Hello - Thanks for posting you informative & kinda entertaining video....nice editing. I'm in the middle of this job now, and was watching to get any tips to help out. So I thought I'd make a comment - kinda long - but has some needed info that can help others out, so here goes: Tips for Harmonic Balancer R & R for m112 & M113 engines: Bolt Torque: Foot Pounds it's 150 Ft/Lb + add 90degrees of more rotation. \Which has to be getting to over 250 Foot Pounds...crazy high. I'm doing this job on my m112 V6 in our e320 wagon just now. I already broke a 3/4 to 1/2 socket adapter and a 1/2 breaker bar ! Problem is the 1/2" sockets adapters & torque wrench can't go much above 150 Ft/lb or they break, and this bolt is well above that limit. So, giving up on the small stuff, I went to Harbor Freight & got their 3/4" Wrench / Breaker Bar & socket set - this stuff is beastly heavy, not gonna break. In the reviews for the HFT 3/4" Socket Set other users are torquing Earthmoving machinery bolts to 495 Ft/lbs with this set. I took the 4' jack handle off my floor jack, & used that as a 'cheater bar' over the 3/4" drive ratchet and then leaned HARD on it, and with a loud crack or two the OE Balancer bolt released. I did buy the 'made in Taiwan' Balancer Counterholder tool, then extended it's handle with a deep socket & 1/2" extensions to brace on the frame rail - that's to hold the old balancer stationary while you use your beefy 3/4" ratchet or breaker bar to remove the existing bolt One tip: my bolt & balancer were original from year 2000. The OE factory bolt isn't a 27mm like shown here, it's a 17mm internal Allen type Hex, so you require a Metric 17mm hex socket to remove it...and you can't use a 1/2" extension as it'll break off. I did NOT want this to fail and therefore went to Amazon & bought the '3/4" Impact Hex Metric Socket Set" that goes from 14mm to (I think) 24mm - it's like 5 enormous bits and was just $36 in the Cassoman brand (China)....but super strong all this 3/4" drive stuff is either used by Heavy Diesel / Marine / Earthmover mechanic mechanics.. So it was helpful to watch this video for various reasons. I hope my comment here can help others to acheive success on their Mercedes Harmonic Balancer R & R.
Thanks brotha, Im doing a bunch of stuff on my 2002 G500 right now and just keep finding more and more things that need replacing. I have fan, water pump, tensioner, thermostat and bunch of other stuff out and as i was cleaning the pulleys and bolt ons i saw the Harmonic balancer was broken too. Im about to order parts and this comment helped so much with my shopping list. Appreciate you taking the time to write this up.
Did you buy the $25 Pittsburg Pro 3/4" breaker bar (20" long) or the $100 Icon 3/4" breaker bar (36" long) at Harbor Freight? And did you use a deep socket 3/4" drive 27mm to install? Thanks. Think I need to do this on a 1999 E320. (My harmonic balancer was replaced via recall around year 2000, so I have the 27mm hex bolt.)
Great video, thanks for sharing your experience with this job. I'm going to have to redo a repair that a shop did a couple years ago on my harmonic balancer. The seal that they replaced is leaking which is a shame. Guess I'll just do it myself!
I like your channel! really nice videos. thanks for the information with the seal behind the harmonic dampener. your dampener looked really bad! one of mine is starting to go out
When you replaced the pulley, did it still wobble? I got mine replaced at the dealership with the same engine and they said the wobble is nothing to worry about with a NEW oem pulley.
Was this your channel showing how to check 722.6 Mercedes Transmission Clutch packs with icarsoft scanner? Desperately trying to find this video again. Thank you, looking forward to your next video with the CLK!
I will eventually. The lift is occupied with another 350 that I'm SLOWLY parting out. This process already took couple months :) Hopefully I'll eventually get to 550 this summer.
Not 100% sure but in Foot Pounds it's 150 Foot Pounds + add 90degrees of more rotation. Which has to be getting to over 250 Foot Pounds...crazy high. I'm doing this job on my m112 V6 in our e320 wagon just now. I already broke a 3/4 to 1/2 socket adapter and a 1/2 breaker bar ! Problem is the 1/2" sockets adaptors & torque wrench can't go above 180 Ft/lb or they break, and this bolt is well above that limit. So, giving up on the small stuff, I went to Harbor Freight & got their 3/4" Wrench / Breaker Bar & socket set - this stuff is beastly heavy, not gonna break. In the reviews guys are torquing Earthmoving bolts to 495 Ft/lbs with this set. I took the 4' jack handle off my floor jack, & used that as a 'cheater bar' over the 3/4" drive ratchet and then leaned HARD on it, and with a loud crack or two the OE Balancer bolt released. One tip: my bolt & balancer were original from year 2000. The OE factory bolt isn't a 27mm like shown here, it's a 17mm internal Allen type Hex, so you require a Metric 17mm hex socket to remove it...and you can't use a 1/2" extension as it'll break off. I did NOT want this to fail and therefore went to Amazon & bought the '3/4" Impact Hex Metric Socket Set" that goes from 14mm to (I think) 24mm - it's like 5 enormous bits and was just $36 in the Cassoman brand (China)....but super strong all this 3/4" drive stuff is either used by Heavy Diesel / Marine / Earthmover mechanic mechanics. PS: I did buy the 'made in Taiwan' Balancer Counterholder tool, then extended it's handle with a deep socket & 1/2" extensions to brace on the frame rail - that's to hold the old balancer stationary while you use your beefy 3/4" ratchet or breaker bar to remove the existing bolt. So it was helpful to watch this video for various reasons. I hope my comment here can help others to acheive success on their Mercedes Harmonic Balancer R & R.
@@RamTruckSteeringFix Thank you for this comment here, I'm going to have to replace my front main seal. I had a Euro shop replace the harmonic balancer in January 2 years ago with a new bolt and seal. It's been leaking worse and worse as time goes on. There are a lot of nuances to this job (breaker bar size, the right bits, the holder tool), so thanks for helping everyone with the extra info
He said 150 Ft/LB plus you add 90 degrees more rotation of bolt. Thats cause most common 1/2" Torque wrenches only go that high. Plus use blue threadlocker on threads and ONLY use a new bolt as they are a 'onetime use' stretch bolt.
Hello - Thanks for posting you informative & kinda entertaining video....nice editing.
I'm in the middle of this job now, and was watching to get any tips to help out.
So I thought I'd make a comment - kinda long - but has some needed info that can help others out, so here goes:
Tips for Harmonic Balancer R & R for m112 & M113 engines:
Bolt Torque: Foot Pounds it's 150 Ft/Lb + add 90degrees of more rotation.
\Which has to be getting to over 250 Foot Pounds...crazy high.
I'm doing this job on my m112 V6 in our e320 wagon just now.
I already broke a 3/4 to 1/2 socket adapter and a 1/2 breaker bar !
Problem is the 1/2" sockets adapters & torque wrench can't go much above 150 Ft/lb or they break, and this bolt is well above that limit.
So, giving up on the small stuff, I went to Harbor Freight & got their 3/4" Wrench / Breaker Bar & socket set - this stuff is beastly heavy, not gonna break.
In the reviews for the HFT 3/4" Socket Set other users are torquing Earthmoving machinery bolts to 495 Ft/lbs with this set.
I took the 4' jack handle off my floor jack, & used that as a 'cheater bar' over the 3/4" drive ratchet and then leaned HARD on it, and with a loud crack or two the OE Balancer bolt released.
I did buy the 'made in Taiwan' Balancer Counterholder tool, then extended it's handle with a deep socket & 1/2" extensions to brace on the frame rail - that's to hold the old balancer stationary while you use your beefy 3/4" ratchet or breaker bar to remove the existing bolt
One tip: my bolt & balancer were original from year 2000.
The OE factory bolt isn't a 27mm like shown here, it's a 17mm internal Allen type Hex, so you require a Metric 17mm hex socket to remove it...and you can't use a 1/2" extension as it'll break off.
I did NOT want this to fail and therefore went to Amazon & bought the '3/4" Impact Hex Metric Socket Set" that goes from 14mm to (I think) 24mm - it's like 5 enormous bits and was just $36 in the Cassoman brand (China)....but super strong all this 3/4" drive stuff is either used by Heavy Diesel / Marine / Earthmover mechanic mechanics..
So it was helpful to watch this video for various reasons.
I hope my comment here can help others to acheive success on their Mercedes Harmonic Balancer R & R.
Thanks brotha,
Im doing a bunch of stuff on my 2002 G500 right now and just keep finding more and more things that need replacing. I have fan, water pump, tensioner, thermostat and bunch of other stuff out and as i was cleaning the pulleys and bolt ons i saw the Harmonic balancer was broken too. Im about to order parts and this comment helped so much with my shopping list. Appreciate you taking the time to write this up.
Did you buy the $25 Pittsburg Pro 3/4" breaker bar (20" long) or the $100 Icon 3/4" breaker bar (36" long) at Harbor Freight? And did you use a deep socket 3/4" drive 27mm to install? Thanks. Think I need to do this on a 1999 E320. (My harmonic balancer was replaced via recall around year 2000, so I have the 27mm hex bolt.)
Great video, thanks for sharing your experience with this job. I'm going to have to redo a repair that a shop did a couple years ago on my harmonic balancer. The seal that they replaced is leaking which is a shame. Guess I'll just do it myself!
I like your channel! really nice videos. thanks for the information with the seal behind the harmonic dampener. your dampener looked really bad! one of mine is starting to go out
Nice detail with how to remove the pulley.👍. Did replacing the dampener solve the vibration ?
Been long time ago, but ai guess not. Vibration was fixed by engine mounts replacement
🐐
11:58 The way yer camera slowly fell over to the right looked like a professional montage after you added the music! =D
Actually it was a montage, lol :)
The rotation was intended@@HETPEZB? Most people just speed the footage, add a beat, and call it done!
Yes, was an effect in the editing soft.
When you replaced the pulley, did it still wobble? I got mine replaced at the dealership with the same engine and they said the wobble is nothing to worry about with a NEW oem pulley.
Hello, no, wobbling was totally gone.
Was this your channel showing how to check 722.6 Mercedes Transmission Clutch packs with icarsoft scanner? Desperately trying to find this video again. Thank you, looking forward to your next video with the CLK!
Sorry, wasn’t me with the transmission clutch packs. Have 2 CLKs now (350 and 550) but totally no time to shoot the videos :(
@@HETPEZB Aww too bad! Was getting excited for your steaming CLK550
I will eventually. The lift is occupied with another 350 that I'm SLOWLY parting out. This process already took couple months :) Hopefully I'll eventually get to 550 this summer.
You might also accidentally hit radiator core or condenser
was the pulley wobbling?
Don’t recall for sure. I think the rubber insulator was on the way out.
What is the tightening torque of this screw in Nm?
Not 100% sure but in Foot Pounds it's 150 Foot Pounds + add 90degrees of more rotation. Which has to be getting to over 250 Foot Pounds...crazy high.
I'm doing this job on my m112 V6 in our e320 wagon just now.
I already broke a 3/4 to 1/2 socket adapter and a 1/2 breaker bar !
Problem is the 1/2" sockets adaptors & torque wrench can't go above 180 Ft/lb or they break, and this bolt is well above that limit.
So, giving up on the small stuff, I went to Harbor Freight & got their 3/4" Wrench / Breaker Bar & socket set - this stuff is beastly heavy, not gonna break.
In the reviews guys are torquing Earthmoving bolts to 495 Ft/lbs with this set.
I took the 4' jack handle off my floor jack, & used that as a 'cheater bar' over the 3/4" drive ratchet and then leaned HARD on it, and with a loud crack or two the OE Balancer bolt released.
One tip: my bolt & balancer were original from year 2000.
The OE factory bolt isn't a 27mm like shown here, it's a 17mm internal Allen type Hex, so you require a Metric 17mm hex socket to remove it...and you can't use a 1/2" extension as it'll break off.
I did NOT want this to fail and therefore went to Amazon & bought the '3/4" Impact Hex Metric Socket Set" that goes from 14mm to (I think) 24mm - it's like 5 enormous bits and was just $36 in the Cassoman brand (China)....but super strong all this 3/4" drive stuff is either used by Heavy Diesel / Marine / Earthmover mechanic mechanics.
PS: I did buy the 'made in Taiwan' Balancer Counterholder tool, then extended it's handle with a deep socket & 1/2" extensions to brace on the frame rail - that's to hold the old balancer stationary while you use your beefy 3/4" ratchet or breaker bar to remove the existing bolt.
So it was helpful to watch this video for various reasons.
I hope my comment here can help others to acheive success on their Mercedes Harmonic Balancer R & R.
@@RamTruckSteeringFix Thank you for this comment here, I'm going to have to replace my front main seal. I had a Euro shop replace the harmonic balancer in January 2 years ago with a new bolt and seal. It's been leaking worse and worse as time goes on. There are a lot of nuances to this job (breaker bar size, the right bits, the holder tool), so thanks for helping everyone with the extra info
Did you say 115 foot pounds or 150?
He said 150 Ft/LB plus you add 90 degrees more rotation of bolt.
Thats cause most common 1/2" Torque wrenches only go that high.
Plus use blue threadlocker on threads and ONLY use a new bolt as they are a 'onetime use' stretch bolt.
warning lemforde made in china
As long as it made ok - I’m fine with it :)
This is hilarious. Dont you fix phones??
Sorry I don’t
115 or 150 dude you gotta learn english
Doesn’t really matter 115 or 150. Both are a lot. Few ugga duggas should be fine. Can add a tread locker if you want to it play safe.