Hi Mike I’m just sending you this message to say a big thank you for all your videos , I’m a massive Land Rover fan but more importantly the videos help with my depression! Strange I know but I look forward to watching them . Your a very cheerful bloke with an amazing attitude to life, thanks again 😀
Thanks mike for doing these video's. I do hope your making a load of money out of it. and if your not, well thank you for taking the time and effort for showing us all how to save a few quid. Thank you....
If i was using that stub again I would run a smear of loctite master gasket around the worn surface just to stop the bearing spinning. Have done it very successfully on semi trailer axles running in outback Australia. It is always interesting seeing the size difference between quality bearings and cheap crap . On my own Land Rovers running quality bearings i get at least 200k out of each bearing , no name lucky to get 50k from my experience. As always cheers from Australia
Pete - in 40 years of land Rovers I have never had a wheel bearing fail - never used Loctite - but lots of folk preload too much or overload with grease Respect Mike
Britannica Restorations Ltd the loctite trick is only for damaged stubs to get out of trouble. Oxy and hammer and chisel gets them off when they need to come off . I have never had a Land Rover wheel bearing fail either, worn out hell yes but not fail . Quality grease and bearings is the key along with correct adjustment. I just cannot get my head around ppl that either repack or replace bearings as a regular service item . I check the feel of the bearings when I change tyres at around the 60 / 80k mark and inspect at about 150k . I regularly travel on some of the worst roads Australia has to offer . It is normal for me to do a few thousand k of corrugated roads that shake your fillings out a month. The D1 300tdi auto has a few rattles but handles it with ease and in comfort .
@@BritannicaRestorations I'd be interested to see how much grease you use. Because there is a bit of space between the bearings I put quite a lot of grease in. Always wondered where the "too much" mark was. As for end float, I tighten up good once then undo, then do as tight as possible with my fingers then give it just a tiny bit with a socket. Always keep my old bearings for emergencies too.
Helpful video. gotta love a set of callipers. My incoming 90 has an MOT advisory say OSF wheel bearing has slight play. Nothing major I know but is it a replacement or can I do anything to reduce that?
The rounded section on the rear of the bearing fits the rounded section on the stub axle... It's rounded for stress relief, much much stronger then a sharp corner, a crack will not start on a rounded profile...
Quick question. Ive found a 90 defender 90 in the states that was restored by defendersdirect, its got 92,000km. My question to you is, will this end up as a money pit? Haha
if your cheap Chinese bearing , ie no makers name . Is such a bad fit like that one , or a worn hub , you can always centre dab the shaft to tighten it up , about a hundred dabs where the bearing inner sits raises enough metal not to give any hassles in the future , old lorry bearing trick
That bearing shouldn't be a loose fit like that ! There is No interface. The inner bearing should be an interference fit. Either the bearing is wrong or more likely the stub is worn. Inner bearing race should be tight on the stub
@@BritannicaRestorations I'm not saying hammer fit. For years i cool the stub in freezer and heat the bearing to mate the 2 together If your right what stops the inner race from spinning on the stub ? Each to our own I suppose LOL. Love your channel keep up the great work !!!
An interference fit would mean a bigger stub diameter than bearing internal diameter, and that wouldn’t be right. They should be a clearance fit, but a tight one. As you said, they certainly shouldn’t slide on easily.
I've put Timken bearings on used and brand new stub axles for my Disco and 110 over the years and they've always been a push fit - i.e. 2 thumbs is enough.
No markings on the bearing = cheap Chinese Britpart crap. Good bearings and a good condition stub axle will have minimal clearance, so the bearing will bind on the stub if it isn’t absolutely square at it slides on. If the bearing is easy to fit, something is out of tolerance.
Hi Mike I’m just sending you this message to say a big thank you for all your videos , I’m a massive Land Rover fan but more importantly the videos help with my depression! Strange I know but I look forward to watching them . Your a very cheerful bloke with an amazing attitude to life, thanks again 😀
Thanks mike for doing these video's. I do hope your making a load of money out of it. and if your not, well thank you for taking the time and effort for showing us all how to save a few quid. Thank you....
Thanks - it is not as easy as many think and does take time
If i was using that stub again I would run a smear of loctite master gasket around the worn surface just to stop the bearing spinning. Have done it very successfully on semi trailer axles running in outback Australia. It is always interesting seeing the size difference between quality bearings and cheap crap . On my own Land Rovers running quality bearings i get at least 200k out of each bearing , no name lucky to get 50k from my experience. As always cheers from Australia
Pete - in 40 years of land Rovers I have never had a wheel bearing fail - never used Loctite - but lots of folk preload too much or overload with grease
Respect
Mike
Britannica Restorations Ltd the loctite trick is only for damaged stubs to get out of trouble. Oxy and hammer and chisel gets them off when they need to come off . I have never had a Land Rover wheel bearing fail either, worn out hell yes but not fail . Quality grease and bearings is the key along with correct adjustment. I just cannot get my head around ppl that either repack or replace bearings as a regular service item . I check the feel of the bearings when I change tyres at around the 60 / 80k mark and inspect at about 150k . I regularly travel on some of the worst roads Australia has to offer . It is normal for me to do a few thousand k of corrugated roads that shake your fillings out a month. The D1 300tdi auto has a few rattles but handles it with ease and in comfort .
@@BritannicaRestorations I'd be interested to see how much grease you use. Because there is a bit of space between the bearings I put quite a lot of grease in. Always wondered where the "too much" mark was. As for end float, I tighten up good once then undo, then do as tight as possible with my fingers then give it just a tiny bit with a socket. Always keep my old bearings for emergencies too.
No more than 75% grease - it can overheat
Hi Mike very well done
Hi Mike thanks for the Video. It's "wunderbar". Greatings from Germany.
Jörg - it is you guys that keep this channel wunderbar!
Helpful video. gotta love a set of callipers. My incoming 90 has an MOT advisory say OSF wheel bearing has slight play. Nothing major I know but is it a replacement or can I do anything to reduce that?
Depends on what model - but pre Td5 had adjustable bearings
It’s a 1986 90 pick up but been fitted with heavy duty hubs. Not sure what hubs til I pick it up?
All hubs were the same on the 86 so should be adjustable, but anything could have changes over 36 years
The rounded section on the rear of the bearing fits the rounded section on the stub axle... It's rounded for stress relief, much much stronger then a sharp corner, a crack will not start on a rounded profile...
Quick question. Ive found a 90 defender 90 in the states that was restored by defendersdirect, its got 92,000km. My question to you is, will this end up as a money pit? Haha
....less quantity more quality?
if your cheap Chinese bearing , ie no makers name . Is such a bad fit like that one , or a worn hub , you can always centre dab the shaft to tighten it up , about a hundred dabs where the bearing inner sits raises enough metal not to give any hassles in the future , old lorry bearing trick
That bearing shouldn't be a loose fit like that ! There is No interface. The inner bearing should be an interference fit. Either the bearing is wrong or more likely the stub is worn. Inner bearing race should be tight on the stub
no - they should be a sliding fit - you should not have to hammer them on
@@BritannicaRestorations I'm not saying hammer fit. For years i cool the stub in freezer and heat the bearing to mate the 2 together If your right what stops the inner
race from spinning on the stub ? Each to our own I suppose LOL. Love your channel keep up the great work !!!
An interference fit would mean a bigger stub diameter than bearing internal diameter, and that wouldn’t be right. They should be a clearance fit, but a tight one. As you said, they certainly shouldn’t slide on easily.
I've put Timken bearings on used and brand new stub axles for my Disco and 110 over the years and they've always been a push fit - i.e. 2 thumbs is enough.
I forgot to say I’m from Northumberland UK
No markings on the bearing = cheap Chinese Britpart crap.
Good bearings and a good condition stub axle will have minimal clearance, so the bearing will bind on the stub if it isn’t absolutely square at it slides on. If the bearing is easy to fit, something is out of tolerance.