Stock GM Lifters After 3 Months Run-in
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- This is the 3rd set of lifters I installed in this engine since recently restoring the truck. The first set was Comp Cams LS Retrofit series and they were very noisy. The 2nd set was Comp Cams new Evolution series and they were only a little less noisy. I have other videos going back 2 years ago, documenting the results of the Comp Cams lifters I tried in this engine. Now I have a set of stock GM lifters in the engine that I installed August 2023. They are not dead quiet but compared to the Comp Cams lifters they are satisfactory.
Removed evolution lifters from my hemi 5.7 ,extremely noisy. Put oem ,hellcat lifters in. 4,000 miles now and perfectly quite. I will never use comp lifters again. This is 3rd time having issues with their products.
What preload are you running on those lifters?
About .06"
@@onemoremisfit I just put in a set of BTR Delphi ls7 lifters (L9H 6.2l) and on stock pushrods they are noisy on a cold engine, quiet once at temp. Stock pushrods now sit at 0.15 preload (felpro head gasket as well) which is too long. Have some 7.325 pushrods on the way which will give me 0.075 preload. Hoping that quiets them up on a cold start.
@@wally7856 Changing push rod length made no improvement for me. I tried 3 different lengths, and I also went to a length that was a little too long and shimmed it back by putting a .03" thick shim under the rocker pedestal, after which the engine would run normally, which proved I had the longest possible length the lifters would tolerate. If you are saying you have .15" preload, that is probably too long because I have found there is about a .12" range that the lifter plungers operate within. But if the push rods are little too long you will know it because the engine might start but will not run smooth at all. As long as the pushrod length falls within that .12" then range the exact length is irrelevant. If you have .15" preload and the engine still runs smooth then maybe the BTR lifters have longer range and you probably have the max length that they will still run with.
You can try putting a shim under the rocker pedestal to change effective length without buying new pushrods. You have to make the shim yourself. Get a strip of .03" thick aluminum about 1" wide x about 16" long (I can't remember the exact dimensions), drill the holes and cut 2 notches with a hacksaw blade and small file. Putting the .03" shim in makes the effective length .03" shorter. Since the push rod lengths tend to come in .05" increments, the .03" shim will split the difference between two lengths.
So right now I have a set of 7.35" pushrods in the engine with no shim, stock GM gasket, heads have been milled a little for a valve job, and they fall within the operating range and that's that. If the lifters are noisy it's because they are just not made right. Changing the push rod length slightly won't make them run different, at least not on my engine, and I know that from actually trying it. The lifters are supposed to work anywhere in that range, that's why they make the rocker mounts fixed with no adjustment. The exact push rod length should not matter.
Changing the oil didn't matter for me either, I have tried 4 different types of oil now: Straight 30w mineral base, 0w-40 full synthetic, 10w-30 semi synthetic, and now 5w-30 full synthetic. All of them run the same. The issue is the lifters themselves, and for some reason it is hard to find good lifters these days.
Personally I wish I had lifters that are a little noisy when cold and quiet when hot. I could live with that. Mine are quiet when cold and get noisier when hot.
@@onemoremisfit Thanks for your insight. My new 7.325" pushrods are already enroute so I'll probably go that way over the shims for now but will remember that for future use. The new pushrods should be stiffer then stock anyways. I think the Delphi lifters have about .2" of travel but I'll feel better getting the preload somewhere closer to the middle of the travel. I chose 0.075 instead of 0.1" as I live up north where temps can reach -40F. The thermal expansion difference between operating temp and -40F over 7.4" of aluminum is about 0.020" so I gave myself a little bit of room there for cold starts. Thanks again for sharing your experience.
@@wally7856 One more thing: I had head gasket leakage one time, the leak was at the top of the head at one of the coolant passages, and this was leaking coolant into the engine oil. To fix it I used Permatex spray copper sealer, this stuff is great, I have been using it for 40 years, never fails. The one time I put the gasket in dry I got burned. Never again. One thing you have to watch for, there are bad cans of it going around lately that spray gloppy. It should spray fine like spray paint, if it comes out like lumpy glue, throw it away and get another can. This happened to me. I got another can and it was fine. Put 2 nice even coats on and let it cure for a whole day. Once it is cured you can handle the gasket without smudging it, and the material keeps its tackiness indefinitely.
Then there is one more thing, I put extra torque on the top row of small bolts. I use new GM TTY bolts every time and I do not reused them. The GM bolts all have a dab of locking compound on the threads. Do not put extra torque on the larger bolts, torque those by the book. But the small bolts on the top row need more torque. The book says 22 ft/lbs, this is not enough. I torque them first to 22, then again to 30 ft/lbs. Those bolts can take a lot more torque than that and with an iron block so can the threads. With an aluminum block you need to be more careful, but 22 ft/lbs aint enough, especially when there is compound on the bolt threads dragging it down and giving a false reading on the torque wrench. I would at least go 2 steps out to 25 ft/lbs on those smaller bolts to ensure a tight seal.