Dude. You have a knack for these vids. Simple. Informative. No profanity or vulgarity. No one had to bring out the hook to get you off the TH-cam "stage". Thanks so much!
Very helpful video and thanks. I just did 2003 F150 Supercrew and would like to add installing the new bearing took a bit of effort for me and might want to mention that as others may have an issue also. I tried the "repair bearing" and it wouldn't fit, although the autoparts store said it was the right one. When I got the regular replacement bearing, it still took quite a bit of persuasion to get this into place and care needs to be taken not to ruin the new bearing when installing. Thanks again!
Good vid bud!Gonna be doing the same job shortly.Just finished doing my fronts on my 97 f250.Rear axle seal started leaking now and suspect my bearing is gone aswell.Never ends with these older trucks.
I have a 98 expedition with similar play on the LR axle. Had a thud/ knocking type noise at slow speeds. I only replaced the bearing because the axle looked good but the noise is still there, I'll be replacing the axle soon. Good video.
Just had both of my axle shafts replaced on my 95 f150 with 336,200 miles on original axle shafts both of mine looked like your one so i think it was def time for mine to be changed
I'm in the same position, growling axle bearings. Got the bearings/seals/pinion shaft bolt, saving for axles just in case mine are grooved. I always used a 5/16" 6 point box end wrench for the shaft bolt, I stripped a couple using an 8MM.
Awesome video Tim. Thanks a bunch for posting this. I have watched it 3 times already to start getting familiar with the repair. I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ and I just noticed that the driver side tire has some oil dripping like shown in your video on the brakes and down on the wheel. Now I know what it is. My 8.8 rear has a Detroit locker in it. Do you know if the process is any different for removing the pinion rod with the Detroit locker? Anything I need to do different?
just a tip i noticed your 98 has the same white shocks i had i took them off and they only have half inch left of travel, what was ford thinking the 97 trucks had black shocks that are 3 inches longer they fit right on and made a bid difference for me on and off road
hey Tim, thanks for the video man, great detailed diy, i was wondering where did you buy all the replacement perts you used on the video, I'm trying to replace mine as well, it also vibrates when I'm driving, and one day i lifted the rear and pinned it and it wobbles slightly , but enough to see it, I'm hoping this will fix the problem thanks
I have bought them twice in the past, once at O'reilly's and once through Amazon. You might try getting your wheels balanced if you are just having vibrating.
Great video; very helpful information. I'm not sure if I need to do this or not; my 01 F150 is not showing any leakage, but it's making a rotating noise from the rear that a mechanic said sounds like the gears. W/ 155k mi I figured it's better to spend a little $$ and do this than to find out later I should have! I've watched several videos and yours is the most helpful I've come across. However, one thing they all have in common: they only show the right axle and bearings being dealt with. Did you repeat the process on the left side, or does the left side not have any bearings? I would find that very odd.
But should I replace the axel with the bearing? The Bearing rides right on the axel...so if the bearing is worn, maybe the axel too? I don't want to do all that work just to find out I need and axel as well.
Very good video helped out a lot, after all this time of researching and trying to figure out with that play was in my rear axle it has helped a lot, did your axle also have play when you would push it in and pull it out?
Auto yes it did for sure!!! Just make sure your axles are in good shape while your doing the job but it did for sure and made a big difference driving on the road too, truck seems more solid
Auto yeah I would do it all, I did mine all, outer bearings, axle seals, and do them as soon as you can before the axles wears from the bad bearings, and I change my unjoint at a bad time cuz I waiting until it let go on the highway which you don’t want to do lol, but yeah you’ll see once u have it all pulled out might as well do it all
I would spray penetrating oil like “Freeze off” or any of them and let it sit for a while ...an hour or overnight and try again. I just did both sides yesterday and one side tough... I used more force and it came out. I you won’t hurt anything but using more force as long as the end of the puller is just sitting on the bearing and not wedged in against the outer walls of the axle
Hi Clutch - I think it depends on which differential you have. Look at the tag on your differential and get the Tag No. and also see which differential you have 8.8 or 9.75. then go to dormanproducts.com and see which axles your numbers apply to. The right side is different then you left side, one is shorter. I hope that helps.
Hello. I have a Ford Explorer 1993. I need to change a shaft bearing rear. size 6.3cm see you have a Ford.the bearing of the same size? and what size puller? if you can then in centimeters. thank you
Hello. the question is relevant topic. I would like to know what oil?-back axle.rear axle. and what kind of oil you pour into the engine? Ford Explorer 1993 4.0 liter motor. unfortunately I don't have the car's user manual. if you know tell me. thank you. Ivan
Right on well made video I’m doing the same thing right now it’s been fun, I got the parts wrong size bearing and seal it’s been a long morning also I need a new axle I head in your video that you payed 100 bucks where did you order that from in you don’t mind my asking
Hi Jason, I bought everything on amazon. I have done this a few times and originally I bought it through Autozone. Quality seems the same. Be sure to get the axel for the correct side of the vehicle as they are different lengths. One note that I need to add to the process is that the bearing will have a little line all the way around it one one edge. That edge goes toward the differential.
Hi Gilber - I used a rear axle bearing puller. I bought it at Harbor Frieght but you can rent them for free (if you are in the States) at Autozone and O'reilly's Auto Parts.
Hi Grant- The differential oil lubricates them. I have done it both ways and have not seen any difference in longevity. I would grease the inside edge to make pressing them in easier and put a little oil on the bearings if you don't pack them.
So i did everything you said, but, the little screw that holds the dowel in, was snapped in half so i guess i need a new rack? I may just buy another axil from a junk yard:] Awesome video btw
That sucks, you might try looking at what is keeping everything in the differential, I have not done it, but it might be possible to undo a few bolts and pull everything out together. If the other option is getting a whole new axle you might just try it. Good luck!
No, you just have to put it in so it stays in place. having it visible and facing you allows you to take it out and put it back in easily.. I hope that helps, if not let me know.
Awesome video Tim. Thanks a bunch for posting this. I have watched it 3 times already to start getting familiar with the repair. I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ and I just noticed that the driver side tire has some oil dripping like shown in your video on the brakes and down on the wheel. Now I know what it is. My 8.8 has a Detroit locker in it. Do you know if the process is any different for removing the pinion rod? Anything I need to do different?
I am not completely sure, but doing an image search for you specific differential shows an exploded view of one that might help. It looks like you will have to unscrew a small screw and the pinion slides out. I’m looking at a diagram for an aftermarket locker differential. I hope this helps,.
Hey Tim it's people like you who save many people a lot money!!!
Thanks you for your help.
Great video and narration.
Dude. You have a knack for these vids. Simple. Informative. No profanity or vulgarity. No one had to bring out the hook to get you off the TH-cam "stage". Thanks so much!
Very helpful video and thanks. I just did 2003 F150 Supercrew and would like to add installing the new bearing took a bit of effort for me and might want to mention that as others may have an issue also. I tried the "repair bearing" and it wouldn't fit, although the autoparts store said it was the right one. When I got the regular replacement bearing, it still took quite a bit of persuasion to get this into place and care needs to be taken not to ruin the new bearing when installing. Thanks again!
Give this man a cold beer..!!
Tim Walsh, you did it best. Very helpful video.
Good vid bud!Gonna be doing the same job shortly.Just finished doing my fronts on my 97 f250.Rear axle seal started leaking now and suspect my bearing is gone aswell.Never ends with these older trucks.
Best video I’ve seen on ford rear diff.especially 8.8.thanks man.
Thanks Matt glad I could help… I’ll be doing the front wheel bearing soon :)
@@Timzorrr where did you get this bearing? I've called the Ford dealer and they keep giving me pt # XW4Z4221AA and it looks totally different
Thank you! I'll be tackling this tonight and having this video will help immensely
How’d it go?
I don't believe you, per your username.
I have a 98 expedition with similar play on the LR axle. Had a thud/ knocking type noise at slow speeds. I only replaced the bearing because the axle looked good but the noise is still there, I'll be replacing the axle soon. Good video.
Same happened to me I'm replacing axel rn
Just had both of my axle shafts replaced on my 95 f150 with 336,200 miles on original axle shafts both of mine looked like your one so i think it was def time for mine to be changed
I've got to do this job on my Lincoln Town Car when the weather is agreeable. I'm probably going to need a new axle shaft, too.
Why did nt you use new bearing for damaged axle. New bearing is longer with seal. Do axles all the time.
I'm in the same position, growling axle bearings. Got the bearings/seals/pinion shaft bolt, saving for axles just in case mine are grooved. I always used a 5/16" 6 point box end wrench for the shaft bolt, I stripped a couple using an 8MM.
Awesome video Tim. Thanks a bunch for posting this. I have watched it 3 times already to start getting familiar with the repair. I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ and I just noticed that the driver side tire has some oil dripping like shown in your video on the brakes and down on the wheel. Now I know what it is.
My 8.8 rear has a Detroit locker in it. Do you know if the process is any different for removing the pinion rod with the Detroit locker? Anything I need to do different?
just a tip i noticed your 98 has the same white shocks i had i took them off and they only have half inch left of travel, what was ford thinking the 97 trucks had black shocks that are 3 inches longer they fit right on and made a bid difference for me on and off road
Hey most have with the disc brakes in back if have drums do u have to remove any the brake parts to get axle out
hey Tim, thanks for the video man, great detailed diy, i was wondering where did you buy all the replacement perts you used on the video, I'm trying to replace mine as well, it also vibrates when I'm driving, and one day i lifted the rear and pinned it and it wobbles slightly , but enough to see it, I'm hoping this will fix the problem thanks
I have bought them twice in the past, once at O'reilly's and once through Amazon.
You might try getting your wheels balanced if you are just having vibrating.
Tim Walsh OK thanks Tim
Great video; very helpful information. I'm not sure if I need to do this or not; my 01 F150 is not showing any leakage, but it's making a rotating noise from the rear that a mechanic said sounds like the gears. W/ 155k mi I figured it's better to spend a little $$ and do this than to find out later I should have! I've watched several videos and yours is the most helpful I've come across. However, one thing they all have in common: they only show the right axle and bearings being dealt with. Did you repeat the process on the left side, or does the left side not have any bearings? I would find that very odd.
Thanks for the comment!
The process is the same for both sides but I think the axle part numbers are different meaning they're not interchangeable.
But should I replace the axel with the bearing? The Bearing rides right on the axel...so if the bearing is worn, maybe the axel too? I don't want to do all that work just to find out I need and axel as well.
Exactly, I have never seen an axel that isn't worn when the bearings are worn.
What a lot of folks do not know is many differentials are not built by the car manufacturer. Dana makes em for most everyone. Ford Chevy and Chrysler.
Very good video helped out a lot, after all this time of researching and trying to figure out with that play was in my rear axle it has helped a lot, did your axle also have play when you would push it in and pull it out?
Auto yes it did for sure!!! Just make sure your axles are in good shape while your doing the job but it did for sure and made a big difference driving on the road too, truck seems more solid
Auto yeah I would do it all, I did mine all, outer bearings, axle seals, and do them as soon as you can before the axles wears from the bad bearings, and I change my unjoint at a bad time cuz I waiting until it let go on the highway which you don’t want to do lol, but yeah you’ll see once u have it all pulled out might as well do it all
If you do one side better do the other avoid wasting time and money gear oil ain't cheap great video 👍
Great video could mention where you bought the axle from?
The bearing won’t come out. I’m using the same slide hammer setup as you and it won’t budge. Anything I can try?
I would spray penetrating oil like “Freeze off” or any of them and let it sit for a while ...an hour or overnight and try again.
I just did both sides yesterday and one side tough... I used more force and it came out. I you won’t hurt anything but using more force as long as the end of the puller is just sitting on the bearing and not wedged in against the outer walls of the axle
There were a few typos in my reply but I’m sure you get the idea
Are the 99 f150 rear end/axel interchangeable with a 98 f150, one is a manual and one is an automatic
Hi Clutch - I think it depends on which differential you have.
Look at the tag on your differential and get the Tag No. and also see which differential you have 8.8 or 9.75. then go to dormanproducts.com and see which axles your numbers apply to.
The right side is different then you left side, one is shorter. I hope that helps.
How many miles did you put on it with it making the whining noise?
Hello. I have a Ford Explorer 1993. I need to change a shaft bearing
rear. size 6.3cm see you have a Ford.the bearing of the same size? and
what size puller? if you can then in centimeters. thank you
Sorry, I just saw this and now it has been two months. If you still need help let me know.
Hello. the question is relevant topic.
I would like to know what oil?-back axle.rear axle.
and what kind of oil you pour into the engine?
Ford Explorer 1993 4.0 liter motor.
unfortunately I don't have the car's user manual.
if you know tell me.
thank you. Ivan
Thanks,,you’re Information working for me!
Where did you purchase new axle?
I guess the wife won't be using that pan for a casserole any time soon..
Right on well made video I’m doing the same thing right now it’s been fun, I got the parts wrong size bearing and seal it’s been a long morning also I need a new axle I head in your video that you payed 100 bucks where did you order that from in you don’t mind my asking
Hi Jason,
I bought everything on amazon.
I have done this a few times and originally I bought it through Autozone. Quality seems the same.
Be sure to get the axel for the correct side of the vehicle as they are different lengths.
One note that I need to add to the process is that the bearing will have a little line all the way around it one one edge. That edge goes toward the differential.
Right on thank you very much I’ll look into that I appreciate you getting back to me
Can you tell me the name at the tool you use to remove seal and bearing. Thank you
Hi Gilber - I used a rear axle bearing puller. I bought it at Harbor Frieght but you can rent them for free (if you are in the States) at Autozone and O'reilly's Auto Parts.
Very good!
informative. thank you
So I don't have all the extra issues is why I preemptively changed the axle bearings and seals. They are cheap and not that hard to do.
Good video
What about packing the bearings with axle grease?
Hi Grant- The differential oil lubricates them. I have done it both ways and have not seen any difference in longevity. I would grease the inside edge to make pressing them in easier and put a little oil on the bearings if you don't pack them.
Tim Walsh
ok thanks appreciate it, great video I'll be doing mine with more confidence now.
So i did everything you said, but, the little screw that holds the dowel in, was snapped in half so i guess i need a new rack? I may just buy another axil from a junk yard:] Awesome video btw
That sucks, you might try looking at what is keeping everything in the differential, I have not done it, but it might be possible to undo a few bolts and pull everything out together.
If the other option is getting a whole new axle you might just try it. Good luck!
Thanks
Doesn't your diff have a drain plug.
Yep
Howd you fill it?
How to get rear gears lined back up
Jerry he never got hem out,
Let that bearing go for a while, huh?
does the C shaped washer orientation matter?
No, you just have to put it in so it stays in place. having it visible and facing you allows you to take it out and put it back in easily.. I hope that helps, if not let me know.
Nececito una transmisión de esas
Good
you could have used a repair bearing and reused the old axle. See rock auto.
Some bearings don't come out that easy.
with this stinking no inner race style always need new axle but they can be had for the same price i paid in 81! look in to repair bearings from SKF
كم اف كيلو متر تغير زيت دفرنس
Awesome video Tim. Thanks a bunch for posting this. I have watched it 3 times already to start getting familiar with the repair. I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ and I just noticed that the driver side tire has some oil dripping like shown in your video on the brakes and down on the wheel. Now I know what it is.
My 8.8 has a Detroit locker in it. Do you know if the process is any different for removing the pinion rod? Anything I need to do different?
I am not completely sure, but doing an image search for you specific differential shows an exploded view of one that might help. It looks like you will have to unscrew a small screw and the pinion slides out. I’m looking at a diagram for an aftermarket locker differential. I hope this helps,.
Thank you Tim.