Important tip: If you don't have a lift, and dont want to remove the undershield from the car, you can reach the rear upper nuts from the front side. Just need a 21mm socket and a breaker bar to hold it in place. This will save you a ton of time if you are working on the floor of garage.
If you came here because you can't figure out how to get the ball joint back into the knuckle, on the left side turn the steering o to the left. On the right side turn it to the right. I just got done doing the left side and figured this out!!
Nice vid but you forgot to mention the control arm bolts are TTY/one time use and they should be replaced. Also you need to unbolt the A/C compressor to be able toremove the front bolt on the passenger side control arm!
doing mine today, I hope everything goes smooth and fixes that clunking noise. I replaced the sway bar links and shocks on the front end last year. working on my own car definitely saves me money for sure, why should I pay a mechanic a lot of money I don't have, when I could watch this video and learn how to do it.
This is also the exact procedure to replace a lower control arm on a 2013-2019 range rover evoque. There is literally no videos or even instructions online so once I figured out they shared parts this video helped a lot!
In the northeast we see this videos and laugh. Our cars look a bit different underneath when its time for control arms. No wrenches needed usually we go right to torch
For anyone taking this on, get a serpentine belt wrench from harbor freight to get the passenger side bushing bolt. You’ll have to remove the compressor regardless. Just do it
Just finished using this to do the drivers side on a 2016 Ford Transit Connect. Everything is the same except the big bolt on the front has a captive nut. You have to remove the cage around it. 10MM and 12MM with an impact did them just fine because of rust. Thanks
Brilliant very well explained thanks for sharing that information great video i have a knocking sound on my ford focus mk3 and i carnt find it on the left hand side
If you've just had new arms installed, and now you are getting a clunk when driving on uneven pavement (seems to happen more if the wheel goes down and up vs. up and down,) as well as when you wiggle the steering wheel while the car is off and the steering lock is engaged, what would your first inclinations be?
Good video! I am doing it right now! Only problem I have is T55 BOLT stuck. I cant remove it. I remove 18mm nut from it though. My guess its just too mach rush between ball joint groove and T55 bolt. I hit it with 10lbs sladge hummer and its still frozen in place...
I try heat, penetrating oil...still cant remove it. Finally soaking in Acetone and will go sleep.. Will try tomorrow. I broke T55 socket trying to twist it ..lol 🙃🥱
I had to use a 2x4 board and a hammer to smack rear part into place over the 2 bolts. You’ll have to remove the end link up top or you’ll never line up that little bracket.
so cool to see you do this ty i will be doing mine, i was wondering if both sides are the same to remove and install. ?? plus i will definitely be buying my parts from, you guys, at 1a , i have bought a lot from you already,
Im having a lot of trouble getting the back 2 bolts to line up. Every time I hammer it in its anyways to the right of the hole(Im doing drivers side). Any tips??
Interesting that the North American Focus has a solid lower control arm where as a UK vehicle it's a pressed steel hollow one. Also never see security key lug nut on an alloy wheel, guess the low life can't be bothered to steal wheels in US! 😀
I've had a lot of trouble fitting the balljoint on my control arm, while the rubber boot is fully seated with the knuckle, the tapered part is interfering with the bolt. However if I slightly lower it, there is a noticeable gap between the top part of the mount and the ball joint. May I know how do I proceed from here?
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
Important tip: If you don't have a lift, and dont want to remove the undershield from the car, you can reach the rear upper nuts from the front side. Just need a 21mm socket and a breaker bar to hold it in place. This will save you a ton of time if you are working on the floor of garage.
Thank you calling out all socket and wrench sizes as well as torque settings.
+Jason Craig Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Hoping to do this on my grandsons 2013 this week, your video gave me the confidence I need. Well done, thank you
If you came here because you can't figure out how to get the ball joint back into the knuckle, on the left side turn the steering o to the left. On the right side turn it to the right. I just got done doing the left side and figured this out!!
Nice vid but you forgot to mention the control arm bolts are TTY/one time use and they should be replaced. Also you need to unbolt the A/C compressor to be able toremove the front bolt on the passenger side control arm!
doing mine today, I hope everything goes smooth and fixes that clunking noise. I replaced the sway bar links and shocks on the front end last year. working on my own car definitely saves me money for sure, why should I pay a mechanic a lot of money I don't have, when I could watch this video and learn how to do it.
This is also the exact procedure to replace a lower control arm on a 2013-2019 range rover evoque. There is literally no videos or even instructions online so once I figured out they shared parts this video helped a lot!
Would have been helpful to see the other side where the front lower control arm bolt has no room for a socket.
Remove the ac cover and move the ac lines over and you can stick a small socket in there with a breaker bar
I was able to slide in a box end by the down pipe.
Great guide! Used this to do my LCA on a 2017 Focus ST
In the northeast we see this videos and laugh. Our cars look a bit different underneath when its time for control arms. No wrenches needed usually we go right to torch
For anyone taking this on, get a serpentine belt wrench from harbor freight to get the passenger side bushing bolt. You’ll have to remove the compressor regardless. Just do it
Just finished using this to do the drivers side on a 2016 Ford Transit Connect. Everything is the same except the big bolt on the front has a captive nut. You have to remove the cage around it. 10MM and 12MM with an impact did them just fine because of rust. Thanks
Thank god this doesn't look too tough to pull off. Shop wants to charge me 3k$ for this job on both sides. Just for control arms and bushings
Brilliant very well explained thanks for sharing that information great video i have a knocking sound on my ford focus mk3 and i carnt find it on the left hand side
Beautiful presentation.Thanks a lot.
If you've just had new arms installed, and now you are getting a clunk when driving on uneven pavement (seems to happen more if the wheel goes down and up vs. up and down,) as well as when you wiggle the steering wheel while the car is off and the steering lock is engaged, what would your first inclinations be?
Nice video! Thanks!
Where do you get the torque-amount info?
Can this same method be done on the 2013-18 Ford Fusion SE, I have a 2016 Ford Fusion SE, the driver side lower control arm needs replacing
Hello .Can the aluminum swingarm be replaced with a steel one?
If you have a bent inner and outer tie rod would that cause the knuckle not to sit right also?
Great content
Hi I have a 2012 mk3 focus. Can you tell me what size bolts I need to replace please
Good video! I am doing it right now!
Only problem I have is T55 BOLT stuck. I cant remove it. I remove 18mm nut from it though. My guess its just too mach rush between ball joint groove and T55 bolt. I hit it with 10lbs sladge hummer and its still frozen in place...
I try heat, penetrating oil...still cant remove it. Finally soaking in Acetone and will go sleep.. Will try tomorrow.
I broke T55 socket trying to twist it ..lol 🙃🥱
You seem to have a lisp?? lol
What is the size (mm) of the ball joints for this Ford Focus Mk3? Thanks in advance!
I had to use a 2x4 board and a hammer to smack rear part into place over the 2 bolts. You’ll have to remove the end link up top or you’ll never line up that little bracket.
Did you have to do anything else to get these on? I’ve been trying to smack it for over an hour and can’t get it to budge
so cool to see you do this ty i will be doing mine, i was wondering if both sides are the same to remove and install. ?? plus i will definitely be buying my parts from, you guys, at 1a , i have bought a lot from you already,
🎉🎉🎉 Nice tutorial
Perfect thank you
Im having a lot of trouble getting the back 2 bolts to line up. Every time I hammer it in its anyways to the right of the hole(Im doing drivers side). Any tips??
Man this video is right on. Thanks 👍 👌
I’ve never seen one of those ball joints drop out so easily
Sway bar link hex stripped no idea how to get the swag bar up now
If you can’t get the ball joint out have someone wiggle the steering wheel while you pry ball joint out
Interesting that the North American Focus has a solid lower control arm where as a UK vehicle it's a pressed steel hollow one. Also never see security key lug nut on an alloy wheel, guess the low life can't be bothered to steal wheels in US! 😀
How come shops don't sell Ford Focus Mk3 ball joints by themselves?? Instead they sell the whole thing arm and joint all together 🤔
What a dumb idea to put the control arm bracket under the sway bar bushing. Great engineering ford as always 🫠
Don't forget to check the front tracking.
I don't know how you got the rear bolts to align first try. Ive been trying for hours.
I had to put a jack (working from floor not lift) on the rear bushing housing and raise it a bit until they aligned.
Did you have to smack the bracket in to place or did it align perfectly after you jacked it up?
@@kellywhite948 did you have to do anything else to get those bolts in? I’ve been trying to align the bracket for the upper control arm for a while
That front bolt on my car is hard to get to there's no way to get an impact on it is this a Ford focus mines of 2012
Tried this not happening it's like the wishbone to small but it isnt
This is very similar to a Volvo P3 platform.
Never apply heat to suspension components, unless it is an absolute last resort.
Quisiera mirar como cambia el del lado del pasajero
+Gabriel Santiago We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Jj
I've had a lot of trouble fitting the balljoint on my control arm, while the rubber boot is fully seated with the knuckle, the tapered part is interfering with the bolt. However if I slightly lower it, there is a noticeable gap between the top part of the mount and the ball joint. May I know how do I proceed from here?