Nice. I'm setting myself up a centrifuge. It's a lot of work just doing the hoses and fittings to do it right. Plus the expense of the centrifuge. I have a 1984 W123 turbo. Going to do a dual tank. Hopefully I can eventually recoup my investment.
I mix mine with Petrol first and thin it down and then let it sit for a week or two and most of the dirt goes to to the bottom, my pump hose has a float and pumps from the top of the tank through filters to holding tank for clean fuel, means the filter bags stay cleaner.
after (i think) 2005 they switched to low sulfur diesel which has been accelerating the wear on these old engines that were designed for high sulfur (lubricity) which i believe makes the change in sound loudness
Someone posted this video anonymously on waste oil Facebook group. Awesome video, I only have one piece of HUMBLE advice. Get your dirty tote higher above your clean tote and save money in electricity by using gravity instead of that pump. Is that a stainless 55 gallon drum!?!?!!?! I cannot find a stainless drum for less than $400 empty.
@@backyardcreator2170 it will work if you use the siphon effect. However, if you use gravity, it won't be long until your filter starts slowing down to the point where you'll drive further in 24 hours than the totes will be able to filter. It will be suuuper slow. Unless your oil already is clean.
Silent MB... yeah sounds good to the avg person's ear... butttttttt..... ???? its a diesel....... there is a good possibility that sound, or should I say lack of it, means she is not actually combusting correctly. Experiment with your IP position (that's how you time these). Pick a mile or two piece of highway where she has to work hard... or where you can hammer it hard... (italian tune up mode). Do timed runs on it like it is now on diesel and on your WMO blend for baselines. Refer to info on how to do drip time on these....to get idea of how IP is adjusted. (not the drip part.. but how you make actual the tiny movements to IP to adjust it.) the you can use that tiny adjustment method, to move the IP to test again. Move it a smidge[ then do the time run again. Eventually you'll find best IP position that gets optimal-ish combustion of the WMO blend you tend to use.. Oh and make sure to measure/mark extremely well where it likes to run on diesel so you can return it back to that for winter. Get the feeling you will find faster times at a different IP setting, than where it sits now.... and bet that spot will bring the diesel clatter back too. The idea is not to get a faster MB by measuring speed... it's just a way to measure how efficient the engine is combusting the fuel. That said all the above is theory-ish. Things stuffed in my head from hmmm.. decade and half of helping run WVO discussion forums back when was moving in that direction with same engine. Am again going that direction w/ a 617A and a CAT... but like you.... with WMO this time. As a retired fella now... am seeing that going this direction in life, is only way I can afford to live going forward. oh and stop smoking- your kids will thank you someday 🤠. PS-Useless triva... think we may not be but few hours apart. Am near-ish IN border, in OH
Have recently come across yours and others videos about black diesel and I'm very interested as I work repairing agri machinery where we have a large tank full of waste oils (it used to be bought and collected but now the company wants us to pay for it's collection) which we are trying to find a means of removing or using, my question is this tank is full of a mixture of oils and dirty diesel, so with filtering can these contents be used or do the various oils/diesel need to be seperated?
@@stevehill4615 nope, there being different oils and some diesel wont hurt anything. As long as it's not a ton of super heavy gear oil you should be fine
I mix 50/50 with highway diesel then filter with the 1 micron sock, speeds it up and has worked for 5 years.
2003 6l turbo diesel
Nice. I'm setting myself up a centrifuge. It's a lot of work just doing the hoses and fittings to do it right. Plus the expense of the centrifuge.
I have a 1984 W123 turbo. Going to do a dual tank. Hopefully I can eventually recoup my investment.
Find a filter pot and you can put those bags in it to pump oil through. A pot has gauges on it so you can tell when the bag is starting plug.
I mix mine with Petrol first and thin it down and then let it sit for a week or two and most of the dirt goes to to the bottom, my pump hose has a float and pumps from the top of the tank through filters to holding tank for clean fuel, means the filter bags stay cleaner.
after (i think) 2005 they switched to low sulfur diesel which has been accelerating the wear on these old engines that were designed for high sulfur (lubricity) which i believe makes the change in sound loudness
Someone posted this video anonymously on waste oil Facebook group.
Awesome video, I only have one piece of HUMBLE advice.
Get your dirty tote higher above your clean tote and save money in electricity by using gravity instead of that pump.
Is that a stainless 55 gallon drum!?!?!!?!
I cannot find a stainless drum for less than $400 empty.
Its galvanized, Got that one, and 6 others free! Gravity won't help any since I pull from above the bottom of the tote unfortunately.
@@backyardcreator2170 it will work if you use the siphon effect.
However, if you use gravity, it won't be long until your filter starts slowing down to the point where you'll drive further in 24 hours than the totes will be able to filter. It will be suuuper slow. Unless your oil already is clean.
Sweet video. I like this kinda content
Silent MB... yeah sounds good to the avg person's ear... butttttttt..... ???? its a diesel....... there is a good possibility that sound, or should I say lack of it, means she is not actually combusting correctly. Experiment with your IP position (that's how you time these). Pick a mile or two piece of highway where she has to work hard... or where you can hammer it hard... (italian tune up mode). Do timed runs on it like it is now on diesel and on your WMO blend for baselines. Refer to info on how to do drip time on these....to get idea of how IP is adjusted. (not the drip part.. but how you make actual the tiny movements to IP to adjust it.) the you can use that tiny adjustment method, to move the IP to test again. Move it a smidge[ then do the time run again. Eventually you'll find best IP position that gets optimal-ish combustion of the WMO blend you tend to use.. Oh and make sure to measure/mark extremely well where it likes to run on diesel so you can return it back to that for winter.
Get the feeling you will find faster times at a different IP setting, than where it sits now.... and bet that spot will bring the diesel clatter back too. The idea is not to get a faster MB by measuring speed... it's just a way to measure how efficient the engine is combusting the fuel.
That said all the above is theory-ish. Things stuffed in my head from hmmm.. decade and half of helping run WVO discussion forums back when was moving in that direction with same engine. Am again going that direction w/ a 617A and a CAT... but like you.... with WMO this time. As a retired fella now... am seeing that going this direction in life, is only way I can afford to live going forward.
oh and stop smoking- your kids will thank you someday 🤠.
PS-Useless triva... think we may not be but few hours apart. Am near-ish IN border, in OH
I got 28-30 mpg with my 300Sd on my cross country road trip so probably something to do with timings , injectors and maybe fuel being too thick
Well, I'm convinced. Great vid!
Yeah, these injectors are super easy. 1-1/16" deep socket. Super easy to balance and pop test as well.
Have recently come across yours and others videos about black diesel and I'm very interested as I work repairing agri machinery where we have a large tank full of waste oils (it used to be bought and collected but now the company wants us to pay for it's collection) which we are trying to find a means of removing or using, my question is this tank is full of a mixture of oils and dirty diesel, so with filtering can these contents be used or do the various oils/diesel need to be seperated?
@@stevehill4615 nope, there being different oils and some diesel wont hurt anything. As long as it's not a ton of super heavy gear oil you should be fine
Why you dont fix that rust?
So you are having the injectors coking every thousand or so miles? are you running 100% waste oil in the warmer months?
@thedillestpickle yes. Warm months I run 100% single tank. Dual tank would greatly increase the distance between injector cleanings.