I have a couple open tote worm bins in my kitchen and they get EVERYTHING for bedding -- haircuts, dead flower bouquets, everything we sweep off the floor, etc. As you said, the microbial diversity just gets better and better with the diversity of inputs. ~ Sandra
This is a great video, as usual. Lots of good info. If I can share my experience: I watched a video on European ways of using leaves for compost. It is fungal composting. I was watching vermicomposting at the same time. I put them together and it has turned out to be excellent and extremely low maintenance. I vacuum up leaves (oak) which shreds them a bit, then put them all in a huge 30 gallon planter pot with holes at the bottom. Water in the leaves. About a month later when the mold takes hold in the leaves you can add the worms. Depending on temps, this can end up being nothing but a few leaf scraps and pure black worm castings in 4 to 8 months. Easy. Just make sure it stays moist. No other inputs required. I will say dust and sand get vacuumed up with the leaves and end up being grit for the worms.
When I lived in Massachusetts, I had a five gallon bucket set up. I threw everything in there, then found out I couldn’t put onions in. I looked didn’t see any movement, I thought I killed them. I emptied the bucket in to my compost tumbler. That winter was bad lots of snow, I went out in spring the tumbler was full of red wigglers. Fast forward to last year, I move to SC I have five gallon bucket’s stacked about five high got four inches of snow went sledding my wigglers still going strong. Bunny poop,straw,leaf mold, scraps, egg shell, and coffee grounds. Anyway that was my experience with the wigglers, great video as always.
I also make worm chow, using spelt, polenta, black rice, lentils, mung beans, nutritional yeast, spirulina, moringa, eggshell powder, instant potatoes, etc. Sprouted grains as well.
Thank you I needed this. I just ordered mine from a local breeder OldTomsWorms in Sata Clara Ca. They should be here in a day or two. So I need to be ready by then.
couple things, deworm medication isn't an issue after aging, i think 30 days if i recall for mostly all of them. they use it in cattle and dairy solids are the most common for composting and vermicomposting at industrial scale. also, worms like 80-90% moisture, so field capacity is slighty under watered for what they like. also rememver, worms eat the bacteria that decompose the food, so the idea is to build up microbial life, like in compost. so best feeds to start with are pretty much already decomposing things. edit* this is important because if you start with high carbon input without much n then it will take longer for your food craps to start decomposing as biology builds up. I know that you added leaf mold and IM03, but most people start with pure carbon so I felt like that was a bonus tip. also azomite has 11% aluminum. so if youre worried about heavy metals, be careful with how much you apply. glacial rock dust or gypsum or ag lime or basalt/granite all great sources of rock dust. oh oyster shell flour, greensand, etc
The alumina in AZOMITE® is not biologically available. It is bound to the silica and is an aluminosilicate. "Aluminum the metal" can only be derived from "alumina" through the process of smelting. Sand, clay, most rock deposits, and soil deposits are primarily aluminosilicates. In the words of Sally Fallon, President of the Weston Price foundation, "It does contain aluminum, but it is also rich in silica, which counteracts the aluminum. People have been eating clay and dirt as a tradition for thousands of years and all clay contains aluminum and silica."
@@bigyaoop yeah I’d like to see a soil test after a few years of heavy applications rates and see if they will pass for heavy metals in food production. If it’s so bound to the silicate than the silica by that logic is also unavailable. If it were then that’s leaving behind aluminum ions which can than be up taken by the plant and stored in which could be potentially toxic. I mean just going based off that statement alone. I haven’t looked into it ye deeper yet.
@@bigyaoop so alumina (aluminum oxide) bonds to other things like phosphorous tying them up in the soil, also create toxicity in the root zone, and aluminum can build up in the tissue of the plant. So yeah, all my suspicions were spot on. It can be of benefit in moderation. But putting it into a worm bin is going to make it allbioavailable. That’s kind of what worms do so I’d be weary of putting it into a worm bin and then applying that directly to your plants. There’s many other forms of rock dusts without heavy metals that have the same if not better results that azomite.
QUESTION: why put the mat on top? I'm new to raising red wrigglers and thought that might dry them out? Help. And THANK YOU, love your explicit, detailed information so much!
Great videos, thank you. I often seem to have nuts which have gone rancid. Would you put nuts in the worm bin or bokashi bin? I'm thinking they would need to be ground up if going into the worm bin? Many thanks from West Wales
I have the wriggley worm ranch. I also have chickens and in the chicken trun there are tons of worms. Can I pull worms from the chicken area to populate the worm ranch?
BSFL VIDEO?? Good to see you back I have a bag that's 2 months from first it's first harvest I have it packed to the very top. And I started with uncle Jim's red wigglers
It survives off a purely coffee grounds banana peels and half eaten apples from my 2-year-old it's thriving I've thrown a ton of leaves and it as well once it got about 3/4 of the way full that kept the worms on the bottom for a bit longer but they have made their way to the top and are beginning to eat way more often.
Aerated worm casting tea is far superior. If you have your moisture right in your bin there shouldn't be much leechate, only when rebuilding the bins or in summer on a rare watering from my experience. Your goal is to create quality castings not leechate and then make either an extraction in water or aerate and feed like in this video th-cam.com/video/nKzYBbl4Shc/w-d-xo.html
@NaturesAlwaysRight I'm new to vermicomposting. I've been wondering about that because I don't have buckets of lecheat. My worms are in my utility room in a plastic tub, yes it's a little watery on the bottom (no holes) but I'll add more food and paper and move things around to soak it up. So far I've had to take some worms out and put into 2 more smaller containers because what was 50 worms is probably a thousand now! Love how detailed you are on your channel! Just found you recently and subbed to get more great content.
Only question I have is why order worms from a company to be shipped when you can go to a bait shop and support a small business owner in your community.
If my worms get delivered early, my bin delivery date got pushed back unexpectedly, can I just feed them in the bag until the bin arrives and I prep it?
Mist the worms with water they can survive a day or 2 in the bag. If it's going to be more than 24 hours I'd put them in a tote with bedding and 1 banana peel.
Do you use Johnson-Su compost extraction (to obtain fungally dominant seed treatment) for your gardening? Did you do any reviews on that experience? Young Red Angus has a channel where he is getting high corn yield w/o synthetic inputs.
The johnson-su is definately gaining interest. It is however just vermicomposting. Ideal ratios are .75:1 for veg, and 2-5:1 for fruit trees, vines etc. Youngredangus is quite the champ
I get from million dollar stable horses, after leaving in woven bag to break down I find red wrigglers in them, free source, then they go into my compost pallet bins or in black bins.😊
They should be composting worms or surface dwelling worms. Red wiggler is the most common species, here are the best species for this kind of composting, bit.ly/3OsSIme
@@wakeywakey8603 LOL yes they poo and they jump. They were originally from Asia and here in North America they have no competition so they multiple very quickly. For whatever reason they don’t enrich the soil like an earthworm or red wiggles. My soil has been damaged by them. It’s just a matter of the poor guys being in the wrong place. I noticed changes in my soil before I had heard of this type of worm. It’s easy to Google, if you are in North America you don’t want these types of worms in your compost.
Has to be done indoors then. Or maybe it's just not feasible in that climate so don't worry there are many other ways to create inexpensive but powerful fertilizers and inoculants. JADAM methods, Korean natural farming, methods traditional compost in spring/summer, bio fertilizers etc. This playlist talks about many of them, th-cam.com/play/PLG9acmbzWMpjk63ZJ0yET0eBuYaaZvTQn.html
🌱NAR Email Exclusive Farming Tips - bit.ly/2PO0ZTf
Buy the Urban Worm Bag - bit.ly/3uo29ex
Buy Meme's Worms for Your System - bit.ly/3jbVBsY
I have a couple open tote worm bins in my kitchen and they get EVERYTHING for bedding -- haircuts, dead flower bouquets, everything we sweep off the floor, etc. As you said, the microbial diversity just gets better and better with the diversity of inputs.
~ Sandra
This is a great video, as usual. Lots of good info.
If I can share my experience: I watched a video on European ways of using leaves for compost. It is fungal composting. I was watching vermicomposting at the same time. I put them together and it has turned out to be excellent and extremely low maintenance.
I vacuum up leaves (oak) which shreds them a bit, then put them all in a huge 30 gallon planter pot with holes at the bottom.
Water in the leaves. About a month later when the mold takes hold in the leaves you can add the worms. Depending on temps, this can end up being nothing but a few leaf scraps and pure black worm castings in 4 to 8 months. Easy. Just make sure it stays moist. No other inputs required. I will say dust and sand get vacuumed up with the leaves and end up being grit for the worms.
When I lived in Massachusetts, I had a five gallon bucket set up. I threw everything in there, then found out I couldn’t put onions in. I looked didn’t see any movement, I thought I killed them. I emptied the bucket in to my compost tumbler. That winter was bad lots of snow, I went out in spring the tumbler was full of red wigglers. Fast forward to last year, I move to SC I have five gallon bucket’s stacked about five high got four inches of snow went sledding my wigglers still going strong. Bunny poop,straw,leaf mold, scraps, egg shell, and coffee grounds. Anyway that was my experience with the wigglers, great video as always.
Great tip keeping them warm in the compost tumbler through winter. I like that you cycle the bunny poo through the system.
I also make worm chow, using spelt, polenta, black rice, lentils, mung beans, nutritional yeast, spirulina, moringa, eggshell powder, instant potatoes, etc. Sprouted grains as well.
Wow that's fantastic!
Man I looove your videos and attitude for farming. So on point! Thank you for all the work documenting and sharing everything ❤
Thank you I needed this. I just ordered mine from a local breeder OldTomsWorms in Sata Clara Ca.
They should be here in a day or two.
So I need to be ready by then.
Great info, and this system looks very efficient and space friendly! Need to get started again with vermicomposting.
Awesome, I just started to create my second worm bin system
Nice Elijah! Can never have enough composting worms ;)
Very interesting and very helpful!! Thank you!!
Been watching you for a while, cool to see you in the Ozarks doc. Great stuff!
couple things, deworm medication isn't an issue after aging, i think 30 days if i recall for mostly all of them. they use it in cattle and dairy solids are the most common for composting and vermicomposting at industrial scale. also, worms like 80-90% moisture, so field capacity is slighty under watered for what they like. also rememver, worms eat the bacteria that decompose the food, so the idea is to build up microbial life, like in compost. so best feeds to start with are pretty much already decomposing things. edit* this is important because if you start with high carbon input without much n then it will take longer for your food craps to start decomposing as biology builds up. I know that you added leaf mold and IM03, but most people start with pure carbon so I felt like that was a bonus tip.
also azomite has 11% aluminum. so if youre worried about heavy metals, be careful with how much you apply. glacial rock dust or gypsum or ag lime or basalt/granite all great sources of rock dust. oh oyster shell flour, greensand, etc
The alumina in AZOMITE® is not biologically available. It is bound to the silica and is an aluminosilicate. "Aluminum the metal" can only be derived from "alumina" through the process of smelting. Sand, clay, most rock deposits, and soil deposits are primarily aluminosilicates. In the words of Sally Fallon, President of the Weston Price foundation, "It does contain aluminum, but it is also rich in silica, which counteracts the aluminum. People have been eating clay and dirt as a tradition for thousands of years and all clay contains aluminum and silica."
@@bigyaoop yeah I’d like to see a soil test after a few years of heavy applications rates and see if they will pass for heavy metals in food production. If it’s so bound to the silicate than the silica by that logic is also unavailable. If it were then that’s leaving behind aluminum ions which can than be up taken by the plant and stored in which could be potentially toxic. I mean just going based off that statement alone. I haven’t looked into it ye deeper yet.
@@bigyaoop so alumina (aluminum oxide) bonds to other things like phosphorous tying them up in the soil, also create toxicity in the root zone, and aluminum can build up in the tissue of the plant. So yeah, all my suspicions were spot on. It can be of benefit in moderation. But putting it into a worm bin is going to make it allbioavailable. That’s kind of what worms do so I’d be weary of putting it into a worm bin and then applying that directly to your plants. There’s many other forms of rock dusts without heavy metals that have the same if not better results that azomite.
QUESTION: why put the mat on top? I'm new to raising red wrigglers and thought that might dry them out? Help. And THANK YOU, love your explicit, detailed information so much!
Great videos, thank you. I often seem to have nuts which have gone rancid. Would you put nuts in the worm bin or bokashi bin? I'm thinking they would need to be ground up if going into the worm bin? Many thanks from West Wales
I have the wriggley worm ranch. I also have chickens and in the chicken trun there are tons of worms. Can I pull worms from the chicken area to populate the worm ranch?
BSFL VIDEO?? Good to see you back I have a bag that's 2 months from first it's first harvest I have it packed to the very top. And I started with uncle Jim's red wigglers
It survives off a purely coffee grounds banana peels and half eaten apples from my 2-year-old it's thriving I've thrown a ton of leaves and it as well once it got about 3/4 of the way full that kept the worms on the bottom for a bit longer but they have made their way to the top and are beginning to eat way more often.
Awesome. What about the worm juice? Do you extract it and feed to garden?
Aerated worm casting tea is far superior. If you have your moisture right in your bin there shouldn't be much leechate, only when rebuilding the bins or in summer on a rare watering from my experience. Your goal is to create quality castings not leechate and then make either an extraction in water or aerate and feed like in this video th-cam.com/video/nKzYBbl4Shc/w-d-xo.html
@@NaturesAlwaysRight thanks man
@NaturesAlwaysRight I'm new to vermicomposting.
I've been wondering about that because I don't have buckets of lecheat. My worms are in my utility room in a plastic tub, yes it's a little watery on the bottom (no holes) but I'll add more food and paper and move things around to soak it up. So far I've had to take some worms out and put into 2 more smaller containers because what was 50 worms is probably a thousand now! Love how detailed you are on your channel! Just found you recently and subbed to get more great content.
Curious if spoiled livestock minerals like for goats or pigs can be used in the garden? Or for what you're doing here?
Great information. Thank you much for sharing.
This is so cool. I want to get into worms. Thinking of this made me thing of a dumb and Dumber haha 😂 “I’ve Got Worms” 😂
Every gardener needs their own worm farm :) best fertilizer on the planet. Haha classic movie!
@@NaturesAlwaysRight I’m going to try worms. I know my garden has tons of them. But I would like to have my own worm castings thanks for the video ❤️
Also carrots and apples given to horses are sprayed with herbicides
Only question I have is why order worms from a company to be shipped when you can go to a bait shop and support a small business owner in your community.
Nematodes work well in bins to keep bugs to a min.
Hey Steven would sawdust work?
Yes it will, just untreated sawdust of course
@@NaturesAlwaysRight thanks
Thanks. Great :)
If my worms get delivered early, my bin delivery date got pushed back unexpectedly, can I just feed them in the bag until the bin arrives and I prep it?
Mist the worms with water they can survive a day or 2 in the bag. If it's going to be more than 24 hours I'd put them in a tote with bedding and 1 banana peel.
Do you use Johnson-Su compost extraction (to obtain fungally dominant seed treatment) for your gardening? Did you do any reviews on that experience? Young Red Angus has a channel where he is getting high corn yield w/o synthetic inputs.
The johnson-su is definately gaining interest. It is however just vermicomposting. Ideal ratios are .75:1 for veg, and 2-5:1 for fruit trees, vines etc.
Youngredangus is quite the champ
can the oil from the chainsaw be damaging to the soil or worms?No food waste in your bin is the best thing!!Great video!!!
I wouldn't use those shavings. Thanks!
I get from million dollar stable horses, after leaving in woven bag to break down I find red wrigglers in them, free source, then they go into my compost pallet bins or in black bins.😊
Do the worms have to be red?? Or any color?
They should be composting worms or surface dwelling worms. Red wiggler is the most common species, here are the best species for this kind of composting, bit.ly/3OsSIme
I have the dreaded Asian jumping worms in my garden now, they do not replenish the soil they deplete the soil. Make sure you get the right worms.
@@GenuinlyTransformed They don't poop? And they jump? Wow I'm Asian American & I've never heard of such a thing!!
@@wakeywakey8603 LOL yes they poo and they jump. They were originally from Asia and here in North America they have no competition so they multiple very quickly. For whatever reason they don’t enrich the soil like an earthworm or red wiggles. My soil has been damaged by them. It’s just a matter of the poor guys being in the wrong place. I noticed changes in my soil before I had heard of this type of worm. It’s easy to Google, if you are in North America you don’t want these types of worms in your compost.
What about seaweed?
Excellent for soil, plants, animals.
Have you thought of heating your bins with your Bokashi instead of using electricity to power heating mats ?.
What part of the country are you in????
How to deal with worms when ground freezes 3 foot deep
Has to be done indoors then. Or maybe it's just not feasible in that climate so don't worry there are many other ways to create inexpensive but powerful fertilizers and inoculants. JADAM methods, Korean natural farming, methods traditional compost in spring/summer, bio fertilizers etc. This playlist talks about many of them, th-cam.com/play/PLG9acmbzWMpjk63ZJ0yET0eBuYaaZvTQn.html
☘️🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲
Great talent, keep up the good work!! Do not waste your time > "Promosm"!