Thank you for the great information Jon. I actually like your videos more than some other content providers, because of the theory you provide. The theory help me create an anchor for the chipping/rusting effect you suggest. Good job.
I appreciate that John - thank you! I've always felt that many times the "why and when" is the real key to any technique... the "how" is usually the the easy part in the bigger scheme of things. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for this tutorial, Jon. I have just started experimenting with rust techniques. With your explanation of rust, what it is and how it forms with layers and colors really helped put in perspective of how I can add a more realistic approach to rust on any model. Thanks again!
Great video Jon. The true magic comes from muti layers of tonal variety as you said. But rust must always be dead flat. Really enjoy your videos. Take care.
Great video, John! Always something new to see. You're spot-on about the colors, too. I use pastel chalks in weathering, and for rusted areas, it's the color choice that really provides that look. Even using the steel wool method to make rust powder, I wind up with different colors, from reddish and brownish orange through reddish brown and even to a brownish-black. Every variation has a use.
Hello Jon, nice video as always. I'm missing only one product in the list: real rust. Just let some steel wool rust and you get super pigments that can be used just like "normal" pigments. Quickly made, can be stored for a long time and great effects. Give it a try if you haven't already.
Thanks! I have used it, and it works nicely. I did have some concerns about the health aspect of it though, so out of an abundance of caution I decided not to suggest it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I use real rust, too. I'm Dutchy, though-I don't waste perfectly good steel wool. I make mine from used kitchen steel wool scouring pads, when the soap is gone and the pad starts to rust. ;) I got the idea years ago at our club, when one of the guys brought in a coffee can full of rust. He worked in a machine shop, and had cleaned out a milling machine, and brought the powder to a meeting.
Good overview! I find myself wondering if in fact the AK pencils are the same basic thing as something like a Derwent Inktense water soluble drawing pencil..
Probably, or very similar. I don't buy AK or Mig products, myself, because I can make a lot of the things myself, with other things I have on my bench.
I'm not sure. A few years ago I tested some Prismacolor pencils against the AK stuff, and they behaved a bit different. I've not used the products you mentioned, so I'm not sure how they would compare. It would certainly be worth a test! Thanks for watching and commenting!
thank you very much for the video and also the broad spectrum of products because i'm looking into adding little rust effects on like a battle damaged vehicle because my colour scheme is very bright and like vibrant and i want to like tone it down and have some silvers little bit of rust
Some great techniques here. It's too bad that you can't get Adam Wilder products anymore. I am interested in the Life Color paints, do you have a good source? Thanks Jon.
Thanks so much! I ordered my Life Color paint through the local hobby shop. But check Ebay too... I've seen it there. Thanks for watching and commenting!
This is great, as usual. Thanks! Off topic, but I’ve been meaning to ask you; Isn’t there a CA glue that works well with clear plastic? I need to repair an off-brand clear Gundam/action figure stand. 👊🏾
Thanks! I rarely use CA for clear parts. What causes the fogging is the gasses released when CA cures. In the few cases I have used it, I dipped the clear part in Future/Pledge, and let that thoroughly cure. That seemed to protect against the fogging. However, if possible - test that theory, because not all clear parts are exactly alike. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great Work. At 11:44 you said you want no texture. But should it not be the opposite? Since rust has has a greater volume than the metal, texture would be the natural effect.
Seriously though - thanks for your kind words. And you are correct - but it depends on the scale effect you are going for. At 1:1 scale, rust may have a very visible texture. Viewed from 50 ft away, it just may look like color variation. So it's based on the effect you want to acheive.
It's funny as well because the ochre colours or rust colours all use iron based pigments. So you're basically using actual rust to paint imitation rust 😂
Thank you for the great information Jon. I actually like your videos more than some other content providers, because of the theory you provide. The theory help me create an anchor for the chipping/rusting effect you suggest. Good job.
I appreciate that John - thank you! I've always felt that many times the "why and when" is the real key to any technique... the "how" is usually the the easy part in the bigger scheme of things.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for this tutorial, Jon. I have just started experimenting with rust techniques.
With your explanation of rust, what it is and how it forms with layers and colors really helped put in perspective of how I can add a more realistic approach to rust on any model.
Thanks again!
I'm glad you found it helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
I think it's a very good and comprehensive video on rust brother! thanks for the information!
Glad you liked it! Thanks so much brother! And thanks for watching and commenting. Blessings to you and your family!
@@JonBius blessings to you and your family brother!
Great video Jon. The true magic comes from muti layers of tonal variety as you said. But rust must always be dead flat. Really enjoy your videos. Take care.
Thank you for your kind words, and thanks so much for watching and commenting!
As always... Thank you! 🙏
You are so welcome - thank you for watching and commenting!
Thanks again for sharing Jon. Picked up a few pointers the second time around! Happy days and model on! 😎🇨🇦
Great to hear! Thanks Peter - have a wonderful weekend!
You too Jon.
Another quality video. Many thanks
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Love this video! Perfect timing too! About to do some major rust work on a big set of terrain for our Star Wars d20 campaign!
Sounds great! I'm glad it will be useful. Have fun with it!
And thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video, John! Always something new to see. You're spot-on about the colors, too. I use pastel chalks in weathering, and for rusted areas, it's the color choice that really provides that look.
Even using the steel wool method to make rust powder, I wind up with different colors, from reddish and brownish orange through reddish brown and even to a brownish-black. Every variation has a use.
Thanks Brad!
Thanks for another great video I always enjoy them.
Thanks so much! I am glad you enjoyed it. And thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video, as always
I appreciate that - thanks for watching and commenting!
Hello Jon, nice video as always. I'm missing only one product in the list: real rust. Just let some steel wool rust and you get super pigments that can be used just like "normal" pigments. Quickly made, can be stored for a long time and great effects. Give it a try if you haven't already.
Thanks! I have used it, and it works nicely. I did have some concerns about the health aspect of it though, so out of an abundance of caution I decided not to suggest it.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I use real rust, too. I'm Dutchy, though-I don't waste perfectly good steel wool. I make mine from used kitchen steel wool scouring pads, when the soap is gone and the pad starts to rust. ;)
I got the idea years ago at our club, when one of the guys brought in a coffee can full of rust. He worked in a machine shop, and had cleaned out a milling machine, and brought the powder to a meeting.
Thank you very much for such a great tutorial.
You're very welcome! Thank you for watching and commenting!
Good overview! I find myself wondering if in fact the AK pencils are the same basic thing as something like a Derwent Inktense water soluble drawing pencil..
Probably, or very similar. I don't buy AK or Mig products, myself, because I can make a lot of the things myself, with other things I have on my bench.
I'm not sure. A few years ago I tested some Prismacolor pencils against the AK stuff, and they behaved a bit different. I've not used the products you mentioned, so I'm not sure how they would compare. It would certainly be worth a test!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
thank you very much for the video and also the broad spectrum of products because i'm looking into adding little rust effects on like a battle damaged vehicle because my colour scheme is very bright and like vibrant and i want to like tone it down and have some silvers little bit of rust
Glad it was helpful! Thank you so much for watching and commenting. Happy day to you!
Some great techniques here. It's too bad that you can't get Adam Wilder products anymore. I am interested in the Life Color paints, do you have a good source? Thanks Jon.
Thanks so much! I ordered my Life Color paint through the local hobby shop. But check Ebay too... I've seen it there.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
This is great, as usual. Thanks!
Off topic, but I’ve been meaning to ask you; Isn’t there a CA glue that works well with clear plastic? I need to repair an off-brand clear Gundam/action figure stand.
👊🏾
Thanks!
I rarely use CA for clear parts. What causes the fogging is the gasses released when CA cures. In the few cases I have used it, I dipped the clear part in Future/Pledge, and let that thoroughly cure. That seemed to protect against the fogging. However, if possible - test that theory, because not all clear parts are exactly alike.
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius thanks, Jon!
Very usefull vidéo. Awesome
Thanks so much! I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great Work. At 11:44 you said you want no texture. But should it not be the opposite? Since rust has has a greater volume than the metal, texture would be the natural effect.
See 19:48.
Thanks for watching (mostly) and commenting! 🤣🤣🤣
Seriously though - thanks for your kind words. And you are correct - but it depends on the scale effect you are going for. At 1:1 scale, rust may have a very visible texture. Viewed from 50 ft away, it just may look like color variation. So it's based on the effect you want to acheive.
@@JonBiusI watched the whole thing. At the beginning you want no textures and in the end you created them. 🙂 That confused me a bit.
@@JonBius Well, that's an argument 🙂On the other hand you would see some kind of texture even before the rust breaks through.
@@rti67 I confuse myself sometimes! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
It's funny as well because the ochre colours or rust colours all use iron based pigments. So you're basically using actual rust to paint imitation rust 😂
Cool! Thanks for watching and commenting!