I'm so proud of you dude you have no idea welcome to the family of guys that have actually achieved this level.. it's so much work so much work.. like I said when we were talking on the phone and I showed you the pictures of my units it's so much easier another way but I'm proud of you for working through this and making it work.
BBI your a fantastic educator, thank you for sharing your knowlege with someone who also shares your bloodlines (MudDuck Sharky) and also is open about sharing the right way to work this awesome hobby of RF Communications.😏👍🇺🇸🍻
It would probably be cheaper to use 18650 batteries for the 65V supply, then four 1800W DC-DC converters would be sufficient, or just as many DC-DC converters that a maximum of 100 amps are drawn at 12V. With 20% duty cycle operation this is enough to charge the 18650 cells while receiving. You don't need any additional alternators, the board system would be loaded with a maximum of 1.2KW and the voltage would not drop drastically. If you use a sealed heat sink housing, you can also install the DC-DC converter in the engine compartment, which then also takes up much less space in the trunk and the voltage losses are lower.
Good work. Wish I'd found this earlier. I have been doing similar reverse engineering work on the control circuit. But only on a single unit for a 200W 50V LDMOS AMP. The standard boards have a N channel MOSFET switch on the DC input as low voltage disable protection on the OV rail. I replaced that with a P channel in the postive rail and use that to switch with my PTT line for on demand. The RF noise in VHF (50, 70, 144 MHz) is impossible to get rid of, the only way to be able to recieve weak signals is to to use the on demand approach. All works great now.
Good job! I bought a few of those as well - I just went to switching regular batteries in the mobile instead. Charge when not transmitting, switched in series when transmitting.
im actualy planning on modifying a spare alternator for 50V and putting it under the hud for amp usage. its going to sit next to te omg alternator and im thinking of connecting the diode ground to the omg car alternator 14V so the modified alternator will make only 36V. just changing the diodes to high voltage values and making a simple op amp transistor voltage control for the field, the alternator should be able to give higher voltage by just spinning it faster, so maybe a smaller poly is needed and of course big capacitors
you made the best of china boost converters. with the voltage sag you talk about this can be help along by adding a Maxell super cap across the input terminals. bring battery big cable to the cap and big cable 2 to your power supply . keeping cap close to supply as possible. will make a big improvement on SSB and AM with low dead key. you hade the right idea putting some caps inside. 73's
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I'm so proud of you dude you have no idea welcome to the family of guys that have actually achieved this level.. it's so much work so much work.. like I said when we were talking on the phone and I showed you the pictures of my units it's so much easier another way but I'm proud of you for working through this and making it work.
BBI your a fantastic educator, thank you for sharing your knowlege with someone who also shares your bloodlines (MudDuck Sharky) and also is open about sharing the right way to work this awesome hobby of RF Communications.😏👍🇺🇸🍻
It would probably be cheaper to use 18650 batteries for the 65V supply, then four 1800W DC-DC converters would be sufficient, or just as many DC-DC converters that a maximum of 100 amps are drawn at 12V. With 20% duty cycle operation this is enough to charge the 18650 cells while receiving.
You don't need any additional alternators, the board system would be loaded with a maximum of 1.2KW and the voltage would not drop drastically.
If you use a sealed heat sink housing, you can also install the DC-DC converter in the engine compartment, which then also takes up much less space in the trunk and the voltage losses are lower.
Good work. Wish I'd found this earlier. I have been doing similar reverse engineering work on the control circuit. But only on a single unit for a 200W 50V LDMOS AMP. The standard boards have a N channel MOSFET switch on the DC input as low voltage disable protection on the OV rail. I replaced that with a P channel in the postive rail and use that to switch with my PTT line for on demand. The RF noise in VHF (50, 70, 144 MHz) is impossible to get rid of, the only way to be able to recieve weak signals is to to use the on demand approach. All works great now.
Damn Sharky, you like peanut butter filled electrical pretzels too????😏👍
4z4rb has built 2, 3 and 4. Just about everything has been done before.
Good job! I bought a few of those as well - I just went to switching regular batteries in the mobile instead. Charge when not transmitting, switched in series when transmitting.
Batteries in series makes great sense for mobile ldmos.
im actualy planning on modifying a spare alternator for 50V and putting it under the hud for amp usage. its going to sit next to te omg alternator and im thinking of connecting the diode ground to the omg car alternator 14V so the modified alternator will make only 36V. just changing the diodes to high voltage values and making a simple op amp transistor voltage control for the field, the alternator should be able to give higher voltage by just spinning it faster, so maybe a smaller poly is needed and of course big capacitors
you made the best of china boost converters. with the voltage sag you talk about this can be help along by adding a Maxell super cap across the input terminals. bring battery big cable to the cap and big cable 2 to your power supply . keeping cap close to supply as possible. will make a big improvement on SSB and AM with low dead key. you hade the right idea putting some caps inside. 73's
U get it working?
way to go sharky!!!!
I don't mean to be a dick but why is mine like a third your size and it was built 4 years ago
What modules u use BBI?
Edit:
Bltch I'm a fan