Jon, before loosening the pinch bolts I use a light-colored pencil to mark the "as-found" position of both eccentrics. It's a good opportunity to check them for symmetry, too. After adjustment I re-check them for symmetry. My own preference is to apply simultaneous force to both eccentrics (i.e. a pair of hex tools is needed) because this is what the Kawasaki racing team guys did back in the day!
Glad this exists. My 1994 Triumph Daytona 1200 has this same type of system for the back axle, noticed it had 50mm play while doing a chain cleaning today and I really wanted to see a video of these eccentric axles before trying to adjust mine.
I love these educational videos because I have the same exact bike you do. You are right to the point and have good information and clean video/audio, I really appreciate it!
This is so much easier than my other sport bikes....I thought you had to remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut and all that. Glad I looked this up first!
I might have missed it but you definitely should measure the slack on more than one place on the chain. If you don't - you might come for a surprise because the chain never extends equally. If you're unlucky your chain will be like a guitar string at some points when you rotate the wheel...
One of the best guides I've ever seen for anything, period as you Americans like to say :-) When I first saw these fittings I panicked, but found your video and all was well in the world again. Thank you for taking the time to produce and share such a wonderfully presented demonstration. I have subscribed and am hoping to learn more from you about this awesome bike. Have you checked out the 2020 yet? In case you're interested: Just picked up the new Ninja 1000SX (finally has the Ninja epithet here in UK/Europe) and found that the bike has a tendency to steer to the right very slightly. Though the dealer will sort when it goes back for 600 first service check, I noticed that the concentric marks were not perfectly matched. Though only a 1/7 difference, I suspect this is enough to result in the right drift. If you have a view as to the drift causes, I can say the bike is brand new, everything is stock, I have tested on positive and negative cambers, tyre pressures good, no wheel vibrations suggesting balancing correct. The thing I cannot get my head round is that if the wheels are not perfectly true, does it trigger counter-steer (or positive steer as they now like to call it) or steer in the direction of the wheels if that makes sense. I've done 250 miles since Saturday, but weather has turned here in UK, so unable to conduct any real testing again, but I hope that a minor tweak to the wheel alignment will address this issue. Thanks again. Bob
Keep 'em coming Jon :-). I wish Kawasaki would fit smaller silencers for better paddock stand access, chain & brake caliper maintenance. I fitted some SP Engineering (a UK Co.) short stubby carbons which give great access, more pillion heel room and better sound.
The Abba superbike stand uses the swingarm pivot as its lifting point. That holds the bike very securely upright, with its rear tire off the ground. You can order it with accessories which pull the rear end down and lift the front wheel for removal. The Abba is also an excellent device when removing the rear shock or front forks. A Baxley front wheel chock is another great piece of equipment (and Made in USA). It too holds the bike upright and that makes using a rear stand a lot easier.
Just letting you know on the 2017- 18 ninja 1000 when you use motion pro slack setter tool you have to remove your muffler. It's easy only two bolts. Good videos.. Thanks😁
@Jonathan Long - If there was no chain on the bike, could that adjuster spin all the way around 360 degrees? If so, why are there only hash (tick) marks only partway on that adjuster? If not, what is preventing it from spinning all the way around? Also, did you even mention to loosen the nut that holds the rear caliper to the support rod so the axle can move? What about the range of sprocket teeth adjustment allowed with that chain adjuster. From one extreme to the other (max forward vs. max backward adjustment), what is the difference in teeth allowed? 3, 4, 5...? For example, if someone has a 45 tooth rear sprocket and the rear axle is in the highest position as show in your example, but instead they decide to go with a 50 tooth rear sprocket, will that adjuster allow enough "slack" to accommodate the "extra" 5 tooth rear sprocket? Also, what if the chain is already hitting the top of the swingarm with the rear axle in the highest position and someone wants to get a larger rear sprocket not only to change the way the bike accelerates, but also to try to space the chain more away from the swingarm. In adjusting for the additional chain slack needed for the larger rear sprocket, they will lower the axle that thus negate the spacing a "fixed" height rear axle would have given them. These types of adjusters have both pros and cons.
Good video. Check mine at 400 miles. Was at 30mm(in the spec) for I left it alone. Knowing the chain will still stretch some more. I'm still enjoying my 2018 Ninja 1000. Soon I'll be setting rider sag on the suspension.
Hi got a 2018 Z1000sx thanks so very much for all your info on our bike.how can I get your socket/ratchet set there is nothing over here in the uk like your,love cocker.
Hi , thanks for your video! I'm italian, i'm sorry for my english.. I wolud say: in my bike, after the regolation, the marks on both sides are not exactly the same, when I adjust one side it also moves to the other. Should I try to hold one side when adjusting the other? I tried but it's hard to keep one part locked. I have a Ninja 1000 Sx (year 2020)
Watching this as I'm about to do the adjustment on mine. I do have the manual but wanted the visual. One difference I noticed is that the torque spec for the pinch bolts is slightly different in my manual, which is for 2014-18 (mine is a 2014) and is 64 N-m or 47 ft-lbs.
Ok, but the manual and the shop at the dealer says to make the adjustments on BOTH sides. Could you clarify what you meant by the chain can be adjusted on one side?
The adjusters on both sides of the bike need to be rotated equally. This ensures that the rear wheel stays properly aligned. In my experience, because each adjuster is clamped on the axle, they rotate together even if you’re just turning one side. You should still verify that markings match up on both sides of the swing arm.
A lot of people seem to forget is that you should adjust your chain with someone similar to your weight sitting on the bike, because it will actually tension up more with someone sitting on it and if you will over tighten it if you bring it to 25mm and then add your weight. I did this and my chain snapped by overtaking a car on a highway
That's incorrect. The 20-30mm slack measurement is supposed to be taken without a rider on the bike, and the bike on its sidestand. The chain will not to be too tight at any point throughout the suspension stroke if you follow those guidelines. It sounds like something else caused your chain to snap.
Hi Jon, you're videos are excellent and I find them really useful however I'm a bit confused is it the maximum distance between chain movement? I'm presuming you move it up and then measure from the highest point to the lowest point?
Hi Andy, thanks for the note. Yes, to measure the chain slack, you measure from the high point (pushing the chain up) to the low point (pushing the chain down). Make sure you measure from the same point on the chain for both the high and low measurements.
Marc S I think he was saying that you can use the built in measurement on the axle assembly to check. If you’re at precisely the same notch & partial notch on each side, you should be aligned.
If your on a long road trip with no access to a center stand...is it possible to make this adjustment on the bike's side stand or will the weight of the bike preclude the rear wheel from moving? The bike is sold as a sport touring bike but they dont make a center stand for it...ie a 3 to 4 week road trip without access to a shop could be an issue...I am looking at buying this model but that question is the hold up???
Although the adjustment is supposed to be made with the rear wheel suspended, I’m pretty sure you could make the adjustment with the bike on the ground. You would just need to make sure that your Allen wrench has enough leverage to make a controlled adjustment. Another option would be to look at something like the Snap Jack or Pack Jack. Those help lift the bike onto the kickstand to get the rear wheel off the ground. That would make it easier to lube the chain, too. The NInja is a great sport touring bike, but it is missing some of the more common touring amenities (cruise control and center stand).
Hi, I've the model of 2021 - it's the same procedure. But to be honest, the chain slack of 20-30mm is too less; I did the adjustment with 40-45mm and this works really fine; with this adjustment the chain slack is sufficiently correct for one and also for 2 persons on the bike - without any risk to destroy the chain and/or the shaft bearing; if you adjust the chain slack to the values you can find in the driver's manual (20-30mm on the kickstand) and then you sit down on the bike, you will see that the chain is stretched - that's not good!
I'm using a T-Rex stand (www.t-rex-racing.com) and LighTech spools. For the spools, I'm using a 1/4" extended bolt and a 1/4" spacers to get the spools a little further away from the swingarm. That modification is not necessary, but it made it easier for me to avoid having the cradles of the paddock stand accidentally touch the swingarm.
That would only happen if you adjusted the gearing (remove a tooth or two in the front or rear sprocket) or the chain stretched quite a lot. If it’s chain stretch, then you’re probably due for a replacement, and likely need to replace the sprockets too.
Not necessarily. It is true that you should replace your chain if it stretches so far that you need to max out your adjuster, but that may be well past when the chain should have been replaced. You may want to look up guidelines on when to replace your chain. Things like tight and loose sections of the chain, sprocket wear, mileage, and general condition of the chain are usually a better indicator.
so easy-to-follow-video. I do have one question though...what if the notches do not align properly!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How do we set that straight!!!????? :( Thank you in advanced Sir!
You can adjust it from one side, but you need to make sure that it moves equally on both sides. Check the alignment on both sides to make sure they're equal.
@@JonLong hey man, I just tightened my chain but it still makes noises when at speed. I know it's hitting the chain guard, the lower part. does that mean it's too lose?
If you overtighten enough, you could strip the threads in the swingarm. If you undertighten, the chain adjuster could slip. You never NEED a torque wrench, but it’s up to you to make sure the bolts are properly torqued. This is an instructional video, so I emphasize the importance of proper torque. When working on my own, I have a good sense of torque, but still use a torque wrench for very high and very low torque values, or on super critical components such as brake caliper mounting bolts.
@@bikerdave1727 hey man, I just tightened my chain but it still makes noises when at speed. I know it's hitting the chain guard. does that mean it's too lose?
I was hoping nobody noticed! I realized the mistake after I uploaded the video and didn’t feel like going back to correct it (although I did note the error in the video description).
I tightened mine to that spec and it’s way too tight. So tight it’s making a binding noise as I rotate the wheel. So I loosened it. Rather too loose than too tight.
Of course the measurement will be the same on the kick stand because you have the weight of the bike on the paddock stand/bobbins. Theres no difference
When the bike is on the paddock stand, all of the weight for the rear of the bike is supported by the rear suspension. When the kickstand is down, however, part of the weight is supported by the kickstand, which takes some of the weight off the rear suspension. Also, the kickstand can limit how much the suspension compresses. It’s common practice for manufacturers to specify whether the chain slack measurement is taken on the side stand or not.
You did not find the tight spot on the chain. Fail !!!! There is no need to do this on a paddock stand. You should do this adjustment on the side stand where the correct tension is measured. Double fail !!! A youtube channel does not make you a good mechanic.
I address both of those points specifically, before even starting the adjustment. It usually helps to watch the video before commenting on what you think was missed.
That's an awesome way to adjust a chain. Wish more bikes were like this.
Jon, before loosening the pinch bolts I use a light-colored pencil to mark the "as-found" position of both eccentrics. It's a good opportunity to check them for symmetry, too. After adjustment I re-check them for symmetry.
My own preference is to apply simultaneous force to both eccentrics (i.e. a pair of hex tools is needed) because this is what the Kawasaki racing team guys did back in the day!
Glad this exists. My 1994 Triumph Daytona 1200 has this same type of system for the back axle, noticed it had 50mm play while doing a chain cleaning today and I really wanted to see a video of these eccentric axles before trying to adjust mine.
I hadn’t seem them on any other bikes. I’m glad to know it was helpful!
Thanks for the guide, just adjusted my chain for the first time. I was at 6cm of slack!!!
That's a lot! I'm glad you were able to get it properly adjusted!
I love these educational videos because I have the same exact bike you do. You are right to the point and have good information and clean video/audio, I really appreciate it!
Hi Jonathan,
Thank you for making this video, I adjusted my chain today and was very excited to do it myself.
This is so much easier than my other sport bikes....I thought you had to remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut and all that. Glad I looked this up first!
I might have missed it but you definitely should measure the slack on more than one place on the chain. If you don't - you might come for a surprise because the chain never extends equally. If you're unlucky your chain will be like a guitar string at some points when you rotate the wheel...
Just bought a 2017 Ninja 1000 today so this video is so helpful. Thanks very much Jonathon.
Excellent guide video, many thanks, and so glad you didn't have any awful music playing on a loop
@Jonathan Long - 1:07 - that is not vertical movement, that is movement perpendicular to the chain which is not perfectly vertical.
One of the best guides I've ever seen for anything, period as you Americans like to say :-)
When I first saw these fittings I panicked, but found your video and all was well in the world again.
Thank you for taking the time to produce and share such a wonderfully presented demonstration. I have subscribed and am hoping to learn more from you about this awesome bike.
Have you checked out the 2020 yet?
In case you're interested:
Just picked up the new Ninja 1000SX (finally has the Ninja epithet here in UK/Europe) and found that the bike has a tendency to steer to the right very slightly. Though the dealer will sort when it goes back for 600 first service check, I noticed that the concentric marks were not perfectly matched. Though only a 1/7 difference, I suspect this is enough to result in the right drift.
If you have a view as to the drift causes, I can say the bike is brand new, everything is stock, I have tested on positive and negative cambers, tyre pressures good, no wheel vibrations suggesting balancing correct.
The thing I cannot get my head round is that if the wheels are not perfectly true, does it trigger counter-steer (or positive steer as they now like to call it) or steer in the direction of the wheels if that makes sense.
I've done 250 miles since Saturday, but weather has turned here in UK, so unable to conduct any real testing again, but I hope that a minor tweak to the wheel alignment will address this issue.
Thanks again.
Bob
Keep 'em coming Jon :-). I wish Kawasaki would fit smaller silencers for better paddock stand access, chain & brake caliper maintenance. I fitted some SP Engineering (a UK Co.) short stubby carbons which give great access, more pillion heel room and better sound.
Abba Stand. TH-cam it 😉
The Abba superbike stand uses the swingarm pivot as its lifting point. That holds the bike very securely upright, with its rear tire off the ground. You can order it with accessories which pull the rear end down and lift the front wheel for removal. The Abba is also an excellent device when removing the rear shock or front forks.
A Baxley front wheel chock is another great piece of equipment (and Made in USA). It too holds the bike upright and that makes using a rear stand a lot easier.
Just letting you know on the 2017- 18 ninja 1000 when you use motion pro slack setter tool you have to remove your muffler. It's easy only two bolts. Good videos.. Thanks😁
You make it so easy to understand ,keep up the good work .👍
Thanks!
@Jonathan Long - If there was no chain on the bike, could that adjuster spin all the way around 360 degrees? If so, why are there only hash (tick) marks only partway on that adjuster? If not, what is preventing it from spinning all the way around? Also, did you even mention to loosen the nut that holds the rear caliper to the support rod so the axle can move? What about the range of sprocket teeth adjustment allowed with that chain adjuster. From one extreme to the other (max forward vs. max backward adjustment), what is the difference in teeth allowed? 3, 4, 5...? For example, if someone has a 45 tooth rear sprocket and the rear axle is in the highest position as show in your example, but instead they decide to go with a 50 tooth rear sprocket, will that adjuster allow enough "slack" to accommodate the "extra" 5 tooth rear sprocket? Also, what if the chain is already hitting the top of the swingarm with the rear axle in the highest position and someone wants to get a larger rear sprocket not only to change the way the bike accelerates, but also to try to space the chain more away from the swingarm. In adjusting for the additional chain slack needed for the larger rear sprocket, they will lower the axle that thus negate the spacing a "fixed" height rear axle would have given them. These types of adjusters have both pros and cons.
Good video. Check mine at 400 miles. Was at 30mm(in the spec) for I left it alone. Knowing the chain will still stretch some more. I'm still enjoying my 2018 Ninja 1000. Soon I'll be setting rider sag on the suspension.
@Nirvash - chains don't stretch, they are not rubber bands. They elongate due to wear. Saying a chain "stretches" makes you sound like a noob.
Hi got a 2018 Z1000sx thanks so very much for all your info on our bike.how can I get your socket/ratchet set there is nothing over here in the uk like your,love cocker.
This is what I use. I ordered from Amazon. th-cam.com/video/bT7Kn3PznIg/w-d-xo.html
Very clear instruction, keep the videos coming!
Hi , thanks for your video! I'm italian, i'm sorry for my english.. I wolud say: in my bike, after the regolation, the marks on both sides are not exactly the same, when I adjust one side it also moves to the other. Should I try to hold one side when adjusting the other? I tried but it's hard to keep one part locked. I have a Ninja 1000 Sx (year 2020)
Thanks so much for the vid!! Picking up a new 2017 tomorrow. Moving up from the Ninja 400.
so is this the correct way to adjust the chain? using paddle stand? can you adjust the chain slack using only the side stand? my is zx6r 2019
I answer this question at 01:20
Great info, found your video while searching how to adj a 2000 Triump trophy, it has the same set up.
Thank you for your videos
You makes my life much easier 🙂
Hi. Do you have a video on how to allign the back wheel? Thx!
Excellent video, Jonathan. Very helpful.
Love your vids. More of you riding the Ninja would be awesome
I’m glad to hear that! I’ll be going on a long trip in about 2 weeks and I’ll be making a video for that.
Watching this as I'm about to do the adjustment on mine. I do have the manual but wanted the visual. One difference I noticed is that the torque spec for the pinch bolts is slightly different in my manual, which is for 2014-18 (mine is a 2014) and is 64 N-m or 47 ft-lbs.
Thanks Jonathan, did mine this afternoon and cleaned/lubed chain while I had the tip off!
Thank you Jonathon. All your videos very helpful
Thanks, glad to hear that!
So clearly explained and showed!!
What's your camera that you're filming with?! Images are so clean!
Thank you!!
Thanks this was good help, just did my first chain adjustment!
Thanks so much for this, just did mine for the first time also (actually first time ever) feels good :) baby steps... Will be learning servicing next.
Why exactly must the slack be checked on the sidestand? And why can't there be a conversion means of setting the slack while up on spools?
Hi what's brand and model of your key dinamometric? Thank you
Wow. Your bike is Sooooo clean. 😊
Very clear instructions. Thanks!
Ok, but the manual and the shop at the dealer says to make the adjustments on BOTH sides. Could you clarify what you meant by the chain can be adjusted on one side?
The adjusters on both sides of the bike need to be rotated equally. This ensures that the rear wheel stays properly aligned. In my experience, because each adjuster is clamped on the axle, they rotate together even if you’re just turning one side. You should still verify that markings match up on both sides of the swing arm.
It doesn’t work by only turning one side. You need to turn one side then the other to line them up properly b
A lot of people seem to forget is that you should adjust your chain with someone similar to your weight sitting on the bike, because it will actually tension up more with someone sitting on it and if you will over tighten it if you bring it to 25mm and then add your weight. I did this and my chain snapped by overtaking a car on a highway
That's incorrect. The 20-30mm slack measurement is supposed to be taken without a rider on the bike, and the bike on its sidestand. The chain will not to be too tight at any point throughout the suspension stroke if you follow those guidelines. It sounds like something else caused your chain to snap.
@@JonLong it was on its last legs and over tightened
Another very helpful video. Thank you Sir!
How is your chain so clean!
Really helpful video, easily followed, thanks.
awesome vid. Does the same apply to z900??
Thanks! No, I believe the Z900 has a conventional axle adjuster.
You're right!! I asked the question before watching the video *facepalm* Thanks man!
How much slack one inch is normal?
Hi Jon, you're videos are excellent and I find them really useful however I'm a bit confused is it the maximum distance between chain movement? I'm presuming you move it up and then measure from the highest point to the lowest point?
Hi Andy, thanks for the note. Yes, to measure the chain slack, you measure from the high point (pushing the chain up) to the low point (pushing the chain down). Make sure you measure from the same point on the chain for both the high and low measurements.
Very good explanation and thanks for that...could you also post a video how to allign the rear wheel...?
Marc S I think he was saying that you can use the built in measurement on the axle assembly to check. If you’re at precisely the same notch & partial notch on each side, you should be aligned.
If your on a long road trip with no access to a center stand...is it possible to make this adjustment on the bike's side stand or will the weight of the bike preclude the rear wheel from moving? The bike is sold as a sport touring bike but they dont make a center stand for it...ie a 3 to 4 week road trip without access to a shop could be an issue...I am looking at buying this model but that question is the hold up???
Although the adjustment is supposed to be made with the rear wheel suspended, I’m pretty sure you could make the adjustment with the bike on the ground. You would just need to make sure that your Allen wrench has enough leverage to make a controlled adjustment. Another option would be to look at something like the Snap Jack or Pack Jack. Those help lift the bike onto the kickstand to get the rear wheel off the ground. That would make it easier to lube the chain, too. The NInja is a great sport touring bike, but it is missing some of the more common touring amenities (cruise control and center stand).
@@JonLong thanks...good info I appreciate it
Rear and front wheel removal video will also be helpful
Do you know if this is the same procedure on the 2021 ninja 1000sx?
Hi, I've the model of 2021 - it's the same procedure. But to be honest, the chain slack of 20-30mm is too less; I did the adjustment with 40-45mm and this works really fine;
with this adjustment the chain slack is sufficiently correct for one and also for 2 persons on the bike - without any risk to destroy the chain and/or the shaft bearing; if you adjust the chain slack to the values you can find in the driver's manual (20-30mm on the kickstand) and then you sit down on the bike, you will see that the chain is stretched - that's not good!
@@andreas.kisser thank you!
Great video!!!! Def help me out!!!!! Thanks for the clear instructions!!!!!!
You’re welcome!
Once again I am doing emergency maintenance and Jonathan saves my butt lol.
What paddock stand and spools are you using? Thanks!
I'm using a T-Rex stand (www.t-rex-racing.com) and LighTech spools. For the spools, I'm using a 1/4" extended bolt and a 1/4" spacers to get the spools a little further away from the swingarm. That modification is not necessary, but it made it easier for me to avoid having the cradles of the paddock stand accidentally touch the swingarm.
No need for new thread lock?
Could you do a vid on rear and front wheel removal?
Yup! I plan on doing that in the next month or so when I replace my tires.
Just wondering, what happens when the adjuster reaches the last marking?
That would only happen if you adjusted the gearing (remove a tooth or two in the front or rear sprocket) or the chain stretched quite a lot. If it’s chain stretch, then you’re probably due for a replacement, and likely need to replace the sprockets too.
Jonathan Long ahhh so basically once you keep adjusting until the last marking, that's the indicator to change everything. Thanks!
Not necessarily. It is true that you should replace your chain if it stretches so far that you need to max out your adjuster, but that may be well past when the chain should have been replaced. You may want to look up guidelines on when to replace your chain. Things like tight and loose sections of the chain, sprocket wear, mileage, and general condition of the chain are usually a better indicator.
merci pour ta video cela ma bien aidé
so easy-to-follow-video.
I do have one question though...what if the notches do not align properly!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How do we set that straight!!!????? :(
Thank you in advanced Sir!
Charlie, you'll see Jon's answered that one in the posts below.
so I just need to adjust it from one side?
You can adjust it from one side, but you need to make sure that it moves equally on both sides. Check the alignment on both sides to make sure they're equal.
@@JonLong hey man, I just tightened my chain but it still makes noises when at speed. I know it's hitting the chain guard, the lower part. does that mean it's too lose?
thanks awesome guide helps me allot
Thanks, I’m glad to hear that!
Thank you. Now I can head off to Galway))
you have 190\55 190\50 ??
190/50. Stock size.
You. Are a godsent
good video
Wow that is a clean bike
Why can't all bike have their chains adjusted like this?
I'm sticking to the older models they are less complicated
you seriously have to use a torque wrench ? What would happen if you over tighten ?
If you overtighten enough, you could strip the threads in the swingarm. If you undertighten, the chain adjuster could slip. You never NEED a torque wrench, but it’s up to you to make sure the bolts are properly torqued. This is an instructional video, so I emphasize the importance of proper torque. When working on my own, I have a good sense of torque, but still use a torque wrench for very high and very low torque values, or on super critical components such as brake caliper mounting bolts.
Another video idea is chain change and maybe sproket, spark plug change.
Hey man are going to adjust engine or chain ...why all of that u made it so hard operation ...
10lbs of pressure why do you do this
Chain seems too tight in video
Agree, the chain should only be adjusted when fully loaded, as the swing arm moves up it tensions the chain
@@bikerdave1727 hey man, I just tightened my chain but it still makes noises when at speed. I know it's hitting the chain guard. does that mean it's too lose?
Nice Vid but it’s an eccentric adjuster. If it was concentric it wouldn’t move the axle.
I was hoping nobody noticed! I realized the mistake after I uploaded the video and didn’t feel like going back to correct it (although I did note the error in the video description).
I tightened mine to that spec and it’s way too tight. So tight it’s making a binding noise as I rotate the wheel. So I loosened it. Rather too loose than too tight.
So, is 56 mm too much slack? Just kidding, it's more like 60 mm.
Thanks for the video.
Of course the measurement will be the same on the kick stand because you have the weight of the bike on the paddock stand/bobbins. Theres no difference
When the bike is on the paddock stand, all of the weight for the rear of the bike is supported by the rear suspension. When the kickstand is down, however, part of the weight is supported by the kickstand, which takes some of the weight off the rear suspension. Also, the kickstand can limit how much the suspension compresses. It’s common practice for manufacturers to specify whether the chain slack measurement is taken on the side stand or not.
With a folding stick ... I do it in 70 seconds.
"Every 600 miles or so..." Uh, oh.
Do you really need all these tools man? I could do it with my nails ...
No, you don’t need all these tools. But my nails are SAE, not metric, so I have to use tools.
Troppe chiacchiere e troppi scrupoli ma chiaro.
Wish you didn't suck at explaining this
you have to check the chain slack every 600 miles ??? what a pain thats gotta be , I'm glad my bike has a drive shaft !
Amen to that.
The convenience of shaft drive gives you the extra time to watch videos about chain adjustment. Interesting pastime for sure! 😉
You speak too much!!! Its explainable in 2 minutes.
Good idea! I’ll keep doing what I’m doing, but you should make 2 minute videos with less talking!
You did not find the tight spot on the chain. Fail !!!!
There is no need to do this on a paddock stand. You should do this adjustment on the side stand where the correct tension is measured. Double fail !!!
A youtube channel does not make you a good mechanic.
I address both of those points specifically, before even starting the adjustment. It usually helps to watch the video before commenting on what you think was missed.