping covering nails/screws and angles then a 10-inch then a 12-inch for finishing buts and joints. I only used a hawk and trowels while doing interior and exterior plastering. Great video!!
thank you. you dont know how helpful it is and how much i just learned from watching guys that actually know what they are doing and finish drywall for a living.
Pure machines. Tho the one thing u cant learn from this video and from any craftsman is the hand/wrist movement and feel for pressure. It May take a couple of minutes to learn that. Just kiddin. Love your work guys. It makes you feel Like you can do it yourself. Keep up the good work.
Ya a couple thousand minutes lol
Mud consistency is important too
@@ismu34 dealing with humidity as well, weather conditions, on site conditions, makes a huge difference with how the mud looks when it's cured
These guys are artists.
Nice to see the proper way to the job. Trained on hand tools using the 10 3/4" loading trowel then 103/4
" finish trowel as apposed to the knife. I find its abit more personal using hand tools. You pay more attention to the finish . Machines have there place but traditionally the tradesman takes more pride and TLC and can
show off the skills hes learned. The quality work shines and so do the faces of the clients.
Hats off to u guys. keep up the great work
Man I love watching your crew work. Excellent work as always.
Maybe you already mentioned it so I’m sorry if that’s the case but what type of mud/compound are you using?
you guys do nice work.I like to see other younger men who have beared the grooling process of learning how to finish on that level one thing i know its not as easy as we make it look keep it up I just hope i will be able to pass the buck eventually.
I love your job guys, i used to do that in vancouver. I´m from Mexico. I would love to go back.
Everyone who does it loves it my friend. What you doing now?
@@Maxkil Im in México right now working in office and eventually on tape and mud. Looking to return somehow and work overthere, any idea. ;-)
Thank's for the tip's. I never thought of putting the mud on with an 8" knife then finishing with a 12" knife seem's easy'er on the wrist then on/off with a 12". I'm going to try it!!!
We split the butts out on fill coat wit 10" box (if that is needed. Down center if hollow joint) . On second coat we triple them with a 12" box, chase with a blade. And when they are dry, we 12" box the bands straight through the butts.
good job and professional! i think our drywall joint tapes will help you make all these better!
Being a drywaller in the US for almost 20 yrs i can say that for hand finishing these guys are legit and clean. Only thing i don't like or know is why there are no screws in the field of the wall sheets ? Hmm puzzling.
Glue on studs
Glue on stud is not as effective as screws. Also I don’t understand why they started hanging the drywall from floor? We always do the ceilings first then the walls and jack the drywall nice and tight . They may put a crown molding to hide the huge gaps but the next owner may not like crown moldings so this is a huge deal. Their work is clean and they tape nice and widen the joints so that they are not visible. I would give a 5* but lack of screws and not hanging the ceilings first is a huge deal. Also the glue only holds the paper of back of drywall if the house settle or move a lot am not sure it’s a great way to hang. I only used glue when requested by owner but always min 2 screws 16 and 32 inches. So a solid 4* for them. Not sure where they are but in 20 years I’ve never seen this. Only on commercial work we hang from floors as the drop ceilings will be below drywall. For. Corner bead I always cut a 4 inch peace and trim the edges and have both corners perfectly flush. We never overlaps corner beads, on windows we cut a 45 degree angle and put a small piece of bead under so it’s all tight. Next we always nail or screw then corners on top of the clincher because eventually it will get hit and crack if not nailed or screwed on, last we put a flat tape along the beads to reenforce the corners, this is by far the best way to ensure quality and durability. But you guys do clean work. I would love to know why the points I stated. Thank you for showing what clean finished coat is for all those who do shitty jobs. Lol.
It's probably a dabbed wall, think these guys are eastern Oz, where I was in WA they sand&cement and plaster skim the walls but some places dabbed plasterboard straight to the brick in this instance there wouldn't be any fixing for screws (Perth WA nearly all internal walls were brick)
@@frenchronin @Frenchronin they don't start on walls in Oz, not unless there is a reason to. As for the gap at the top they do po put a cornice up which covers it but it's not the same with all builders out there, just before I left Perth we were having to square set all ceiling internals before cornice because of a change in regulations on commercial builds. (Mainly for fire/smoke regs I believe)
Also they don't overlap beads either, it's cut back at a angle forming a point and they can have a mechanical fixing as well as a mud fix.
The walls be void of screws is most like because it's brick walls where the boards have been dabbed on using a plasterboard adhesive (powdered not acrylic adhesive) so no studs for a screw fixing.
Also they use things called back blocks on the ceilings which are small cuts of board layered with adhesive which stick down to the back side of the plasterboard joints.
I flushed out there for 7 years and each team I worked with did things slightly different. I even did a job where the ceilings were put up before the roof had gone on 😁😆 very trusting on the weather. Anything else I can answer feel free to ask. 😊
@@jamessullivan3829 It looks like stud frames to me. I haven't been able to find anything on why those gaps behind the cornice though, like are they doing ceilings that are just over 2.4 or 2.7?
On price work we don’t have time looking close up for pop holes , do you’s have coving on every residential home wish we did in uk, it’s classed as a bit old fashioned over here
Looks great man! Nice and flat and smooth as butter!!!🔥🙌😎
Thanks for watching Paul, yeah the boys did a great job of these butt joints, i did one the other day after filming this and wasn't obviously as good but getting better using these techniques the gangsters taught me.
Im subscribed to your channel
@@Maxkil 4t5t×××awww
I am always amazed how well these guys work.
Practice it and you will be able to do it, its like any job...........
No, you must have a good 👁️👀
@@tokenpoke1661 I am in the trades and can tape, just not proficient like them. But I understand what you mean.
I'm a fulltime taper. One difference between this team and others? Some think of it as a repetitive job, these guys work it like it's an art piece. They work together so fluently as a team. Some of the best tapers in the game right here.
Good job as always guys. What brand of top coat are you using? 👍
paint you tube 안녕하십니까요,감사드립니다,,,,,You're the best teacher! Thank you so much,,,,,,,Fantastic ,,환상적인 영상입니다,,깊은 감명을 받았습니다,,님 부자되시고 행복하시길 부처님의 이름
Thanks for sharing. Its pretty cool watching y'all use a trial and a hawk That hawk has been used a good bit. you can tell by the curvatures of the edges. I grew up finishing sheetrock with a knife and pan in the late 80s and early 90s. I have leaned so much about the new skim blades and various other techniques from all the cool channels. My dad was a drywall contractor so I subbed from him and a couple of other contractors. I also remember when the only place you could get machines like the boxes and bazooka was renting through Ames taping tools. it really went crazy when the patent ran out. You could buy them then. Again thanks for the great video. I Oh yeah what is the cream colored mud? I've never seen it that color.
It's a liquid coloring that you add to the mud . It let's you know the stages of the taping . They're doing the 2nd coat with the additive . The next coat is a skim , probably without color . Also the color is used to make touch-ups more noticeable on a primed surface .
NEXT VIDEO of using the Internal corner tool - th-cam.com/video/r6EzjwRqPug/w-d-xo.html
I have. Been doing drywall 51 years i tkink wallboard make the best knives llike blue steel seems to get the wall smooth
Saludos medellín colombia 🙏🔥
You guys are simply amazing!!
Such Neat Work-great to watch the team at work
I use a hawk and trowel for stucco but find a pan and knife way easier for taping mud, plus I dont have to carry both around
yeah I later realised why they used pans, because the taping mud wont stay on a hawk, hehe
Благодарю за хорошее видео, которое помогает мне усовершенствовать мою технику работы.С уважением привет из Полтавы.Подписался на вас)
What trowels do you work with in the film. What brand, model, series and size. Great job. It's great to look at, full of professionalism.
Beautiful work man
Love the mud you guys are using. The colour of it is not white like ones we have in ontario canada.
It's a liquid coloring that you add to the mud . It let's you know the stages of the taping . They're doing the 2nd coat with the additive . The next coat is a skim , probably without color . Also the color is used to make touch-ups more noticeable on a white primed surface , so you can identify what needs to be re-primed before finish painting. You can get it everywhere here in Toronto .
Gracias por el video,buen tafabako compañeros, esa pasta amarilla?,que marca es?,gracias
Good stuff. how do you make the mud so yellow? its great. easy to see the second coat.
Yeah it comes like that with the yellow tint, so you can see the second coat from the last
@@Maxkil wow nice.
Really clean work perfect for me I use apla tech 14inch coat to put mud on then I follow up with 14inch wipe down knife from tape tech that what seems to work for me speeds me up and is easy on my body ... maybe I should make a video and you guys can post it on your channel that would be cool
What kind of knifes are those guys using?
Why don't they cut out the electrical outlets and lighting?
That is usually the job of an electrician in Australia, unlike many other countries. During rough-in (cable run) stage an electrician will have stud brackets (these are metal) nailed to timber studs where the locations of the switches, powerpoints, tv, data etc points are. Then after plaster is sanded, before cabinets are in and before paint and electrician will do the 'cut outs'. Because the stud brackets are metal you can easily find the brackets with a magnet and cut out with a plaster saw. It is also common practice to have the ground sprayed as well and also good to have a plan marked showing locations. A video also ensures nothing has been forgotten to cut out.
As for the lights some sparkies use their spray marks on the ground and shoot a laser up to the ceiling. As for me I always use the sprays as I guide during rough-in even though they are spaced out accurately. Come cut out time, I will have my measurements on the plan which shows distance from wall to the first light, distance from first light to second light and etc. It is ALWAYS more accurate to measure off the ceiling by tape measure instead of shooting a laser up going off the ground. As for those sparkies who use the laser method they need to have floors cleaned spotless, make sure no materials are on the ground and make sure they actually go to the cut out before the floorboards are on or else they really are screwed. Anyhow, sure that answers your question...
Hey max how long does it take for the boys too do a house??
I reckon they can finnish 700m+...probably 1000m easily. Just depends on compound drying time
@@schuey2003 I with you
About 8 hours I'd say, 6 hours first day, taping and 2nd coat and come back the following afternoon and top it out after they start another one.
Good job 👍👍👍 i from Russia 😉😎
Just curious why none of the rock is nailed in the field? Also I’m assuming they are doing crown moulding or something? Never seen drywall hung like that?! Fire inspectors wouldn’t let that fly here. But I’m guessing you guys are the tapers and not the rockers... you do beautiful mud work!
fire inspectors would never pass normal white board haha, gotta use firecheck pink sheets for that
I also wondered why there is like a 1 inch gap around the entire home between the ceiling and wall
@@derekk2300 our crown mold or cornice is made from the same material as the board them selves. no need to go tight unless its square set
@@brocksinclair66 oh nice, right on. Thanks for the explanation
Im curious why I’ve seen in multiple of your buildings the ceiling corners are hollow - what are you guys building in the ceiling corners over there?
Probably doing a crown moulding .
Yes mate
Beautiful plastering
Do u guys know about the concave side on the knives
What brand of broad knife are you using?
What is with the corners? Those gaps are massive! Crown molding? Must find out!
Do these guys use mud boxes or do they just lay it all by hand??????????
What material for compound you used
Good question
Nice job mate! Wish I could find that tinted mud here in the states!
If you use topping mud it’s that color use on last coat
@Aaron L I use yellow food colouring heh
you can but a liquid color additive made specifically for taping .
It's a liquid coloring that you add to the mud . It let's you know the stages of the taping . They're doing the 2nd coat with the additive . The next coat is a skim , probably without color . Also the color is used to make touch-ups more noticeable on a primed surface .
Excellent job ..but sometimes too much wipe down, don't you think. Or is that just for the video.
Hello, i work very much the same as you but i have never seen yellow drywall mud. What is that? Is this something you mixed? Did you add colour to premixed? If so why?
I was just going to ask the same thing is it an Aussie / New Zealand thing?
I think that's topping mud for the final coat. I know here in the states you can buy topping and it's a yellowish color instead of the tan or off white color. It's also a smoother creamier mud.
It's weird 😕right
@@johnwallace1729 it's a brand thing
Great work and video!!! Thanks for the knowledge! Here in TX I just see one coat. What compounds do you use one the 1st, 2nd and 3rd coats?
A setting compound for tape and two coats. Then a drying type for the finish coat.
@@ismu34 just two coats of base coat which is hard then 1 of top coat which is softer and sands easier
@@brocksinclair66 thats what I said lol
Crazy how they leave the top corners out. Is that for crown?, or A/C? or ???.
thank you for video just want to know the leg tools name that you use to reach the high level job..
I believe they’re called stilts
Hey mate do you guys use stainless taping knifes or are they carbon Steel?? Your work is unreal, im a big fan
What’s with the gap at the ceiling? How is that treated?
Cornice
in AUS we use a cornice made of the same material as the sheets. no need to go tight
I’m assuming you guys glue the walls as well since you only have one screw in the field. What kind of glue do you use, and is it metals studs or wood?
I was wondering that myself. How do they attach the drywall with so few screw holes?
I’m sure they glue. We don’t hear, but we’d have four screws in the field on the ceiling and three on the walls-that’s not counting the one at the top or bottom of the sheet.
Yeah most residential units have their walls glued and their drywall hung horizontally
Depends on the walls, if it is timber/metal stud it's screwed as you would expect it to be but they use a acrylic glue as well as screws so it would be one screw at the joint two dabs of glue two screws either side of the center line then two glue dabs then a screw to the other side of the board.
If they are brick interior walls then it is dabbed with a plasterboard adhesive (mud adhesive) straight to brick work which has a either rough or patterned surface to provide a key, if this is the case then there aren't any areas to get a screw fixing.
There are alot of different methods out there. 😁
@@KevinsDisobedience the stud adhesive here is strong. the screws are the until thew glue dries. the glue is stronger
What is the mud used on the skim coats. Why the color difference?
What type of Sheetrock boards do you guys like if you’re not gonna plaster?
You guys do nice work.
Why dose the mud look yellow? Or is it just the lighting?
Why is there a gap between the ceiling and walls? Here in Arizona they push the drywall up tight against the ceiling and finish the corner.
Probably doing a crown moulding .
Hi guys, with butt joins I have joined off stud/batten and packed with a 3mm packer and back blocked .
Do you guys do that.thanks Mark
Great job lads
How many coats is it needed?
3
That age old question... The trowel & hawk or the knife & pan... Which do you prefer??? Or even do you prefer both???
It seems like Americans prefer pans and knives and British and there colonials prefer hawk and trowel, but then again what did crocodile Dundee say about knives( obviously not a hawk and trowel man)
@@jimginter6802 i can use both, i prefer flat troweling final coat as it has the same finish as that large knife and doesn't leave lines like the guy in the video explained with his curved trowel and it's faster than a knife and don't have to switch between the 2 tools. I don't think region should play a role on how work is completed.
Já assisti a esse vídeo umas 200 vezes e não consigo fazer igual 🤣
You guys are so lucky you don't have to tape the top angle i wish we didn't have too lol things would go so much quicker if we didn't have too tape the top angle and make the corners all nice
I still wonder how they deal with firetaping for that seam
@@robertaylor9218 i think they use a bazooka for those inside corners
@@MV-wb2cz apparently they don’t. They instead install a crown moulding. I think the crown and caulk have an appropriate fire rating to complete the system. I’m not sure if that’s what they are using, but I’ve looked it up since I saw this and it appears to be a thing.
@@robertaylor9218 I saw some videos of them using bazooka for their inside corners which is why I assumed as such in this case. Makes sense though if they use a fire rated crown or cornice.
How come you guys don't box your corner bead? Just a question. clearly you guys do excellent work.
Blades go dull quickly on those boxes doing that
I am doing the same thing.
so good!
jeni me te vertete MASTORE
Do you guys sand at all? I mean, it looks like you don’t... impressive!
Just lite sanding.. no more.. !)
What about the top of the walls the gap at the inside corner
bazooka them for first coat, then either hand finish or machine finish inside corners
@@MV-wb2cz nah they use cornice for those gaps.
One profesi, i'am from indonesia🇮🇩
Dont laugh too much, but overnight the temperature here stayed around -34C. Yes, that is minus 34C and not a typo. What are you using for a mic on these videos as you record? Your voice comes through fairly well. But when one of the Drywall Gangsters is speaking, their voice sounds muffled or muted. Just a thought ... -Bob...
I’m a plasterer from England, any reason why you’re using your trowel upside down lol
its cool
so, he can hold it and the Hauk better in 1 hand without flipping it over constantly
Great work
why are the ceiling inside corners like that? the gap, why is it there?
You guys run the box down the middle of the butt first?
Curious, why is there a gap between the wall and ceiling?
Cornice
Why is it in yellow color? Newbie question ;)
Didn’t understand what he was saying about putting it on taking it off. I saw him doing it he put it on removed it and put it back on was he talking about doing that for bubbles?
Yeah it's for the bubbles.
What type of Compound are you using?
Pretty sure it’s topping compound, all purpose to set the tape.
Excelente, ótimo profissional
Why is the finish mud yellow
Slinging 2 razor sharp knives with skills
where are the screws at?
I can say that your work is 20 times cleaner and more professional than Mexicans and Central Americans who boast a lot about what they do.
and i'm latino
Why do you guys leave such large gaps at the ceilings?
spread that skimcoat with a roller on the ceiling and on the wall then use a trowel its much easier and so much faster!
Some places they use the color mud but it most places in New York is US G in New York when you say skim coating that we skim the whole wall
Awesome work. 🤙
I can't hear a word they're saying though. 😆
I used to see finishers move like these guys but most of them got deported from the U.S . Now all you get are a couple of guys that sit on buckets talking about how they do it best and the others do it wrong.
Whats the cause of pin holes and bubbling when plastering?
Your mud might be to thick or you're leaving to much mud on what your coating.
i get it over painted or sealed surfaces-no suction so air comes back out to surface
@@dismaldog It never happens to me when i'm finishing new drywall but only seems to happen on painted surfaces that are satin/semi-gloss, sometimes on flat paint finish too but rarely.
Good video
any reason they don't use the skim blades?
skim blades didn't exist until recently as well, lots of current drywall finishers learned their way and are quicker. Skim blades maybe faster but are very expensive that it's not even worth buying them unless you level 5 finish massive rooms or ceilings all the time.
I would like to apply in your company sir 😊im also a painter
Great job but one thing as a professional taper always apply the mud one way clean up opposite way it's better finish and less holes on the mud.
interesting
you are correct!
Hi,mi friend good day)))dis job ,in US?
Australia bro 🤙
They are Aussie !)
I've been wanting to try stitching battens or making something like buttboard. The last place we did the plasterers joined all their butts on a scrap 90x45....there was a 20 meter hallway and you could see every single joint