I continuously got irritated why I had a curved edge on my blade after peening. You're the first one I see to refer to this and how to remove the burr properly. Thanks!!
thank you SO VERY MUCH for your 'Guitar string, pluck' tip that led me to another discovery as Im still learning on my first scythe setup ever, if your ridge from your plucking meathod is steep, you don't have to waste stone as you are trying to grind the metal down with the stone which does not work like that unless you're on a recriptrating device... JUST FLIP THE BLADE OVER!! Ping the other side (ever so lightly) because chances are you got that first ridge from pinging too hard - as did I. "I had to break it to teach myself how to fix it then took that knowledge to the world, such a simple fix, flip the blade.
Thank you so much for this wonderful video! I just started scything yesterday and knew I would have to peen eventually. Now I understand what to do with that peening jig! And I'm going to ask my husband to build us a bench like yours - it looks perfect. Thanks again for sharing - I really appreciate it!
Nice tool, but in all fairness I prefer the traditional pocket-size anvil and hammer. It's less taxing on the blade and quicker, although I admit it takes some practice to get a good hand with it.
Federico Alinovi Thanks for the comment, I don't actually use this myself, its just something else we offer to people as an alternative to free hand peening. I much prefer the free hand peening with flat hammer and pointed anvil from Germany and Austria respectively, with a bit of practice the results can be far better.,
Definitly, and is I think the prefered method for most people. It took me perhaps 5 attempts at peening new sickles until I was happy and comfortable and safe (About 5 hours of practice). I had the advantage to practice on all the blades we sell as almost everything we sell is ready to mow peened.. Thanks for your comments, have a great time in your garden.
Great video. It is also possible to set-up a fly-press to peen as beautifully as this. Though being an armour-maker I prefer to peen with just the right hammer over a stake... listening for the right change in pitch as I go. You said it, just with forging any blade... the magic word is consistency. BRAVO to you.
yes you are right, thats a property/side effect of the peening jig. We personally use only the hammer anvil as shown in our other videos, however do try and show at least propper use of this method to people wanting something that can cause less problems if you don't want to practice so much. But saying that with the help of the sanding blocks and keeping things clean we do find people learn the (hammer/anvil) method pretty quickly so usually encourage that over this jig.
We are in the czech republic... you could search for Simon at "The scythe shop" if you google that, or there are other instructors in the uk. Regardless of what you cut you will eventually need to peen, with anvil or peening jig the edge of the blade, it might be just once a year or after every hour or so of mowing, the effectivness and ease of mowing is greatly improved by keeping it sharp and peening is the best thing for a scythe to keep the edge strong and in good condition, if done well. :)
Personally there is quite a difference between the flat and pointed anvil (which we use) the guide and support do help for a beginner but I don't personally use them, they never existed when I started. The Pointed avil, turning the blade over and using a flat hammer IMHO do make it easier and more acurate to peen, combined with the sanding block to clean everything so you can actually see each hammer blow, definitly helps to learn and be precise. :)
Hi @Snurdgerbly to Whet I believe originates from their being water and the stone actually being wet. This is achieved by storing stone in the whetstone holder on your belt. I know there are exceptions when with other sharpening methods, perhaps a steel rod (forget what its called) for a kitchen knife you wouldn't use water, but honing in the field (as I understand) isn't one of the exceptions. So you need water, stone should be wet. It works better, stone doesn't become clogged.
:) Not automatically you do need to have additional skill and some considerations how to fix it, but its definitely do able. The most simple repair is to bend back or flatten folded metal, but in combination with a file and then different hammer action its possible to pull and shape the metal. But I've done it myself in a really nice way on someone elses rally damaged blade and was supprised by the results, but I couldn't do it 4 years ago. I do have a video of the process from that blade, I'll
@@SarrujandePalombera_Cantabria I don't think that was what I meant in the comment, which is 7 years old :) I guess I was replying to someone else about how to repair blades, which depends on the damage can be more difficult if your not yet accurate with the hammer, and perhaps in such a case if your not yet accurate them the blade might get more damaged instead of less... But yes the peening jig is pretty easy to use, but the results arn't as good as the free hand method if you put in the time to practice which is required, but also not imposible or that difficult.
I think its not a hardness thing, as our blades are 47RC but still malable, hammers and anvils are at least 55 RC. I'm not an expert but its more connected with the malableness of the metal, not just the hardness. :) Thanks for the extra info about how it went :)
Thanks for indulging my question. I made a little experiment to see if the knife, soft that it is, is ductile enough for peening. Basically, I just tried to hammer a dent into the metal. Since it was vary hard to make a dent, I've concluded that the knife would probably crack if I tried to deform it significantly. Back to "plan A". Blades intended to be peened, I guess, are made very soft, and rely entirely on work hardening for edge retention. Thanks again
@ZachreyCA Sounds like you need to hit a little harder perhaps, or and repeat along the blade the process more times with each cap. You could also try just peening the very edge with the free hand peening method to help you move up to free hand peening and get better results without risking too much damage etc. Good luck I don't think you need to remove all the laquer for peening jig method, for the free hand anvil method having things clean is really important.
Спасибо за урок! Очень важное сравнение готовой к кошению косы с гитарной струной . Такая же равномерная шероховатость по режущей поверхности клинка. Только в таком состоянии коса очень хорошо работает. Учился работать с джигом по Вашему видео. Спасибо ещё раз.
@Snurdgerbly Yep language is important and also interesting for me, what and how we say things, as everything started with the word/thought :) Thanks again for the kind comments and encouragement. I often notice similarities between Czech words (not my native language) which my wife through familiarity has over looked (her native language), which provoke thought about something or other and are interesting.
I got an ad for a string trimmer while watching a scything video - both have to do with mowing. I guess if I get too frustrated with the scythe I can go get a trimmer. I love everything about the scythe: human powered, no moving parts - nothing to break / maintain except peening and honing. No smells, no ongoing costs, nothing to replace over my lifetime (possibly a snath or handle) - something I could bequeath to my grandkids. Anyway, I alluded to being frustrated because I just filed out a couple little tears and repeened it and honed it, but it doesn't work now. I'm trying to figure out what I did / am doing wrong.
Its differcult to say without a picture, feel free to email me at me@kosimesnadno.cz and I'll take a look. Otherwise its probably not so sharp, and perhaps the angle has changed on the snath ?
There are many different styles of Austrian or other blades... this particular blade is just more curved. There are advantages and reasons for it being made like that, it can be made lighter and stronger as the different shapes all hold tension which gives it the rigidity it needs with out being massive and heavy. This is in comparison with the English/American stamped blades or low quality Austrian imitations which tend to be straight/flat and heavier to compensate. Hope this answers yr Q ? :)
Many thanks for the video, very helpful. One question. Because of the delay in the sound on the video it is difficult to see weather your whetstone motion is rubbing towards the sharp edge or running off the sharp edge. Does that make sense?
Great video, thanks. I have peened my blade using a peening jig and then sharpened using the stones. It is still not cutting very well though. Would this mean it needs more peening or more sharpening with the stone? Without seeing my blade it is probably difficult to comment. I am just unsure how long I should be spending peening and then sharpening. I have spent at least 1/2 hour peening thus far and given it a good sharpen and yet it still does not cut great. Of course this could be my technique!
As you say difficult to say, without looking at it. And of course you can't tell from 30 minutes of peening, as you don't know what condition it was in when you started, or the effectiveness/quality of the peening jig, etc etc... So basicly if its not sharp after peening then its not been peened enough :) The honeing with a whetstone is really just touching it up, and unless your using a file you might not be able to do much to improve things with the honing if its not well peened. Have you seen the "Thumb test" video, and tried scapeping you loose skine across, not along the blade to listen to the sound it makes, how much it grips your finger.? On a new blade it still takes me about 1hour, depending on length of course... and I'd suggest most people need at least 2 hours free hand peening. Perhaps your using a very light hammer ?
Thanks for this mate, will be looking for a nice piece of wood and will be getting making this... going to need two pieces of wood as both my partner and i use the scythe lol
Excellent video, thank you. A couple of questions if I may, I noticed you started peening from the centre of the blade ,was this just for the purpose of the demo or is that what you would do in practice. Also after peening would you then sharpen the blade with a whetstone before use. Thank you, Max
@ndudman8 ...and you haven't forgotten the name of the steel rod; it's variously known as a sharpening steel, or chef's or butcher's steel, or simply, a steel. Keep up the good work, and keep honing your craft. It's what being human is all about.
I'm guessing, don't be offended please, but that your edge isn't as thin as it could be, as it shouldn't be necessary to apply much pressure to only remove the bure. Although I know what you mean about those diamond files they are much nicer and keep sharp. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the nice comments, yes I started in the middle mainly for the video, most important is that you process the edge in an even and consistent way, so its best to start at one of the ends. After using the peening jig, you definitely need to find the bur created by pushing the edge against the metal post and remove this IMHO results from the jig don't match those I, or other practiced people can get with the free hand peening method. Have a great time mowing :)
I'm curious about alternative uses for the peening jig I have a modern production Sabatier carbon-steel chef's knife that's pretty soft. I suspect that it's well short of its hardness potential, and over the past decade, sharpening has made that final bevel rather large. It is time to refine the bevel, and rather than file off the shoulders, it seems to me that I could refine it by peening, which would have the added benefit of work-hardening the steel. Am I talking total nonsense?
@lonestarhomestead Happy to share, I know what its like to not know yet how to do something :) Thanks for the kind words, and best of luck with your grass and garden.
First of all bang any damage flat again gently, then you need to think how much damage needs filing away, gently to avoid any further damage. Oh and pick up those stones if you can to clear the garden for next time :) Sorry can't other any more advice via chatting, as we must prepare now for a course today, and the sun is out finally here.
Possibly ? I've never tried or thought about peening a knice. The peening jig is less acurate, and won't AFAIC do as good a job as the free hand method with hammer and anvil (in the hands of someone with practice) So i'd guess you still better off using the water stone wi the knife.
@ndudman8 I think I may be getting into scything too much....I just went out at 11pm to do it because I worked out it was the optimum time to do it.... no clouds, it'd just rained earlier, and it's best to cut when the grass is wet, and it's cold, so you've got decent light from the moon, though i added a head lamp in there too, don't overheat like during the day and no annoying sounds or people gawking.
no problem, with the free hand peening its generally going to be better results. Just for information, I never use this method, just show how it could'would be done, I do the free hand way, show in the other videos. Thanks for the comment :)
Will peening repair slightly damaged blades? My blade as a couple of small folded edges I would like to fix. One edge is a slight tare, and the other one is bent and appears not to have any tare. Thank you for your response
Thanks, and nice to see more mowers getting inspired and excited about the power of such a simple toool. Our webshop is located in Czech republic... but there are other simular shops in USA, UK, France, Canada, AU. Where are you closest too...
@@ndudman8 Ah yes indeed. I bought mine from Scythe Supply in Perry, ME USA. I was really curious to how this is done. I have been doing a lot of reading about it. Thank you for this. I unfortunately glued my upper handle backwards. Any tips on how to remove the glue? 🤣😖🤕
@ndudman8 I'm just an old pedant. All craft skills call for a fine understanding of the proper method, and language is no exception. I love to see (and hear) the right words used well, and cringe at carelessness. We humans are crafty buggers, after all; it's what defines us. In order to use words well, one needs to understand their full meaning. True, whetstones are generally used wet, but I wonder if the word "whet" is onomatopoeic. Think of the sound it makes on the scythe blade.
Don't forget to remove the burr created by pushing the edge against the post during using the peening jig. Use a file gently or a caurse whet stone to hone the edge until u can't feel the buur with your nail. Don't give up :) Or better still finish the very edge with a good hammer and anvil as shown in other videos. Good luck and don't give up, you'll get it :)
I often wonder about the burr. If you leave it shaped/facing the right way/right angle towards the grass, then it's as sharp as the blade behind it. Why not then just let the GRASS remove the burr, while the burr does the cutting!!
Hi, my name is Detlef and I am a German. we in Germany don`t know a peening Jig. But I think that with this tool it is much more easier to sharpen the scythe. Where I can get one?
Yes it is easier, however the result isn't as good as with free hand peening with practice. Its a good comprimise though if you don't or can't invest in the time to learn free hand peening. We do sell them at our shop in czech kosimesnadno.cz... or the UK at TheScytheShop and I'm sure there are places in germany as well, sorry don't remember off hand.
Lovely video. I'm watching it again and still enjoying it a year later!! Can I ask, how do you START with a new blade, that couldn't be called 'blunt' but has a thick slab of a spine about 2mm thick where the blade should be?? Do you file it all down to a deep band (1cm back into the blade)? Or do you start coarse peening immediately?? I have spent easily 12 hours trying to peen the damn thing down with both peening 'caps' I got from ye. I may have eventually put little dents into the 'no. 1' cap, from belting the blade harder and harder to flatten it. I have also spent a lot of time filing it, and sadly to say, have had more success sharpening it by filing. I am at a loss. When I get a chance I think I will just come over from Ireland to ye for one of yere courses, and bring my useless blade with me to see what I'm doing wrong!!
I've not had to do it myself, but yes I would take a file or grinder and remove/flatten the edge out... my question though is what type of blade comes in that condition (Quality?) or gets that thick from use ? Either way grinding is a way to thin it down so that peening even makes any difference :) It could be that the material is just not flexable, you might find that out once you've thined it a little. The cheap, rusian, or even worst EU (chineese) blades are less flexable (RU), or unusable (EU). Good luck
"KOCA No.7" on sticker and embossed on the metal is "RUSS'A 10". If there is any problem for you by me posting this info here please delete, no problem
@@Sionnach1601 No problem posting any comments as long as they are Polite :) I don't know much about all the different types of blades etc, but I'd guess yours is Russian, and from what little I know about russian blades is they tend to be a little softer, but less flexable. Definitly in a differenc class to moder EU blades (Chineese), so don't give up... is it a new or old blade ? Which ever way try grinding it down a little thiner and have a go at peening :)
@@ndudman8 It was brand new, bought from a guy in Galway. I have it "edgey", like plenty sharp enough to saw through meat but it doesnt have that leaf sharp thinness i see from yours after peening. I'll see how I get on with it now, but am beginning to think I might just come over for one of yere courses and buy a proper Austrian one off ye and an anvil as well. Thanks very much again for the replies :)
@@Sionnach1601 Peening well, and keeping the really sharp, for me makes all the difference, and something I know we all can transform our mowing with. It still brings a smile to my face when its so easy. I'm sure there are courses etc in the UK. but your more than welcome to attend one of our's, we have a course on 3rd August. I do it in English, while my wife translates, usually turns out by the end of the course that many of the czech people have learnt English on the course as well.
Great thank you very much! Tried peening and did not get a very good result, turns out I was beating the shit out of the poor thing when I need to be very gentle.
@tangocolt02 Sounds great... I try to get up early in the morning 5am or cut late in the evening... but hadn't thought of cutting by moon light, YET. :)
For reference and to compile what I consider to be the most effective scythe peening videos on youtube, I have compiled a few of your peening videos into one. If you would rather I hadn't of done this I can give the compilation to you and delete it from my channel. Whatever you are happy with is fine with me. Thanks, Peter Gilbert, Rooth, New Brunswick, Canada
Kind of depends on the quality and condition, a good idea would be to approach the seller... the lower quality ones can get damaged more easily... but of course everything can be destroyed :) Sorry I can't help more.
ndudman8: After you're finished peening, how do you get the peening jig out of the log? Does it easily come out? or is there a special tool to get the jig out like a crowbar?
I'm wondering if I might have inadvertantly created a curl on my blade. I was peening and experimenting with changing the height of the (see if I can describe this properly) the height of the ribbed side of the blade above the edge I was peening. Anway, I've mowed probably 10 times now and mowed some larger areas and was doing quite good. But I messed the edge up, so I filed it a bit and repeened it. I can't really tell what's happening. I've gotta put some glasses on / look more closely. I just go along and hope it's doing what it should. Anyway, I can't mow now. So. I guess I'll just try a few more things - make sure I'm level left and right. Maybe adjust my feet height with some thin boards, if needed. Is there an easy way to look at how the sharpened edge comes off the blade? I guess, you're saying, it should come off straight?
This generally happens when you peen too far away from the edge, before you've got good and consistant at peen the very edge only, making sure that all the hammer blows are joined, and of course that you don't hit one place more than once. Again if you have pictures send them to me@kosimesnadno.cz and perhaps I'll have another suggestion, best of luck with sorting it out.
Super kind, ndudman8. I'm mowed a couple days ago and it started rough. But somehow sharpening made it get better. Sharpening with the stone in the field. I had just put some nicks in the blade and attempted to file and peen it back, but had messed it up. Then after awhile and after thinking about your videos, I went and peened it again. Putting my glasses on to try to actually see what was happening. And then it got a lot easier. Still could be better, I'm thinking, but back to reasonable. I mowed like 8 32 gallon trash cans that I'm using as mulch for the garden / material for the compost bin. Just wanted to say thank you. Also, do you sell scythes / sickles. I have a scythe (ditch blade) but now I want a sickle, maybe. I don't want to spend more than I need to (so I probably won't get it) but I watched you mowing with a long grass blade and I want one of those now. I'll for that though. But I do have a bunch of raspberries I want to mow around so they don't get overcrowded and get vines all over them. Sorry, that was so long winded.
Its very nice of you to say... although I know there are other people around who know a great deal, but thanks for the nice words. We do have it for sale at mowingwithease d o t com
I continuously got irritated why I had a curved edge on my blade after peening. You're the first one I see to refer to this and how to remove the burr properly. Thanks!!
Your welcome, glad it helped :)
By far, the most complete and educational video on peening and sharpening the blade. Thanks for posting!
thank you SO VERY MUCH for your 'Guitar string, pluck' tip that led me to another discovery as Im still learning on my first scythe setup ever, if your ridge from your plucking meathod is steep, you don't have to waste stone as you are trying to grind the metal down with the stone which does not work like that unless you're on a recriptrating device... JUST FLIP THE BLADE OVER!! Ping the other side (ever so lightly) because chances are you got that first ridge from pinging too hard - as did I. "I had to break it to teach myself how to fix it then took that knowledge to the world, such a simple fix, flip the blade.
Very good lesson. Thank you. I have never thought about timbering such a stool by myself. Without a stool it's very unconveniant.
This is absolutely fascinating. I never thought of peening as away to sharpen an edge. Thank you for this video.
Thank you so much for this wonderful video! I just started scything yesterday and knew I would have to peen eventually. Now I understand what to do with that peening jig! And I'm going to ask my husband to build us a bench like yours - it looks perfect. Thanks again for sharing - I really appreciate it!
Nice tool, but in all fairness I prefer the traditional pocket-size anvil and hammer.
It's less taxing on the blade and quicker, although I admit it takes some practice to get a good hand with it.
Federico Alinovi Thanks for the comment, I don't actually use this myself, its just something else we offer to people as an alternative to free hand peening. I much prefer the free hand peening with flat hammer and pointed anvil from Germany and Austria respectively, with a bit of practice the results can be far better.,
Really good video; clear instructions and explanations 🙂
Thanks for your kind comments, glad its still useful after all these years.
Definitly, and is I think the prefered method for most people. It took me perhaps 5 attempts at peening new sickles until I was happy and comfortable and safe (About 5 hours of practice). I had the advantage to practice on all the blades we sell as almost everything we sell is ready to mow peened.. Thanks for your comments, have a great time in your garden.
Thank you for this! I was very confused how to use the tools when I got them
Great video. It is also possible to set-up a fly-press to peen as beautifully as this. Though being an armour-maker I prefer to peen with just the right hammer over a stake... listening for the right change in pitch as I go. You said it, just with forging any blade... the magic word is consistency. BRAVO to you.
yes you are right, thats a property/side effect of the peening jig. We personally use only the hammer anvil as shown in our other videos, however do try and show at least propper use of this method to people wanting something that can cause less problems if you don't want to practice so much. But saying that with the help of the sanding blocks and keeping things clean we do find people learn the (hammer/anvil) method pretty quickly so usually encourage that over this jig.
Your welcome, thanks for watching, and loving mowing grass :)
Szívesen, köszönöm néz, szerető kaszálás fű :)
We are in the czech republic... you could search for Simon at "The scythe shop" if you google that, or there are other instructors in the uk. Regardless of what you cut you will eventually need to peen, with anvil or peening jig the edge of the blade, it might be just once a year or after every hour or so of mowing, the effectivness and ease of mowing is greatly improved by keeping it sharp and peening is the best thing for a scythe to keep the edge strong and in good condition, if done well. :)
Personally there is quite a difference between the flat and pointed anvil (which we use) the guide and support do help for a beginner but I don't personally use them, they never existed when I started. The Pointed avil, turning the blade over and using a flat hammer IMHO do make it easier and more acurate to peen, combined with the sanding block to clean everything so you can actually see each hammer blow, definitly helps to learn and be precise. :)
маладес уста кыргыстанда"?
Thanks for the instructional video,found it very interesting indeed,all the best to you.
Hi @Snurdgerbly to Whet I believe originates from their being water and the stone actually being wet. This is achieved by storing stone in the whetstone holder on your belt. I know there are exceptions when with other sharpening methods, perhaps a steel rod (forget what its called) for a kitchen knife you wouldn't use water, but honing in the field (as I understand) isn't one of the exceptions. So you need water, stone should be wet. It works better, stone doesn't become clogged.
:) Not automatically you do need to have additional skill and some considerations how to fix it, but its definitely do able. The most simple repair is to bend back or flatten folded metal, but in combination with a file and then different hammer action its possible to pull and shape the metal. But I've done it myself in a really nice way on someone elses rally damaged blade and was supprised by the results, but I couldn't do it 4 years ago. I do have a video of the process from that blade, I'll
Hi. Do you mean that peening with a peening jig is more difficult than it seems in the video? At least, in the video seems very easy.
@@SarrujandePalombera_Cantabria I don't think that was what I meant in the comment, which is 7 years old :) I guess I was replying to someone else about how to repair blades, which depends on the damage can be more difficult if your not yet accurate with the hammer, and perhaps in such a case if your not yet accurate them the blade might get more damaged instead of less... But yes the peening jig is pretty easy to use, but the results arn't as good as the free hand method if you put in the time to practice which is required, but also not imposible or that difficult.
I think its not a hardness thing, as our blades are 47RC but still malable, hammers and anvils are at least 55 RC. I'm not an expert but its more connected with the malableness of the metal, not just the hardness. :) Thanks for the extra info about how it went :)
Thanks for indulging my question.
I made a little experiment to see if the knife, soft that it is, is ductile enough for peening. Basically, I just tried to hammer a dent into the metal. Since it was vary hard to make a dent, I've concluded that the knife would probably crack if I tried to deform it significantly. Back to "plan A".
Blades intended to be peened, I guess, are made very soft, and rely entirely on work hardening for edge retention.
Thanks again
@ZachreyCA Sounds like you need to hit a little harder perhaps, or and repeat along the blade the process more times with each cap. You could also try just peening the very edge with the free hand peening method to help you move up to free hand peening and get better results without risking too much damage etc. Good luck
I don't think you need to remove all the laquer for peening jig method, for the free hand anvil method having things clean is really important.
Thank you, from New Zealand. This has been very helpful. I will have to find a short log to mount my anvil .
That little hen likes being around him, hunting for bugs.
Спасибо за урок! Очень важное сравнение готовой к кошению косы с гитарной струной . Такая же равномерная шероховатость по режущей поверхности клинка. Только в таком состоянии коса очень хорошо работает. Учился работать с джигом по Вашему видео. Спасибо ещё раз.
@Snurdgerbly Yep language is important and also interesting for me, what and how we say things, as everything started with the word/thought :) Thanks again for the kind comments and encouragement. I often notice similarities between Czech words (not my native language) which my wife through familiarity has over looked (her native language), which provoke thought about something or other and are interesting.
this video is absolutely impressing.
Все отлично объяснил. А отбойник вообще супер! Спасибо!
I got an ad for a string trimmer while watching a scything video - both have to do with mowing. I guess if I get too frustrated with the scythe I can go get a trimmer. I love everything about the scythe: human powered, no moving parts - nothing to break / maintain except peening and honing. No smells, no ongoing costs, nothing to replace over my lifetime (possibly a snath or handle) - something I could bequeath to my grandkids. Anyway, I alluded to being frustrated because I just filed out a couple little tears and repeened it and honed it, but it doesn't work now. I'm trying to figure out what I did / am doing wrong.
Its differcult to say without a picture, feel free to email me at me@kosimesnadno.cz and I'll take a look. Otherwise its probably not so sharp, and perhaps the angle has changed on the snath ?
There are many different styles of Austrian or other blades... this particular blade is just more curved. There are advantages and reasons for it being made like that, it can be made lighter and stronger as the different shapes all hold tension which gives it the rigidity it needs with out being massive and heavy. This is in comparison with the English/American stamped blades or low quality Austrian imitations which tend to be straight/flat and heavier to compensate. Hope this answers yr Q ? :)
Many thanks for the video, very helpful.
One question. Because of the delay in the sound on the video it is difficult to see weather your whetstone motion is rubbing towards the sharp edge or running off the sharp edge. Does that make sense?
Lovely little video, thank you! Lots of fine details there that I haven't seen elsewhere. New sub!
Great video, thanks. I have peened my blade using a peening jig and then sharpened using the stones. It is still not cutting very well though. Would this mean it needs more peening or more sharpening with the stone? Without seeing my blade it is probably difficult to comment. I am just unsure how long I should be spending peening and then sharpening. I have spent at least 1/2 hour peening thus far and given it a good sharpen and yet it still does not cut great. Of course this could be my technique!
As you say difficult to say, without looking at it. And of course you can't tell from 30 minutes of peening, as you don't know what condition it was in when you started, or the effectiveness/quality of the peening jig, etc etc... So basicly if its not sharp after peening then its not been peened enough :) The honeing with a whetstone is really just touching it up, and unless your using a file you might not be able to do much to improve things with the honing if its not well peened.
Have you seen the "Thumb test" video, and tried scapeping you loose skine across, not along the blade to listen to the sound it makes, how much it grips your finger.?
On a new blade it still takes me about 1hour, depending on length of course... and I'd suggest most people need at least 2 hours free hand peening.
Perhaps your using a very light hammer ?
Thanks for this mate, will be looking for a nice piece of wood and will be getting making this... going to need two pieces of wood as both my partner and i use the scythe lol
Thanks for this instructional video, it is absolutely great!
Thanks for the comment...its always a plus when people like your videos :)
Excellent video, thank you. A couple of questions if I may, I noticed you started peening from the centre of the blade ,was this just for the purpose of the demo or is that what you would do in practice. Also after peening would you then sharpen the blade with a whetstone before use.
Thank you, Max
@ndudman8 ...and you haven't forgotten the name of the steel rod; it's variously known as a sharpening steel, or chef's or butcher's steel, or simply, a steel. Keep up the good work, and keep honing your craft. It's what being human is all about.
I'm guessing, don't be offended please, but that your edge isn't as thin as it could be, as it shouldn't be necessary to apply much pressure to only remove the bure. Although I know what you mean about those diamond files they are much nicer and keep sharp. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the nice comments, yes I started in the middle mainly for the video, most important is that you process the edge in an even and consistent way, so its best to start at one of the ends. After using the peening jig, you definitely need to find the bur created by pushing the edge against the metal post and remove this IMHO results from the jig don't match those I, or other practiced people can get with the free hand peening method. Have a great time mowing :)
Very good instruction mate! Greets from Austria.
Wolfgang Markus Gstrein chuk noris...
Very informative, thank you
your welcome
@TimberTroll Thanks for the nice comment, pleased it has helped, am trying to think of a few more videos to make when time allows.
great and precis explanation. thanks a lot!
Great video and explanations! Thank you!
your welcome, happy it helps.
Great video!!!thank you for it!!
Great video, well done. Would you think that peening is appropriate on a billhook too? If so would the peening jig work for it?
Thanks. The billhooks I've seen and own are too thick so reallyl need grinding like an axe. But perhaps yours is thin like a scythe ?
Thank You very much for this very informative Tutorial
Instructions from a pirate. Shiver me timbers
I'd forgotten about this video, and my old disguise :) took me a minute to understand the comment, then I really laughed :)
I'm curious about alternative uses for the peening jig
I have a modern production Sabatier carbon-steel chef's knife that's pretty soft. I suspect that it's well short of its hardness potential, and over the past decade, sharpening has made that final bevel rather large. It is time to refine the bevel, and rather than file off the shoulders, it seems to me that I could refine it by peening, which would have the added benefit of work-hardening the steel.
Am I talking total nonsense?
@lonestarhomestead Happy to share, I know what its like to not know yet how to do something :) Thanks for the kind words, and best of luck with your grass and garden.
First of all bang any damage flat again gently, then you need to think how much damage needs filing away, gently to avoid any further damage. Oh and pick up those stones if you can to clear the garden for next time :)
Sorry can't other any more advice via chatting, as we must prepare now for a course today, and the sun is out finally here.
Possibly ? I've never tried or thought about peening a knice. The peening jig is less acurate, and won't AFAIC do as good a job as the free hand method with hammer and anvil (in the hands of someone with practice) So i'd guess you still better off using the water stone wi the knife.
Very informative, Thank you!
Thanks for the comment, It encourages me to add some more videos soon. :)
@ndudman8 I think I may be getting into scything too much....I just went out at 11pm to do it because I worked out it was the optimum time to do it.... no clouds, it'd just rained earlier, and it's best to cut when the grass is wet, and it's cold, so you've got decent light from the moon, though i added a head lamp in there too, don't overheat like during the day and no annoying sounds or people gawking.
no problem, with the free hand peening its generally going to be better results. Just for information, I never use this method, just show how it could'would be done, I do the free hand way, show in the other videos. Thanks for the comment :)
@penn707 Thanks for the nice comments, always encourages me to make more and try my best to make them better.
Will peening repair slightly damaged blades? My blade as a couple of small folded edges I would like to fix. One edge is a slight tare, and the other one is bent and appears not to have any tare. Thank you for your response
There is a lot more to correctly sharpening a scythe than I thought.
Parla italiano !
excellent video I enjoyed this.
Excellent !
this is so smart way to tap it
To WHET is to make keen or to sharpen, as in "to whet one's appetite". A whetstone is a sharpening stone; it need not, in every case, be wet.
Great video. I'm new to scything and just got my equipment this last Thursday. What business are you referring to and where is it located?
Thanks, and nice to see more mowers getting inspired and excited about the power of such a simple toool. Our webshop is located in Czech republic... but there are other simular shops in USA, UK, France, Canada, AU. Where are you closest too...
@@ndudman8 Ah yes indeed. I bought mine from Scythe Supply in Perry, ME USA. I was really curious to how this is done. I have been doing a lot of reading about it. Thank you for this. I unfortunately glued my upper handle backwards. Any tips on how to remove the glue? 🤣😖🤕
@tangocolt02 No problem, pleased to help... the scythe is a wonder of the world... I love my one.
@ndudman8 I'm just an old pedant. All craft skills call for a fine understanding of the proper method, and language is no exception. I love to see (and hear) the right words used well, and cringe at carelessness. We humans are crafty buggers, after all; it's what defines us. In order to use words well, one needs to understand their full meaning. True, whetstones are generally used wet, but I wonder if the word "whet" is onomatopoeic. Think of the sound it makes on the scythe blade.
Don't forget to remove the burr created by pushing the edge against the post during using the peening jig. Use a file gently or a caurse whet stone to hone the edge until u can't feel the buur with your nail. Don't give up :) Or better still finish the very edge with a good hammer and anvil as shown in other videos.
Good luck and don't give up, you'll get it :)
I often wonder about the burr. If you leave it shaped/facing the right way/right angle towards the grass, then it's as sharp as the blade behind it. Why not then just let the GRASS remove the burr, while the burr does the cutting!!
I am looking forward to seeing the video. Thank you!
I will give it a try. Thank you very much.
Thanks!
great, thanks a lot. Very instructional.
How do you feel about using a regular peening anvil vs one of the more advanced anvils with guides and a small ridge for the edge to rest on?
Hi, my name is Detlef and I am a German. we in Germany don`t know a peening Jig. But I think that with this tool it is much more easier to sharpen the scythe. Where I can get one?
Yes it is easier, however the result isn't as good as with free hand peening with practice. Its a good comprimise though if you don't or can't invest in the time to learn free hand peening. We do sell them at our shop in czech kosimesnadno.cz... or the UK at TheScytheShop and I'm sure there are places in germany as well, sorry don't remember off hand.
И коса качественная и отбойник хороший, и обьяснение толковое...
He speaks English but you can click on cc below screen on the right hand side and there are Czech subtitules. His wife.
וולודיה וואָלאָדיאַ popusi rus....
Thanks brother
Lovely video. I'm watching it again and still enjoying it a year later!! Can I ask, how do you START with a new blade, that couldn't be called 'blunt' but has a thick slab of a spine about 2mm thick where the blade should be?? Do you file it all down to a deep band (1cm back into the blade)? Or do you start coarse peening immediately??
I have spent easily 12 hours trying to peen the damn thing down with both peening 'caps' I got from ye. I may have eventually put little dents into the 'no. 1' cap, from belting the blade harder and harder to flatten it. I have also spent a lot of time filing it, and sadly to say, have had more success sharpening it by filing. I am at a loss. When I get a chance I think I will just come over from Ireland to ye for one of yere courses, and bring my useless blade with me to see what I'm doing wrong!!
I've not had to do it myself, but yes I would take a file or grinder and remove/flatten the edge out... my question though is what type of blade comes in that condition (Quality?) or gets that thick from use ? Either way grinding is a way to thin it down so that peening even makes any difference :) It could be that the material is just not flexable, you might find that out once you've thined it a little. The cheap, rusian, or even worst EU (chineese) blades are less flexable (RU), or unusable (EU). Good luck
"KOCA No.7" on sticker and embossed on the metal is "RUSS'A 10".
If there is any problem for you by me posting this info here please delete, no problem
@@Sionnach1601 No problem posting any comments as long as they are Polite :) I don't know much about all the different types of blades etc, but I'd guess yours is Russian, and from what little I know about russian blades is they tend to be a little softer, but less flexable. Definitly in a differenc class to moder EU blades (Chineese), so don't give up... is it a new or old blade ? Which ever way try grinding it down a little thiner and have a go at peening :)
@@ndudman8 It was brand new, bought from a guy in Galway.
I have it "edgey", like plenty sharp enough to saw through meat but it doesnt have that leaf sharp thinness i see from yours after peening.
I'll see how I get on with it now, but am beginning to think I might just come over for one of yere courses and buy a proper Austrian one off ye and an anvil as well.
Thanks very much again for the replies :)
@@Sionnach1601 Peening well, and keeping the really sharp, for me makes all the difference, and something I know we all can transform our mowing with. It still brings a smile to my face when its so easy. I'm sure there are courses etc in the UK. but your more than welcome to attend one of our's, we have a course on 3rd August. I do it in English, while my wife translates, usually turns out by the end of the course that many of the czech people have learnt English on the course as well.
Do I need the other anvils or is the jig kit enough sir?
Great thank you very much! Tried peening and did not get a very good result, turns out I was beating the shit out of the poor thing when I need to be very gentle.
А я бы вставил пружинку внутрь или даже резинку (ластик) . Удар получится с оттяжкой и видно будет вмятинку.
@tangocolt02 Sounds great... I try to get up early in the morning 5am or cut late in the evening... but hadn't thought of cutting by moon light, YET. :)
Also,i hit a rock this morning and put a pretty good size ding on my blade, how do i remove the ding? I need help asap
nice and smart with easyl thanks
Yes. thats very interesting, thanks.
I would buy this peening jig. Where can I buy?
Like from Lithuania ........
For reference and to compile what I consider to be the most effective scythe peening videos on youtube, I have compiled a few of your peening videos into one. If you would rather I hadn't of done this I can give the compilation to you and delete it from my channel. Whatever you are happy with is fine with me. Thanks, Peter Gilbert, Rooth, New Brunswick, Canada
Would a peening jig work for a sickle as well?
thank you very much
I think I damaged the base of my jig. It was flat but now it’s bevelled. Not sure how to reset it!
Kind of depends on the quality and condition, a good idea would be to approach the seller... the lower quality ones can get damaged more easily... but of course everything can be destroyed :) Sorry I can't help more.
ndudman8: After you're finished peening, how do you get the peening jig out of the log? Does it easily come out? or is there a special tool to get the jig out like a crowbar?
What metal is made ? Did it myself , or bought in the store ?
+Олег Мед these are Austrian scythe..
+ndudman8 Can you give me this to send to Ukraine ?
What's the problem with using a wet stone that's not wet?
The water is lubrication, and to keep the pores of the stone clean and free, so they work better.
e sine sa mai vezi meseriași simpli cu invenți păcat că tehnologia modernă înlătură aceste lucrări!!!
This would be a great way to put a edge while forging.
Jharkhand men kahan milta hai mujhe Lena hai kina prise hai on line mil Sakta please comment me
I'm wondering if I might have inadvertantly created a curl on my blade. I was peening and experimenting with changing the height of the (see if I can describe this properly) the height of the ribbed side of the blade above the edge I was peening. Anway, I've mowed probably 10 times now and mowed some larger areas and was doing quite good. But I messed the edge up, so I filed it a bit and repeened it. I can't really tell what's happening. I've gotta put some glasses on / look more closely. I just go along and hope it's doing what it should. Anyway, I can't mow now. So. I guess I'll just try a few more things - make sure I'm level left and right. Maybe adjust my feet height with some thin boards, if needed. Is there an easy way to look at how the sharpened edge comes off the blade? I guess, you're saying, it should come off straight?
This generally happens when you peen too far away from the edge, before you've got good and consistant at peen the very edge only, making sure that all the hammer blows are joined, and of course that you don't hit one place more than once. Again if you have pictures send them to me@kosimesnadno.cz and perhaps I'll have another suggestion, best of luck with sorting it out.
Super kind, ndudman8. I'm mowed a couple days ago and it started rough. But somehow sharpening made it get better. Sharpening with the stone in the field. I had just put some nicks in the blade and attempted to file and peen it back, but had messed it up. Then after awhile and after thinking about your videos, I went and peened it again. Putting my glasses on to try to actually see what was happening. And then it got a lot easier. Still could be better, I'm thinking, but back to reasonable. I mowed like 8 32 gallon trash cans that I'm using as mulch for the garden / material for the compost bin. Just wanted to say thank you. Also, do you sell scythes / sickles. I have a scythe (ditch blade) but now I want a sickle, maybe. I don't want to spend more than I need to (so I probably won't get it) but I watched you mowing with a long grass blade and I want one of those now. I'll for that though. But I do have a bunch of raspberries I want to mow around so they don't get overcrowded and get vines all over them. Sorry, that was so long winded.
Its very nice of you to say... although I know there are other people around who know a great deal, but thanks for the nice words.
We do have it for sale at mowingwithease d o t com
I cant seem to get a decent edge on my blade.
Dove comprare questo atteso?
why the blade is "balooned" ? like it can hold water, why not make it plane?
It's curved that way because the swinging motion of most people is also slightly curved in shape - by matching the curve, the scythe gets an even cut.
Veri gud. gud men.
Where i can buy this peening Jig?
Scythe Supply if you're still looking