I just started wearing this shoe this week, and I love it! I went true to my street size US 12.5 / 13 and Euro 46.5. I have a big toe box, but these shoes feel good a tad tight but after climbing a few routes, definitely don’t feel uncomfortable. I was using the Scarpa helix and decided to give these a try.
I like the Finale's a lot, they are my go to shoe, a sleeker version of my TC Pros, and not as aggressive as my Miros. They are the shoe I wear more than any other. I wish that they had left them more barebones like the older version. I checked these out at the store yesterday and they feel/look more like the tarantulace shoes than the finale's I'm used to. They say unlined, but the tongue has a lot more padding than the old version.
I had the toe rand rub off on my left shoe where it meets the sole on the previous generation Finale (with orange highlights). The actual sole has a lot of life left in it. What's the point of a 5mm sole when the rand is the weakest link? I'm pretty disappointed with the longevity of this shoe out of the box.
Not to speak over a shoe rep, but the drawback of laces is not simply longer on and off. Laces will generally preclude more rubber from the toe and reduce structure of the toe box and will easily deform softer materials used for the upper. Thus, laces are on shoes which tend to be more for edging and with stronger and stiffer uppers, especially where toehooks are less the concern. The idea boulderers need velcro to downsize for easy on and off is ridiculous, I cannot physically get my feet into smaller shoes for sport climbing and wear enough sizes small most people shudder when I am breaking in shoes. No one is choosing the closure system based on how long they intend to be in the gym but on the benefits for the climbing style. Also, while they say the Finale is unlined, the microfiber really contains the stretch more than say a Solution which is properly unlined.
"The leather is also our eco-leather which is eco-friendly in the tanning process - no heavy metals are used so there's no nasty waste and byproducts to the shoe." - so this basically means that in all of La Sportivas "regular leather" shoes (so all climbing shoes besides the vegan shoes and the mythos eco and the cobra eco) you still use these "nasty" tanning processes? Why?!
Price and longevity. The reason "traditional" tanning still occurs it's very effective at creating a highly durable and color-fast product. "Eco" tanning just doesn't quite have the same result. Is it enough for the individual to notice? Probably not, but when a company is staking their reputation on the quality of a product, it becomes much more challenging to go the "eco" tanning route given the increased price and slightly reduced durability.
Getting any climbing shoe company to talk about the details of their lasts is like asking KFC for the 15 herbs and spices. They really do not like talking about it. In fact, most people within the companies simply don't know. The last design is one of the most significant elements of any shoe design and as such they prefer to keep it under wraps. We've tried to get information regarding last dimensions so we could compare them relative to each other on WeighMyRack.com/shoe - no company was willing to share last dimensions with us.
Unfortunately, La Sportiva is not a brand that does much in the way of vegan products. ONe thing to consider is the overall environmental impact and that includes downstream animal impacts. A shoe that uses leather can and will last much longer than many synthetic shoes. When you finally throw it away, there will be fewer plastics that need to breakdown. Ultimately, you may need to go to a different brand. It sucks because no other brands really fit me as well as LaSportiva.
I think there's now a vegan version of Skwama? And I agree that some "vegan" products don't last very long, I was once warned the glue comes apart quicker on vegan shoes...
Would love to see Sportiva offer Vegan leather in their products someday. If you consider the impact of animal agriculture, no animal leather is truly eco.
And synthetic leather doesn't biodegrade, releases microplastics into the environment after wear, and are typically made of either polyurethane or PVC, both of which require _and_ create dangerous chemicals during processing that are difficult to dispose of.
I just started wearing this shoe this week, and I love it! I went true to my street size US 12.5 / 13 and Euro 46.5. I have a big toe box, but these shoes feel good a tad tight but after climbing a few routes, definitely don’t feel uncomfortable. I was using the Scarpa helix and decided to give these a try.
what size did you get in the scarpa helix
fantastic shoe. learned to boulder the last 6 months in them. laces help for a great fit and leather upper is comfy
So, basically, this is the best beginner shoe regardless of price, right?
I like the Finale's a lot, they are my go to shoe, a sleeker version of my TC Pros, and not as aggressive as my Miros. They are the shoe I wear more than any other. I wish that they had left them more barebones like the older version. I checked these out at the store yesterday and they feel/look more like the tarantulace shoes than the finale's I'm used to. They say unlined, but the tongue has a lot more padding than the old version.
are they better than the helix. Debating on the helix and finale right now. Only thing I’m hesitant about is how thick and stiff the helix is.
I had the toe rand rub off on my left shoe where it meets the sole on the previous generation Finale (with orange highlights). The actual sole has a lot of life left in it. What's the point of a 5mm sole when the rand is the weakest link? I'm pretty disappointed with the longevity of this shoe out of the box.
Agreed. I thought to myself, "But how thick is the rand?" when he mentioned the sole being so thick as a positive.
that means you have poor technique. stop dragging your toes
Not to speak over a shoe rep, but the drawback of laces is not simply longer on and off. Laces will generally preclude more rubber from the toe and reduce structure of the toe box and will easily deform softer materials used for the upper. Thus, laces are on shoes which tend to be more for edging and with stronger and stiffer uppers, especially where toehooks are less the concern.
The idea boulderers need velcro to downsize for easy on and off is ridiculous, I cannot physically get my feet into smaller shoes for sport climbing and wear enough sizes small most people shudder when I am breaking in shoes. No one is choosing the closure system based on how long they intend to be in the gym but on the benefits for the climbing style.
Also, while they say the Finale is unlined, the microfiber really contains the stretch more than say a Solution which is properly unlined.
"The leather is also our eco-leather which is eco-friendly in the tanning process - no heavy metals are used so there's no nasty waste and byproducts to the shoe." - so this basically means that in all of La Sportivas "regular leather" shoes (so all climbing shoes besides the vegan shoes and the mythos eco and the cobra eco) you still use these "nasty" tanning processes? Why?!
Profit margin
Price and longevity. The reason "traditional" tanning still occurs it's very effective at creating a highly durable and color-fast product. "Eco" tanning just doesn't quite have the same result. Is it enough for the individual to notice? Probably not, but when a company is staking their reputation on the quality of a product, it becomes much more challenging to go the "eco" tanning route given the increased price and slightly reduced durability.
Lol, “lower quality asian made shoes”…not reading into that one.
Any difference in the width between mens and womens?
Getting any climbing shoe company to talk about the details of their lasts is like asking KFC for the 15 herbs and spices. They really do not like talking about it. In fact, most people within the companies simply don't know. The last design is one of the most significant elements of any shoe design and as such they prefer to keep it under wraps.
We've tried to get information regarding last dimensions so we could compare them relative to each other on WeighMyRack.com/shoe - no company was willing to share last dimensions with us.
Are there any shoes without leather?
La sportiva mythos eco
Unfortunately, La Sportiva is not a brand that does much in the way of vegan products. ONe thing to consider is the overall environmental impact and that includes downstream animal impacts. A shoe that uses leather can and will last much longer than many synthetic shoes. When you finally throw it away, there will be fewer plastics that need to breakdown. Ultimately, you may need to go to a different brand. It sucks because no other brands really fit me as well as LaSportiva.
I think there's now a vegan version of Skwama? And I agree that some "vegan" products don't last very long, I was once warned the glue comes apart quicker on vegan shoes...
Updated Skwama coming out soon? Otherwise not sure. Perhaps the Theory?
By vegan are they using synthetics or alternatives? I know that cactus "leather" has been coming along as a viable alternative
Would love to see Sportiva offer Vegan leather in their products someday. If you consider the impact of animal agriculture, no animal leather is truly eco.
And synthetic leather doesn't biodegrade, releases microplastics into the environment after wear, and are typically made of either polyurethane or PVC, both of which require _and_ create dangerous chemicals during processing that are difficult to dispose of.