Kudos to you, but how on earth do you know how to do all this? It was mind-boggling but impressive watching and listening to you explain all this... Gas tees, tracer wires, and all the connecting pieces to make everything work! And it's not just water you're talking about but also gas and technical communication lines. I am curious how you know how to do all that needs to be done? Your intelligence and gung-ho "can do" attitude are admirable. Reaching out to the City and getting their cooperation shows you have good rapport with the people around you, too. Keep up the good work. The end is in sight and RVers will be coming to stay soon!
That is a great question "How do I know how to do this" and one that took some thought. It really comes down a mix of related past experiences (nothing even close to this RV Park project though), technical installation docs on the MLEC (power company) website, manufacture product websites, watching installs progress on neighbor's lots, watching lots of TH-cam videos, watching contractors Linden Camp hired for parts of previous build outs, trial and error, asking lots of questions and most importantly..... LISTENING and applying COMMON SENSE to weed out conflicting information and determine the best way to do the build out in my opinion! For example, one source instructed me to put the 2" HDPE pipe all the way into the valves/Tees (about 2") before cranking them down. Another source said to have the HDPE pipe stick out 3/4" to 1" past the rubber seal instead of 2" previously instruction. In our first valve installation we did 2". All the remaining ones, we did 3/4 to 1" because that made more sense (so the mechanical blue clamps could pull the rubber seal in tight without bottoming out). The 1 1/2" Communication PVC & Flower pot idea came about in an interesting way. MLEC had diagrams on how to bury 1" PVC for a future buried fiber Internet install which included the flower pots (Irrigation value box w/cover) and the contractors out here were installing this setup when they installed the electrical PVC. So we decided to expand MLEC's future fiber PVC design to include more locations on the property including all the RV sites. When I went to buy 1" PVC conduit, we were under supply chain issues and 1" PVC was hard to find. So we went with 1 1/2" PVC for the comm backbone and then did 1" PVC to all the RV sites when the supply chain caught up. Now we can run anything (coax, fiber, cat-6, speaker wire, anything in the future, etc) anywhere including to the individual RV Sites. #comettroy
Hi! We assume you are asking about the water meter. It is a 2" water meter. So we have a 2" tap at the road, which flows in 2" HDPE to the water meter. Then out of the water meter to 2" HDPE to provide water to the entire park.
A few reasons: 1) Almost had a forest fire a year ago by our big bonfire pit and a fire hydrant there provides water for safety reasons. 2) The water engineer recommended staking the end of the 600' of 2" HDPE because of the water mass flowing down the pipe can move the pipe when flow rate is interrupted. We decided to stake the end with a fire hydrant. 3) a method to flush out the 600' of pipe if necessary. 4) can connect a 2" hose and fill up tanks or trucks (or hot tubs) rapidly at 400 g/min. This is the only way to get access to the full capacity of the backbone as the rest is buried 24" under. 5) novelty reasons and perhaps fun in the Tennessee summer heat!
@@RvParkBuilder check with your insurance company - they should almost certainly reduce your annual premium for having the fire hydrant installed! I know in our area, with well water only, the farther from a hydrant, the higher the cost of insurance, and our hydrants are not under pressure, they are actually fire ponds with red standpipes from which the pumper trucks have to come fill up their tanks and ferry the water to the fire site.
Yes you can. But if you do and there is a leak at one of your RV sites, you will have to turn them ALL off at the main water supply to repair the leak at the one RV site unless you also pair the "Tee" connectors with shutoff valves.
Thank you Troy! Very well explained. Happy Easter🐇
Thanks for the feedback! Happy Easter to you as well!
Very good video and explanation. Congratulations on your progress.
Thanks Dad! Better hurry up and get back down here before we have all the work done! BaaHaaBaa
Thinking about coming down for your April celebration at the end of the month. I have to get my taxes done 1st.
You certainly have a clear vision, and I love that you have thought to include infrastructure for whatever the future brings.
Thanks Nancy! We appreciate you!
Kudos to you, but how on earth do you know how to do all this? It was mind-boggling but impressive watching and listening to you explain all this... Gas tees, tracer wires, and all the connecting pieces to make everything work! And it's not just water you're talking about but also gas and technical communication lines. I am curious how you know how to do all that needs to be done? Your intelligence and gung-ho "can do" attitude are admirable. Reaching out to the City and getting their cooperation shows you have good rapport with the people around you, too. Keep up the good work. The end is in sight and RVers will be coming to stay soon!
That is a great question "How do I know how to do this" and one that took some thought. It really comes down a mix of related past experiences (nothing even close to this RV Park project though), technical installation docs on the MLEC (power company) website, manufacture product websites, watching installs progress on neighbor's lots, watching lots of TH-cam videos, watching contractors Linden Camp hired for parts of previous build outs, trial and error, asking lots of questions and most importantly..... LISTENING and applying COMMON SENSE to weed out conflicting information and determine the best way to do the build out in my opinion!
For example, one source instructed me to put the 2" HDPE pipe all the way into the valves/Tees (about 2") before cranking them down. Another source said to have the HDPE pipe stick out 3/4" to 1" past the rubber seal instead of 2" previously instruction. In our first valve installation we did 2". All the remaining ones, we did 3/4 to 1" because that made more sense (so the mechanical blue clamps could pull the rubber seal in tight without bottoming out).
The 1 1/2" Communication PVC & Flower pot idea came about in an interesting way. MLEC had diagrams on how to bury 1" PVC for a future buried fiber Internet install which included the flower pots (Irrigation value box w/cover) and the contractors out here were installing this setup when they installed the electrical PVC. So we decided to expand MLEC's future fiber PVC design to include more locations on the property including all the RV sites. When I went to buy 1" PVC conduit, we were under supply chain issues and 1" PVC was hard to find. So we went with 1 1/2" PVC for the comm backbone and then did 1" PVC to all the RV sites when the supply chain caught up. Now we can run anything (coax, fiber, cat-6, speaker wire, anything in the future, etc) anywhere including to the individual RV Sites.
#comettroy
This was very informative. I am building a similar park in Missouri. I am curious about size of the outlet coming out of the meter?
Hi!
We assume you are asking about the water meter. It is a 2" water meter. So we have a 2" tap at the road, which flows in 2" HDPE to the water meter. Then out of the water meter to 2" HDPE to provide water to the entire park.
Just curious why you were so excited about putting in a fire hydrant?
A few reasons:
1) Almost had a forest fire a year ago by our big bonfire pit and a fire hydrant there provides water for safety reasons.
2) The water engineer recommended staking the end of the 600' of 2" HDPE because of the water mass flowing down the pipe can move the pipe when flow rate is interrupted. We decided to stake the end with a fire hydrant.
3) a method to flush out the 600' of pipe if necessary.
4) can connect a 2" hose and fill up tanks or trucks (or hot tubs) rapidly at 400 g/min. This is the only way to get access to the full capacity of the backbone as the rest is buried 24" under.
5) novelty reasons and perhaps fun in the Tennessee summer heat!
@@RvParkBuilder check with your insurance company - they should almost certainly reduce your annual premium for having the fire hydrant installed! I know in our area, with well water only, the farther from a hydrant, the higher the cost of insurance, and our hydrants are not under pressure, they are actually fire ponds with red standpipes from which the pumper trucks have to come fill up their tanks and ferry the water to the fire site.
Can you use water PVC pipe and use T connector to branch out to individual RV sites?
Yes you can. But if you do and there is a leak at one of your RV sites, you will have to turn them ALL off at the main water supply to repair the leak at the one RV site unless you also pair the "Tee" connectors with shutoff valves.