Good video. It helped save me a lot of time as I had the same issue. One tip: If you are electrically inclined and follow appropriate safety precautions you don’t have to wait 5-6 weeks to get the part, install it, put everything back together to see if you got the correct part and it will work. Just jumper (bypass) the thermal overload with jumper wire(s) and carefully power up the oven to see if power is restored and the oven display comes on. DO NOT use it this way! Remove the jumpers and store the oven until the part comes in. This just helps one know that one has found the correct faulted part.
Got it back from the death! My oven is up and running again. Thanks a lot, did exactly what’s on your video, spare part bought at Amazon and today I’ve reassembled it. Working fine!! Great and useful video!
Watched your video and successfully fixed my Breville BOV845 toaster oven. I bought the SF214E JET216C thermal fuse from Amazon. The hardest part was putting all the screws back in. Thank you for posting this most helpful video. It saved me from buying a new toaster oven. I spent $11 on parts ($6 for 5 pak of those fuses and $5 for pak of crimp connectors) vs. $280 for a new toaster oven. Thanks again.
Mine would only work with a well-timed slap on one side for several years. I opened it up, and it turns out the two upper connectors on the PCB going to the heating elements had developed a black corroded layer. Some contact cleaner, wire brushing, and di-electric grease resolved the issue.
Thanks for the tip. Mine also works after a gentle slap on the right side (facing the oven). I wonder if I have the same issue as you. My symptom was that the unit was powering on (LCD panel lit up) but the heat didn't come on. This occurred after a couple of months of the on/off switch not acting reliably; I'd sometimes have to push it two or more times to get the heat kicked on. I have read elsewhere that folks have inspected the PCB for thin or broken solder traces and after touching them up, issues were resolved. It seems the PCB is fairly cheaply made. Also in the "quick fix" department: Other folks have resolved the on/off issue by using a paper towel to clean the thermostat (a small bulb-shaped device at the far rear of the oven, on the oven interior frame just a couple of inches rearward from the thermal fuse. You can see it in this video, it's just not mentioned.)
My wife and I watched this and both feel it is a good tutorial. Also the thermal fuse has a temperature rating on it. Ours was marked 216 degrees centigrade. Make sure you get the correct temperature as well. There are many different ones. JET216C is what we had and got. They are dirt cheap.
"January 19th the day before crazy man gets into office." 🤣 You couldn't have been more correct OMG. If we could've skipped time from when you made this to when I watch it, wouldn't we have veg better off! Thanks for video, I will see if I have same problem.
I had an issue on my BOV800XL where the bottom elements were not heating so thought they needed to be replaced and used your video to help with teardown. But turns out that removing the PCB board and looking on the back, I noticed one of the solder joints was missing some solder. I wonder if the heat of the oven caused the solder to melt away. So I added some solder and it works again! Thanks for your video on how to open up and get access to the circuit board
Need help replacing the bottom heating element…. Your video was helpful in disassembling the unit….. kept watching trying to find how the heating element connects so I can remove it & replace with the new one that I have. Can you help?
We had one very similar to these, the BOV845. It came with a 1 year warranty. 14 months later the thermal fuse burned out and had to be replaced. Breville wanted $180.00 "just to look at it". Found a replacement thermal fuse for $8.00 on line at a parts house and addressed the problem myself. Then 6 months after that the temperature sensing rod went out. Tore the POS apart again to replace that. It then worked for 8 months when the circuit board cooked itself and the replacement board was "discontinued by the manufacturer".. Conclusion.. I will NEVER purchase another Breville product again.
Mark, thanks for your comment. We have one of these with an issue. The toaster works, but when using anything else it heats up and eventually shuts off as the timer doesn't seem to work. From what you mention it sounds like the temp sensing rod could be the culprit? What symptoms did you have when that went out? Could you use the toaster, but no other functions? TIA,
Thank you for your info. First, I'm female (shuch ladies). I am not mechanically sound but can make a dinamite loaf of bread which my HUSBAND can't do, so the playing field is level). I got real lazy since covid began. I normally clean my oven 2-3x a year. So yeah, its been too long. I sprayed the oven down with Sam's grill and over cleaner in the evening and went to bed. The next day it was dry so I sprayed it again AND doused the heating elements. Oh what a mess I had. Normally I only wipe the heating elements down. This time I hit them up. After I got everything cleaned up, after I used foaming glass cleaner and rinsed everything off, I decided to dry the oven off and went to program some heat. The oven didn't turn on. Hubby messed with it and he thought since I used wet on it, maybe he would dry out the inside with a hair dryer. IT WORKED!!! I have the oven ON to dry up any residue as we use our oven every day. I can't give up my oven. I make bread in the BIG oven along with turkey. Everything else goes in the "easy bake" oven including POUNDS of ribs each year, thus the mess. Thank you for your post. Happy we didn't have to pull BETTY CROCKER apart and I can make muffins to go with breakfast!
I called Breville and they merely said E05 means a 'non resettleable component". That means nothing. But common sense tells me it's a fuse or in this case the thermal fuse. Thanks for the excellent video and I'll be trying to get it fixed. I was told by Breville I had to send it to them to be ''''diagnosed"...does that mean that their E codes are nonsense? Yup. I hate being chumped. Thank you for this excellent video, especially the idea of taping the screws in the feet once they're removed.
Good video but a bit lengthy. Just to add my 2 cents, I followed this repair and the only correction to this would be is that all the screws on the back and bottom are identical only screws that are different and needs to be marked are the screws in the feet. Those are different in type and length. Remove all the back screws, the feet and 2 screws one on each edge between the feet. Great video had mine up and running in about 30 minutes or so. Thanks so much for the video! PS sorry some how this posted with my sons account.
HI, my machine stopped working yesterday after about 18 months. Plugged in, no display, nothing. Thank you very much for the video! I will try to fix it. Hopefully I could see "HI" from the machine 😂😂. Great video, thumbs up!!!
Big thumbs up for crazy man comment. Thermal fuses usually fail having never reached the rated temperature. Works out great for appliance makers & landfill owners.
Hi! I too have a Breville toaster oven and when I opened it to see if I could repair it, I found a large piece of what appears to be asbestos. Its located near the wiring in the control portion. In your video and others I have watched, the asbestos is not there. Our unit, according to Breville, was manufactured in 2012. What do you suggest the average homeowner do? I have contacted Breville and their customer service person knew nothing about it but told me she would ask around and call me back. I'm still waiting. Thanks.
If you're refering to the soft, white padding between the oven and the control section, that's heat insulation and needs to be carefully tucked back in place when you close up the oven. Not sure why it doesn't appear in all the pictures I have seen of the inside of this oven; maybe it was not used on every model made during every year.
Soft solder typically has a melting point range of 90 to 450 °C (190 to 840 °F; 360 to 720 K), and is commonly used in electronics, plumbing, and sheet metal work.
Need assistance: I have a Breville Smart oven that stopped working today - I checked the thermal fuse and it seems to be ok. The front digital panel lights up and switches settings (power is getting to the board) BUt the elements do not heat up nor the convection fan does not come on. - Whats next to look for the damage component. Thank you
My timer quit working and found out today that the latch inside on the lower left had broken off. By any chance you know what that part/part number is called? I was hoping it's an easy fix like i've seen in the videos but seems like I need a part replacement. If I can only figure out what it is called.
Both the OP LearningChords and I are wrong about the amp rating of the thermal fuse. It apparently does not matter what the current rating for the thermal fuse is. Within reason of course. The thermal fuse does not open due to excessive current draw but passively melts and open circuits when the TEMPERATURE exceeds he thermal limit for a certain amount of time. So it does not matter if the thermal fuse is rated at 10A or 15A as both can handle the full 1800 Watts of power from the 120Vac power line. One consequence of this thermal fuse performance envelope is that the fuse is placed inside a white fibrous thermal blanket of mineral insulation that protrudes into the oven cavity. It is important to make sure sufficient fiber is surrounding the thermal fuse as the open circuit temperature of the fuse is significantly below the operating temps inside the oven cavity. If you find your oven is melting these one shot fuses frequently, then make sure to pack extra white fiber around the fuse before installing a new one. There should be no direct metal contact between the thermal fuse and the oven walls. The wall of the oven gets much hotter than the open circuit temp of the fuse. when toasting or broil is selected.
This was very helpful! I have the back off of mine now, getting ready to see what part number I need and go from there. But your comments on numbering the parts and screws was VERY helpful. I'm sure I would never get it back together without doing that since there were so many screws! I also wrote down the order in which I took the parts off because mine is a slightly different model. The feet were on additional brackets that run from front to back on each side. Hopefully I will get the part before I totally forget how to put it back together. Thanks again!
Just fixed my oven! Yay! Mine was a BOV450XL model. Initially bought the wrong fuses (glass ones), but was able to return via Amazon and get the right ones. I used crimps bought at the hardware store - they called them 'Butt Connectors'. My mistakes: I forgot to mark which side the fuse was facing when I first took it out. However, I vaguely remembered that it the words on it were upside down, so I thought the fuse had been facing AWAY from me, and it turned out to be accurate! (Which was amazing, for me, given that nearly a month went by from when I took apart the machine and when I finally put it back together!) My second mistake: Buying the wrong fuse (I was antsy to get it that I bought it before taking my old one out). Thus, bought a 10 amp GLASS fuse first, by accident. Third mistake: I crimped on the new fuse before putting the insulation sleeve back on - whoops! So I had to pull one of the crimped sides apart to put the sleeve back on. Naturally, I pulled out the side where the sleeve couldn't easily fit on and still allow me to reconnect the fuse - not enough space. So I had to, with great difficulty, cut apart the various cords/wires that were clamped together with a zip tie - I didn't really have the right tool, no needle nose wire cutter, only a 'fat' one, so that was tough. Once I released those cords, I had a lot more room in which to work and slide on the insulation sleeve. Needless to say, I've never fixed anything like this. I was (and still am) VEEERRRY proud of myself! Thank you so much, LEARNINGCHORDS - could not have done it without your video!
Thank you for your instructive video. My Breville is working, but if it did stop working, I know that I will be following your video. By the way, check the major electronic distributors for the thermal fuses. I checked. Allied price is $1.50 per fuse.
I need to perform a similar, if not identical repair, but I'm quite clueless when it comes to many of the basic techniques mentioned here. Specifically when it come to crimping the lug and customizing it what tool(s) and method(s) did you use? Would it be sufficient to crimp using pliers or a hand crimping tool? Or would you say this requires a hydraulic crimping tool? Also what did you use to trim the excess "O-shaped" part of the lug? Thanks for the video and any response you might be able to add to the above questions.
@@cavanova Did you ever receive a response to your question regarding crimping the lug? And how to trim the excess 'o-shaped' part of the lug? Thanks so much!
Thanks for the video. Our oven is about 8-9 years old and died tonight. Fixed our microwave twice through TH-cam videos so figured I look up the oven and found your video. I ordered the part which will arrive Friday. Hope this is the issue!
thanks for sharing. Mine had the top heating elements not working and the door spring broken. I have to admit that it's quite a bit of work to put this thing back together.
I have the same oven and it broke just yesterday exhibiting the same problem - does not power on. Can you elaborate more on the thermal fuse that you replaced? or what is the part number? I need help making sure I find the right one especially since you say temperature and amps are critical.
Thank you for your quick reply. I thought that since I have the same model oven that you fixed, the thermal fuse would be the same. Breville wants to charge $99 for repair which is more than half this oven's retail price.
Model BOV845BSS. Fan noise or fan stops working. Issue is due to outer fan blade rubbing against oven side panel. Remove bottom right leg and unscrew screws that hold right panel where fan is Use large screw driver to slightly bend right panel away from outer fan blade You will not be able to reapply all screws because you want to avoid having the side panel touch the outer fan blade. Reattach the bottom right leg
Hi I have a Breville Mini smart Oven and the thermal fuse assembly part SP0010484 is not available anywhere. Please advise what's the compatible one and where to order it from? Thanks
picked up a similar oven today at auction for a few pound, wont power on .. seems to have had a fall, dented foot/corner, just chasing a triangle screwdriver to get the outer cover off, hoping its something I can locate :/
Breville could have made the thermal fuse easily accessible without pulling the entire back off, but they would rather you send the unit back to them for a charge.
@@LEARNINGCHORDS Correct me if I'm wrong.. isn't the fuse replacement to restore power in total or does that trip out if there's a faulty part (element) too. (Obviously I am inexperienced and not considering DIY fix just figuring on cost if these units break down as indicated?)
There is a spring to return the oven door to closed. It may break or more likely will come off the tab that keeps the spring under tension. Unlike your garage door, this spring is small and safe for you to reattach. It is on the right side when facing the open oven.
Could you post a link to the MFG in China to allow others to make the purchase? This is a great video and I will try to get it posted on Amazon to steer others here. There are far too many people who have had this happen and reading Amazon reviews have prevented ME from buying this oven but think now it is a much safer bet:-) THANK you for giving so many people an option. I never would have felt safe buying this if I hadn't found this. It is on sale for just $199.00 today for the Red one so guess I will hit that order button now! GREAT work....
In the video you say and show the leads on your multimeter, what setting were you using on the multimeter? I haven't the same problem but want to make sure that the thermal fuse is the culprit.
Amazon has them. And now I see that you have links. Only the top one works now. However the fuse in my toaster oven was not 172 C but rather 192 C. Those are also available on Amazon.
Yes, except the fuse is located under a bunch of insulation and you will have to dig it out. Instead of removing the bracket you can just lift the two tabs on the bracket and the fuse will pull out easily
I have a Breville BOV800XL. When I plug it in, the display operates normally. The oven does not heat up at all, though. Could this still be a thermal fuse problem? In your case, the display did not light up when plugged in initially. Any help greatly appreciated.
I can't believe that I had a GE toaster oven for decades! It worked perfectly, but a couple years ago I decided I needed a new Breville. WRONG! On Christmas day, while rushing to complete my dinner, guests were waiting to eat, My Breville toaster oven quit working! Such junk! I can't even believe I have to go through all of this. And the silly thing is that I had kept my old GE until a few weeks ago when I gave it to a person in need.
lesson learned.. never give to a person in need, because soon you will be that person in need LESSON 2... no guests during the pandemic. you are being punished for that! lesson 3- Breville too expensive
What confuses me is that the thermal fuse you pulled is rated 10A or 1200 watts at 120Vac, while the appliance is rated at 1800W total power consumption. That is a very big difference and I can't recall any toaster oven with a power rating below 1500 watts. No way the IC controller and power circuit board is burning up more than 50 watts in total.So it is hard to say why the big difference in the thermal fuse power rating and the overall power consumption by this oven. The difference is 600 watts or 5 A. According to the nameplate power consumption, a 15 A thermal fuse is the correct part for this oven to meet that spec. BTW, my unit lost power to the lower heating elements and a simple inspection of the main power circuit board revealed a burned through lower heating element connector tab. Simple repair with a solder iron but the problem may return in the future as burned up connector tabs usually mean a poor design on the main power board. In fact the main power board is very thin and shows signs of manual rework by Breville to resolder the various heating element connector tabs. Overall this is my first and last Breville small appliance as it was expensive and build quality (especially internals) is poor. Also Breville parts ordering is impossible from Breville and the parts are expensive compared to other small appliances.
Thanks for the video. I have the time and skills to repair the 800XL, but I decided to send it to recycle haven. I replaced it with a $34 Oster. I will never purchase another high priced toaster oven again of any brand, since they all fail and no one stands behind their junk. Thankfully I only paid $140 for my original Breville - they had upgraded me to the 800XL oven when their smaller 1st oven failed within a year. Then the 800XL oven convection fan failed - I tried to contact Breville and got no response, and the part was not available at the time. We continued to use it until it totally died last week due to the fuse issue I'm sure. From now on I'll stick to buying a $34 toaster oven each year if needed.
The older less expensive toaster ovens are electro-mechanical and do not contain any IC chips, LEDs or backlit LCD displays. Because these components do not like heat and are placed inside a very hot metal box, they frequently fail at great cost to the consumer. The cheaper toaster ovens have wiring and a mechanical thermostat that simply switches on and off due to thermal expansion. I have one that has lasted thirty years and my Breville lasted 3 months past the warranty cut-off.
@@dsweedler I am on my 4th Breville in 10 + years. Cooking -wise, we love them, they're great, best toaster ovens ever, and way better cooking results than the old nichrome wire coil /mechanical thermostat type. Our original has a damaged lower heating element (over-active house cleaner) that I'm fixing, and will donate. We gave a Compact to our son for his first college apartment, where it has lasted through multiple moves and multiple roommates, put one in our vacation rental, where it gets used - a lot - and an 850XL in our new house. We've had no electronic failures, or any other kind. Here's my theory: we have whole-house surge protectors in all the homes we've owned for the last 20 years, and I had my son put a surge protector on his. (We also use local surge protectors on our computers and home theatre equipment). The electrician that sold me the first one said (with a wink) he was glad they're not required by code, because he makes so much money adding them on. The bill was under $200 and it took less than 30m to install and test. Neighbors, friends all have had fairly regular breakdowns of their electronics, short light bulb life, until they had surge protectors installed. Then, miraculously, those kind of problems go away. Modern appliances = toaster ovens, microwaves, stoves, dishwashers, washers/dryers, anything with a display panel, all are loaded with digital microelectronics and as a result are sensitive to power surges.
“You could shock yourself, you could kill yourself. If you don’t know what you’re doing with electronics, don’t attempt it”. Well that dissuaded me from the very beginning. One would assume that if the unit is unplugged, this would be a non issue. I’m a 70 year old woman. I’ve repaired a washing Machine, a Refrigerator, a dryer, a dishwasher and I’m still alive. But I’m no Electrician. I’m a nurse. I guess this goes directly into the trash because no one wants blood on their hands
Good video. It helped save me a lot of time as I had the same issue. One tip: If you are electrically inclined and follow appropriate safety precautions you don’t have to wait 5-6 weeks to get the part, install it, put everything back together to see if you got the correct part and it will work. Just jumper (bypass) the thermal overload with jumper wire(s) and carefully power up the oven to see if power is restored and the oven display comes on. DO NOT use it this way! Remove the jumpers and store the oven until the part comes in. This just helps one know that one has found the correct faulted part.
Yup, I was thinking the exact same thing.
Got it back from the death! My oven is up and running again. Thanks a lot, did exactly what’s on your video, spare part bought at Amazon and today I’ve reassembled it. Working fine!! Great and useful video!
Watched your video and successfully fixed my Breville BOV845 toaster oven. I bought the SF214E JET216C thermal fuse from Amazon. The hardest part was putting all the screws back in. Thank you for posting this most helpful video. It saved me from buying a new toaster oven. I spent $11 on parts ($6 for 5 pak of those fuses and $5 for pak of crimp connectors) vs. $280 for a new toaster oven. Thanks again.
:)
Great video. Thermal sleeves are not shrink tubing. Thermal fuses have no polarity & can be reversed. Good to check body for any voltage leaks.
Mine would only work with a well-timed slap on one side for several years. I opened it up, and it turns out the two upper connectors on the PCB going to the heating elements had developed a black corroded layer. Some contact cleaner, wire brushing, and di-electric grease resolved the issue.
Thanks for the tip. Mine also works after a gentle slap on the right side (facing the oven). I wonder if I have the same issue as you. My symptom was that the unit was powering on (LCD panel lit up) but the heat didn't come on. This occurred after a couple of months of the on/off switch not acting reliably; I'd sometimes have to push it two or more times to get the heat kicked on.
I have read elsewhere that folks have inspected the PCB for thin or broken solder traces and after touching them up, issues were resolved. It seems the PCB is fairly cheaply made.
Also in the "quick fix" department: Other folks have resolved the on/off issue by using a paper towel to clean the thermostat (a small bulb-shaped device at the far rear of the oven, on the oven interior frame just a couple of inches rearward from the thermal fuse. You can see it in this video, it's just not mentioned.)
My wife and I watched this and both feel it is a good tutorial. Also the thermal fuse has a temperature rating on it. Ours was marked 216 degrees centigrade. Make sure you get the correct temperature as well. There are many different ones. JET216C is what we had and got. They are dirt cheap.
Thanks for the post! very quick and informative, nice job and it worked like a charm for me. (I’m a hero for a day 😊)
"January 19th the day before crazy man gets into office." 🤣 You couldn't have been more correct OMG. If we could've skipped time from when you made this to when I watch it, wouldn't we have veg better off! Thanks for video, I will see if I have same problem.
Veg? S/b "been"
You, sir, just saved my oven. Thank you!
Thank you for this.I just order the parts ,should be here April sometime.Well worth the effort and wait.Thank you again as I really like this oven.
Have fun!
this just happened to me today. Will be trying your fix! Thank you for posting!
I had an issue on my BOV800XL where the bottom elements were not heating so thought they needed to be replaced and used your video to help with teardown. But turns out that removing the PCB board and looking on the back, I noticed one of the solder joints was missing some solder. I wonder if the heat of the oven caused the solder to melt away. So I added some solder and it works again! Thanks for your video on how to open up and get access to the circuit board
That was exactly the problem I had. I also added some solder and the elements started heating up again. Thanks for this video and your comment.
Need help replacing the bottom heating element…. Your video was helpful in disassembling the unit….. kept watching trying to find how the heating element connects so I can remove it & replace with the new one that I have. Can you help?
i was fixing for a friend... I have not seen that unit it years
We had one very similar to these, the BOV845. It came with a 1 year warranty. 14 months later the thermal fuse burned out and had to be replaced. Breville wanted $180.00 "just to look at it". Found a replacement thermal fuse for $8.00 on line at a parts house and addressed the problem myself. Then 6 months after that the temperature sensing rod went out. Tore the POS apart again to replace that. It then worked for 8 months when the circuit board cooked itself and the replacement board was "discontinued by the manufacturer".. Conclusion.. I will NEVER purchase another Breville product again.
Mark, thanks for your comment. We have one of these with an issue. The toaster works, but when using anything else it heats up and eventually shuts off as the timer doesn't seem to work. From what you mention it sounds like the temp sensing rod could be the culprit? What symptoms did you have when that went out? Could you use the toaster, but no other functions? TIA,
Thank you man! Got the same problem. I’ll try to fix it next weekend. I do appreciate your time for doing this video!
Thank You. Was able to fix mine with this video. Part took nearly 2 months to come in, but less than $5 to purchase.
Thank you for your info. First, I'm female (shuch ladies). I am not mechanically sound but can make a dinamite loaf of bread which my HUSBAND can't do, so the playing field is level).
I got real lazy since covid began. I normally clean my oven 2-3x a year. So yeah, its been too long. I sprayed the oven down with Sam's grill and over cleaner in the evening and went to bed. The next day it was dry so I sprayed it again AND doused the heating elements. Oh what a mess I had. Normally I only wipe the heating elements down. This time I hit them up. After I got everything cleaned up, after I used foaming glass cleaner and rinsed everything off, I decided to dry the oven off and went to program some heat. The oven didn't turn on. Hubby messed with it and he thought since I used wet on it, maybe he would dry out the inside with a hair dryer. IT WORKED!!! I have the oven ON to dry up any residue as we use our oven every day. I can't give up my oven. I make bread in the BIG oven along with turkey. Everything else goes in the "easy bake" oven including POUNDS of ribs each year, thus the mess. Thank you for your post. Happy we didn't have to pull BETTY CROCKER apart and I can make muffins to go with breakfast!
sounds like you are a wonderful wife.. happy baking and cooking miss Karen
13:28 It doesn't matter which direction you install the thermal fuse. It's not a diode, just a fuse.
I called Breville and they merely said E05 means a 'non resettleable component". That means nothing. But common sense tells me it's a fuse or in this case the thermal fuse. Thanks for the excellent video and I'll be trying to get it fixed. I was told by Breville I had to send it to them to be ''''diagnosed"...does that mean that their E codes are nonsense? Yup. I hate being chumped.
Thank you for this excellent video, especially the idea of taping the screws in the feet once they're removed.
thank u
Good video but a bit lengthy. Just to add my 2 cents, I followed this repair and the only correction to this would be is that all the screws on the back and bottom are identical only screws that are different and needs to be marked are the screws in the feet. Those are different in type and length. Remove all the back screws, the feet and 2 screws one on each edge between the feet. Great video had mine up and running in about 30 minutes or so. Thanks so much for the video! PS sorry some how this posted with my sons account.
Yes a bit lengthy but the only video I could find on how to replace the fuse. Thank you my oven is back in service.
HI, my machine stopped working yesterday after about 18 months. Plugged in, no display, nothing. Thank you very much for the video! I will try to fix it. Hopefully I could see "HI" from the machine 😂😂. Great video, thumbs up!!!
Glad it helped
Big thumbs up for crazy man comment. Thermal fuses usually fail having never reached the rated temperature. Works out great for appliance makers & landfill owners.
Thanks for sharing
this was highly entertaining though not my exact problem. And yet, I couldn't stop watching.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO, IT COST ME 5 DOLLARS FOR THE FUSER , AND ONE HOUR OF LABOR I FIX IT, (THE RIGHT TO REPAIR)
Hi! I too have a Breville toaster oven and when I opened it to see if I could repair it, I found a large piece of what appears to be asbestos. Its located near the wiring in the control portion. In your video and others I have watched, the asbestos is not there. Our unit, according to Breville, was manufactured in 2012. What do you suggest the average homeowner do? I have contacted Breville and their customer service person knew nothing about it but told me she would ask around and call me back. I'm still waiting. Thanks.
close the oven and get rid of it
If you're refering to the soft, white padding between the oven and the control section, that's heat insulation and needs to be carefully tucked back in place when you close up the oven. Not sure why it doesn't appear in all the pictures I have seen of the inside of this oven; maybe it was not used on every model made during every year.
Soft solder typically has a melting point range of 90 to 450 °C (190 to 840 °F; 360 to 720 K), and is commonly used in electronics, plumbing, and sheet metal work.
There's no polarity for thermal fuses. i.e.- u cant install them backwards.
Thx! Not done yet. Of course the last screw refuses to come out so I'll usr my needle noses tomorrow. Literally the LAST SCREW😂
Thanks for the video. I have a BOV650XL and get an E05 error code. Anyone know which part needs to be replaced? Thank you.
Need assistance: I have a Breville Smart oven that stopped working today - I checked the thermal fuse and it seems to be ok. The front digital panel lights up and switches settings (power is getting to the board) BUt the elements do not heat up nor the convection fan does not come on. - Whats next to look for the damage component. Thank you
My timer quit working and found out today that the latch inside on the lower left had broken off. By any chance you know what that part/part number is called? I was hoping it's an easy fix like i've seen in the videos but seems like I need a part replacement. If I can only figure out what it is called.
google search.. look up the door latch and you should find a few sites with drawings and part numbers
Both the OP LearningChords and I are wrong about the amp rating of the thermal fuse. It apparently does not matter what the current rating for the thermal fuse is. Within reason of course. The thermal fuse does not open due to excessive current draw but passively melts and open circuits when the TEMPERATURE exceeds he thermal limit for a certain amount of time. So it does not matter if the thermal fuse is rated at 10A or 15A as both can handle the full 1800 Watts of power from the 120Vac power line. One consequence of this thermal fuse performance envelope is that the fuse is placed inside a white fibrous thermal blanket of mineral insulation that protrudes into the oven cavity. It is important to make sure sufficient fiber is surrounding the thermal fuse as the open circuit temperature of the fuse is significantly below the operating temps inside the oven cavity. If you find your oven is melting these one shot fuses frequently, then make sure to pack extra white fiber around the fuse before installing a new one. There should be no direct metal contact between the thermal fuse and the oven walls. The wall of the oven gets much hotter than the open circuit temp of the fuse. when toasting or broil is selected.
This was very helpful! I have the back off of mine now, getting ready to see what part number I need and go from there. But your comments on numbering the parts and screws was VERY helpful. I'm sure I would never get it back together without doing that since there were so many screws! I also wrote down the order in which I took the parts off because mine is a slightly different model. The feet were on additional brackets that run from front to back on each side. Hopefully I will get the part before I totally forget how to put it back together. Thanks again!
Just fixed my oven! Yay! Mine was a BOV450XL model. Initially bought the wrong fuses (glass ones), but was able to return via Amazon and get the right ones. I used crimps bought at the hardware store - they called them 'Butt Connectors'. My mistakes: I forgot to mark which side the fuse was facing when I first took it out. However, I vaguely remembered that it the words on it were upside down, so I thought the fuse had been facing AWAY from me, and it turned out to be accurate! (Which was amazing, for me, given that nearly a month went by from when I took apart the machine and when I finally put it back together!) My second mistake: Buying the wrong fuse (I was antsy to get it that I bought it before taking my old one out). Thus, bought a 10 amp GLASS fuse first, by accident. Third mistake: I crimped on the new fuse before putting the insulation sleeve back on - whoops! So I had to pull one of the crimped sides apart to put the sleeve back on. Naturally, I pulled out the side where the sleeve couldn't easily fit on and still allow me to reconnect the fuse - not enough space. So I had to, with great difficulty, cut apart the various cords/wires that were clamped together with a zip tie - I didn't really have the right tool, no needle nose wire cutter, only a 'fat' one, so that was tough. Once I released those cords, I had a lot more room in which to work and slide on the insulation sleeve. Needless to say, I've never fixed anything like this. I was (and still am) VEEERRRY proud of myself! Thank you so much, LEARNINGCHORDS - could not have done it without your video!
VERY GOOD JOB THERE MISS NEWMAN. I too am proud of you
Any advice: my function dial does work. Temp and Time both work when turned but function won't.
after i fixed this neighbor's toaster I never touched another one
Outstanding troubleshooting and repair, amigo... you're a genius!
Thanks, if someone else tries this you can order the fuse from Amazon and wait two days instead of 42.
Link to parts? Both fuse and clamps? Tia.
good advice. couple $ more, but it's worthwhile.
Thank you for your instructive video. My Breville is working, but if it did stop working, I know that I will be following your video. By the way, check the major electronic distributors for the thermal fuses. I checked. Allied price is $1.50 per fuse.
stay safe
I need to perform a similar, if not identical repair, but I'm quite clueless when it comes to many of the basic techniques mentioned here. Specifically when it come to crimping the lug and customizing it what tool(s) and method(s) did you use? Would it be sufficient to crimp using pliers or a hand crimping tool? Or would you say this requires a hydraulic crimping tool? Also what did you use to trim the excess "O-shaped" part of the lug?
Thanks for the video and any response you might be able to add to the above questions.
thanks very much!
@@cavanova Did you ever receive a response to your question regarding crimping the lug? And how to trim the excess 'o-shaped' part of the lug? Thanks so much!
Thank for the Video . It’s helpful . I thought it awesome if you could posted the link that how to buy or order the fuse . Once again thank you !!!👍👌👏
Wow patient or what, awesome, you did it.
Thanks for the video. Our oven is about 8-9 years old and died tonight. Fixed our microwave twice through TH-cam videos so figured I look up the oven and found your video. I ordered the part which will arrive Friday. Hope this is the issue!
thanks for sharing.
Mine had the top heating elements not working and the door spring broken. I have to admit that it's quite a bit of work to put this thing back together.
Glad it helped
I have the same oven and it broke just yesterday exhibiting the same problem - does not power on. Can you elaborate more on the thermal fuse that you replaced? or what is the part number? I need help making sure I find the right one especially since you say temperature and amps are critical.
Thank you for your quick reply. I thought that since I have the same model oven that you fixed, the thermal fuse would be the same. Breville wants to charge $99 for repair which is more than half this oven's retail price.
Model BOV845BSS. Fan noise or fan stops working. Issue is due to outer fan blade rubbing against oven side panel. Remove bottom right leg and unscrew screws that hold right panel where fan is Use large screw driver to slightly bend right panel away from outer fan blade You will not be able to reapply all screws because you want to avoid having the side panel touch the outer fan blade. Reattach the bottom right leg
There is no way I can repair my Breville toaster oven! i am pretty handy but I do have my limits 😂
Hi I have a Breville Mini smart Oven and the thermal fuse assembly part SP0010484 is not available anywhere. Please advise what's the compatible one and where to order it from? Thanks
I just finished replacing the thermal fuse harness after waiting six weeks for the part. I would have made a total mess of it, but for this video.
Thanks for this video! I will try this order that part me Cuisinart toaster oven stopped working it doesn't do anything.. thanks for sharing
picked up a similar oven today at auction for a few pound, wont power on .. seems to have had a fall, dented foot/corner, just chasing a triangle screwdriver to get the outer cover off, hoping its something I can locate :/
Breville could have made the thermal fuse easily accessible without pulling the entire back off, but they would rather you send the unit back to them for a charge.
they dont want user serviceable as it could be a legal liability- plus they prefer you buy a new unit
I have an 800 model. The lower heating element is not working. Do I need to replace the fuse as shown in this video, or just the element?
@@LEARNINGCHORDS Correct me if I'm wrong.. isn't the fuse replacement to restore power in total or does that trip out if there's a faulty part (element) too. (Obviously I am inexperienced and not considering DIY fix just figuring on cost if these units break down as indicated?)
My door keep falling down
There is a spring to return the oven door to closed. It may break or more likely will come off the tab that keeps the spring under tension. Unlike your garage door, this spring is small and safe for you to reattach. It is on the right side when facing the open oven.
I suspect mine is a thermostat because it turns on but wont heatup
i have a similar air fryer that has stopped working because door switch went out, any idea how to look it up to order one ?
google it.. parts are availabe
Could you post a link to the MFG in China to allow others to make the purchase? This is a great video and I will try to get it posted on Amazon to steer others here. There are far too many people who have had this happen and reading Amazon reviews have prevented ME from buying this oven but think now it is a much safer bet:-) THANK you for giving so many people an option. I never would have felt safe buying this if I hadn't found this. It is on sale for just $199.00 today for the Red one so guess I will hit that order button now! GREAT work....
In the video you say and show the leads on your multimeter, what setting were you using on the multimeter? I haven't the same problem but want to make sure that the thermal fuse is the culprit.
Thank you. Now my Emerson toaster bottom heating is not working. It is going to be fun..
be careful and aware and safe- if you can fix it good- if not- at least you tried...
Amazon has them. And now I see that you have links. Only the top one works now. However the fuse in my toaster oven was not 172 C but rather 192 C. Those are also available on Amazon.
Is this an electronically controlled oven toaster?
Yes.
Does thIs apply to MODEL BOV800XL?
www.ereplacementparts.com/breville-toaster-oven-parts-c-116052_116061.html
Yes, except the fuse is located under a bunch of insulation and you will have to dig it out. Instead of removing the bracket you can just lift the two tabs on the bracket and the fuse will pull out easily
what was the part number? just a 10 amp thermal fuse? 172-c?
You said you were fixing for someone else. Do you if the repair is still working?
Have ame problem with my BOV800XL, will try this solution. Thanks for shring.
good luck
Can you tell where it was exactly that you ordered your part from?
I have a Breville BOV800XL. When I plug it in, the display operates normally. The oven does not heat up at all, though. Could this still be a thermal fuse problem? In your case, the display did not light up when plugged in initially. Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks for a very detailed videos, mind had the same problem, but I don't think I can fix it my, because I'm not an electrician ☹
Im buy the smart oven air breville and just didn't turn on anymore help
I can't believe that I had a GE toaster oven for decades! It worked perfectly, but a couple years ago I decided I needed a new Breville. WRONG! On Christmas day, while rushing to complete my dinner, guests were waiting to eat, My Breville toaster oven quit working! Such junk! I can't even believe I have to go through all of this. And the silly thing is that I had kept my old GE until a few weeks ago when I gave it to a person in need.
lesson learned.. never give to a person in need, because soon you will be that person in need
LESSON 2... no guests during the pandemic. you are being punished for that!
lesson 3- Breville too expensive
Have this oven but my power button works on and off! I have to push it and push it to get it to work!
@@LEARNINGCHORDS I deal with it as it's an excellent product! One day I know it will quit completely. Do you know if these switches are replaceable?
Where do you get the crimps from?
any hardware store or home D or lowes
Use a butt connector
Hey I need one can I buy from you ??
saludos amigo tengo un error o codigo e05 que cree usted que me puede ayudar gracias
Good afternoon friend, my oven throws me an error code E05, can you help me
search google- i have no idea what code e05 is- it could be a bad thermostat or a bad outlet. try it on another outlet see if it happens there
@@LEARNINGCHORDS gracias
What confuses me is that the thermal fuse you pulled is rated 10A or 1200 watts at 120Vac, while the appliance is rated at 1800W total power consumption. That is a very big difference and I can't recall any toaster oven with a power rating below 1500 watts. No way the IC controller and power circuit board is burning up more than 50 watts in total.So it is hard to say why the big difference in the thermal fuse power rating and the overall power consumption by this oven. The difference is 600 watts or 5 A. According to the nameplate power consumption, a 15 A thermal fuse is the correct part for this oven to meet that spec.
BTW, my unit lost power to the lower heating elements and a simple inspection of the main power circuit board revealed a burned through lower heating element connector tab. Simple repair with a solder iron but the problem may return in the future as burned up connector tabs usually mean a poor design on the main power board. In fact the main power board is very thin and shows signs of manual rework by Breville to resolder the various heating element connector tabs. Overall this is my first and last Breville small appliance as it was expensive and build quality (especially internals) is poor. Also Breville parts ordering is impossible from Breville and the parts are expensive compared to other small appliances.
Please read my comment which I just posted, confirming your point.
Thanks for the video. I have the time and skills to repair the 800XL, but I decided to send it to recycle haven. I replaced it with a $34 Oster. I will never purchase another high priced toaster oven again of any brand, since they all fail and no one stands behind their junk. Thankfully I only paid $140 for my original Breville - they had upgraded me to the 800XL oven when their smaller 1st oven failed within a year. Then the 800XL oven convection fan failed - I tried to contact Breville and got no response, and the part was not available at the time. We continued to use it until it totally died last week due to the fuse issue I'm sure. From now on I'll stick to buying a $34 toaster oven each year if needed.
The older less expensive toaster ovens are electro-mechanical and do not contain any IC chips, LEDs or backlit LCD displays. Because these components do not like heat and are placed inside a very hot metal box, they frequently fail at great cost to the consumer. The cheaper toaster ovens have wiring and a mechanical thermostat that simply switches on and off due to thermal expansion. I have one that has lasted thirty years and my Breville lasted 3 months past the warranty cut-off.
@@dsweedler I am on my 4th Breville in 10 + years. Cooking -wise, we love them, they're great, best toaster ovens ever, and way better cooking results than the old nichrome wire coil /mechanical thermostat type. Our original has a damaged lower heating element (over-active house cleaner) that I'm fixing, and will donate. We gave a Compact to our son for his first college apartment, where it has lasted through multiple moves and multiple roommates, put one in our vacation rental, where it gets used - a lot - and an 850XL in our new house. We've had no electronic failures, or any other kind. Here's my theory: we have whole-house surge protectors in all the homes we've owned for the last 20 years, and I had my son put a surge protector on his. (We also use local surge protectors on our computers and home theatre equipment). The electrician that sold me the first one said (with a wink) he was glad they're not required by code, because he makes so much money adding them on. The bill was under $200 and it took less than 30m to install and test. Neighbors, friends all have had fairly regular breakdowns of their electronics, short light bulb life, until they had surge protectors installed. Then, miraculously, those kind of problems go away. Modern appliances = toaster ovens, microwaves, stoves, dishwashers, washers/dryers, anything with a display panel, all are loaded with digital microelectronics and as a result are sensitive to power surges.
“You could shock yourself, you could kill yourself. If you don’t know what you’re doing with electronics, don’t attempt it”. Well that dissuaded me from the very beginning. One would assume that if the unit is unplugged, this would be a non issue. I’m a 70 year old woman. I’ve repaired a washing Machine, a Refrigerator, a dryer, a dishwasher and I’m still alive. But I’m no Electrician. I’m a nurse. I guess this goes directly into the trash because no one wants blood on their hands
These things are GARBAGE. Second one broke, that's 2 broken in 4 years. Pathetic product, good vid on servicing this junk though
yep trash
Want to sell me one of those replacement parts?
These people do not speak loudly enough. I'm on a laptop and require earphones.
THANKS