🌟Buy Composting Red Worms - bit.ly/3jbVBsY 🌟Buy Urban Worm Bag Composting System - bit.ly/3uo29ex 🌟PRODUCTS USED TO BUILD Buy Composting Red Worms (500ct) - amzn.to/2V28OtM Rubbermaid Tote (10 gallon) - Get from big box store, if can't find this size a little bigger or smaller will still work well. amzn.to/2UECbyM Pond Liner - amzn.to/2HHv4Py 3/4" Uniseal (2 pack) - amzn.to/2JKqWzc 3/4" Uniseal (5 pack) - amzn.to/2HGAYEN 1-1/4" Hole Saw for 3/4" Uniseal - amzn.to/2HBuIdy Makita Drill - amzn.to/2r6uLIa Dewalt Drill bit set - amzn.to/2HH6mPH Hand Stapler - amzn.to/2vZJtFA Box Cutter - amzn.to/2r8Jy57 ▶️ What To Feed Your Worms - th-cam.com/video/LhofkrHgSDw/w-d-xo.html
Use a soldering iron to make your holes. The hole it makes pushes the melted material to the perimeter. When it hardens, the hole is much stronger and less prone to cracking. I think it takes less time than drilling because theres no need for cleanup ( no extra shredded plastic bits everywhere).
You are an amazing organic gardener. I wish I had met someone like you when I was a young gardener. And, there was no TH-cam back then! The information you are sharing is invaluable for organic gardeners. I had to do it the old fashion way, I collected my table scraps, newspaper, grass and hay cuttings and layered it on my garden in the winter. Covered it up with weed barrier to allow rain and snow to permeate and the next spring when I pulled back the weed barrier the worms made me jump in the air because they were the size of garter snakes! My plants that year were so prolific that the size of my tomatoes actually broke down the trellis!
I am a worm farmer myself and I am very impressed with this table of yours. Low maintenance and easy to work with. Liked and subbed... thx for sharing.
Spent the day looking in to wormeries and you're the first person i've seen put together the structure in my head. Thanks for reassuring me i'm not crazy and for a great breakdown in how to build. Subscribed.
For the first 12 years i had holes for drsinage in my worm beds...no longer. No holes ,control moisture bby adding carbon. Worm castings are much better now. Have been doing this now for about 18 years with no problems. And i only use cardboard sheets cut to fit for covers. Less fuss, less mess and better castings....even under microscope.
Same for my raised gardens! No drainage\lined with poly. I'm in hot central Texas. Where are you? I put my beds on my channel. They conserve water and work so much better!
@@TheRainHarvester my worm farm was on stainless shelving units in my cellar. Sold all but 1 tub 2 years ago due to being disabled and bedridden. I am in the binghamton area of NYS. BEFORE GOING TO RESTRAUNT bins I did them the way I was told ..back in late 70's.?with holes in bottom of covered large tubs..I had a drain line to handle all of the leachate...was a lot of work. With my last system I spent less than 30 minutes once a week to turn ,feed and replace tubs to shelving unit.....all 20 of them...never leachate mess...only made worm tea when I wanted it.....
@@NaturesAlwaysRight once you use the soldering needle for melting plastic, it's not good for soldering anymore. If you borrow a soldering iron, buy a new tip before you return it, or that person might not loan tools to you anymore. You could remove the tip and replace it with a brad before you start melting holes. When you're done, then put the original tip back in.
This is EXACTLY how I learned to make my own vermicomposting bins .i first learned about this in Hawaii in my master gardeners course .i use this same thing here in New York now..
You are so resourceful and kind to take your time to show us how to make this amazing worm bin system. Love what your doing for the world. Thank you my BFAM (brother from another mother). Much love you all.
I have been wanting a worm farm for 2 year. I live part of the year in an Airstream ,so I needed something the RV resort wouldnt complain about . I found a very cute teal blue worm hut for only $45 on amazon, most were close to $100 .Maybe its from being sheltered in place during the quarantine for over a week with only my pet bird.. But I cannot wait for my worm children to arrive.
@@NaturesAlwaysRight I'm trying to figure out how to do my bins now, and I like your idea the best. I'm just afraid the worms will cook down here outside no matter how much shade they have.
@@NaturesAlwaysRight You can use a debur tool. Here is decent one. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YPWX3Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Thanks for video.
My worm bin is in a large cattle watering bin. I sure made some newby mistakes. But I'm so glad to have castings to use when planting my tomatoes and peppers. I'd love more videos on worm bins and how to use the castings and tea!
Oh nice that would generate a ton of castings. That's so great you have a large system. I will definitely be putting videos out of how to make tea and use the castings. I'm trying to get better and better at my teas. I recently got a microscope so I could see the organisms in the tea. I'll eventually be sharing that with everyone too :)
Thanks for sharing your build! Just as you mentioned, no man made system is ever perfect! In my opinion, your final product outweighs "the use of plastic". I do wish this video included footage of what the unit looks like with the second levels installed. Although, I can probably watch your other videos for a good shot of this. Enjoy your channel! Looking forward to your next video!
Thanks Toby! Thanks for the suggestion it would have been a good idea to do a close up of everything fully set up. I'll start including that in future build videos. When the first tote is most of the way broken down just add the 2nd tote on top and wait until the bottom tote has only a few worms in it. Thanks for your watching and your support.
Absolutely great video man! I’m definitely making one of these! On my hydroponic setup in plastic 5 gallon containers, I used a deburring tool to clean up the holes after I drilled them. Thanks for all you do man. Keep up the good work!
To clean the burrs from a drilled hole you can use an oversized bit to clean the holes both top and bottom. If you hold a few types of drill bits side by side, when you compare the cutting end, called the chisel, they have various angles/shapes and degree of cutting edge. Take note as you figure which angle works best for different materials. Also try different diameters for different base materials. Finally. If going the proper direction, clock-wise cuts to much material. Try going anti clock-wise to sort of ‘scrape’ the burrs away, as opposed to trying to drill them away. Hope this helps
Use a countersink drill bit and a small rechargeable cordless drill. Works great on Kydex so it should be great for bins as well. Thanks for the video!
Love your design . This is far from "easiest" :) probably the hardest I have seen but still this is by far the best system I have seen though. I hope your are producing a lot of worms and worm casting/tea.
You may want to put a bracket or hang iron to hold the pvc in place. Over time the weight of the pvc pipe and valve could pull it down out of the uni-seal. Probably not a huge issue, but it could save a min. in the future.
Hey I just found a way to put holes in the plastic worm tubs with zero clean up. Materials Needed - pliers - (2) nails - torch - propane Easy just heat a nail up holding it with the pliers and puncture the plastic tub. Use a larger nail on some of the holes in only one side of the tub for the worm migration. This technique has a "hot glue gun" affect on the plastic. Hope this helps and thanks for all the knowledge you share. Peace and God bless.
There are bits used for plexiglas to minimize burrs, forstner bits are also used for larger holes, but you may be able to find a 1/4" forstner bit. An alternative is to buy a good 1/4" hole punch and punch the hole with a plastic or wood backing, leaves a very clean hole. A countersink bit with a handle is better than a knife to deburr. Great video, thanks.
Consider a hex bit or unibit hex drill bit. usually better for a smoother finish than standard bit. Also good for creating variation of size holes if needed or should you consider going larger on the spot.
Thanks for the tips. Those bits work well but I tried those bits and every kind of bit out there (I think) and nothing is able to drill LDPE as smoothly as I like without leaving residue. I haven't tried yet, but poking something hot like a soldering iron through the bin seems like a good option.
A bit late to recommend but a spade bit normally drills cleanly into plastic with little to no clean up at all. Enjoying the video tutorials, and as always, stay safe.
Counter-Intuitive but also a green (high in nitrogen): Coffe Grounds. Against popular belief, normal (i.e. hot brewed) coffe grounds won't have much acidity and worms gonna love it!
If you put a piece of stock, really anything dampening, on the back of what you're drilling and clamp it. You dont get those 'exit wound' kinda holes. I find burning holes still leaves a less severe version or the same issue. Use stock behind your drilling surface for the cleanest result.
My suggestion was to place a piece of wood under where you drill. It will keep the plastic from fraying. But, lukeo85 has the better idea with the hot solder tip. Great idea
The easiest way I have found to drill holes that you don't have to clean up is run the drill backwards. The drill still spins at a very high RPM so you basically melt your way through the plastic. It takes a bit longer but you make up that time by a ending with a clean hole. This works even better with hole saws. And when working with IBCs you avoid cracking that slightly harder plastic. And if you are looking for a flexible ruler to mark out curved plastic bins I haven't found something better than an old window blind.
I keep red wrigglers in five gallon buckets. The buckets have no holes and the worms do great. Super easy and I got the bucket for free. Keep leaves on the top so they have a place to go if it gets too much liquid on the bottom.
Hey cool design, Try cutting holes from the bottom up instead from inside down. The plastic flashing tends to point in the direction the drill bit is pulling. I see several comments about reversing the drill. Sure wont cut through as easy. Simply flip the bins over and drill from the outside in.
When you drill your holes. ITs called reeming, you go back and forth/side to side with the drill bit, it can open the hole a tad bit bigger than you wanted to drill, but by doing so you drilll a smoother hole.
Thanks for teaching those of us just starting out. Any Ideas on getting rid of poison Ivy? My sister lives in town, has it on her fence line and is all bfroke out with it.
Looks like an amazing set up I'm going to do it on a smaller scale how do you keep the worms from crawling out the bottom 1/4" holes just keep the food on top ?
Looks like a great design! My only concern would be the heat mid summer, I keep my worms in a very shaded area, I’m in qld Australia so we don’t get super cold winters.
I keep them in full shade with burlap over the top, no problems :) We only go to 100F here in San Diego though. Keeping the bedding moist is the most important then it stays cool inside the totes.
I have made 4 -5 gallon worm bins and do get the worm tea from each. It appears that my larger worms have disappeared but can see many small baby like worms. Did I do something wrong or is this a natural part of the evolution. Was it something in the products I was composting? Would appreciate your insight from you and your group.
Hey, so I ended up having at least some partial success with installing the uniseal the second time. I ended up sanding the hole a bit and that helped some. It still was a little messed up, but it is holding at least. When you put your second tote on for the worms to start moving up, do you place a piece of cardboard on the bottom, since this will eventually become the bottom layer? It seems though with this in place , the worms may have a hard time climbing to that tote if there is cardboard in the way.
Glad to hear it is working better. Ya the uniseal is a little tricky to get to work for sure. A bulkhead fitting is another option, just a little more expensive. Yes I put a piece of cardboard at the bottom of every new bin, I make sure it is smaller though and doesn't cover all the holes. Just trying to make it easier for the worms, and the cardboard prevents castings from falling out a little better.
Hey could you do an update on worm bin. You are very inspiring. Want to make one. Didn't know if you would change anything? Thank you for your time and effort.
@8:34 Instead of running a knife around each hole to clean of the rough edge, you could take a large drill piece (1/2 inch) can spin it around in the hole by hand. If you put it in your drill it can accidentally go all the way through :)
If the tubs are HDPE you could use a lighter or a torch (at a respectful distance of course) to clean up the holes. HDPE is a thermoplastic (not sure about the other one, might also be thermoplastic).
Idk about plastic but w metal I get rid of burrs by just taking a way bigger bit and lightly drilling the top of the hole without penetrating the hole any. It cleans the hole perfectly
Youmy use an electrical heater that's used in electrical and electrnical tiny attaches using heat. Or you ay still use the driller and try to clean the holes with sand paper sheets after drilling.
A step bit reams while it drills, (get a smaller one so you don't oversize the holes) it's great you are using primer with the pvc pipe, but with a non pressure system, not necessary, just use Christy's Wet/Dry cement and eliminate all pipe prep.
Great job. Thanks for sharing. Questions on where you placed the air vent holes on the sides and placing the next tote on top. When you add another tote on top, does the tote on top cover those air vents? And does the weight of the top tote when filled crush the worm castings and worms?
You're welcome. When you add the second tote the air vents don't flow as well but it doesn't matter because everything is fully broken down. I don't have any problems with the castings going anaerobic. The weight on top does not kill the worms, it does compress the castings a little bit but it doesn't inhibit the worms ability to move up to the next tote.
Have been waiting for thiissss!!! Thank you for this video! Got some questions as always , hehe 1. How many worms do i need per bin? 2. What exactly worm tea is made of? I mean, is it the extract of the soil and castings or is it the extract from composting process? 3. If i only have worms and soil and feed them with veggies, without those conpost layers, can i still call it worm tea? Is it as powerful? 4. Last question, how often do i water my worm bin? Thank you very much.. i'm very confused about these 4 questions and i have been wondering for months.. Once again thanks for the video, its awesome as always! Love that "Let's Do This" buckets!! *)do share some tips of using worm tea and it's supernatural effects please.. just so that we subscribers may know.. heheh Thanks!!
Sweet you are welcome :) 1. Depends, more worms faster the colony builds. I'd say 1lb of worms per 10gallon or 40L bin is more than enough to get started. But I'm sure someone online has figured out the best practice on that. 2. Worm tea is an aerated tea meant to increase the microrganisms found in the worm castings. It is sprayed or watered in on plants. It can be made from compost or castings I'll be doing episodes on it in the future. 3. The liquid (leechate) that drains out from adding water to your bins is beneficial it has nutrient and microbes but nothing compared to what an aerated tea has. You should dilute the leechate 10 to 1 and add to water in your garden. 4. Keep your worm bin in the shade and covered and you will rarely water it, only in the summer is it necessary but it will depend on climate so you just need to check on the worms. It should be wet but not soggy and sloppy wet. They can handle a pretty wide range of moisture though and be fine. For most of the year the only moisture I add is whenever I add on a new tote and harvest teh castings. The biggest danger is letting the bins dry out or get too hot so keep it covered in summer. Under a tree is a good spot :)
Nature's Always Right Woww thanks for the ultimate and complete answer! Actually, after your first video where i saw you had worm bins, i was curious about worm bins and had already started my own bin ! XD Thank you for the answer again!! Will be waiting for that compost & castings video!
Sorry but a bit confusing..at beginning of film it looks like you're going to stack two totes but when you're finally filling them with compostable material they look like singles???? Great videos and thanks for going out of the way to do these videos
Afraid I don't know how to drill a clean hole in plastic, however, there's an easier way for cleaning those drilled hoies, usinng a dubble size drill bit, and while the drill is working, just touch the hole's surface slightly with the bit's edge and so ,very easily remove what needs to be removed without damaging the hole and without wasting too much effort. Hope that's a useful advice.
🌟Buy Composting Red Worms - bit.ly/3jbVBsY
🌟Buy Urban Worm Bag Composting System - bit.ly/3uo29ex
🌟PRODUCTS USED TO BUILD
Buy Composting Red Worms (500ct) - amzn.to/2V28OtM
Rubbermaid Tote (10 gallon) - Get from big box store, if can't find this size a little bigger or smaller will still work well. amzn.to/2UECbyM
Pond Liner - amzn.to/2HHv4Py
3/4" Uniseal (2 pack) - amzn.to/2JKqWzc
3/4" Uniseal (5 pack) - amzn.to/2HGAYEN
1-1/4" Hole Saw for 3/4" Uniseal - amzn.to/2HBuIdy
Makita Drill - amzn.to/2r6uLIa
Dewalt Drill bit set - amzn.to/2HH6mPH
Hand Stapler - amzn.to/2vZJtFA
Box Cutter - amzn.to/2r8Jy57
▶️ What To Feed Your Worms - th-cam.com/video/LhofkrHgSDw/w-d-xo.html
Use a soldering iron to make your holes. The hole it makes pushes the melted material to the perimeter. When it hardens, the hole is much stronger and less prone to cracking. I think it takes less time than drilling because theres no need for cleanup ( no extra shredded plastic bits everywhere).
You are an amazing organic gardener. I wish I had met someone like you when I was a young gardener. And, there was no TH-cam back then! The information you are sharing is invaluable for organic gardeners. I had to do it the old fashion way, I collected my table scraps, newspaper, grass and hay cuttings and layered it on my garden in the winter. Covered it up with weed barrier to allow rain and snow to permeate and the next spring when I pulled back the weed barrier the worms made me jump in the air because they were the size of garter snakes! My plants that year were so prolific that the size of my tomatoes actually broke down the trellis!
ok boomer
I am a worm farmer myself and I am very impressed with this table of yours. Low maintenance and easy to work with. Liked and subbed... thx for sharing.
Wow thanks a lot! Welcome to the channel.
It's a tidy little piece of equipment, I like it.
Spent the day looking in to wormeries and you're the first person i've seen put together the structure in my head. Thanks for reassuring me i'm not crazy and for a great breakdown in how to build. Subscribed.
For the first 12 years i had holes for drsinage in my worm beds...no longer. No holes ,control moisture bby adding carbon. Worm castings are much better now. Have been doing this now for about 18 years with no problems. And i only use cardboard sheets cut to fit for covers. Less fuss, less mess and better castings....even under microscope.
Same for my raised gardens! No drainage\lined with poly. I'm in hot central Texas. Where are you?
I put my beds on my channel. They conserve water and work so much better!
@@TheRainHarvester my worm farm was on stainless shelving units in my cellar. Sold all but 1 tub 2 years ago due to being disabled and bedridden. I am in the binghamton area of NYS.
BEFORE GOING TO RESTRAUNT bins I did them the way I was told ..back in late 70's.?with holes in bottom of covered large tubs..I had a drain line to handle all of the leachate...was a lot of work. With my last system I spent less than 30 minutes once a week to turn ,feed and replace tubs to shelving unit.....all 20 of them...never leachate mess...only made worm tea when I wanted it.....
Hot solder tip will melt clean holes. Or heat a nail with a torch on some vice grips will work the same but more work reheating.
Thanks! Another great idea. A solder needle is just about the right size too. Sweet lots of new things to try out next time I drill plastic :)
Sir can u help me how to produce earthworm fast. Thnks
@@NaturesAlwaysRight once you use the soldering needle for melting plastic, it's not good for soldering anymore. If you borrow a soldering iron, buy a new tip before you return it, or that person might not loan tools to you anymore. You could remove the tip and replace it with a brad before you start melting holes. When you're done, then put the original tip back in.
You could use some sand paper to level off the holes.
Maybe a hollow punch/ round hole iron?
This is EXACTLY how I learned to make my own vermicomposting bins .i first learned about this in Hawaii in my master gardeners course .i use this same thing here in New York now..
I would like to suggest to add a landscaping fabric to keep mosquitoes from breeding in your pond area aka worm liquid under your tubs. Great video!
Can you say more about how you should do this?
@@ZZ-qw6el I can say more about this idea. Not necessary. Mosquitoes won't breed in this liquid.
You are so resourceful and kind to take your time to show us how to make this amazing worm bin system. Love what your doing for the world. Thank you my BFAM (brother from another mother). Much love you all.
Thanks so much for the compliment. Thanks for the support!
I have been wanting a worm farm for 2 year. I live part of the year in an Airstream ,so I needed something the RV resort wouldnt complain about . I found a very cute teal blue worm hut for only $45 on amazon, most were close to $100 .Maybe its from being sheltered in place during the quarantine for over a week with only my pet bird.. But I cannot wait for my worm children to arrive.
This is absolute genius. Good job man.
Love the fact you have used it before posted all this you used it. Tied and true
Thank you for noticing. I try really hard to only give out gardening/farming information I know is true or know works from experience.
Only a matter of time before you put this one out! 😍
Yes finally! Hope it helps some people get started with their own worm bins :)
One of my favs so far! Next project for sure. Thanks for sharing
This is a similar approach that I used to create my million-dollar Garden!
@@NaturesAlwaysRight I'm trying to figure out how to do my bins now, and I like your idea the best. I'm just afraid the worms will cook down here outside no matter how much shade they have.
@@NaturesAlwaysRight
You can use a debur tool. Here is decent one.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YPWX3Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Thanks for video.
My worm bin is in a large cattle watering bin. I sure made some newby mistakes. But I'm so glad to have castings to use when planting my tomatoes and peppers. I'd love more videos on worm bins and how to use the castings and tea!
Oh nice that would generate a ton of castings. That's so great you have a large system. I will definitely be putting videos out of how to make tea and use the castings. I'm trying to get better and better at my teas. I recently got a microscope so I could see the organisms in the tea. I'll eventually be sharing that with everyone too :)
Thanks for sharing your build! Just as you mentioned, no man made system is ever perfect! In my opinion, your final product outweighs "the use of plastic". I do wish this video included footage of what the unit looks like with the second levels installed. Although, I can probably watch your other videos for a good shot of this. Enjoy your channel! Looking forward to your next video!
Thanks Toby! Thanks for the suggestion it would have been a good idea to do a close up of everything fully set up. I'll start including that in future build videos. When the first tote is most of the way broken down just add the 2nd tote on top and wait until the bottom tote has only a few worms in it. Thanks for your watching and your support.
I used to thermoform thick sheet plastic and we used a deburring tool I'm certain works for this. So happy I kept some!
Absolutely great video man! I’m definitely making one of these!
On my hydroponic setup in plastic 5 gallon containers, I used a deburring tool to clean up the holes after I drilled them.
Thanks for all you do man. Keep up the good work!
To clean the burrs from a drilled hole you can use an oversized bit to clean the holes both top and bottom.
If you hold a few types of drill bits side by side, when you compare the cutting end, called the chisel, they have various angles/shapes and degree of cutting edge. Take note as you figure which angle works best for different materials.
Also try different diameters for different base materials.
Finally. If going the proper direction, clock-wise cuts to much material. Try going anti clock-wise to sort of ‘scrape’ the burrs away, as opposed to trying to drill them away.
Hope this helps
With your glasses and hat you look like Spy in Mad magazine!
Interesting build. Thanks.
Use a countersink drill bit and a small rechargeable cordless drill. Works great on Kydex so it should be great for bins as well. Thanks for the video!
Love the Chickens in the background
Love your design . This is far from "easiest" :) probably the hardest I have seen but still this is by far the best system I have seen though. I hope your are producing a lot of worms and worm casting/tea.
You may want to put a bracket or hang iron to hold the pvc in place. Over time the weight of the pvc pipe and valve could pull it down out of the uni-seal. Probably not a huge issue, but it could save a min. in the future.
Hey I just found a way to put holes in the plastic worm tubs with zero clean up.
Materials Needed
- pliers
- (2) nails
- torch
- propane
Easy just heat a nail up holding it with the pliers and puncture the plastic tub.
Use a larger nail on some of the holes in only one side of the tub for the worm migration.
This technique has a "hot glue gun" affect on the plastic. Hope this helps and thanks for all the knowledge you share. Peace and God bless.
Love it thanks for sharing. (Handy tip, store your glue upside down it won't dry out)
Thanks Melissa, and thanks for the tip too! I'll try that out.
There are bits used for plexiglas to minimize burrs, forstner bits are also used for larger holes, but you may be able to find a 1/4" forstner bit. An alternative is to buy a good 1/4" hole punch and punch the hole with a plastic or wood backing, leaves a very clean hole. A countersink bit with a handle is better than a knife to deburr. Great video, thanks.
Consider a hex bit or unibit hex drill bit. usually better for a smoother finish than standard bit. Also good for creating variation of size holes if needed or should you consider going larger on the spot.
Thanks for the tips. Those bits work well but I tried those bits and every kind of bit out there (I think) and nothing is able to drill LDPE as smoothly as I like without leaving residue. I haven't tried yet, but poking something hot like a soldering iron through the bin seems like a good option.
one of the best worm systems for home gardeners that I've seen on youtube. Thanks for sharing this!!!
Great job! Can you build on for me 😅 I really enjoy your videos, even moreso I've learned so much!! Thank you, Thank you. THANK YOU‼️
God bless you!!
A bit late to recommend but a spade bit normally drills cleanly into plastic with little to no clean up at all.
Enjoying the video tutorials, and as always, stay safe.
Counter-Intuitive but also a green (high in nitrogen): Coffe Grounds. Against popular belief, normal (i.e. hot brewed) coffe grounds won't have much acidity and worms gonna love it!
If you put a piece of stock, really anything dampening, on the back of what you're drilling and clamp it. You dont get those 'exit wound' kinda holes. I find burning holes still leaves a less severe version or the same issue. Use stock behind your drilling surface for the cleanest result.
My suggestion was to place a piece of wood under where you drill. It will keep the plastic from fraying. But, lukeo85 has the better idea with the hot solder tip. Great idea
Oh that's another interesting technique I'll try! Ya totally agree the solder tip makes the most sense.
Use a Forstner bit to drill your holes to keep from burring holes and make for easier clean up.
Worms love the burlap went
In there worm bin to on the top layer. Cool design
Ooh that's a great idea instead of cardboard on top. I bet that would be fantastic for hot summer days! Thanks for the tip.
I'm from India I saw your videos impressive 👌👌
Thanks friend glad you like!
I also wants to build a farm in India . Help me
Uniseals are fantastic. I use them all over in my aquaponics.
I LOVE them too. I used to use bulkheads, but completely switched after I found the UNIs
The easiest way I have found to drill holes that you don't have to clean up is run the drill backwards. The drill still spins at a very high RPM so you basically melt your way through the plastic. It takes a bit longer but you make up that time by a ending with a clean hole.
This works even better with hole saws. And when working with IBCs you avoid cracking that slightly harder plastic.
And if you are looking for a flexible ruler to mark out curved plastic bins I haven't found something better than an old window blind.
I keep red wrigglers in five gallon buckets. The buckets have no holes and the worms do great. Super easy and I got the bucket for free. Keep leaves on the top so they have a place to go if it gets too much liquid on the bottom.
After you drill the holes in the plastic, use a larger drill bit (like 1/2") on each hole by hand to "de-bur", or get rid of the flashing.
or just run the drill in reverse, it will melt instead of cut
Hey cool design, Try cutting holes from the bottom up instead from inside down. The plastic flashing tends to point in the direction the drill bit is pulling. I see several comments about reversing the drill. Sure wont cut through as easy. Simply flip the bins over and drill from the outside in.
Thank you for this video came over from Hey its A Good Life.
Awesome & ingenious build! Love it! Are you happy with the results thus far? Any modifications/improvements you would make if you built another one?
8:39 you still a cleaner hole by going thru both sides or just wallering the holes out a little by twisting the drill as you drill
When you drill your holes. ITs called reeming, you go back and forth/side to side with the drill bit, it can open the hole a tad bit bigger than you wanted to drill, but by doing so you drilll a smoother hole.
Excellent video. I just subscribed.
Thanks for teaching those of us just starting out. Any Ideas on getting rid of poison Ivy? My sister lives in town, has it on her fence line and is all bfroke out with it.
Looks like an amazing set up I'm going to do it on a smaller scale how do you keep the worms from crawling out the bottom 1/4" holes just keep the food on top ?
Ya they will just keep going up. They won't really fall through
oh wow!! great video!!Beautiful!!😍
I place my binds right inside each other. The bottom one has no holes but contains some peat moss.
For the holes so you don't have to clean up the plastic, use a soldering iron. It will burn a hole and also keeps the edges smooth.
Looks like a great design! My only concern would be the heat mid summer, I keep my worms in a very shaded area, I’m in qld Australia so we don’t get super cold winters.
I keep them in full shade with burlap over the top, no problems :) We only go to 100F here in San Diego though. Keeping the bedding moist is the most important then it stays cool inside the totes.
Great system! God Bless.
Just watched this again! Wondering if you are still using this system now that you're on the homestead?
Do you have a video showing the process of you Stacking the second container that the worms move into?
You put a good deal of thought into this. Perhaps you could share an update with how things are going? Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Still running incredibly well, wouldn't change anything really :)
I have made 4 -5 gallon worm bins and do get the worm tea from each. It appears that my larger worms have disappeared but can see many small baby like worms. Did I do something wrong or is this a natural part of the evolution. Was it something in the products I was composting? Would appreciate your insight from you and your group.
How do you deal with rain, wont it flood the tubs, will they drain quick enough? Great video.
Hey, so I ended up having at least some partial success with installing the uniseal the second time. I ended up sanding the hole a bit and that helped some. It still was a little messed up, but it is holding at least. When you put your second tote on for the worms to start moving up, do you place a piece of cardboard on the bottom, since this will eventually become the bottom layer? It seems though with this in place , the worms may have a hard time climbing to that tote if there is cardboard in the way.
Glad to hear it is working better. Ya the uniseal is a little tricky to get to work for sure. A bulkhead fitting is another option, just a little more expensive. Yes I put a piece of cardboard at the bottom of every new bin, I make sure it is smaller though and doesn't cover all the holes. Just trying to make it easier for the worms, and the cardboard prevents castings from falling out a little better.
Worm Juice Galore😀
You have inspired me to start my own worm farm..my video is just up
Hey could you do an update on worm bin. You are very inspiring. Want to make one. Didn't know if you would change anything? Thank you for your time and effort.
Sure I'll definitely do more worm videos in the future. For this size system I wouldn't change anything and haven't!
At about the 20 minute mark he says 1.5 years later he is very happy with the system.
@8:34
Instead of running a knife around each hole to clean of the rough edge, you could take a large drill piece (1/2 inch) can spin it around in the hole by hand. If you put it in your drill it can accidentally go all the way through :)
Thanks for the instructions!
Well done Steven! Looks great!
Thanks for watching!
Best design I seen yet!!! Very nice. I think I'm going to try this. One question, when and how do you put the second bin on? Thank you for sharing!!!
If the tubs are HDPE you could use a lighter or a torch (at a respectful distance of course) to clean up the holes. HDPE is a thermoplastic (not sure about the other one, might also be thermoplastic).
how long did it take for each bin to be full of worms
This was a very good video
Idk about plastic but w metal I get rid of burrs by just taking a way bigger bit and lightly drilling the top of the hole without penetrating the hole any. It cleans the hole perfectly
How do you keep soldier flys out when you keep your bins outside like this?
I use hardware cloth or window screen.
How do you keep the worms from escaping through the bottom drain holes? Are the holes smaller?
Youmy use an electrical heater that's used in electrical and electrnical tiny attaches using heat. Or you ay still use the driller and try to clean the holes with sand paper sheets after drilling.
Should I be concerned with rain or any sort of water getting in there and messing things up or is that okay for it?
Enjoyed the video! Speak up though! Have some confidence, what your doing is great! Really looking forward to more videos
Thanks for kind words and encouragement! I'll do that!
Hello. How would you keep the worm bins warm all winter if you live in a cold climate like in Idaho?
Nice work! Is there an update video on how much casting were yielded ?
once you have drilled the holes use a 1/2 drill bit in the drill but have it spin backwards and it will clean the bits of plastic out very quickly
Good design.
Have you thought about weed barrier instead of cardboard for the bottom of totes
A step bit reams while it drills, (get a smaller one so you don't oversize the holes) it's great you are using primer with the pvc pipe, but with a non pressure system, not necessary, just use Christy's Wet/Dry cement and eliminate all pipe prep.
Run your drill in reverse. Easy to drill out, shavings come out, not in.
That looks like a great system! TFS 😊
Thanks glad you liked it!
If you don't want to drill holes and have scraps, you can heat a bolt up and melt a very clean hole
Nice I like that idea a lot. I think heat is probably the best option now too.
I use coolers they work well for me
Great job. Thanks for sharing. Questions on where you placed the air vent holes on the sides and placing the next tote on top. When you add another tote on top, does the tote on top cover those air vents? And does the weight of the top tote when filled crush the worm castings and worms?
You're welcome. When you add the second tote the air vents don't flow as well but it doesn't matter because everything is fully broken down. I don't have any problems with the castings going anaerobic. The weight on top does not kill the worms, it does compress the castings a little bit but it doesn't inhibit the worms ability to move up to the next tote.
@@NaturesAlwaysRight Thank you. I was curious about this too.
What do you do with them in the winter?
I absolutely loved this video and your design!!! Awesome! Thanks for sharing
No problem glad it was helpful!
@Natures always right use a couter sink bit and hit each hole just touching the plastic .it will clean it up in a split second
Soldering iron can be used to make holes you don't have to clean...little slower though.
how many worms do you have and how long does it take until harvest time for the castings?
Have been waiting for thiissss!!!
Thank you for this video!
Got some questions as always , hehe
1. How many worms do i need per bin?
2. What exactly worm tea is made of?
I mean, is it the extract of the soil and castings or is it the extract from composting process?
3. If i only have worms and soil and feed them with veggies, without those conpost layers, can i still call it worm tea? Is it as powerful?
4. Last question, how often do i water my worm bin?
Thank you very much.. i'm very confused about these 4 questions and i have been wondering for months..
Once again thanks for the video, its awesome as always!
Love that "Let's Do This" buckets!!
*)do share some tips of using worm tea and it's supernatural effects please.. just so that we subscribers may know.. heheh
Thanks!!
Sweet you are welcome :)
1. Depends, more worms faster the colony builds. I'd say 1lb of worms per 10gallon or 40L bin is more than enough to get started. But I'm sure someone online has figured out the best practice on that.
2. Worm tea is an aerated tea meant to increase the microrganisms found in the worm castings. It is sprayed or watered in on plants. It can be made from compost or castings I'll be doing episodes on it in the future.
3. The liquid (leechate) that drains out from adding water to your bins is beneficial it has nutrient and microbes but nothing compared to what an aerated tea has. You should dilute the leechate 10 to 1 and add to water in your garden.
4. Keep your worm bin in the shade and covered and you will rarely water it, only in the summer is it necessary but it will depend on climate so you just need to check on the worms. It should be wet but not soggy and sloppy wet. They can handle a pretty wide range of moisture though and be fine. For most of the year the only moisture I add is whenever I add on a new tote and harvest teh castings. The biggest danger is letting the bins dry out or get too hot so keep it covered in summer. Under a tree is a good spot :)
Nature's Always Right
Woww thanks for the ultimate and complete answer!
Actually, after your first video where i saw you had worm bins, i was curious about worm bins and had already started my own bin ! XD
Thank you for the answer again!!
Will be waiting for that compost & castings video!
You're welcome! Good luck with your bin.
THANKS!!! ☻
Great job. Wondering do you have to drill 1/2 inch air holes at top of sides. Saw a video that did that.
1/2 inch is way too big, bugs will go inside. I use 1/8in for the side air holes.
I have just thrown compost dirt then and food scraps in a half wine barrel crazy amount of worms Black Soil Gold
Sorry but a bit confusing..at beginning of film it looks like you're going to stack two totes but when you're finally filling them with compostable material they look like singles???? Great videos and thanks for going out of the way to do these videos
Did you ever have any problem with your drain clogging up or the valve clogging up?
Afraid I don't know how to drill a clean hole in plastic, however, there's an easier way for cleaning those drilled hoies, usinng a dubble size drill bit, and while the drill is working, just touch the hole's surface slightly with the bit's edge and so ,very easily remove what needs to be removed without damaging the hole and without wasting too much effort.
Hope that's a useful advice.
I like to advance instructional videos to near the end to see how the project works before I spend the time to watch the building details
why did you put a second layer of plywood under the top one (the top one gets the pond liner stapled onto it)?
Just to give it more support. I was worried about the small cracks pinching the lineer
@@NaturesAlwaysRight okay, thanks man. im doing knf/jadam stuff this year too cuz of your videos. look forward to seeing what happens in Tennessee!
@@Samb1600 Love that!
Are those the planes at Lindbergh Field I hear?