Also make sure your timing tab corresponds with the harmonic balancer timing mark. I had a goodwrench 350 from Jegs 5 years ago that I tried to get running good...motor came with 2 oclock timing tabs you bolt on (either for the 6 or 8 inch balancers). Here is what they DONT tell you...in the mid 70s- late 80s most SBC engines had factory 12 oclock timing tabs welded on the water pump...with 12 oclock balancers. I bought a new DAYCO oreillys balancer for that engine, not knowing that it was a 12 oclock balancer (which is factory OEM). Set it at TDC mark, mechanic helped me fire it up to break it in and she just wouldn't fire. He went and moved the spark plug wires one spot counter clockwise and she started up and ran good...but I always thought something wasn't right with that motor, ran like the old dog 305 it replaced. Plus some plug wires were kinda stretched. Eventually put some headers on it to help with exhaust flow. But after 4 years I replaced the wires, and forgot to mark the wires. Tried to run it in the correct spots on the cap like everybody else has, rotor pointing to the #1. Motor couldnt run. After verifying with my finger in the #1 plug hole, the damn balancer mark was WAY to left, facing a 12 clock position, and rotor facing 3 oclock. After researching this on the internet, all I did was pull the distributor out and repositioned it to face the #1 cylinder and put it back in. And she purred like a kitten! Then placed the vacuum advance to FULL manifold vacuum, and had to adjust the idle a bit. Man that 82 C10 ran like a scalded dog! Sadly, had to sell it shortly after to help pay some bills.
Ya should try capping off the vacuum line when setting ya timing. I never worked for GM but I’ve worked on em quite a bit and it was in the right place. But you’re right ya don’t want it pulling vacuum when setting your timing so pull the line off the distributor and plug the line so the carb isn’t left pulling air and you should notice the difference. Hope this helps
The vaccum advance is to allow the starter to turn and then advance as soon as vacuum is created so the combustion dnt kick back on the starter 👍Im no expert 😁 but i always set my timing around 8 degrees with the vaccum advance reciving vaccum no matter if the butterflys are open or closed thats what port vaccum is mainfold vacuum is lost when butterflys open👍the total timing at higher rpms is done with the weights in the distributor normally dnt need messing with on stock motor just confirmed that it works just set it and forget it and move on to that carb dnt over thank it 😂 i fill like im writing a book but may can explain it better will try to help with that also when the video comes out but im a holley man not as familiar with the edlebrocks but you fix one pinball you have fixed them all lol
On my stock 400 GMC Sierra classic which is freshly rebuild but stock I went full manifold vacuum within adjustable vacuum advance where you use the Allen head not the plate lockout on the vacuum canister get you a spring kit you want about a medium advanced Springs I got 14 on my initial to get 20 HG on the vacuum I add about 10° on my vacuum canister maybe 12 and you should be pretty close 2 degrees more you'll probably get bogging I say this because of the rod ratio and the way the Piston moves fast then slow then fast been slow with each stroke because of the 5.5 Rod ratio that's just my opinion but that's a good starting point and the biggest point I'd like to illustrate with the bore and stroke on this engine it is not a RPM machine maybe 4500 Max RPM before you spin a bearing or run out of steam because of the heads most people this is a truck motor a Workhorse not a track motor unless you got the money to invest in stock form these are just truck motors they'll get your load up to 55 easy these 400 act differently compared to the other small blocks think of it as a big block
I hope we are going to see the truck do a Dukes of Hazard style jump when it's finished
I sure the hell hope not. I already got too much time in it now.
Also make sure your timing tab corresponds with the harmonic balancer timing mark. I had a goodwrench 350 from Jegs 5 years ago that I tried to get running good...motor came with 2 oclock timing tabs you bolt on (either for the 6 or 8 inch balancers). Here is what they DONT tell you...in the mid 70s- late 80s most SBC engines had factory 12 oclock timing tabs welded on the water pump...with 12 oclock balancers. I bought a new DAYCO oreillys balancer for that engine, not knowing that it was a 12 oclock balancer (which is factory OEM). Set it at TDC mark, mechanic helped me fire it up to break it in and she just wouldn't fire. He went and moved the spark plug wires one spot counter clockwise and she started up and ran good...but I always thought something wasn't right with that motor, ran like the old dog 305 it replaced. Plus some plug wires were kinda stretched. Eventually put some headers on it to help with exhaust flow. But after 4 years I replaced the wires, and forgot to mark the wires. Tried to run it in the correct spots on the cap like everybody else has, rotor pointing to the #1. Motor couldnt run. After verifying with my finger in the #1 plug hole, the damn balancer mark was WAY to left, facing a 12 clock position, and rotor facing 3 oclock. After researching this on the internet, all I did was pull the distributor out and repositioned it to face the #1 cylinder and put it back in. And she purred like a kitten! Then placed the vacuum advance to FULL manifold vacuum, and had to adjust the idle a bit. Man that 82 C10 ran like a scalded dog! Sadly, had to sell it shortly after to help pay some bills.
Yeah, I’ve went through that before
Ya should try capping off the vacuum line when setting ya timing. I never worked for GM but I’ve worked on em quite a bit and it was in the right place. But you’re right ya don’t want it pulling vacuum when setting your timing so pull the line off the distributor and plug the line so the carb isn’t left pulling air and you should notice the difference. Hope this helps
Yep
Donnie learned a new word hahah Ronnie you have me dying over here!
Lol
Just subbed!
Thanks
well done guys,thank you for another freat video,sorry i missed a few of your videos and rons,been away now playin catch up :) x
It’s fine you can catch up thanks for watching
The vaccum advance is to allow the starter to turn and then advance as soon as vacuum is created so the combustion dnt kick back on the starter 👍Im no expert 😁 but i always set my timing around 8 degrees with the vaccum advance reciving vaccum no matter if the butterflys are open or closed thats what port vaccum is mainfold vacuum is lost when butterflys open👍the total timing at higher rpms is done with the weights in the distributor normally dnt need messing with on stock motor just confirmed that it works just set it and forget it and move on to that carb dnt over thank it 😂 i fill like im writing a book but may can explain it better will try to help with that also when the video comes out but im a holley man not as familiar with the edlebrocks but you fix one pinball you have fixed them all lol
Ok
On my stock 400 GMC Sierra classic which is freshly rebuild but stock I went full manifold vacuum within adjustable vacuum advance where you use the Allen head not the plate lockout on the vacuum canister get you a spring kit you want about a medium advanced Springs I got 14 on my initial to get 20 HG on the vacuum I add about 10° on my vacuum canister maybe 12 and you should be pretty close 2 degrees more you'll probably get bogging I say this because of the rod ratio and the way the Piston moves fast then slow then fast been slow with each stroke because of the 5.5 Rod ratio that's just my opinion but that's a good starting point and the biggest point I'd like to illustrate with the bore and stroke on this engine it is not a RPM machine maybe 4500 Max RPM before you spin a bearing or run out of steam because of the heads most people this is a truck motor a Workhorse not a track motor unless you got the money to invest in stock form these are just truck motors they'll get your load up to 55 easy these 400 act differently compared to the other small blocks think of it as a big block
There good motors I got a few of them
The caped off would be for tha vacuum transmission
Yep thanks for watching
Pay attention now, I’m gonna learn ya!
Yep
it will run better on full vacum and run cooler
Still not right
Did y'all ever get a good timing for the 400
Yeah, but we found out that the crank without a balance, because they oil pump is not hooked up
Did donny sort the clutch out on his truck
Not yet