Thank you! So nice to find a tutorial that actually goes through what to do, why and how without flying through it. I've been going nuts for days trying to learn firmware and this video broke it down just like I needed. Thanks again!
I have been enhancing my CAD skills and 3D printing for 6 months now... I found your presentation earlier this week and I made time to watch this morning. This is brilliant. I have viewed many other "similar" presentations that do not go to this level because the presenters assume that beginners know all about Marlin. This is exactly what I needed to help me set up my Marlin Software. Thankyou from Sydney Australia for creating a very educational video.
Absolutely HUGE thank you for this. Iv'e currently been having issues with steps on my CR10-S and needed to update firmware. This is very concise and excellently explained
Nice video! One comment on the encoders (@ 23:20); most common setup for quadrature encoders is four pulses per notch, it is best to set pulses per step to 4 and steps per menu item to 1 (or 2, if you want to be absolutely sure the menu item scrolling is deliberate). The original CR-10 uses the 1/5 setup and it's *infuriating* as each notch changes the adjustable values by four and the menu items slowly go out of sync.
Interesting that these differ form the CR-10 example configuration file included with Marlin - I didn't expect that, particular the axis inversion. Thanks for the info.
This was very helpful......but I got a little lost towards the end in trying to keep up with the marlin v2.x that is out now. Things are quite in alignment......and I'm a n0ob.
You know .... I’ve been plugging away at trying to understand this process. I really appreciate all ur work and weekly sessions. Here is what needs to be added in explanation for the lay person. I have been under the impression that you ran Arduino and Marlin in two separate programs. Until just now did the bell ring when you said .... open Marlin.ino and that will push the Arduino.IDE to open with Marlin running in it. Jumping Judis ..... I’ve been beating my head against the wall thinking i was suppose to use Marlin to open the Hex file I had. Da, on my part. Thanks so much. Now here’s the Question from me now I understand it. What Marlin.INO do I use for CR10S Pro ... thanks again
This is the most easy Marlin walk-trough video I ever watched. Good job, thank you! By the way, is this tutorial for the V2.0 or V2.1 board on the CR-10S?
So i installed the great mico swiss hot end.... it suppose to heat to 300 C.... What is the setting to change... Only because you did i micro swiss change out yourself but no setting were show how to change temp to 300 C.
Just a question on your MAX FEED RATE speeds you are using 2500 as mm/s or mm/min otherwise that value is way too high and you will skip steps hope you can clarify great video.
I just noticed on your video you have the line number showing on the left side all the way down. How did you do you accomplish that? I just looked up how to do it and see a bunch of comments of only being able to see what line your cursor is on on the bottom left. Thanks for the video I don't have a CR-10S even though I wish I could afford one. This worked well for my FLSUN i3 Prusa though. There really is a lack of firmware videos.
Hi Bud, Thanks for the great question. once you open the arduino IDE click on the file drop down menu and click preferences near the end of the list. This will open a new widow, them click the box next to Display line numbers. That's all there is to it.
I hope I haven't pooched my printer. Yesterday, based on your previous session, I tested the serial monitor and got garbage below 250,000. (Then, for some reason, I set it back to the lower default). Then I verified and uploaded the file (wish I'd seen this episode first) but the result is that now my CR-10S LCD only shows a blank screen when I power it up. So, how do I recover? Thanks for the great tutorials. I have some more questions but I have to get it running first.
Hi, this is Chris in Bulgaria, my new CR10S motherboard arrived. Got it fitted and it makes and beeping noise. Well, it looks like the cure is putting in the new firmware. So for about the third time of me watching this video, I started to go line by line to what you have done here. I went to the advanced section, minute 27 on your video and I noticed that some script was overlapping which I managed to correct and I can now read it. But, I noticed more and more. Is this normal? I adjusted a few more lines and thought I might be wasting my time, or I could be making things correct. The Marlin was downloaded today, 10th of June. Should I clean it all up, or is it ok? Big storms here in Bulgaria. Long live PLA, Chris
Great video to help upgrade the Marlin firmware. I needed to only change the size of the print board from 300 to 500x500x500 as this firmware will go on the CR-10 S5. Just one question, do I have to have the connected to the Cr-10 S5 before compiling, because I keep getting an error - Arduino Mega ADK. I've gone to Tools>Board>Arduino Genino Mega/2560 but still I get the error.
FIXED: I went into Sketch>Include Library>Manage Libraries This will load up the Library Manager so I can download U8glib.h file Once that was installed, I recompiled and everything was seemed okay. The final message was Done Compiling. Then it gave me a message about how much memory is used. I guess that's it.
I'm going crazy trying to find information and a walkthrough for slice engineering upgraded 300c heat cartridge for the cr10 max, cant even find mainboard type.....
I recently picked up a used CR-10 (not the S) and have leveled the bed and set to end stops. I'm not new to 3d Printing, but have hit a snag with this printer. when i start a print, it starts trying to print 2+mm off the bed. I do not have a bl-touch or any other leveling accessory. It is bone stock. the z-axis is set to put the nozzle on the bed. I cant adjust the end stop any further down or the hotend will push into the bed. I cant figure out how to get my computer to read the Marlin off the printer to look and see if there is a problem in the code. Any ideas or suggestions? I am running windows 10 and Arduino IDE 2.1.0.
Hello. Xloader finishes updating with 0 bytes updated message. also cura is stucked at firmware upload pgress bar. promterface is OK with connecting and managing printer. any ideas? changed all baud rates and tried. firmware file is confirmed with tinymachines support. its CR10Pro_Stock_BIL_DW5.hex as of Feb.20
Did you ever made a cr10s Marlin config for a bed leveling sensor? I am installing a probe and having much trouble with homing and also bed leveling. The machine goes almost out of the bed when homing. It would be great help if you could guide me. I have follow many of your videos and have been great help.
Great Video! Do you know what is needed to enable the Menu Option "Z-Offset" under Control/Motion menu? Thanks a lot. (I've been googleing it for a while and could not find)
Great Help. Thank you.. One question. Where can I redefine the home position of the nozzle when clicking auto home? The hot end will sit on the bed when it is homed.. I want to select home, and have the printer home and lift the head 3 to 5 mm from the bed ..
I have a MINGDA GLITAR 6C it is a Chinese large format 3d printer. Very difficult to get support for this machine so I wonder if it is possible to use a different control unit like the CR-10s. How difficult is it to replace the Andciv board with a new set up?
Greetings, I found out that the Sunlu S9Plus printer I have uses the CR10S parameters, would that be the same firmware as Creality's? And or, can you please do a firmware how to on the Sunlu S9Plus, please. Thank you for all you do.
Hello, Love the tutorial. I have a CR10S5 (purchased dec.2018) and would like to upgrade to the newer version of Marlin by following your directions. I am wondering why you do not enable Linear advance...this seems to be a hot topic the last months for it seems to offer great results while printing. (line 681 in configuration_adv.h). Also i would (in a later stage) like to upgrade to a 32 bit board. Would these settings be the same and what Board would you recomend (do not need ethernet or wifi). Thanks for your time to reply. Jurgen Belgium
My CR-10S is showing 80 , 80 , 400 , 93 for Default Axis Steps Per Unit on the stock firmware. Did Creality change something? Both the version 2.0 and 2.1 boards I have had the 93 for the extruder value.
Is this the same setup used for the CR 10s Pro. My guess there would be a different choice for the motherboard in “boards h “. What would that choice be. Thanks for the video.
I used Arduino 1.6 and Marlin 1.1.9 and followed your procedural changes. There is about 100 lines more code in 1.6 someplace early in the content, but it wasnt really difficult to find the lines in your discussion. Just add 100 and search around. Compiler didnt suceed. (chuckles)
hi i have followed your video step by step and i saw there was a correction you described for one of your followers i got the same error i corrected 1167 in the configuration.H and i get this error Arduino: 1.8.5 (Windows Store 1.8.10.0) (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:33:0, from C:\Users\Dude\Desktop\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31: Configuration_adv.h:1577: error: #endif without #if #endif // CONFIGURATION_ADV_H ^ C:\Users\Dude\Desktop\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:45:110: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory #include // library for graphics LCD by Oli Kraus (github.com/olikraus/U8glib_Arduino) ^ compilation terminated. exit status 1 #endif without #if This report would have more information with "Show verbose output during compilation" option enabled in File -> Preferences. please help me.
Used the exact settings here on a knockoff CR-10S that replaced with a creality 2.1 board and display. Works nice except it insists to print around 1mm or so too low despite several bed levelings and even the bed level in the settings. Annoying to have to use baby stepping to immediately adjust the Z up to get a print that does not extrude several layers due to being too close to the bed. Any Ideas?
When I try to start a print i receive the following error (Marlin 1.1.9): Recv: echo:enqueueing "M600" Recv: Error:Hotend too cold Changing monitoring state from "Printing" to "Error: Hotend too cold" Changing monitoring state from "Error: Hotend too cold" to "Offline (Error: Hotend too cold)" Connection closed, closing down monitor
UPDATE AS OF 9/11/2018 Go to this link below and follow these steps for marlin 1.1.9. Make sure you install U8glib.h by going to sketch>include library>manage library>and then type in U8glib and install it or you will get error message when verifying. Also Arduino 1.8.6 has some shit wrong with it, so use the 1.8.5 version which you can find on their website by clicking on a previous releases link. I did this to my CR10S at the time of this comment and I kept getting errors where the filament would want to unload/load constantly, so I commented out the filament senor, auto home, and nozzle park feature. They are not really that useful anyways, and its worked for me. I also have a keenovo bed upgrade and so I do not use my heated bed through the printer. If you did the same thing, set your heated bed sensor to 0 in the same place in the code where you choose your extruder sensor type. www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
This is very helpful. Thanks! I am wondering if these changes (except for bed size) work for all the S models. I have an S4. BTW I am going to subscribe.
firstly i do not get line numbers like you do , i also followed your guide using latest marlin flashed it to my controll box then i just get blue screen . what could i have done wrong
Following your instructions I got the FW to install. However, when I go to print, the print will pause and I get a message asking me to insert filament, then press button to continue..., wait for filament to purge, press continue. Filament will squirt out the nozzle, the printer will center itself, the nozzle will lower. It starts to beep and the whole process repeats itself. Can you suggest so things to troubleshoot? Thanks.
Just followed this video for 1.1.9. When I tried to print the printer purges filament and asks me to change filament. This repeats over and over. Is there a setting I need to change?
Followed line by line and got the following compilation error when checking: In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:30:0, from C:\Users\user\Desktop\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31: Configuration.h:40: error: invalid digit "9" in octal constant #define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 010109 ^ sketch\SanityCheck.h:45:43: note: in expansion of macro 'CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION' #if ! defined(CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION) || CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION < REQUIRED_CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION ^ In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:40:0, from C:\Users\user\Desktop\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31: SanityCheck.h:46: error: #error "You are using an old Configuration.h file, update it before building Marlin." #error "You are using an old Configuration.h file, update it before building Marlin." ^ exit status 1 invalid digit "9" in octal constant Can you help me?
Hi, wondering if you have, since posting this, upgraded to Arduino 1.8.8 . the settings you are suggesting are different, I believe. I am attempting to get my Titan Aero with direct drive to work on my CR-10S. When I try to upload, I get the U8glib.h error.
hi, i subbed your channel, i bought the original cr-10 about 3 weeks ago, i ended up buying the z axis kit, and found out the original board only had one z plug, so i ordered the new mainboard v 2.1, and my lcd only has one ribbon cable. i have a reprap discount smart controller lcd laying around from a couple weeks ago, will it work with the v 2.1 board or do i need to buy one?thanks for the video. more or less i am upgrading to a cr-10S. I have yet to install any of the upgrades and i also plan on using the ABL probe i bought, i mounted it, bit its not wired or configured yet. do you plan on doing any of these video's ?
I have looked around, however I am unable to locate a pinout for this board. Check with Timothy Hoogland may have the information you are seeking. facebook.com/groups/th3dstudio/
I have a question concerning higher temperatures if you want to print something like polycarbonate or Matter-hackers Nylon X. "Carbon filed Nylon" How do I flash the firm-wear on a Stock CR-10 to print 300°?
I have a ctc 10s which is a clone of the genuine cr-10s made by creality. I am trying to find info on how to do the marlin upgrade on this mode. I need the board info input it into the code via arduino IDE. Would the changes be the same and do I need to change the board info in the code ?
on thermal settings, temp sensor, for e3d should change from 1 to 5! what about for a micro swiss hot end? can i go right ahead and change to 5 or do i need to upgrade the stock thermistor ? thank you!!
when i installed and unzipped the 1.1.x file and when i open the marlin file it only says Marlin not Marlin.ino and when it opens it dose not give me any tabs on the top like configuration. please help me.
When i try to update my cr10s, on arduino 1.8.7 it says it times out during upload, no errors in verify I open the same file same settings and board in 1.8.5 i get an error saying unrecognised board, i set it to arduino 2560 ect ect... com port 3 Why is it i cant upload?
Hi, thank you for the walk-through. Unfortunately, I keep getting this error, Sd2Card.h:100:39: error: pasting "/* SPI Master In Slave Out pin*/" and "_DDR" does not give a valid preprocessing token Can anyone please shed some light on this? Thank you.
I came across the same thing. this is what i found to solve it. forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=542083.0 Just cut the \\'description text' and move it to the line above
Does the firmware changes apply to the latest version of Marlin V1.1.8, also there seems to be some problems with the latest version. Do have any updates on Marlin V1.1.8.
At this time I am hesitant to recommend one until I have a chance to do more research. There are a few on the market like offerings from E3D. However I will do the leg work and publish the results on an upcoming episode. Please be patient.
Will do and thanks .. also wanted to mention that Th3D is releasing one they worked on with Creatlity, April 18 2018, tomorrow ... here is the link : www.th3dstudio.com/product/pre-order-creality-cr-10-and-cr-10s-dual-extruder-upgrade-board/ For your convenience, here is the details they provided on the site ... "THIS IS A PRE-ORDER. BOARDS WILL SHIP IN 2-3 WEEKS FROM ORDER BEING PLACED. UPDATES WILL BE POSTED TO THE TH3D FACEBOOK PAGE WHEN BOARDS SHIP TO US. Genuine Creality V2.1 CR-10S Board customized for TH3D Upgraded 220uF C4 Cap DUAL Extruder AND Hotend Support Compatible with CR-10S Filament Sensor Compatible with EZOut and EZABL Kits Full GPL Compatible Firmware Included (Unified Firmware) Compatible with CR-10 and CR-10S LCDs Description THIS IS A PRE-ORDER. BOARDS WILL SHIP IN 2-3 WEEKS FROM ORDER BEING PLACED. UPDATES WILL BE POSTED TO THE TH3D FACEBOOK PAGE WHEN BOARDS SHIP TO US. This is a real Creality CR-10S board that has been customized exclusively for TH3D. We worked with Creality to get the E1 Stepper driver installed so you can do DUAL colors and DUAL hotends on the machine. Pre-order will be live by 4/18/2018 once we finalize pricing. The board will be under the listed price here and it is just a placeholder. Please enter your email so that you can be notified once the pre-order is live. We will be adding inventory in the next week that will include extruders, 2 into 1 Adapters for printing dual colors on one single hotend. We will also be posting a collection of mounts so you can mount the 2nd extruder motor to the X Gantry and dual V6 hotends. This board will be added to the Unified Firmware so that you can easily set up a dual hotend or 2 into 1 hotend setup. Genuine Creality V2.1 CR-10S Board customized for TH3D Upgraded 220uF C4 Cap Includes Creality E1 Stepper Motor Cable DUAL Extruder AND Hotend Support Compatible with CR-10S Filament Sensor Compatible with EZOut and EZABL Kits Full GPL Compatible Firmware Included (Unified Firmware) Compatible with CR-10 and CR-10S LCDs"
Hello my teacher good morning my teacher marlin in the latest version I always get the version error message what I did not how to fix it if you help us we would be grateful
hey, and thanks for the video, i got some issues with the bed and nozzle tempretaur my temperature at nozzle and bed isnt plausible, at nozzle its about 140 and at bed about 100 degree. i already switched the thermistor to 200 k and also to 10 k in marlin, at 10 the nozzle temp is gettin down to 65 degree. but i think this isnt the right way to fix this i hope u can help me, thanks a lot
There appears to be in the first few minutes of your how-to to- do video a gaping hole. Double clicking on Marlin.ino doesn't do anything except for Windows asking what program do I want to use. After that I moved on to another TH-cam site.
In this undertaking you have to download and install your own Arduino file. I did this first. Then downloaded the 1.1.8 Marlin. If you open Marlin at this point it will auto open to arduino. If windows is looking for a program to open then you either dont have Arduino or you did not install it. Hope that helps.
Help me please, everything uploaded like you said but my bad be is staying at 55degrees no matter what I set it to in the menu or no matter what the model sets it to. But the big problem is when preheating pla or printing from sd it starts heating up for a while then shows the following error on screen "Heating failed PRINTER HALTED PLEASE RESET"
Hello, excellent Video. Would you please be so Kind and describe line 1167 in the configuration.H as text. That would be great. At the moment I can´t solve the problem with the error code #error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE". The lines in the Firmware are changed. Thank you for your support.
I was successful getting the new Marlin on my Cr10s. Now my problem is that I have no clue how to set the panel settings. Right before I updated this I had the printer running smooth on the stock firmware. Now its jerky and running what seems way too fast. it does not seem the slicer settings are controlling it. I am guessing I need to set the panel settings like jerk and Acceleration but I have no clue what or how I should set them. Can you help or is there somewhere I can find this out. I went to Solid Works but its the same thing your video covered. Thanks
Thanks for that but what about the countless other settings? Where can I go to learn about them. I am sorry for being dumb but I have only been doing this for 6 weeks and before it I have never messed with code or any of this stuff. And at my ripe old age of 60 I find it a little challenging to learning all this. i really want to know what the panel settings are and how to set them. I hope you can direct me to a place I can learn them but not by NASA types. I need down to earth dumb down talk. Can you help? Is there any way to go back to stock if I need to?
Those settings are there. Its running as if its on steroids. It slams and carries on it stops abruptly and rattles the lead screws and the bed motion slams back and forth. There is something wrong. I had to turn th FR down to 80% to calm it and it still rattled the lead screws. I am nervous I messed up going with this. I hope I can go back to stock.
I downloaded Arduino and opened the Marlin ISO file, but it seems that it is a general info page and there is only one tab at the top, "Marlin". Do I need to download Marlin for the CR10S specifically?
Shawn I amended the notes on this video to resolve the issue. or you can download my build, which has been tested drive.google.com/open?id=1fEmyU2vhRd6YoFCWkmET33AliiEWt_UN
Great video! However, the latest version of the Marlin Software that I downloaded from the Marlin site (vers: 1.1x) has a lot more lines of software, than that in your tutorial. I manged to find all the changes you recommended but got the following errors when doing a compilation check: In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:42:0, from sketch\ultralcd.cpp:23: SanityCheck.h:519: error: #error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE." #error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE." ^ In file included from sketch\ultralcd.cpp:96:0: sketch\ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h:46:20: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory #include ^ compilation terminated. exit status 1 #error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE." Thanks in advance for your help and assistance. Ginge Whiting England.
Also this line in the tab: "Marlin.h" - #define HAS_LCD_QUEUE_NOW (ENABLED(MALYAN_LCD) || (ENABLED(ULTIPANEL) && (ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL) || ENABLED(PID_AUTOTUNE_MENU) || ENABLED(ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE))))
Had same issue. Found example_configurations/creality/cr-10s/ directory and used those files instead. Worked like a charm, many other edits in those files, in addition to 2 new files required. Also had installing some U8 ardino module.
on thermal settings, temp sensor, for e3d should change from 1 to 5! what about for a micro swiss hot end? can i go right ahead and change to 5 or do i need to upgrade the stock thermistor ? thank you!!
on thermal settings, temp sensor, for e3d should change from 1 to 5! what about for a micro swiss hot end? can i go right ahead and change to 5 or do i need to upgrade the stock thermistor ? thank you!!
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Thank you! So nice to find a tutorial that actually goes through what to do, why and how without flying through it. I've been going nuts for days trying to learn firmware and this video broke it down just like I needed. Thanks again!
I have been enhancing my CAD skills and 3D printing for 6 months now... I found your presentation earlier this week and I made time to watch this morning. This is brilliant. I have viewed many other "similar" presentations that do not go to this level because the presenters assume that beginners know all about Marlin. This is exactly what I needed to help me set up my Marlin Software.
Thankyou from Sydney Australia for creating a very educational video.
Excellent, excellent video. Finally someone who make this very understandable for a non-programmer. Great job!
Absolutely HUGE thank you for this. Iv'e currently been having issues with steps on my CR10-S and needed to update firmware. This is very concise and excellently explained
Nice video! One comment on the encoders (@ 23:20); most common setup for quadrature encoders is four pulses per notch, it is best to set pulses per step to 4 and steps per menu item to 1 (or 2, if you want to be absolutely sure the menu item scrolling is deliberate). The original CR-10 uses the 1/5 setup and it's *infuriating* as each notch changes the adjustable values by four and the menu items slowly go out of sync.
Interesting that these differ form the CR-10 example configuration file included with Marlin - I didn't expect that, particular the axis inversion. Thanks for the info.
This was very helpful......but I got a little lost towards the end in trying to keep up with the marlin v2.x that is out now. Things are quite in alignment......and I'm a n0ob.
Thank you very much, my teacher, a very clear and clear explanation of the success
You know .... I’ve been plugging away at trying to understand this process. I really appreciate all ur work and weekly sessions. Here is what needs to be added in explanation for the lay person. I have been under the impression that you ran Arduino and Marlin in two separate programs. Until just now did the bell ring when you said .... open Marlin.ino and that will push the Arduino.IDE to open with Marlin running in it. Jumping Judis ..... I’ve been beating my head against the wall thinking i was suppose to use Marlin to open the Hex file I had. Da, on my part. Thanks so much. Now here’s the Question from me now I understand it. What Marlin.INO do I use for CR10S Pro ... thanks again
This is the most easy Marlin walk-trough video I ever watched. Good job, thank you!
By the way, is this tutorial for the V2.0 or V2.1 board on the CR-10S?
So i installed the great mico swiss hot end.... it suppose to heat to 300 C.... What is the setting to change... Only because you did i micro swiss change out yourself but no setting were show how to change temp to 300 C.
Just a question on your MAX FEED RATE speeds you are using 2500 as mm/s or mm/min otherwise that value is way too high and you will skip steps hope you can clarify great video.
I just noticed on your video you have the line number showing on the left side all the way down. How did you do you accomplish that? I just looked up how to do it and see a bunch of comments of only being able to see what line your cursor is on on the bottom left. Thanks for the video I don't have a CR-10S even though I wish I could afford one. This worked well for my FLSUN i3 Prusa though. There really is a lack of firmware videos.
Hi Bud,
Thanks for the great question. once you open the arduino IDE click on the file drop down menu and click preferences near the end of the list. This will open a new widow, them click the box next to Display line numbers. That's all there is to it.
I hope I haven't pooched my printer. Yesterday, based on your previous session, I tested the serial monitor and got garbage below 250,000. (Then, for some reason, I set it back to the lower default). Then I verified and uploaded the file (wish I'd seen this episode first) but the result is that now my CR-10S LCD only shows a blank screen when I power it up.
So, how do I recover?
Thanks for the great tutorials. I have some more questions but I have to get it running first.
You forgot Line 829: #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING true. this made it painful upgrade trying to understand the issue, Thanks though
Hi, this is Chris in Bulgaria, my new CR10S motherboard arrived. Got it fitted and it makes and beeping noise. Well, it looks like the cure is putting in the new firmware. So for about the third time of me watching this video, I started to go line by line to what you have done here. I went to the advanced section, minute 27 on your video and I noticed that some script was overlapping which I managed to correct and I can now read it. But, I noticed more and more. Is this normal? I adjusted a few more lines and thought I might be wasting my time, or I could be making things correct. The Marlin was downloaded today, 10th of June. Should I clean it all up, or is it ok? Big storms here in Bulgaria. Long live PLA, Chris
Great video to help upgrade the Marlin firmware.
I needed to only change the size of the print board from 300 to 500x500x500 as this firmware will go on the CR-10 S5.
Just one question, do I have to have the connected to the Cr-10 S5 before compiling, because I keep getting an error - Arduino Mega ADK.
I've gone to Tools>Board>Arduino Genino Mega/2560 but still I get the error.
FIXED: I went into Sketch>Include Library>Manage Libraries
This will load up the Library Manager so I can download U8glib.h file
Once that was installed, I recompiled and everything was seemed okay.
The final message was Done Compiling. Then it gave me a message about how much memory is used.
I guess that's it.
I'm going crazy trying to find information and a walkthrough for slice engineering upgraded 300c heat cartridge for the cr10 max, cant even find mainboard type.....
I recently picked up a used CR-10 (not the S) and have leveled the bed and set to end stops. I'm not new to 3d Printing, but have hit a snag with this printer. when i start a print, it starts trying to print 2+mm off the bed. I do not have a bl-touch or any other leveling accessory. It is bone stock. the z-axis is set to put the nozzle on the bed. I cant adjust the end stop any further down or the hotend will push into the bed. I cant figure out how to get my computer to read the Marlin off the printer to look and see if there is a problem in the code. Any ideas or suggestions? I am running windows 10 and Arduino IDE 2.1.0.
Hello. Xloader finishes updating with 0 bytes updated message. also cura is stucked at firmware upload pgress bar. promterface is OK with connecting and managing printer. any ideas? changed all baud rates and tried. firmware file is confirmed with tinymachines support. its CR10Pro_Stock_BIL_DW5.hex as of Feb.20
Did you ever made a cr10s Marlin config for a bed leveling sensor? I am installing a probe and having much trouble with homing and also bed leveling. The machine goes almost out of the bed when homing. It would be great help if you could guide me. I have follow many of your videos and have been great help.
Great Video! Do you know what is needed to enable the Menu Option "Z-Offset" under Control/Motion menu? Thanks a lot. (I've been googleing it for a while and could not find)
Great Help. Thank you.. One question. Where can I redefine the home position of the nozzle when clicking auto home? The hot end will sit on the bed when it is homed.. I want to select home, and have the printer home and lift the head 3 to 5 mm from the bed ..
I have a MINGDA GLITAR 6C it is a Chinese large format 3d printer. Very difficult to get support for this machine so I wonder if it is possible to use a different control unit like the CR-10s. How difficult is it to replace the Andciv board with a new set up?
Great video, thanks for making this! I wondered if this will work for a CR-10 S4?
Greetings, I found out that the Sunlu S9Plus printer I have uses the CR10S parameters, would that be the same firmware as Creality's? And or, can you please do a firmware how to on the Sunlu S9Plus, please. Thank you for all you do.
Excellent!
Hello, Love the tutorial. I have a CR10S5 (purchased dec.2018) and would like to upgrade to the newer version of Marlin by following your directions. I am wondering why you do not enable Linear advance...this seems to be a hot topic the last months for it seems to offer great results while printing. (line 681 in configuration_adv.h). Also i would (in a later stage) like to upgrade to a 32 bit board. Would these settings be the same and what Board would you recomend (do not need ethernet or wifi). Thanks for your time to reply. Jurgen Belgium
My CR-10S is showing 80 , 80 , 400 , 93 for Default Axis Steps Per Unit on the stock firmware. Did Creality change something? Both the version 2.0 and 2.1 boards I have had the 93 for the extruder value.
Is this the same setup used for the CR 10s Pro. My guess there would be a different choice for the motherboard in “boards h “. What would that choice be. Thanks for the video.
I used Arduino 1.6 and Marlin 1.1.9 and followed your procedural changes. There is about 100 lines more code in 1.6 someplace early in the content, but it wasnt really difficult to find the lines in your discussion. Just add 100 and search around. Compiler didnt suceed. (chuckles)
hi i have followed your video step by step and i saw there was a correction you described for one of your followers i got the same error i corrected 1167 in the configuration.H and i get this error
Arduino: 1.8.5 (Windows Store 1.8.10.0) (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:33:0,
from C:\Users\Dude\Desktop\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31:
Configuration_adv.h:1577: error: #endif without #if
#endif // CONFIGURATION_ADV_H
^
C:\Users\Dude\Desktop\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:45:110: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory
#include // library for graphics LCD by Oli Kraus (github.com/olikraus/U8glib_Arduino)
^
compilation terminated.
exit status 1
#endif without #if
This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
please help me.
Whats happened to the "Initialize SD / Refresh" prompt? You have to switch off , insert SD card and switch on again now. Bit of a pain.
Used the exact settings here on a knockoff CR-10S that replaced with a creality 2.1 board and display. Works nice except it insists to print around 1mm or so too low despite several bed levelings and even the bed level in the settings. Annoying to have to use baby stepping to immediately adjust the Z up to get a print that does not extrude several layers due to being too close to the bed. Any Ideas?
When I try to start a print i receive the following error (Marlin 1.1.9): Recv: echo:enqueueing "M600"
Recv: Error:Hotend too cold
Changing monitoring state from "Printing" to "Error: Hotend too cold"
Changing monitoring state from "Error: Hotend too cold" to "Offline (Error: Hotend too cold)"
Connection closed, closing down monitor
UPDATE AS OF 9/11/2018
Go to this link below and follow these steps for marlin 1.1.9. Make sure you install U8glib.h by going to sketch>include library>manage library>and then type in U8glib and install it or you will get error message when verifying. Also Arduino 1.8.6 has some shit wrong with it, so use the 1.8.5 version which you can find on their website by clicking on a previous releases link.
I did this to my CR10S at the time of this comment and I kept getting errors where the filament would want to unload/load constantly, so I commented out the filament senor, auto home, and nozzle park feature. They are not really that useful anyways, and its worked for me. I also have a keenovo bed upgrade and so I do not use my heated bed through the printer. If you did the same thing, set your heated bed sensor to 0 in the same place in the code where you choose your extruder sensor type.
www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
I got exactly the same problem with the filament. Is there a different way to solve this?
This is very helpful. Thanks! I am wondering if these changes (except for bed size) work for all the S models. I have an S4. BTW I am going to subscribe.
He puts in his bed size as 300x300, I just changed to 495 x 495 on my S5.
Why dont I have numbers or when I click on file I have to copy and paste?
firstly i do not get line numbers like you do , i also followed your guide using latest marlin flashed it to my controll box then i just get blue screen . what could i have done wrong
Following your instructions I got the FW to install. However, when I go to print, the print will pause and I get a message asking me to insert filament, then press button to continue..., wait for filament to purge, press continue. Filament will squirt out the nozzle, the printer will center itself, the nozzle will lower. It starts to beep and the whole process repeats itself. Can you suggest so things to troubleshoot? Thanks.
Just followed this video for 1.1.9. When I tried to print the printer purges filament and asks me to change filament. This repeats over and over. Is there a setting I need to change?
I noticed the bed size X and Y have been set to 500, but the Z max position is only 400. Isn't the max print area of this printer 500 x 500 x 500?
My Printer wont initialize my SD cards anymore. it says "No SD Card" and i cant initialze manually. how to fix?
I have the same problem :(( how did you fix it?
Followed line by line and got the following compilation error when checking:
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:30:0,
from C:\Users\user\Desktop\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31:
Configuration.h:40: error: invalid digit "9" in octal constant
#define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 010109
^
sketch\SanityCheck.h:45:43: note: in expansion of macro 'CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION'
#if ! defined(CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION) || CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION < REQUIRED_CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION
^
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:40:0,
from C:\Users\user\Desktop\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31:
SanityCheck.h:46: error: #error "You are using an old Configuration.h file, update it before building Marlin."
#error "You are using an old Configuration.h file, update it before building Marlin."
^
exit status 1
invalid digit "9" in octal constant
Can you help me?
Hi, wondering if you have, since posting this, upgraded to Arduino 1.8.8 . the settings you are suggesting are different, I believe. I am attempting to get my Titan Aero with direct drive to work on my CR-10S. When I try to upload, I get the U8glib.h error.
What preset do I use if I have an upgraded silent board? I bought the ender 5 plus board.
hi, i subbed your channel, i bought the original cr-10 about 3 weeks ago, i ended up buying the z axis kit, and found out the original board only had one z plug, so i ordered the new mainboard v 2.1, and my lcd only has one ribbon cable. i have a reprap discount smart controller lcd laying around from a couple weeks ago, will it work with the v 2.1 board or do i need to buy one?thanks for the video. more or less i am upgrading to a cr-10S. I have yet to install any of the upgrades and i also plan on using the ABL probe i bought, i mounted it, bit its not wired or configured yet. do you plan on doing any of these video's ?
I also own an anet e10 and e12,I am about to give up getting Marlin to work on the e12,can I use cr-10 marlin config with an e12?
You mentioned it was a creality v2.0 board. Is there a Pinout diagram for this board? Looking to install controllable led with the new firmware
I have looked around, however I am unable to locate a pinout for this board. Check with Timothy Hoogland may have the information you are seeking. facebook.com/groups/th3dstudio/
Bed dimensions aside does this configuration guide apply to the CR10-S400 as well?
I have a question concerning higher temperatures if you want to print something like polycarbonate or Matter-hackers Nylon X. "Carbon filed Nylon" How do I flash the firm-wear on a Stock CR-10 to print 300°?
Any chance of having the correctly configured files available for download to make the install for the CR-10S easier?
Yes I will release it on a drop box just pm me on facebook.
I have a ctc 10s which is a clone of the genuine cr-10s made by creality. I am trying to find info on how to do the marlin upgrade on this mode. I need the board info input it into the code via arduino IDE. Would the changes be the same and do I need to change the board info in the code ?
Very nice
I cant seem to compile verify. Initially it said I needed u8glib.h. i found it and added it to the library and now there are more errors.
on thermal settings, temp sensor, for e3d should change from 1 to 5! what about for a micro swiss hot end? can i go right ahead and change to 5 or do i need to upgrade the stock thermistor ? thank you!!
Hey,
Awesome Video the only problem is am getting an error "#error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE".
when i installed and unzipped the 1.1.x file and when i open the marlin file it only says Marlin not Marlin.ino and when it opens it dose not give me any tabs on the top like configuration. please help me.
When i try to update my cr10s, on arduino 1.8.7 it says it times out during upload, no errors in verify
I open the same file same settings and board in 1.8.5 i get an error saying unrecognised board, i set it to arduino 2560 ect ect... com port 3
Why is it i cant upload?
Would you be able to do an update on this, As they have done a firmware update and every time I do this it comes up with errors.
Hi, thank you for the walk-through.
Unfortunately, I keep getting this error,
Sd2Card.h:100:39: error: pasting "/* SPI Master In Slave Out pin*/" and "_DDR" does not give a valid preprocessing token
Can anyone please shed some light on this?
Thank you.
I came across the same thing. this is what i found to solve it. forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=542083.0 Just cut the \\'description text' and move it to the line above
Thank you, it worked, you're a star.
Does the firmware changes apply to the latest version of Marlin V1.1.8, also there seems to be some problems with the latest version. Do have any updates on Marlin V1.1.8.
Greetings, and thanks for the informative vids can you advise on a cr-10S dual color upgrade?
At this time I am hesitant to recommend one until I have a chance to do more research. There are a few on the market like offerings from E3D. However I will do the leg work and publish the results on an upcoming episode. Please be patient.
Will do and thanks .. also wanted to mention that Th3D is releasing one they worked on with Creatlity, April 18 2018, tomorrow ... here is the link :
www.th3dstudio.com/product/pre-order-creality-cr-10-and-cr-10s-dual-extruder-upgrade-board/
For your convenience, here is the details they provided on the site ...
"THIS IS A PRE-ORDER. BOARDS WILL SHIP IN 2-3 WEEKS FROM ORDER BEING PLACED. UPDATES WILL BE POSTED TO THE TH3D FACEBOOK PAGE WHEN BOARDS SHIP TO US.
Genuine Creality V2.1 CR-10S Board customized for TH3D
Upgraded 220uF C4 Cap
DUAL Extruder AND Hotend Support
Compatible with CR-10S Filament Sensor
Compatible with EZOut and EZABL Kits
Full GPL Compatible Firmware Included (Unified Firmware)
Compatible with CR-10 and CR-10S LCDs
Description
THIS IS A PRE-ORDER. BOARDS WILL SHIP IN 2-3 WEEKS FROM ORDER BEING PLACED. UPDATES WILL BE POSTED TO THE TH3D FACEBOOK PAGE WHEN BOARDS SHIP TO US.
This is a real Creality CR-10S board that has been customized exclusively for TH3D. We worked with Creality to get the E1 Stepper driver installed so you can do DUAL colors and DUAL hotends on the machine.
Pre-order will be live by 4/18/2018 once we finalize pricing. The board will be under the listed price here and it is just a placeholder. Please enter your email so that you can be notified once the pre-order is live.
We will be adding inventory in the next week that will include extruders, 2 into 1 Adapters for printing dual colors on one single hotend. We will also be posting a collection of mounts so you can mount the 2nd extruder motor to the X Gantry and dual V6 hotends.
This board will be added to the Unified Firmware so that you can easily set up a dual hotend or 2 into 1 hotend setup.
Genuine Creality V2.1 CR-10S Board customized for TH3D
Upgraded 220uF C4 Cap
Includes Creality E1 Stepper Motor Cable
DUAL Extruder AND Hotend Support
Compatible with CR-10S Filament Sensor
Compatible with EZOut and EZABL Kits
Full GPL Compatible Firmware Included (Unified Firmware)
Compatible with CR-10 and CR-10S LCDs"
Hello my teacher good morning my teacher marlin in the latest version I always get the version error message what I did not how to fix it if you help us we would be grateful
Please my friend included video tutorial for CR10S Marlin 1.1.9
Your tutorial is very very excellent
I tried to use this video with Marlin 1.1.9 and it would not compile correctly.
sorry, I also used Arduino 1.6
hey, and thanks for the video, i got some issues with the bed and nozzle tempretaur
my temperature at nozzle and bed isnt plausible, at nozzle its about 140 and at bed about 100 degree. i already switched the thermistor to 200 k and also to 10 k in marlin, at 10 the nozzle temp is gettin down to 65 degree. but i think this isnt the right way to fix this
i hope u can help me, thanks a lot
Thank you , super
How do u know what veraion firmwear my cr10s is currently using?
Do not install it in the CR 10 5s, the configuration changes. Not just for the size of the floor, but for other parameters.
I have installed and tested this configuration and it works just fine.
Reply, copying comments from other videos??? XDD you are lazy! Hahahhaha
..... original comment.... www.youtube.com/watch? v = ENSyAQLpfpQ
So is it fits cr10s5?
There appears to be in the first few minutes of your how-to to- do video a gaping hole. Double clicking on Marlin.ino doesn't do anything except for Windows asking what program do I want to use. After that I moved on to another TH-cam site.
In this undertaking you have to download and install your own Arduino file. I did this first. Then downloaded the 1.1.8 Marlin. If you open Marlin at this point it will auto open to arduino. If windows is looking for a program to open then you either dont have Arduino or you did not install it. Hope that helps.
I'm thinking about installing the Micro-swiss hot end. Would I just change the Max Temp to 300 instead of 250 like you showed?
Yes, be sure to follow the extra not in the description regarding the nozzle park feature before uploading to your printer.
A friend of mine, who is brand new at this, is asking what you mean by "extra".
Sorry bad typing on my part! Follow the extra noes in the description regarding the nozzle park feature.
do I need the arduino? i need to fix my printers bed leveling as soon as possible, thanks in advance!!
Help me please, everything uploaded like you said but my bad be is staying at 55degrees no matter what I set it to in the menu or no matter what the model sets it to. But the big problem is when preheating pla or printing from sd it starts heating up for a while then shows the following error on screen "Heating failed PRINTER HALTED PLEASE RESET"
Did you find the solution?
Hello, excellent Video. Would you please be so Kind and describe line 1167 in the configuration.H as text. That would be great. At the moment I can´t solve the problem with the error code #error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE". The lines in the Firmware are changed.
Thank you for your support.
Can anyone help me with a problem marlin 1.1.9 i get a message( e1 heating failed printer halted please reset)
I was successful getting the new Marlin on my Cr10s. Now my problem is that I have no clue how to set the panel settings. Right before I updated this I had the printer running smooth on the stock firmware. Now its jerky and running what seems way too fast. it does not seem the slicer settings are controlling it. I am guessing I need to set the panel settings like jerk and Acceleration but I have no clue what or how I should set them. Can you help or is there somewhere I can find this out. I went to Solid Works but its the same thing your video covered. Thanks
default acceleration = 575, X and Y jerk should be at 10.0
Thanks for that but what about the countless other settings? Where can I go to learn about them. I am sorry for being dumb but I have only been doing this for 6 weeks and before it I have never messed with code or any of this stuff. And at my ripe old age of 60 I find it a little challenging to learning all this. i really want to know what the panel settings are and how to set them. I hope you can direct me to a place I can learn them but not by NASA types. I need down to earth dumb down talk. Can you help? Is there any way to go back to stock if I need to?
Those settings are there. Its running as if its on steroids. It slams and carries on it stops abruptly and rattles the lead screws and the bed motion slams back and forth. There is something wrong. I had to turn th FR down to 80% to calm it and it still rattled the lead screws. I am nervous I messed up going with this. I hope I can go back to stock.
Jim Nicholson let me look into it when I get to the studio in the morning.
Thank You Is there anyway to get the stock firmware? I appreciate your help. I will wait to hear.
I downloaded Arduino and opened the Marlin ISO file, but it seems that it is a general info page and there is only one tab at the top, "Marlin". Do I need to download Marlin for the CR10S specifically?
nevermind had to extract all the files
Have you been able a the auto off resume feature yet?
Did you ever do an installation video? I am asking because I got an error
#error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE"
Shawn I amended the notes on this video to resolve the issue. or you can download my build, which has been tested drive.google.com/open?id=1fEmyU2vhRd6YoFCWkmET33AliiEWt_UN
What board do you select? and thank you for the quick responce
Shawn you don't need to change the board. This firmware has already been tested as is on the CR-10S.
I know I am doing something wrong I know get this error message
Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560.
I was just down in Calgary this morning and picked up a CR-10s and when I got home and built it every thing was fine except the display was in french.
Great video! However, the latest version of the Marlin Software that I downloaded from the Marlin site (vers: 1.1x) has a lot more lines of software, than that in your tutorial. I manged to find all the changes you recommended but got the following errors when doing a compilation check:
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:42:0,
from sketch\ultralcd.cpp:23:
SanityCheck.h:519: error: #error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE."
#error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE."
^
In file included from sketch\ultralcd.cpp:96:0:
sketch\ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h:46:20: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory
#include
^
compilation terminated.
exit status 1
#error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE."
Thanks in advance for your help and assistance.
Ginge Whiting
England.
I did find this line in the tab "Conditionals_post.f" - #define HEATER_IDLE_HANDLER (ENABLED(ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE) || ENABLED(PROBING_HEATERS_OFF))
Also this line in the tab: "Marlin.h" - #define HAS_LCD_QUEUE_NOW (ENABLED(MALYAN_LCD) || (ENABLED(ULTIPANEL) && (ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL) || ENABLED(PID_AUTOTUNE_MENU) || ENABLED(ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE))))
Plus also in the tab "Marlin.h": - || (ENABLED(ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE) && ENABLED(HOME_BEFORE_FILAMENT_CHANGE)) \
Had same issue. Found example_configurations/creality/cr-10s/ directory and used those files instead. Worked like a charm, many other edits in those files, in addition to 2 new files required. Also had installing some U8 ardino module.
thx
dose this work for CR10S4? thank you
How it going keep up the good work
Does this include the power loss resume feature?
Not as of yet
The First Layer I will stay tune to see if you guys find a fix for that ☺️
Creality has not released the source code that includes that feature, which is in direct violation of the Marlin GPL license agreement.
It was recently released.
Can anyone link me to the follow up video?
does this work for the CR10 s4
Hi when trying to verify i get U8glib.h No such file or directory... please help
Download U8glib from that link you see on the error line, unzip it to your Arduino library folder. It is probably Documents\Arduino\libraries.
Thanks very much I have fixed that now .
This is to complicated for us new bees!
on thermal settings, temp sensor, for e3d should change from 1 to 5! what about for a micro swiss hot end? can i go right ahead and change to 5 or do i need to upgrade the stock thermistor ? thank you!!
on thermal settings, temp sensor, for e3d should change from 1 to 5! what about for a micro swiss hot end? can i go right ahead and change to 5 or do i need to upgrade the stock thermistor ? thank you!!