I, too implemented Clough42's ELS. For anyone considering doing so, since every lathe is different, we're each on our own to handle the encoder and drive implementation, but that's half the fun! (Oh, and mine was put on a Takisawa TSL-300 lathe and am very happy with it. In my situation, my lathe was missing the change gears, so an ELS was all the more useful.)
OK.....so this is just a leadscrew control and does not control the depth of thread via the crosslide in put and retraction of the tool etc.........so it is part ELS and part manual if you want to do threading. There's another ELS system called the EZnc-2, reviewed elsewhere on UTUBE, that does all of the threading requirements. A passing thought.....with the move now to many people considering the ELS as a viable option to threading I would think the Chinese mini lathes will soon come out all with ELS's .....that would be cheaper and more efficient than having a change wheel gear set and also enable any pitch to be cut.
@@gangleweed _"does not control the depth of thread"_ man, the lead screw *has nothing to do* with thread depth. This is not a CNC but still a *manual* lathe, so you've mixed thins up for no reason. *The purpose of the ELS is just to get rid of gear changeover yet gears themselves, that's it.* The lathe with Clough ELS installed behaves *exactly as a real industrial lathe.* None of the industrial lathes _figures out_ either thread depth or any other parameters cause that's a turner's job to do all that.
@@MSM5500maybe thread depth isn't part of an els, but it's a nice feature if you plan on cutting threads. On my grizzly g0602 lathe, with its imperial lead screw, the half nut can't be disengage when cutting metric threads. That means you need enough runoff room past the thread to stop the spindle and reverse the motor for the next pass. With an ELS system that supports thread depth, you don't have to do the tedious stop/reverse spindle to cut threads. Plus, your designs don't need to incorporate a channel for runoff, and you don't risk ruining your part if you turn the spindle off too late.
Hi Dave,. Very neat.! I’ve got a very similar but slightly larger lathe and if I’d come across this earlier I think I’d have used your method of driving the rotary encoder. Instead I used an 80 tooth gear on the gear carrier driven off the 40 tooth spindle gear and then stepped the ratio back up to an overall 1:1 with the cogged pulleys. Your solution is quieter. I was able to tuck my James’ style encoder away in a recess below the lathe bed casting. I’ve done all the mounting brackets and got them installed. I’ve tested the electronics on a breadboard. Now need to put them in an enclosure. I suppose one advantage of my build is that it is very easy to disconnect the drive to the encoder or to revert to the mechanical gearing but I can’t see myself ever doing that! BobUK.
Hi m, I have same lathe, I’m setting up the hardware, please I have one question, O wan to place the servo in your location, same, but I don’t know the belt size to be use, please wheat size dis you use in length?
Hey Dave. Great job. What lathe do you have? I have a Southbend heavy 10L and I’m thinking of converting the motor to a 4 hp dc treadmill motor with variable speed. Also with the same electronic lead screw from Clough42. Did you purchase all the parts (or at least the electronics, controls, displays etc) from him? I’d like to hear your thoughts on doing this to a dc treadmill motor conversion. Thanks for sharing. Paul
Paul, mine is a precision mathews lathe, just a rebranded and qced in America lathe of a Chinese import. As for what I used, I used his code as a baseline, but rest was purchased by myself, I think I list the specific parts I used. I did use the Texas Instruments controller he used also. As for the motor your using for your drive motor for a lathe, this mod is completely independent of that choice, as it syncs up with whatever the output shaft is using. It overall is something I would do again, as once you have it, you’ll never want to go back to charging gears.
Hi Dave. Thanks again for all the great info on this. I saw a few more implementations on the PM lathes and your is the cleanest in my opinion. I have a few more questions if you have time please. Does your side cover fit back on with your design? Also, on your links below to the parts you say the "Belt & Pulleys & servo I used (updated 5/31/22)" are 3:1 but the link is to a 4:1 pair of pulleys. Are the 4:1 the newest version? I am gathering all the bits and pieces. My lathe gets delivered tomorrow! Time to tinker :) Thanks again.
I’m away from home till Sunday, I’ll post up which it is. As for side cover, yes it does fit, as I used the same stud and hole for the servo mount, just had to back out the jam nut, but that side was fiddly to Bergen with, as my longer studs where not exactly straight from the factory, so som tweaking to straighten was necessary. If you get a clean install, even though it’s a fiddly fit, won’t matter, as there isn’t much reason to remove the cover with electronic switching 😀
Hi, I just got a PM1030. I’ve already done a conversion to ELS on a mini lathe, but that was easy mode because the CAD files already exist for the entire machine. I’m designing my set up now and I was wondering if you still had some dimensions handy. What is the OD of the spindle? I’d like to preserve my factory bearing preload until it’s time to assemble everything.
Thanks for you previous suggestions. I just rec'd my lathe and getting ready to install the ELS leadscrew. Just curious what stepper motor you used? Thanks... Richard
Joel, I had issues with the original stepper, and ended up swapping to the iSV57T-180, the very same one that clough42 last recommended. That is a much easier install with not having the separate controller. Mine still fit in the casting with the extra bulk, but you may want to put a connector mid wire, as I needed to install the servo from inside the casting interior, put the plate on. Couldn’t remember if I used printed parts, but I have replaced all mounting plates with aluminum milled equivalents also, as they did loosen after a bit. The new servo is much better than the original, and also available via Amazon.
Hi Dave. First - thank you for sharing. I found your video by luck. It would help if PM-1022 was in the title. I have the same lathe but built my Clough42 ELS for my old lathe. I am now in the process of installing it on this new PM-1022 The links to the pulleys suggest 60 tooth GT2 pulleys. I have not measured if they will fit the spindle once machined. The ones in your video, look larger and the belt looks more like 9-10mm wide not a standard 6mm GT2. Could you elaborate or give some dims? Thank you in advance. Mike S.
Michal, I updated my title first. Second, I think the correct pulley set I used was is now listed above with correction. I think all had to be probably be fit to the shaft, ie bored out, especially the one for the Motor to encoder, as I can't remember what it looked like disassembled, as that one is the passthrou for material. Anyhoo, got a follow up question after the update, let me know.
Hi Dave. Do you happen to have the part number for the encoder you used? I have ordered most the parts I need to do this on my PM-1030 but didn't see where you said what part number you used for that. Thanks for the STL files also. Nice work!
Chuck, this was in my Amazon history, 1000P/R Shaft 8mm Push Pull Output 5 to 26V Hollow Shaft Rotary Encoder a.co/d/9QemmSY Sadly, it’s twice what I paid 3 yrs ago, but it does work well.
@@davegomez9798 I think everything is at least twice as much as it was even year ago now if not more... forget about 3 years. :/ Thanks for the info. Can t wait to get going on my conversion.
Hello Dave... Just a quick question. I am looking at buying the PM-1022 or PM-1030. I am new to this hobby and was wondering if you thought that the extra 8" of length of the 1030 was worthwhile? The PM-1030 would be a tighter fit for my shop, but I could fit it. Have you found the PM-1022 to have enough length?
not for general production for sure, but easy enough to make a one off. I would not make you one until you tried the 3d print to verify that it would fit correctly, or what mods you made to make it work (I can share the fusion 360 model also). I'm pretty railed for time over the next 4-6 weeks for sure, but probably get you to it by mid february or so. Note I used my 3d print for 6 months with no issues, so you can do that to tide you over.
Well done and thanks for sharing. Just started my Clough42 build and gathered a couple of tips from you.
Nice work Dave. I plan on purchasing the same lathe ... No doubt.... This will make my implementation much easier!
I, too implemented Clough42's ELS. For anyone considering doing so, since every lathe is different, we're each on our own to handle the encoder and drive implementation, but that's half the fun! (Oh, and mine was put on a Takisawa TSL-300 lathe and am very happy with it. In my situation, my lathe was missing the change gears, so an ELS was all the more useful.)
OK.....so this is just a leadscrew control and does not control the depth of thread via the crosslide in put and retraction of the tool etc.........so it is part ELS and part manual if you want to do threading.
There's another ELS system called the EZnc-2, reviewed elsewhere on UTUBE, that does all of the threading requirements.
A passing thought.....with the move now to many people considering the ELS as a viable option to threading I would think the Chinese mini lathes will soon come out all with ELS's .....that would be cheaper and more efficient than having a change wheel gear set and also enable any pitch to be cut.
@@gangleweed _"does not control the depth of thread"_
man, the lead screw *has nothing to do* with thread depth. This is not a CNC but still a *manual* lathe, so you've mixed thins up for no reason. *The purpose of the ELS is just to get rid of gear changeover yet gears themselves, that's it.* The lathe with Clough ELS installed behaves *exactly as a real industrial lathe.* None of the industrial lathes _figures out_ either thread depth or any other parameters cause that's a turner's job to do all that.
It means that for every pass you have to reset the tool to the next thread depth.......I have been turning for the last 60 years or so.@@MSM5500
@@MSM5500maybe thread depth isn't part of an els, but it's a nice feature if you plan on cutting threads. On my grizzly g0602 lathe, with its imperial lead screw, the half nut can't be disengage when cutting metric threads. That means you need enough runoff room past the thread to stop the spindle and reverse the motor for the next pass.
With an ELS system that supports thread depth, you don't have to do the tedious stop/reverse spindle to cut threads. Plus, your designs don't need to incorporate a channel for runoff, and you don't risk ruining your part if you turn the spindle off too late.
I DIY mine too with USB but be aware of 9V USB fast chargers! I like your button symbols.
Hi Dave,. Very neat.! I’ve got a very similar but slightly larger lathe and if I’d come across this earlier I think I’d have used your method of driving the rotary encoder. Instead I used an 80 tooth gear on the gear carrier driven off the 40 tooth spindle gear and then stepped the ratio back up to an overall 1:1 with the cogged pulleys. Your solution is quieter. I was able to tuck my James’ style encoder away in a recess below the lathe bed casting. I’ve done all the mounting brackets and got them installed. I’ve tested the electronics on a breadboard. Now need to put them in an enclosure. I suppose one advantage of my build is that it is very easy to disconnect the drive to the encoder or to revert to the mechanical gearing but I can’t see myself ever doing that! BobUK.
@ Robert Hawtin do you have the PM1127 ?
Hi m, I have same lathe, I’m setting up the hardware, please I have one question, O wan to place the servo in your location, same, but I don’t know the belt size to be use, please wheat size dis you use in length?
Nice implementation.
What is the "banjo" you mention?
Hey Dave. Great job. What lathe do you have?
I have a Southbend heavy 10L and I’m thinking of converting the motor to a 4 hp dc treadmill motor with variable speed. Also with the same electronic lead screw from Clough42.
Did you purchase all the parts (or at least the electronics, controls, displays etc) from him?
I’d like to hear your thoughts on doing this to a dc treadmill motor conversion.
Thanks for sharing.
Paul
Paul, mine is a precision mathews lathe, just a rebranded and qced in America lathe of a Chinese import. As for what I used, I used his code as a baseline, but rest was purchased by myself, I think I list the specific parts I used. I did use the Texas Instruments controller he used also. As for the motor your using for your drive motor for a lathe, this mod is completely independent of that choice, as it syncs up with whatever the output shaft is using. It overall is something I would do again, as once you have it, you’ll never want to go back to charging gears.
Hi Dave. Thanks again for all the great info on this. I saw a few more implementations on the PM lathes and your is the cleanest in my opinion. I have a few more questions if you have time please. Does your side cover fit back on with your design? Also, on your links below to the parts you say the "Belt & Pulleys & servo I used (updated 5/31/22)" are 3:1 but the link is to a 4:1 pair of pulleys. Are the 4:1 the newest version? I am gathering all the bits and pieces. My lathe gets delivered tomorrow! Time to tinker :) Thanks again.
I’m away from home till Sunday, I’ll post up which it is. As for side cover, yes it does fit, as I used the same stud and hole for the servo mount, just had to back out the jam nut, but that side was fiddly to Bergen with, as my longer studs where not exactly straight from the factory, so som tweaking to straighten was necessary. If you get a clean install, even though it’s a fiddly fit, won’t matter, as there isn’t much reason to remove the cover with electronic switching 😀
Hi,
I just got a PM1030. I’ve already done a conversion to ELS on a mini lathe, but that was easy mode because the CAD files already exist for the entire machine.
I’m designing my set up now and I was wondering if you still had some dimensions handy. What is the OD of the spindle? I’d like to preserve my factory bearing preload until it’s time to assemble everything.
Thanks for you previous suggestions. I just rec'd my lathe and getting ready to install the ELS leadscrew. Just curious what stepper motor you used? Thanks... Richard
Joel, I had issues with the original stepper, and ended up swapping to the iSV57T-180, the very same one that clough42 last recommended. That is a much easier install with not having the separate controller. Mine still fit in the casting with the extra bulk, but you may want to put a connector mid wire, as I needed to install the servo from inside the casting interior, put the plate on. Couldn’t remember if I used printed parts, but I have replaced all mounting plates with aluminum milled equivalents also, as they did loosen after a bit. The new servo is much better than the original, and also available via Amazon.
@@davegomez9798 Thanks Dave.... That is what I had in mind. All the best.... Richard
Dave, could you supply a link for the belt & pullies for your stepper mount?
And what's that some sort of chuck backplate you have mounted?
Hi Dave. First - thank you for sharing. I found your video by luck. It would help if PM-1022 was in the title.
I have the same lathe but built my Clough42 ELS for my old lathe. I am now in the process of installing it on this new PM-1022
The links to the pulleys suggest 60 tooth GT2 pulleys. I have not measured if they will fit the spindle once machined.
The ones in your video, look larger and the belt looks more like 9-10mm wide not a standard 6mm GT2.
Could you elaborate or give some dims?
Thank you in advance.
Mike S.
Michal,
I updated my title first. Second, I think the correct pulley set I used was is now listed above with correction. I think all had to be probably be fit to the shaft, ie bored out, especially the one for the Motor to encoder, as I can't remember what it looked like disassembled, as that one is the passthrou for material. Anyhoo, got a follow up question after the update, let me know.
@@davegomez9798 Thanks Dave. I think I got the right parts on order. I will use your STL with my DIY CNC ;-) Mill to machine the brackets.
Dave, I like the use of the same size gears, and the implementation, for the encoder drive, where did you get the gears from?, well done
Hi Dave. Do you happen to have the part number for the encoder you used? I have ordered most the parts I need to do this on my PM-1030 but didn't see where you said what part number you used for that. Thanks for the STL files also. Nice work!
Chuck, this was in my Amazon history, 1000P/R Shaft 8mm Push Pull Output 5 to 26V Hollow Shaft Rotary Encoder a.co/d/9QemmSY
Sadly, it’s twice what I paid 3 yrs ago, but it does work well.
@@davegomez9798 I think everything is at least twice as much as it was even year ago now if not more... forget about 3 years. :/ Thanks for the info. Can
t wait to get going on my conversion.
Hello Dave... Just a quick question. I am looking at buying the PM-1022 or PM-1030. I am new to this hobby and was wondering if you thought that the extra 8" of length of the 1030 was worthwhile? The PM-1030 would be a tighter fit for my shop, but I could fit it. Have you found the PM-1022 to have enough length?
If you have the space and money get the longer lathe. It will take but one project to make it worthwhile!
@@UncleKennysPlace Thanks!
Would you make and sell the mounts for this setup I have a PM1030 and would love to do this but don't have a Mill to make the mounts. Thanks
not for general production for sure, but easy enough to make a one off. I would not make you one until you tried the 3d print to verify that it would fit correctly, or what mods you made to make it work (I can share the fusion 360 model also). I'm pretty railed for time over the next 4-6 weeks for sure, but probably get you to it by mid february or so. Note I used my 3d print for 6 months with no issues, so you can do that to tide you over.
@@davegomez9798 how do I get the 3D files. Oh and Thank you for getting back to me so quickly
They are here: www.printables.com/model/247290-clough42-els-supporting-files
@@davegomez9798 Thanks