I came across this tip on a classic car forum, use Hamerite on the bottom of your car. I tried this years ago, Hamerite black high gloss S060, on the bottom, leaf springs, etc, and it looks still great. No rust and when it is dirty, you can wipe it just off.
anti-seize..."you're just helping the next guy"....yes, PLEASE!!! As someone that has spent an entire day trying to remove leaf springs that were corroded in place...I beg you all to pay this forward!
Looks just like my 66 Ranchero.... Thanks. I hope I can get new springs for the little guy. Are the slapper bars that replace the bottom plate for the u bolts worth it? Trying to stop the wheel hop.
Corroseal, por15, or Eastwood rust preventer for painting springs and they wont rust. I eliminated the rubber wrap and went metal to metal, and did urethane bushings. Thumps firmly over tiny bumps.
I checked in with RAS to see if their spring suspension mod would fit, unfortunately the 1 1/2" rear eyelets are too small for their application. Was hoping to stiffen the suspension and maybe get better stabilization.
We are talking Fuel Injection. We chatted with Holley before the Corona hit. We're missing a solenoid, and a drive shaft. The folks at the Driveshaft Shop are on board but with everything on lock-down, we are kinda stuck.
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media yeah that kinda sucks. Looking good. I started collecting parts for my 2 door falcon. Going all wheel drive with Chevrolet ls power. Should be a fun build. I’d like to film it for TH-cam. I need to try to get back over that way but work is in limbo too.
I've used RPM Magic on bare metal restored springs and they lasted around 8 years before I need to remove a little surface rust, and apply more. Also I've painted my last set of springs with VHT Cast Iron color engine paint and they look almost identical to factory bare steel. Great for restorers.
I have a question that has to do with the suspension on my 1998 f150. It is a short box 2wd and I am looking lower it. I have seen some options out there for notch frame and or leaf hangers for the rear and spring and spindles for the front. I wanted to know if you could share you opinion on it. What I am trying to do is not only lower it 6 inch rear and 3 front but this is becoming a big block truck. currently it is a V6 truck and it is going 460 with a C6 auto. Thank you for your time.
I wasn't understanding the way this spring was designed until 8:44. Ahhhhhh. That's what's going on. I wonder if I can incorporate this into my '71 F100 springs. Side note: I'm no chemist but, supposedly you aren't to use petroleum products on rubber due to the petroleum breaking down the rubber. First, it makes the rubber swell then, degrades it. You should use a silicone or a marine grade lube instead.
Somebody gave us a Marine a while back for working on a F100...ate all the dang crayons and took off for the woods. Contact me via the email in the description.
I always WANT another project...the question is can I DO another project. LOL I hope you get to feeling better William. I have knee problems too so I get it.
I came across this tip on a classic car forum, use Hamerite on the bottom of your car. I tried this years ago, Hamerite black high gloss S060, on the bottom, leaf springs, etc, and it looks still great. No rust and when it is dirty, you can wipe it just off.
Nice tip!
I am doing rear springs for MGB GT This really helps.
anti-seize..."you're just helping the next guy"....yes, PLEASE!!! As someone that has spent an entire day trying to remove leaf springs that were corroded in place...I beg you all to pay this forward!
Great job again. Stay Safe!👍🇺🇸😃
Looks just like my 66 Ranchero.... Thanks. I hope I can get new springs for the little guy. Are the slapper bars that replace the bottom plate for the u bolts worth it? Trying to stop the wheel hop.
Awesome infos, like always! Greetings from Poland 🇵🇱✌️
Howdy from Aiken, South Carolina!
I have a 63 Fairlane I bought last October. The tires are getting shredded by the fenders. Wondering what size rim and tire you're using on yours.
Corroseal, por15, or Eastwood rust preventer for painting springs and they wont rust.
I eliminated the rubber wrap and went metal to metal, and did urethane bushings.
Thumps firmly over tiny bumps.
I checked in with RAS to see if their spring suspension mod would fit, unfortunately the 1 1/2" rear eyelets are too small for their application. Was hoping to stiffen the suspension and maybe get better stabilization.
What all do you have left for the trans install? Could turn that wagon into a daily driver especially after some fuel injection!
We are talking Fuel Injection. We chatted with Holley before the Corona hit. We're missing a solenoid, and a drive shaft. The folks at the Driveshaft Shop are on board but with everything on lock-down, we are kinda stuck.
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media yeah that kinda sucks. Looking good. I started collecting parts for my 2 door falcon. Going all wheel drive with Chevrolet ls power. Should be a fun build. I’d like to film it for TH-cam. I need to try to get back over that way but work is in limbo too.
I've used RPM Magic on bare metal restored springs and they lasted around 8 years before I need to remove a little surface rust, and apply more. Also I've painted my last set of springs with VHT Cast Iron color engine paint and they look almost identical to factory bare steel. Great for restorers.
Yeah...I think I should retorque my springs pads. I never looked at them again after the initial install.
Ours were floppy...and floppy is only good on dogs and bad pool dives.
Hi great info u say it's 35 to 50 lbs for the u bolts to axle do you know the torque for the rear shackles on a 70 torino thk u.
How do you like those viking shocks? decent adjustability?
Loveum. Kinda like a fridge with adjustable shelves, I found a spot I liked and stopped. 😆
I have a question that has to do with the suspension on my 1998 f150. It is a short box 2wd and I am looking lower it. I have seen some options out there for notch frame and or leaf hangers for the rear and spring and spindles for the front. I wanted to know if you could share you opinion on it. What I am trying to do is not only lower it 6 inch rear and 3 front but this is becoming a big block truck. currently it is a V6 truck and it is going 460 with a C6 auto. Thank you for your time.
I really don't have any experience with the later trucks. If it were an I-Beam truck I could send you in a direction. Sorry I can't be of more help.
@@AutoRestoMod thank you so much
Have you ever seen Ford use a aftermarket transmission cooler on an fmx large case transmission by the way which is plumbed through the engine block
I have not.
I wasn't understanding the way this spring was designed until 8:44. Ahhhhhh. That's what's going on. I wonder if I can incorporate this into my '71 F100 springs.
Side note: I'm no chemist but, supposedly you aren't to use petroleum products on rubber due to the petroleum breaking down the rubber. First, it makes the rubber swell then, degrades it. You should use a silicone or a marine grade lube instead.
My 65 Sport Coupe needs new springs bad.
Auto Krafters is open!
Want to work on a 65 mustang for a Sailor?
Somebody gave us a Marine a while back for working on a F100...ate all the dang crayons and took off for the woods. Contact me via the email in the description.
@@AutoRestoMod gold.
You wanna another project? My health isn't up to doing so far, as I managed to tear a knee joint meniscus, so my truck is just sitting....
I always WANT another project...the question is can I DO another project. LOL I hope you get to feeling better William. I have knee problems too so I get it.