Solar Fuse Sizing + Wiring Charge Controller to Battery Bank
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Today, I’m talking about solar fuse sizing and where to install fuses in a solar power system all while discussing the wiring between the solar charge controller to the solar battery bank.
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Hi! We are Michael + Jenny Justus. We post videos on our life of alternative + sustainable + healthy living. Our desire to live a more meaningful life led us to concoct a crazy plan: Downsize our belongings, ditch the "9-5," and move full-time into a solar-powered, self-sustainable tiny home on wheels with our two dogs, Chase + Roni. Taking this leap into the unknown has completely transformed our future, so be sure to hit that SUBSCRIBE button, join the Justus League, and follow along to see where the journey take us!
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Well presented sir. Watching from tiny country of Papua New Guinea...🇵🇬🙂👍
Here is the sizing of his system (in order) so you don't have to rewatch:
4 panels * 150 W = 600 W solar array (each panel is 150 W / 12 V = 12.5 A)
4 AWG wire
60 A fuse
Charge controller
60 A fuse
4 AWG wire
Battery bank
Although fuses are great and do work perfectly fine, I opted to use DC circuit breakers in my system. I like the ability to be able to isolate parts of the system with a push of a button if I need to-since basically the breaker is a switch as well as a protection against over current. They do cost a bit more than fuses, but I think in the long run they are a bit better. One thing to keep in mind for sure is to carry spares, you might want to put them in a box near your charge controller or similar so they are handy. Not that you should be blowing fuses, but you don't want to be without one if one does for some odd reason..... I know this video is over a year old, but its something you might want to consider in your next build. :) I ran 4 GA "welding" wire to all my stuff (its very thinly stranded for current carry) but I have it connected to 12VDC items mostly (Ham Radio station) and only a small inverter. Those batteries are nice though, not cheap but if you don't run them below 30% (preferably 50%) you'll get long life out of them for sure. Nice mobile setup!
Actually one of the best explanations I have come across.....
Wheres the reasoning and formula for the fuse size. Not a mention.
a trick: you can watch series at Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@Kylo Curtis definitely, have been watching on flixzone} for since december myself :D
@Kylo Curtis definitely, been using flixzone} for since november myself :)
3 replies, none show.
Doesn't explain fuse sizing in any meaningful way, however he does explain that the size is important. Title should be "the fuses I used in this van".
thanks a lot for the information sir. I am ready to start my own company of Solar installation
Thanks for the lesson, I'm currently installing solar on my motor home. I think your videos are practical, and well explained! Good job! and thanks again.
Thanks Steve 👍🏼
I like your sharing. I learned a lot how to design solar power system😁😀. soon to install mind. I am an electrician.
Omg! I need some advice.......I have a 100 watt flexi panel in which I was told 30amp fuse is what I need for the solar to controller, is that correct? Also, I have a 10amp mppt controller hooked to a 200ah battery & the battery is also connected to my battery isolator which I have a 150a fuse between those 2.....what size fuse should I use between my mppt & battery?
You have a sweet little setup.
Thanks alot for that explanation,it helps me alot.
Great video! thank you. Enjoying this series. Prayers for safe travels
Thank Great Video!
You are appropriately fused between the panels and the controller, but you could have gone higher between the controller and the batteries. Fuse sizing is based on wire/component current ratings. Between the panels and the controller the fuse should be the smaller of the current rating of the controller or the current capacity (ampacity) of the wire. The ampacity of a wire depends on it size (AWG# in north america and square millimeter cross section everywhere else) the type of insulation, the temperature rating and the application environment (wet, dry, engine space, etc.). Number 4 wire has a current capacity of 85amps for your application, so since your controller is a 60 amp controller the appropriate fuse size to protect the controller is 60 amps, which is lees than the wire's current capacity, so a 60 amp fuse is also OK for the wire. Had you wired your panels in series, assuming a 30' wire run, you could have used #14 wire which would have been fused at 15 amps (current rating for wet #14 wire). Between the batteries and the controller the limiting factor is the wire since the batteries can take much more current than your #4 wire. So a fuse of 85 amps would be as high as you would want to go. Consequently your 60 amp fuse is good since it s a higher current rating than your expected maximum output from your MPPT controller (~47 amps) with 600 watts of panels. A 60 amp fuse is big enough to prevent nuisance fuse blows but adequate to protect the wires.
My RV is a boat and in the marine environment we are a bit more redundant. Marine systems generally use both circuit breakers and fuses. In the marine environment the circuit breakers are sized to protect the wires and fuses are sized to protect components. For example I have two 50 watt panels on my boat's cabin top, They are wired in series using #14 duplex (2 conductor) wire to a 10 amp charge controller. The wire I used has an ampacity of 15 amps for wet conditions so I have a 15 amp circuit breaker to protect the wire AND a 10 amp fuse to protect the charge controller. Between the batteries and the controller I used #12 wire rated for 20 amps in the engine compartment of my boat where the batteries are, so I used a 20 amp circuit breaker to protect the wire. No fuse is needed in that situation since the breaker will pop long before anything could happen to the batteries.
A final comment, you don't have much leeway to increase your solar array size with your current controller. As long as you stay with a 12 volt battery bank you can add no more than one more 150 watt panel. However, if you went to a 24 volt battery bank you could go as high as 1600 watts of solar. That would require some other changes such as a 24 volt input inverter (more efficient than a 12 volt inverter) and likely a 24 volt to 12 volt DC to DC converter to run your 12 volt DC appliances.
Todd, thanks for the information. The video helped me a ton but you helped me fine tune the planning my new RV solar system. I'm ready to order parts now.
I'm not that sure on that particular model, but the one I got for my system will accept multiple input voltages as well as output voltages. Most of the "better" ones will do this-the cheaper MPPTs that don't do much....probably don't. I'd have to look up the specs on his. Mine is a Blue Sky Energy 3024iL and it supports multiple inputs (12, 24, 48) and multiple bank outputs as well. I know it senses the battery bank voltage automatically, I believe a few dip switches control the input, though that may be sensed as well. It handles 540W of panels wired at 12v (I have 500W currently) but if I decide to add more I'll have to change the setup to 24 if not higher, but I'd be able to retain my 12V battery bank (or I could reconfigure it as well). Its nice that some of the newer controllers give this kind of flexibility nowadays!
Mr. Dunn, I am having issues in understanding the fuse pick. I am going to install a in a 100 amp mppt. so am I to assume i need a 100 amp fuse on both sides? your help would be greatly appreciated
Good video and a nice description of why not wire your panels in series.
I agree. Series from the panels is better,if your CC can handle the voltage.
You and Fate Unbound should do a meet up. You’re both new escapers and probably around the same age
Super awesome as usual, Michael! :)
Thanks a lot for your video, my question is the change controler is it inverter or an other device
I'm really struggling to size up my cable and fuse sizes.
600w solar panals and 4000/8000inverter?
Thankyou for an excellent video!
Why does the fuse size differ I looked up what size to use with 60a mppt controller it said 80a fuse I also thought 60 can't we all get on the same page here
Hi, I have a similar set up differing in that I have 4 160 watt panels and I thought 2 each paralleled then series together from there. That gives me 640 watts total @ 43.2 Volts and 14.8 amps. My logic is 43 volts and 15 amps is a happy medium. My question is what size fuse do I need on the panel side and the charge controller side? I figured 8 gauge wire (no more than 18 feet) I can't seem to get an answer anywhere on this one.
Good information. You have a really nice system. Thanks
why didn't you use 6/8 gauge wire? they told me it is more efficient if your application is around that level.
Awesome video thumbs up, if I have 40A CC and a 120AH 12v deep cycle battery should I use 40A fuse, is the fuse size depends on the amperage of the CC?Thank
Greetings from kansas, thanks for doing these how to vids, I'm currently thinking of doing a tankless water heater on our van,we bought a 3500 watt predator inverter/ generator for the van im still contemplating solar. Safe travels 😎✌
OMG you are so funny and so so smart in doing what you do, I don't think I will be putting any solar on my RV yet, I think for the first couple of times out on the road I will just plug in to shore power until I learn more or if I really need solar at all, thanks so much, smarty pants, hahaha,. Terry
Thanks for the video. How do I determine what size fuse to use from a 100w solar panel to a 20 amp mppt charge controller?
Same question for the connection between a 1000w pure sinewave inverter to a 12v 90Ah sealed lead acid battery?
And the connection between the charge controller & the battery?
Thank you for your time.
Everything is 12v
Just an opinion, but from what it appears, 10awg and 30amp inline fuse seems a better fit, but not sure how you might have run in series/parallel Over fusing a system has drawbacks and puts things at a higher risk before they blow
I installed 3 Go power 190 watt panels with a 30 amp charge controller and I have it throw a fault and it flashed, looks to have had a spike I also have a 250 ah lithium battery. Should I have gotten a 40 amp mppt controller and should I add a 40 amp fuse when I installed Go power said I didn't need a fuse? Thanks
It looked like you used green colored wire as the battery system negative. It will work, but that is not the standard color for this use. Green wire normal means grounded to earth, which doesn't exist in most RV systems.
Michael! You have done a really awesome job clearing up all the mysteries of solar!! You’ve also presented it very nicely in a clear & concise manner!! Thank you for that!
My question is regarding the solar generators...what are the differences between the two systems, an array of PV panels & a bank of batteries with charge controller and inverter vs a (similarly powered) PV panel(s) connected to a generator (I’m assuming the solar generators are inverter-type).
I have a (newly-acquired) 20’ travel-trailer I want to run on solar... it DOES have an A/C but I don’t know the wattage. At present, it has ONLY a simple 12 v battery that is charged by the tow vehicle in-transit and either relies on shore power or a (rented) generator.
Originally I was thinking I needed both solar for normal use and a generator for A/C days. I keep seeing solar generators pop-up and wondering how they fit into the picture...
Thanks much! Your videos are all great! Of course, with this series, I’ve been missing your better half!! 😎. Look forward to seeing both of you soon!!
Lauri
Thanks Lauri! It looks like solar generator is just a more expensive (albeit convenient) way of getting off grid power. Cost per watt seems super high and it also doesn’t come with the panels to charge the generator. For low power usage, the solar generator would work in a pinch but if you need some serious off grid power, setting up your own system is the way to go. Hope this helps!
I have a App Ever 40 amp mppt charge controller, I have two t105 Trojans 225 amp hours. I also have a hundred watt Thunderbolt solar panel. I believe the amp rating is like 8.2 amps. What size fuse is best for the panel and what size fuse should I use between the batteries and the charge controller, I'm having a hard time finding out the correct amp fuse from batteries to charge controller. I guess I'm just a little paranoid lol, I just want to make sure. I am thinking 10 amps on both. Not sure. Even though I can go 40 amps on this charge controller, I'd rather stay within the rating of the panel. But I'm having a hard time finding out what the charge ain't amps are for two of the t105s combined
I just watched this whole video to only find out one thing,what gauge wire should be used between the solar controller and battery and altho it says it goes over the wiring I didnt learn anything about wiring.lol not a bad video just should be named differently
I was watching it to get the same information
Just for clarification: the fuse size depends on the wire thickness alone. It is not there to protect the components in your system. Components have their own fuses. The wire from the solar panels is a different story. At the back of the panel there is a recommended max fuse size. Use this size for the wire fuse but multiply by the amount of panels if it's put in parallel. Because of the voltage drop, you need to have big cables, therefore the wire size from panels to charge controller will be much bigger than it needs to to carry the current.
hi Mr.where/how you are connected the temp. sensor to battery bank?
I have a 7” High Performance 12V 80W electric radiator cooling fan for my 20’X 8.5’X8’ medal container with a 12” vent in the back of the container. I will be storing my furniture in this container while my new home is being built. I have a Renogy 12V 100W monocrystalline solar panel charging 2-1200wh 100ah batteries in parallel though a Renogy Rover 12V 60 Amp MPPT solar controller. I also have a 1500W Pure Sine Wave power inverter hooked to the batteries. My question is will this system run the 7” fan 24-7 and what size fuses should I install to protect these components? Also, should I install 3” fans aimed at the batteries in an effort to cool the batteries.
What I need to know is how many 200w panels I can have with a 30a controler.
Awesome! Thanks!
hi mate what fuse would i use coming of two soar panels joined together. could you also be able to help me with what use i would put at the start of my mains that comes from my 12v battery bank so it would be a master fuse before all my components.
Thanks for another great video...im also. taking in the info from Morton's on the Move... I'm hoping to design my own solar puzzle!
Tom is a great guy and really knows his stuff 👍🏼
When I'm calculating the distance for wire size will it be the 15 ft from my controller to the 2 batteries or the entire way from panels to bats. I already bought the 20 ft of 10 awg connected to the panels .
I love 4 awg Cables and use them for the Jumper / Balancing wires between the batteries in the bank ...
However- I have a EPever MPPT 40 Amp Controller to (6) 12v agm batteries (Balance charge / dis-charge).... and the holes for the cables to attach to the controller are too small for 4 awg... So I use 6 awg quick disconnects from forklifts lol.......is that ok? I am runnin (3) -150 watt panels that give me about 23-26 amps to the controller in full sun in parallel...
if each battery has a max of 10 amp input charge and you have 3 batteries would I set my output from my charger at 30 amps?
How do you approach the Battery maintenance issue..???
Hey Wilson. I will most likely do a video on this topic later
You sh'unt of confused me like that.
Hi there how are you , I have two 200w solar panels and I want to connect it by parallel... I want to know how many Ampere fuse can I put between My 2 , 150AH will connect again by parallel battery and 3000w 12V inverter .is there anyone out there can help me ? Thank you
No disconnect switches between panels and charge controller or between batts and inverter, this could also be done with circuit breakers too.
Cable management, could use some work. Use the walls to mount those fuses and shunt, and the missing switches/breakers.
Do you have any wire gauge recommendations for wire coming from controller to battery bank? We'll have two 150w panels feeding 2-3 deep cycle 12v batteries. Edit: After watching further I see you used 4 gauge. I would like to go with something a little smaller/higher gauge.
Great video. question, for one Pansonic 245watt, 12-volt panel, what size of inline fuses would you suggest for max protection? tks in advance. Paul
thanks for this video, please can you explain more to me about the shunt and the remote temperature sensor
you da man on this solar stuff. I think I will if you don't mind, I will be bending your ear for a bit. I really love you guys to, you two are the greatest...Take care and keep those videos coming. Much Love!
Thanks Charles! ☀️😎
Hi can you explain me how you make fuse between battery and the charge contrôler thank you very much
Friendly Mebrouk /Algeria
Is there any advantage of wiring four panels in series and parallel. Making the aray 24 volts?
24 volts would require smaller wires which would save you a decent amount of money depending on how far you are wiring them. After a certain distance, you really should go with 24v because the wiring for 12v would simply be impractical. Hope this helps 😎👍🏼
Question I want to put solar on a 12foot trailer I will be running up to 4 ham radios two power supplies to run them along with 2 antenna rotors . And 4 led lights how big of a system would I need I am not a tech guy so I don’t know how to figure that out I would be grateful for your ideas thanks
Forgot a laptop also I would want the system to be larger than what I need in case I was to add to it later on thanks
Help! I'm planning to put 12 100W 12v panels on my roof. If I run these all in parallel that would add up to 100A. If I run these into a combiner box it would require 1/0 cable to the charge controller. I don't think a 100A charge controller would take that large of cable. Any thoughts?
If you put your panels in series say (4) groups of panels connected in series you won’t need as thick of wire (depending on the length the wire is from the solar array to the charge controller.
Michael, when you mention in the video you used 4 gauge wire, did you use 4 AWG or 4/0 gauge wire? Thanks.
What amp wire do I need from the controller to the battery?
Great video! was wondering though, should your battery bank have a good source of ventilation?
Absolutely. We have a video that shows what we did to ventilate our bank 👉🏼 th-cam.com/video/01NS8sVEKmg/w-d-xo.html 👈🏼 Hope this helps!
What fuse should I use for two panels
Just a question, do you have your panels in parallel and the charge controller is mppt? if that is the case you are using the mppt inefficiently
I was going to make that comment.Should be in series for MPPT.
Are you sure about the series vs parallel statement that you made. Renergy commandeered that I connect my two RV panes in series. Are you sure that if one of the panels is shaded the result will be lower performance then if they were in parallel with one being shaded?
I believe that most panels come with bypass diodes installed so shading of one of the panels in a series array does not block the current from the rest of the panels. I would be surprised if his panels did not have bypass diodes installed.
Why are you still using wet batteries???
Hey there. I’ve watched many videos and I can’t figure out what size fuse to use between the batteries and inverter. I have a 2000 watt inverter. Any help would be appreciated.
im in the same boat, have you found an answer?
Hi,find out the current rating of the cable, this is the size of the CB or fuse
batteries are serial parallel? 2 in series that are parallel.
It’s a very general info without explaining how to size the fuse... not exactly what title suggested.
Starts at 4:22
Ok why not a dc to dc breaker?
I will be adding breakers to my system soon. Great question!
An electro-mechanical device like a breaker are subject to more types of failures than fuses. Condensation,humidity for corrosion... the finite amount of on/off transitions designed into the unit & much more. If going with all breakers... prepare & perform maintenance visual inspections at least monthly and allow downtime to test the ability of the breaker to indeed cycle on & off... ensuring it/they are not stuck/locked into a position via corrosion or whatever else.
Safety first crew !
but where are the mats, if you have a load 1000w or a 2000w your fusing should be different
Don't understand posters who won't or can't answer simple questions from their subscribers that are literally paying them to make videos. This is common across the platform. Sad.
Your fuse between panels and charge controller should not be in the bay it should be on the roof. Fuses should always be as close to the power source as possible. Always consider what happens if you cut the wires making a short circuit. If your fuse is 10 feet from the power source (panels) and you create a short circuit 5 feet from your power source that shortened circuit has no fuse and you have a fire.
Diagrams would have been better
Interesting, but this actually didn't tell me how to size my fuses, only generally told me how you determined what fuses you used. Not building this sized system.
😵
Useless video. All that talking and you didn't say a word about how to determine what size fuse you need.
Appreciate the feedback.
do you not answer any question
Way too much info I came for the title not all that extra stuff
I don’t like you or your videos. But I do wish you nothing but the best. You seem smart. I’m sorry. Just had to get that out.
WOW! This is bad, just plain bad. First off, those are flooded lead acid batteries. Secondly, they are placed in a small, apparently closed compartment with no specific route to exhaust the vented hydrogen gas that comes with charging. As you know, hydrogen is flammable and this represents a fire risk. It could get to hot exhaust, into the cabin or under the hood? Also, the tops of the batteries do not allow enough space to check water levels and refill. Even worse, the batteries are sitting on wood shelves and not even strapped down. At a minimum they should be inside an acid resistant enclosure. There is no spill control here. And there is no protection of these batteries from a side impact. This is just a careless, dangerous setup. Folks, avoid this kind of setup. If having to install a battery bank, use sealed AGM batteries or lithium. And please locate them where there is some protection from a collision.
Youre cute though..."
Does not tell you anything about fuse size calculations. Spends too much time waxing poetic about his other TH-cam videos. Don't waste your time on this one.
This was a lot of incoherent rambling! I'm MORE CONFUSED now after watching this! Why can't anyone explain things clearly?
Dave Hogan - You should start from the beginning and go through all of the videos in correct sequence, it'll make sense.
you didn't explain squat! You told me things, every logical person knows!!!