@@RestoreIt not especially. If you were leaving it then it would be a trap for water and would be difficult to completely clean and dry it before paint. But you are grinding it back anyway. Welds look good. Penetration all the way round and not too much to grind back. Good work man.
Restore It From my experience doing this technique I would recomend tilting the gun a little bit more so that the hot metal sticks to previous dime much smoother (and luckily withou any holes).
@@RestoreIt it's only an issue when you're worried about pinholes in tanks and stuff, and if you taper off by moving quickly back over previous weld you can negate most of it- learned this at my current job lol
I'm an chassis welder from germany trained to weld on cars and i need to tell you my respect for youre work! Overlapping spotwelds is definitely the way to go on such thin sheet metal. Keep up the great work!
Been a mechanic for over 10 years now.. your way of welding is the best solution in my opinion.. lapping over metal is just silly, unless the metal is super thin.. :)
watching throughout these episodes of the restoration I have noticed that your confidence with the welding is getting better and look forward to the other epsiodes of this and you keep up the good work, and i like the little sick jokes you had in this one.
you need to strip away the galvanizing before you weld. Thats why your welds did not look good on the bottom side. It also can lead to Zinc poisoning from inhaling the galvanizing as it vaporizes while welding. All of the sudden you will feel like you have the flu out of nowhere and it will last for rest of the day. Ask me how i know:) Keep on learning and building!
Or as me i had a very hard time breathing, and really had to put effort in taken air in and it hurt like Hell, i went to doctor as i did not know what it was.. he told me i should have went to hospital, i had water in my lungs and could have died.. So its No joke, you can grind it of but look for white yelloish powder forming, that is zink oxides and dangerous. I often use galvanised plate in bigger pieces for corrosion resistance.
You are doing great work and learning fast, finally someone who's working on getting it right! Please remember to use weld through primer between layers of raw metal where you cant get to it with paint after it's welded
Thanks Vegard! I appreciate it. I know right I missed one. I'm kind of thinking it will be okay as I'm getting the car dipped and then Ecoated which should get into that area somewhat. I hope.
Remaking panels is a difficult job for sure, don't worry if they aren’t perfect. It is a profession on its own to do this correct, yours actually look good for an amateur. Also you have the right mentality towards it: "do it proper now rather than do it quick" and I think that's the most important part of a restauration.
try oscillating the torch in a quick circular motion while welding, you’ll get larger, flatter welds. Also leave a 1mm gap all round, you’ll get better penetration and flatter welds. For grinding, use a grinding disc to take the heads off, switch to 40 grit then 80 grit to blend with the surrounding panel.
I know I know, I reallt should. I'm still in the middle of building the workshop. I will decide very soon where I want it and drill the holes I promise!
Every single one of your videos blow me away, the dedication and craftsmanship is astounding!! Keep killing it man, you’re easily one of my favorite channels ❤️
Damn straight that we see an improvement in your welding. You motivated me to finally, after 4 years, rebuild my scooter engine. I destroyed the new crank today... but I am trying to keep it cool and remember that learning is one hell of a bitch... you lose money and time but the lesson is something you just have to experience on your own. Keep it up!
Well done mate. I was exactly where you are now years years ago when I was restoring my xr4i. Had to learn everything for myself including paint and welding. Just keep at it. Practice makes it perfect.
I saw somewhere that using a sooty flame (more acetylene than O2) from an oxygen and acetylene torch on your patch metal will anneal it and make it a little more pliable to shape. Might check into it. Supposed to stop creases from trying to form when bending. I think you turn one side completely black from the soot is how you know it’s annealed. Not sure - it was a long time ago when I saw it.
The mig wire leaves those holes as you pull away from the weld area, I had 13 years welding experience before leaving that field for IT for health reasons.
I'm not a welder, so any experts may feel free to correct me, but I would think once you have the tack welds in place, the rest of it should be a continuous bead rather than hundreds of tacks placed in succession. Honestly, if I were doing this for the first time, I'd probably overdo it on the tacks too, but I'd attempt to take up the practices I've seen pros do and try my best with a continuous bead after my second or third try. That said, what you've accomplished still works, so kudos!
Hey Tazar, thanks for the advice. I've tried the beads and it just gets to hot and blows through. I've found these overlapping spot welds to work best for me so far. We'll see what some pro say. They will be in the comments any moment :D
Yeah you can't continuously sheet metal you burn through and the heat build-up would warp all the panels.. he's doing the right thing he's using shielding gas. I am a certified welder but well out of practice
Thanks for the clarification, Jusb. @Restore It, see, I never would've considered beads getting too hot. Always good to learn justifications for actions. :)
Making the corners of your patch piece. and the hole rounded will alleviare some heat build up and warping. Start by drilling four holes in the corners and connect them to get th "soft corner" effect. Saw this on Trevs Blog
looking at your welds, either use more heat or less wire to find an inbetween, they're a bit proud, also you could have a little more gap between your panels so the weld actually falls into the slit. seems to be just gumming up at the top instead of falling into the crack.
@@RestoreIt get some metal join them together and just go ham welding it together, keep changing your settings, another good way is by sound, if there's delay between sparks and not cracking like bacon does u can adjust from that also, practice practice practice. You'll get it!
Your welding has come along way already, the little dimples in the weld I thought was a good sign of a good quality weld (I’m learning myself so don’t take my word for it) I’m really enjoying these videos and is the sort of work I’m caring out on my Cavalier. It has to be said that whilst lap joint are stronger they can cause distortion due to the extra heat you have to put into them to get good penetration, I’m like you though like the invisible repair method seems more professional and causes less problems for water to get into the seam in the future. Keep these videos coming. Steve.
The holes in the welds are caused by not keeping the wire nozzle in place after welding. Let the nozzle stay in place for a few seconds with the gas still flowing. This lets the weld cool a little slower, and keeps O2 from getting to the puddle. Almost all of my welding students had trouble with this at first. This trick also applies ti TIG welding. Hope this helps.
Thank you James! I don't have a seperate foot pedal for the gas. I will look into getting one. I think... the second I take my finger off the tricker the gas stops.
@@RestoreIt-- I think that if You play with that trigger button ,slowly, and listen to see if any gas comes out of the nozzle. Most MIG guns have a two step switch , the first step releases gas and the second starts the arc. Have fun, play with it.
Already gone from beginner to good. Being unhappy with your weld is the first step to being great, I was initially going to give you a crap about not reconnecting the spot welded rails.. good job on finishing 😄
The little holes are because of the wire feeding, try not to pulsate while Welding. Try to pull trough the seam in one step,then you have only one little hole at the end of the seam. It needs a little training to weld like this (to get a good result) without burning holes in the metal because its very thin. Btw great work as always. Greets from Germany
Thanks Luke! I will get some sheet metal and practice this seam welding. I'm always very worried it's going to blow through. But I guess it's a balance between Amps and wire speed and speed of movement. I'll give it a go :)
@@RestoreIt yes its only a Balance thing between these three things. The thicker the metal,the easyier it is to weld a nice seam in one step. After a few Minutes of Practice you will have good results.
Thin sheet metal heat warps fast pulling bigger welds through it. Body shop guys always use stitch welds to reduce heat and prevent warpage. Just because you can do it doesn’t mean you should
@@slowhand2241 Thats right. You dont need to pull it in one step and it dont make a difference of the strengh of the seam. And after grinding,nobody sees a difference
Hi. As for holes in welds, at first try to change the angle of weld gun. In many cases the correct welding angle is the key to better welds. And it is the answer to why the welds got worse when you where welding from outside. If the welding does not improve by experimenting with welding angle, try circular motion at the end of tack weld.
Clean welding! much better as the prev episode ones. Maybe the holes in the spots are because you don't remove the flux wire right after the fussion occurs?? (just a theory). Keep it up man!
To grind welds in seconds, go and buy shank tungsten carbide burrs, it would just eat through welds and save you a ton of time + you can choose different shapes and sizes.
My man is an absolute ANIMAL LMAO. Penetrating every hole he can get his hands on, hahahaha fuck. Good shit man. Love watching the progression! Been a die-hard viewer since your very first video on here, much love man.
If you have the time to learn, try TIG welding it, might save you a lot of grinding as you can get the welds a lot flatter, also try putting more tacks on before you weld, it will hold the plate more and prevent it from pulling and over lapping.
Yeah some of them do get pricey like, low amp DC ones aren’t to bad but if you do get one AC/DC is the way to go, weld anything with it. Great project by the way, looking forward to the outcome.
Awesome job man! I also have an E30 and one day I hope I will do all the body work and welding by myself. Thanks for all the tips and tricks. Greetings from Croatia! 😉
Thanks dude. Yes I think next episode I will do that. I have a pressed panel coming for that area so I need to double check it worth me using sheet metal or not. The neck's just fine. I was worried for about a day as it ached ever so slightly, but I woke up the next day just fine thankfully. Thanks for asking :)
The reason a weld builds up tall is because there’s not enough heat for it to flow out. Maybe try the next setting up on the welder. You’ll obviously get better penetration too. Mug welding is about bending the correct ampage with the correct wire feed for the parent metals. Have you tried getting some 2mm sheet n then starting off on minimum ampage n watching what happens? It will mount up on the surface. Then go up settings until you get to max n see how it starts to drop through the sheet and sits underflush on the surface. Play around and observe and analyse the results. Good work though dude. Going to be a great car.
I m learning Stick welding and i learned to use lower ampers on tiny metal and use lowest amps. That weld machine have and it doesn't melt the metal but its harder to start weld when your are not welder
Nice, man.. Keep practicing and you'll get the perfection. Although successful, I have the feeling you''re pulsing the weld a little too short. Check for penetration, the pulses should be about 1/2 to 3/4 of a second, depending on settings, so it has time to melt it together. Avoid lap welds whenever possible for obvious reasons, as you discovered. Don't be shy to hammer on dolly the welds a bit to let them relax and restore shape as they always pull a bit. With the dolly behing, when you hit they get thinner and longer for a fraction, counteracting the pulling. Metal is a wanderful thing to work with. Other than that, thumbs up for you! =) I have a rebuild project waiting for me too, very soon.
You can use some Aluminium or copper/Brass behind to absorb the heat. This is handy for holes or large gaps and also using more heat for better penetration.
Getting there. I would use more tacks, before starting to weld. I usually tack every 2-3cm. I weld one gap between the tacks and then skip 5-7 gaps, and weld one gap again. I walk around like that. I also try to start my "bead" on the tack and finish it on previuosly laid weld. I use hard grinding disc to roughly grind my welds - but i keep grinder steady, to grind only the bead, not the metal around it.
@@RestoreIt inside the factory just use regular paint , look what's on the inside of your modern car the only difference is it might have a couple of tar pads or the modern equivalent..the biggest worry going forward is the coating that you have done underneath will creep under those spot welds and protect and not cause another rust issue like the OEM causing a moisture trap
When removing rush from and area of metal, even after cutting it out .. treat the metal with Phosphoric Acid. It will make sure the chemical process is neutralised permanently. Great job btw .. im loving the series and about to do this to a MK1 escort.
Against shrinking it also might help to (in my practice) cut oval or circle pieces out for butt welding. Instead of square replacements. Helps also to form them better beforehand. Oval/circle pieces tend to warp more evenly. I also recommended in last of your video, and again - getting sheet metal nibbler for cutting such pieces out. I am not a professional either. So don't take my recommendation as only truth. :) Luck!
Thank you Corpy. I forgot the whole rounded corners thing this time round which was just an oversight. Next time I will try to remember :) I have been looking at nibblers.. I'll get one now screw it! Thanks man I appreacite the help as always.
its normal for the panel to warp when welding theres not really any way to stop it, just hammer it back and cool it down, welds are definitely improving though a lot better than some welding ive seen, also i always use a bright torch facing the area im welding so i can see it when my mask is on, but make sure that the torch isnt bliding you or your hand obstructs the light
You do great Work, and yes that repair you said was bad, it was bad and showed exactly why we but weld such Places as it collects salts, water and crap in those overlaps and rust starts, looks like they did not cut all the old rust and old rust always comes back, so your repairs is much better.
Think you have done really well. Dont forget most of the factory made pieces were pressed out on a machine not hand made. Wish I had all your equipment when I was your age.
Hi in one of your videos you was going to use some pins to hold a plating I believe the Cleat pins in the US could you tell me what they are under in Spain or England so I could get a set thanks a lot Pete
I thought the pin holes in the welds were from not enough shielding gas coverage. Maybe try turning up the gas a little and hold the gun more upright and when you stop welding don't pull the gun away, leave it in position for a second or two because there is still gas coming out. Just some suggestions, I'm not an expert myself. Good video
Молодцы парни, не торопитесь, учиться что-то делать никогда не поздно! С одной стороны хочу увидеть быстрее результат в виде готовой машины, с другой стороны хочется больше реставрации.
@@RestoreIt Im no welder by any means lol, I am a cnc machine programmer but after talking to a welder here, he had told me to clip the end of the wire each time you start a weld. Either way, you're doing a great job!
Im a fabricator, so my opinion might be a lil too much work but i would try to bevel any pieces you custom make so the weld lays in flatter then you can grind flush, also try to turn your heat down and drag your welds instead of spot welding, tack the corners so it doesnt pull too hard
I love that you're showing us the good and bad. Great job. I love watching how you're improving, too.
Thanks Fracture! Much appreciated :)
lap welding also creates a gap where moisture and rust get started.. atleast imo :) nice videos keep it up
Thanks man. I also thought this was the case.
The small holes in the welds are formed as the weld cools down. It sticks to the metal around it and then shrinks as it cools from the outside in.
Oh interesting, is it a bad thing?
@@RestoreIt not especially. If you were leaving it then it would be a trap for water and would be difficult to completely clean and dry it before paint. But you are grinding it back anyway. Welds look good. Penetration all the way round and not too much to grind back. Good work man.
@@RestoreIt If you have a thinner welding wire you can do more continuous welds and you will not those holes in the spot welds.
Restore It From my experience doing this technique I would recomend tilting the gun a little bit more so that the hot metal sticks to previous dime much smoother (and luckily withou any holes).
@@RestoreIt it's only an issue when you're worried about pinholes in tanks and stuff, and if you taper off by moving quickly back over previous weld you can negate most of it- learned this at my current job lol
Enjoying this project so much, currently restoring my own e30 at the moment and i am learning bits from these videos. Keep it up man.
Thanks Brendan! Good luck on the project!
I'm an chassis welder from germany trained to weld on cars and i need to tell you my respect for youre work!
Overlapping spotwelds is definitely the way to go on such thin sheet metal.
Keep up the great work!
Been a mechanic for over 10 years now.. your way of welding is the best solution in my opinion.. lapping over metal is just silly, unless the metal is super thin.. :)
Great to hear this Landinius!
watching throughout these episodes of the restoration I have noticed that your confidence with the welding is getting better and look forward to the other epsiodes of this and you keep up the good work, and i like the little sick jokes you had in this one.
you need to strip away the galvanizing before you weld. Thats why your welds did not look good on the bottom side.
It also can lead to Zinc poisoning from inhaling the galvanizing as it vaporizes while welding. All of the sudden you will feel like you have the flu out of nowhere and it will last for rest of the day. Ask me how i know:)
Keep on learning and building!
Thank you Dan. I will order some bear steel tomorrow if they are open :)
@@RestoreIt Good choice, zinc poisoning is not pleasant.
Or as me i had a very hard time breathing, and really had to put effort in taken air in and it hurt like Hell, i went to doctor as i did not know what it was.. he told me i should have went to hospital, i had water in my lungs and could have died.. So its No joke, you can grind it of but look for white yelloish powder forming, that is zink oxides and dangerous. I often use galvanised plate in bigger pieces for corrosion resistance.
Been there, done that...
@@RestoreIt what do you mean by "bear steel" ?
You're welding is improving. Better than some of welding I've seen on TH-cam which we call "Bird shit" welding. Wait! WHAT?! LOL
Thanks Malclom! You're giving me the confidence I need! haha...
@@RestoreIt Just look up a video called "Welds of Sema" if you need to feel better about yours.
You are doing great work and learning fast, finally someone who's working on getting it right! Please remember to use weld through primer between layers of raw metal where you cant get to it with paint after it's welded
Thanks Vegard! I appreciate it. I know right I missed one. I'm kind of thinking it will be okay as I'm getting the car dipped and then Ecoated which should get into that area somewhat. I hope.
Remaking panels is a difficult job for sure, don't worry if they aren’t perfect. It is a profession on its own to do this correct, yours actually look good for an amateur. Also you have the right mentality towards it: "do it proper now rather than do it quick" and I think that's the most important part of a restauration.
I coudn't agree with you more Timo! Thanks for the nice comment and thanks for watching.
The sound of you welder sounds much better, hitting the right temp and wire feed! Great work!!! Really getting there!
Thank you dude! I'm glad I'm actually improving and not just stagnating :)
try oscillating the torch in a quick circular motion while welding, you’ll get larger, flatter welds. Also leave a 1mm gap all round, you’ll get better penetration and flatter welds. For grinding, use a grinding disc to take the heads off, switch to 40 grit then 80 grit to blend with the surrounding panel.
Thanks for the adivce Phils! Good idea using the grinding disc first. I will try this.
Bolt your vise down to a solid bench! It will make your life much easier when shaping metal...
I know I know, I reallt should. I'm still in the middle of building the workshop. I will decide very soon where I want it and drill the holes I promise!
Bolt that bench grinder down too 😉
@@RestoreIt You can use C clamps in the meantime. Works especially well with the vice on the corner.
Every single one of your videos blow me away, the dedication and craftsmanship is astounding!! Keep killing it man, you’re easily one of my favorite channels ❤️
Thank you Downtime! That means a lot. Loads more to come this year.
Damn straight that we see an improvement in your welding. You motivated me to finally, after 4 years, rebuild my scooter engine. I destroyed the new crank today... but I am trying to keep it cool and remember that learning is one hell of a bitch... you lose money and time but the lesson is something you just have to experience on your own. Keep it up!
Well done mate. I was exactly where you are now years years ago when I was restoring my xr4i. Had to learn everything for myself including paint and welding. Just keep at it. Practice makes it perfect.
Thank you ferdiyurdkul! I will keep going until I can't go any more :)
This is one of my favorite channels. The whole," fuck it I'm doing it" mentality is great. This is how we learn. This is how we get better.
Looking very good. Don’t beat yourself up. I am enjoying seeing the progress, yours and the cars.
I saw somewhere that using a sooty flame (more acetylene than O2) from an oxygen and acetylene torch on your patch metal will anneal it and make it a little more pliable to shape. Might check into it. Supposed to stop creases from trying to form when bending. I think you turn one side completely black from the soot is how you know it’s annealed. Not sure - it was a long time ago when I saw it.
This is very interesting. The patch was black on the back because some of the undercoating caught on fire. I will look into this. Thanks James.
Nothing more satisfying than doing the job right!
The mig wire leaves those holes as you pull away from the weld area, I had 13 years welding experience before leaving that field for IT for health reasons.
Thanks Mynsxt6! I'll try some seam welding to see if I can reduce that.
That looks more like porosity and I think he's using flux core. I didn't hear any gas.
I'm not a welder, so any experts may feel free to correct me, but I would think once you have the tack welds in place, the rest of it should be a continuous bead rather than hundreds of tacks placed in succession. Honestly, if I were doing this for the first time, I'd probably overdo it on the tacks too, but I'd attempt to take up the practices I've seen pros do and try my best with a continuous bead after my second or third try. That said, what you've accomplished still works, so kudos!
Hey Tazar, thanks for the advice. I've tried the beads and it just gets to hot and blows through. I've found these overlapping spot welds to work best for me so far. We'll see what some pro say. They will be in the comments any moment :D
Yeah you can't continuously sheet metal you burn through and the heat build-up would warp all the panels.. he's doing the right thing he's using shielding gas. I am a certified welder but well out of practice
Thanks for the clarification, Jusb.
@Restore It, see, I never would've considered beads getting too hot. Always good to learn justifications for actions. :)
Making the corners of your patch piece. and the hole rounded will alleviare some heat build up and warping. Start by drilling four holes in the corners and connect them to get th "soft corner" effect. Saw this on Trevs Blog
Thanks Joel! I'll try to remember to do that next time.
Great to see you taking the advice and improving your work.
Thanks man :)
Getting alot better. Keep up the hard work
looking at your welds, either use more heat or less wire to find an inbetween, they're a bit proud, also you could have a little more gap between your panels so the weld actually falls into the slit. seems to be just gumming up at the top instead of falling into the crack.
Thanks Nick. I will keep this in mind for next time.
@@RestoreIt get some metal join them together and just go ham welding it together, keep changing your settings, another good way is by sound, if there's delay between sparks and not cracking like bacon does u can adjust from that also, practice practice practice. You'll get it!
4:32, love your sense of humor 🤣
This E-30 gets so much care and persistence, so much effort... dare i say love... I am getting all jealous in here.
Haha it really does wear the trousers in our relationship...
@@RestoreIt "marry Her/Him/It". Don´t let any woman dfrive you apart.
Your welding has come along way already, the little dimples in the weld I thought was a good sign of a good quality weld (I’m learning myself so don’t take my word for it) I’m really enjoying these videos and is the sort of work I’m caring out on my Cavalier. It has to be said that whilst lap joint are stronger they can cause distortion due to the extra heat you have to put into them to get good penetration, I’m like you though like the invisible repair method seems more professional and causes less problems for water to get into the seam in the future. Keep these videos coming. Steve.
your welding is getting really good
I literally wait until my phone gets a notification to let me know you’ve uploaded! Best restoration videos I’ve come across! Keep up the great work!
Good job mate. You're getting better all the time.
The holes in the welds are caused by not keeping the wire nozzle in place after welding. Let the nozzle stay in place for a few seconds with the gas still flowing. This lets the weld cool a little slower, and keeps O2 from getting to the puddle. Almost all of my welding students had trouble with this at first. This trick also applies ti TIG welding. Hope this helps.
Thank you James! I don't have a seperate foot pedal for the gas. I will look into getting one. I think... the second I take my finger off the tricker the gas stops.
@@RestoreIt-- I think that if You play with that trigger button ,slowly, and listen to see if any gas comes out of the nozzle. Most MIG guns have a two step switch , the first step releases gas and the second starts the arc. Have fun, play with it.
Great improvement buddy and hats off to your dedication and willingness to learn 👍
Hot tip bro. when you run a series of dime tacks, direct the weld away from the corners, reduces warpage. This all look heaps better man good work!
Thhat little joke in middle made my day😅😁😁😊😊
Good to hear this :D
For some reason this is so satisfactory
Excellent!
Already gone from beginner to good. Being unhappy with your weld is the first step to being great, I was initially going to give you a crap about not reconnecting the spot welded rails.. good job on finishing 😄
Thank you Jusb!!
Your welds are really improving. Keep at it! Love your channel!
Just watching this build really makes me happy, great job !!
Reading comments like this really makes me happy so thank you Karim! Thanks for watching!
The little holes are because of the wire feeding, try not to pulsate while Welding.
Try to pull trough the seam in one step,then you have only one little hole at the end of the seam.
It needs a little training to weld like this (to get a good result) without burning holes in the metal because its very thin.
Btw great work as always.
Greets from Germany
Thanks Luke! I will get some sheet metal and practice this seam welding. I'm always very worried it's going to blow through. But I guess it's a balance between Amps and wire speed and speed of movement. I'll give it a go :)
@@RestoreIt yes its only a Balance thing between these three things.
The thicker the metal,the easyier it is to weld a nice seam in one step.
After a few Minutes of Practice you will have good results.
Thin sheet metal heat warps fast pulling bigger welds through it. Body shop guys always use stitch welds to reduce heat and prevent warpage. Just because you can do it doesn’t mean you should
@@slowhand2241 Thats right.
You dont need to pull it in one step and it dont make a difference of the strengh of the seam.
And after grinding,nobody sees a difference
Hi. As for holes in welds, at first try to change the angle of weld gun. In many cases the correct welding angle is the key to better welds. And it is the answer to why the welds got worse when you where welding from outside. If the welding does not improve by experimenting with welding angle, try circular motion at the end of tack weld.
Clean welding! much better as the prev episode ones. Maybe the holes in the spots are because you don't remove the flux wire right after the fussion occurs?? (just a theory). Keep it up man!
Thanks Mauricio! I'm using solid core now :) But yes I think I need to keep the torch there for a little while longer.
Awesome work! Just keep going - you have nearly half a million subs so clearly you are doing a lot of things right 👍
Your getting good at this, nice work mate!
To grind welds in seconds, go and buy shank tungsten carbide burrs, it would just eat through welds and save you a ton of time + you can choose different shapes and sizes.
My man is an absolute ANIMAL LMAO. Penetrating every hole he can get his hands on, hahahaha fuck. Good shit man. Love watching the progression! Been a die-hard viewer since your very first video on here, much love man.
you never stop inspiring me perseverance is the key and boy you got it
RESPECT
Thanks Dan!
Great work! Can't wait to see all the rust holes gone!
Thanks dude, me either!
If you have the time to learn, try TIG welding it, might save you a lot of grinding as you can get the welds a lot flatter, also try putting more tacks on before you weld, it will hold the plate more and prevent it from pulling and over lapping.
Great advice about more tacks thanks man. I really want a TIG they just cost too much.
Yeah some of them do get pricey like, low amp DC ones aren’t to bad but if you do get one AC/DC is the way to go, weld anything with it. Great project by the way, looking forward to the outcome.
Awesome job man! I also have an E30 and one day I hope I will do all the body work and welding by myself. Thanks for all the tips and tricks. Greetings from Croatia! 😉
Thanks Mario! Glad to hear you will also be saving an E30. Good luck with it and thanks for watching! :D
Every tool it's a hammer
This is true.
Great job on the welds, you've improved a lot!
You've really improved. Nice job my man.
Thank you Jan!
nice work i have e30 coupe and im working on a engine swap now and i have 1 little spot with rust and your video is helping me to how to do it good
Thanks! I'm very glad to hear this.
Glad to see that you have uploaded a new video, are you planning to close the large hole in the driver's foot well any time soon?
BTW, how's the neck?
Thanks dude. Yes I think next episode I will do that. I have a pressed panel coming for that area so I need to double check it worth me using sheet metal or not.
The neck's just fine. I was worried for about a day as it ached ever so slightly, but I woke up the next day just fine thankfully. Thanks for asking :)
@@RestoreIt great to hear (read) that
Really enjoying your videos, m8. Keep it up.
You are doing a really good job!! Hope BMW will see this and help you out with parts
Thanks dude! Oh that would be too good to be true haha.
The reason a weld builds up tall is because there’s not enough heat for it to flow out. Maybe try the next setting up on the welder. You’ll obviously get better penetration too. Mug welding is about bending the correct ampage with the correct wire feed for the parent metals. Have you tried getting some 2mm sheet n then starting off on minimum ampage n watching what happens? It will mount up on the surface. Then go up settings until you get to max n see how it starts to drop through the sheet and sits underflush on the surface. Play around and observe and analyse the results. Good work though dude. Going to be a great car.
Nice improvement in the wields! Good joob, keep it coming 😉
Mate one suggestion, when you are tap welding do it in the corners , you welds will be much better and they will look much better.
Who else keeps looking when is he uploading next video?
I will get faster this year I promise!
I’m doin same thing now except on the rocker panels. No lap welds for me either. You and I are both getting better at welding thin metal.
Love watching your videos partner, seeing you grow and improve as well as learning at the same time is sweet. Keep it up man, and good luck!
Thank you Joey! As long as I keep receiving lovely comments like this one I have no plan of stopping :D
I wish video was more longer
but nice video 👌
Well mate, you have good welding progress. Try to keep the gaps between the welding parts to a minimum, but in any case you have a really good step.
Thank you Ozzy! Some people say my problem is that the gap is too small. But I think I just need to find a good 1mm to 2mm all the way around.
@@RestoreIt I think, 1mm should be fine, and shape it all gaps in one size. Any way, you move it right direction. Good luck man.
I m learning Stick welding and i learned to use lower ampers on tiny metal and use lowest amps. That weld machine have and it doesn't melt the metal but its harder to start weld when your are not welder
Nice, man.. Keep practicing and you'll get the perfection. Although successful, I have the feeling you''re pulsing the weld a little too short. Check for penetration, the pulses should be about 1/2 to 3/4 of a second, depending on settings, so it has time to melt it together. Avoid lap welds whenever possible for obvious reasons, as you discovered. Don't be shy to hammer on dolly the welds a bit to let them relax and restore shape as they always pull a bit. With the dolly behing, when you hit they get thinner and longer for a fraction, counteracting the pulling. Metal is a wanderful thing to work with.
Other than that, thumbs up for you! =) I have a rebuild project waiting for me too, very soon.
Love watching an artist.
Your a perfectionist that will listen. As you ask for advice. I call that a Master.
You can use some Aluminium or copper/Brass behind to absorb the heat. This is handy for holes or large gaps and also using more heat for better penetration.
Getting there. I would use more tacks, before starting to weld. I usually tack every 2-3cm. I weld one gap between the tacks and then skip 5-7 gaps, and weld one gap again. I walk around like that. I also try to start my "bead" on the tack and finish it on previuosly laid weld. I use hard grinding disc to roughly grind my welds - but i keep grinder steady, to grind only the bead, not the metal around it.
A good thick coating like truck bed liner on the inside, will reduce noise and hide the repair
I agree something like this will have to go down at some point. I need to research what's best and most like the factory one.
@@RestoreIt inside the factory just use regular paint , look what's on the inside of your modern car the only difference is it might have a couple of tar pads or the modern equivalent..the biggest worry going forward is the coating that you have done underneath will creep under those spot welds and protect and not cause another rust issue like the OEM causing a moisture trap
сколько еще серий про три заваренные дырки будет.?
Столько, сколько нужно, парень
@@RestoreIt вай дядя ты русски язык понимаешь?!)👏👏👏
When removing rush from and area of metal, even after cutting it out .. treat the metal with Phosphoric Acid. It will make sure the chemical process is neutralised permanently. Great job btw .. im loving the series and about to do this to a MK1 escort.
Awesome progress! I'm also learning to weld on my E36. Pretty nerve-racking on a car you don't want to mess up on!
Against shrinking it also might help to (in my practice) cut oval or circle pieces out for butt welding. Instead of square replacements. Helps also to form them better beforehand. Oval/circle pieces tend to warp more evenly. I also recommended in last of your video, and again - getting sheet metal nibbler for cutting such pieces out. I am not a professional either. So don't take my recommendation as only truth. :) Luck!
Thank you Corpy. I forgot the whole rounded corners thing this time round which was just an oversight. Next time I will try to remember :) I have been looking at nibblers.. I'll get one now screw it! Thanks man I appreacite the help as always.
Very nice work ! I'm impressed with the quality of work !
its normal for the panel to warp when welding theres not really any way to stop it, just hammer it back and cool it down, welds are definitely improving though a lot better than some welding ive seen, also i always use a bright torch facing the area im welding so i can see it when my mask is on, but make sure that the torch isnt bliding you or your hand obstructs the light
You do great Work, and yes that repair you said was bad, it was bad and showed exactly why we but weld such Places as it collects salts, water and crap in those overlaps and rust starts, looks like they did not cut all the old rust and old rust always comes back, so your repairs is much better.
Think you have done really well. Dont forget most of the factory made pieces were pressed out on a machine not hand made. Wish I had all your equipment when I was your age.
Hi in one of your videos you was going to use some pins to hold a plating I believe the Cleat pins in the US could you tell me what they are under in Spain or England so I could get a set thanks a lot Pete
A pleasure to watch
Glad to hear this Milan.
I thought the pin holes in the welds were from not enough shielding gas coverage. Maybe try turning up the gas a little and hold the gun more upright and when you stop welding don't pull the gun away, leave it in position for a second or two because there is still gas coming out. Just some suggestions, I'm not an expert myself. Good video
Try alternating in click wise fashion which will help with the warping
Молодцы парни, не торопитесь, учиться что-то делать никогда не поздно! С одной стороны хочу увидеть быстрее результат в виде готовой машины, с другой стороны хочется больше реставрации.
Hey dude will you do an episode on how to restore a car interiors (fixing cracks and panting) I mean dashboard/ door cards ..
I think the little pits are from not clipping the tip of the wire off each time you start and stop welding but im not 100% sure
Interesting. When spot welding you're not meant to cut it each time right? On tack welds, I cut it each time and they seem fine so you might be right.
@@RestoreIt Im no welder by any means lol, I am a cnc machine programmer but after talking to a welder here, he had told me to clip the end of the wire each time you start a weld. Either way, you're doing a great job!
Nice work in this video.
Thank you Adrian!
Looks far better than the lap welds, I prefer butt welding when it's possible. Are you using a gas or gasless mig?
The little holes from the mig weld are from the spool wire coming out hot, it's very common.
Okay cool thanks Matthew!
@@RestoreIt np
What is that tool you use at 13:22? I got to have one too
its a large rotarty tool. And the pad is a Roloc finish pad :)
Another satisfying video.. Greetings from Turkey :)
Thank you Numan :)
Very good job . " Be Seeing You " !
You need to connect the welds while they are still red hot that way you wil have a consistent weld!
Im a fabricator, so my opinion might be a lil too much work but i would try to bevel any pieces you custom make so the weld lays in flatter then you can grind flush, also try to turn your heat down and drag your welds instead of spot welding, tack the corners so it doesnt pull too hard
Great job. It’s fun to follow.
Thanks John. I'm glad you're enjoying it.
Valsac Garage, you can get whole floor panels, and weld them
Amazing work dude!