I would use an arduino. Easy to program and use Bluetooth to your phone. You could activate the pulse voltage with a 10 second delay so you can push the button on your phone and prep to shoot. You can also use a push button remote like a garage door opener or car door opener with the arduino.
Winch remote, one way bearings, and you should look into building a tube type magazine I’m building one my self. Thanks for all your videos, good stuff.
I'll have to think on the switch mechanism you need...and I'll have to rewatch the video and pay closer attention to the wiring you explained. My thought is to keep the park wire connected all the time, then have a remote switch between the brown and "reset" connection. Test this by not disconnecting the park wire from the power wire, and tap both wires to the rest wire.....It should then activate the park feature as you want. If this works, then all you need is a 12v remote control momentary switch...that will supply power to the "reset" wire as long as you apply pressure the switch. It will be a remote and a small receiver circuit that has the switch on the board (usually with terminals to connect all the wires). My thought would be to have a remote control momentary switch on a foot pedal...tap with your foot, resets the internal park interrupt, and since the park wire is still connected it will fire the motor one revolution. You should look up videos or info from guys that make their own Halloween and Christmas decorations...they use these motors in all sorts of ways like you are trying to do. They might give some ideas from their diy machines for your project here.
Keep the park wire constant hot. Then all you need is a momentary switch to activate the motor. Once you release the switch, it will automatically reset.
I know this is old, but you can add a cam onto your wiper motor shaft that hits a hinge lever momentary switch at a certain point and that can retrigger the brief contact you need and then wire the park feature to a Bluetooth or WiFi relay. You don’t need an arduino for this
Hi. you can find a "Universal Wireless Remote Control Switch DC 12V 10A 433MHz Transmitter with Receiver" for around $4 in some Chinese suppliers.(AliExpress) I'm using it for my homemade target launcher. All you have to do now is connect and press the command button. Just like a garage opener remote. Your system is awesome.
Have the brown wire briefly engaged by the wiper arm as it comes around(rocker switch?). Red wire can then be hard wired to battery operated light(bulb) in fixture with remote switch. Now it's just a matter of interrupting power temporarily with same red wire on same rocker switch(as brown is engaged, red is disengaged). Works in my head...
Hi Clay, You might go to your local Sporting Clays/Skeet/Trap club. I have shot a lot of clay targets with remotes. Our club has gone to all remotes now. The same functions that your talking about are used for clay target launchers. We always have a pile of parts around the club from old traps, remotes etc. I am sure you can get some advice from the guys running a local club in your area. Look at Lincoln Traps or Atlas or one of the others .....
Firstly just a massive thanks for the content that you’ve put out. In answer to your question on triggering remotely, I recently built a purely mechanical disc launcher triggered by a foot pedal and 15yards of bike break cable. No charging. Small lightweight and reliable. I’ve put a vid on TH-cam showing the mechanics but not sure how to do a link. If you put in ‘ aerial archery disc trap’ it should come up. Thumbnail similar to my icon. Hope it’s useful.
I didn’t read all the comments... great build. I would try 12v feeder motor with a cheap wild game innovations remote key fob or All seasons feeder remote.
Another great vid jinxy 😁. If you havent solved it yet, try looking into the clay pigeon traps, some of them are remote controlled, maybe the tech in them could help.
Hey, Clay - Use either an Arduino or a Raspberry Pi type of WIFI board to interface with some relays. You ultimately could use a cell phone and an app to talk to the boards on your thrower using WIFI just between the two.
Very simple. Go to a hobby shop and get a remote and one fairly strong servo. Super glue the wire to the servo arm that needs to touch the other two wires. Secure the two other wires on opposing sides of the servo arm. Then you can control the servo to go from side to side touching each wire as long as you need them to touch. You can set the travel of the servo on the remote so it just touches the wires without going past. You can hold the servo in place as long as you are holding the joy stick. So bump the joystick in reverse to touch the wire for a second and reset your machine, then hold the joystick in the forward position until it completes a cycle. I'm sure you will find a better electrical solution so you don't have exposed wires but until then a $50 remote and servo will do.
Even before the wireless remote, a quick easy fix could be a foot pedal switch. With about 20 yards of wire, you can stand away and control the device hands free.
@@Mikedenton541 120v AC system vs 12v DC system. Plus i have my own thrower that i built imgur.com/pgeMdUL. And when you add 20 yards of wire the motor stops cycling at the high amp draw point of the rotation.
botman64 just use thicker wire so there isn’t a resistance to flow. The reason we use AC over DC is efficiency and safety. But 20 yards isn’t a problem for DC. You’re not seeing a voltage drop, you’re seeing amps drop due to increased resistance. It’s all part of ohms law.
Why not use a wiper control switch, since you're using a wiper motor? Then you have the option of throwing a single(mist) every time you hit the button, or at a set(intermittent) pace, if you want to ge a rhythm going. Slow, for time in between shots to renock, or speed it up for a challenge.
A foot dimmer switch.(Like in the cars from the 70s) the way it works you hit it once it resets then hit it againand it will fire. Ypu could add a light to illuminate when you reset it telling you if you hit the switch again it will fire. The switch only sends power to one wire at a time. At the other end hook up a relay to send current direct from the battery to the individual wires on the wiper motor, and use the foot switch to controll the relays. Then you can use very light guage wire back to your unit.
I saw the Instagram post you are referring to here and have thought about this kinetic energy vs momentum argument quite extensively. I wanted to make a video of my own about it because it can be pretty confusing. But I'd like to share some points with you to think about before you make your video. Comparing ballistics penetration to arrow penetration is kind of an apples to oranges comparison. First, starting with potential energy, for a given bow/person there is a very quickly reached finite value of PE avaliable in the beginning. With ballistics, there is much more room for variation of PE by simply adding or removing gunpowder. Second, at the moment of release or explosion essentially all the PE is converted to kinetic energy in both systems. This is important to think about because that means with a bow and arrow we are stuck with a finite KE and with ballistics it is easily variable. Because of this, there is an attempt to conserve as much KE as possible with a bow and arrow and there is less concern about conserving KE with ballistics. So for bow and arrows, there is really only one way to conserve KE and that is to reduce drag both in flight and at impact. Drag is a function of velocity and essentially shape, while KE is a function of mass and velocity^2. A very simple way we reduce drag but conserve KE is to increase our mass of the arrow which drastically reduces the velocity given the same KE. Now, sticking with bows and arrows for the moment, at the moment of impact is where the discussion about momentum and KE come into play. Momentum is a function of mass and velocity, similar to KE but not squared. This is why it is so easily confused, but it really has no place in the discussion. KE is energy, and the engineering term Work is also energy. Work is equal to Force times distance. Distance is actually what we are looking for with a different name, penetration. So if we assume all the KE is transferred to the target during impact (which would mean our arrow stays in the target instead of passing through), we can say the KE at impact is equal to the Work done on the target. So KE equals Force times penetration. The only force worth noting that is acting on the arrow to oppose penetration is again a drag force of the target on the arrow. Which again is a function of velocity and again it shows we want to increase mass to reduce the velocity which will reduce friction on our arrow leading to more penetration. But back to ballistics at the moment of impact, the actual goal is to transfer as much KE as possible to the target, which creates more internal damage to the target. This is why the shape of the bullet changes to a mushroom to increase drag. It is just about the complete opposite of what we are trying to achieve with a bow and arrow, and in my opinion this is almost completely due to the fact that there are different PE constraints at the beginning. If you made it all the way to here, that means I must have been able to stay somewhat coherent throughout my rambling and I'm glad haha. Thanks for reading and if you use some of this information I'd love a shout out to my channel.
The easiest would be too but 20 30 yards of wire and wire them with a 2way switch and switch it back and forth, you could wrap the wires and mark on them yardage and use it as reference
@@clayhayeshunter hey, a few vids ago i poked fun at you about that clicker. Then i made a request for primitive a archery video... you made one of the best videos ive seen on this platform. I think youve done alot for the archery community and were highly impressed by your work. I cant tell you how nice it is to get my archery "fix" every now and again when im on my lunch brrak and you post a vid. Keep it up, youre awesome!
Person could hook it into a turn signal flasher park wire and constant hot wire same terminal and the run wire to one side of flasher granted itll be tryin to kick run wire thru cycle once it gets to park position itll reset motor but that doesn't help on the remote . Could use a motion sensor off a security light used to hook em up for props in a haunted house they're timer controlled could set timer so itll kick off b4 it makes second cycle then wouldnt need to use the park wire/ flasher idea and its save from tryin to hit button or switch seconds b4 ashooting
Not a nice solution, but wire a button with 30m long cable, and when you push the button with your legs, the machine works, when you release your leg it stops :) i think it would be the easiest. Buy a button, which can handle leg press.
There is a website you can go to that you can get grant for $20,000 for completing your invention. Also I live in Albuquerque, New Mexico where Sandia labs are located ,I think for $3,000 dollars they help you develop your idea. I will send you more info if I get it.
I know I said this on instagram, but after watching this Im convinced that arduino is your answer. They will do everything you just mentioned with the most simple version they sell ($20) plus an IR remote and a double AA battery pack. Super super simple coding they have awesome tutorials on their website that would walk you through the coding everything you just talked about. IM me on instargram and I could send you some links.
If you want to get really fancy, get yourself one of these: www.adafruit.com/product/3406 and a couple of relays and then you can control it with your smartphone over bluetooth!
I would try a cheap Wifi relay switch...i am thinking about a "Shelly 1". It can be operated by and switched with 12v DC and has a build in wiFi "Access Point Mode"...so you just need the phone app to toggle the motor via the momentary switch function. "Keep the park wire constant hot" as someone already stated. Use the Shelly1 only to momentary fire the "one turn circuit". A Shelly costs 10$ and you need 10 minutes of cable stripping plus 5 min for the app. Et voila...50m range wifi controlled target launcher...but disconnect the battery after use...I think the Shelly draws ~1W for the Wifi signal. shelly.cloud/downloads/
One addition....if you are in range of your home Wifi...you can use Shellys cloud feature and than voice commands via "Siri" or "Google" to fire the launcher.
AURELIO TECH 3.8 out of 5 stars 47 Reviews AURELIO TECH BDS-0000-00 Auto Disconnect Knife Blade Switch Post Top Terminal Car Battery Cut Off Shut Off Use something like this for simple power switch again about 15 or 20$ Amazon. Just sourced stuff there cause it's easy for you to find and see .
This is the least I can do for all you have done for us, and again be glad to talk you through wiring it up.
Pretty slick. Cant wait to see how it works. All this time I've just been kicking a tennis ball. Sometimes I even hit it.
I would use an arduino. Easy to program and use Bluetooth to your phone. You could activate the pulse voltage with a 10 second delay so you can push the button on your phone and prep to shoot. You can also use a push button remote like a garage door opener or car door opener with the arduino.
Winch remote, one way bearings, and you should look into building a tube type magazine I’m building one my self. Thanks for all your videos, good stuff.
I'm happy to see you promoting Fastenal! That's awesome!
They’ve got EVERYTHING!
I'll have to think on the switch mechanism you need...and I'll have to rewatch the video and pay closer attention to the wiring you explained.
My thought is to keep the park wire connected all the time, then have a remote switch between the brown and "reset" connection. Test this by not disconnecting the park wire from the power wire, and tap both wires to the rest wire.....It should then activate the park feature as you want. If this works, then all you need is a 12v remote control momentary switch...that will supply power to the "reset" wire as long as you apply pressure the switch. It will be a remote and a small receiver circuit that has the switch on the board (usually with terminals to connect all the wires).
My thought would be to have a remote control momentary switch on a foot pedal...tap with your foot, resets the internal park interrupt, and since the park wire is still connected it will fire the motor one revolution. You should look up videos or info from guys that make their own Halloween and Christmas decorations...they use these motors in all sorts of ways like you are trying to do. They might give some ideas from their diy machines for your project here.
Keep the park wire constant hot. Then all you need is a momentary switch to activate the motor. Once you release the switch, it will automatically reset.
I know this is old, but you can add a cam onto your wiper motor shaft that hits a hinge lever momentary switch at a certain point and that can retrigger the brief contact you need and then wire the park feature to a Bluetooth or WiFi relay. You don’t need an arduino for this
Hi. you can find a "Universal Wireless Remote Control Switch DC 12V 10A 433MHz Transmitter with Receiver" for around $4 in some Chinese suppliers.(AliExpress) I'm using it for my homemade target launcher. All you have to do now is connect and press the command button.
Just like a garage opener remote.
Your system is awesome.
Thanks
Have the brown wire briefly engaged by the wiper arm as it comes around(rocker switch?). Red wire can then be hard wired to battery operated light(bulb) in fixture with remote switch. Now it's just a matter of interrupting power temporarily with same red wire on same rocker switch(as brown is engaged, red is disengaged). Works in my head...
Hi Clay, You might go to your local Sporting Clays/Skeet/Trap club. I have shot a lot of clay targets with remotes. Our club has gone to all remotes now. The same functions that your talking about are used for clay target launchers. We always have a pile of parts around the club from old traps, remotes etc. I am sure you can get some advice from the guys running a local club in your area. Look at Lincoln Traps or Atlas or one of the others .....
Firstly just a massive thanks for the content that you’ve put out. In answer to your question on triggering remotely, I recently built a purely mechanical disc launcher triggered by a foot pedal and 15yards of bike break cable. No charging. Small lightweight and reliable. I’ve put a vid on TH-cam showing the mechanics but not sure how to do a link. If you put in ‘ aerial archery disc trap’ it should come up. Thumbnail similar to my icon. Hope it’s useful.
I didn’t read all the comments... great build. I would try 12v feeder motor with a cheap wild game innovations remote key fob or All seasons feeder remote.
Another great vid jinxy 😁. If you havent solved it yet, try looking into the clay pigeon traps, some of them are remote controlled, maybe the tech in them could help.
Any progress on MK2 version of this? Looking forward to seeing your progress with this.
Nice Idea.💡💥🎯🎯Great Mr.!! Thanks for Sharing video👍
Hey, Clay - Use either an Arduino or a Raspberry Pi type of WIFI board to interface with some relays. You ultimately could use a cell phone and an app to talk to the boards on your thrower using WIFI just between the two.
Cool, thanks.
Very simple. Go to a hobby shop and get a remote and one fairly strong servo. Super glue the wire to the servo arm that needs to touch the other two wires. Secure the two other wires on opposing sides of the servo arm. Then you can control the servo to go from side to side touching each wire as long as you need them to touch. You can set the travel of the servo on the remote so it just touches the wires without going past. You can hold the servo in place as long as you are holding the joy stick. So bump the joystick in reverse to touch the wire for a second and reset your machine, then hold the joystick in the forward position until it completes a cycle. I'm sure you will find a better electrical solution so you don't have exposed wires but until then a $50 remote and servo will do.
Even before the wireless remote, a quick easy fix could be a foot pedal switch. With about 20 yards of wire, you can stand away and control the device hands free.
voltage drop is a thing.
botman64 not 20 yards and through a switch. Your house wouldn’t work if that was true.
@@Mikedenton541 120v AC system vs 12v DC system. Plus i have my own thrower that i built imgur.com/pgeMdUL. And when you add 20 yards of wire the motor stops cycling at the high amp draw point of the rotation.
botman64 just use thicker wire so there isn’t a resistance to flow. The reason we use AC over DC is efficiency and safety. But 20 yards isn’t a problem for DC. You’re not seeing a voltage drop, you’re seeing amps drop due to increased resistance. It’s all part of ohms law.
Clay would be better off building the final version with 120V AC.
Why not use a wiper control switch, since you're using a wiper motor? Then you have the option of throwing a single(mist) every time you hit the button, or at a set(intermittent) pace, if you want to ge a rhythm going. Slow, for time in between shots to renock, or speed it up for a challenge.
Any update on this launcher Clay? Simple and effective
depending on if you building to retail or for self simple car alarm would work
A foot dimmer switch.(Like in the cars from the 70s) the way it works you hit it once it resets then hit it againand it will fire. Ypu could add a light to illuminate when you reset it telling you if you hit the switch again it will fire.
The switch only sends power to one wire at a time. At the other end hook up a relay to send current direct from the battery to the individual wires on the wiper motor, and use the foot switch to controll the relays. Then you can use very light guage wire back to your unit.
I saw the Instagram post you are referring to here and have thought about this kinetic energy vs momentum argument quite extensively. I wanted to make a video of my own about it because it can be pretty confusing. But I'd like to share some points with you to think about before you make your video.
Comparing ballistics penetration to arrow penetration is kind of an apples to oranges comparison.
First, starting with potential energy, for a given bow/person there is a very quickly reached finite value of PE avaliable in the beginning. With ballistics, there is much more room for variation of PE by simply adding or removing gunpowder.
Second, at the moment of release or explosion essentially all the PE is converted to kinetic energy in both systems. This is important to think about because that means with a bow and arrow we are stuck with a finite KE and with ballistics it is easily variable. Because of this, there is an attempt to conserve as much KE as possible with a bow and arrow and there is less concern about conserving KE with ballistics.
So for bow and arrows, there is really only one way to conserve KE and that is to reduce drag both in flight and at impact. Drag is a function of velocity and essentially shape, while KE is a function of mass and velocity^2. A very simple way we reduce drag but conserve KE is to increase our mass of the arrow which drastically reduces the velocity given the same KE.
Now, sticking with bows and arrows for the moment, at the moment of impact is where the discussion about momentum and KE come into play. Momentum is a function of mass and velocity, similar to KE but not squared. This is why it is so easily confused, but it really has no place in the discussion. KE is energy, and the engineering term Work is also energy. Work is equal to Force times distance. Distance is actually what we are looking for with a different name, penetration. So if we assume all the KE is transferred to the target during impact (which would mean our arrow stays in the target instead of passing through), we can say the KE at impact is equal to the Work done on the target. So KE equals Force times penetration. The only force worth noting that is acting on the arrow to oppose penetration is again a drag force of the target on the arrow. Which again is a function of velocity and again it shows we want to increase mass to reduce the velocity which will reduce friction on our arrow leading to more penetration.
But back to ballistics at the moment of impact, the actual goal is to transfer as much KE as possible to the target, which creates more internal damage to the target. This is why the shape of the bullet changes to a mushroom to increase drag. It is just about the complete opposite of what we are trying to achieve with a bow and arrow, and in my opinion this is almost completely due to the fact that there are different PE constraints at the beginning.
If you made it all the way to here, that means I must have been able to stay somewhat coherent throughout my rambling and I'm glad haha. Thanks for reading and if you use some of this information I'd love a shout out to my channel.
Awesome. Nuff said
Hi Clay, love your video's! Have you made a more professional prototype and solied the motor problem?
Not yet. ADHD kicked in😂
@@clayhayeshunter 😂🤣🤣 good luck my friend!
Very nice, MacGyver.
You can hire me to throw 😁
The easiest would be too but 20 30 yards of wire and wire them with a 2way switch and switch it back and forth, you could wrap the wires and mark on them yardage and use it as reference
Did you ever get the remote sorted? I can send you a link to what I used for mine
What about a simple foot pedal type switch with a 20-30 ft extension chord? There may even be a sewing machine pedal with 2 pedals or something.
Could use the wiper delay switch.
All you need is a key fob the rc circuit with a relay that two buttons. I do that tpye of electrical work.
Damn u been killin it with your content lately.
Thanks Mike
@@clayhayeshunter hey, a few vids ago i poked fun at you about that clicker. Then i made a request for primitive a archery video... you made one of the best videos ive seen on this platform. I think youve done alot for the archery community and were highly impressed by your work. I cant tell you how nice it is to get my archery "fix" every now and again when im on my lunch brrak and you post a vid.
Keep it up, youre awesome!
Great video
I'd also like to know what the targets are. Foam obviously, but what's the source?
Bird launcher remote and reciever? DT Training Systems
Person could hook it into a turn signal flasher park wire and constant hot wire same terminal and the run wire to one side of flasher granted itll be tryin to kick run wire thru cycle once it gets to park position itll reset motor but that doesn't help on the remote . Could use a motion sensor off a security light used to hook em up for props in a haunted house they're timer controlled could set timer so itll kick off b4 it makes second cycle then wouldnt need to use the park wire/ flasher idea and its save from tryin to hit button or switch seconds b4 ashooting
I'd try the motion light after reading my own comment a few times lol could rob one out of a game camera but that's to technical for me
You should build them and undercut the market.
Not a nice solution, but wire a button with 30m long cable, and when you push the button with your legs, the machine works, when you release your leg it stops :) i think it would be the easiest. Buy a button, which can handle leg press.
Garage door opener
Jefari H. The garage door motor works off of 110 though, how would I power it? Thanks
12 volt momentary blue tooth relay Amazon 10 amp
There is a website you can go to that you can get grant for $20,000 for completing your invention. Also I live in Albuquerque, New Mexico where Sandia labs are located ,I think for $3,000 dollars they help you develop your idea. I will send you more info if I get it.
I know I said this on instagram, but after watching this Im convinced that arduino is your answer. They will do everything you just mentioned with the most simple version they sell ($20) plus an IR remote and a double AA battery pack. Super super simple coding they have awesome tutorials on their website that would walk you through the coding everything you just talked about. IM me on instargram and I could send you some links.
Thanks, I’ll look into it.
@@clayhayeshunter IR remotes don't work well in sunlight. A radio switch could work though.
I'll post the stuff you need to buy and can talk you through how to wire it if you want. Let me know and I'll email you my number. It is really easy
I can tell you how to wire it
Check out my playlist: I got the idea from Henry Nijhof. I have since then replaced the ATV winch with a wiper motor.
If you want to get really fancy, get yourself one of these: www.adafruit.com/product/3406 and a couple of relays and then you can control it with your smartphone over bluetooth!
I would try a cheap Wifi relay switch...i am thinking about a "Shelly 1". It can be operated by and switched with 12v DC and has a build in wiFi "Access Point Mode"...so you just need the phone app to toggle the motor via the momentary switch function. "Keep the park wire constant hot" as someone already stated. Use the Shelly1 only to momentary fire the "one turn circuit". A Shelly costs 10$ and you need 10 minutes of cable stripping plus 5 min for the app. Et voila...50m range wifi controlled target launcher...but disconnect the battery after use...I think the Shelly draws ~1W for the Wifi signal. shelly.cloud/downloads/
One addition....if you are in range of your home Wifi...you can use Shellys cloud feature and than voice commands via "Siri" or "Google" to fire the launcher.
AURELIO TECH
3.8 out of 5 stars 47 Reviews
AURELIO TECH BDS-0000-00 Auto Disconnect Knife Blade Switch Post Top Terminal Car Battery Cut Off Shut Off
Use something like this for simple power switch again about 15 or 20$ Amazon. Just sourced stuff there cause it's easy for you to find and see .