Thank you a lot ! I am not a professional trainer, but I do work a lot with my dog, and we reached some experience together also some examinations and we are now in one important team, search and rescue dog team, and this is great. And this imply of course a lot of work. Which is great too. But believe me, there where moments when your video's contributed a lot in our parcours ☺🤗. So...thank you again!!!
Thanks for answering my question on reacting dogs! I think my girl just finds reacting more valuable than giving in to the correction. I think we will refresh the basics and get to work on desensitization and finding the right level of correction. Appreciate the feedback!
Hey Nate, great upload as usual. You again answered some questions I was going to ask but now don't have to. Well, until I have more questions. Keep being awesome and have a great week!
Hi Nate..I have learnt so much from you on my girls training and appreciate you so much..I'm on a lot of dog sites and highly recommend you to anybody that's having a problem.👍 My Husky girl is 15 months old..all trained by your videos..We are always having a re-do with one thing..jumping up on new people ..everything else she will do..even recall to a reasonable ask.(i.e. with no treats or screaming involved)lol.....so once again thank you..J
I've been using a martingale collar, but it is one that is all collar material vs. the martingales with the chain section. I believe I need a higher correction collar, but really don't want to go to the prong collar if not necessary. Would a martingale with the chain section work better than the martingale with collar material throughout?
I talk about this in detail in my dog training manual: amzn.to/2P2tyQH Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior. If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act. In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear. Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar or remote training collar to stop the behavior. I hope this helps!
Hi Nate. I was hoping you could tell me how to teach a dog a command that has multiple parts to it. Something like how to clean up there toys with clean up or BANG and they limp then crawl then play dead. I know they'll need to learn other things such as the individual skill before combining them but after that I'm lost on how to train them. Thanks in advance
Thanks! Yes, that could be something in a future video. However, the process is the same as any other command. Teach the behavior and then put it on command. You can also chain multiple commands together by always doing one right after the other in the same order. The dog will eventually learn the order and go through all the following commands when given the first command. For example; Someone tells their dog to sit, and the dog sits, lays down, then rolls over. The reason a dog would do that is from pattern training. The owner always does sit, then down, then roll over. Eventually, the dogs do all three in order. :)
Hi Nate and thanks for a very informative video as always. I have a 14 weeks old puppy and a 1y 9m old dog. The older one only barkas when he hears (or thinks he hears) someone outside our house. The little one barks all the time when he seeks attention, usually wanting to play. He barks to us as well as to the older dog. The biggest problem is that our older dog engageses almost every time. We've tried not giving any attention, distracting and correcting him, but none of them seems to work. What is the right approach? You wouldn't have a video on this? Watched already "What causes a dog to repeat a behaviors? Episode 7"
Here's a section from my dog training manual that may be helpful. Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this: • One: Preventing the dog from practicing the undesired behavior. • Two: Using a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So, in the end, the 58 motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior. If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept: Imagine every dog has a bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act. In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear. You can get a copy of my manual here: amzn.to/2P2tyQH
Hi Nate, thanks for another great video! I needed the reminder to go back to the basics of training markers. We've watched a lot of your videos, and we're grateful for the great content. We have a question on some conflicting information: resource guarding vs. food deprivation to increase the kibble's value. We are new to having a pet, and our 15 week old GSD seems to resource guard when we're implementing food deprivation like you mentioned for training. We're concerned that the resource guarding will become a long term problem, and if it's just short term, we're concerned our kids might get bit. Help. What would you advice.
Thanks! I'd have to know more information to give you proper guidance. How is the dog resource guarding if you have the food and are making him work for it? In order to resource guard, the dog would need to be in possession of the food.
Hi Nate, thanks for the speedy reply. Sorry I was not as prompt. I'll try not to write a whole novel in the realm of TH-cam comments, and hopefully describe enough of the situation to curate a more philosophical question. In our new adventure learning how to raise a dog, we've watched quite a few videos, (a lot of them are yours), before we even got our dog. We started feeding in a bowl, then after about a week or two we implemented feeding our dog from our hands. There was an incident and our veterinarian prescribed canned wet food, and we still fed her by hand. But life happens and there were a few nights where we were busy with kids or something and decided to feed her in a bowl thinking a few nights wouldn't be a problem. To keep it short, there were a few incidents where one of our kids got close enough that she growled while eating. After the prescribed wet food, it was a bit of a challenge getting her back to kibbles. Being parents and now new parents to a fur baby, we wondered how much of a long term effect there would be for the choices we make while she's a puppy. We have a relative who has had dogs at different times and one of them got a taste of wet food, and according to their stories, they couldn't get their dog back to dry food the rest of their life. PS: I just found out that you were on tour just a couple of weeks back in the Midwest. I wish I would have known sooner. Have a wonderful day!
Hi Nate, I have a 2yo border collie. Is great at heel around home. Loves to sniff everything when at a park etc. What would you suggest for this? Thanks heaps.
When I'm doing the initial training with a dog, and I'm still on continual reinforcement. Meaning, I'm rewarding every correct behavior, then I like to use the dog's kibble. I prefer to use Stella & Chewy's freeze-dried coated kibble. Once the dog no longer needs to be rewarded for every correct behavior, I switch them to raw and use freeze-dried food for the dog's training treats. I hope this helps! )
I have a question and maybe you can discuss it in one of your videos. I grew up on a farm and learn how to train my own dogs and one of the important things that we have to train them is the word “get”. Basically that command is to tell them to get out of the way because there’s a horse or a cow or a tractor coming towards them and we need them out of the way. Do you have anything on that subject? I want to reshape some of my training methods and try using some of your methods on them.
i have an extremely gentle doberman. (long story short: I've recently been in a situation where i've been away from home for extended periods, away from my pups, and there have been "therapy dogs" that come around once a week and i've found a huge amount of comfort in this). I would like to get my dog (1y/o intact male doberman who is incredibly gentle and smart as can be) therapy dog certified (is that a thing?) to kinda return the favor, where i could take him to a local hospital or whatever to lift the spirits of patients or family of patients. what's involved in this? do i need to get in touch with a local kennel club? or just a pro trainer?
Yes, you can make your dog a therapy dog. The first step is the Canine Good Citizen Test, then the therapy dog test. Most trainers offer CGC training and testing, but you have to find a trainer that offers therapy dog testing. A google search should help you find someone local to you. Thanks!
ahhh....I learned something here that I missed. Terminal vs continuation marker. My dog thinks all markers are release markers. Another missed step in training.
Hi Please Reply My GSD is 50 days He is very very enthusiastic for food He keeps barking untill i make food and add Multivitamin and all Medicines in it and I get irritated as he keeps barking and Neighbours too complaints often about same. I cant even go in kitchen to drink water at my time as his food is prepared in kitchen and he keeps barking when i go towards kitchen.. Kindly help or send Link for how to come over it Thnx in advance
Here's a section from my dog training manual that may be helpful. Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this: • One: Preventing the dog from practicing the undesired behavior. • Two: Using a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So, in the end, the 58 motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior. If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept: Imagine every dog has a bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act. In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear. You can get a copy of my manual here: amzn.to/2P2tyQH
Late last night the dogs were making quite a commotion. I went to see. They were attacking an animal; I thought it was a dog. I yelled several times loudly. The animal escaped out of the yard over the fence. I looked and there were 2 raccoons about 20-25 pounds. Only one got in the fenced yard. The dogs are fine, glad they had their vaccinations. They were a little agitated for over an hour. They have killed a skunk that got in the yard.
@@NateSchoemer thanks Nate, I'm a fan of play biting and have the hands to prove it. Is it fair to expect her to play bite with me not touch the kids? Or is this mixed messaging?
Not sure how to explain. My neighbor gave me a box of 'Milk Bones', unopened, he had after his dog died. I wouldn't recommend this product. It made my dogs poop very soft. I had been giving them a no name brand previously and their poop was okay.
Lol, your commercial for pet insurance was interrupted by a TH-cam sponsored commercial. Found it funny.
Lol
Awesome to see Harley all grown up and still cute as ever
Yeah, she's an awesome pup!
So much good information!
Thank you, Harry! :)
Hi I watch all your videos you are doing a good job
Awesome! Thank you! :)
Thank you a lot ! I am not a professional trainer, but I do work a lot with my dog, and we reached some experience together also some examinations and we are now in one important team, search and rescue dog team, and this is great. And this imply of course a lot of work. Which is great too. But believe me, there where moments when your video's contributed a lot in our parcours ☺🤗. So...thank you again!!!
That's awesome! Thank you, I so happy the videos are helpful. :)
Thanks for answering my question on reacting dogs! I think my girl just finds reacting more valuable than giving in to the correction. I think we will refresh the basics and get to work on desensitization and finding the right level of correction. Appreciate the feedback!
My pleasure. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel. :)
Thank you as always great info!
Thank you, G K! :)
Hey Nate, great upload as usual. You again answered some questions I was going to ask but now don't have to. Well, until I have more questions. Keep being awesome and have a great week!
Thank you, Drake!
Hi Nate..I have learnt so much from you on my girls training and appreciate you so much..I'm on a lot of dog sites and highly recommend you to anybody that's having a problem.👍
My Husky girl is 15 months old..all trained by your videos..We are always having a re-do with one thing..jumping up on new people ..everything else she will do..even recall to a reasonable ask.(i.e. with no treats or screaming involved)lol.....so once again thank you..J
My pleasure. Thanks for always watching and supporting! :)
How long do you train your puppies and what is the sequence? For example from their crate to potty, to train then play. Back to the create?
th-cam.com/video/OvdKDE326gs/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
I've been using a martingale collar, but it is one that is all collar material vs. the martingales with the chain section. I believe I need a higher correction collar, but really don't want to go to the prong collar if not necessary. Would a martingale with the chain section work better than the martingale with collar material throughout?
I talk about this in detail in my dog training manual: amzn.to/2P2tyQH
Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act.
In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear.
Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar or remote training collar to stop the behavior.
I hope this helps!
Hi Nate. I was hoping you could tell me how to teach a dog a command that has multiple parts to it. Something like how to clean up there toys with clean up or BANG and they limp then crawl then play dead. I know they'll need to learn other things such as the individual skill before combining them but after that I'm lost on how to train them. Thanks in advance
Maybe you could make a video on it even.
Thanks! Yes, that could be something in a future video. However, the process is the same as any other command. Teach the behavior and then put it on command. You can also chain multiple commands together by always doing one right after the other in the same order. The dog will eventually learn the order and go through all the following commands when given the first command. For example; Someone tells their dog to sit, and the dog sits, lays down, then rolls over. The reason a dog would do that is from pattern training. The owner always does sit, then down, then roll over. Eventually, the dogs do all three in order. :)
Hi Nate and thanks for a very informative video as always.
I have a 14 weeks old puppy and a 1y 9m old dog. The older one only barkas when he hears (or thinks he hears) someone outside our house. The little one barks all the time when he seeks attention, usually wanting to play. He barks to us as well as to the older dog. The biggest problem is that our older dog engageses almost every time. We've tried not giving any attention, distracting and correcting him, but none of them seems to work. What is the right approach?
You wouldn't have a video on this? Watched already "What causes a dog to repeat a behaviors? Episode 7"
Here's a section from my dog training manual that may be helpful.
Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this:
• One: Preventing the dog from practicing the undesired behavior.
• Two: Using a correction to stop the behavior.
A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So, in the end, the 58 motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept: Imagine every dog has a bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether.
This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act.
In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear.
You can get a copy of my manual here: amzn.to/2P2tyQH
Hi Nate, thanks for another great video! I needed the reminder to go back to the basics of training markers. We've watched a lot of your videos, and we're grateful for the great content. We have a question on some conflicting information: resource guarding vs. food deprivation to increase the kibble's value. We are new to having a pet, and our 15 week old GSD seems to resource guard when we're implementing food deprivation like you mentioned for training. We're concerned that the resource guarding will become a long term problem, and if it's just short term, we're concerned our kids might get bit. Help. What would you advice.
Thanks! I'd have to know more information to give you proper guidance. How is the dog resource guarding if you have the food and are making him work for it? In order to resource guard, the dog would need to be in possession of the food.
Hi Nate, thanks for the speedy reply. Sorry I was not as prompt. I'll try not to write a whole novel in the realm of TH-cam comments, and hopefully describe enough of the situation to curate a more philosophical question. In our new adventure learning how to raise a dog, we've watched quite a few videos, (a lot of them are yours), before we even got our dog. We started feeding in a bowl, then after about a week or two we implemented feeding our dog from our hands. There was an incident and our veterinarian prescribed canned wet food, and we still fed her by hand. But life happens and there were a few nights where we were busy with kids or something and decided to feed her in a bowl thinking a few nights wouldn't be a problem. To keep it short, there were a few incidents where one of our kids got close enough that she growled while eating. After the prescribed wet food, it was a bit of a challenge getting her back to kibbles. Being parents and now new parents to a fur baby, we wondered how much of a long term effect there would be for the choices we make while she's a puppy. We have a relative who has had dogs at different times and one of them got a taste of wet food, and according to their stories, they couldn't get their dog back to dry food the rest of their life.
PS: I just found out that you were on tour just a couple of weeks back in the Midwest. I wish I would have known sooner. Have a wonderful day!
Hi Nate,
I have a 2yo border collie. Is great at heel around home. Loves to sniff everything when at a park etc.
What would you suggest for this?
Thanks heaps.
Leash pressure to prevent your dog from practicing this behavior while training.
Hi nate, I also have a malinois pup and she's 2 months old. Is kibble a good treat for her to work for it or I need to buy some good treats?
When I'm doing the initial training with a dog, and I'm still on continual reinforcement. Meaning, I'm rewarding every correct behavior, then I like to use the dog's kibble. I prefer to use Stella & Chewy's freeze-dried coated kibble. Once the dog no longer needs to be rewarded for every correct behavior, I switch them to raw and use freeze-dried food for the dog's training treats. I hope this helps! )
@@NateSchoemer thank you for the help nate, I'm a massive fan of your content. Hope I can train my mali like yours. still stalking your videos. Lol
I have a question and maybe you can discuss it in one of your videos. I grew up on a farm and learn how to train my own dogs and one of the important things that we have to train them is the word “get”. Basically that command is to tell them to get out of the way because there’s a horse or a cow or a tractor coming towards them and we need them out of the way. Do you have anything on that subject? I want to reshape some of my training methods and try using some of your methods on them.
No, I don't have a video specifically on that command. However, it's something I can try to make in a future video. Cheers! :)
@@NateSchoemer yes please do
i have an extremely gentle doberman. (long story short: I've recently been in a situation where i've been away from home for extended periods, away from my pups, and there have been "therapy dogs" that come around once a week and i've found a huge amount of comfort in this).
I would like to get my dog (1y/o intact male doberman who is incredibly gentle and smart as can be) therapy dog certified (is that a thing?) to kinda return the favor, where i could take him to a local hospital or whatever to lift the spirits of patients or family of patients.
what's involved in this? do i need to get in touch with a local kennel club? or just a pro trainer?
Yes, you can make your dog a therapy dog. The first step is the Canine Good Citizen Test, then the therapy dog test. Most trainers offer CGC training and testing, but you have to find a trainer that offers therapy dog testing. A google search should help you find someone local to you. Thanks!
ahhh....I learned something here that I missed. Terminal vs continuation marker. My dog thinks all markers are release markers. Another missed step in training.
Lol! I'm glad the video was helpful. :)
Hi
Please Reply
My GSD is 50 days
He is very very enthusiastic for food
He keeps barking untill i make food and add Multivitamin and all Medicines in it and I get irritated as he keeps barking and Neighbours too complaints often about same.
I cant even go in kitchen to drink water at my time as his food is prepared in kitchen and he keeps barking when i go towards kitchen..
Kindly help or send Link for how to come over it
Thnx in advance
Hie Sir
Kindly Suggest
Here's a section from my dog training manual that may be helpful.
Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this:
• One: Preventing the dog from practicing the undesired behavior.
• Two: Using a correction to stop the behavior.
A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So, in the end, the 58 motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept: Imagine every dog has a bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether.
This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act.
In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear.
You can get a copy of my manual here: amzn.to/2P2tyQH
No don't jump. Watch the whole video. Its a short video. All of Nates videos are awesome and can always learn from watching his videos.
Thank you, B K! I always appreciate your support! :)
Late last night the dogs were making quite a commotion. I went to see. They were attacking an animal; I thought it was a dog. I yelled several times loudly. The animal escaped out of the yard over the fence. I looked and there were 2 raccoons about 20-25 pounds. Only one got in the fenced yard. The dogs are fine, glad they had their vaccinations. They were a little agitated for over an hour. They have killed a skunk that got in the yard.
Wow! I'm glad the pups are okay. :)
How to stop my GSD biting my kids and putting holes in their clothes! It's only play but getting pricey ha ha (seriously, help)
th-cam.com/video/IAfafjM6XyM/w-d-xo.html :)
@@NateSchoemer thanks Nate, I'm a fan of play biting and have the hands to prove it. Is it fair to expect her to play bite with me not touch the kids? Or is this mixed messaging?
Not sure how to explain. My neighbor gave me a box of 'Milk Bones', unopened, he had after his dog died. I wouldn't recommend this product. It made my dogs poop very soft. I had been giving them a no name brand previously and their poop was okay.
Yeah, I've never been a fan of giving dogs milk bones. They are simply not the healthiest options. Lol!