Hello sir i am eric,i am filipino but im here now in saudi arabia for job fabricator ..i am profesional stainless polisher and finisher ..about that your hairline finish.for me..i use flap disc #80 and 220 sand paper only.then scratch bright or hairline machine..i try to apply any country as fabricator stainless polisher and finisher.keep a good work sir.godbless..
The attention to detail on these is just fantastic. It's pretty genius to take this pro level work and break it down so even a rookie can follow and understand.
I’ve been doing fairly well on stainless miters but nothing to this standard. Hence the reason I’m browsing TH-cam. This was exactly what I was looking for to take me to the level I wanted.
It does look good when you finished it. I use stainless steel tape and a line sander so there's no hand work except on inside corners. Also when I finish tig welding an inside corner I let it cool for a few seconds and then using one of those toothbrush size stainless wire brushes that I ground to a pointed edge down the length of the head, I brush it to remove all the color. It brushes off easily when it's hot but not too hot. Another thing I like to do on thin wall tubing joints is to put a flat piece of stainless inside behind the weld joint so it doesn't shrink and make a dip in the surface. I noticed you had to work a good bit on getting the last bit of flaw in the surface probably because the surface had shrunken down from heat shrinkage. The inner piece works very well on straight joints in round tubing. Without it after blending the joint a low spot will be noticeable especially if it's mirror polished. It does take a precision disc but if it's thick enough it also aligns the joint perfectly.
Really fantastic to watch your process. I've been searching for abrasive process videos like this as it seems YT is a bit lacking on this kind of tutorial. Seeing is learning and you did a great job showing so thanks very much.
I Love this! I work for ELKAY Manufacturing in Broadview, Illinois, in the US (just outside of Chicago). I work in a custom & industrial scullery dept. I love the way that you did the maitre weld! We actually use cylindrical grinding stones (and 100-grit "highlight") on ours, but I actually prefer the way you demonstrated... At least for maitred corners. Thank you for the video! P.S. in the mid-2000s, when our location still made a wide variety of kitchen sinks, our plant was featured in a television program called "How It's Made." The filming took place during 2nd shift, about a year or 2 after I moved to 1st shift (I was really hoping to be on the show!). Anyhow, I DID know all of the people who were featured in the program. Our plant still makes SOME kitchen sinks, but mostly industrial and custom sinks, as well as drinking fountains (I think everyone has used an "ELKAY" drinking fountain at some point, as we are world-wide, though mostly in the 🇺🇸, with plants in 🇨🇦, 🇲🇽, and even a couple in 🇨🇳.
Thanks for the comment Stanley, I appreciate your kind words on the technique I used. It means a lot coming from a professional in the field. A lot of people think you need expensive equipment to get great results. I will have to check out the how its made program.
Thank you for the great video! This is solid work! beautiful! I'll have to try this with aluminum. I usually end up burning calories hand sanding with a hard block for max flatness, but this looks as flat as it needs to be.
For the inside corner i like to use the 3 m bristle brush great finish. Also iike to use a rpm regulated angle grinder. On slow speed for al the grinding. Less heat less wear on the pads and the same grinding time. I also use 3m cunriton disc
Great work. I started to work with inox brushing and i have big box shaped parts wich have to be welded on corners, so my question is there the way to blend welds to not brush all surfaces, the part is made of brushed sheets
Hey BMWM20, great question. Yes you can do it. But 90% of the work is making sure the 2 edges have no gaps between them. Then you can fuse the two pieces with no filler wire. I like to have a thick piece of aluminium angle behind it to take the heat away, while keeping everything square. All going well you only need to touch the weld its and not anywhere else. I would use a unitised disc. Hope that helps
Great to find a video targeted at people with basic equipment, big thanks! We would like to use stainless steel channel to edge our kitchen end panels, no welding involved. What would you recommend to achieve a simple clean easy to maintain brushed finish along the length? Would abrasive pads alone be enough or would we need a cylindrical pad too? Appreciate your advice, thanks again! 😃
Hi, to maintain the grain a good quality red abrasive pad would be fine. Use a very small amount of kerosene with the pad. Use a sanding block to evenly spread the pad over the whole surface. Just do one continuous stroke over each length until you are happy with the look. Changing directions will be very noticeable. Warm soapy water to remove the kerosene with a clean cloth and follow the same one direction method. I am glad you found the video helpful and I hipe that helps. Cheers.
Hey Tom, thanks for the comment. You are 100% correct there. I do the same, I wanted to show how you can do it with very few tools or products. I have another video on using a burnisher for faster results where I will use the thin sheet.
Cheers Matt, it is a black non woven pad made by SIA Abrasives. It wasn't on Amazon so I couldn't link to it. If you are in the US try these guys www.shopjfi.com/sia-abrasives-6-x-9-black-medium-non-woven-flexible-hand-pad-10-pc-bag.html
A weld with no undercut would have to be one of the most important factors for success when finishing stainless like this, I personally believe you weren't super efficient but the outcome was pretty good.
I often find myself having undercut with these types of joint welds too, and grinding the weld clean can be a pain in the ass. How do you do it? Weld colder? Thicker filler rod? Or higher amps but way quicker travel speed? Problem is I don't want to compromise on the penetration.
@@Lonx2reel2breel torch angle is a big one. Usually you can see the undercut as you’re welding and can go back and fill it. Just make sure to burn into the edges of your bevel. Also, this guy making the video did a lot of grinding. Usually if undercut appears after a couple good passes with a sanding disk, its a good idea to go back and fill the undercut with weld then continue sanding. He might’ve dishes out the corner but we wouldn’t know because he didn’t put a straight edge across it.
Hey Fabian, if the scratches aren't to bad on the fridge use red scotch brite pad. The pad will need to be on a sanding block. Use a small amount of kerosene as a cutting lubricant. Keep in line with the grain of the stainless (very important) and each stroke needs to be the full length of the fridge or you will notice the changes in direction. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the tip, @gGeorge96! The idea of using 80 and 120 grit crosspads on a die grinder for grinding inside corner welds sounds like a great technique. I'm definitely going to give it a try in my upcoming build. The addition of 3M bristle discs seems like it would provide a really nice finish too. Always appreciate learning new methods and techniques that can improve the quality and efficiency of the work. Looking forward to applying this in my project. Cheers!
@@weldingempire yeah you can see my progress on reddit. Im Pokemonwelder on Reddit. Your the one who helped me out on there a video about scratch start hahah. www.reddit.com/u/PokemonWelder?
Sure can, Abrasflex sells the 3M range of the pads. Or black woods. I find a few good deals on Ebay or AliExpress if you are prepared to wait a month or so.
I'm having a steel door built for a house entry and I wanted to have a smooth joint where you cant tell differen't steel pipes have been welded together.
Get the sharp look of the miter polish without the big dollar equipment. Remember to subscribe to my channel so get the know-how on welding projects.
What kind of tape is best to use ?
Hello sir i am eric,i am filipino but im here now in saudi arabia for job fabricator ..i am profesional stainless polisher and finisher ..about that your hairline finish.for me..i use flap disc #80 and 220 sand paper only.then scratch bright or hairline machine..i try to apply any country as fabricator stainless polisher and finisher.keep a good work sir.godbless..
The attention to detail on these is just fantastic. It's pretty genius to take this pro level work and break it down so even a rookie can follow and understand.
Thanks for the feed back. I was worried that some of the detail may have been lost with the speed at which I set the video during the polishing.
I’ve been doing fairly well on stainless miters but nothing to this standard. Hence the reason I’m browsing TH-cam. This was exactly what I was looking for to take me to the level I wanted.
"And if you didn't like the video, hit the dislike button twice" ahh man, brilliant mate hahaha I'm gna have to take that one with me :)
you are the best teacher for the ss polishing.
Thanks William. 👍 Glad you found it helpful.
I love how clean those blends look. It makes it look like the tube is casted as a single piece!
Cheers. It does finish of stainless nicely.
@@weldingempire bro after using sanding disc grit 80 I got marks look like scratching marks How can I clean it please suggest
Thank you for the detailed explanation, as a 36 year old woman who has never welded and has no plans to ever weld anything this was incredibly helpful
Glad to help 😃
It does look good when you finished it. I use stainless steel tape and a line sander so there's no hand work except on inside corners. Also when I finish tig welding an inside corner I let it cool for a few seconds and then using one of those toothbrush size stainless wire brushes that I ground to a pointed edge down the length of the head, I brush it to remove all the color. It brushes off easily when it's hot but not too hot. Another thing I like to do on thin wall tubing joints is to put a flat piece of stainless inside behind the weld joint so it doesn't shrink and make a dip in the surface. I noticed you had to work a good bit on getting the last bit of flaw in the surface probably because the surface had shrunken down from heat shrinkage. The inner piece works very well on straight joints in round tubing. Without it after blending the joint a low spot will be noticeable especially if it's mirror polished. It does take a precision disc but if it's thick enough it also aligns the joint perfectly.
Hey Xmradio11. Thanks for your comment. I will definitely use a backing strip on the next one. Cheers for sharing your knowledge. 👍
Really fantastic to watch your process. I've been searching for abrasive process videos like this as it seems YT is a bit lacking on this kind of tutorial. Seeing is learning and you did a great job showing so thanks very much.
I really appreciate your kind words. Glad I could help Paul.
I Love this! I work for ELKAY Manufacturing in Broadview, Illinois, in the US (just outside of Chicago). I work in a custom & industrial scullery dept. I love the way that you did the maitre weld! We actually use cylindrical grinding stones (and 100-grit "highlight") on ours, but I actually prefer the way you demonstrated... At least for maitred corners. Thank you for the video!
P.S. in the mid-2000s, when our location still made a wide variety of kitchen sinks, our plant was featured in a television program called "How It's Made." The filming took place during 2nd shift, about a year or 2 after I moved to 1st shift (I was really hoping to be on the show!). Anyhow, I DID know all of the people who were featured in the program.
Our plant still makes SOME kitchen sinks, but mostly industrial and custom sinks, as well as drinking fountains (I think everyone has used an "ELKAY" drinking fountain at some point, as we are world-wide, though mostly in the 🇺🇸, with plants in 🇨🇦, 🇲🇽, and even a couple in 🇨🇳.
Thanks for the comment Stanley, I appreciate your kind words on the technique I used. It means a lot coming from a professional in the field. A lot of people think you need expensive equipment to get great results. I will have to check out the how its made program.
This is my current Work in dubai.....very easy to make
Wasn't so interested in the miter polish, as much as I was how to polish out a weld to mirror finish, so this was helpful!
Glad I could help Element of kindness.
Great video. Thank you for the short version. No need for this to take 50 minutes to explain
Glad it was helpful!
I did grain detail alot when I was younger takes me back great work 👏 👍
Thanks GC welds, stainless looks awesome when done right.
Thank you for sharing, I’d love more videos on finishes, tips and tricks for stainless
If you want any polishing machine,you can contact me
The tape on the miters is a simple and brilliant solution to grain direction. I'll definitely use it.👍
Cheers. I'm glad you found the video helpful 👍
@@weldingempire brother first blade name please ???
Hey, it's an 80grit sanding pad.
@@weldingempire thanks boss ✌🏻
You will need to to use 120grit next then the red scotch brite pad. This will leave very fine scratches. Then use grey to make it even finer.
Super video and thanks for the links to products and the details that make this video perfect for me
Cheers, I am glad you found it helpful 👍
Beautiful work, man!
The polishing and that iron throne at the back 😂
Cheers mate. Glad you liked the video. The throne weighs a tone with all the MIG guns😅
@@weldingempire i want a tutorial for that one, im afraid 😂
I really like these videos that you're posting. Great Job.
This is so pleasant to watch, thanks.
Cheers mate. I am glad you liked it.
Great little video well explained!
Thanks Paolo, Glad you liked it.
Very nice demo👏👍
Nice work fellow craftsman!
Cheers for taking the time to comment. It gives me a kick knowing I am helping others.
Such an informative video. Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Thank you for the great video! This is solid work! beautiful! I'll have to try this with aluminum. I usually end up burning calories hand sanding with a hard block for max flatness, but this looks as flat as it needs to be.
Cheers Brian, much appreciated. I used to use a DA sander for a lot of the final stages with aluminum, when I was in that industry.
Great lesson thanks
My pleasure!
I like your videos by hand tools grinding,but I also like our machines grinding this
Thanks I'm glad you liked it. What machines do you have for this type of work?
@@weldingempire please add me
Great vid. Where is the link to the video of polishing the entire piece, not just the miters. Any ideas of removing deep mill scale?
The material has the brushed finish. Removing mill scale is a massive time sink and expensive with consumables.
thankyou for the vdo may i know whats the spray ur using for polishing thanks
Hi @mdwaliullah1750 , it's just water to cool the thin wall stainless steel.
For the inside corner i like to use the 3 m bristle brush great finish. Also iike to use a rpm regulated angle grinder. On slow speed for al the grinding. Less heat less wear on the pads and the same grinding time. I also use 3m cunriton disc
Thanks for the comment just make it. I live that idea. I will try in the next project.
Great work. I started to work with inox brushing and i have big box shaped parts wich have to be welded on corners, so my question is there the way to blend welds to not brush all surfaces, the part is made of brushed sheets
Hey BMWM20, great question. Yes you can do it. But 90% of the work is making sure the 2 edges have no gaps between them. Then you can fuse the two pieces with no filler wire. I like to have a thick piece of aluminium angle behind it to take the heat away, while keeping everything square. All going well you only need to touch the weld its and not anywhere else. I would use a unitised disc. Hope that helps
@@weldingempire Thanks on answer
Great to find a video targeted at people with basic equipment, big thanks! We would like to use stainless steel channel to edge our kitchen end panels, no welding involved. What would you recommend to achieve a simple clean easy to maintain brushed finish along the length? Would abrasive pads alone be enough or would we need a cylindrical pad too? Appreciate your advice, thanks again! 😃
Hi, to maintain the grain a good quality red abrasive pad would be fine. Use a very small amount of kerosene with the pad. Use a sanding block to evenly spread the pad over the whole surface. Just do one continuous stroke over each length until you are happy with the look. Changing directions will be very noticeable. Warm soapy water to remove the kerosene with a clean cloth and follow the same one direction method. I am glad you found the video helpful and I hipe that helps. Cheers.
@@weldingempire wonderful, thanks for the advice, much appreciated!
I do a lot of this type of work, mostly stainless handrail. Instead of tape I find it easier to clamp a very thin piece of copper to the miter.
Hey Tom, thanks for the comment. You are 100% correct there. I do the same, I wanted to show how you can do it with very few tools or products. I have another video on using a burnisher for faster results where I will use the thin sheet.
I use stainless steel tape from McMaster Carr.
What is it you used after the abrasive pad at 3:10 seconds? Otherwise very informative 👍
Cheers Matt, it is a black non woven pad made by SIA Abrasives. It wasn't on Amazon so I couldn't link to it. If you are in the US try these guys www.shopjfi.com/sia-abrasives-6-x-9-black-medium-non-woven-flexible-hand-pad-10-pc-bag.html
Really good video
Thanks for the comment. Have a great new year.
Well done!
Cheers 👍
Very easy!! I can do it.
Awesome work! Is it possible to polish weldings on alloy, eg. alloy bike frame?
Hey, are you looking to remove the welds or polish to a high shine?
@@weldingempire Polish, but high shine it's not necessary. I am afraid if I would completly remove welds off the surface, frame could break 😅
If the weld hasn't been designed to to polished out it would make the weld to weak.
Use my product- th-cam.com/video/dmQR3HqbrOo/w-d-xo.html
A weld with no undercut would have to be one of the most important factors for success when finishing stainless like this, I personally believe you weren't super efficient but the outcome was pretty good.
Thanks for your your comment. I have a burnisher to do it faster but the video was to demonstrate how you don't need expensive equipment.
@@weldingempire bro actually I have to remove a welded nut from the steel can this process work ✌🏻??
I often find myself having undercut with these types of joint welds too, and grinding the weld clean can be a pain in the ass. How do you do it? Weld colder? Thicker filler rod? Or higher amps but way quicker travel speed? Problem is I don't want to compromise on the penetration.
@@Lonx2reel2breel torch angle is a big one. Usually you can see the undercut as you’re welding and can go back and fill it. Just make sure to burn into the edges of your bevel. Also, this guy making the video did a lot of grinding. Usually if undercut appears after a couple good passes with a sanding disk, its a good idea to go back and fill the undercut with weld then continue sanding. He might’ve dishes out the corner but we wouldn’t know because he didn’t put a straight edge across it.
Is there a shortcut to these steps to just renew or refresh the finish on a stainless steel commercial refrigerator?
Hey Fabian, if the scratches aren't to bad on the fridge use red scotch brite pad. The pad will need to be on a sanding block. Use a small amount of kerosene as a cutting lubricant. Keep in line with the grain of the stainless (very important) and each stroke needs to be the full length of the fridge or you will notice the changes in direction. Hope that helps.
For grinding that inside corner weld, 80 and 120 grit crosspads on die grinder, then or bristle discs from 3m.
Thanks for the tip, @gGeorge96! The idea of using 80 and 120 grit crosspads on a die grinder for grinding inside corner welds sounds like a great technique. I'm definitely going to give it a try in my upcoming build. The addition of 3M bristle discs seems like it would provide a really nice finish too. Always appreciate learning new methods and techniques that can improve the quality and efficiency of the work. Looking forward to applying this in my project. Cheers!
Absolutely man. Excellent video btw. Cheers
Very Nice👍
Good job
Thanks
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Hello, what kind of welding machine are you using?
Hey Asgar, I am using a yeswelder or a unimig Razor weld.
You the man thanks so much
Hey Julius, thanks for the comment Are you working on a project like this?
@@weldingempire yeah you can see my progress on reddit. Im Pokemonwelder on Reddit. Your the one who helped me out on there a video about scratch start hahah.
www.reddit.com/u/PokemonWelder?
This is almost exactly how I do miters on square tube, except I scribe a line across just to add a little extra definition to the miter.
Renotec Abrasives, leading supplier in China since 2005, Renotec brands Jumbo Rolls , SCM, nonwoven, Deerfos,etc.
Thanks for the info. I will look into your brand. 👍
Can you buy the pads/discs locally (Aus)?
Sure can, Abrasflex sells the 3M range of the pads. Or black woods. I find a few good deals on Ebay or AliExpress if you are prepared to wait a month or so.
So you are using angle grinder with no adjustment of rpm? Only max 10.000?
Hey Luka, yes I was using a standard grinder. I am glad you found the video helpful.
Sir need those pads please
Hey Rain Infula There are links to the items used in the video description. Otherwise Amazon and Ebay will have what you are looking for.
@@weldingempire thank you very much for reply
I'm having a steel door built for a house entry and I wanted to have a smooth joint where you cant tell differen't steel pipes have been welded together.
Let me know how they turn out.
Nice 🎉
Thanks 🤗
wow!
Thank you. I am glad you enjoyed the video.
Can you write me what the disc number
What they call please
I know little English that why
Hi Edward, the 1st is 80 grit
2nd is 120
3rd is non woven pad/ red
4th is non-woven pad/ blue
5th is a unitised pad.
I hope that helps.
Gud joop
Great video but way to fast
Thanks for the feedback. I will do the next polishing video slower with more details.
👍🏻
ur subscribe button is spelled wrong
Mean
I disliked this so much I hit the dislike button 100 times, exactly 100. Great video.
Bruv I ain‘t understand a word
Ну да…. Выглядит классно. Но совсем не эффективно . Когда нужно 3-5 сотен деталей в день зачистить
Thanks for your comment. I understand. This is for people who don't have burnishers. But would still like to produce the look for their project.